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Hey Henry, I agree with Garnes. A high-performance cat isn't going to hurt the engine. The pipes and mufflers will still provide plenty of restriction. In fact, I would bet the headers and pipe diameters would provide enough on their own without a cat or muffler. Plus, you can probably get a high-performance catalytic converter for less than a direct replacement one. You might also consider Dynomax and Random Technologies for aftermarket cats.
Oldsmobile is owned by GM and GM isn't going anywhere. It's not like when Fiat or Sterling pulled out of the US, then you would have had a serious problem w/ parts and service. But GM is not going to quit servicing these cars or making parts available for a long time to come - probably longer than most of these cars will last :-)
Maybe I'm fooling myself, but at least from a serviceability and parts availability standpoint I see absolutely no reason to shy away from or go out and sell a good Aurora.
Just my 2cents.
Rjs - I was wondering the same thing about the headers providing the required initial exit velocities and "restriction".
Any ideas about why you can't use an aftermarket converter on a 96 or newer car? Maybe you can, but I'm under the impression it's for 95's and older.
Garnes, my only guess on the cats for 96 and newer is that it is a legal mandate. I know that you couldn't replace the cat on older cars until it was over 5 years old. You also were supposed to prove a defect. If it was less than 5 years old, manufacturers were legally obligated to fix it. Most emissions control warranties that are separate from the rest of the warranty are to comply with the law. I think the length was eventually changed to 7 years, so perhaps that explains the 1996 and later cars. However, I'm no expert on this. I'm sure you could change to a high-flow cat on your Aurora if you wanted to. I don't think it would cause an OBD-II problem as long as the exhaust was getting cleaned. Perhaps on cold-starts, though, as a freer cat wouldn't warm up as fast...
Beachlover, I vote for your rule...
The Cadillac SRX is rumored to have a 4.2L version of the Northstar that will make 295hp. That means that a 4.6L should make about 325hp. Pretty impressive... That would be about 280hp from a 4.0L version of it. Of course, my numbers assume the horsepower being proportional to displacement, which of course it isn't. Actually, the Aurora should have more torque than a true 87% Northstar because it retains the same Northstar stroke (it doesn't have 87% of the Northstar's stroke). This would make the Aurora a bit of a stroker which should increase the torque somewhat.
I'm doing the fuel pressure regulator install soon. I went to Autozone and Advanced Auto and neither had it. They told me it was probably a dealer part. I haven't checked the dealership yet but how much have you guys paid for the part? I am pretty sure I can install it on my own but do you guys have any hints or suggestions for me before I do it?
Last time I was here the Corsa exhaust was just being installed on someones car. Have any other Aftermarket Performance parts been put out? I am really hoping for a cold air intake errr at least an intake. I was thinking about making my own but I didnt know if I would be making a wise choice, I could have ain intake with more flow, bu then I would be getting hot engine air from the engine bay and not from the wheel well.
Is there any aftermarket parts out there that you guys are hiding from me ;o)
Oh BTW, I'm getting some new plugs and plug wires. Any suggestions on what kind? Also any problems I may run into while changing them (first time changing them)?
Thanks
matrix frog
I put Bosch platinum plugs and Bosch wires on my '97 about a month back (along with new coils). Everything is running great. Be prepared for some frustration on the rear plugs and wires in this car! You will need to remove the engine cover and some hardware on the firewall to get the coil pack off to get access. It took me around two-three hours total. If anyone is considering this and has the original coils you may want to just replace them all while you're at it and avoid any future surging issues- they are only about $20/for each of the four.
Last week I got my official GM service manuals, 2 volumes for 96 Aurora/Riviera for $72 on ebay motors. It was NOS (New Old Stock) In my spare time, I read up on the old Aurora. It's very detailed, has torque specs on every bolt. I'm glad because I didn't want to over tighten bolts into that all aluminum Northstar block. The Throttle body replacement section was the first to be looked up. Didn't know that you have to re-set the throttle position any time you touch the TB. As well as the general re-learn. Also noted: use new TB gasket every time it's removed. Emailed Zsolt over at RSM immediately, kit DOES comes with a new gasket. They said the intake and TB were ready to ship separate if I wanted, but I said I’d wait for it all.
RSM-Project is still in the mail, ha-ha. Seriously. Talked with them last Thursday and they said that they just finished the Front Strut Tower Brace that day, and would ship everything the next day, Friday. So now it's Tuesday and I'm getting excited when the UPS man comes everyday around 11am, maybe tomorrow will be the day. (sigh)
I'm also still waiting for my DYNO hookup. My Dad say's it's still in the box, but they taped it out the other day. Hopefully within a 4-6 weeks it will be up and running. I've got 82K miles on my 96, warranted till 90K. Think I'll go in for 100K service now at 82K, be good to the car gods. New plugs should help bring back some lost power before the dyno run. Called about 100K Service, it's $450 for plugs, trans flush and screens, coolant flush, all new filters inc. fuel filter, tire rotate and balance, and oil change. I also need the front air dam. There wasn’t one on the car when I bought it 2 years ago, after reading the service manual, the air dam deflects air towards the radiator, lowering engine temp.
Anybody needs something looked up in the Service Manual, just ask. Post or email me at taylorsturf@attbi.com
Also came accross some good wheel/tire calulator sites:
http://www.tolan-hoechst.com/cars/tirecalc.htm
http://www.miatanet.com/garage/tirecalc.html
Forgot the exhaust up-date: Planning on Corsa Mufflers for $450 http://www.corsaperf.com/flashcadillac.htm haven't decided on tips yet. Maybe Corsa's but for $150 for tips seems high to me. RSM exhaust uses Saber tips for $70 set http://webhome.idirect.com/%7Ersm1/aurexh.jpg both are 2.5in piping. Tough choice, what kind of tips. I need to mesure the tip cut out on a STS, see how it compares to the Classic. Install will be around $300 including new 2.5 piping from cat-back (stock is 2.25). I have to take emmisons before July, probably wait on the exhaust till then. Should I replace the stock cat too? Probably,huh? Hi flow something. Still planning on driving the Aurora in two years for my next emmissions test though.
800wattAURORA
As for air induction, you can do the air box mod like I've detailed on caddyinfo.com - it does very well. Or you can get the RSM system and build a heat shield around it as 800wattaurora intends to do. Without the heat shield, its going to pull hot air. Extreme motor sports (x-m-s.com) was supposed to come up with a cold air induction for the caddy northstar, but they don't seem to be coming through. Who knows.
800wattaurora - good luck with everything. Let us know how it goes. Also, please explain the reset of the throttle body.
I contacted Granatelli motor sports and they said they will recalibrate the MAF again for me. I said I'll be sending it back and want them to calibrate it back to the stock factory A/F ratios. I've seen the results running richer and leaner and it lost power. My reasoning is that if the darn thing actually lets a little more air through, and the A/F is the same, then it might add at least a little more power. Again - who knows. I'm not holding my breath.
800wattaurora - let me know if you would be interested in testing this (new and improved) MAF. I can send it to you. If it does finally make an improvement, and you are interested in it, we can talk. Let me know if any of this is of interest to you. The MAF is basically a stock factory unit with the screen deleted and it has been recalibrated for the air flow. I guess it is might now be the same as the factory unit with a simple screen delete. Just let me know here.
Mine's starting to backfire occasionaly on startups, and Schucks (Parts chain in the Northwest) has the regulator for $63.
Soooo who remembers or wants to take the time to explain the procedure for old froggy and me?.......please.....
Eric
Ewt and Seegirt, sorry to hear you're quitting the Aurora... Ewt, if you have a big tray (like a cat litter box) then the tranny isn't so bad. I wonder if there is some reason they never use a drain plug. Perhaps it causes some disruption or something.
ewt...couldn't find any contact info to ask you your price on your Aurora, although I'd have to plan a cross country trip if I ever bought it....
musclecar97 - Does the place with the fuel press reg have a website? I'd like to get out of going to a dealer to get this part.
I think Im going to buy new plugs an wires tonight. Thanks for the suggestions Mindseye97, I think I'll get the same also and might as well do the coil packs too. Did you get yours from a dealership?
Ewt - thanks for the run down. Sounds pretty easy. I got a question for ya, Im not totally sure if the fuel press reg is bad. I have the symptoms but should it be dripping gas or anything like that?
frog - I'll check on a website or 800# for Schucks Auto Supply and post it here for ya
THROTTLE BODY ASSEMBLY (TP SENSOR LEARNING PROCEDURE)
A TP Sensor Learn routine has been implemented in the PCM software to allow the PCM to correct or offset the closed throttle signal value of the TP sensor. This is necessary because of manufacturing tolerances during assembly of the throttle body and TP sensor are not adjustable on the throttle body. If an improper TP sensor offset is maintained by the PCM, a high idle at closed throttle or stall condition may occur. Performing the "TP Sensor Learn" procedure lets the PCM learn the correct TP sensor offset.
NOTICE: Make sure nothing is touching the accelerator during the TP learn. Also ensure that the cruise cable is not holding the throttle open.
The TP sesnor learn procedure should be performed when:
1. TP sensor is replaced (2)
2. Throttle body is removed/replaced
3. The PCM is replaced.
Ok here's how to do it now, TP Sensor learn, it sounds very tough.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position, with the engine NOT running.
2. Wait for 30 seconds.
3. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position.
4. Wait for 30 seconds.
That's it! The manual makes this sound Very important, but it's so simple?
800wattAURORA
Notice: Take care not to damage the MAF sensor housing screen. Damage to the screen could restrict airflow possibly resulting in a driveablity concern.
1. Remove the air intake duct.
2. Reove the MAF sensor assembly.
3. Inspect the throttle body bore and throttle valve plate for deposits. It is necessary to open the throttle valve to inspect all surfaces.
NOTICE: Do not use any solvent that contains Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). This solvent may damage fuel system components.
4. Clean the throttle body bore and the throttle valve plate using a clean shop towel with GM Top Engine Cleaner, P/N 1052626 or AC-Delco Carburetor Tune-Up Conditioner, P/N X66-P, or equivalent product.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Notice: The outlet of th air cleaner assembly and the MAF sensor inlet duct must line up when completely installed. Misalignment may cause incorrect airflow readings resulting in MIL illumination or a driveability concern. Improper installiation of the inlet duct assembly or air cleaner assembly may cause misalignment.
1. Install the MAF sensor assembly with 3 bolts.
2. Tighten the MAF housing attaching bolts to 8N.m (71 lb in)
3. Install the intake air duct.
4. Perform the DTC P1526 TP Sensor Learn Not Complete. (discribed in previous message)
Hope this is usefull to my fellow Auroraians.
Ask me if you need something looked up or need torque specs or something.
taylorsturf@attbi.com
800wattAURORA
These home made additives claim to raise points to desired octane rating up to +100. Came with mixing ratio's for desired rating per gallon and overall % of fuel mixture. Think it was from SUNOCO they sell custom blended fuel for race cars. Only find these gas stations near a drag strip.
It listed to add chemicals that I would never even think about putting in my Aurora. I laughed at the idea of screwing up my Classic and threw the print-out, out. Flipping through the Service Manual, I came accross the Fuel Specifications which SHOCKED ME!
FUEL SPECIFICATIONS
Octane Requirements-4.0L (Vin C)
Min Octane Required: 91
GASOLINE with ALCOHOL
Notice: Do not spill fuel containg alcohol on the vechile. Alcohol can cause damage to the paint, finish and the trim.
METHYL TERTIARY-BUTYL ETHER (MTBE)
Fuel containing MTBE may be used, providing there is no more than 15% by volume.
ETHANOL
Fuel containing ethanol (ethyl) or grain alcohol may be used, providing that there is no more than 10% alcohol by volume.
METHANOL
Fuel containing methanol (methyl) or wood alcohol may be used, providing there is no more than 5% by volume.
NOTICE: Do not use fuel that contains more than 5% methanol. Use of a fuel (gasohol) that contains more than 5% of methanol can corrode metal fuel system components and damage plastic and rubber parts.
Couldn't belive this when I found this. The above chemicals were everything listed on my home made octane boosters with mixing ratio's. To bad I trashed it. I guess that this Northstar motor can benfit from higher octane gas or they wouldn't list these options. A place by my house carries 101 during the summer for $2.75 per gallon( that price was from two years ago when had my 86 Cutlass 442) probably cost around $3 bucks a gallon now. Ouch. This booster list had break down on cost per gallon too, cheaper and better than Octane in a bottle which DOES use some of the same additives listed above. Going to have to look that info up again. Maybe I'll even Dyno or get a track time for comparison from 93 to 100+. My only experince with 100+ Octane was in my 442 with 307HO. I could definitly tell the difference. I could bury the speedo much faster!!! Stock speedo only went up to 85, why?.
Remebering the good old days: At top speed in the old 442 at a speed of 1??, it once took 11 seconds for the speedo to un-bury itself. The car would de-ecclerated around 4 MPH per second at 84MPH. After the math thats around 130MPH, thats 20MPH faster than my damn limited 112. Wish I could re-move that speed limiter for special occasions.
Man I typed a lot tonight, time for bed. (sigh)
800wattAURORA
Mine was leaking into the vacuum hose that connects the FPR to the intake manifold, so that gas would pool in the manifold, which resulted in long cranking times, followed by black smoke at startup from the excess fuel. It only happened on hot starts when the car had been shut down for a relatively short time. The extra gas would evaporate overnight, so it started right up in the morning. I'm not sure if that is the normal failure mode or not. I thought it was probably a leaking injector at first. After pulling all the injectors and finding no leaks, I noticed fuel in the vacuum hose and realized what the problem was.
Eric
Garnes, I was just trying to be funny about the difference in assessed value when it's for tax reasons as opposed to purchase reasons. However, I have seen some 2001 4.0s with reasonable miles (around 20k) in the low $20s. I doubt I could sell my car for $31,000, though (although it's nicer than when I took delivery). The NADA for a 2001 with my options and mileage (they don't have 2002 numbers yet) is $26,625 retail and $23,450 trade-in. Actually, I hope it depreciates fast as I have no intention of selling it. The tax on the value over $20,000 is 4.2% every year. It used to be 4.2% on the whole value... Can you imagine? That's like paying sales tax on your car every dang year. Now, they "relieve" me of 70% of the tax on the value under $20,000 (so it's like a 1.25% tax on that). I like Virginia, but the car tax and the annual car inspection are the pits. Both the inspection and the tax require you to have a decal in the window which I hate the most. If some bone-head mechanic scrapes it off with a razor (which they undoubtedly will if I don't remove it before going in for re-inspection) it will certainly ruin the Solar-Ray coating on the windshield. Plus, it interferes with the headlight sensor as it is often in the shadow of the decals.
I still Lexol the leather about every two weeks. I think I have become addicted. I had the bottle for almost 4 years with the Corvette and used about 1/4 of it. Now it's almost empty and I've only had the Aurora for like 6 months... Granted, there are twice as many seats to apply it to in the Aurora.
Rjs - I love that Lexol too. Long term, nothing compares. I too have used it a lot. I'm amazed at how long the seats retain a soft texture that kind of grips your jeans. Nothing else retains that. I hate it when the leather gets that slick dried out feeling. You just slide on it like it was vinyl.
More downtime for my Classic - just picked her up tonight - been in the shop since Sunday night. While on a cruise to the gas station to get a gallon of milk, the "Service Engine Soon" light came on. After verifying that all gauges/DIC were fine, and topping off the gas tank (made sure the gas cap was tight), I gave up and drove the car the half mile to the dealership, and had my wife pick me up.
The error code in the ECM was "low idle speed". They reset the code, and they tried to duplicate the problem. The tech ended up driving my car home Monday night, and it finally errored out again. Diagnosis? A weak Idle Air Control Motor. Took 'em a couple of days to get the part, but I've finally got my car back (just before I fly out of town for a week :-(. Thank god for my extended warranty, which has now more than paid for itself ($250 for this repair - on the heels of the $1250 AC compressor repair of two weeks ago). No Classic owner should be without one. I've owned mine for 13 months, and put 18k miles on it. She's been good up to this point (water pump failure and some trim issues under the GM warranty, and tires and brakes), but the back-to-back problems are a little disconcerting...
--Robert
P.S. More info on idle problems at
http://www.salemboysauto.com/faqs/faq-27.htm
As an aside, anyone use Vinylex by Lexol? What do most of you use on weatherstripping? Silicone grease is really slow to apply. Plus, it's hard to get it into the sides and creases of the stripping. I have been using Armor All monthly and silicone grease every 6 months. The Armor All gets in the creases better, applies much quicker, and it helps me keep the stripping clean (especially the lower door seal). Should I try Meguiar's interior protectant or Vinylex or something instead? I know Armor All isn't the best, but it says it helps rubber. I don't think the Meguiars mentions rubber. Plus, Armor All would be better than nothing, and I do use silicone too. Any and all thoughts would be appreciated. Also, any way to treat the stripping in the sunroof?
The weatherstripping on my Corvette was neglected when I bought it. It cost me about $1200 to replace, and that was doing it myself. It would have been over $2000 to have done. The car was a targa top, so keep that in mind. Plus, I did it right and replaced all the weatherstrip retaining brackets and hardware. I don't want to have to do that ever again. It's a real pain in the butt. I can also say, steer clear of aftermarket makers of weatherstrip. I spent about $600 on aftermarket stuff in order to save a few hundred on GM parts. I spent a whole day installing it only to have the material be too fat. The doors barely closed, the windows wouldn't go up, and the roof wouldn't attach. It wasn't an adjustment problem. The stripping was much thicker than stock. So I had to pull it all off, return it (with much difficulty as it couldn't be used again), and do the whole thing again with GM parts.
Will the same mufflers that the caddy guys are using fit on the aurora? I read most of them are using Dynomax Super Turbos. If they will Im gonna buy 2 of them and upgrade the Y pipe with my next pay check. I'm gonna have to hold off installation until I get my FPR fixed. Right now Im trying to price them and get an idea for labor cost. I hate working on exhuast...
I think Im gonna get the stock replacement K&N. Until somone has made a CAI I dont think I will want a cone. I've heard some bad things about the cones on the caddys. Well not really bad, just that the heat from the engine reduces the horsepower even though it has more flow.
Anyone have there windows tinted on their aurora? How much did you pay? I want the rear side windows and the rear window done. I have a friend that cant tint but I want this done really nice w/ no blemishes.
So I need to ask you to not use this board for the purpose of selling a vehicle (or anything else).
Why don't you check out Edmunds.com's Used Power Shopper either to list a used vehicle or to look for one available in your area.
Thanks for your understanding.
Pat
Sedans Host
and
http://autopia-carport.com/
Click on Detailing articles
The Lexol works great and have not heard nothing bad about it. Will look at my car and write you direct about the inserts.
#63-33-01...Popping noise when turning steering wheel.
#43-83-13...traction control system
#47-60-7...Fuel throttle linkage control (clicking noise under dash)
#53-12-08 Air conditioner condenser
I recommend if any Aurora owner has the above problems, refer to TSB number and ask for a good faith warranty repair if you do not have warranty coverage.