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Tried the carsdirect.com (great site) and it was very close. My price was about $53 less than the cars direct (invoice) price. The lease option still looks higher though. Must be because of the 1.9% financing. If I could afford the payments than I'd go with their 0.0% for 48 months, but thy're slightly higher.
Next question is which color to choose. Dealership has 2 to choose from with identical features. One is the sterling silver metallic w/ graphite interior, the other is white w/graphite interior. Does the white get too dirty, too fast? Silver would seem to hide the dirt better.
Thanks for your input,
si88
AS for color, if you are set on the chrome wheels, get the white one. I personally don't like the chrome wheels with the Sterling Silver Metallic color. I have a Olympic Edition 01 GS which is Sterling Sliver without the chrome wheels and really like both the car and the color.
As for the price...I used to sell cars, and let me tell you, the dealer is ALWAYS holding something back in the price. You should ALWAYS try for another $500-800 off of the quoted price. Dealers make more money than the public realizes. That is why I am not in that business any more...I did not like taking advantage of buyers, and that is exactly what 90% of dealers do.
Good luck!!!
Otherwise, you become just as bad (if not worse) then the seller. It's all about making the economy go round and round and round and..
So the deal is invoice price less incentives and rebates and look into taking part or all of their holdback of 2-3% as well. They need to unload cars.
si88, the silver/graphite sounds like a whole lot of grey shades going on. If you're into monochrome, go for it. The white looks good with that silver lower trim, but I don't like the all-white, and depending on where you drive, the areas behind the wheels will always look dirty.
Leo
I deal with "salescum" (as I affectionately call them) on a daily basis with high ticket item$. No matter how I feel about them personally or the product they are trying to sell me, I realize that their motivation for the sale is to put food in their mouths. As long as *I* know I have made a fair and honorable transaction, I consider it a good deal. After all, I'd be a fool to buy ANYTHING without properly investigating what I'm spending my hard-earned dollars on. If someone is made a fool of by a sales transaction, 98% of the time it is the buyers fault for not doing the proper research.
Getting back to the sale of the '01 GS, I though it was a fair price given the recent research *I* did on a purchase of a '00 GS. As for ARMTDM buying a '00 GS for $23K 6 months after the model year close out, that's an exceptional price....even though it took a few days/couple weeks from the time he tended his offer until it was accepted. For my loaded GS in Sterling Silver (minus heated seats), taking into account a Buick rebate and other incentives (excluding GM dollars), I paid $23,700 back in December, 2000. The car had 21 miles on it with a manufacturing date of June 2000.
Leo
I know that the dealer needs to be able to pay his bills, but I have yet to see any who are hurting. Maybe I am just too nice of a guy to be able to make someone pay more for something than they really need to. That is probably why I am not in the business any more. You really need to watch yourself on used cars too....while I was there one of the salespeople sold a used Saturn at a $4000, yes $4000 gross. The selling price was only a little over $12000. I felt like I was going to be sick. I felt so bad for the young couple who were buying it. I knew that they could barely afford the car anyway. Afterwards, the managers and the owners were all sitting around laughing about it like crazy. I felt like smacking them all. This just goes to show you....the majority of those in the car business are truly scumbags!!
PLEASE ADVISE!!!
It has been two weeks since having owned my 2001 GS. I got it at CarMax for $20,598 with 12,390 miles on it. I have only really two complaints, the Goodyear tires that they put on this car. The just don't grip real well. Does anyone have suggestions on a tire that handles well, and is good in the rain and snow?? I had General Tires on my last car and I didn't have any problems. I could take off like a rabbit in the snow and rain. Of course my last car didn't a SC3800 in it either!! I had the old 3.1 V6 in my Lumina, big difference in motors!! WOW. Filling up with 93 octane gas kind of hurts, especially at 2.30 a gallon here in the suburbs of Chicago. I knew that going in buying the car, but what can you do. Thank goodness for the Amaco card....
I am happy with my selection and I haven't got a lot of grief for buying a Buick from the people at work, considering I will be 28 in June. Most of them drive imports anyway. Yuck.. My grandfather has owned a Buick from 1951 until he passed away in 1998. And he never had any problems. The best thing from my standpoint is dusting these young guys in there Honda's with the big mufflers that sound like a souped up lawnmower!! It is funny to see there face when I dust there butt's from a light!!
Now the real test is the roadtrip back to Iowa to see how it does on the highway. I am getting like 19.3 mpg now just back and forth to work, which is not too bad. Considering a co-worker has her son's Grand Prix and the computer in the center says 15.9 mpg.
The only thing I would change overall would be the Goodyears...
Bought my 2000 GS last fall - it was October 6, if I remember it right - and put only 6.5k on the car. Including the 1000 mile trip to Niagara Falls two weeks after buying. I live in Connecticut.
The Goodyear Eagle LS tires were OK through the winter. It was rather wet, and there was a lot of snow too for New England. But, of course, the tires were absolutely new. Have no idea how they will behave after another 10-20k miles. Read several times, that the tires live only 20k or so on Regal.
Any case, I already decided that the next tires will be Firehawk SH-30. Installed them on my other car, a 98 Malibu, and like them very much. Absolutely outstanding wet cornering / traction, and excellent dry one. The snow traction is only very good, but this is less important in our places.
Someone on the Intrigue forum put on AquaTread III's and have had good success.
The GS went out to Nelson Ledges a few weeks ago. I turned about fifteen or twenty laps in three five to seven lap sessions. I didn't want to break it; it's primary transportation and besides, that's what my buddy's 911 is for... Needless to say, it was the only Regal there but the company was good: a C4S, a 325is, the 911, a Supra Turbo, '72 2002 tii, '73 911 RS, a '95 Impala SS (six one laps and fast around the track given its aircraft carrieresque size) and a brand spankin' new WRX. (The WRX is entered in the One Lap this year. It was getting shaken out...)
Also needless to say: understeer was the name of the game though the brakes endured much better than expected. As a matter of fact, I think one of them no longer needs turning. I forgot to disable the traction control during the first session so after a lap or two, it did so on its own. It returned after cooling down for a half-hour. I experimented with several tire pressures but due to concerns for the street-life of the tires, ran 40/36 most of the day on the Z-Rated Dunlop SP5000's, which are fantastic, BTW.
The car hit about 101 to 102 on the back straight before my survival instict (and concern for the well-being of the Regal) kicked in and required that I brake for the right-hand kink followed by the hard left. It was fun and I just wanted to see how the car did when pushed to the limit. Understeer and a little instability under braking but, for as soft as it is, competent. My buddy, following in the 911 indicated that the body roll, from the outside, wasn't as bad as he would have expected and that once I could get my foot in it coming out of the corner, it pulled strongly. It was way outclassed but performs better than most expect.
My wife just drove the car across the state for Mother's Day and averaged over 29 mpg. Can't beat that with a stick...
I'm still kicking around upgrades. Mecham seems to offer the only ECU that works with the Regal and it's temporarily unavailable. In speaking with them about the ECU, exhaust and pulley upgrades were also discussed which yeilded some items of interest. If anyone's interested in what I've learned, email me.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/hpas.jsp
Michelin Pilot XGT H4 and Firestone Firehawk SH-30 are very close in user satisfaction, and both are substantially better than other tires in the same All-season Performance category. Pilot have an edge in snow, SH-30 in rain.
I have a reason to believe that the SH-30 tires have a good grip on ice. It happened several times the last winter that I almost could not walk on icy parking lots, but did not feel any problem while driving. Though, I still believe that ice is treacherous and that it is dangerous to drive on ice with any tires.
My replacement selection is most likely going to be Yoko AVS Sport from here:
DiscountTire
On winter tires (don't need em in Texas), Car and Driver reviewed some in an edition several months back - can probably find the article on their website.
Either 2001 model, or 2000 GS. I saw them only from front. Two of these Regal bear MA license plates, the third the NY plate of new design. All the three have 16-inch wheels, no sunroof. One is silver, the second is Burgundy (the same color as the mine), and the third is of a very nice dark-silver color. I believe, the color is named "bronze must".
Very unusual view. Never see three new Regal in row even on a dealer lot.
Called the service adviser this afternoon. He told me they decided to replace the whole dash pad. Will receive the detail tomorrow.
Dash pad. Hm. Never hear the wording. It is interesting, what is it?
Any thoughts on the backfire problem?
Thanks for any help.
There is a electrical switch inside the steering column, under the steering wheel. Everything controlled by the stalk - turn signals, high beam, washer, cruise control - is wired through the switch. A complicated part, and anything complicated is not reliable almost by definition.
Dealer replaced the switch under warranty and the problem gone. A half-day work.
There was one complication, though: the part is expensive, and dealer had to order it. It makes sense to double-verify he received it already when appointed. My car was sitting in the shop through the weekend, with disassembled steering, waiting for the switch delivery expected Friday afternoon.
2. The brake rotor warping is not covered by warranty.
Though, the early warping usually means either manufacturing defect, or the wheel lugs were tighten too strong. There was a posting on one of the Edmunds board, that GM have a policy to replace the rotors under warranty provided tire rotation was performed at dealership only. There is a TSB on the subject.
No luck if you rotated the tires at independent mechanic.
In my experience (with other car, 98 Chevrolet Malibu), the warped rotors are not a safety item. They are probably even somewhat more efficient than the good ones. The problem is the rotors are eating the pad, and wore them out early.
I bought the car used, with 15k miles. The rotors were already warped, but then I did not know the symptoms. Had to replace the brakes at 22 or 23k, when the pads wore to metal.
Would I have to buy myself the replacement rotors for GS now, I'd probably switch to more efficient, premium aftermarket parts. Like these:
http://www.motorsports.westserver.net/cgi-bin/miva?Merchant2/merchant.mv+Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MP&Product_Code=SSR&Category_Code=BHC
they offer also a full package:
http://www.motorsports.westserver.net/cgi-bin/miva?Merchant2/merchant.mv+Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MP&Product_Code=SSR_FULL&Category_Code=BHC
but the rear rotors are not so important as the front ones.
The final diagnosis: "Warped dash panel. Replaced same".
I am a proud owner of a 2000 Regal GSE fully loaded. I love the car and believe, as many of you do, that it is an exceptional value compared to the competitors.
I recently had the misfortune to badly scratch two of the Chrome WHeel Lugnut covers (the cap in the center of the wheel that pops right off). I heard from someone local that my dealer may charge as much as $45 for one.
Does anyone know of a place on the web where i can order this piece? I have checked all over and only found the ability to buy the complete Chrome Wheel, not the lugnut cover.
THanks,
John
Again, thanks.
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/
If you have the part number you can get quote at dealer cost !!. If you don't have the part number a quick e-mail will get you a quote. This place is great I bought several items from them. You have to watch shipping but all in all at great web site. Best find GM locking gas cap list for $25.00 got it from gmpartsdirect for $7.95
Allen
The 98 Malibu is listed, but part are not available. I looked for brake rotors, pads and wipers - just to check.
I have not posted here in a long time. My plans for getting the supercharged Regal sort of went by the wayside- by "accident"! I ended up buying an Acura CL Type S- 260HP! I absolutely love the car! I think it's the best car I have ever owned- especially compared to the Chrysler 300M I had before this!
To see pics of the new car, just click on my name above. All the links are there. Photopoint is the best site to see them all.
Maybe someday I'll meet up with you at Louie's Lunch parking lot! Look for the RED Acura! ;-))
fastdriver
You bought a very nice car, and very fast one! And are babying it with Zaino, as I can see. Congratulations again!
Would like to meet you. Funny thing, but I work for 5 years across the street from the Louie's Lunch, and still never was here.
I forgot I posted here. Been in that acura-cl.com group so much lately.
Me either and I've lived here all my life!! LOL.... Only about 2 people can fit in there at a time- right? ;-))
Do you get out of work at 5? I can run by today, but I have to wash the Acura! ;-))
fastdriver
I am 5"8', 50 year old, overweight, dark balding hairs, in glasses. Light color clothes.
LOL... Look for the shiny CL! See you about 5!
fastdriver
http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2001-05-17-jdpower.htm
Thanks,
L8_Apex
Host
Sedans Message Board
Thanks
My question for anyone in the know is...how does the car know the tires were rotated? As of last week, front and rear tires were at 32 psi. So...after the rotation and with all things once again being equal, how does the car know the tires were rotated?