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thx
Let's say you want to put it where the radio is at, then it jumps to $3100, which includes the Nav system and radio with pop up screen.
I assume with the new Touareg and Phaeton's which do have sat nav available, that VW's across the board will at least soon begin to offer this as an option -- On*Star should be here soon, too.
I would only add the in-dash models that are offered by Pioneer, Alpine, Blaupunkt, etc -- the Neverlost systems (like in rental cars) would be targets for damage and theft in my opinion.
Then after a while everything was back to normal. Then later that night this happened again. Have any of you heard of this?
Thanks
I am curious what some of our original owners of older, higher mileage Passats think. Has the car lived up to expectations? How has wear and tear been?
I purchased my 2000 Passat 1.8t in May of 2000. I just turned 50,000 miles and have not had any repairs to date. I am still on the original tires as well as breaks and am curious about some of our other "more experienced" owners.
This is my third VW and could not be happier at this point.
R. J.
The sales staff and managers at my dealership could correctly be described as lying dirtbags, but the service department always has been efficient and honest.
This happened to me once before, and somehow it corrected itself. This time its been a week, and I'm starting to lose hope that will happen again! The one thing I can think of that MAY have caused this..... I returned to my parked car one day to close the sunroof... I turned the key to "accessory" just long enough to close the sunroof (and prob. long enough for other accessories to start coming on, including the Monsoon). When I next got in the car, the radio unit had no power.
I'm going on a long drive this weekend and want to hear some tunes! Has anyone had this same problem???? (P.S. I checked the fuse box, and even swapped fuses with another accessory to see if that would help. It didn't)
Locate fuse #42
Remove it for about a minute
INsert fuse #42
Use radio.
You'll have to reset some stations.
Any other suggestions? Ones I should try removing? Thanks for your expertise!
I guess if you can't figure which fuse goes to the radio you could pull each one, count to ten and put it back in.
Now the bad part of my story - I have now found out that it isn't just the radio that does this. I came out from work to go home (on a 105 deg afternoon) and my climatronic (A/C) was dead. I took it straight to the dealer and nabbed the same mechanic out of the service bay. He checked all the fuses, and sure enough one was blown. He replaced it and it blew again. He replaced the control module and it blew another fuse. So he said I need to bring it in in the morning so he could trace the short. At that time he thought a blower motor was roasted.
The next morning the short was gone. They tried all kinds of combinations (like opening sunroof while moving electric seat with the windshield wipers on) and nothing would blow it.
The A/C works like a champ right now, but I don't have a clue if and when it will bug out again.
I still love my car - it is just too smooth at 115. Just hope I don't blow a fuse when I'm really cooking along.
Gator
They're about as much fun as a root canal.
-Craig
I would consider an Accord EX 4cyl with 5 speed manual as a replacement for my Passat, but it doesn't have curtain air bags. Instant elimination for me.
Oh, it also doesn't have side mirror defrosters (no Accord in the US does).
-Craig
I'd rather have a broken ankle than a broken head.
-Craig
everyone: I don't really see the problem with having problems with a car. I can see the problem when you are out of warranty but during the warranty, i feel that people should stop complaining. If your car has a problem, just take it back to the dealership and have them fix it. From my experience, you always get a loaner car and all of my loaner cars have been equal to or better than the car in service. I know what some people might say, "If i paid $30-$40,000 for my car, it shouldn't have any problems." but every car will have some kind of problem and to fix it, just take it back to the dealership.
Isn't the Outlander the SUV that failed the rollover tests, and as a result had an exclusive article in Consumer Reports about how unsafe it is? Doesen't sound like a good replacement for the Passat.
I am adamant that once these cars start to have ANY electrical issues they are doomed. Sell sell sell. IF you have one that is working fine, you are lucky and you have a great car that will perform for years apparently. The regional manager who did my repurchase suggested that most german cars once a problem is identified in electrical system, it is a phantom problem machine for the rest of its life...The new 7 series is my attorneys most repurchased car right now as it has so much stuff running through miles of fiber optics that the old WWII 12 volt systems fail 1.5 per hundred or something like that.
Now i still find myself missing the car immensely even with new g35. I may still try the new one out next year for girlfriend who misses mine but would never ever own without warranty. Also reccommended one to my boss who purcashed last week....all this after lemon law. May be best passenger car out there...when they work properly. God that blue was pretty and i got more comments on passat than i ever do on G35 -imagine that.
-Craig
Here's the line from alldata.com:
Bulletins for 2001 Volkswagen Passat GLS L4-1781cc 1.8L Turbo (AUG)
RECALLUR SEP 01 Campaign - Fuel Level Sending Unit Replacement
Go to a dealership, tell them about the recall, and have them fix it for free. They can't tell you they're not going to replace it because they can't see it - the recall is a mandatory fix.
This also applies to V6 GLS models.
-Craig
But I also have that buzz in the rear driver side tweeter. I can reliably produce it as well -- just fire up Joe Satriani or any of my hard techno CD's. The radio seems to bring it out as well, mainly when the DJ's are chatting away in the morning. Other CD's I've played don't necessarily cause the buzz -- it depends on the type of music.
My personal guess is that the speaker blew out. I find that odd when I've never pushed the system past half max volume, and typically I'm around 1/4 - 1/3 max. That shouldn't be anywhere near enough to blow out a tweeter.
In any event, I plan on having it replaced under warranty as it's clearly a defective speaker.
As for the subwoofer question, check out this product from JL Audio -- http://www.jlaudio.com/stealthbox/passatB5.html. It's a subwoofer designed to fit in the storage "pocket" in your trunk. It can be wired directly to the amp used for the Monsoon system, and when mounted it's flush with the trunk wall. It looks just like a part of the trunk! I'm planning on purchasing one as soon as funds become available, since the techno stuff I listen to has some pretty deep bass and is pushing the mid cones from the Monsoon system pretty hard.
I really don't think you'll need two subs -- my brother-in-law has an Audi A6, which comes with a trunk-mounted sub as part of the standard Bose system, and it's plenty. This "StealthBoxt" subwoofer from JL Audio should be just fine all by itself. JL Audio also sells custom amps if you feel you need a replacement for the stock one.
I thought that each speaker in the monsoon system had it's own amp? Could I add one JL audio amp to run the stealthbox? Thanks for the tip, I checked out the website. I crank mine up all the time, but the tweeter has that annoying noise mostly when I am listening to talk radio. I thought maybe it was just AM, but it does it on FM also. Problem is, it isn't that consistent so I can plan to take it to VW to have it checked out. Do you think they could figure it out even if it isn't doing it when I take it in?
You're right about each speaker having its own amp -- I just found that out today when I was checking out the Monsoon Audio site. The speakers also have dedicated cross-overs for the high, mid-range, and low bands. I'd imagine you would, in fact, need to add a dedicated sub-woofer amp to go with the ones provided for the existing speakers. I'm guessing you can re-route the existing cross-overs so that the low-frequency band gets routed to the sub instead of the mid-cones, and then the mid-cones can dedicate themselves to the mid-bass frequencies.
But then, I'm hardly an audio expert (in fact, I'm a rank novice when it comes to car audio). I'd let an figure that out (preferably someone with experience installing those StealthBox sub-woofers in B5-platform Passats).
Then, after replacing the axles, we had a problem with rough idling while the car was in drive but stopped. Turns out the motor mounts and the transmission mount had failed and needed to be replaced. We have had that done, but the car is still idling rough. The mechanic has done (For free) a complete fuel injection system cleaning and a throttle body cleaning, and that seems to have helped.
Overall, we are VERY happy with this car. In 4.5 years of ownership, this is the only time we've had to spend lots of money on it for non-maintenance type items. The car still gets great gas mileage (over 30 on highway), rides smoothly, and STILL turns heads. I've had two guys at the office ask me to let them know if we wanted to sell it because they wanted to buy it. However, my plan is to keep the car for 10 years at least. Now, if I have some other major failures in the next few months, I might reconsider, but right now, I am considering the repairs to be money well spent. I don't have a car note, so a bit of dough to maintain the car isn't such a bad thing.
Hope this information helps.
According to my owner's manual, the timing belt does not need to be replaced until 90,000 miles. So it looks like I have 24K miles to go before THAT needs to be done. I do believe the timing belt needs to be replaced sooner for the 1.8T (might be 40,000 or 60,000 miles).
I believe also that most mechanics recommend you replace the water pump at the same time and do some other service because the labor charges are, overall, less than doing those individually. I'll be seeing my mechanic this weekend, so I'll ask him again. He's a former VW mechanic who works for BMW but owns two VWs himself. He is also connected to a few VW service and parts guys, so he gets me the low down on VW service when I need it, plus, his rates are 50% - 70% less than VW.
Off topic, but are you from Cincinnati? That's my home town! Born there in '66. Lived on Clifton Avenue for a number of years and still have relatives all over Cincy. Miss Grater's ice cream, Skyline coneys, UDF....etc. Hope you're enjoying it all! Take care.
1) what's my warranty say about the timing belt breaking prematurely?
2) Have you had all of the timing belt checks completed and documented in the past? Can you access those documents?
If you're comfortable that VW will replace/rebuild your valves/heads under warranty, then I'd go to the 90K.
If your a second owner and/or you can't provide VW with the documentation mentioned above, I'd give real thought to having the timing belt (and other exposed components - wter pump) done earlier.
The damage to the valves is pretty much catastrophic and expense. So I'd want to make sure that someone else is going to foot the bill or avoid the potential completely. YMMV.
105k is way too long in my opinion. I'm going to get mine done at 80k (many moons away for me).
-Craig