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Buick Regal



  • Well the old girl has 150k on her now (99 LS) and I'm getting some noise up front. Sounds like the wheel bearings are going. Anyone have any experience with changing these, like how much will it set me back? Thanks.
  • jbmjbm Posts: 29
    Fellow 1998+ Regal GS owners:

    My factory Goodyear Eagle LS tires (which have a reputation of being just mediocre tires) are still going strong (tread-wise) at almost 50,000 miles on my 2002 Regal GS. But I suspect the road noise and handling could be much better with a better set of tires.

    For those of you who replaced your Eagle LS tires, what did you replace them with and what did you notice in terms of difference in noise, handling and wear? If you could include the size of your replacement tires, that would be helpful too.

  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    A good alterative...and I have these...Is the Falken Zeix 512's...Size 235/55 x 16...
    Excellent tire and very reasonably priced...Much better handling than the Goodyears...
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    My wife and I drive mostly in town, and OEM tires wore out at about 33k miles. 3/32-4/32 of tread was left on old tires, and they became unsafe. 2000 Regal GS.

    We live in Southern CT, suburb of New Haven. Road pavements are not good in our town. Like pavements in Moscow, Soviet Union, in end of 1980-th. Except CT is hilly and roads are winding and in some places lean side to side. Cannot imagine the OEM tires to serve 50k miles on our roads.

    I replaced OEM tires with Bridgestone Potenza 950. They hold road substantially better - either dry, wet, or in downpour. I can compare, because our other car is 2004 Regal GS with the same OEM tires, about the same mileage on tires, and I often switch cars.

    The new tires are bad in wet snow, however. We stick once, could not go uphill from full stop. Had to wait until town trucks spread sand.
  • sigfigssigfigs Posts: 6
    It has been a while since I have posted here, but I thought I would give an update on my '99 Regal GS. I purchased the car new in August 1999.
    233,450 miles to date

    oil changes with Penzoil 10w30 every 5,000 miles (now use the High Mileage variety), I lose about qt between changes now

    checked the SC oil every 30K and add as needed (never really needed much)
    I have never completely changed this oil.

    changed plugs and wires at 100K and 200K, also replace both serpentine belts at these times

    replaced tranny filter every 45K

    I use a permanent K&N filter (the stock replacement) clean every 20K

    I replaced the OEM Goodyear LS tires when they wore out with Yokohama Avid Touring tires (I live in Louisiana and have NO snow), I have replaced three sets of these Yokohama tires, usually get about 60K on them.

    Problems I have had:
    Had to replace the A/C control display after about two years, I bought the module from and replaced it myself.

    Replaced pwr sterring pump @ 150K

    Replace fuel pump @ 160K

    Have had to replace plastic idler pulley on SC twice, along with new belts.

    Driver Information Display went out, sent instrument cluster to for repair, about $140.

    About six months ago I had to have the intake manifold lower gasket replaced and the air flow mass sensor, $800

    Replaced the AC compressor, condensor, & accumulator @ 200K, bought the parts @

    Today I just picked up the car from the transmission shop having the tranny rebuilt.
    Mechanic told me that after 233K miles it had just worn out, I just smiled.

    I have loved this car for six years, driven through nearly every state, and look forward to another 100K.

    Feel free to comment or ask any other questions.
  • jbmjbm Posts: 29

    As a 2002 Regal GS owner (with a comparably measly 50K miles) :blush: , I have to say congratulations, and thanks for the info! wow that would be great if mine held up that long.

  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    I replaced the OEM Goodyear LS on my '00 GS with same size Yokohamas (Avid). Theses tires are much quieter at highway speed. I replaced the tires at 30,000 and now at 45,000, the tires look as if they have plenty of treadwear left. If there is a con, I think traction on cornering as a bit btter on the Goodyears. Then again, my days of taking corners at 40MPH are looong gone. You should go to link title and do some research.
  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    I have an AC Delco 12 disc changer in the trunk of my 2000 GS. It was designed to work with the Monsoon. If you have OnStar, the changer will not work (has something to do with Buick having two different monsoon systems - cosmetically they look the same but the rear of the unit is different if you have OnStar).

    I got it directly from a Buick dealer. They should have the part number
  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    I had the same problem last summer. The simple aswer may be to...clean your key! That's right...take a damp cloth and clean your key. When the Buick rep suggested I do this, I thought he was a sandwich short of a picnic basket. There is a computer chip (or something like a chip) embedded in the key that can give the car's computer a false reading if its dirty. When the key is dirty, sometimes my car will not crank, other times it will light up like a xmas tree and other times the car starts up as it should. Try a damp warm cloth, clean the key, dry it off with another cloth and hopefully this will solve the problem.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,033
    Resistor chip in key. If your key has the 2 mm by 3 mm black resistor at the end of the the part that goes into the key lock, try cleaning it with a pencil eraser. That will remove scudacrud that builds up. I have occasionally had trouble with putting in the key and the car not starting because of the security check. (Try 3 times to crank when it doesn't and you have to wait 3-4 minutes before you try again. That's a pain, but good security.)

    I carry two sets of keys in my pockets and they pick up lint and crud and occasionally don't make contact.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    I tossed out the Eagles at 28k miles and replaced them with Michelin X-Ones. At the time it was the best tire they made (might still be), so kind of pricey. Very quiet due to harder compound, but excellent handling in all kinds of weather. I've known others to get over 100k miles out of them. :shades:
  • barney5barney5 Posts: 3
    Can anyone tell me where the outside air filter for the AC is located and how to replace it on a 99 Regal?

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,033
    Ichecked your profile and you live in a northern clime. I'm in Ohio where we get some snow.

    My X-ones gave me trouble after 70K only because they had lost a lot of their forward traction on snow ice. The Michelin salesman said it was because much of the siping had been worn past its depth. The lateral traction due to the large circumferential grooves was fine. It was just stopping and starting. They still had 30% of tread depth left.

    I replaced them with Harmony's which were rated on Michelin's site as a 9 for snow traction, which the Sears version was rated 8 (less tread depth) and the Discount Tire's version (Integrity?) was rated 8. They are all on the site even though the Harmony comes up easily.

    I'd recommend wearing one pair more on the front and put the rears with better tread on the front part time for winter and then as you get past 60% wear one summer, put two new tires on the front.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    What "outside air" filter? Cabin air filter that few cars had in 1999, or the common air filter - for air which go into engine intake?

    Any case, first open the hood. The intake air filter is in big black box on the driver side. Cabin filter is under the black plastic panel with a grid of small holes, just under windshield and side wipers. The panel is made of two parts; the cabin filter is under the passenger side half-panel.

    There is a wonderful online manual how to change Chevy Impala cabin filters. It applies as well to other "W" cars by GM, including Buick Regal.
  • barney5barney5 Posts: 3
    Thank you so much!

    It was the "cabin filter" I was looking for. Boy, they hid it well! The Chevy instructions are excellent... I hope the Buick is the same.

    Thanks again.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    Cannot be 100% sure about 99, but I used the instructions when changing cabin filter of my 2000 and 2004 Regals. BTW, the filters are not available at Pep Boys, and OEM filters at dealerships are expensive. I bought even better filters online, but it took some time to find them:

    Click here
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Thanks for the site info. I've been getting cabin air filters at NAPA and have noticed the price going up every year. Still not as expensive as dealer, though. Anyway, the site you provided is a much better value than even NAPA. All the best, Ken.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,033
    I bought cabin air filter last fall from PepBoys Purolator brand for $16 or $19. I forget which. I think the dealer had said about $25 swhen I bought the unit with plastic frame to retrofit my LeSabre. I imagine the Regal has the same filter.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    I had a 3.5" SLP pulley installed on my '98 GS last Friday. The Buick dealer also installed a special device between the IAT sensor and its wiring harness. It's supposed to increase the timing by 1-2 degrees. In another forum, two guys said to be careful using this device, because it could cause serious engine knock, resulting in piston damage. Here's a link to the SLP site, showing the device:

    Does anyone else think this device could cause major engine damage? BTW, the new pulley increased S/C boost by 2 psi (from 8 to 10). I noticed a big difference in acceleration. SLP says gains up to 25 HP are possible with this pulley.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Do you know you need to add timing?...
    Do you have an LS1M or similar device that you can monitor your timing?...
    If the 2 people that mentioned that it 'could' hurt are from they are correct...The cost of replacing pistons can be expensive...and it would probably be the #1 and #3 pistons...
  • 2000gs2000gs Posts: 5

    Was looking for some ideas on what might be wrong. I have a 2000 GS with approx. 44k miles on it. Just recently I started the car to move it out of the garage. Came back to it an hour later and tried to start it. It was turning over but wouldn't start. I then pushed the gas pedal while cranking and it started. As soon as I lifted my foot off the gas pedal it just dies (as if you turned off the car, no ruff idle or anything). Car will not idle and the only way to start it and keep it running is to keep your foot on the gas pedal.

    Any ideas would be appreciated. Could someone also point me in the right direction for pulling the engine codes off thsi model.

  • mwdreammwdream Posts: 91
    2000gs... mine just did the same thing today. I have a 98 GS. It did start and idle fine about an hour later. Keep me posted if you learn anything. Also, yesterday my Security light was on. I cleaned off that black box on my key... so maybe that has something to do with it. I'll try the spare key from now on. Though the security keeps the car from starting right? I'm not sure, but both strange things may be connected.

    Have you noticed in the past when you go to start the engine doesn't kick on or seems to die, but then starts again with another attempt??? I have on occassion.

    I'll keep you posted if I learn of anything else... by the way, add (at a o l) to my user name and you can email me if you wish. Good luck.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Actually, since part of being a vibrant, online community is having the discussions online where everyone can benefit from the questions and answers, we would very much prefer that folks respond to you here ... and that you not ask folks to email you.

  • jay99jay99 Posts: 9
    I bought my car about a year ago and the rear speakers were blown. I decided that it is time to replace them, but I am not sure what will work. I think they are 220 watt speakers, and I have seen some things about monsoon using 2 ohm speakers rather than standard 4 ohm. I am really clueless about this. Does anyone have any experience?

    As a side note, I think it is a great car, I was just a little disappointed to have to replace the transmission at 225k miles. Other than that only routine maintenance was required.
  • 2000gs2000gs Posts: 5
    Follow up to my earlier post. I took the car into the dealership and they told me my Computer failed. Obviously not the whole thing but the part that controls Fuel. Part of the circuit was bad and that is why it still ran but only if I maintained pressure to the Gas Pedal. So they replaced the whole computer because on the 2000 model if something fails within it they just replace the whole thing. The cost of the Computer was $300 (not to bad) but was covered under factory warrranty still. So my cost was $0.

  • 2000gs2000gs Posts: 5
    I had the same problem with my speakers. Don't worry about the Ohms. Just get any 6x9 speakers that you prefer and you should be ok. The amp will have to work a little harder since the originals are a lower Ohm speaker and replacments are usually higher.

    Have had mine in for over a year with no problems. The onlly suggestion I would make is have them installed since the whole rear seat and deck needs to come out. Quite a job and Buick didn't make it easy.

    Go to a small stereo chain and try to stay away from the Bestbuys, etc since they will try to sell you a complete new system after telling you that you can't use normal 6x9's.

  • jay99jay99 Posts: 9
    Thanks, I'll give it a try.

    About the 225k, it should be 125k. Didn't catch that soon enough to fix it.
  • Jack44Jack44 Posts: 221
    Just remember on the Monsoon System...the 6x9 is a subwoofer in the system. It only plays the sub sonic frequencies. Having a 3 way speaker play only the lows is kind of pointless. It'll work though. Probably a bit of a waste of money.

    If you replace if with 4 ohm it will be not be as loud, was not designed for just bass and will not be able to take the power and blow, BOTTOM LINE: will NOT work well, WILL sound like .....
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    Rear view mirror fell off twice from my 2000 Regal GS recently.

    This is my wife's car. I drove it only two times this months. The both times very soon after starting driving, about 1/8 mile from our home or so, I noticed that the mirror is way off adjustment: could see rear seats only. When starting adjusting the mirror felt unusually loose in my hand, very loose. Then it fell from windshield. My wife and I have very close driving positions, and usually I do not need to adjust mirrors, or adjust it very little, not more than on my car.

    This is the big auto dimming mirror with map lamps. After it fell I let it dangle on wires, parked on safe place ASAP, and put it back. The first time I thought it is a freak. However, the problem repeated yesterday, and now I am afraid the mirror will fall off in dangerous situation. Not on rural road near home, but in heavy traffic, in city or on highway.

    The steel mirror base glued to windshield is OK. However, the black plastic part that cover the steel base and holds mirror slips from the base and became loose. Probably under normal driving vibration. Mirror did not fall of by itself, because for this it is necessary to slip the part further up, but points to changing, wrong directions.

    I do not know how the plastic part was originally attached to the steel base, in addition to simply slipped to cover it. Was it glued, or latched, or what. I simply slipped the plastic down, and pushed moderately to wedge it a bit to the steel base. I was afraid to push strong to not break the steel base from windshield. Or break the plastic.

    Any suggestions?

    Thank you so much.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    I would like to add, that GM knows something about the problem and improved mirror attachment in later models.

    Our second car is a 2004 Regal GS. A screw in center of the plastic part fastens it to the steel base. The part will not slide up, and mirror will not fall off.

    I wonder, why there was no recall? Looks as a safety problem to me.
  • barneyeabarneyea Posts: 20
    with the hood open, remove the black plastic grill at the base of the windshield.
    and there it is. (passanger side)
  • jay99jay99 Posts: 9
    I have a 99 and I believe it is the same mirror. I had a problem with the metal part coming unglued. I think it just got too hot. Anyway, when I reglued it on, it slid on and I had no problem after that. Perhaps the plastic is already broken if it keeps falling off?
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    Thank you!

    The plastic does not look broken. Who knows, however...
  • sapansapan Posts: 6
    Hi, guys, I am buying a 2002 regal LS with 33000 miles. dealer asks for $13,500. What do you think? I test drove it and like it very much. Had planned to buy a new car. But since I drove this car, I just don't want to spend more money on a new civic or corolla. Any suggestion and comment is appreciated.
  • jay99jay99 Posts: 9
    My only regrets with buying a regal are:

    1) Bought it with too many miles (112k) I just replaced the tranny which was expensive.
    2)Not the best gas mileage. I get about 17-18 mpg around town which gets expensive with gas going up.
    3)I am not sure if it is the same with the LS, but the GS generally has more expensive parts to replace if anything goes bad.

    Looks like you won't have to worry about #1, and if you aren't too worried about gas, I would say the Regal is an excellent car.

    I looked up the average retail price at and it says it should be around $12,125. I personally got my car for the average trade in, and felt that I got a pretty good deal. For the 2002 LS that would be around $10,075. Just thought I would throw in some numbers so you know where you should or could negotiate to.
  • jbmjbm Posts: 29
    I think $13500 is too high; that should be about the average retail for a 2002 Regal *GS* with 33000 miles. Check Kelley Blue Book and to calculate, I think you should be able to buy that for at least $1500 less.

  • david95david95 Posts: 1
    I've blown the rear speakers in my Regal and I have heard that you have to take the whole back seat and rear panel out to replace. Is this true? Could someone explain please?


  • mithamitha Posts: 1
    Does anyone have a link, or first-hand knowledge, of the type of amp that is used in the 98 GS? Specifically, how many channels, RMS, etc.
  • 2000gs2000gs Posts: 5
    It is true. You can't get teh speakers out any other way. The whole back seat and rear deck need to come out. I took mine to a stereo shop and watched the installer do it. It took him at least 1 hour and he knew what he was doing.

    From what I remember I couldn't believe how involved it was to replace to rear speakers.

  • jay99jay99 Posts: 9
    On my 99 Regal GS the supercharge boost is usually 0.0. Is this normal? If a accelerate quickly, or sometimes at high speeds it will go up, but never just driving around town. The car does have 125k on it, and from what I have read the superchargers last about 100k miles. Is it just not working? Should I get it looked at?
  • bporter1bporter1 Posts: 229
    It is normal for the boost gauge to read 0.0 when you are driving the car normally. The only time it will register boost is when you stab the throttle to induce a downshift, or when you accelerate fast from a stop. If you still get no boost reading the have the supercharger looked at by a dealer. In all honesty you would not want the supercharger giving you boost all the time, because the gas mileage would be really poor to say the least. Just a side note, have you checked the oil level in the supercharger? The manual shows you how to do it. Good luck, and let us know what you find.
  • wildewwildew Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Buick Regal and cannot get any air out of the front vents. Air comes out by my feet and through the defrost vent regardless of the selected position. All other functions work on the control panel, such as A/C, Heat, and Fan speed. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to look for? :confuse:
  • rarthurrarthur Posts: 1
    My sis has a '98 Regal that she loves, but at about 120K, after a rough trip on some of the Northeast's winter pot-holed roads, her car's handling and suspension got out of whack. So she had the front and rear struts replaced, and though this partially addressed the problems, the car isn't back to the nice controlled ride she had enjoyed for several years. Someone on this forum had earlier mentioned that the Strut Tower Brace was an affordable and effective fix. Has anyone else had an experience with this solution? Or other solutions? I checked her car's tire pressure, and she's fine there. And she's running some nice, recently balanced Michelins, so I don't suspect the tires. I noticed that there is a pronounced "thump" on some rougher patches of roadway, and also what seems like a little bit of wheel "skip" sometimes, so I'm thinking it must still be something suspension-related. Also, any recommendations regarding struts other than the OEM ones she got installed? Thank you!
  • bigunit67bigunit67 Posts: 62

    What was the cost for replacing your tranny? Did you go through a dealer or private shop? Mine isn't in need of it just yet, but I can feel it changing from the smooth operator it has been. It's been serviced recently and that didn't help matters, so I know it's just a matter of miles. My mileage is just shy of 120,xxx on a 98 GS.

    My short-trip driving stinks MPG-wise also. I still manage to get 28-30 on the hwy though so long as I keep my foot out of the fuel injectors (in other words laying off the super charger). Trips I've taken that involve a lot of hills and some SC use seem to ave in the low-mid 20's.
  • sigfigssigfigs Posts: 6
    I had to have my trans replaced at 233K miles. I had it done by private shop for about $1700 w/36K warranty.
  • jay99jay99 Posts: 9
    I also paid $1700 for a used tranny (40k miles - 6 month warranty). I went through a private shop and they charged $500 for the labor. I didn't have much choice though as I wasn't sure of the problem until they already took out the transmission and told me I needed a new one. Mine had 124,xxx when it went out completely. I thought it was fine one day, and then all the sudden it wouldn't shift or sometimes it wouldn't respond at all until I restarted the car. Not fun stuff.

    My gas mileage was really poor before replacing the tranny 14-16mpg. Now it is up to 21-23 around town with premium gas. (I earlier posted 17-18 and that is with regular). I live in the mountains and I mostly drive short distances <5 miles with lots of stop and go traffic, so I am sure that doesn't help.
  • aramat12aramat12 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Buick Regal GS with the Supercharger. Has anyone else ever had a problem with the airbag sensor light coming on for what appears to be no reason?
  • bjbaker82bjbaker82 Posts: 4
    I'm about ready to scream...I just got this car a week or so ago, and something already shook loose from the right rear speaker. Piece of plastic or something is rattling back there when the bass hits and it's driving me nuts and after reading some messages, I'm scared to death to try to fix anything. Is there anything else I can do besides possibly take it to a dealer, or just biting the bullet and dealing with the rattle?
  • jbmjbm Posts: 29
    bjbaker - that depends on whether or not you have a warranty. Even if you do, the dealer may refuse to fix it because it's a 'non-mechanical' item that doesn't impair the vehicle's function. Is it a sharp, plasticky rattle or a metallic-sounding one? Does it happen only when you're using the bass in your stereo, or does it happen when your car drives over sharp bumps?

  • go10go4go10go4 Posts: 4
    I bought a 2001 Regal - supposedly a certified vehicle from a GM dealer. One day later it made a growling sound - seemed to be coming from the supercharger. Never had a supercharger before, but upon exploration found that the oil was extremely low. I need to know if the GM SC oil is the only thing that can be used, or is there a substitute. No auto parts stores around here carry SC oil. Also, does the growling sound mean damage has already occurred? It wasn't making the noise when we purchased the car. Also, does the 3.8 SC require premium grade gas. It's my wife's car, and she's not a lead-foot at all?
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