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Buick Regal



  • dfritz1dfritz1 Posts: 9
    If you just had the oil changed & it has been coming on since, then you need to reset your computer. Your owners manual will tell you how to do this. Hope this works. Good luck.
  • kcrnmalekcrnmale Posts: 47
    My 2000 GSE:
    Glove compartment rattles over bumpy road.
    My driver's door buzzes intermittantly (even with the radio off-it's not from the radio). Does anybody else have the same problem(s)? Please help!
  • pinettedpinetted Posts: 104
    Kcrnmale my 97 has had dash rattles from day one. Rattles are typical for GM cars, or at least everyone I have been in. Take it to the dealer while its under warrenty and have them try and fix it, or try using silicone on the trouble spots.
  • rickrozrickroz Posts: 26
    dfritz, thanks for the reset suggestion. I took my car to the dealer this morning to get the sensor replaced, the service advisor said resetting the computer only works for the change oil soon light.
  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    I also have had an intermittent glove box rattle. The problem seems to be how the lock aligns with the clip inside the box. Once you have that alignment solved, you should be OK. Make sure the screws on the outside bottom of the box are tight. They loosen easily.
  • rickrozrickroz Posts: 26
    I posted a few weeks ago regarding a weak blower. I finally figured out what the problem is, but need some advice on what might be causing it. I get air coming out of all three vents (heat, dash and defrost)at the same time no matter what position the selector switch is in. The a/c comes on in the correct positions and is off in vent and heater pos. The fan speed select works fine. All the vacuum lines in the engine compartment are connected. Any ideas.

  • threebthreeb Posts: 1
    I've had my GSE in the shop for water getting under the passenger side carpet.It always got water after driven in rain.Problem finally solved;in front of passenger rear wheel a seam between the frame and body is supposed to have an insulating foam that was not there.The dealer went ahead and checked both sides while carpet was out.Dry now;great,sharp vehicle.
  • pacinpelopacinpelo Posts: 142
    I had the same issue with my Regal. Dealer kept saying it was a body seam. After three visits to try to fix the issue on the third visit I demanded they pull a TSB that states water can leak into the passenger compartment from the evaporator. Since this visit and the intallation of the elbow tube on the a/c drain the car is dry. I was about to Lemon the car, but so far so good. I still love this car despite this annoying challenge.
  • jackjtjackjt Posts: 178
    I'll try this one again, especially scine it is still happening to me. On a random basis, when I start up my 01 GS, I'll experince what I call a muffled backfire. Has anyone experienced this problem?

    I've had Buick evaluate it to no avail.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    was discussed for several days on the sister Edmunds board. GM recommends never change the oil, just add every 30k miles. Now, it looks as the recommendation is not good for the long term health of our superchargers.

    longo32 "Synthetic motor oil" Mar 23, 2002 3:29pm
  • verdi942verdi942 Posts: 304
    [Currently pricing an '02 GS] - Let's see - GM puts a rather pricey piece of precision machinery ['supercharger'] into a 'premium sedan'; they fill it with oil and say, "Don't change it, just top it up". They don't mention the powdered-metal gears that will shed grits that will grind the really important vane bearings, nor is there provision for easy oil change. And people with 30K miles [still under warranty! - 'lucky' them!] are finding metal bits in a unit which spins very fast and hot during normal driving. So - why don't they use gears that don't turn to grits? Why not cool the damn thing properly? How about a convenient way to change that oil? Superchargers have been around since at least WWI; is making them durable a lost art? Has anyone here actually had one fail? Should I just buy another LS? [My '99 has zero prblems @ 34K].
  • verdi942verdi942 Posts: 304
    Where does that lost oil ['just top it up'] go?
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    I did not see many owners complaints concerning supercharger. In reality, cannot remember a single complaint.

    I am hanging around this board for 2 years, starting several months before I bought my Regal GS. Also frequent the Gran Prix board, because GS and GTP, basically, are the same. There was an old board about Regal problems; also cannot remember anybody mentioning the SC.

    So, GM and Eaton probably know a couple of things how to build superchargers.

    However, I believe that extra care would not hurt. Possibly, replacing the supercharger oil regularly will let the part to live extra 100k miles or so. The oil costs about $5.50 according to longo32, and replacing it does not look difficult.
  • pacinpelopacinpelo Posts: 142
    Before buying the GS I looked into both with Pontiac and Buick as they are the only GM line using the supercharger. As anal as it sounds (and to satisfy and concern) I called different dealers and spoke with the most tenured service rep I could find and all of them said it is very expensive to replace and it was very rare occurance when one did fail. Most said if they did 3-5 in the average of 7 years or more while working with them that would be it. One told me the SC on our Regal/Grand Prix is the best around (Eaton)...he did say otherwise about the Rivera one...not sure if that was different.

    Anyway, for peace of mind I have the extended warranty to save a $2700+ repair bill if it does go bad. Although someone posted awhile back that the SC has a 7/70 warranty.

    I contiune to question the fact that you NEVER change the oil in it though. Perhaps an Eaton tech can help us understand.
  • jg28jg28 Posts: 257
    It's not working out for my Oldsmobile Intrigue and it is recommended for the Regal as well as the Grand Prix. If anyone is interested, please let me know.
  • y2112yzy2112yz Posts: 19
    I am glad that there are people who don't buy into the "fill it and forget it" way of thinking. I have 25,000 on my 01' GS and I know for a fact that I will changing the oil on mine at 30,000.
    I would rather spend 10-15 bucks for oil, syringe, and a short hose to get the bad oil out versus a new S/C or an expensive repair bill. Yeah the S/C have 7/70 warranty, but why take a chance.
    Since we are on oil changing, I am from the old school of maintanence where you change the trans fluid at every 25,000 mi. I know Dexron III is suppose to go up to 100,000 mi, but has any one changed the trans fluid at 25,000 or somewhere in that range?? I would rather spend 60 bucks now for a fluid replacement then a new trans later. The new Hydramatics are not cheap, especially the one in the S/C vehicles with the heavy duty gearboxes. I don't know the price, and I don't want to find out either what a replacement is.
  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    Indeed the SC does have a 7/70 warranty. But for all you knuckleheads out there, the cheapest insurance for a car is frequent oil changes (that also goes for the sc). I've had cars that went a healthy 300,000+ with no oil-related problems because I change the oil every 3,000 - 3,500 miles (no matter city or highway driving). Next week I'm taking my 2000 GS in for service to change a B pillar molding (seems the sun warps these moldings.. at least here in L.A.). At this service, I'm going to change the supercharger oil. I may be nuts doing so after 20,000 miles on the odometer, but for $100, its cheap insurance for a car I like a bunch and plan on putting "a few more" miles on the odometer.

    Just my opinion...
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Well, on my other cars I change the fluid about every 30,000 (use a synthetic) but they are drain and fills and they have drain plugs. Why GM does not put plugs on the transmission pans is beyond me.

    SO, I am considering using a pump to pump out the fluid on the Buick and replace it around 25-30,000. You can tell a lot though by just looking at the fluid and smelling it so depending on driving 50-100,000 maybe okay
  • pinettedpinetted Posts: 104
    Bushwack, see if you can find out how much those moldings cost. Mine are not warped but they are scratched (I bought my 97 used) and I was thinking about replacing them.
    I am going to change my SC oil this weekend, its a little over due at 50k, but better late than never. I also change my oil every 3000 to 3500 miles. Has any one had a problem with there seat heaters? My drivers side went out and its not a fuse as far as I can tell.
  • pacinpelopacinpelo Posts: 142
    Are you getting the dealer to do your S/C oil change?
    Is it $ dealer says they do not do...but then again they are a incompetent bunch of folks.

    let us know how you make out.
  • pacinpelopacinpelo Posts: 142
    I called Eaton today and spoke with one of the techs that handles their supercharger application and she said despite what everyone thinks the oil does not need to be changed just maintained every 30,000 miles. She did say that if I keep the car and get up to 100,000 miles then it should be changed at that interval.

    I questioned further and she said the lubricants and oils of today are so far advanced that it is not necessary to change like your engine oil. Similar, I guess, to the Dextron III trans fluid and the coolant flush intervals. Hmm, how confident am I in this?

    She aksed me if I had the Regal, GP or Bonneville. She did say that most of the sales reps at Eaton like the Regal over the other GM vehicles using the S/C.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    I believe, that GM transmissions are using quality, long life filters with long-life Dexron III fluid. How could them otherwise suggest to change the fluid at 50,000-100,000 miles, and with some cars never.

    When my Malibu had transmission service about a year ago, the filter cost $80. The Firestone mechanic was surprised by high price.

    To change the filter, pan must be dropped, right? It can explain why GM does not use the drain plugs.
  • BushwackBushwack Posts: 258
    Puleeze! I'm old school and believe that fluids need to be changed. GM says do a LOF every 7,500 miles...For me, its 3,000 miles. As for the sc, they say MAINTAIN the fluid level...Hey, oil gets dirty even in a sealed environment. Changing ALL your fluids before recommended service is the right thing to do. As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

    The dealer now has my car and is changing the s/c oil for $102.50. In about a year when I take my car in for the last 'under warranty' service, I'll try and have the transmission & brake fluid flushed and replaced. Just have to figure out a way to get this done under warranty ; ). To replace the B-pillar costs about $30 though for myself, its a warranty issue.
    Footnote: If your car is still under warranty, take a look at your (black) front spoiler/air dam. Although flexible, it can crack under routine driving conditions. Have it replaced (if damaged and ) under warranty. Otherwise, its an expensive piece and an expensive repair (I was told over $500).
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    Replaced a broken Malibu air deflector last fall. It cost about $100. Hardly will be 5 times more expensive with Regal.

    However, some part prices are crasy. The Malibu wheel cover cost $114.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Why is it so hard to believe that the oil in the S/C doesn't need changing (especially when Eaton says so too)? You can certainly change it if it helps you sleep better, but it is not like there is no precedent for permanent lube. Wheel bearings today don't need to have the grease changed, and they last much longer (often the life of the car) than the days when you had to pack them every 7,500-15,000 miles. They also have much more stress on them than a S/C. Manual transmissions are also permanently lubed, as are most differentials.

    Would you tear open your sealed wheel bearings to change the grease anyways?

    I also don't see why manufacturers recommendations on oil change intervals are so hard to swallow either. I mean, how do you determine where to draw the line? You change at 3,000 miles because you always have? How do you know changes at 1,000 wouldn't be better, or 10,000? Manufacturers use science and testing to determine their recommendations, so I'm not sure why people think intuition is more accurate. GM isn't paying for your oil change, so why would they care to extend the interval artificialy? Do people buy cars based on the maintainence schedule? The Corvette has a maximum oil-change interval of 15,000 miles if you drive it just right. I doubt they did that so that Corvettes will only last 100,000 miles before hitting the scrap heap. That is one nameplate that has too much going for it to screw up.

    I can understand being worried about your car, and I could see changing the oil early under special circumstances like when the car is new or if you think something leaked into it or if you drove in unusual conditions, but under normal driving I think the recommendations are quite reasonable. I can also understand wanting to buy quality parts, oils, and filters. I could also understand if you did some research (like oil sampling) at 3,000 and also at 7,500 to see how much difference it makes. I just don't understand the "that's how I've always done it" reasoning. Just my thoughts...
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    I do not think the manufacturer recommendations are unbelievable. Just the opposite, I believe that 95 or 99% of owners will never have problems with SC.

    However, there is a report by a serious person about the SC oil he drained at about 50k miles. The liquid was in bad condition. Bad smell, and a lot of metal particles.

    So, at least some owners can have oil-related problems. Or possibly the bad oil points on related problems, e.g. a bad bearing at the SC nose.

    Given the oil costs $5.50, and draining it with syringe looks simple, I'd rather change it...
  • evizeevize Posts: 33
    What is the oil capacity of the SC... is 1 bottle of sc oil enough to do the change? I bought
    a bottle from my dealer to top up the oil & used 3/4 of it just to top up!. I think the bottle only
    contains about 4 or 5 oz.

  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    I have no experience myself; longo23 drained the oil and reported his experience on the following Edmunds board:

    longo32 "Synthetic motor oil" Mar 29, 2002 11:08pm

    Better ask him, not me. Looks as you need 8 oz (2 bottles) of the oil.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    I have changed the PS fluid on multiple cars, well, syphoned it out via the holding tank and replaced it and I would like to do this on my 2000 Buick GSE in the future. I cannot locate the fluid reservoir for the PS fluid on this thing. Where is it? Is it a clear see through containier or a black hidden canister etc?

    As to the SC oil, I think I will change mine at next oil change, seems simple enough and see what it looks like at 25,000 miles.
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    If I remember it right, the PS fluid cap is hidden deep behind engine accesories, on the belt side.
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