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Comments
If you want, as I do, to minimize the wear on the engine you can either change the oil more frequently or use Mobil1 -- if you go to Sams or Costco the full synthetic oil is not THAT expensive and the dealer seems to be "happy" to use your oil for the oil (and filter, always) change.
New chip technology gets rid of one "bone of contention" -- the chastity belt being broken.
It used to be that chips required a replacement of the engine managment chip and this required a breaking of the seal that houses the place where the chip lives. Some dealers aren't chip friendly. I know of no reliable statistic -- my gut says many dealers, however, ARE chip friendly.
New direct port upgrades remove any visible evidence that the factory engine managment program has been altered to increase torque and HP (www.goapr.com, and there are others, too).
The general rule is that if some part breaks that is a warranty part and it can be demonstrated that this part failed because of something you did, you will pay for the part.
This DOES happen, but in scouring the posts over at Audiworld.com, the numbers are so rare I cannot recall one (again this is not to suggest that there aren't any).
I chipped a 1.8T engine with an MTM stage one chip and my dealer did the chipping. The results were incredible -- HP was boosted to 195 and torque to about 240 ft pounds. I went from a 4 cylinder to a 6 with virtually no penalty save for a touch of turbo lag that was missing in the tamer version of the engine.
If you feel like this would be for you, contact the chip manufacturer for the performance gains you should realize.
The effects are not subtle and can be turned on and off with the cruise control or other switch that is already in your car -- therefore it can be made to be visually undetectable.
Add new springs and sway bar, plus zero or plus one tires and wheels a new exhaust system plus the chip and you will transform your car -- all for a few thousand. The chip is usally $500 - $700 and will be a dramatic change. Most would consider it an improvement.
Ask questions -- for example, does this chip get rid of the rev limiter? If the answer is "it can" -- you tell them you want to keep the rev limiter in place, because you're human. Find out if there are octane programs 91, 93 or higher octane programs can do good or not so good things depending on many variables.
I like the mildest boost possible, because I am not willing to cough up the extra thousand to 2 thousand for the exhaust system changes and I don't want to put the "up" turbos on either.
Even though we have 93 octane fuel readily available here in Cincinnati, a 91 octane program provides very noticable boost in both HP and torque and I tell myself at less possible issue for the engine to actually handle.
Drive it like YOU live. . .
Is he... er.. telling a stretcher there, to help sell the car? Or is it true?
In short, how strongly does the Passat need 91 octane?
Thanks.
I choose the later. Why buy a German car if you're not going to DRIVE it.
This applies to localities at or near sea level. Higher elevations require less octane I believe.
-Craig
IMHO, just go with what the manufacturer recommends, why dice around with it? The difference in $ between premium and regular nominally comes to merely ~$1 a day - not worth it in my mind.
Ja, you can use lower octane mit der motor and zere will be no harm. But vhy? Bote your milage and der performance will suffer. It is a valse (false) economy to use der lower power petrol. Ze cars, vere designed for 91+ octane.
And my only English speaking service manager says it costs more (how he know for certain is up for debate) to use "regular" because the fuel consumption is much higher and the performance is lower.
I have heard, too, that the fuel injectors stay cleaner with the high zoot juice that these engines were from the get go designed to use.
I am trying to decide between getting a 2000 Honda V6 Ex Accord (Coupe) 4-speed auto with 23000 on it for $15500, or Volkswagon Passat 2002 1.8T GLS 5- speed manual with 16581 on it for $16500, or a 2003 Subaru Legacy Special Addition Package 5-speed manual with 9600 miles for $15900??
I know these may be strange cars to compare, but this is what I am looking at. I like the Passat for it's individuality and somewhat sportiness, I like the Accord for it's reliability and looks, and I like the Subie for the fact that I don't see one every mile on the roads where I live. All wheel drive could come in handy where I live, but I would not want to sacrifice too much gas mileage to have it.
I am concerned about the reliability of both the VW and the Subie. I have heard that VW's are great cars, but they do not come close to the reliability of Japanese makers and I don't like having to use premium fuel. Subie's I know nothing about. Are their interiors quiet? Do they have good gas mileage? IS THEIR RELIABILITY GREAT, GOOD, FAIR, OR BAD? I have owned and enjoyed Honda's in the past, but in a way I would like to have something different. Any general or specific comments on these makes or particular models would be appreciated.
P.S. I guess if I wanted to I could get a brand new Civic Ex for the amount I am looking to spend?
Any ideas?
P.S.S. OH, AND PLEASE COMMENT ABOUT RESALE VALUE FOR THESE MODELS IF YOU CAN.
Thanks!!
Gasohol is like hamburger helper. When added to hamburger the helped concoction will "go further," that is true -- but there is no increase in the amount of meat.
Similarly, when alcohol is added to gasoline the amount of fluid is increased, so in a gallon of the stuff you would have 90% gas and 10% alcohol.
Alcohol has less energy in it than gasoline -- and I am certain that there are hundreds of web sites that can give you the BTU's, algorithms and analyses you may desire. Gasohol that is at 89 or 91 or whatever octane should (technically and legally) pass the octane test -- no problem there.
However the false economy thing may come into play here just as it does if you run one of these engines designed to use 91+ octane with lesser octane.
In other words, the engine managment system detects pre-detonation (ping) and scales back the spark plug's firing timing (so called retarded spark). The mixture in the cylinder thusly managed produces less energy and we humans as part of the overall system counteract this retardation due to the lower engergy of this lower octane fuel by using more gas to compensate for the power loss.
Likewise when the gas has appropriate octane but contains alcohol we (as part of this human, machine and computer "system") tend to compensate for the reduced energy (per fluid volume) and we use more gas.
The term false economy has been batted around this chat room, my dealer salesreps, my dealer service techs, my dealer service manager and a rep from VW/Audi of America who floats between dealerships here in Ohio.
Therefore, the generic advice with these managed engines that were, in fact, designed to be used with high octane is "use pure gasoline -- and use Premium." Your engine will perform better, you milage will be optimized and you will not be forever asking the question "I wonder how it would perform with 'high-test'."
Note that these turbo charged engines -- especially -- are available to be chipped by a variety of aftermarket tuners. One that is particularly well known is APR -- they offer programs specifically designed to permit, in effect, the spark to be advanced fully to take advantage of 91, 93 or even the really pure high octane racing gasolines.
As far as I can tell, the VW engine management system will determine the optimum spark advance up to the point immediately before PING -- and then ever so slightly (and dynamically) retard the spark to keep the firing at full power. The system can adjust to 89, 91 and higher octanes and will imrpove performance accordingly.
Stay away from low test alcohol infused gas and you and your engine will be happy.
Your own observation that you could get a brand new Civic EX says it all -- to me at least.
But since you speak in a language that TO ME is foreign, I will go down another path hopefully to stir up at least an "internal argument -- with yourslef."
The foreign language I am referring to is your mention of the price you would pay for the cars -- I am forced to assume that you are either paying cash 100% up front or that you have the ability to acquire these cars at 0% interest or another artificially low interest rate. I am also assuming that you have and are not considering leasing a car (new or used) and I also assume that you are a homeowner or own real estate of some kind.
Why is this (talk of car prices) a kind of foreign language? Well first of all, theoretically if you could acquire and use a car that you liked for $500 per month and the choices included cars that had sticker prices from $15,000 to $45,000 which one would you acquire (generally speaking)?
Hopefully you would acquire the most expensive car that met your needs/wants becuase it, theoretically, should be a higher value than one that cost less. In other words if you could pay $500 per month for a $15,000 or a $30,000 car which one would you be most likely to imagine yourself doing? Most people would go with the $30,000 car.
Looking for a car for cash is different than looking for a car for time payments (rent or own) -- I hope you would agree, so that issue is one that I suggest you analyze.
And buying a car if you do NOT OWN real estate is at the very least backwards and at the most kind of goofy. Putting money into an appreciating asset over time, does make sense (most of us buy cars and rent appartments -- hardly a method that will accumulate assets).
Cars depreciate, generally speaking -- the list you gave us certainly is not likely to appreciate.
The only reason to buy one of these NOW is if there is "free money" involved -- and I grant you that at this point of inflection in our crazy economy this may very well be an option. If so, I would still buy new for many reasons, but one is most compelling -- you will have the greater possibility of a trouble free experience.
Hope this perspective doesn't upset you.
Now based on what I can sort of calculate, here is what I would do based on my biases and your statements in the prior post: I would look into leasing a 2004 VW Passat 1.8T 4Motion for 39 months.
I must tell you that your deductions were rather acute, but the simple truth is that I am in a position where I need a new vehicle and have no credit, not bad credit, and yes I do rent an apartment, but that is because I was unable to get a loan in the current position I am in. I do have enough saved to pay cash for a car and that is what I planned on. I really thought that at least one or two of the cars on my list would be good choices. I had someone tell me on another post that Subaru's are known for their reliability and I already know Honda's history. I really thought my chances of getting a good vehicle were excellent in consideration that the Subie I am looking at is a 2003 and only has 9000 miles on it and the Honda only has 23000 on it, which I had heard is like having a 100 miles on a domestic car.
I also thought I would be avoiding the harsh depreciation that takes place from driving your new car off the lot, which is exactly what would happen if I bought a new Civic opposed to one of these others. I just thought that getting something like the Legacy 2003 with only 9000 miles on it for around $15000 is a much much better deal than getting a 2003 Civic Ex new?! Please tell me if this does not make sense?? I would think that the Legacy is much more of a premium car than a civic. I hope this clears things up on what I am thinking and I hope someone can still give advice on, or experience with the cars I have listed in my prior posting.
Thank you.
if you have NO credit, not bad credit, you will make no inroads into correcting that by buying a car in cash. Moreover, even if you have to pay up to 2.9% interest and put some money down -- or if you can find a friendly lease (like VW credit) that may require a small downpayment (and that is hard for me to say since I am generally opposed to paying money down for a leased car) -- well, you will begin to establish a credit history.
Paying an historically low interest rate for either financing the bulk of or leasing a car is a relatively small price to pay to establish your credit history.
Another way to look at this -- if you put 100% down on a car (new or used) you would tie up that money. Audi has a 0% loan program on used Audis now for example. And, if you put money into a total stock market mutual fund, based on what the economy appears it will be doing soon -- you should expect high single digit or low double digit returns.
Net net -- if you have $15,000 in cash use a little bit of it in the pursuit of establishing credit while acquiring the transportation you need (and want). Keep some free cash for rainy days and either invest the remainder in stocks, mutual funds or some other vehicle that will appreciate (likely, that is) higher than the dismal money market we are "enjoying" right now.
There is no benefit to you in plunking down 100% on your car, new, used, purchased or leased.
If I want a used car, I don't think I would be able to get ANY kind of loan at 2.9% and I don't know if I could get a loan like that for even a new car, having 0 credit????
I can get credit started in other ways that would not require me to pay any interest, such as credit card bills that are paid off by their due dates?.
I don't know for sure, but it seems unlikely that anyone would give me a loan at a low interest rate like 2.9% with 0 credit and if they did I would still be paying interest on that loan just so I could establish credit, which, if I am not mistaken I can do with credit cards without having to pay an interest rate. So even if I were to get a loan, which I doubt, at 2.9 percent, I would have to make at least that percentage with my money in mutual funds, or in a money market index and I don't think that making over 2.9% would be a given.
Maybe I am not getting it and you are right? I don't know, but going from a Subie,Honda, ... to a Audi does not sound like a less expensive route and would it make sense that Audi would give me, with no credit, a 0% loan? Do you not think that an Audi would also be quite a bit more expensive to insure??
I guess I feel like:
1- I could not get a loan at the interest rate you mentioned with no credit.
2- If I did get a loan at with any interest rate, and invested the rest of the money, I would have to get an interest rate equal to or greater than the interest rate I would get for my loan and having no credit will probably make that interest rate high.
3- If I were to go with an Audi, I would think that maintenance, repairs, and insurance would be much more expensive than any of the other cars I had mentioned and that would not make sense.
I appreciate your help and let me know if I am wrong, oh and if anyone has any comments on what I originally asked about the cars I was looking at, please chime in.
Thank you everyone.
veneerz.com
wooddashexperts.com
wooddashfactory.com
1. Is it better to hire a professional installer, or can it be done successfully by an amateur?
2. Any recommendations regarding trim products? Right now my first choice is Veneerz' "Newport Burl Wood" (to see it, click on "Styles"). Do you think this shade would look sharp with a black interior?
Thank you.
Again, one of the many reasons I chose not to get a GLX.
Other reasons:
Climatronic (The iDrive/COMAND of VW)
The V6 oil guzzler requirement
Would have been nice to be able to get some of the other goodies that can't be had in a GLS (like power seat, dimming rear view, rain sensing wipers, folding mirrors, etc.) but VW thinks that enthusiast 1.8T owners don't deserve them.
Want to spruce up your car? Lower it an inch, get a new exhaust, and chip it. You won't have the time to look at the wood or any other interior bits.
-Craig
I have not shopped from your perspective and apparently thus far you have not tested the credit waters -- it is "free" to do so as far as I know.
I cannot imagine that you can borrow money on a credit card and pay the bill off in full and somehow pay to interest and have that benefit your score.
Borrowing money and proving you didn't need to borrow it usually doesn't have the outcome of establishing your credit.
Talk with a banker -- not a friend -- or perhaps a financial advisor or CPA about this. Or research this topic on the WWW.
In your shoes, I would lease something like a brand new Jetta, Passat or Civic or Accord for equal to or less than 39 months. Or I would buy a new "demo" year end closeout car with plenty of warranty and "never been titled" -- so that it is 100% yours.
That's just me. You seem to have an understanding of your situation and needs. I am not critical of your approach and if it is what you want to do and it works, I say go for it.
I would keep as much of my money as possible, perhaps putting down, if you must, 25%. But again that is just my scenario -- one time, and one time only I paid cash for an Audi 5000CS turbo quattro (1987) -- I have no idea what benefit I got from that other than no payments for a couple of years.
Cars are tools, fun tools, I'll admit -- but like a bic pen or someother tool (only way more expensive) they have a limited life span and a big time neg (they depreciate faster than a speeding bullet). If I planned to keep a car "forever" maybe I would consider purchasing it -- maybe. But I like having young cars in warranty.
I wish you great luck and hope you join the ranks of German car owners soon!
My car has only about 20,500 miles so this problem is still under warranty and will be repaired at no cost to me, I hope. Unfortunately, the earliest VW dealer can fix this is a month from now, however, earlier appointments are available if I want a paid scheduled 20K miles service!
When I called VW, they said they can't do anything to expedite the problem resolution. I explained them how the problems were handled in my RX300 and the service rep said that the Lexus service standards may be different because they sell vehicles for $50,000. (not true, the RX300 cost me 38,000)
Nevertheless, they took my complaint (service call # 30409854) but when I asked what they will do about it, the answer came out to mean "absolutely nothing"!
I don't think Toyota or Honda would have acted in much different way but Toyotas or Hondas are less likely to have such problems. (or any problem)
I almost bought Touarag, glad I didn't actually BUY. I considered GLX 4Motion a near luxury vehicle but in future, either I will buy a cheaper VW and expect cheap reliability and service or will buy other established brand name luxury (e.g. Lexus) vehicle where the dealer would have offered to pick up the vehicle for a potential warranty repair.
I must say, I scheduled a warranty appointment for my 2003 GLS wagon (1.8T auto). The ABS lights are on constantly, and the cruise control has stopped working. Anyway, they are squeezing me in Thursday, but they did verify that I'd had the 10,000 mile service done (car has 13K miles now). If I had done the service elsewhere or done it myself, I wonder if they would have pushed me off. Hmmm.... Just wondering.
Has anyone else experienced this kind of treatment at VW service?
As for:
" don't think Toyota or Honda would have acted in much different way but Toyotas or Hondas are less likely to have such problems. (or any problem)"
A glance at the Toyota/Honda et al boards will indicate that Camry's and Accord's do not "walk on water" and do have their fair share of issues ...
LOL with your issue and may they be resolved speedily.
I am, for many reasons, fond of many of the VW products and actually have owned three of them with nuttin' but goodnes (a Jetta a Beetle and a Quantum sedan). The dealership for these vehicles is no longer in biz and if they were would be too far away for convenience. I am a frequent VW looker and a frequent Audi buyer. I really like the Passat and Touareg and anticipate liking the new RS32 VW/Golf and the Phaeton. The service policy on the Phaeton has caught my attention since it is so Audi like -- but the two VW dealers that are nearby are often dissed by those who actually currently own VW's. What to do? Well, since our two 2003 Audis are currently "only" 10 months old, I guess I keep educating myself and hoping that the dealer body improves over the next 18 months, becuase during the last 6 months or so of my leases, I generally start the buy cycle (and ordering cycle) in earnest.
Our friend VWGUILD may be one of a kind and more's the pity if that is so.
I genuinely believe that VW's products can march upmarket -- indeed I think, just like Audi's issues, the public will soon forget -- but if the dealer body doesn't start acting like a group that can represent Phaetons and Touaregs, I would think this honeymoon period will be short and the recovery time long. By the time the 2006 cars are starting to gather some market buzz, VW needs to have its house in order.
Thank goodness we have two decent Audi dealers here in Cincinnati. I keep hoping to read something good about a Cincinnati VW dealer -- thus far nothing.
My OPINION is that Northland VW in Norwood is our best and brightest dealership -- but they are located in an area that while not bad is probably not Pheaton turf.
Any Northland VW drivers care to comment?
I called couple of other VW dealers and they all are "booked" up for the warranty repair. I'm concerned that VW culture don't know how to schedule and prioritize repair of a safety issue which is under warranty. One dealer suggested me to use hand signals while I await over four weeks for the appointment. Another dealer suggested me to leave the car with them for about two weeks (TWO WEEKS!) during which they may be able to find an open slot due to some cancellation etc.. (And I thought doctors appointment the only appontments which was difficult to get)
And this is the second issue with the PASSAT GLX v6 4M and forth time I'll have to play the leave-the-car-pick-up-the-car game. No matter how much I like a VW product, I'm not prepared to deal with such issues. I'm going back to reliable Japanees products which are now "made-in-USA".
Praj: if you want your car looked at sooner maybe have them change your oil and that will give them some incentive to bring you in sooner.
Using hand signals is too funny. I would go straight to the Service Manager with that comment.
Of course, I would recommend speaking with a CPA or some other financial officer to help you in this regard, just posted above as advice.
I wanted him to at least educate himself and it seems he is trying and with your professional comments added to my anecdotal comments, he should be well on his way!
Then, ask our friend VWGUILD what, if any, cap cost reduction is available and what the money factors are so you can calculate your lease payment.
Or pay cash, with a discount, I presume.
The leases on 04's should be pretty attractive right now.
Brian
prajapati, thank you for your help also, and I would like to add that these types of complaints are what worry me about VW. I had heard that their reliability is not as good as it could be. It seems to me that in reading reviews about VW's in general you find that experts can not say enough about their handling and German engineering, but they can not brag about their problematic ways. I really would like a Passat, but I am really getting the impression that VW's are great cars as long as you have the time and the money to have them worked on when needed. It reminds me of old Harley Davidsons.
Well, I know that Honda and Toyota boards have their problems too, but there really seems to be more issues with VW's. I don't want a vehicle that is sold on Pretentiousness. Well, I know it is not a BMW, but I do know that some act as if VW's are german engineering and how could they be compared to Japanese models at all. I guess they can be compared because they spend so much time in fix it shops with electrical problems and ...
I have never owned one so it is rather unfare of me to judge so harshly, but I am just going by word of mouth on VW's. I would love to have a Passat, BUT I DON'T WANT TO BE A GAMBLING MAN.
Prajapati, I know you spoke well of Honda and Toyota, but do you or anyone else here have any opinions on the Subaru Legacy, please be helpful and objective instead of just defending VW? I am still thinking about the Passat and others, but I am leaning toward the Subaru due to the fact that I think I have found a great deal on one:
"2003 Subaru Legacy AWD, Special Eddition Package, Silver, factory options include splash gurds, rear differential protector, air filtration system, auto-dimming mirror/compass, upgraded speakers with tweeter kit and Moon Roof, non-smoker owned and driven, Purchased Feb 2003, like new, list price $21,543 purchased for $20,888 - asking $15,900"
I've had the typical problems with the coils, and the recent recall for the wheel well reinforcement, however my dealer has been very accommodating, replacing all the coils, even when they were not yet bad, getting me timely appointments, and providing a loaner. These have been the only problems I've had, and they were more of an annoyance than a serious problem.
I do some of the simple routine maintainance myself, such as changing cabin air filters, and my oil changes are with Indy Lube, using Mobil 1, so I have not been to the dealer for routine maintainance.
Where do you get your SynPower 5w-40 in bulk for 1.80 a quart?
I've been using Mobil 1 5w-30 from Sam's Club, six for $23, but I'd rather use the 5w-40. Is the SynPower a true sythetic, or a blend?
I normally get 32-33mpg on my commute going 80 on the highway, and driving normally on the streets. Cruising with a 1.8T, even at 80, sips gas, as the turbo isn't giving much boost. I've notice that beyond 80 or so, mpg drops off since the car is then fighting off more air friction than an unboosted 1.8 can handle - the turbo is constantly giving boost to maintain speed.
In normal traffic (lights, stop & go, etc.) I get between 22mpg and 28mpg, depending on the severity. The only time I go below that is with the AC on.
I have an '02 GLS Sedan, 1.8T, 5 speed manual, stock tires/stock alloys.
-Craig
04 glx passat wagon 4motion all extras
invoice 31,300 + 500 ??
thanks
ps: sticker is 33,900 i think
Driving a variant (wagon) with 1.8T, Tiptronic, stock Michelins on stock alloys (set at 32 psi):
1) City (in hilly Pittsburgh, PA): 21 or so, in summer. Ascending the hills eats into the mileage. Winter is worse, especially on short trips, as should be expected. Worst mpg rating was 17 mpg on tank from last January, during a particularly bad cold snap with many short trips.
2) Highway/Interstate: 30 to 32 mpg (cruise set between 69 and 72 mph).
I just did two trips to Canada (Niagara Peninsula one trip and Windsor/Essex County the other). Driving on the back roads of Essex county (really flat area on Lake Erie's north shore with very few stop lights and with little to no hard acceleration), I was getting 36 mpg on some trips. Driving around Windsor, which is nice and flat, I got mid 20's, most trips.
So I'm essentially matching the EPA rated mileage of 21/30. Not bad for a 3,600 lbs. car, IMHO. If I actually ran the exact speed limit on the Interstates, I'm sure I would exceed it by several more mpg.
I keep a very comprehensive spreadsheet on my mileage (Excel is my friend) at each fill up. BTW, the MFA on my car is within 1% accuracy of completing the calculation by hand.
If the answer is yes to any two of these questions, then my response is "yes it is a good deal."
If you cannot however answer yes to two of these questions, I'd try to squeeze every last nickle out of this deal -- go in on a Saturday about a half hour before closing and don't let anyone leave until you've worn them down, pissed them off so much that they went ahead and sold you the car as much to have the transaction over with as to actually perform a sales and post-sales (and perhaps even relationship building) service to you -- their customer.
Unless you absolutely think they are stealing from you or in some other way legally screwing you in this deal -- and you like the car and want to build a relationship with the company -- just buy the car.
Over the years I have learned that somewhere, sometime almost anything can be found cheaper somewhere else.
My quest is to get the whole package (product, service, relationship) not just the best price. And, when you approach it that way, you often end up getting a very good deal in the process.
No matter what you end up doing, I'll bet that someone will tell you they coulda got it fur less!
"To avoid unnecessary engine wear and to reduct exhaust emissions, do not let your vehicle stand and warm up. Be ready to drive off immediately after starting your vehicle. Maintain moderate speed until the engine is completely warm."
With every other car I have ever driven, a few minutes' standing warm-up was recommended, especially during cold weather. Why is this not true with the Passat? Living in the Chicago area, where winters are often cold, I would love the convenience of just starting and driving off--but I don't want to harm the engine. Any thoughts?
I would also believe the engine wear thing to be true, because they say it's not good to let your vehicle idle for long periods of time.
Just a thought...
Jeremy
Can I ask that you take off your caps lock when you post messages here? It looks like you are yelling at all of us, and I don't think that's what you mean to be doing!
:-)
If you like a floaty ride, bobbing up and down over bumps, and leaning through turns, all the while sucking down gas like there's no tomorrow, then a Lincoln IS your vehicle.
I'm 6'3, 225lbs, and I fit into a Passat with ease (the seat still has 3 or 4 more notches to move back). I can imagine weighing 300 lbs and still fitting easily. Not really sure what you're getting at.
-Craig
>>With every other car I have ever driven, a few minutes' standing warm-up was recommended, especially during cold weather. Why is this not true with the Passat? Living in the Chicago area, where winters are often cold, I would love the convenience of just starting and driving off--but I don't want to harm the engine. Any thoughts?<<
I don't know what cars you've previously owned, but I can tell you this...the manual for every car that I've owned that was fuel injected (yeah, I'm an old bugger and I still remember the old days before FI) said the same thing...Start it and go, driving moderately until the engine warmed up. MAYBE one or two mentioned a brief warm up in abnormally cold (below zero) temperatures. For normal weather (which I'll describe as between zero and 100+, there's no need to warm up the engine.
From first hand experience, I can tell you that no warm up is needed on the Passat with most temps you'll likely encounter in Chicagoland. Just start it and drive off moderately; you'll do the car and the environment a favor!