Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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You have to get at them from the bottom. Remove several of the plastic hangers and pull the plastic shield down so you can get you hand and arm in there to remove the bulb. It isn't a hard job after pulling the plastic shield down.
Good luck.
1. Anyone had their power window motors fail and if so what did it cost to have them replaced?
2. Anyone know of a solid 3rd party warranty that would cover the power window motors, as well as items like water pumps,A/C,ignition, etc?
3. Are there any noticeable gains between a 95 and a 99?
And the story is:
Late last fall the front passenger side window starting working intermittently, it gradually got to the point where it rarely works. Then the drivers side rear window starting doing the same thing.
Had it at the dealer for routine service and since the windows weren't working I asked them to check it out. They came back with a diagnosis stating that the window motors need to be replaced. That sounded odd to me as when they did work the motors obviously functioned. Their claim is that when they tapped the motors they began to work, said it is the common way the motors fail.
At an estimated cost of $500.00 to replace both of them, I wanted to see if anyone else had this happen.
Bought the car around a year ago with 60k miles, now have a whopping 66k on it. I passed on the 3rd party warranty when I purchased the car, knowing that it wouldn't be driven all that much. Today I am thinking that if a solid 3rd party warranty covers the window motors, it would be a worthwhile investment. I can easily meet the time and mileage requirement before getting them fixed.
Plus, I've read enough horror stories on this board so I'd feel a lot more comfortable with a good warranty.
It is either pay for the warranty and keep the car, or roll the dice and trade it on a 99 diamond white. Obviously cheaper to buy a warranty, plus the 95, so far, doesn't have any other mechanical problems. Engine compartment still looks like new and engine is perfectly dry. Uses no oil between 3k mile changes and no fluid leaks either.
Appreciate any info/suggestions.
I see GM power window motors on eBay all of the time for $50 or so. I'd also check your local AutoZone. $500 to replace them seems about right for a dealership. If you are mechanically inclined (I'm really not) or have a friend who is (I do - I work on his computers, he works on my cars :-) it's probably worth a shot to do it yourself.
As to extended warranties, my 1Souce "diamond" plan specifically does cover them. I got a good deal on my extended warranty because I bought it while still under the factory warranty. Generally, the older the car (and the more miles on it), the plans are more expensive, cover less, and your car would have to be inspected (and, if the motors are intermittent, you definitely have a "pre-existing condition".
You should look at the cost of adding the extended warranty on your present car (and see what those warranties will cover), versus the cost of trading in/selling it and buying the '99 (which presumably still has a factory warranty) and adding the extended later...
Hope this helps,
--Robert
I know '96 and later have OBD-II (diagnostics and computer)
I believe '97 and later have a different suspension setup
The back glass was changed in '96 to reduce distortion
I'm sure the driver's seat (and maybe the rear seats) were lowered to provide more headroom (my mother-in-law had a '95 and I couldn't sit in the back seat - and barely fit in the driver's seat - and I'm only 6' - but have no such problems in my '98
The cupholder was changed (right Henry?)
Anything else anyone wants to chip in on?
Exhaust-also check out the Caddy performance section on Gm Forms, there is a new post on Dynomax users, and custom Corsa set-ups applicable to Auroras's, soon to be ME.
Window tint- I've had my Aurora and my old 86 442 tinted at Ziebart. All 5 window on my Aurora are 30% light comes thorugh. Cost for 5 windows $229 Lifetime Guarntee to against peeing, fading, or cracking. Rear 3-widows Cost $179 (just bought rear 3 windows @20% for girlfriends Accord) Any darker than 20% cost more by the way. Never had 1 problem with the Cutlass. Once on the Aurora, after year and half the pass front window peeled at the bottom on X-MAS day last year, I was sad. Took it back to Ziebart and they re-tinted it on the spot for nothing. I'm very happy with my tint other than I've gotten 1 ticket for it, In Illinois it's illegal for any% on front windows. But I don't care, in the Chicago land area I see front tints every 2 min, some tint windshield's. But in 6 years of having all 5 window done, only 1 ticket. Also my Aurora came with the greenish windows, that when tinted made a gasoline-rainbow effect in direct sun, cool looking. Just bought new sunglass that where poliarized and when looking through tint inside out, it makes some serious rainbow effects, shows flaws in others tint, none in mine though. Polarized glasses and window tint are wierd.
Foglights- gotta get em from under the car, I put yellow lights in mine from http://www.classicgarage.com/classicgarage/wl-ygh89350.html Since I added my system, the pass. fog light burns out ever 1-2 months, first time took me 10-15 min to change, now 45 sec with experience, always have an extra yellow bulb in the glove box.
worldii2-Thank you for the service bulletin-Today I brought it in for 100K service at 82K and handed them your list and said Fix the clicking noise under the dash that you couldn't find before.THANKS SO MUCH, it drive's me nuts, have to turn up the stereo to block out.
Garnes-When you went in for your Dyno's, were there any fans blowing at front of car? What do you think about dynoing with hood open with stock box and RSM setup? Allowing for optium air available, Fans can't simulate driving speeds or force any air into my ram-air hosing either. Might help the numbers to show best breathing conditions available.
800wattAURORA
The dealership replaced a power steering hose (I believe the original was too short), and this seemed to fix the problem, as the problem has not returned.
Keeping my fingers crossed,
--Robert
Another thought - when your on the Dyno, consider using Mobile 1 or some good synthetic oil. It just made me feel a little better seeing that speedo and tach go to the wall over and over again while testing.
Also - would you be interested in testing out that "improved" MAF with readjusted A/F ratios?? I can send it to you after I get it back from Granatelli.
Go Sox. I gotta drive up and take my dad to another game.
Ram air - I'm going to blow the leaf blower at the front of the car from a distance (actually someone else) and I'm going to try to see if there is really any air velocity inside the fender to take advantage of. Wheel to Wheel told me they put a little scoop inside the fender to ram some air into the air box for the Tim Allen 398 HP Deville. I've always wondered if this would really do anything.
1996 added daytime driving lights, panic button on the keyless remote, seats and outside mirrors move to their presets when the remote keyless entry is used, remote entry functions are programmable, perimeter lighting is activated when doors are unlocked in the dark, battery run-down protection, and recirculation mode added to climate control system.
1997 added 3-channel garage-door opener (early ones were not HomeLink (rolling code) compatible; later ones were), integrated compass added to inside rearview mirror, in addition to the FE3 sport suspension the front brake rotors were increase in diameter, improved operation of outside door handles, seatbelt end-release buckles, optional 12-disc CD changer without BOSE, right exterior mirror dips when in reverse for parking assistance, engine oil cooler was deleted sometime during the model year.
1998 went to second-generation air bags.
I don't know of any changes from 1998 to 1999.
98 to 99 - 99's added more motor mounts - I think two.
Has anyone else notice sometimes when you hit the brake pedal it feels really firm and stiff? Mine does this ocassionaly. I'll hit the pedal and it feels a lot harder than usual. When I let off it and push down again it goes back to normal. Any ideas?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1827344634
Anyobdy think it will owrk with our cars? ideas/problems?
The brakes sound like a master cylinder problem. Could be it's going bad.
steering shudder: my '97 does the same thing occassionally. There was a TSB on it -- replacing one of the power steering hoses. I could have had it done under warranty but decided not to since it was no big deal, the service manager assured me there was no cause of damage going forward, and I always figure there's a chance of screwing something up.
hard, high, brake pedal: I experience this condition sometimes, too. I think it is the ABS kicking in. It has happened (maybe a dozen times in 2 years) to me only as I am driving out of the parking garage at work. Seems to be a combination of turning (right, but maybe doesn't matter), and transitioning from level to going down a grade.
I set the cruise control at 80. It's kind of annoying to be getting worse milage than my 5.7L Trans Am did, though it's way more comfortable.
Is this normal? I'm using crap california gas, too, if that matters.
Is the 20mpg an average or instant? Do you sit in any traffic? Have you checked it against the pump to make sure the DIC isn't wrong?
That will reset computer systems to factory presets and relearn your current operating conditions.This will also reset the DIC. I picked up 2mpg on a relearn. I have 7k on my 2002 4.0. I would also do the math by hand against the DIC. mileage/gal.used.
I drive 10 miles one way, twice a day and get 19.5 mpg combination city/interstate driving usually not over 60 mph. RJS is right, to get good mileage, you have to keep the speed down, there is a drop off.
Straight interstate at 70 mph, I get 23-28 mpg depending on terrain using cruise. The window sticker on the new cars say 17 city/25 highway.I DO NOT RESET the DIC except when I fill up AND take a interstate trip for true highway mileage. I do not reset at any other time.
Good Luck,
Steve
The main thing I like about GM's websites is that they are straighforward and accurate. It's quite simple to see what you are getting with your car, or with a certain trim package. It isn't nearly as straightforward with other makers. When I was Aurora shopping, I was appalled by how hard it was to figure out what the differences were in the Lincoln LS's 5 or so different trim levels. In many cases, the names aren't even intuitive. I mean, which is better deluxe or premium?? The 300M was better than that, but still not up to GM's straightforwardness (go to any vehicle page and try to determine if it has a trip computer/DIC. You'll find it's hard to tell with many companies. That's just one example. I mean, I care about more than if it has airbags, ABS, and an engine...) It's a shame they seem to be about to give that up to be more like other companies. The whole thing with making ABS an option seems so crappy and will make the trim selection more confusing. Just my opinion, though.
Thanks everyone!
RJS - let us know how the air mod works out. Sounds cool. Also, if you are in the Cleveland area, there is an Olds dealer down the road from Corsa in Berea. They put a Corsa system on a 2001 and it may be the "dealers" car and available for a listen. I'm sure Jim Browning Jr. could give you the name and number of the place. I'll bet it's the car pictured on caddyinfo as well. I am going to get their number to call and hopefully get some feedback. I'm still considering the system. I wonder what difference the 13% less exhaust per rpm would make to the sound quality compared to the STS I heard. Any thoughts?
i also have a '95, and my battery died in December of 2000. it gave no warning. i went to start my Aurora one morning, and there was nothing there, just barely enough juice to illuminate the interior lights. If you want my opinion, i'd replace it before you get stuck somewheres, and of course it will be at the most inconvenient time.
i replaced mine myself with an AC-Delco direct replacement.
6 or 7 years on a battery is pretty good i would think.
You have been fortunate with your Aurora's battery life. Almost 7-1/2 years is exceptional; the battery location is a benign environment, which undoubtedly helps extend life.
The battery in my (Sept. 1996) '97 Aurora failed in November 2001. AC/Delco is the only replacement available. GM dealer prices run from $120 to $150 to ???. Some distributors discount at about $110.
BTW, this is a huge battery by today's standards. It weighs 55 pounds -- by far the heaviest battery for GM cars. It is the same size (except for the side terminals) as the battery in my 1970 4-4-2.
Good luck.
henri
First off, my '98 just went out of factory warranty. The car is still running quite well, but I think some performance mods will be in order in the near future.
On the steering sudder at low speeds, I've heard you all say there is a TSB on that. I just brought my car in for a few minor prob before the warranty expiration, with that as one complaint. I said that I was pretty sure there was TSB, but they dealer told me no. If you guys can give a link or TSB number, I would appreciate it. Since it is on my record, if I find it, I will make them make it good.
Once every month or so, the car will backfire at startup. Usually while it is hot. Is this the fuel pressure regulator I've heard of? Not a big problem yet, but it would be nice to nip in the bud.
800watt, I'm waiting on pins wanting to know how your bigger TB works out. I've been eyeing that and it looks nice. BTW, I've had my all windows tinted pretty dark for about $210 (windshield excluded). Aside from a necessity in the deep south, looks very nice on a white car.
engine misfire, Had same problem with my 1996 and they said it was fuel regulator which was under warranty. The steering shudder bulletin is TB# 56-32-02A of April 1996 for 1996 Aurora. Although you have a 1998 Aurora you may be able to get some satisfaction. Never hesitate to call customer
service with an issue
Service Bulletin Number: 990232008 Bulletin Sequence Number: 837 Date of Bulletin: 09/99
NHTSA Item Number: SB608379
Component: STEERING
Summary:
SOME CUSTOMERS MAY COMMENT ABOUT A STEERING SHUDDER DURING SLOW SPEED TURNING / PARKING MANEUVERS. *TT
http://www.alldata.com/recalls/index.html#
I too am very interested in how 800wattaurora's throttle body replacement, Corsa exhaust, and induction work out and what the dyno results are. A first hand review of the exhaust system sound on an Aurora would be great. I anticipate some major gains. I hope he budgets for a very good radar detector too. He will need it.
It starting to get warmer out around here and I noticed I have a couple spots in my window seals that are starting to bubble up a little bit. There all on my rear window.
"First Person Experience."
Jeffery- let me know how the re-learn goes....
Go to this site for help
Good Luck
I have it in my 96,however, it can only be heard with the radio on....so it must be coming from the right speaker(s). You guys have any clue as to what this one might be???
thanks!
Seegirt
I enjoy reading every ones suggestions on the different problems. Keep up the good work.
Battery-since this seems current, I still have the factory battery in my 96. Probably should replace that soon, especially with my 800watt constant demand of power. The Farad Cap’s are a great thing for systems, I always monitor my battery voltage thru DIC and it’s usually 14-15v, not really worried about it for now, definitely replace before winter. Whats replacement cost? Anyone ever use Optima Dry-cells? Optima is recommended for those with high-demand systems cost around $120-140, depending on size, have to be custom fit though, prob talk to stereo installers, don't want to discharge 1-farad cap in my face.
cwiley1-how did the smaller bat. fit, what do you mean buy a longer ground? How much longer?
Service-Last week got 100K service done at 82K. Car runs stronger and pulls harder in the higher RPMs. The plugs were Platinum 1's. Trany shifts seem firmer. After I told The Service Manager what I wanted done, he said why, the car doesn't need it. I said I want to be good to her, keep it running top-notch forever. He thought I was nuts. You know that cost around $500. I said yah, I called earlier, just do it. Five hours later, running better than when I brought it in that's why, I'm hoping to get 150K+. This year the Aurora will be paid off, good service=no car payment.
Headlights-After picking up the car from the dealer, that night my driver’s headlight went out. Took out the Nexus blue's which were 16 months old and put in Sylvania Silver Stars. Big change in brightness. My slightly blue lights looked GREAT but lost some vision due to the blue coating over the stock halogen. The silver stars are intense whiter light with a slight purple coating/look. Big improvement for $24 per bulb IMO.
garnes and wingnut396- I am too interested to see the results of my mods. Unfortunately I'm still eagerly awaiting arrival. Think I'll be emailing RSM AGAIN. Not mad though, they have kept me updated on the delays and offered to ship what parts they have ready, I declined every time. Lately I've been SO busy, swamped at work, going on two months of 60-hour weeks. I'm SO TIRED. At least School gets out next week. Little time these days to worship the car gods and post with my fellow Auroraians.
HEAT SHIELD-While changing the driver’s headlight, we all know you have to take out the induction hosing/filter out to get to that headlight. This gave me a good look for ideas on were to put this shield. I have no Idea, ha ha. Going to need the kit in my hand, to build it. There's definitely a place in engine compartment for it, and I've got an idea on shape, but I don't know how I'll attach it. In Jadcock's caddy- http://jadcock.oldsgmail.com/cadsls/images/intake3.jpg he told me it's pressure fit. I don't like that Idea, just pushing it in and hope that it stays. His shield looks very constrictive to the nice K&N. The RSM kit angles in and down more toward the bottom. It might fit in the same place just bent differently, might work out. Maybe glue on? The stock air box would go right over the evidence of tampering with it, if I decided to put the stocker back on for some reason.
Dyno- Still no action taken on the new dyno, sitting in a big box at my fathers school. Don't know what I'm going to do. Hum. Thinking about running with the hood open. That wouldn't effect the stock setup since it pulls from inside the fender. The intake setup could benefit with the hood open though. It needs moving air to show the optimum intake gains since its not true CAI. Running with hood open would show what happens with optimum breathing capability. When cruising around with a head wind bringing in outside air that gets guided to the filter area due to some ram air mock-up isn't happening when the car is sitting still on a dyno with a fan blowing on the front. Have to be a BIG fan to simulate. What's everyone think??? Garnes? I might be interested in your MAF for testing. We would need to talk about it later. I need to get My current mods done first before I plan something else. I've heard split decisions on gains and losses on different makes using MAF's. RSM didn't recommend them, but I might be willing to give it a try if I ever get my Dyno hook up. Otherwise it’s going to be around $100 for every 2 runs, less if I spend Hours there, like $80 an hour. Probably just going to test Stock setup with new ACdelo filter vs. RSM intake w/K&N cone and bored Throttle body. Then later with whatever exhaust I end up with. Corsa is still sounds the best but, second thoughts in back of mind of noise and price. Any donations to the fund of dynoed mods for my Aurora will be excepted!
Radar- already have a good radar detector, Escort Passport Solo wireless. It's very reliable and NO false dectections, cost around $200. I hear that Escort makes the police radar guns, can't believe they play both sides of the market and get away with it. Escort only makes higher line detectors. Got one for my Mother.
Tires- I need to get new rubber soon. Any recommendations? Got Goodyear GA's now, went to NTB and they recommended the Michelin MXV4+'s. Much improved over the old MXV4's that used to comes on the autobahn's. Haven't decided though, maybe Dunlop Sport A2's. NTB said they Dunlop’s have a good reputation, but the Sport A2’s hasn’t been out a year yet. He wouldn't recommend them with out more feedback.
Rims- here is a cool link for rims on cars. The classic is there in any custom made color and with many rim choices. You can even lower the car several inches too. www.afftw.com/main.htm also rim and tire calulators http://www.miatanet.com/garage/tirecalc.html and http://www.tolan-hoechst.com/cars/tirecalc.htm
I'll be keeping everyone updated. Please comment on anything/everything.
taylorsturf@attbi.com
800wattAURORA
I ordered a set of new Bosch Platinum plug wires. They costed $69 at AutoZone. They had to be shipped and will arrive Tuesday. I plan on changing them along with the plugs sometime after Wednesday. I got a great deal on a set of Splitfires.
Anybody know just how much power the power steering robs the Aurora of power? I've heard of people taking off their power steering inorder to gain ever bit of power they can. An Aurora without power steering would prolly be very hard to steer. The other day I was just thinking how the Aurora has magnasteer and how easy my car is to steer than others which made me think my powersteering is working harder than other cars which made me think it might be consuming more power. Just a thought I thought I would share ;o)
THOSE WHO HAVE DONE THE FUEL PRESS REG INSTALL-
After I get my new plugs and wires in I plan on doing this. I want to be as sure as I can be that this is the problem without having to take it to a mechanic. Tell me if these symptoms match the problem.
-Hard to start sometimes. Rolls over fine but just doesnt start up right away. Somestimes smells like gas.
-Engine hesitates and ocasionally backfires under WOT.
-When AC gets turned on, car hesitates even more.
I think those problems might be a combo of the fuel press reg and plugs/wires. I am pretty sure I still have the factory wires. I am hoping I wont need new coils too, I dont have a lot of money to put in the aurora right now.