Congratulations on your purchase! I purchased a '95 a year ago w/ 50K miles. It now has 80K and has been a good car. I traded out of an infinity Q45 and my first impression of the suspension on the Aurora was that is was a bit "loose" also. Especially in the front end when going over washboard-type bumps. I replaced my shocks about 5K miles ago. They needed it and the car rides great - but I still get the same feeling in the steering. On washboard bumps I can feel the steering wheel slightly shake/rattle - almost imperceptably. I don't think anything's dangerously wrong. I have had it to the dealer and they say nothing's wrong. I'm thinking it's just Oldsmobile's suspension/steering design.
The fog lights will come on with either the parking lights or the low-beam headlights. They are turned off w/ the high beams.
In addition to the suspension, the steering wheel seems a bit shakey. I can move it up and down (the column) a bit. It almost seems as if there is something loose. Maybe it's just way the car is.
Larryfl--Did replacing your shocks make much of a difference? Perhaps I should take it to have the front end inspected.
Funny you should mention that. Just last week my steering wheel became "loose". It appears to be in the tilt/adjust mechanisum. In normal driving position, it will move down/up about 1" or so -- that is, if I push down on it, it will tip down and to the left about an inch and then go back up when I release it. I haven't had time to take it in yet to see what exactly is the problem. And, no, it's definitely not the way it's suppose to be.
The shocks made a significant difference in the ride. I replaced all four w/ Monroe Sensa-tracs (rear-air adjustable). But the washboard "shuffle" didn't change much. I really think it's just the way the front end's designed.
I just saw a 1997 Aurora with 126k miles on it at the local used car dealer. Any idea how much this could go for compared to the regular-wear 1997s? I'm in the market for a used car, and although the mileage on this one probably excludes it, I'm still curious.
According to Consumer Reports, 1997 was the reliable year for the classic edition. It gets a red check (versus a black "average" check for the 1999 and below average for all the others). That alone makes me still slightly interested.
KABOOM!!! greeted my as I turned the ignition switch to start today after work. I knew my fuel-pressure regulator needed to be replaced and ordered one last Thursday, planning to pick it up this Thursday and install over the weekend. Needless to say, my schedule has accelerated.
A flash flame erupted from the valve cover grommet adjacent to the oil-filler cap. It melted, shredded, and scattered about 1.5 square feet of the hood insulator. I was lucky as the flame self extinguished. I didn't even have the opportunity to use my Halon fire extinguisher. There appears to be no other damage. I reinserted the plastic PCV pipe back into the grommet and the engine runs fine. I will not restart it until I replace the FPR and blow excess gasoline fumes out of the crankcase.
BTW, I removed the engine cover long ago as an appearance only, weight-adding item. Had it been in place, it and its foam rubber padding would probably have absorbed the brunt of the explosion, instead of the hood insulator. Would this have been better or worse? I don't know.
My '97 has that loose popping feeling in the steering wheel also, and has had it for sometime. I notice it if I'm parked and shake the wheel up and down there is slight play in it, otherwise when turning while the car is moving I hear and feel a slight thumping sound
I wrote a few days ago that I was on the verge of buying a newer car. Well, it happened. I picked up a 98 STS in excellent condition. It is a certified car with about 11,000 miles left on the warranty. I paid about $19K, it is forest green metallic with a tan interior.
The main reason for moving from the 95 Aurora was the mileage and the repair cost associated with a luxury car with 108,000 miles. I wanted a bit more acceleration, too.
I don't consider the repair cost excessive, but OTOH, I felt I could be driving a new or newer car for the same cost of ownership.
Over 2.5 years I spent about $6,000 including tires, battery, brakes, etc - the typical stuff. The price I paid was about $12,000. It is now worth about $6,000 - I hope. I am not, btw, addressing gas, oil change, or insurance which would be true with any car (But is not irrelevant to true cost of ownership - as opposed to riding a bicycle). Any car depreciates, I know.. and its all part of cost of ownership. So in the 2.5 years of ownership - I am within 5 days of exactly 2 years, 6 months, the car has cost me $12K, which works out to a little under $5K per year.
I really loved the Aurora; I consider the STS a big brother. There are many similarities. There are areas where the Aurora has an advantage. I had hoped to compile some of these differences, and I may get around to it (I would need to take notes for a week)
I will state that the acceleration is not 'night and day' faster, but it is a nice perk. The handling with its sensors on all wheels is notable. Its trunk space, while smaller in cubic feet, is actually more usable for certain things.
It does not display the date, which I miss. The STS, btw had to wait until 98 to get the Aurora chassis, not found on older STSs.
I am checking into some of the performance enhancements. If I get the new exhaust, intake, or K & N oil filter, I'll let you know, as it has been an area of interest for many readers here.
#5 of 33 What is LXE -- the primary ingredient in Lubegard by mrdetailer Aug 21, 2001 (09:29 am) What's an LXE® and why should you care?
LXE® is only found in LUBEGARD products.
The Problem: Automatic transmission failures went from less than a million units in 1972 to over eight million units a year by 1975.
The Reason: The 1972 ban on whaling ended the supply of Sperm Whale LXEs® (Liquid Wax Esters), which were used in fine lubricants and in transmission additives. Cheaper and readlily available lipid oils from lard were not nearly as stable or effective as additive replacements.
The Solution: LUBEGARD®…Vegetable sourced synthetic LXE® additives to replace the characteristics lost with the whales. These products were born of the genius of Dr. Philip Landis, distinguished former head of Mobil's applied research department. In 1988 LUBEGARD® was under way.
LXEs® are not like your typical cooking oil. They are not lipids. They are a specific family of straight chain esters that have a high molecular weight with only one ester link per molecule, not three like a lipid has. They transfer heat better, they dissove the varnishes and deposits other transmission fluid components leave behind; when properly derivatized they correct the low sliding speed clutch engagement where most shudder occurs, without extending engagement cycle times. They simply make the fluid perform better and last longer, extending the life of your transmission.
#7 of 33 My experience. by mrdetailer Aug 21, 2001 (09:55 am) I had a manual transmission that was difficult to shift. Believe it or not Subaru's manual recommended never changing the Manual Transmission fluid. At 90,000 it was simply too difficult to move. I replaced the fluid with synthetic. After a while it got noisy and I could feel a definite bounce when shifting into 2nd and 4th. It was most prevalent shifting from 5th back into 4th. I took it into Subaru specialists and they said it would just be a matter of time before the transmission would have to be replaced.
I recently heard about Lubegard at 120,000 miles, and had it installed when I changed the transmission oil at Jiffy Lube. It now shifts in much easier. The bounce and chatter when shifting are gone completely on normal shifts, and are greatly reduced in emergency quick downshifts. I've also put it into my son's 1997 Mazda with an automatic transmission. If not babied, these transmissions can fail. Both the Mazda mechanic, and the Transmission Specialist recommend draining fluid every 15,000 miles and putting Lubegard in. They both said most transmission problems are eliminated if Lubegard is added when the fluid is changed.
I was checking repair information on the Internet, and found that power steering is subject to heat and stress just like a transmission. I checked the powersteering fluid my cars, and on my son's. All but one smelled burnt. I was impressed by LXE's heat removing abilities and the fact that if mixed with fluid and heated, unlike most other products, it didn't form harmful acid. We had the powersteering flushed and then added their power steering additive. The steering seems a little bit smoother and quieter. But since they were working correctly to begin with I really can't expect a performance change. I feel more comfortable with the additional protection. The Manual Transmission Fluid was about $10.00, and the power steering was about $7.00 at NAPA auto parts.
Before I put this product in I researched to see if any fraud claims or lawsuits had been brought by the Federal Trade Commission like it has against Duralube, ZMAX, Prolong, and Slick50. They haven't.
#8 of 33 This is one of those rare products by bretfraz Aug 21, 2001 (01:17 pm) That actually lives up to its claims, so it seems. I have not used it but know several people who have and they all had good things to say about it. Especially for automatic trannies, Lubegard seems to be an excellent product. And at only $10 a bottle, it ain't gonna bankrupt no one.
Well, I dug out the old April 1994 Car and Driver. I always thought the new Aurora had very little in common with the classic. They just look so different. In seeing the pictures in C&D, I noticed a lot of similarity. The dash in front of the driver curves down into the center console in almost exactly the same way. The DIC, climate control, and radio are positioned almost exactly the same. They both have that beautiful maple-doored cubby in front of the shifter. The door handles and locks look exactly the same, but moved up some on the new car as the seat controls are moved to the seat. On the outside, both trunks angle down and to the back of the car, and both have curves along the edge. Mainly, the roundedness of the classic has turned into creases on the new car. But the shape is actually pretty similar (the change from gentle curves to sharp creases really makes them look different to me until I study the overall shape). The same chrome runs around the windows and the rear side windows are full length; no 1/4 window. I really think those both add an elegent touch (even thought it means the back windows don't go down very far).
There are some real gems in the article too:
Let's take a bit more time on this point, since the personality of a car depends so much on the way it makes its occupants feel. Some four-doors specialize in roominess. Not the Aurora. Instead, it surrounds you in new and exciting architecture. Sitting in the right-front seat, after driving, is a complete change of mood. Since the passenger has no need of dials and switches, the dash changes to smooth padding and recedes into the unthreatening distance. You have the sense of being enclosed, but not encroached upon. Other cars also try to do this, but the contours and spaces inside the Aurora are more interesting, more pleasing, more artful. Once the motion starts, two things impress the driver. First is the engine’s voice, a nicely muted moan of power as the revs rise under full throttle. The second is the solid feeling of the body.
Subjectively, it feels on par with the very best imports. Nothing quivers, nothing shakes, nothing drones.
Even the counterpoints, which usually include things like "This car bites, I hope the company goes to hell." can be rather easily dismissed. Here is one from Steve Spence: Mechanically, the Aurora drives and feels like a mid-range luxury car (the Lexus ES300, for one). Does it look like one? I don’t think so. The shortcomings involve seemingly insignificant details, but they add up: the leather could be richer and brighter, the seats more elegant, the dash less proletarian, the carpeting thicker and fitted more expansively—even the flat typeface used on the gauges should be sleeker. It will be interesting to see how the Aurora sells.
That's really not bad for a counterpoint. Much of it is personal taste or just stupid. Brighter leather? What is that? Same thing with more elegant seats. What does that really mean? I assume the carpet being more expansive refers to the mats, as the carpet probably goes everywhere. I doubt there is any exposed floorpan... The proletarian dash... Yeah, what were they thinking... And I suspect most people would rather have legible gauge typefaces than pretty ones. I also suspect that if the 1995 Aurora looked like a 1995 ES300, that none of you would be driving one now. (Forget about the sportiness, V8, and other things) The other counterpoints mostly deal with whether the Aurora brings GM out of the woods rather than with specific Aurora points.
Here are a few other clips: Generally, the Aurora feels poised rather than plush, and very competent at enthusiastic speeds.
If traction were the scale on which luxury cars were measured, Aurora, not Rolls-Royce, would be the envy of the masses.
Will Aurora lure all those Oldsmobile defectors back from Munich and Tokyo? No, nothing can bring them all back, because imports supply the boutique variety that affluent buyers seek. But Aurora will add a stop to many car-shopping trips. It's a credible entry in the luxury-car market. Moreover, it brings a two-yard-long list of features at a one-yard price.
Here is their verdict:
Highs: The V-8's sexy moan, the artful interior, what you get for the bucks.
Lows: Too much avoirdupois, (those bastards...) too little trunk.
The Verdict: A credible luxury car at a tempting price.
The rust in the washer fluid is from the bolts in it rusting. Replacing them and cleaning the reservoir (or just replacing it) will fix it. You should be able to get splashguards from your dealer for your Aurora. If not, just do an online search for splashguards. The paint code is probably under the spare tire cover if it isn't on the inside of the trunklid. The lubrication would be of the greasepoints on the suspension. You'd need a grease gun to put lube in any grease fittings you can find. Probably on the tie-rod ends and ball-joints, there might be some on the rear since the Aurora does have rear tie-rods. You should also consider using a spray lube on the door hinges, trunk hinges, hood hinges, and trunk/hood striker plates.
You might consider buying a service manual for your car. It would answer just about every question you just asked.
Oh yeah, also of note from the C&D article was that they had Michelin MXV4 tires (V-rated) on their Autobahn, and they tested it with 35/35 psi of inflation front/rear. I thought the pressure Olds recommends was 32/30 or 30/30 depending on the year (change between 96 and 97 that probably corresponds to some suspension changes). I wonder if trying 35/35 would result in a bit more bite and a bit firmer ride that some of you wanted from your 95-96 classics.
Also, another similarity I noticed is the way the dash flows into the doors. On both the classic and the new Aurora, the dash flows beautifully right into the passenger side door and armrest. But on the driver's side, it doesn't flow into the door. The dash turns down as part of the "cockpit" thing. On the classic, it does flow into the armrest, though. It doesn't really even do that on the new one. Probably in part because of the location of the door handles, and also the side vents being moved to the dash from the armrest.
The recommended pressure for my 98 is 30/30. I have experimented (I have Goodyear eagle ga) with pressures up to 40 psi. At 40 psi, the ride is harsh and handling is not really better than at 33-37 psi. At 35-36 psi the handling is a bit better and ride is only a little worse. So I usually run around 36 psi or so. (the maximum for the eagles is 44 psi)
black97- Your worrying me! I need to get my FPR fixed also. Hopefully mine doesnt explode by the time I get my next paycheck. How much did you pay?
Holley has an ajustable FPR that will fit on the Aurora. Is there an advantage to being ajustable on a stock aurora? If I had a differnt exhaust, k&n air filter, and a jetchip then would there be a reason to have this? If so I think Im going to get the Holley.
My 98 has no problems with the steering wheel being loose. I checked it today and it is firmly locked down.
A problem my 98 does have is a gurgle noise that comes from the sunroof. I thought all Aurora did this but Im starting to think they dont. It doesnt leak or anything, just makes an annoying noise.
I am hoping to put on new plugs and wires tonight if a friend of mine has some time to help.
So no one has the Jetchip installed on the Aurora?
Rjs - thanks for the post. The new Aurora did kind of take the classic interior and "bump it up a notch" It's reassuring that they did not scrap an incredible interior layout and just added some improvements. As for ANY references to to the ES 300 - that is a joke. I've driven a 99 a bit and there is no comparison to an Aurora. I really think there is something hypnotic about the flipping "L" on the car. It's a decked out Camry for crying out loud. Yikes. The new one is still a Camry looking car - and ugly IMHO as opposed to bland. Can you say "slab sided"? Yikes again.
Matrixfrog - forget the chip stuff. I used to think it was the the answer, but rjs posted a good article and these things seem to be a waste. I wouldn't believe the claims either. Just help the car breath and you will get lots of power. Exhaust and induction. It's simple and it works. Do both and you will be up to 270 HP easy. I would not be surprised if it was more. These car are really bottled up to keep intake and exhaust noise to zero all the time. You can open this up and still have a quiet cruise, and have an aggressive WOT sound with lots more power. The northstar has a lot of potential.
BLK97 - sorry to hear that. That foam on the cover would have probably burned nicely and would not have helped. Just a guess. How much does the thing weigh?? Maybe I'll lose it too. I thought it was light plastic.
Aftermarket wheels - you can get aftermarket new Aurora 17's for the classic. Don't buy from the dealer - they are 2k. I got a set from a company that strips the non-chrome 17's and then chromes them. I got them for $740. I'll be putting them on with new tires one of these days. I think the new Aurora 17's are great looking and would do the classic well and it's still Olds - kind of cool.
Aurorabill - hey, still post here to. You have a ready made exhaust available for your 98 STS from Corsa. I think your air box may be the same as the classic as well - open it up and also use that K&N. Burn rubber! Congrats on the STS! If Corsa's claims are right for the STS, with the exhaust and a better intake, you could be over 330 HP easy.
In addition to providing a tidier look to the engine, that cover is supposed to quiet the intake noise a bit. That's why it is backed with that thick foam. Did you notice any increase in engine noise when you removed it? Actually, the runners underneath look pretty cool.
Garnes, I think the new Camry/ES300 is pretty ugly too. I hate the bug-eyes the most. It has some proportion problem as well. It looks like a car that got squished front to rear and buldges up now. Not to mention the idea of a Camry that can cost over $32K... I wonder what the person who dropped $35K on the Lex would think of someone who spent $18K on a Camry and $50 on Lexus badging...
Rjs - Can you do that, or has that been known to be done? Just switch the badging?? If so, that is hilarious. I can see the temptation, because they really look so similar again. And yes, squished from the back and taller as a result. I think the doors and fenders were formed with an anvil too. 35k or whatever for a 3.0 V6 luxury Car is crazy. The only thing worse is the GS 300's basically go for over 40k. But hey the "L" sells I guess no matter the price.
Personally, a more fair or logical comparison would be the LS 400. These cars are more the same weight and performance. Apples to apples. When factoring price, the Aurora can't be beat there either.
The new 430's are impressive - but still boring and oh so pricey it's ridiculous.
garnes - thanks for the reply. I've heard that a new chip is absolutley needed when performance mods are done otherwise your computer will tell your car to run as it always has without the new mods. Also since we have electronic transmissions we can take advantage of the jetchip and its programable features. Of coarse I would be sure to get an intake and exhuast first. Does anyone here have the chip w/ intake and exhaust or know some of our caddy brothers wo do? Im interested in what they have to say about before and after they got it.
Anyone know what the % of HP loss on our automatics? I imagine it's around 20%? Just curious.
matrixfrog - you do not need a chip to realize the gain of a performance mod to the intake or exhaust. The computer perhaps would need to be reprogrammed for serious stuff like different heads and cam - but I don't think anybody is discussing such things here.
I modified the air box and also put a K&N in and dyno'd the results. The car put out more power. The computer is perfectly able to deal with the additional air flow. Same for exhaust. Corsa, Borla, Magnaflow and all the others have pretty well documented results without requireing any computer changes.
I'd just forget the chip and improve the intake and exhaust and have fun. Your car will perform just fine.
The head unit is full 2 DIN, I believe. It's got a different harness than the 1 1/2 DIN radios.
As far as the speakers, the rear ones are a snap, the front ones are a pain. Rear ones are each held in by 2 screws and then slide out of the lazy back. Why they made that thing out of fiberglass is beyond me, though. Make sure you seal the new speakers up against the deck lid or else you'll have poor bass response. I use that caulk on a string stuff that comes in rolls.
For the front speakers, you have to remove the door panels, then remove the map pockets from the door panels. The tweeters just snap out. If you have crossovers to mount for your separates, it's easy to just screw them to the door panel inside the map packet (I can take pics and send them). Mouting the driver is pretty easy, it mostly just screws into the existing location. You'll have to get a little creative with the tweeter depending on how it fits. I ended up placing them in some plastic grommets from a computer desk to get them to fill the factory holes.
Good luck - you can e-mail me privately if you have anymore questions (ryan@shucknet.com)
matrixfrog - oh, I forgot the other question about % loss.
When I dyno'd the stock box with a new paper filter I got 189 HP to 192 HP at the wheels. That's .756 and .768 respectively. Just for comparison, I saw a 2000 Corvette dyno'd on "Crank and Chrome". I think they got 265 HP at the wheels with a stock set-up. Even though it's a very different RWD car, it still comes out to be .757 - same as I got for the Aurora.
matrixfrog, Yes, it scared me too. I replaced the leaking fuel-pressure regulator tonight -- 15 minute job. List price at Cadillac/Olds dealer was $66.62; got it for $42.47 plus tax. Part number is 17113346; it is used on several GM engines. I do not know if it is available from after market suppliers. I see no need for an adjustable regulator unless higher-flow injectors have been fitted, and that would only make sense with significant intake and exhaust modifications.
My '97 doesn't make the sunroof gurgle sound you mention.
garnes: Sorry, I should have added a tongue-in-cheek symbol after my mention of weight regarding the engine cover. You're right about light-weight plastic; it doesn't weigh more than two pounds. See my response to rjs below. BTW, Olds lists this part as "shield, upper intake manifold sight."
You asked about how I liked the airbox mods. The used airbox I acquired from salvage did not have the white plastic insert in the top portion (I think this must have been from a '95). Since removing that restriction was the main modification I wanted to make, I haven't done more, yet. I may open up a larger intake hole, but I am holding out until I figure how to get a cold/forced air intake. I continue to follow your research. I am still considering removing the left fog lamp and using that hole for air intake. My other thought is installing a "scoop" I have from a Firebird; it would have to go under the bumper, and I think it will compromise ground clearance.
rjs200240, Yes, the manifold cover with its foam insulation is intended to muffle intake noise -- that is the reason I removed it. After removing it, I was able to hear the engine breathe -- sounding like it had more guts than a sewing machine. I guess I'm a 60s hot-rodder who hasn't grown up. The other reasons are that I hate non-functional doo-dads on cars, and the intake manifold is much more interesting to look at than that sterile cover (correction, sight shield). A big part of the reason I love the classic Aurora is its clean, uncluttered design. Of course, I had to go further, removing the hood emblem and the AURORA lettering from the rear deck lid, and blacking out the chrome trim around the side windows.
BLK 97 - the first thing I did was remove the "horn" attachment in the bottom section. That immediately exposed the hole under the air box. I did not cut the bottom plastic immediately. With the white plastic liner still on the top I noticed more sound from the intake by just removing the "horn"
Apparently those 3 drop tubes of varying length are there to cancel out sound. It's another useless doo-dad (unless you don't want to hear anything at all), and if you like a nice growl or want to add to it, just lose the horn from the bottom. You will get more air and more cool sound. It's silent at cruise. Removing the liner of course added more growl at WOT. Go for both.
Also - you might want to check out the ram air from the headlight some more. There is a nice strong current along the side of the fender at the seam between the top and bottom body panel. My original thought was that there is not enough current there and water might be a problem. If you take the headlight out, I'm sure something could be made to capture that air. If you did, I wonder if having the air horn back in would be better. It's hard to say. The engine is breathing pretty hard at WOT and I doubt you would be pushing air back out the bottom hole. If you take a look at it, give me your thoughts.
Granatelli is calibrating the MAF back to stock. If I ever go back to the dyno, I'll test this thing. It will essentially be a stock unit with the screen removed. I have no expectations at this point, but you never know. It might help a little. It's staying in the box as long as it's not tested though.
I would suggest looking on the trunk. Never had to look up the pain code though. I think Zinc had them on his website somewhere. http://members.fortunecity.com/zincster
mariposarosada : i also have a '95, and the sticker with the codes was located on the inside of the right rear quarter panel, inside the trunk. what you need to do it pull the carpeting out from the right rear corner and look towards the back of the car. you have to stick your head waaaaaay inside the trunk and really look upwards to see it, it's definately not the most convienent place for a sticker.
You start by removing all screws from the center console which are inside, I think there is six total using a phillips screw driver (I used a Snap On rachet screw driver, love that tool, $40 something dollars at SnapOn.com) anyway unplug the console which is hooked up to a 194 bulb that lights up the inside of the console, then go over to the ash tray remove it from it's place there is 2 small screws also phillips, by now everything pretty much should be loose pull up the center shifter console piece, it's not going to come out fully, you have to go underneat of it from where you removed the CD console or remove the U style pin behind the leather shifter and slowly with enough force pull out the whole shifter, or go through where you keep your CD's and sparechange and go in thru there. At this point is really about feeling underneath for the housing of the bulb, unplug the piece where the light bulb goes for the shifter and you should be able to see the little light bulb, just pull it out. After that I did not stop there, I when in more inside and found the other bulb a 194 that lit up the center shifter console and replaced it with an L.E.D. bulb for a bluish one, it gave it a different look that actually matched my Kenwood eXcelon CD player (KCDX817). Well hope that helps, let me know how it turns out for you?
I would like the horn to toot when I lock or unlock my 95 Classic....any of you been crafty enough to do this and be willing to explain how you did it....
I know the dealer can do it. And I doubt that they would charge you to change the cars response. I had mine changed so that the doors would not unlock when the engine is turned off. I kept the automatic door locking when shifting gears.
My car alarm cherps and the light shines when I unlock it with the remote control.
Beachlover - it's in your user's manual...at least it is for my 99. Not the service manual, just the regular owner's manual that came w/the car. Pretty interesting procedure...
There should be an Aurora Collector's Edition being produced in May 2003. I suspect it will have features similar to the Intrigue Collector's Edition: http://www.oldsmobile.com/intrigue/collector.html which is to say, different paint and some badging. Perhaps the Aurora will step up to 18" wheels (I doubt it). It would be cool if they dropped a 4.6 into it, but I seriously doubt that will happen.
Interestingly the Intrigue version is based on the GL, not the GLS, so there is no PCS or Bose stereo. Strange. At least they can't base the Aurora Collector's Edition on the 3.5 since it won't be around after the 2002 MY.
For over a year I've been driving around with only the automatic door locks with the shifter. When I unlock w/the remote, the interior lights come on, but that's all. Guess I got some more toys to play with....
Heh, I tried a web search for "aurora personalization" and came up with a whole bunch of links. Unfortunately they were all about personalized Aurora caskets...
Does the classic's procedures involve like pushing the brake pedal x amount of times and such? A lot of the GM cars, especially from the 90's are like that. I thought it was pretty inventive to set those features with the controls that every driver has...
All of the personalization is foud in the Aurora owners manual. Zinc had his owners manual scanned and I think it's still availible on his website. http://member.fortunecity.com/zincster
javidogg- thanks for the help. While I'm at it I can clean out the shift display that tells me what gear Im in. That console light has never worked since I bought it.
Does anybody know what the part number for the thin piece of black plastic that the shifter sits in? Mine has had a crack in it since I bought it. Not to mention the time a McDonalds BBQ sauce was sitting on it and I shifted it into park causing it to implode. It got all over but I got that all cleaned out.
Aurora owners can now sign up for GMLink. It's at www.mygmlink.com and it is pretty interesting. You can use it to keep track of maintenance stuff and such. I guess they just added Olds to it. At first it was just Pontiac and GMC. It's pretty neat. They have an online version of the owner's manual too, and for some cars the service manuals (not mine, though).
I just went through my 1995's manual and I don't see anything about an audio indication (i.e., horn toot) on locking or unlocking with the remote. The only thing listed was the ability to select having the doors unlock when shifting into park or stay locked.
If someone can post the exact procedure to activate the horn when using the remote, it would be great!
the manual for my 98 classic has a section on reprogramming the locks. Whether the horn beeps when you use the remote to lock or unlock (several options)interior lighting options, whether the doors lock when you put the car into motion etc. I am not at home to look up the procedure but you might also consider ordering a later models manual as they are more complete in several respects than the earlier manuals (98 or 99). You program the FEATURES by using the door lock button on the door in conjuction with the remote (if memory serves me).
I'm not sure the '95 had the same horn/beep etc. on locking/unlocking feature as the later models. As I recall it seems Henri's got an aftermarket security system.
Has anyone found an effective way to clean the Classic's front valve cover? Mine has spots of yellow (seem like they may be from engine oil, but some are in places (around the spark plug holes) where I wouldn't expect oil to be) and gray (mostly aligned with the (original) spark plug wires). I have tried mild detergent and wax; both help but don't remove the stains.
I dont' have an aftermarket alarm system. It is the GM alrm system that came witht he car from the dealer. As I said before, the dealer can program the alarm to toot the horn and flash the lights. The dealer did this for me when I first got the car (he asked me what I wanted the alrm to do.)
Also, Jerry, the tech at from Norman Gale Olds (New Jersey), reprogramed his 1995 alarm to do the same toot and flash.
I also mention that the 1995 does have a panic button feature on the alarm. A few posts back, it was incorrectly stated that this option was added in the 1996 model year.
I just recalled you mentioning you had a switch under the steering wheel to shut off an alarm and I'd never heard of that before as an option on the Aurora's. Perhaps it was a dealer installed GM option. Never-the-less, it sounds as if the '95 has the programing available, it just wasn't in the owner's manual.
Sure sounds as if everyone, myself included, with a 95 (without factory alarm) wants the horn to toot...otherwise we have to lock the car from less than 2 feet away to either hear the lock or see the int. lights to know we really locked our "baby". Unfortunately not one of us has figured out how to do this, or is keeping it a secret so we are all envious. I'm exploring the idea of a 12V electronic chirper with a momentary switch hooked to the lock power. Only drawback being a chirp everytime I go in and out of park...
Comments
The fog lights will come on with either the parking lights or the low-beam headlights. They are turned off w/ the high beams.
Enjoy your car!
Larryfl--Did replacing your shocks make much of a difference? Perhaps I should take it to have the front end inspected.
The shocks made a significant difference in the ride. I replaced all four w/ Monroe Sensa-tracs (rear-air adjustable). But the washboard "shuffle" didn't change much. I really think it's just the way the front end's designed.
According to Consumer Reports, 1997 was the reliable year for the classic edition. It gets a red check (versus a black "average" check for the 1999 and below average for all the others). That alone makes me still slightly interested.
A flash flame erupted from the valve cover grommet adjacent to the oil-filler cap. It melted, shredded, and scattered about 1.5 square feet of the hood insulator. I was lucky as the flame self extinguished. I didn't even have the opportunity to use my Halon fire extinguisher. There appears to be no other damage. I reinserted the plastic PCV pipe back into the grommet and the engine runs fine. I will not restart it until I replace the FPR and blow excess gasoline fumes out of the crankcase.
BTW, I removed the engine cover long ago as an appearance only, weight-adding item. Had it been in place, it and its foam rubber padding would probably have absorbed the brunt of the explosion, instead of the hood insulator. Would this have been better or worse? I don't know.
The main reason for moving from the 95 Aurora was the mileage and the repair cost associated with a luxury car with 108,000 miles. I wanted a bit more acceleration, too.
I don't consider the repair cost excessive, but OTOH, I felt I could be driving a new or newer car for the same cost of ownership.
Over 2.5 years I spent about $6,000 including tires, battery, brakes, etc - the typical stuff. The price I paid was about $12,000. It is now worth about $6,000 - I hope. I am not, btw, addressing gas, oil change, or insurance which would be true with any car (But is not irrelevant to true cost of ownership - as opposed to riding a bicycle). Any car depreciates, I know.. and its all part of cost of ownership. So in the 2.5 years of ownership - I am within 5 days of exactly 2 years, 6 months, the car has cost me $12K, which works out to a little under $5K per year.
I really loved the Aurora; I consider the STS a big brother. There are many similarities. There are areas where the Aurora has an advantage. I had hoped to compile some of these differences, and I may get around to it (I would need to take notes for a week)
I will state that the acceleration is not 'night and day' faster, but it is a nice perk. The handling with its sensors on all wheels is notable. Its trunk space, while smaller in cubic feet, is actually more usable for certain things.
It does not display the date, which I miss. The STS, btw had to wait until 98 to get the Aurora chassis, not found on older STSs.
I am checking into some of the performance enhancements. If I get the new exhaust, intake, or K & N oil filter, I'll let you know, as it has been an area of interest for many readers here.
Aurorabill (at least for now!)
What's an LXE® and why should you care?
LXE® is only found in LUBEGARD products.
The Problem: Automatic transmission failures went from less than a million units in 1972 to over eight million units a year by 1975.
The Reason: The 1972 ban on whaling ended the supply of Sperm Whale LXEs® (Liquid Wax Esters), which were used in fine lubricants and in transmission additives. Cheaper and readlily available lipid oils from lard were not nearly as stable or effective as additive replacements.
The Solution: LUBEGARD®…Vegetable sourced synthetic LXE® additives to replace the characteristics lost with the whales. These products were born of the genius of Dr. Philip Landis, distinguished former head of Mobil's applied research department. In 1988 LUBEGARD® was under way.
LXEs® are not like your typical cooking oil. They are not lipids. They are a specific family of straight chain esters that have a high molecular weight with only one ester link per molecule, not three like a lipid has. They transfer heat better, they dissove the varnishes and deposits other transmission fluid components leave behind; when properly derivatized they correct the low sliding speed clutch engagement where most shudder occurs, without extending engagement cycle times. They simply make the fluid perform better and last longer, extending the life of your transmission.
#7 of 33 My experience. by mrdetailer Aug 21, 2001 (09:55 am)
I had a manual transmission that was difficult to shift. Believe it or not Subaru's manual recommended never changing the Manual Transmission fluid. At 90,000 it was simply too difficult to move. I replaced the fluid with synthetic. After a while it got noisy and I could feel a definite bounce when shifting into 2nd and 4th. It was most prevalent shifting from 5th back into 4th. I took it into Subaru specialists and they said it would just be a matter of time before the transmission would have to be replaced.
I recently heard about Lubegard at 120,000 miles, and had it installed when I changed the transmission oil at Jiffy Lube. It now shifts in much easier. The bounce and chatter when shifting are gone completely on normal shifts, and are greatly reduced in emergency quick downshifts.
I've also put it into my son's 1997 Mazda with an automatic transmission. If not babied, these transmissions can fail. Both the Mazda mechanic, and the Transmission Specialist recommend draining fluid every 15,000 miles and putting Lubegard in. They both said most transmission problems are eliminated if Lubegard is added when the fluid is changed.
I was checking repair information on the Internet, and found that power steering is subject to heat and stress just like a transmission. I checked the powersteering fluid my cars, and on my son's. All but one smelled burnt. I was impressed by LXE's heat removing abilities and the fact that if mixed with fluid and heated, unlike most other products, it didn't form harmful acid. We had the powersteering flushed and then added their power steering additive. The steering seems a little bit smoother and quieter. But since they were working correctly to begin with I really can't expect a performance change. I feel more comfortable with the additional protection.
The Manual Transmission Fluid was about $10.00, and the power steering was about $7.00 at NAPA auto parts.
Before I put this product in I researched to see if any fraud claims or lawsuits had been brought by the Federal Trade Commission like it has against Duralube, ZMAX, Prolong, and Slick50. They haven't.
#8 of 33 This is one of those rare products by bretfraz Aug 21, 2001 (01:17 pm)
That actually lives up to its claims, so it seems. I have not used it but know several people who have and they all had good things to say about it.
Especially for automatic trannies, Lubegard seems to be an excellent product. And at only $10 a bottle, it ain't gonna bankrupt no one.
There are some real gems in the article too:
Let's take a bit more time on this point, since the personality of a car depends so much on the way it makes its occupants feel. Some four-doors specialize in roominess. Not the Aurora. Instead, it surrounds you in new and exciting architecture. Sitting in the right-front seat, after driving, is a complete change of mood. Since the passenger has no need of dials and switches, the dash changes to smooth padding and recedes into the unthreatening distance. You have the sense of being enclosed, but not encroached upon. Other cars also try to do this, but the contours and spaces inside the Aurora are more interesting, more pleasing, more artful.
Once the motion starts, two things impress the driver. First is the engine’s voice, a nicely muted moan of power as the revs rise under full throttle. The second is the solid feeling of the body.
Subjectively, it feels on par with the very best imports. Nothing quivers, nothing shakes, nothing drones.
Even the counterpoints, which usually include things like "This car bites, I hope the company goes to hell." can be rather easily dismissed. Here is one from Steve Spence:
Mechanically, the Aurora drives and feels like a mid-range luxury car (the Lexus ES300, for one). Does it look like one? I don’t think so. The shortcomings involve seemingly insignificant details, but they add up: the leather could be richer and brighter, the seats more elegant, the dash less proletarian, the carpeting thicker and fitted more expansively—even the flat typeface used on the gauges should be sleeker. It will be interesting to see how the Aurora sells.
That's really not bad for a counterpoint. Much of it is personal taste or just stupid. Brighter leather? What is that? Same thing with more elegant seats. What does that really mean? I assume the carpet being more expansive refers to the mats, as the carpet probably goes everywhere. I doubt there is any exposed floorpan... The proletarian dash... Yeah, what were they thinking... And I suspect most people would rather have legible gauge typefaces than pretty ones. I also suspect that if the 1995 Aurora looked like a 1995 ES300, that none of you would be driving one now.
Here are a few other clips:
Generally, the Aurora feels poised rather than plush, and very competent at enthusiastic speeds.
If traction were the scale on which luxury cars were measured, Aurora, not Rolls-Royce, would be the envy of the masses.
Will Aurora lure all those Oldsmobile defectors back from Munich and Tokyo? No, nothing can bring them all back, because imports supply the boutique variety that affluent buyers seek. But Aurora will add a stop to many car-shopping trips. It's a credible entry in the luxury-car market. Moreover, it brings a two-yard-long list of features at a one-yard price.
Here is their verdict:
Highs: The V-8's sexy moan, the artful interior, what you get for the bucks.
Lows: Too much avoirdupois, (those bastards...) too little trunk.
The Verdict: A credible luxury car at a tempting price.
1. I want to remove the cupholder so I can clean it. How do I get it out?
2. I'd like to replace the head unit. Does anyone have directions on getting the radio out?
3. I'm also replacing the speakers. Is it difficult to get the old ones (front door/rear deck) out? Does anyone have directions on doing this?
4. Where can I find the paint code on the vehicle? The dealer says in the trunk, but I can't find it.
5. Does Oldsmobile make special mudflaps to fit the Aurora?
6. The washer fluid reservior is rusty. Has anyone successfully cleaned or replaced this? If so, was it difficult?
7. The manaul recommends having certain parts of the car lubricated every so often. Exactly what parts need to have this done?
Your suggestions are appreciated.
You might consider buying a service manual for your car. It would answer just about every question you just asked.
Oh yeah, also of note from the C&D article was that they had Michelin MXV4 tires (V-rated) on their Autobahn, and they tested it with 35/35 psi of inflation front/rear. I thought the pressure Olds recommends was 32/30 or 30/30 depending on the year (change between 96 and 97 that probably corresponds to some suspension changes). I wonder if trying 35/35 would result in a bit more bite and a bit firmer ride that some of you wanted from your 95-96 classics.
Also, another similarity I noticed is the way the dash flows into the doors. On both the classic and the new Aurora, the dash flows beautifully right into the passenger side door and armrest. But on the driver's side, it doesn't flow into the door. The dash turns down as part of the "cockpit" thing. On the classic, it does flow into the armrest, though. It doesn't really even do that on the new one. Probably in part because of the location of the door handles, and also the side vents being moved to the dash from the armrest.
Holley has an ajustable FPR that will fit on the Aurora. Is there an advantage to being ajustable on a stock aurora? If I had a differnt exhaust, k&n air filter, and a jetchip then would there be a reason to have this? If so I think Im going to get the Holley.
My 98 has no problems with the steering wheel being loose. I checked it today and it is firmly locked down.
A problem my 98 does have is a gurgle noise that comes from the sunroof. I thought all Aurora did this but Im starting to think they dont. It doesnt leak or anything, just makes an annoying noise.
I am hoping to put on new plugs and wires tonight if a friend of mine has some time to help.
So no one has the Jetchip installed on the Aurora?
Matrixfrog - forget the chip stuff. I used to think it was the the answer, but rjs posted a good article and these things seem to be a waste. I wouldn't believe the claims either. Just help the car breath and you will get lots of power. Exhaust and induction. It's simple and it works. Do both and you will be up to 270 HP easy. I would not be surprised if it was more. These car are really bottled up to keep intake and exhaust noise to zero all the time. You can open this up and still have a quiet cruise, and have an aggressive WOT sound with lots more power. The northstar has a lot of potential.
BLK97 - sorry to hear that. That foam on the cover would have probably burned nicely and would not have helped. Just a guess. How much does the thing weigh?? Maybe I'll lose it too. I thought it was light plastic.
Aftermarket wheels - you can get aftermarket new Aurora 17's for the classic. Don't buy from the dealer - they are 2k. I got a set from a company that strips the non-chrome 17's and then chromes them. I got them for $740. I'll be putting them on with new tires one of these days. I think the new Aurora 17's are great looking and would do the classic well and it's still Olds - kind of cool.
Aurorabill - hey, still post here to. You have a ready made exhaust available for your 98 STS from Corsa. I think your air box may be the same as the classic as well - open it up and also use that K&N. Burn rubber! Congrats on the STS! If Corsa's claims are right for the STS, with the exhaust and a better intake, you could be over 330 HP easy.
Garnes, I think the new Camry/ES300 is pretty ugly too. I hate the bug-eyes the most. It has some proportion problem as well. It looks like a car that got squished front to rear and buldges up now. Not to mention the idea of a Camry that can cost over $32K... I wonder what the person who dropped $35K on the Lex would think of someone who spent $18K on a Camry and $50 on Lexus badging...
Personally, a more fair or logical comparison would be the LS 400. These cars are more the same weight and performance. Apples to apples. When factoring price, the Aurora can't be beat there either.
The new 430's are impressive - but still boring and oh so pricey it's ridiculous.
Anyone know what the % of HP loss on our automatics? I imagine it's around 20%? Just curious.
I modified the air box and also put a K&N in and dyno'd the results. The car put out more power. The computer is perfectly able to deal with the additional air flow. Same for exhaust. Corsa, Borla, Magnaflow and all the others have pretty well documented results without requireing any computer changes.
I'd just forget the chip and improve the intake and exhaust and have fun. Your car will perform just fine.
As far as the speakers, the rear ones are a snap, the front ones are a pain. Rear ones are each held in by 2 screws and then slide out of the lazy back. Why they made that thing out of fiberglass is beyond me, though. Make sure you seal the new speakers up against the deck lid or else you'll have poor bass response. I use that caulk on a string stuff that comes in rolls.
For the front speakers, you have to remove the door panels, then remove the map pockets from the door panels. The tweeters just snap out. If you have crossovers to mount for your separates, it's easy to just screw them to the door panel inside the map packet (I can take pics and send them). Mouting the driver is pretty easy, it mostly just screws into the existing location. You'll have to get a little creative with the tweeter depending on how it fits. I ended up placing them in some plastic grommets from a computer desk to get them to fill the factory holes.
Good luck - you can e-mail me privately if you have anymore questions (ryan@shucknet.com)
Ryan
Good luck.
http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalOldsAurora.htm
When I dyno'd the stock box with a new paper filter I got 189 HP to 192 HP at the wheels. That's .756 and .768 respectively. Just for comparison, I saw a 2000 Corvette dyno'd on "Crank and Chrome". I think they got 265 HP at the wheels with a stock set-up. Even though it's a very different RWD car, it still comes out to be .757 - same as I got for the Aurora.
Yes, it scared me too. I replaced the leaking fuel-pressure regulator tonight -- 15 minute job. List price at Cadillac/Olds dealer was $66.62; got it for $42.47 plus tax. Part number is 17113346; it is used on several GM engines. I do not know if it is available from after market suppliers. I see no need for an adjustable regulator unless higher-flow injectors have been fitted, and that would only make sense with significant intake and exhaust modifications.
My '97 doesn't make the sunroof gurgle sound you mention.
garnes:
Sorry, I should have added a tongue-in-cheek symbol after my mention of weight regarding the engine cover. You're right about light-weight plastic; it doesn't weigh more than two pounds. See my response to rjs below. BTW, Olds lists this part as "shield, upper intake manifold sight."
You asked about how I liked the airbox mods. The used airbox I acquired from salvage did not have the white plastic insert in the top portion (I think this must have been from a '95). Since removing that restriction was the main modification I wanted to make, I haven't done more, yet. I may open up a larger intake hole, but I am holding out until I figure how to get a cold/forced air intake. I continue to follow your research. I am still considering removing the left fog lamp and using that hole for air intake. My other thought is installing a "scoop" I have from a Firebird; it would have to go under the bumper, and I think it will compromise ground clearance.
rjs200240,
Yes, the manifold cover with its foam insulation is intended to muffle intake noise -- that is the reason I removed it. After removing it, I was able to hear the engine breathe -- sounding like it had more guts than a sewing machine. I guess I'm a 60s hot-rodder who hasn't grown up. The other reasons are that I hate non-functional doo-dads on cars, and the intake manifold is much more interesting to look at than that sterile cover (correction, sight shield). A big part of the reason I love the classic Aurora is its clean, uncluttered design. Of course, I had to go further, removing the hood emblem and the AURORA lettering from the rear deck lid, and blacking out the chrome trim around the side windows.
Apparently those 3 drop tubes of varying length are there to cancel out sound. It's another useless doo-dad (unless you don't want to hear anything at all), and if you like a nice growl or want to add to it, just lose the horn from the bottom. You will get more air and more cool sound. It's silent at cruise. Removing the liner of course added more growl at WOT. Go for both.
Also - you might want to check out the ram air from the headlight some more. There is a nice strong current along the side of the fender at the seam between the top and bottom body panel. My original thought was that there is not enough current there and water might be a problem. If you take the headlight out, I'm sure something could be made to capture that air. If you did, I wonder if having the air horn back in would be better. It's hard to say. The engine is breathing pretty hard at WOT and I doubt you would be pushing air back out the bottom hole. If you take a look at it, give me your thoughts.
Granatelli is calibrating the MAF back to stock. If I ever go back to the dyno, I'll test this thing. It will essentially be a stock unit with the screen removed. I have no expectations at this point, but you never know. It might help a little. It's staying in the box as long as it's not tested though.
Eric
i also have a '95, and the sticker with the codes was located on the inside of the right rear quarter panel, inside the trunk.
what you need to do it pull the carpeting out from the right rear corner and look towards the back of the car. you have to stick your head waaaaaay inside the trunk and really look upwards to see it, it's definately not the most convienent place for a sticker.
My car alarm cherps and the light shines when I unlock it with the remote control.
henri
Interestingly the Intrigue version is based on the GL, not the GLS, so there is no PCS or Bose stereo. Strange. At least they can't base the Aurora Collector's Edition on the 3.5 since it won't be around after the 2002 MY.
http://gmcanada.com/english/vehicles/oldsmobile/aurora/auro_showroom.html
There are flash presentations and all. The American Aurora page really sucks in comparison... How annoying.
On top of that, an Aurora equipped just like mine would only be (MSRP) $32,900 in US dollars compared to about $37,500 for the US MSRP... Man...
For over a year I've been driving around with only the automatic door locks with the shifter. When I unlock w/the remote, the interior lights come on, but that's all. Guess I got some more toys to play with....
Does the classic's procedures involve like pushing the brake pedal x amount of times and such? A lot of the GM cars, especially from the 90's are like that. I thought it was pretty inventive to set those features with the controls that every driver has...
javidogg- thanks for the help. While I'm at it I can clean out the shift display that tells me what gear Im in. That console light has never worked since I bought it.
Does anybody know what the part number for the thin piece of black plastic that the shifter sits in? Mine has had a crack in it since I bought it. Not to mention the time a McDonalds BBQ sauce was sitting on it and I shifted it into park causing it to implode. It got all over but I got that all cleaned out.
The only thing listed was the ability to select having the doors unlock when shifting into park or stay locked.
If someone can post the exact procedure to activate the horn when using the remote, it would be great!
Thanks,
Jim
Also, Jerry, the tech at from Norman Gale Olds (New Jersey), reprogramed his 1995 alarm to do the same toot and flash.
I also mention that the 1995 does have a panic button feature on the alarm. A few posts back, it was incorrectly stated that this option was added in the 1996 model year.
Let the light of truth shine through!
Henri
So you need to have the factory alarm system to toot the horn when using the remote.
Bummer -- I don't have that.
Jim
http://members.fortunecity.com/zincster/96manual/manual2-10.jpg
The manual is for a 1996 Aurora.