Any opinions/experiences out there about getting a GM Protection Plan? I just bought our second 2001 Intrigue for our son to drive (mine is GLS-53K miles , his a GX) and am considering a GMPP. The car has 69,900 miles on it, and just had the transmission replaced a couple months ago. The car runs real well. I paid $6700 for the car. A full GMPP for 36 months, 24K miles runs about $2300 with $50 deductible (for cars with 60K-75K miles). It sounds pretty high to me. Higher deductibles are not cost-competitive. It would take several major failures to get $3000 in repairs. I bought my GLS 2 yrs ago with 31K miles, and it has only cost me a $400 air pump repair in the last year (after warranrty expired 2/2006).
Personally, I don't think it would be worth it, however I do wonder why the seller got rid of so soon after replacing the tranny. Did he have several recent repairs that made him lose confidence in the car? Assuming the tranny was repaired correctly, it would take 3-6 significant repairs to recoup the roughly $2500. And the warranty is only good for another 24,000 miles. Yes of course if the engine croaked it would be worth it, but the 3.5 has proven to be reliable past 100k for most people.
He bought the car for his daughter to use, from an older couple (the norm here in Florida). He tells me the old lady had a habit of putting the car into park before it was stopped, and wore out what's called sunshine bearing. It only was a diff of $300 to get a new gm tranny (1900 vs 2200) thru a buddy at the local chevy dealer. Anyways, his daughter's car came down from NY so he had an extra car on his hands, and insurance to pay on it, so he decided to sell.
My take is that even if it needed a new steering rack and a new AC compressor/evaporator, that would almost be the cost of the warranty, after maybe tossing in a window motor. So I would only break even IF those problems arose (and GM dealer admitted that a problem existed). The tranny shifts very smoothly. As a matter of fact, under the same conditions, (my wife following in my GLS) going 74 mph on flat interstate, this 2001 GX runs at 1950 rpm while my GLS runs at 2150 rpm. So the GX is running at 10% better efficiency. Go figure.
his 2001 GX runs at 1950 rpm while my GLS runs at 2150 rpm. So the GX is running at 10% better efficiency. Go figure.
It is more possible the efficiency is due to the gls having PCS where the final drive ratio is 3.29 versus 3.05 without PCS. Almost a 8% increase in RPM.
I have a 2002 GLX with 90,000 miles and the gas pedal has started sticking so you have to break it free that first 1/4 inch and then it works normally. I sprayed silicon in the cable house that goes through the firewall but that has not helped. Anyone hadd this problem and/or know how to fix? Is it the cable or something to do with the pedal mechanics?
You should probably check the throttle body. I had this problem on my 99 Intrigue at around the same mileage. Throttle blade is probably sticking in the body; over time carbon build-up can cause this. Pick up a can of throttle body cleaner at the parts store, pull the intake tube off and hold open the throttle blade. Spray some cleaner in there and let it sit for a few minutes and wipe out. This can be caused by running premium fuel when not needed. Premium gas is less volatile and therefore can cause carbon build-up problems in engines not designed for premium fuel. Not saying this is for sure your problem, just a possibility. This is a known problem for 99+ V8 Silverados.
Well, after 99 months of faithful service, our 99 Intrigue GL is now in the hands of another. Traded last weekend for a 2006 Impala 3LT with 11,000 miles. Pretty loaded (heated leather, sunroof, etc.) Only option missing is the Bose stereo. Our Intrigue had over 137,000 miles and, ironically, we traded it in at the same dealership originally purchased. Impala was $17,995 and they gave us $2,500 trade-in for a difference of $15,495 out the door (no add-ons or BS, which was nice). We should be able to pay off the Impala by Labor Day. They told us they were impressed at the condition of our Olds, but they wish it had 60,000 miles instead of 137,000. I told them if it only had 60,000, we wouldn't be there! This is the wife's daily driver, and she is very happy with her "new" car. It is quieter and rides better and the 3.9 VVT pushrod engine is amazingly powerful and efficient (27.7 MPG on the first full tank).
We now own 2 2001 Intrigues, a GX and a GLS. I would like to have the locks keyed the same to cut down on the number of keys needed to carry. Can this be done? Can the remote entry receivers be set to the same for both cars as well? I thought someone may know on here so I have some info before calling dealer. You do it on your locks on your house, why not on car, especially if you buy the car used and worry someone else has a copy of the key or a remote.
My initial guess is probably not. the key is integral to the security system. there is a chip in the key that matches the ignition system. If the key does not match, the car will not start.
Thanks evando for the info, I read a couple of postings on this forums and I was a little concerned because this is not a production car any more. The dealer wants $3000 for it, the women who traded it in got the car from her mother so they have had it since new. Its clean, and in good condition.
The Intrigue overall is a nice car but does suffer from a few chronic problems. Read through the forums and you'll pick up on a few of them right away. I have 138,000 miles on my 2000 Intrigue. It gets acceptable gas mileage and I have been very lucky with regard to problems.
I would offer the dealer $2500 and see if they bite. The car is not in high demand.
good luck.
the one thing you need to be careful is the car can move onthe highway. You can do 80 with no problem. Not sure how old your daughter is....
He didn't bite at$2500, he did at $2700 and my daughter fell in love with it. Other then a few scratches on it the car is very clean inside and out. It does have getup and go! I did notice that when you start out from a stop, and it shifts from 1st to 2nd it doesn't snap into gear, it kind of slides into gear, while the other 2 gears, 3rd and 4th snap into gear. I got a 6 month warranty on the trans and engine so I will keep an eye on it.
Your daughter will enjoy the vehicle. I would get the transmission fluid changed and watch the oil. The 3.5L burns oil. I've been adding a quart every 1k-1.5k miles for the past 40k miles. No big deal.
I ( driving a 2001 GLS - sterling silver, never burns any oil, 53K miles) just bought a dark green 2001 Trig GX for my son to drive; 69K miles, $6700, prev owner just had new tranny installed. The car is sporty enough, nice lines, and good power. He's pleased. When my wife's Ody is out of the garage and the 2 Trig's are in there side-by-side, it looks so cool. Changed oil in both last Saturday, without even jacking up the cars. I like the safety of having the car on the ground. I am looking into having identical locks on each. The 3.5L engine is such a strong performer, although the V6 (with VCM) in the Ody is a powerhouse for a minivan. It has surprised me a few times.
Changed oil in both last Saturday, without even jacking up the cars. I like the safety of having the car on the ground.
How do you do that? I'm tired of the poor job done in lube shops and I want to start changing the oil and filter myself, but there's barely any room under the car...
You really don't need much room, as long as you can reach, from the front, the oil filter. If you can reach the filter, lying flat on the ground, using a socket wrench, you can do it. I am 6'5" tall and can reach it. First step is to change the filter. You use an oil filter wrench on the fitting that holds the internal filter. I had a wrench from a previous car, 2.8V6 1986 Pontiac 6000LE, and this fits the fitting. Put it on a socket ratchet and remove, letting the small amount of oil fall into a pan. Wipe area off (those blue paper scott towels are the best for oil), put in new filter in the fitting, and re-insert and tighten. Then open the oil filler cap on the engine to maximize oil flow, and remove the oil plug (faces directly to front of car) and drain oil. Best place to get decent priced filter: Autozone as the STP brand (8765) for 4.19. The FRAMs will cost upwards of $10, even $8 at walmart. Buy the STP filter at Autozone, and the oil at Walmart ($2 a quart for Quaker State). Hope this helps, and that you have the reach. Maybe from under the passenger front door is a shorter distance for the filter.
Evandro: Here is what I wrote on another forum about changing the oil in my 2000 Intrigue. It is very easy. the hardest part was getting the parts. You really need the correct oil filter wrench. I have since gone to a regular oil drain plug. I use ramps for the oil change. I'm 6'4" but not a svelte as 01Intrigue. Key thing to remember is it takes 5.5 quarts of oil to fill the engine and expect to get oil at least on your hands when emptying the oil filter cannister. Good luck. Let me know if yo have any questions.
"Performed my first oil change on my 2000 Intrigue (3.5). Pretty uneventful with all the information the board (minus the full oil filter canister falling out of my hand).
Drain Plug - Fram Sure Drain system (SD-4). I'll let you know how that works. If it weren't for the black plastic shield along the front, you could probably drain the oil without lifting the vehicle.
Filter wrench - Rite Fit A258 - 74 mm/15 flutes (purchased at Pep Boys). Perfect fit for the canister. Almost too perfect as I needed a screwdriver to pry it off the canister. AmPro 74/76 mm/15 flutes or Oil wrench "A" (forget the brand name but sold at AutoZone) will work as well as long as the canister was not overtightened like mine was.
Oil filter - Purolator 8765. Fram sells this filter for $9 while everyone else is $5 or less (purolator, AC Delco).
Engine Oil - I used Walmart oil for High Mileage vehicle hoping the thicker oil will help with the "burning". Also did the engine flush prior to changing. Figured no harm and it only cost $3.50 for the bottle.
This would make a great guide that would be helpful for other Intrigue owners. Copy what you've got here and just paste it in. Click on "Guides" above to get started.
If you are referring to the outside rubber piece, I believe the part number is 10442133. You may want to call a parts department to confirm this number.
When I bought my 2000 Intrigue, the woman I bought it from had only one key for the car. Is there any way of getting a spare key without having to buy one from the dealer for an arm and a leg?
Do the intrigues really have anything special in the key? I have two 2001 Intrigues, both with valet keys and don't have the any black vinyl/rubber on the top of the key. Is there really something special in these keys? A previous Silo we had, had special keys, and no valet key.
My son needs a car, but he is only 17. Saw an 02 w/97000 miles. Mileage is high, but the dealer is asking 6,000 and edmunds used car appraisal lists dealer price as 6,982. This deal is without any sort of guarantee or certification,just an oil change and a "safety check" whatever that really means. The price sounds good, yet I feel compelled to counteroffer, and wonder if there is some reason it is low.
For an 02 grand am se with 76,000 miles they want 7,000 (1000 more than this olds), yet the olds has more features and feels like more car.
It's a hard decision. My son doesn't love either, but they are the best choices we've seen. In fact he was saying "whats an Oldsmobile?" who ever heard of that? He is looking for a "cool" car.
Does the side safety rating mean the insurance will be higher? What kind of "issues" should I have a mechanic check? Does GM still service them and do they make parts?
Thanks for the input. This search is making me CRAZY!
Where are you located? I spent about 4 weeks to find the 01 I just bought for my son to drive. He loves the 215 HP, the looks, the handling, and the size. Use autotrader.com and search around 100 miles radius. I prefer buying from the original owner, or an established new car dealer. Orig owner usually has maintenance records. New car dealer usually has to bring car's mechanical condition up to some safety level. A 1999 intrigue GLS I found at a Saturn dealer had new tires, battery, hoses, belt, and maybe other stuff that I couldn't notice. I saw a couple cars at small user-car outfits, and was not pleased. They get the cars that new car dealers won't touch. You can find nice condition intrigues because most frequent buyers were older folks who baby their cars. If you find a grand am with the 3800 V6, that is also a strong stable powerplant.
I noticed that the dealership at which we traded in our Intrigue has it advertised at $5,995. Car has 138,000 miles on it. It is a one-owner, leather, chrome-wheeled GL, in better than average condition (everything works) but this still seems like an absurd price to me. They gave us $2,500 trade value a couple of weeks ago. But that was off the list price of the car we purchased, so it was more like $1,500 in reality, since I'm sure I could have negotiated at least $1,000 off the car we bought without a trade-in.
Thanks for that info, it confirms my thoughts when I figured that they about doubled what they gave for the trade-in, or in this price range add at least 2,000. Figuring that on a new car they often give invoice and only make several hundred, I should be able to get 1000 off the price they give me of most of these used cars and they should still be happy. (assuming they haven't put any $$ into them). Still looking. Going to get a price on a Chev Malibu with less miles before we decide what to do. What a headache!
I thoroughly detest negotiating with dealers. I could tell a great story of last Sept when we traded in our 2000 Silo with 120K miles for a new 2006 Odyssey EX-L. Both Intrigues I have purchased were from private owners who asked very reasonable prices for their cars. I just paid what they were asking, and everyone was happy. On another note, driving home tonite the Service eng Soon light came on :mad: . I just hope it's not another issue with that darn secondary air pump.
I'll give you my two cents. I owned a 2001 Malibu LS (34k miles) that i traded for my current van in Dec. 2003 along with a 96 Explorer (long story). I purchased my 2000 Intrigue with 61k miles for about $5500. The Intrigue is a much better car than the Malibu ever could be. I bought a year older car with substantially more miles on it and it felt like major upgrade over what I had.
Because I got such a sweet deal on the Intrigue, I put up with a number of annoyances that I would not if I had purchased new. I currently have 138k miles on the vehicle and it still runs well and should top 150k with regular maintenance and one or two minor repairs.
Read the Intrigue forum carefully. There are a number of common repairs for the Intrigue. Some hit or miss, some just a matter of time. If you are looking at an Intrigue with 97k miles, get the tranny fluid, coolant and oil changed. Don't be surprised or alarmed if it burning oil. It is a "characteristic" of the 3.5L engine. Check the wheel hub assembly. Most check engine light codes have been posted on the forum and regular posters can help you solve the problems.
I would take the Intrigue over the Grand Am any day.
A few weeks ago the SES light came up. As usual, I immediately checked if the gas cap was properly attached. As it seemed to be in good condition, I had the car taken to an auto parts store to have the code read; it was the gas cap. At close examination, there was a thin crack on it, probably due to the plastic deterioration after 7 years.
The auto parts store had a $5 gas cap, but without a tether, so I got one from the dealer. Yes, for much more money ($25), but not enough to bankrupt me.
I own a 99 Olds Intrigue. I'm having a problem that it seems no one can diagnose. This only happens once or twice a month at any rate of speed. A whining noise starts, sounds something like a fan belt and then the car starts to bog down an almost quit. Anybody have any suggestions?
I might suggest the secondary air pump, but I am not sure if the 99 models had one, and it usually triggers the service engine soon light and a P0410 error code. If the 99 has the pump, it would be more like a siren noise, and come from the front driver side under the hood (in front of air filter housing).
I'm new to the forum, so sorry for the late response. I have a 98GL and had a similar problem. My wife, the primary driver, never had a problem when she drove, but after I drove the car, it often required excessive force to push in the gear shift button. In our case the entire shifter assembly had to be replaced.
My 98GL also blows hot on driver's side and cold on passenger side, usually after disconnecting the car battery. I never figured out how to fix it, but it "fixes itself" after a few days. Very odd.
Hi, I stumbled upon this message board two weeks ago and it sounds very helpful. I bought a 2000 Intrigue a few months ago and it is having a similar problem of overheating, but only at certain RPMs. Below 2000 or 1800 RPMs, depending on the load, it heats up. If I give it some gas and have it shift into passing gear or a lower gear, or shift it mysef into a lower gear, and have the engine rev above that threshold- it cools back down. (It's a good thing the temperature gauge and the tachometer are close together in this car. But I do find myself disregarding the speedometer at times.) I have a thermostat on standing order at a local repair shop. Since I took it in a few weeks ago, they haven't been able to get the correct thermostat. Is this one stamped into the block like they say? I still have my '79 Buick as my fall-back steed, thankfully. I also love the Intrigue and I just want it to melow out. I had to have the belt tensioner replaced a few weeks ago. It locked up, threw bearings on the road, taught me how to thread a newer belt in jest, and I had the water pump tested while pros bailed me out. The belt-tensioner was a gonner but the water pump tested out fine. (I had hoped while I was waiting for the car to be fixed that this failing tensioner was placing undue burdons on the engine at lower RPMs, and thus it's overheating. Not true.) I've read here about this models overheating problems, either by bad thermostat, bad water pump, or bad coolant burping- but are any of these causes only symptomatic over 1800-2000 RPM? Thanks for anyones help. I like this car and I want to get it running right. Thanks again, Joe
After the rebuilt engine was installed, my car runs like a new car. Shortly afterwards a deer ran into my GLS & the car would shimmy & shake at speeds higher than 50 MPH plus my car died from an electrical problem. I had it towed to the local GM dealership whereas they came up with a list of $3000(e.g. bad wheels hubs, brakes, engine $ transmission servicing, etc.) of items that needed attention. Too make a long story short, I let them replace the alternator & battery then I took it to Tire Kingdom whereas they replaced the tire rods/front tires & they did a front end alignment. The car runs great but occasionally the engine will sputter right after starting up then the right hand SES light will come on then go out after a few days.
The numbers are actually 10311255 and 10311256 for the front. They are on order from gmpartsdirect. I received the rear set a couple of days ago....pretty easy to replace.
Any time the SES comes on, it leaves a code. I would suggest going to Auto Zone, Advance Auto parts, Pep Boys, etc. where they can scan your engine for free. Once you get the code, post it here and a number of people can help you.
Or P0410 - secondary air pump, which kicks on at engine start to help burn off pollutants before cat conv gets hot. it can even sound like a siren if a valve has problems. After a few days, the code gets reset, and stays off til it happens again. Mine was fixed last July, and earlier this week i heard a siren whil driving and later that day the SES light was on. It went off yesterday and I'll see when it happens again.
I have the same problem as a person before. It blows cold air on the passager side, but warm air on the drivers. and it does not fix the problem. Any ideas?
Haven't been here in a bit, thought I would post my 7 year report. I now have about 120K kms on the dial, the amazing thing about the Intrigue is it's still has no rattles or squeaks to speak of, it makes me want to hold on the her.
Otherwise, this year I replaced the rear brakes for the first time and the temperature sensor for the climate control. Since the warranty I have put almost nothing into the car other than brakes, oil and a battery. It's been a very good car and as tempted as I am by a new one, I can't even justify it yet for any other reason than because of age.
I am still looking at an Aura, the 08 Malibu, Impala and Fusion as replacements. Maybe a 08 CTS if they don't bump the prices too much. Not many cars that catch my eye.
My 2002 intrigue has 184,000 miles and is still a great car. I change the oil every 3 to 4,000 miles but have only reset the oil light when it was on after an oil change. Now the light comes on every time I start the car and goes off after 2 minutes. I have tried to reset but the light just stays on. Anyone have an idea whats wrong.
This is my second Intrigue the first I gave to my son with 200,000 plus miles. I wish I could still buy a new one.
Does anyone know the code for this. After the battery was off for a minute the radio will not work and gives me LOC and asked for a code. I never have program a code before.
Did you get this radio from a different car? The code in the radio is not matching the data in the car's computer. A dealer is required. This is Theftlock. :mad:
Sounds like you need to reset the "Change Oil" light. Very easy.
1. Turn igntion key to the "On" position 2. depress the accelerator 3 times within 5 seconds 3. Wait a few seconds for the "Change Oil" light to begin flashing. 4. After it finishes flashing, turn key off.
Comments
Any thoughts out there?
My take is that even if it needed a new steering rack and a new AC compressor/evaporator, that would almost be the cost of the warranty, after maybe tossing in a window motor. So I would only break even IF those problems arose (and GM dealer admitted that a problem existed). The tranny shifts very smoothly. As a matter of fact, under the same conditions, (my wife following in my GLS) going 74 mph on flat interstate, this 2001 GX runs at 1950 rpm while my GLS runs at 2150 rpm. So the GX is running at 10% better efficiency.
It is more possible the efficiency is due to the gls having PCS where the final drive ratio is 3.29 versus 3.05 without PCS. Almost a 8% increase in RPM.
Thanks.
It's a good car overall and delivers good mileage. Reliability-wise, it's been fair, weren't for a couple of power-windows falling inside the doors...
I would think that the remote receivers could at last be sync'd to same signal. I'll call dealer tomorrow and find out.
I would offer the dealer $2500 and see if they bite. The car is not in high demand.
good luck.
the one thing you need to be careful is the car can move onthe highway. You can do 80 with no problem. Not sure how old your daughter is....
Thanks for your info dtownfb.
Your daughter will enjoy the vehicle. I would get the transmission fluid changed and watch the oil. The 3.5L burns oil. I've been adding a quart every 1k-1.5k miles for the past 40k miles. No big deal.
How do you do that? I'm tired of the poor job done in lube shops and I want to start changing the oil and filter myself, but there's barely any room under the car...
Thanks for any advice.
Best place to get decent priced filter: Autozone as the STP brand (8765) for 4.19. The FRAMs will cost upwards of $10, even $8 at walmart. Buy the STP filter at Autozone, and the oil at Walmart ($2 a quart for Quaker State). Hope this helps, and that you have the reach. Maybe from under the passenger front door is a shorter distance for the filter.
"Performed my first oil change on my 2000 Intrigue (3.5). Pretty uneventful with all the information the board (minus the full oil filter canister falling out of my hand).
Drain Plug - Fram Sure Drain system (SD-4). I'll let you know how that works. If it weren't for the black plastic shield along the front, you could probably drain the oil without lifting the vehicle.
Filter wrench - Rite Fit A258 - 74 mm/15 flutes (purchased at Pep Boys). Perfect fit for the canister. Almost too perfect as I needed a screwdriver to pry it off the canister. AmPro 74/76 mm/15 flutes or Oil wrench "A" (forget the brand name but sold at AutoZone) will work as well as long as the canister was not overtightened like mine was.
Oil filter - Purolator 8765. Fram sells this filter for $9 while everyone else is $5 or less (purolator, AC Delco).
Engine Oil - I used Walmart oil for High Mileage vehicle hoping the thicker oil will help with the "burning". Also did the engine flush prior to changing. Figured no harm and it only cost $3.50 for the bottle.
Get a big drain pan. Lots of oil."
For an 02 grand am se with 76,000 miles they want 7,000 (1000 more than this olds), yet the olds has more features and feels like more car.
It's a hard decision. My son doesn't love either, but they are the best choices we've seen. In fact he was saying "whats an Oldsmobile?" who ever heard of that? He is looking for a "cool" car.
Does the side safety rating mean the insurance will be higher? What kind of "issues" should I have a mechanic check? Does GM still service them and do they make parts?
Thanks for the input. This search is making me CRAZY!
On another note, driving home tonite the Service eng Soon light came on :mad: . I just hope it's not another issue with that darn secondary air pump.
Because I got such a sweet deal on the Intrigue, I put up with a number of annoyances that I would not if I had purchased new. I currently have 138k miles on the vehicle and it still runs well and should top 150k with regular maintenance and one or two minor repairs.
Read the Intrigue forum carefully. There are a number of common repairs for the Intrigue. Some hit or miss, some just a matter of time. If you are looking at an Intrigue with 97k miles, get the tranny fluid, coolant and oil changed. Don't be surprised or alarmed if it burning oil. It is a "characteristic" of the 3.5L engine. Check the wheel hub assembly. Most check engine light codes have been posted on the forum and regular posters can help you solve the problems.
I would take the Intrigue over the Grand Am any day.
The auto parts store had a $5 gas cap, but without a tether, so I got one from the dealer. Yes, for much more money ($25), but not enough to bankrupt me.
I own a 99 Olds Intrigue. I'm having a problem that it seems no one can diagnose. This only happens once or twice a month at any rate of speed. A whining noise starts, sounds something like a fan belt and then the car starts to bog down an almost quit. Anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks
I stumbled upon this message board two weeks ago and it sounds very helpful. I bought a 2000 Intrigue a few months ago and it is having a similar problem of overheating, but only at certain RPMs. Below 2000 or 1800 RPMs, depending on the load, it heats up. If I give it some gas and have it shift into passing gear or a lower gear, or shift it mysef into a lower gear, and have the engine rev above that threshold- it cools back down. (It's a good thing the temperature gauge and the tachometer are close together in this car. But I do find myself disregarding the speedometer at times.)
I have a thermostat on standing order at a local repair shop. Since I took it in a few weeks ago, they haven't been able to get the correct thermostat. Is this one stamped into the block like they say?
I still have my '79 Buick as my fall-back steed, thankfully. I also love the Intrigue and I just want it to melow out.
I had to have the belt tensioner replaced a few weeks ago. It locked up, threw bearings on the road, taught me how to thread a newer belt in jest, and I had the water pump tested while pros bailed me out. The belt-tensioner was a gonner but the water pump tested out fine. (I had hoped while I was waiting for the car to be fixed that this failing tensioner was placing undue burdons on the engine at lower RPMs, and thus it's overheating. Not true.)
I've read here about this models overheating problems, either by bad thermostat, bad water pump, or bad coolant burping- but are any of these causes only symptomatic over 1800-2000 RPM?
Thanks for anyones help. I like this car and I want to get it running right. Thanks again, Joe
my GLS & the car would shimmy & shake at speeds higher than 50 MPH plus my car died from an electrical problem. I had it towed to the local GM dealership whereas they came up with a list of $3000(e.g. bad wheels hubs, brakes, engine $ transmission servicing, etc.) of items that needed attention. Too make a long story short, I let them replace the alternator & battery then I took it to Tire Kingdom whereas they replaced the tire rods/front tires & they did a front end alignment. The car runs great but occasionally the engine will sputter right after starting up then the right hand SES light will come on then go out after a few days.
Any ideas on what may cause this?
I have $10 that the code will be P0101.
Otherwise, this year I replaced the rear brakes for the first time and the temperature sensor for the climate control. Since the warranty I have put almost nothing into the car other than brakes, oil and a battery. It's been a very good car and as tempted as I am by a new one, I can't even justify it yet for any other reason than because of age.
I am still looking at an Aura, the 08 Malibu, Impala and Fusion as replacements. Maybe a 08 CTS if they don't bump the prices too much. Not many cars that catch my eye.
Anyway, that's it for now.
This is my second Intrigue the first I gave to my son with 200,000 plus miles. I wish I could still buy a new one.
http://www.gm.com/gmcomjsp/contactus/ContactUs_Faq_AnswerVC2.html
Did you get this radio from a different car? The code in the radio is not matching the data in the car's computer. A dealer is required. This is Theftlock. :mad:
1. Turn igntion key to the "On" position
2. depress the accelerator 3 times within 5 seconds
3. Wait a few seconds for the "Change Oil" light to begin flashing.
4. After it finishes flashing, turn key off.
It should reset the light.