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Comments
Oil: 4 x $4.29 (Valvoline Synpower 5w-40)
Filter (the new oem "BIG" filter): $8.25
Labor: $15
Disposal Fee: $0.50
Add in the tax, and it's right around $45. Get the owner's manual stamped and I'm out the door.
$20 for the filter?!?!? Wow, that's quite a mark-up.
I try to bring my own oil to cut costs, but the deal I have is now that I pay for the difference between the syn and non syn oil (since Audi is paying the difference).
The oil change price on our 1 BMW was ALWAYS dead on (well practically) $100 -- but they washed the car (what a deal).
If you are getting a dealer oil change for $65 with syn oil -- and you do not bring the parts or fluids, all I can say is "bargain!"
From time to time my dealer has a $29.95 oil change special (fine print -- plus filter, plus shop cosumables). In that case it STILL comes to over $50 bucks and NO syn oil.
If you get this kind of treatment for $45 (but you are bringing your own stuff) and are happy, you are clearly saving money.
The rest of us -- even with Audis -- are apparently paying more.
WOW -- $15 labor -- our labor rate is currently based on a "shop rate" of $80 per hour. I suspect the fraction, thereof is 1/4 hour.
It's all because of my "driving habit" so these wearable parts are not covered although rest of the car is still under "bumper to bumper" warranty. I don’t think “extended warranty” would have covered this unexpected expense. I’ve never had to part with this much money to fix breaks of any of my past owned car. (Apart from a new Passat, list includes a Used Toyota Camry, Used Nissan Sentra, New Honda Accord, New Lexus RX300 and a New Honda Odyssey)
Dec 28, 2006 will be a big day for me, when I've to return leased VW Passat. It may be the last day of my last ownership of any VW family product. It sure will be emotional day; perhaps heart will be crying but brain smiling...
Cheers!
German cars (and European cars generally) are "breathtakingly expensive" to maintain and fix out of warranty. Only the very very wealthy can afford to own one of these cars without the safety blanket of extended maintenance and warranty plans (which ARE available).
This is an area where I want to be wrong. And, yes there are people with German cars with 100,000 miles on them with only routine maintenance as their costs.
If you can bear to go elsewhere, I think you can cut these costs almost in half -- as I am almost certain the charge from VW for the rotors and pads is "outrageous" -- OEM equivalents cost less, much less. These replacement parts are not seconds or poor quality (generally) -- but they will come from elsewhere, not a VW dealer. Still, my gut tells me you will pay about $500.
What "driving habit" would wear both pads and rotors after only 33K miles -- even left foot breaking (the Michigan System) wouldn't do that!
My barber has a new VW beetle -- at 10,000 miles, he says it is the best car he has ever had (he is in his 40's).
I do not think, therefore, that this would be any different if you instead had a Volvo or Bimmer or Audi -- except there would be no charge with the BMW or the Audi for the first 50,000 miles.
Repeat after me: breathtakingly expensive. . . .
IMHO, I cannot afford to take the risk to have "unprotected German cars."
thanks for the comparison of keeping the car out of warranty verses buying a new one.. i am uneasy keeping it as it could be a money pit..
like most of us, I love the ride , i mean I really love it .. but the frequent trips to the dealer I hate.. anyhow thanks for your reading time
BTW, I just put a set of Nokian performance all weather tires on for the winter driving in the northeast and the ride is very nice, they say they can be ran all year as well.
Both have been reliable. The main differences are that the Passat is more fun to drive, carries more cargo (perhaps not true for an AWD Passat) and gets 28-32 mpg; while the Volvo is more luxurious, has more comfortable seats and feels more spacious in front because the dash intrudes less into the cabin. It costs more and gets about five-to-seven fewer mpg with similar road conditions.
The Volvo is noisier and the ride and handling are not as good as the Passat's. While the higher stance and semi-suv tires of the XC account for some of this, I also have driven most other V70 variations. Only the high performance R version handles better than the VW, and it has a stiff, noisy ride and costs well over $40K.
All in all, both are good, safe cars. Compare them carefully, then choose based on your own priorities.
Any way, after my recent experience, I might go back to Japanese or start with a first American car. For example, heard that Chevy Malibu MAXX or some of the Mazda and Subaru offer performance, may be not as good as German models, but somewhat comparable. I, being a cost conscious buyer, plan to include them while excluding VW family products from my shopping list next time.
So, if you don’t mind paying more as an average case scenario for whatever “more” you think you are getting then go with a VW. Personally, I might get a brand new Malibu MAXX LT or Mazda 6 for about the same if not less. Again, Performance will be less if not the same but who cares as long as it’s acceptable to the owner?!
Markcincinnati, thanks for a follow up. Does extended warranty cover premature break repairs? I drive in Boston and a bit on the aggressive side, just like, drive like you live!
Do you mean the 1.8t is the base model?
What is the price you are being quoted for the Passat? With all the incentives on VW's, you would probably get a great deal on a Passat.
So, for a used Passat 1.8t GLS they are asking $22,999. That is way too high and especially for a non certified car. I bought my brand new GLS 1.8t automatic for $20,900 back in June. What year is the Passat?
This morning I took it in to my dealer for an
oil change and possible rear brake pads. The oil
change cost 26.95 (non-synthetic oil). The
service manager told me that I still had a good
30 percent left on the pads. Since I live in
Houston and do alot of driving in heavy traffic
I felt sure that the pads would be worn out.
My dealer (DeMontrond VW) always provides quick,
courteous and quality service.
This car has needed only one headlight replaced,
the glove box door lock replaced and just recently
new Michelin Pilot tires. I have had many US
cars including Cadillac, 4 Mercedes, 5 Honda
Accords and 1 VW. Only 2 Mercedes cars would rank
above this super Passat. One of the Hondas was
very good and two of them had substantial problems. This Passat runs like it did when new;
it is fun to drive and I have a good VW dealer.
DO NOT TURN THE SYSTEM OFF. The option to do so is for very narrow circumstances, like testing the car on a dyno machine for emissions or diagnostics.
I noticed when slipping a bit in the snow the other morning that the attention ("!") light on the dash flashed on and off. Apparently the ESP was doing its thing due to lost traction. At any rate, I'll make sure not to fiddle with it.
(1) For more info on it: try http://www.esceducation.org/about_esc/index.shtml
(2) I'm aware of 3 studies, one at the University of Iowa, the others by Mercedes and by Toyota. All 3 found, using different methodologies, that it reduces the likelihood of getting into an accident by over 30%. That's big insurance.
(3) An example of how it works: a friend of mine had to brake hard and steer hard at the same time (to avoid another driver who ran a red). My friend is a former race-car driver and really knows driving and cars. He is sure that any previous car he's owned would have gone into a skid and had an accident. But braking hard/steering hard is exactly the kind of situation ESP is designed for. It worked. No skid, no accident.
This morning I took it in to my dealer for an
oil change and possible rear brake pads. The oil
change cost 26.95 (non-synthetic oil).
I'm sure you're aware, VW and Audi has issued a bulletin on 1.8T sludge. They require you to use oils that meet the VW502.00 standard and the new (and much bigger) oil filter. The VW502.00 is not a new requirement for the Passat (please read your owner's manual), and only certain synthetic oils meet the VW502.00 requirement.
http://www.vw.com/SP/pdf/oilchart.pdf
I urge you to take your car back to the dealership and request a proper oil change, even if you have to pay the cost difference between Castrol Syntec 5w40 and Castrol GTX 5w30.
Just leased a 2005 Passat GLS. Can I use the low rated gasoline in this car (89) I believe? The manual recommends higher quality gas.
Also, I do love this car in about every way. One thing I did find annoying was the trunk. It is pretty difficult to close it. Is this some sort of tightness issue or does everyone else have this problem.
Thanks all for reading.
Assumptions: 12,000 miles a year, $0.20 price difference per gallon between 87 and 93, and 23 mpg annual average fuel consumption.
12,000 miles/23 mpg = 521.7 gallons of fuel.
521.7 x 0.20 = $104.34.
That's $2.00 a week, or $0.286 a day, or $0.0087 a mile. Seems worth it to me for maximum engine performance and fuel economy.
And if you are considering midgrade, cut these values in half (assuming $0.10 price spread).
Ahhh, it's a leased vehicle....
One of the things that happens when you use lower octane rated gasoline in an engine that needs higher octane to "live up to its potential" -- IT COSTS MORE!
The reverse, however, is NOT true -- using higher than needed gas in a car than requires only regular, will not gain anything -- other than a lighter wallet.
One reason that using regular in a premium gas car costs more is that the regular generates less power per "unit" of fuel. There are more technical and chemically accurate explanations, but look at it simply -- to enjoy the power you want and can get with premium fuel you will burn more regular fuel.
Using regular in an engine designed for premium is a false economy -- you will not save $ by cheapening out on the fuel.
I'm in the process of purchasing a 2005 passat GLS 4 motion from chicago. I'm being offered a tag of 25K which i feel is decent considering the fact that none of the other dealers wanna go below that price.
He is also offering me Autoguard worth $499 at no cost...ever heard of that ? What is it ? I'm sure no dealer would offer you something worth 500 bucks at no charge to u....this makes me kinda suspicious....
I test drove a 01 accord with 47000 miles on it.
Ther was a rattle in the dash,the suspension felt
soft also. My 94 felt tighter,more power, and they both had the v-tech. My 94 was a 4-speed
auto., the 01 was a 5-speed manuel! Honda's
quality has gone down! With that said I have decided on the passat. I was looking at an 03 with the 1.8 turbo. I have heard good and bad on
reliability. My two buddies have the TDI jetta's
and they love them. Please someone ease my concerns alittle.
Ask for receipts for oil changes. They must be 5000 miles apart.
1.8T was prone to sludge if improper oil was used (most of the dealers used wrong oils). VW extended warranty but one has to prove that car was maintained properly.
Do not buy used Passat without maintenance documentation.
Krzys
to use. thanks again.
Http://www.vw.com/SP/pdf/oilchart.pdf
for acceptable oils. BTW, DON'T use the Valvoline Synpower in 5w-30. Per Valvoline, it doesn't meet VW Spec 502.00.
48,000 miles on it. I have read nothing but good
things on the V6. Is there anything I need to look out for? The dealer is asking 17,991, I was
going to offer 15,000.00.
can I look for an extended warranty? Thanks again for the info.
2001? You are asking for trouble if you buy this car. VW's are great cars, but tend to get very expensive to maintain and repair. A 2001 model year car is no longer in warranty and this makes an extended warranty even more vital. I have leased all my VW's which means I will never own the car when the warranty expires.
Following message has flashed for a few times on the message center of my 2002 Passat GLX 4-motion.
"STOP" followed by "BREAK FAULT" followed by "SERVICE MANUAL".
I took the car to dealer who couldn't diagnose the correct code (so they recommended to change rotors and pads!). They did the 35,000 miles service (car has 33,800 miles) while car was there (but again forgot to top off power steering fluid)
Any way, the message came back again, which usually goes away once I restart the car - kind of like how Microsoft windows!
please reply if you know what this code might be. Thanks very much in advance.
I have no idea your annual milage needs, but I'll just go with 15,000.
If you acquire a car with some 48,000 miles on it and keep it ~42 months, you will put 52,500 miles on it and you will then have a car with 100,500 miles on it and you will be in month 43 of your ownership.
Your real cost in money to acquire the car will have been $15,000 (you will have this much less in your bank account). Your monthly cost for having this car for this term would be $357.00 (assuming you paid cash fo the car). I can only assume you would have 0 warranty and that all maintenance and repairs would have had to have been done by you -- financially.
In theory, you will spend about $450 per 15,000 miles or $1575. If you need tires, figure another $500. Again assuming cash up front your real out of pocket cash would be $406.54 per month -- if nothing, period, needs to be repaired.
The car would have some residual value -- but remember the opportunity cost. If you pay cash, you are instantly "out" the $15,000. If you finance, the payments will be higher than noted above.
Please take a look at how much car you can get on a $0.00 money down, 42 month lease for -- just for the sake of argument -- $356.04 per month.
I picked that number "as if" you will live in a perfect world, where NO REPAIRS, period, have to be done on your used car already with 48,000 miles on it (you determine if this is likely or unlikely).
And, I wanted to assume some residual value for the used car if you purchased it and kept it for the term and miles estimated above. I wanted to "even out" as much as possible (subjectively) the cost of the used car and my alternative suggestion.
If you lease the car as I noted, you will have spent $2,100 less "out of pocket." At the end of the lease you will neither own the car nor have to "worry" about trade in or direct sale issues -- which has to be worth something -- perhaps $25 per month?
Today, actually even better from December 27, through February 28th, you will be able to lease a brand new car with factory warranty (and perhaps factory maintenance) for the amount noted above.
If you leased the "least expensive" BMW 3 series(I know this is a VW forum -- relax for a moment) with no money down, first mo payment up front (and you may qualify for no sec dep) and a term of 42 months, based on what I have seen in the paper, you would have $0 service or repair costs, probably 1 set of replacement tires, insurance, gas and license plates.
Around month 36 - 39 BMW would attempt to get you to lease another one by forgiving the remaining payments or some other incentive.
My point is, you must be paying cash up front and planning to keep the car until it is worthless and hoping that it will not need any $$$$ repairs.
I couldn't afford to purchase the car for $15,000 -- but I could afford to lease a brand new one every 36 to 42 months.
It costs too much money -- and uncertainty makes it cost even more -- to acquire the used one.
And, if your approach on the used one is to finance it -- well the costs are even more in favor of leasing the new one.
See how much BRAND NEW Passat, for instance, you can lease for that kind of money.
Wouldn't you really rather have a new car? For economy, safety, performance AND fun?
The entire wiring harness had to be replaced. (2 weeks repair.) Upon replacing the wiring harness and before returning the car to me, i was informed that the catalytic converter melted on the test drive, that the O2 sensors are burned out, and that all the sparkplugs were toast. This sounds very bad to me. They explained that upon testing the car, the computer was sending a 80% fuel /20% air mixture to to the engine, causing engine to flood and sending a ton of fuel to the catalytic converter. Thus explaining the spark plug and catalytic converter problem. The repair for this is to replace the sparks, the catalytic converter and the O2 sensors. In the process they broke and air return nipple which is now being replaced.
1. Is this believeable? Does the explanation fit the problem?
2. What is going on here?
3. How can i be sure that they haven't destroyed my car? I am worried that the engine, valves, pistons, cylinders, etc. have all been compromised.
HELP.
http://www.panavise.com/nf/comm/indash/idbrandsearch.html
Pick the vehicle and look at the pictures. They provide instructions on installing.
Goo Luck.
Instead purchase price 30k, sold after 40 months for 21k, set tires $500.So i spent $9500 for 40 months for effective $237.50 per month.Not including the mileage overage i would have owed.
Two factors to consider, i did not have a small business that i could have deducted any lease payments and the Strong resale value of the E46.
DL
To make much of the lease versus buy things work, it is assumed CASH up front -- the days of low low interest rates are coming to an end.
If, however, you can get a low interest rate, less than 2% for instance, well, then the purchase versus lease gets more interesting.
Recently when attempting to consider which way to go, we priced both lease and buy a 2004 and a 2005 Audi S4. No matter how we looked at it, the ONLY way to "win" with the 2004 was 100% cash up front, and even then, that assumes there would be not better use for those funds.
It is true that having a business write off does make the lease ALMOST a no brainer.
Other salient points have to do with your suggestion that he was looking to BUY a brand new versus 3 year old vehicle that already had 48,000 miles on it.
My attempt, and I said attempt, was to approximate the costs based on a starting point of 3 years old and 48,000 miles already on the clock.
Most of us would not be so fortunate to buy at $30K and sell almost 3.5 years later for a 70% residual.
Our poster was, in my estimation, starting NOT with a leg up, but with a leg down on the process considering that it was possible to have a car with over 100,000 miles on it when it was "paid for" -- not to mention the almost certain 4 figures worth of repairs it would require in that time frame (not to mention maintenance costs).
For the sake of argument I am considering the timing belt a repair, although I realize this rather expensive maint item is technically considered maintenance.