Oldsmobile Intrigue

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Comments

  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    The GM vans are all pretty much the same. Pick the dealer you like the best and go with it.
  • crawdaddy753crawdaddy753 Member Posts: 9
    I ran over a deer & the check engine light, the anti-lock brake light, and the traction control light all came & stayed on. Shortly afterwards the engine(3.5L) died. It cost $4000 to get another engine(low mileage & a 1 year full warranty). She runs like a new car now & doesn't drink oil. This is one of the best cars I have ever owned behind my 1977 Dodge customized van, my 1988 Mazda RX-7 convertible & 1965 Ford Mustang convertible.
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Member Posts: 92
    The deer's family didn't have a $4,000 option for replacement.. Sorry, I just had to say that! :blush: What was the diagnosis on the busted engine? Did the deer knock the shafts out of alignment?
  • crawdaddy753crawdaddy753 Member Posts: 9
    The deer was already dead. Fyi,I didn't kill it. It's carcass was lying in the road, it was late at night & I couldn't avoid hitting it due to a semi on my rightside.A sensor was damaged due to the impact. Not sure what caused the engine to die, it had 111,000 miles on it. Like I said previously, it runs like a new car.
  • ab348ab348 Member Posts: 20,447
    My Intrigue is an '02 with 74,000 km (about 44,000 miles), always dealer maintained, that hasn't had a whole lot of problems until now -- warped rotors and a bad left control arm bushing were about it.

    Took it in today for normal service plus 2 specific complaints -- the new rotors were warped again, and I noticed a little red fluid in the driveway last week. Figured it was a bad tranny pan gasket. Wrong. The call came mid-morning with the list of problems:

    BOTH front control arm bushings were separated. Left was under warranty from last years replacement, right was mine. There must be a design problem with these. I've had older GM cars where the control arm bushings lasted for decades.

    Serpentine belt was cracked, needed replacement. Part not in stock, ordered.

    Front rotors turned, will need new ones next time. GM rotors on these cars seem good for very little time.

    The biggie: the red fluid wasn't tranny fluid but power steering fluid. They say it needs a new rack. Their price: $740 plus labor! I passed.

    When I picked the car up I spoke to the service manager about it -- a rack ought to last more than 40,000 miles. He said he'd speak to the factory rep about them going good for it, but wasn't optimistic.

    I stopped in at NAPA on the way home and they quoted me a reman rack for $240, so if GM doesn't stand behind it I'll get a local shop to replace it with an aftermarket reman unit.

    Makes me think about trade-in time...

    2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6

  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Sorry to hear about the Intrigue. I would definitely go with a remanufactured rack esp. if you plan to trade it in soon.
  • ab348ab348 Member Posts: 20,447
    Had it back in this week for the serpentine belt replacement and took advantage of the opportunity to follow up with the service manager on the rack issue. He agreed to take a look at it while it was in the shop. Conclusion: he couldn't find anything wrong with it. The tech that did the original diagnosis wasn't in but the manager doesn't think there is a problem. Makes me question how they train their techs, but no matter.

    The belt replacement is listed as requiring 0.4 hours labor but they seemed to have trouble with it as I was there for nearly 2 hours. In any event all is well now.

    2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6

  • jhdjhd Member Posts: 20
    I have not posted for some time, everything was going good with my 1998 Trigue, 3800 engine, 170k km.
    I have an intermittent Bose audio problem. It goes off periodically, displays E22 code. Engine does not go off, lights are not dimmed, just radio cuts off. I did go through a bad ground problem a year or two ago, cleaned the ground (thanks, forum)and that fixed the dimmed lights and engine cutting off. Radio was going to lock with engine cut off at that time.
    This problem is different.
    After going through a cut off and E22 error display, the radio comes back without going to locked mode. This audio error comes on even when idling under red light, so that eliminated go over the bump/ bad connection theory
    Does anybody know what that E22 is and what the problem might be? It progressively happens more often.
    Hitting the dashboard near the radio to produce some shock did not make the system cut off.
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    Sorry to hear of your issues. I alway dread that kind of stuff but so far I am ok.

    I just passed 110K kms and no issues since my battery last fall. I am having a check over of the car done this month before winter. I also want to get some OEM blade replacements.
  • dirkworkdirkwork Member Posts: 210
    We're enjoying our used 2000 GLS with 99k on it. Wife loves the heated seats, and the powertrain is soo smooth and powerful, clearly one of the best GM has ever made. And on the highway even going 80 we can get 30mpg. I'll keep this one until it really craps out. Dad is amazed mine doesn't use any oil hardly but his northstar caddy uses a quart every 2500 miles. So of course I rub it in.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Don't rub it in too much dirkwork.
  • ketchketch Member Posts: 217
    Still loving my 2000 GL, now exactly 7 years old, 48k miles and immaculate. Still have to go to the Caddy dealer for an oil change though, as none of the quick change places carry the cartridge type. Anyone else run into this?

    True story: told on the phone by Jiffy whatever that they have the filter. I head over the next Sat. They realize the book is wrong, showing the 3800 engine typical filter only. I tell them the 2002 Intrigue about to be pulled in next to me won't do either, as it has the same Shortstar engine and associated filter. The guys doesn't believe me until they open the hood. They pull him out and tell the customer they cannot do his car. When I lived in Chicago, a few non-dealer places could do the change, but not so since moving to Vegas 4 years ago. :cry:
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    the Jiffy Lube in my area carries it but charges you $5 extra. Walmart pulls the Fram filter off the shelf and charges you the difference between the standard filter and the Fram filter.

    Valvoline carries the cartridge and does not charge you extra. Same with Monroe.
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Member Posts: 92
    Autozone carries the STP brand of the filter for about $4.19. Walmart here only has the extra-guard version, at about $10 each.

    My 2001 GLS is probably the easiest oil change I've done. The oil filter is easily removed using an oil-filter wrench on the filter cap that threads up into the pan. You can do the filter change first without getting drenched with oil (only a little bit will drip down). The drain plug faces the front of the car, and is easily found and accessed. Being 6'6" (the extra front legroom -- 42.4 in -- is a main reason i bought the car :D ), I can reach the drain plug and the filter cap without jacking up the car. To me, the less time the car is up on jack stands, the better.

    The good thing about doing the oil change is that I noticed tear wear on the inner tread on both front tires :( . My mechanic blamed it on alignment issues, and would not rotate them to the reat, saying the tires needed to be replaced. The wear is not very much (no belts showing and not much of a smooth area). Anyone else had this? My brother has 2 intrigues and has seen wheel bearings fail and cause this.
  • bold_1bold_1 Member Posts: 31
    Im a student, senior in high school, and have always wanted an intrigue because (1) Oldsmobile is not made anymore, (2) Other than the Aurora, I think this is one of GM's flagship sedans. I found one in excellent condition. One owner, lady owned and only 84k (1999 GL). Only concern I have with my vehicle is the brakes. Im getting the squeaking like the pads need to be changed, I checked the pads on the front and they were fine, didn't check the back though. Any advice would be helpful! :D
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    If the brake pads are fine, it could be a "hot spot" on the rotors. I had that earlier this year. It wore itself away. Before you buy the Intrigue, read this board very carefully for some very common issues. Also have a mechanic look over the car first. He/She will be able to pick up on any problem areas.

    How much is she looking to sell the Intrigue for?
  • jjpowell2jjpowell2 Member Posts: 91
    I'd make sure to get a printout from a GM dealer of past repairs. They can pull it from the VIN number but it will only be work done at a GM shop. Whoever bought ours would have gotten a 4 page report!! So sharp outside but all-lemon inside. :lemon:
  • cneadingcneading Member Posts: 3
    Our intigue acts like it hits a little bump, then both lights come on and the car steers harder. If you shut off the car and restart it, the lights go off and the car steers normal. Any ideas?
    Thanks, cneading
  • cneadingcneading Member Posts: 3
    Our inside mirror of our 2000 Intrigue, goes nuts. Sometimes it displays direction, or weird numbers and goes blank sometimes. Any ideas.
    Thanks, cneading
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    Almost all the Chev dealers in Canada used to be Olds dealers and hence, they all carry Olds filters. Never have a problem at the local Jiffy Lube either. I guess it depends on the area.

    I am just past 110K kms on my '00, 7 year mark in March. Just changed my rear pads for the first time, amazing. Starting to sniff out GMs new offerings for a replacement in late 07 or early 08. The Saturn Aura XR, 08 Malibu LTZ and Impala LTZ are all in the running. Might even consider an Impala SS if I can swing it $$. I generally find 8 years is the sweet spot for resale.
  • rop42785rop42785 Member Posts: 4
    When I start my 2002 intrigue cold the engine races for about 30 seconds and then drops to normal idle. Any ideas on what can cause this?
  • indrgbindrgb Member Posts: 115
    It's called the secondary air pump. It's an emission control device used on some later model cars that pumps air into the exhaust manifold to lower the emissions on start-up. Once the engine begins to warm up, the system is no longer needed. It consists of a large electric pump, valves, and a lot of plumbing. If there is a problem with the system, it will turn on the service engine soon light. I had a problem with mine several months ago and the SES came on. The Chevy dealer I took it to misdiagnosed it the first time, but eventually found a leaky valve that needed to be replaced.

    When you say the engine races, is it to about 1500 RPM? Then it lowers a little when the pump shuts off? If yes, this is what it's supposed to do. (I'm just guessing at the RPM)
  • brobertsbroberts Member Posts: 2
    Hi Erwhat,

    I have the same leaking problem on a '98. Can provide more details on the fix, such as where to get the gasket, etc. I've had over two inches of water on the passenger side during heavy rains, and it's raining now so expect I'll have some water today.
  • ketchketch Member Posts: 217
    vanman, how many miles is 100K KMS? Recently turned 48K and change in miles on my '00 (7 years); I hope to keep it (its also immaculate mostly) for a awhile longer. I hope to get at least 70-80k or so miles out of it, which puts me at when its about 10-12 years old at least.
  • gordonwdgordonwd Member Posts: 337
    We've got a 2000 Intrigue that we'll be selling in the next few months, but it's been so long that I sold a car like this that I have no idea how to go about it these days. It's in very good condition with only a little over 50K miles, so I would think that there's a buyer out there if I can only find them.

    Is there a leading site for listing used cars? I wouldn't think that anyone would travel very far to buy a car like this, so how do I target local buyers (Detroit area)? Craigslist maybe?

    Any suggestions are welcome!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    The key thing will be to price it right. i would check out places like here on Edmunds, NADA, KBB, etc. and then drop the price by $2000. Remember no matter the mileage, you still have a 7 year old car that has been discontinued.

    As far as listing, newspaper, craigslist (make sure you spell it properly), local car sales magazine, check local newspaper website and of course the "For Sale" sign in the window is never a bad idea.
  • bold_1bold_1 Member Posts: 31
    I have a 99 GL 86k and I have noticed that in the mornings (cold start) that a belt, either timing or serpentine, squeaks. not very loud though. but as the engine warms it goes away. Could this mean that one of the belts is about to go? I dont think its the weather (average 35-55 in Georgia) Any suggestions?
  • evandroevandro Member Posts: 1,108
    Whatever engine your Intrigue has, neither has a timing belt, but a timing chain that should outlast the engine.

    At 86k, you should be at the 2nd serpentine belt. If it's still the 1st one, have it taken a look at.

    HTH
  • bold_1bold_1 Member Posts: 31
    It's funny you said that because I took the trig in for a non related situation and got the free "multi point safety check" and all of a sudden now, the belt dosent squeak at all. Im still going to keep an eye on it and have it checked out...Thanks!
  • evandroevandro Member Posts: 1,108
    Check the inside of the serpentine belt for cracks, tiny or not. If there are any, it's time to replace it.

    Mind you, it shouldn't cost more than $100 including labor... ;)
  • bjp610bjp610 Member Posts: 6
    I recently had the water pump replaced on my 99 Intrigue (3.5l), and it started running warm, as in between 3rd line and hot. I took it back and they bled the cooling system, and it did work for a bit, but now it's running warm again. I think another air pocket worked its way to where the thermostat is, but I don't know what I have to turn to bleed the system again. Anyone know where exactly do I go to and what to open up to bleed the cooling system? Also what damage, if any, am I doing to the engine with this problem? I really don't think it's the coolant/engine getting that hot, but just the air pocket.
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Member Posts: 256
    Still probably has an airlock.

    Ensure coolant level at proper level as per markings on tank. Be careful if engine coolant is hot.

    Easiest to try first is to open the recovery tank cap to relieve pressure and leave it cracked, maybe a couple half turns or so. Drive it around for a while and check it often to make sure your not leaking. Keep opening the cap until there is no pressure build up. No hiss when unscrewing a little more. Keep driving around, give it some revs every once in a while, if it works, you will see your temp gauge drop back to normal level when properly "burped".
    Re tighten the cap after your done, top up the fluid to replace the air. It may take a while and you may see your gauge drop in steps as more air gets vented.

    De-Pressurizing the system makes it easier for the airlock to rise up and out into the tank. Normally on GM's I always have to do this as for some reason after coolant work. They airlock easy and do not vent out easy. Poor design I guess. Although I have not had to do any work on a 3.5L system. Yet. :(

    Good luck
  • bjp610bjp610 Member Posts: 6
    I will give it a try this weekend when we take it out. It's pretty much been just sitting in the driveway since it started doing it again. Only been driving it around town (it's a small town) knowing that it won't get that hot to start worrying. I will post on monday to let you know what happened.
  • bjp610bjp610 Member Posts: 6
    Well I tried it over the weekend, and it may be starting to work. I did notice a drop in the recovery tank, but not a lot, and it was still getting high, but it was really fluxuating. I guess I just need to keep doing it for awhile since the car isn't driven much and see what happens. I may just have to cave in and get a radiator flush and get rid of it that way.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    The bleeder valve for the radiator is on the passenger side facing the engine. It looks like a wing nut (black). I would suggest opening the valve and letting the enigne run for a minute of so. This will ensure all air gets otu of the system. You'll lose coolant but you can simply add to the overflow tank after you shut off the engine.
  • nbnernbner Member Posts: 15
    Refill part of my procedure used and it went well.

    6. VERY IMPORTANT: Open the radiator air bleed valve. The valve is a black
    plastic thing, about 1/2" diameter, with a fin to grab on to. It is located
    at the back of the radiator (the side that faces the engine), very close to
    the top of the radiator, on the passenger side. Since it is black plastic,
    it's a bit hard to see against the black color of the radiator, but it is
    very obvious after you finally see it. You open it by simply turning it
    counter-clockwise until it comes out completely.

    7. Add a 50/50 mixture of Dex-Cool and drinkable water to the system
    through the filling hole in the plastic tank. VERY IMPORTANT: Keep adding
    until the coolant starts pouring out through the radiator air bleed valve.

    8. Close the air bleed valve.

    8. Keep adding coolant mixture until it reaches the FULL COLD mark in the
    plastic tank.

    9. Run the engine. While running the engine, keep adding coolant mixture, as
    needed, to the plastic tank to keep the level up to the FULL COLD MARK.

    10. Watch the temperature gauge, and shut the engine off when it reaches
    normal operating temperature.

    11. Install the tank cap on to the plastic tank.

    12. Run the engine through 3 thermal cycles (this could take a few hours or
    even a few days, depending on how much you drive, since you need to let the
    engine cool down each time), and refill the plastic tank with water to the
    FULL COLD MARK each time after the engine cools if the coolant level has
    dropped.
  • mgrtubamgrtuba Member Posts: 5
    About every 3-4 days my button on the gear shifter sticks and it takes about 3-4 minutes of stomping on the brake and press the button for it to get release. Could this be a sensor with the brake release?
  • bjp610bjp610 Member Posts: 6
    The same thing happened to my sister on her Pontiac Sunbird years ago. In her case the cable that runs between the brakes and gearshift went bad, so it would take several minutes of working it to finally get the cable to move to release the gearshift. It kinda sounds like the same thing.
  • bold_1bold_1 Member Posts: 31
    Im having some serious problems with my climate control syatem. Its automatic, and when i turn the heat on the air compressor comes on, and when it does, it emmits a loud continuous roaring noise. I can only really hear it inside the car not outside. So now i just turn it off and let the heat blow (saves gas anyway). The next issue is, when I turn on the air (75 degrees and below), the drivers side blows continuous heat but the passenger side is ice cold. Does anyone know of any do-it-yourself tips to help this situation. Im a student and don't have a lot of money to put into the trig. It has 89k (1999 GL) and hope it lasts about 200k. Any help would be appreciated. :D
  • bold_1bold_1 Member Posts: 31
    Hello fellow trig owners. I'm having another problem with my car. When I start the engine, when it's warm, it will either stall, or stumble to about 250-500 rpm. If it stalls, the second start up is just fine. Im thinking it may be a fuel filter or ignition issue. Im due for a 90k service in about a month. Any advice would be helpful. :confuse:
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    bold_1: The hot air issue could be a heater control valve problem. My guess is the stalling is ignition related rather then fuel related. Ignition problems are very common in the Intrigue.

    Also check your messages here on My Carspace. I sent you an e-mail.
  • bold_1bold_1 Member Posts: 31
    Turns out, that the problem was the air filter. I took it out (after never changing it myself and being charged at the dealership for services that were not performed) and it was black with clumps. After I replaced it, I got better gas mileage, and more power.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    That's a nice surprise. ONly having to spend $7-$8 to fix a problem. since your air filter was so dirty, you may want to consider cleaning the MAF and the throttle body as well. they sit just downstream of the air filter. YOu can get throttle body cleaner at any parts store for $3. YOu'll need a flat head screw driver to remove the clamps on the hoses. Also disconnect the MAF. It will take you about 20 minutes the first time and 10 minutes the next time you do it.
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    100K KMs is about 63-64K miles. I have almost 110K now so I'm at 68K+. Car is running great still and I want to keep it for another year or two at least.

    Now that I have seen the G8, it temps me. Otherwise the Aura is attractive as is the Fusion and Impala LTZ are also possibilities. In the end who knows. I am heading to the Toronto International Auto Show this weekend so we shall see the state of the sedan market.
  • bjp610bjp610 Member Posts: 6
    Hi everyone,
    Thanks for the suggestions, but the problem wasn't an air pocket in the cooling system. The thermostat had gone bad. I took it to a GM dealership to get it looked at, and the mechanic came back to me and told me that he could not find a problem. The coolant pressure was normal (18 psi), temperature never got over 215, and fan kicked on when it was suppose to. I took him on a drive in the car, and the temperature gage got to the 3rd line, and him and the shop manager decided that the thermostat was going out on me. $240 later and it's all fixed. Thanks again.
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    I had the same issue. Fortunately I had it fixed under warranty. Glad it's all fixed for you.
  • carlk9carlk9 Member Posts: 1
    At all speeds I can hear a low frequency hum that appears to be coming from the front end somewhere. The humming sound changes with wheel speed and not engine speed. Jacking the car up and spinning the wheels by hand doesn't give me the growling noise that a real bad wheel bearing would emit. I have 110,000 miles on the old girl and this is the first problem. Any ideas as to what this could be?
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Member Posts: 92
    First thing I'd do is make sure the wheels were balanced and the alignment straight. How are the tires wearing? I just had my front pair on my 2001 GLS go bad due to alignment issue. First problem in 110K miles, congratulations!!
  • msw13msw13 Member Posts: 51
    Most likely it is one of the hub bearings going south. I just replaced the right front one on my '99 GL, at 110k miles. I bought a used one from a wrecked Regal (34k) for $45 including shipping from car-part.com. I was not about to pay $200 for a new hub. I found Chinese ones for around $110, but decided the used OEM part was the best bet. Only 3 bolts plus the ABS pigtail, and axle nut and its done, (once the caliper and rotor are off). I did mine in a half-hour, but I can turn a wrench! Good luck. It was quiet on the test drive!
  • nbnernbner Member Posts: 15
    I had a similar problem only from the rear.
    Eventually I borrowed several mounted tires and put them on,noise went away. I then went out and bought several new tires. Couldn't see anything wrong with the old tires from a visual but suspect broken belts in them.
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