I would buy another new Intrigue in a second (with an updated interior by now I would think). I will probably keep her for at least another year, it's got lots of life in the tires amd new brakes now so..
Is there more info on the steering shaft problem? I have a 99 Intrigue LX that is making some noise. Could be that? and will the dealer fix it for free? Is it a recall? My car has 132 k on it.
Last November I purchased a pre-owned 2000 Intrigue from a 79 year old woman with 63000 miles. WOW! What a car! I have owned 4 Camaro's 2 Mustangs and 1 Grand national and I do belive this is a better all around vehicle. I have the usual complaints of Oil consumption, Ignition problem, and occasionally the trans shifts rough (corrected by turning off ignition for 1-2 mins). But my question is about a slight exhaust tick coming from the engine. It sounds like a exhaust manifold, EGR valve, or something. Has anyone experienced this sound? What could be causing this noise? Thanks Wayne
:confuse: Does anyone know if a performance chip is available for the 3.5L Intrigue engine & if it would be a good investment(power increase vs price)?
Should i leave it as is, or buy an after market one (any links?), the dealer wants $250 cdn$ for it!
80,000 km and going fine, though i have this mysterious noise from the front end lately, it sounded as though you are sitting on an old sofa when i turn the steering wheel.
I filled up today and I couldn't believe it. 394 miles, needed 13.5 gallons of gas. 29.1 MPG!!!! BTW I have 141,000 miles on my 2000 Intrigue. I drive 90 miles every day and average about 75 mph.
What is the exact name for the air conditioner knob, speed control. I have try to search for "air conitioner knob, speed control, speed control knob, blower speed knob" and several other but nothing has show up. My child broke the a/c fan knob, or whatever it's called, and I now have to carry a pair of pliers in the car to control the fan. Please help
I bet if I slowed down I could get over 30 mpg as well. My commute is changing in 2 weeks. I go from interstate travel to 2 lane highway travel (45-50 mph). Should be interesting how my gas mileage is affected.
I don't think i need one. Apparently some people actually had it removed so the car wouldn't understeer. So far i have not experienced any sway going straight or turning corners, may be i am too civilized? I have more concerns about stopping at high speed, the car tends to wobble; i was told i need new rotors; they don't like to machine them these days.
I finally changed the engine oil myself yesterday.
I used an oil filter wrench on the canister without much difficulty. But instead of draining the oil from beneath, I used a manual pump through the dipstick, which is much neater.
After screwing the canister back in, however, I wasn't sure if it was installed properly. I thought that before I had it removed it was flush with the oil pan, but then it was sticking about 1/2" out. Just on be on the safe side, I paid to change the oil at a lube shop. But I looked under the car when I got to work and it was still sticking out. I guess it's the price to learn to do it properly.
In the end, I took about 3h to change the oil on 3 cars, including having to go to the auto-parts store to return an oil filter.
On a side note, I couldn't use the pump on my Bonneville with the 3.8 V6 engine, for I couldn't get the hose through the dipstick all the way into the oil. And it does take a while to get used to sliding under a car...
The oil filter plug should be pretty much flush with the oil pan. Are you sure you got the right filter element? Sounds like it is too long and won't allow the plug to screw in all the way. Or perhaps the filter element is not seated properly on the plug. There is an o-ring seal on the plug and sounds like it's screwed in far enough to engage the o-ring, but I would be worried about leaking under high pressure. If I were you, I would first verify that the correct filter is being used and then drain the oil and double-check the filter. The oil change place may not have even touched the filter plug. They are notorious for just ignoring things that are unfamiliar.
I'm 6'5" with long arms and can reach the plug and filter from the front of the car without jacking it up. Try from the front, using a socket wrench on the oil filter wrench and see if you can reach it. You gotta slide under the front spoiler a bit, but it sure beats jacking it up and risking it falling on you. I changed my two intrigues in less than an hour, one after the other, this way.
I'm also 6'5" and although I can reach the canister cap, I cannot inspect it up close. Do you have any tip about placing the filter in the canister and screwing it in?
I don't like the idea of getting under a car on jacks either, but I was thinking about something else. Actually, I replaced the oil of my Bonneville by parking it with the wheels of one side on the curb and I'll be doing the same with my Intrigue tomorrow. As I use a pump to drain the oil through the dipstick, it's easy to pour it back after I check why the canister is sticking out about 1/2", even though it's tightly screwed in.
I did notice that the filter fits onto a support in the canister, but how about when the canister and filter are inserted back into the engine, is there any support for the filter that's tricky to find then?
I went under the car again today and before draining the oil I tried to tighten the canister with my hand, but it wouldn't go any further. Then I used the oil filter wrench to tighten it and it easily turned a little.
Now the canister is about just 1/8" sticking beyond the oil pan, which is perhaps fine.
Using a mirror to inspect how the canister sits on the engine, I was surprised to find out that the canister itself is not flush with the engine, but is burrowed in it.
IF the filter is fully seated in the canister, you won't have any problems. Also it takes a lot of turns to install that canister. Not much of a chance of leaking from the canister.
Returning from a long trip, the car suddenly sounded as if an airplane was landing nearby! If I shift to neutral and coast, noise is still there. I looked at the tires (all in good shape) and suspension but could not see anything. Could this be a bad wheel bearing, steering shaft, etc.? Very puzzling. Noise appears as loud buzz or hum when I hit just 5-10 mph.
Is sound only made when car is moving? It sounds like that is what you are saying. The wheel bearings do go bad. Any idea where the sound is coming from? Having someone else drive along side or ride a bike alongside the car could help.
Yes, the car makes that "airplane" noise only when rolling, even when I shift into neutral and I am coasting. I thought the sound was from the right front side, but I really cannot tell. The brakes were done recently, and I would assume they checked the bearings at that time.
If there is anything else I should check, or if you've had this problem, let me know.
The "bearings" are in the wheel hub assembly and is all one piece. These are known to go bad on the Intrigue (and other mid size cars). From what I have read and heard, they are very easy to replace. There are a bunch on sale on Ebay. Make sure you get the right year. They re-designed the part for 2001 and 2002.
Every once in a while my car will start to shift hard and have trouble accelerating, then the "service engine soon" light will come on. I was told by someone that unplugging the battery for about 10-20 minutes and plug it back in. after that it will be fine. Does anybody have any idea what is wrong with my car? Is it a Tranny problem? Problem with the chip? battery problem? if anyone can help that would be awesome
Disconnecting the battery will reset the SES light, that's for sure. It sounds like the systemis detecting some condition and adjusting something in response. Disconnecting the battery makes it forget the response that it took. Next time the SES light goes on, go to one of the national auto parts stores (Advanced, Autozone, etc) and they will, for no charge, take a diagnostic reader out to your car and give you a report on what the computer code was detected. With no obligation. I've done it twice now, both times for a problem with the secondary air pump. Last July one valve needed replacement; two weeks ago it was the other one. I had that work done at the former Olds (now only Cadillac) dealer. Once you get the diagnostic code, do a google search and you'll likely get some hits.
How much did replacing the bearing assembly set you back? I need to get mine replaced. had a local Monroe muffler dealer quote me $400+ for just the part. Even the manager I was dealing with was stunned by that price and suggested looking elsewhere.
No recalls out there. In last 10 months I've had both the front and rear valves replaced, $400 each (parts + labor) at the dealer on my 2001 GLS. So far the 2001 GX which I bought for my 16-yr-old son in March has not complained, but I hope that previous owner got stuck with the bill (has 70K+ miles). My brother's 2001 GLS also had a valve go bad. I think the only consequence of the problem is a bit poorer fuel economy and maybe some lost acceleration. And a little bot dirtier exhaust on startup, from what I gathered about what the pump does (pumps air into the cat converter when converter is not yet hot enough).
I read a message on some other site about a guy saying there was a recall for the shield that goes on the air pump. something about water getting into the pump. and he had the dealer replace the pump & put the shield at no cost.(any idea if this is true?)i have a 2002 intrigue with the SES lite on.
I had read that message last yeat, but the one I read was not for an intrigue, and did not sound like the same setup. Also, it might have been a Tech Service Bulletin (TSB) and not a recall. If it mentioned it was a recall, then I don't think it was for an Intrigue (maybe a Blazer ).
Subject: Check Engine Light On, DTC P0410 Set, Water in AIR Pump (Replace AIR Pump, Install New Hose and Shield)
Condition
Some owners may comment on the check engine light being illuminated. Upon investigation, the technician may find a DTC P0410 indicating that there is a concern in the secondary air injection system. When removing the air pump, the technician may also note evidence of water intrusion in the secondary air injection pump.
Cause
Water may have collected in the AIR pump and frozen or corroded the pump.
Correction
Replace the Secondary Air Injection Pump and install a new hose, shield and cleaner
I don't have my service manuals anymore for the Intrigue, but traditionally you need a spring compressor in order to separate the strut from the coil spring. I removed the front stuts from my Intrigue and had PepBoys install new struts on the springs (I purchased the struts online, not from PepBoys) and then I re-installed the struts myself and had an alignment performed by a trusted shop. I didn't ever change the rear struts on my Intrigue (traded it off this past March). It is possible that the strut can be changed without decompressing the spring; not sure.
I've had both valves on mine replaced in the last year. Each time I drove with it for a month. Fuel economy went down a little. I think the only other issue would be exhaust pollutants. But I'll let others with more technical background at their inputs.
Comments
Could be that? and will the dealer fix it for free? Is it a recall? My car has 132 k on it.
The first clue as to what is causing this problem is that the red security light in the dash will flash when the key is turned to start the car.
About 10-15 minutes later the car will start as if there is nothing wrong. Is there anything that can be done to prevent this from happening?
Thanks.
Thanks
Wayne
Where can they be purchased?
Should i leave it as is, or buy an after market one (any links?), the dealer wants $250 cdn$ for it!
80,000 km and going fine, though i have this mysterious noise from the front end lately, it sounded as though you are sitting on an old sofa when i turn the steering wheel.
Sure, it's used, but so is every other part that is on your 80000km car.
Apparently some people actually had it removed so the car wouldn't understeer.
So far i have not experienced any sway going straight or turning corners, may be i am too civilized?
I have more concerns about stopping at high speed, the car tends to wobble; i was told i need new rotors; they don't like to machine them these days.
I really like the performance of my Intrigue GL 2000 but I was wondering if I could improve the acceleration with some performance parts. I found a site with several parts: an "Oxygen Sensor Power Performance Chip" -> http://www.autodirectsave.com/prod/Tuning_Performance/Performance_Parts/Performance_Chips/Oxygen_Sensor_POWER_Performance_CHIP/17964, a "Surge performance chip" -> http://www.autodirectsave.com/prod/Custom/Performance_Parts/Performance_Chips/Surge_Performance_Chip/17558. The first claims to be adding 15-25 HP and the last one claim 35 HP. Could this be really working? They also have 2 superchargers (http://www.autodirectsave.com/product/list/2000/Oldsmobile/Intrigue/Performance_Parts/Superchargers ).
I also heard that changing the air filter could improve performance and fuel economy.
Knowing the intrigue 2000 is doing 0-60 mph in 8.0 seconds, how much faster could I expect?
Does any of these modifications:
-Oxygen Chip
- Surge performance chip
- Supercharger
- Air filter
worth it?
Thank you,
Sylvain
I used an oil filter wrench on the canister without much difficulty. But instead of draining the oil from beneath, I used a manual pump through the dipstick, which is much neater.
After screwing the canister back in, however, I wasn't sure if it was installed properly. I thought that before I had it removed it was flush with the oil pan, but then it was sticking about 1/2" out. Just on be on the safe side, I paid to change the oil at a lube shop. But I looked under the car when I got to work and it was still sticking out.
In the end, I took about 3h to change the oil on 3 cars, including having to go to the auto-parts store to return an oil filter.
On a side note, I couldn't use the pump on my Bonneville with the 3.8 V6 engine, for I couldn't get the hose through the dipstick all the way into the oil.
That's one of the disadvantages of not being able to be fully under the car. I could definitely use extra 4" of clearance...
I don't like the idea of getting under a car on jacks either, but I was thinking about something else. Actually, I replaced the oil of my Bonneville by parking it with the wheels of one side on the curb and I'll be doing the same with my Intrigue tomorrow. As I use a pump to drain the oil through the dipstick, it's easy to pour it back after I check why the canister is sticking out about 1/2", even though it's tightly screwed in.
Thanks.
Try ramps. Much safer and they even make solid plastic ones now.
TIA
Now the canister is about just 1/8" sticking beyond the oil pan, which is perhaps fine.
Using a mirror to inspect how the canister sits on the engine, I was surprised to find out that the canister itself is not flush with the engine, but is burrowed in it.
At least I'm now more tranquil about it.
If there is anything else I should check, or if you've had this problem, let me know.
Thanks!
Long live the Intrigues that are left on the road. Great vehicle.
Date: May 27, 2004
Subject:
Check Engine Light On, DTC P0410 Set, Water in AIR Pump (Replace AIR Pump, Install New Hose and Shield)
Condition
Some owners may comment on the check engine light being illuminated. Upon investigation, the technician may find a DTC P0410 indicating that there is a concern in the secondary air injection system. When removing the air pump, the technician may also note evidence of water intrusion in the secondary air injection pump.
Cause
Water may have collected in the AIR pump and frozen or corroded the pump.
Correction
Replace the Secondary Air Injection Pump and install a new hose, shield and cleaner
Chad
Chad
how long can i drive with this problem,any idea? my SES lite is on. can i make it worse by keep driving it?
TIA