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Oldsmobile Aurora

15859616364112

Comments

  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    rocket 3_50 - If you are going from Cincinnati to Chicago, then Indianapolis is on the way. The Indy 500 racetrack has a nice museum. Southern Indiana is a pretty drive along 74. In Chicago, the museums are world class all the way. Check out the Shedd aquarium that has recently been expanded with Whale exhibits and a lot more. It's incredible. You will also be within walking distance of the Natural History museum too, and the art museum is not far.

    larryfl - When the dealer did not "burp" the cooling system correctly after a water pump job, it locked and overheated immediately. The computer oil life went to zero and it said I had to change it NOW. There was no affect on the tranny fluid display. Did the car get really hot somehow or was it subjected to some harsh use? With the tranny also saying zero it sounds like something else is going on if the car did not experience anything unusual.
  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    Well, just replaced fuel pressure regulator, (68.00) dealer said EGR valve not working properly, took off valve, plunger side of valve was very carboned up plunger not seating properly. Soaked bottom of valve in goof off for one hour and used Q-tips to swab and push out junk. So much carbon in valve I wonder if from previously bad wires and FPR. Oh well. Reinstalled valve car purrs like kitten, Roars like, well you know! Tiny quarter inch crack sealed with high temp. plastic epoxy mender so far so good. Did you know if you interrupt (open) circuit to coolant tank level switch, you can manually cause fan to switch on? But low coolant warning comes on DIC when ignition on and though hitting recall switch turns off warning you NO LONGER HAVE ACCURATE WARNING OF LOW COOLANT LEVEL. Just a thought. 98 classic K&N filter w/airbox mods. STS rear bar (Dealer wanted 150 we settled on 90 dollars) Poly- urethane bushings front and rear end links.
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    There called Lexani Roma 18x8" all chrome, web page for Lexani.

    Click HERE to see it."

    These is the website were I purchased mine.

    Click HERE to see it."
  • rocket3_50rocket3_50 Posts: 42
    Thanks for the suggestions. We'll definitely plan on hwy 74 and the Shedd Aquarium.

    Others with the New Classic - - I took my 2K1 in to replace the driver's side heated seat rocker switch, under warranty. The dealer had no problem with removing the wood trim on the console nor with installing the new rocker switch. But, returning the wood trim back to the console chipped the edge of the wood trim. Apparently it's a pretty forceful snap-in fit. The dealer reports that this has happened to them twice. They'll replace it, of course, at no charge. But for you do-it-yourselfers, be careful if you attempt to remove/reinstall the console wood trim.
    Ken
  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Posts: 181
    javi -thanks for the link. I looked at the site and saw they sold neepers. I've always wanted a set of Neeper Fly's. Maybe with my new job this summer I might be able to afford them.


    http://www.superbuytires.com/wheels_by_brand.html?stage=2&brand=Neeper&model=Fly&id=6150

  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    Those chrome Neeper Fly's are cool, but I also like the new Neeper Daggs Click here to see them.

    If I find a buyer for my 18 inch Lexani's, I'm going to look for a good deal on some Lexani Synergy size 20 inch, Click here to see it"
  • dtlr077dtlr077 Posts: 6
    I was wondering if it's possible to change the fuel pressure regulator on a 1995 Aurora. The service manual states that it is not serviceable and the entire fuel rail must be replaced with the regulator. I was hoping someone might know, since this sounds like a common problem. My symptoms (hard starting with warm engine, rough idle with warm engine) seem to point to it.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    an aftermarket wheels thread... Just kidding. Have you guys considered the 18" Speedline GT-One wheels that are on the STSi Pace Car? They have a sort of factory yet custom look. They might not look as good on the Aurora, though. However, they'd have some GM significance instead of some wheels you'd be as likely to find on a Civic. Or maybe some wheels styled like the Aurora IRL cars (I think they are BBS, but I'm not positive).

    My opinion would be that the wheels ought to work with the car. If you just pick wheels that look cool by themselves and stick them on some car, then the wheels won't have a look that goes along with the car. This makes them stand out more, but in the same way painting the car bright orange would. Personally, I think if they work with the car and accentuate it but don't stand out from it, that's the best choice. That's just my opinion, though. Actually, that's why I've never really cared for spoilers or lower-body cladding. It's the same recipe for every car. Body kits for an Aurora are just like body kits for a Civic or Accord except they are fitted to the dimensions of the car. They don't really work with the style or accentuate the style. It's the same add-on look as on any other car. I think subtle change that accentuates is better.

    Like, look at the add-ons for Corvettes (ok, so I like Corvettes...) You see a 1990 Corvette with a spoiler and it looks like crap. You see a 1990 Corvette with gold wire rims, some front air-dam, and side skirts and it looks like crap. You see a 1990 Callaway Corvette with the Aerobody, and it looks so freaking awesome that you can hardly walk straight. This is because the Aerobody accentuates the car. It wouldn't look right on a Civic or Accord or even a Camaro. It is made just for that Corvette body, and it really works with the Corvette's lines to make a better looking car. It looks factory yet custom because of how well it works. It's integrated enough that it could be a factory effort, yet it is cool enough that it's obviously custom. Anyway, that's just my opinion. So feel free to disregard it. Even if you put Civic-candidate wheels on you cars, you still have to post some pictures so we can see it!

    dtlr077: Scroll back about 20-40 messages (maybe more) and you'll find some info about the fuel pressure regulator. If your 1995 has the regulator built into the fuel rail, then there isn't much you can do. However, it might be that it can be removed seperately, but GM doesn't do it that way. One way to tell would be to see if you can buy the FPR by itself or if it comes with the fuel rail too. Either that, or look at it on your car.
  • Can anyone recommend good aftermarket suspension components for the front of a 95 classic to significantly firm up the ride? I don't like the wallowy feel of what's there right now. I'd like to leave the back end alone, since it's the air thing and all.

    Incidentally, I piled 4 people in the back yesterday to go to church. The air shocks kicked in and held their own--though the back passengers were wondering what the noise was. Anyway, your recommendations are appreciated. Also, any idea on the cost? Figure both components and labor.
  • rhale2rhale2 Posts: 8
    I have changed the FPR on my 95 without replacing fuel rail. Manual says to disconnect battery(to preclude anyone turning on ingnition/fuel pump),loosen fuel filler cap, release fuel pressure from fuel rail. There is a fitting on the fuel rail itself for this. Remove snap clip that holds FPR onto rail, remove manifold vacuum hose. Reverse for installation.

    The whole process takes maybe 1/2 hour once you figre out where everything is. And it does make a huge difference in performance!!
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Most of you probably know that before my Aurora, I drove a Corvette. It was a 1987 with the Z51 performance and handling package and a manual transmission. The engine made 240 hp, but a more impressive 345 lb-ft of torque at a mere 3200 rpm. There was a lot of low-down grunt to it, and it had a lot of grip in the twists. However, the Aurora is no slouch either.

    The last few days I’ve been driving a bit more enthusiastically than most. Specifically, there were two drives, one a few days ago on a beautiful, twisty wooded road that runs through some million dollar neighborhoods (I don’t live there), and a second one on a nice fat 55mph 4-6 lane divided road that has occasional red lights, occasional pockets of traffic, and occasional open straights that make working through the pockets well worth it.

    Driving down that twisty road was incredible. The temperature was about 72, and the front windows were down with the sunroof open. Trees shaded most of the road. My speeds were anywhere from 25-55mph. But it was the changing of speeds that was the best. On the brakes for a sharp turn and the car slows beautifully. Very linear, and there was always more braking if I needed it. Running through the turns, light on the accelerator until I break out of them, and the car leaned a bit. However, the lean was perfect. It let you know what was going on with the car, but it wasn’t unwelcome or upsetting. The Corvette didn’t lean ever. It was very hard to tell if the car could take more or not. The Aurora had great feedback. There were a lot of elevation changes too, which made it all the more enjoyable. Come out of a slow turn, and punch it up a rising straightaway. The whole time, the sun breaking through tree branches is dancing on the hood, and the soft leather on that thick steering wheel is giving ever so slightly under your grip. It’s magical. The soft rush of the wind is the perfect compliment to the engine’s changing beat. The Bose stereo is excellent, but it has nothing on the soundtrack coming from that V-8.

    On to the straights. The temperature was about 86, just cool enough to have the front windows down and the sunroof tilted. As long as the air is moving, it’s comfortable. The Solar-Ray glass in the sunroof is repelling those pummeling sun rays, while still letting the air to move through the cabin. No chances to race anyone from the lights because no one seems to care. But it would’ve just gotten in the way of my enjoyment of the car. Running in a pack of cars, trying to get to the front for the next red light, the Aurora is a joy. Push the gas to squeeze in an opening, and the car instantly responds. No need to even downshift. It’s worth it when you emerge from that pocket of traffic and are first at the next light. The light changes and you push the pedal about 70%. The car pulls effortlessly away from the crowd. As the road opens up, the pedal can be pushed even more. No cross-streets for a while now. Start pushing the throttle more and the car stays in gear pulling towards 3000 rpm. The sound is building as the force starts really pushing. Then you dig into it. The car instantly responds with a lightning quick downshift. Who needs the hassle of a manual when you have an automatic like this one. The car is in the 4000’s now. At about 4500 rpm the engine explodes both into hard-charging acceleration as well as into a beautiful song. This is the kind of song you just have to hear live. No recording could capture it. No speaker could reproduce its beauty. And the song just gets better as the climb continues strongly up into the 6000’s. A firm shift and it starts all over again. Who could ever tire of this? By contrast, the Corvette pulls hard as you start out. You don’t even need to downshift to pull away or to pass. In the 2000-3000 range, it can’t be beat. But once you do downshift, the reward is small. As the engine pulls into the 4000’s, the power climbs a bit but then tapers off. By about 4800, there isn’t much point in continuing. The power drops off and the car feels like an asthmatic. You can push it to 5600, but it sounds like it’s in its death throws. The engine has a low growl, but it’s very blurred together. As the revs climb, it just gets louder, not better. That Aurora V-8 isn’t like that at all. You can almost hear each cylinder firing and then burbling out the pipe. As the revs climb it doesn’t get much louder, but the pitch changes and it really comes into its song. It’s just amazing.

    Anyone driving anything else just doesn’t know what they are missing. Do I miss the Corvette? Do I dream about driving another car? Not on your life…
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    No one actually asked me if I miss the 'vette. I just felt the need to share my enjoyment and amazement of my Aurora. I guess every once in a while I just have to voice my love of this car.
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    My sunroof is acting up for the first time, It opens some what, but it won't close all the way, and the glass won't go up to lock mode or pop up mode without a couple of hand pushes. Anyone here had any problems with their sunroofs? And do you guys think it's covered under warranty? I took it to my some what local OLDS (if you can believe that in the Chicagoland Area there is only 2 local dealers close to me which are the Park Ridge and Highland Park OLDS) they stated that if it's not covered under my warranty it would cost me $90 dollars for them to take a look at it, that's wack though, will see what happens. I'll keep you guys post it.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    rjs - Well, you get an A for the descriptive writing. I'd say your descriptions of the great driving experience reflect the excellent mid and high end power the car has. Nail it coming out of a turn and the car is just exceptional - no doubt. The car down shifts and it's fat-city power for every rpm. It's great.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    dtlr077:

    The service manual for your '95 is sure different than my '97. The FPR was a simple replacement for me -- nothing to do with the fuel rail. Took me about 15 minutes (I had already permanently removed the intake manifold cover). Your symptoms sound consistent with a leaky FPR. I recommend you replace it right away, since I experienced a backfire "explosion" that luckily self-extinguished, but did burn a large area of the hood insulator.
  • gillum1gillum1 Posts: 2
    I am the proud owner of a '97 Classic, bought used with 86K miles. Bought for a VERY good price, as the dealer felt he was "unloading" an oil leaking car he did not want to repair. It turned out that the leak was an improper tightening of the power steering hose, which simulated the 'oil leak'. In any case, I love the car!!
    My introduction to the Aurora was weird. I'd previously owned a Lincoln Mark VII. I was earnestly seeking a Mark VIII to faithfully replace my old LSC. I was finding most of them in my geographic area (Atlanta) to be hopelessly overpriced, and upon heading home from a seemingly fruitless search one day, I ventured onto a lot and saw not one, but two Auroras. I had always admired the car for its' look, but had never driven one. Needless to say, after some serious extensive research, and seeking out EVERY Aurora within a 100 mile radius, I am more than pleased with mine.
    I have dutifully taken in all of the great posts and advice, and will be bringing my fighter plane in for its' 100K treatment early, to be on the safe side. Has anyone tried the Continental Conti-Touring Tires? I am currently on Eagle GA's which need to be replaced. Michelins have never been worth what they ask for them, and I am open for suggestions. Also, doesn't GM make a set of higher performance wires and plugs, or just stock? Are they available?
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I received an email and the person brought up something I had not seen as a problem in my prior travels - leaking engine blocks. I know the Northstar burns a little oil and that there can be an oil leak from the car from the oil pan, but I did not know there were cracked engine blocks out there.

    As far as the questions asked in the email, I don't think I can offer any furnther insight. If anyone on the board is in the northern New Jersey area and has questions, I would suggest Norman Gale Olds in Parsippany.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    And I think Garnes at least (a few others too, I bet) will be interested in it. I guess I finally emailed the right guy at GM Powertrain (although he made someone else respond to me as far as I can tell from the headers...) because they did send me a dyno graph of the new Aurora. I don't know why the heck it isn't on the GM Powertrain site in the first place. Anyway, see it here:

    http://www.geocities.com/aurora402002/powercurve.html


    Actually, remember how I said "perhaps the new Aurora has 89% of it's torque peak from 1700 to 2300" in response to the 90% figures? Well, look at the graph. It's pretty funny in that it sort of bears that out (not that I feel vindicated or anything. I only said the 89% thing to point out that the 90% thing wasn't overly valuable).


    That graph sort of verifys how my car feels. It pulls pretty strong all the time, but at about 3500 rpm it really starts pulling stronger, and by about 4500 rpm it is really cooking.


    I also asked about the power ratings in the service manual. The service manual states a torque peak of 260 lb-ft @4000 (not 4400) rpm. Apparently the service manual is wrong (I suspected, but who knows. There have been a lot of carryover stats on the Olds site that were wrong) and it is 260 lb-ft @4400rpm.


    Well, talking about the power the Aurora makes seemed to bother some of you last time so I will stop typing now.
  • larryfllarryfl Posts: 214
    Gillum1 - Welcome to the club and the land of aurorans!

    I purchased a '95 Aurora in May of 2001 w/ 50K miles. The car had a vibration @ about 75 MPH when I bought it and fixing it was a condition of the sale. The dealer put a new set of the conti-touring tires on it. The tires helped, but the dealer also had to do a "force balance" to completely rid it.

    I now have 81K miles on the car (31K on the tires I have left). I had a flat @ 80MPH on I-75 through the swamp in S. Florida about a month or two ago. By the time I realized it the tire was ruined.. So I now have the surviving pair and some other pair the tire shop put on (Goodyear, I think). The tires have been fine. I don't know that I'd call them high performance, but they have great wet weather traction (I'm in Florida) and are good at highway speeds and have worn evenly. Even with my more aggressive driving style, I'd say I have at least 10,000 miles left on the remaining pair--- and that's as good as I ever get.

    One thing you'll find is that these Aurora's are real finicky about front-end vibration at highway speeds. You may have to have all four force balanced when you get them. BUT.. once they're properly balanced my experience is they stay that way.

    Good luck with yours!
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    I'm looking @ a '99 Classic with 37k miles. Pearl White with tan interior. 12 disc changer in trunk, sunroof - NO heated seats. Its an offlease vehicle at the dealer and is certifed. Has 16k left on factory warranty or until July '03. It seems the market is soft on these and I'm trying to figure out what to offer the dealer. They've had it since April. Small town dealer - I'm sure he wants to move it. WOuld you guys purchase an extended warranty on this car? What would you think a great deal would be? Any watch outs on this model? Thanks for any advice.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    jonbgood - I bought my 98 about 15 months ago and was able to get the car about 2k less than the "edmunds" price for an "excellent" condition car. It only had 13,000 miles and was not dented dinged or majorly scratched at all. It needed a little cleaning and a "clay stick" job to remove overspray. I also buffed the hell out of it to remove all the light scratching. I detailed the interior myself. But it was otherwise a practically new car and I got it for less than what edmunds listed for excellent. I only had to add a little superficial stuff to it. It too was in a small town. I'd shoot for 2k or maybe even more than that under the edmunds price for whatever condition it's in.

    Condition - it's kind of subjective in some ways. It's hard to put into words, but sometimes a car looks good (and anything looks good in a picture)until you walk right up to it and then you notice the paint is really scratchy like its been through countless car washes with the spinning "soft cloth" pads loaded with dirt from the other 500 cars before you. I guess White pearl is one of the best colors for hiding light scratchy stuff though. Then there is the interior. Did anybody ever condition the seats? Or are they deeply creased (maybe even cracked a little) and soiled? Is the center console walnut trim dull from being scratched up? Did somebody go over the instrument cluster lens with a Brawny paper towel and dull that with a million scratches? Carpet? Dings in the body?

    In short - does the car have a "ratty lived in look" or does it really look nice, or can look perfect with a little care?

    Sorry to ramble, but you hear so much about "I saw this 99 Aurora with X miles and it sold for X$ - gee they are going cheap now" Ebay is great for seeing that stuff. It means nothing. You never really know the true condition and value unless you see it yourself.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    I, too, picked up my '98 for a song from a local (Milwaukee, WI) dealer - had it on his lot for almost a year. It took me nearly a month before the used-car manager finally capitulated and took my offer (about 2k less than the lowest advertised price of the car, which originally was 5k under the window sticker).

    Extended warranty? If you intend to drive the car more than a year or two, heck yes. There's lots of technology and components in the Aurora and its V-8 engine and transmission. There are a few chronic problem areas as mentioned here - for example, A/C compressor (mine failed out of warranty, but my extended warranty paid for it and more than paid for itself in one repair) and Fuel Pressure Regulator - along with the standard water pump (mine failed under warranty) and alternator (my mother-in-law's failed under warranty) issues.

    If a $1000+ repair isn't going to faze you, then the extended warranty won't do much for you. If an expensive repair (transmission replacement is $3k) is going to hurt your financial situation badly, then I strongly suggest getting an extended warranty (but NOT from the dealer = ripoff - see the Finance, Insurance, and Warranties section here for further info).

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
  • silotwosilotwo Posts: 27
    I too have been shopping for a pearl white 99. I found one with 29k, GM certified with a 12k/12m warranty. Chrome wheels and sunroof, non-bose, no autobahn, no heated seats. Took it for a 50 mile test drive and it is truly flawless inside and out, including the paint. My offer is 15K, the dealer is willing to sell for 17K. Since I have a fine 95 with zero in payments, I am waiting them out.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    I've not seen any '99 Auroras advertised as having this Pkg. How do you know if the car has this pkg? Is there any badging. What is the consensus on this option? Thanks guys.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    if there is the code "QQX" on the build sticker. This should be in the trunk, probably on the spare tire cover. The dealer ought to know where it is. This is the only easy way to tell.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    If it still has the original tires (at 37k - maybe not), a classic with the Autobahn will have the Michelin MXV4 tires.

    It won't have a speed limiter either - so see if you can test drive it to 120 or so. HA.

    Go with RJS's advice for positive identification.

    The autobahn basically gives you the 3.71 transaxle instead of the standard 3.48 - which is still pretty aggressive. It's the same transaxle in any Seville STS I believe. All the new Auroras have the 3.71 as well. In addition you get the Michelin tires and no speed limiter. That's it.

    The 3.71 gives you an acceleration edge - it's a little quicker. The car revs a little higher on the highway, but I don't think mileage is compromised too much. My car has the 3.71 and I'm impressed with the highway mileage.

    Way back there was a discussion on the rpm vs speed difference and I think the results everybody posted were as follows:

    3.71 - 62 mph @ 2000 rpm
    3.48 - 66 mph @ 2000 rpm

    I don't think it's a big deal either way. They are both good. Hope this helps.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Much better advice Garnes. JonBGood should ask the salesman if it has the autobahn package while he's test-driving with him on some moderately busy street. When the salesman inevitably says he doesn't know, BGood should say "well, let's find out" and then just bury the throttle, swerving around traffic, bounding over dips, and squealing around curves, until he hits about 130mph. At this point he can tromp on the brake, resume his leisurely test-drive, and proclaim confidently to the salesman that it does in fact have the autobahn package. Garnes, I was laughing out loud as soon as I read your post.

    Oh, I think the autobahn does have a speed limiter. I believe it's just raised to about 135mph from about 108. As a note, the autobahn package didn't make enough difference to get two EPA ratings. The 1998 Aurora is rated at 17/26 from the EPA regardless of axle ratio.
  • silotwosilotwo Posts: 27
    Easiest indicator to determine if the car has the autobahn package is to check the tire specs label on the drivers side door. Autobahns require a "V" speed rated tire. Standard requires an "S". Drove both and I am satisfied with out the autobahn. The autobahn's seem, to me anyway, as if they wind out earlier and don't have as much punch at the 100mph+ mark. Not that any of us ever get close to that, and it's only my perception, stats might prove me wrong.

    Ages ago I ran a 1970 muscle car with a 4:88 rear, scary car, 1/4 mile in a hair over 14 seconds, but top end only 107 mph. No choice but to stop for law enforcement with that set up.

    Now the Porsche 911 was different....but that's another bunch of stories.
  • silotwosilotwo Posts: 27
    I've been running vin's through carfax complete report service. Noticed most 2001's are rental cars sold at auction as a "manufacturers" vehichle. A lot of them were titled in the south but auctioned in the Northeast. found a few that were sold at auction two times with in 30 days and about 1k miles between sales.

    Just mentioning in case someone thinks a dealer is giving them a good deal on a "lease" vehichle. Rental cars are not at all like "off lease" cars.

    I rent cars very often, had a 2001 aurora 3 times, always a 6 cyliner, never a sunroof.

    The Classic's on the other hand, as far as I know, were never in service at major rental car companies.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    Trying to decide between an off lease '99 with 38k vs. '01 one owner with 25k and the 3.5 engine. I like the fact that the 3.5 uses regular unleaded.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Yes, the Classic Aurora's 4.0 engine requires premium fuel. For many people, this is an instant stumbling block for buying any car with this requirement. But, you've got to do the math.

    Where I generally buy gas (Clark stations here in the Midwest), the premium for premium is about 12c/gal. I usually fill up once a week, and it's usually around 15 gallons.

    diff * gall * weeks/months
    .12 * 15 * 52 /12

    Of course, in this situation, your mileage may vary (literally :-).

    In my case, the "premium premium" translates into approximately $7.80 per month. Does this matter to me? Absolutely not. People typically waste this much per month in not getting a good deal or financing on their car, carrying extra junk in the trunk, or even improper maintenance (tire pressure inflation, fuel filters, oil changes, etc.).

    In your situation, you're also comparing the Classic V-8 with the New Aurora's shortstar V-6. I haven't compared the EPA numbers on them, but I'd bet the 6-banger gets better mileage (the car is already somewhat lighter). Of course, IMHO, the 2 generations are completely different cars, with the name being the strongest link between the two. Looks, driving dynamics, etc. are totally different. Myself, I always loved the looks of the original Aurora, and I'd never had a V-8 powered car (or a luxury car, for that matter). With the depressed pricing on Olds products, and my gut feel that the automotive world is going to be turned upside down in the next decade, I figured now was as good as any).

    (Side topic: IMHO, we are really in the golden age of the automobile, but no one knows it.. Most motorheads think that the "horsepower wars" of the 60's were the golden age, but the cars today have more power, handle much better (bias-ply tires, anyone?), and are infinitely more safe (seat belts, airbags, crumple zones, not to mention ABS, traction control, etc.).

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    One quick way to see if your Aurora requires premium gas is to look on your dash by the gas gauge theres is a "Premium Unleaded Fuel Only" sign. Thought you guys might want to know, I did not know that when I bought my 1999 Aurora till I saw the inside of the car, but I didn't mind at all.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    The Classic does not require premium, it is recommended. I have used the silver grade and been okay with it. Howver, if you just use regular you will not get the performace from the car. You will find that you can tell when there s regular gas in the car. The Aurora will be sluggish on the road.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    Drove a '99 today. Car is White Diamond Metallic with 38k miles. GM Certified. Has original Michelins that came w/ Autobahn pkg. Has Bose and 12 disc changer/ sunroof. No heated seats(was this even an option??). Tan interior was in perfect condition. Dealer has had since April. The car had two long (at least 12 inches) scratches - one on each side. The one on the drivers door really bothered me once I noticed it. The salesman was very honest and seemed to know the product VERY well- he volunteered that the air conditioner compressor usually goes somewhere between 50k & 60k on these cars. He said be prepared to spend a $1000 if it does. He stated that he doubted anything could be done about the scratches other than repainting. This seems extreme. Does anybody have any experience with scratch removal on the White Diamond Metalic paint? I liked the car other than that aspect.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    was very smooth and very quiet. Had the dealer pull the warranty repair history on the car. Clear coat on roof was reapplied @7K. Brake master cylander @ 23k. Center console replaced @ 8k. Tires rebalanced twice in first 1000 miles. I noticed rear window seal looked mucked up where the little piece goes that covers where the two pieces are supposed to join - right behind the trunk. Also noticed windshield molding was very loose and could be pulled out - as if there is no glue. ANy watch outs on the rear window seals? By '99 - I would assume most of the bugs would have been worked out. Good assumption? Thanks. Also, I know the market is soooo soft on these cars. They're going at 13k to 13.5 @ auction I've been told equipped with everything - including chromed wheels (which this one doesn't have). Any ideas on what you'd try to buy this car for - scratches and all?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    heated seats were an option on the Aurora. Do the scratches appear to be in the same place on each side of the vehicle? If so, I bet it's from it being towed or trailered somewhere and the carrier hit the car. I've seen that before. For that reason, and many others, flatbed towing is much preferred. I've never had a car towed anywhere, but I think if I ever had to I would insist on a flatbed. Are the scratches real deep, or high up on the door where they are real noticeable? If they are low down, then you might be able to have them touched up without it being noticeable.

    Any idea why the clearcoat was replaced or the center console? That seems a bit weird. On the rear glass and the windshield, look at the identification tag and see if it is GM glass (it should have an identifier similar to the ones on the other pieces of glass and should say "GM" somewhere in it). Maybe the original glass was shoddily replaced. If this was done at a glass place, your dealer would have no record of it.

    $1000 for an A/C compressor is crazy, but I don't doubt it's accurate. I was looking at my service manual and noticed the radiator has to be removed to remove the alternator on my car. That really sucks since it is such an easy repair on most cars.
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    a) rear window moulding - the clip on mine was loose/crooked. The dealer I purchased it from just glued it and duct-taped it for a couple of days - the dealer I now service my car with actually brought in an auto-glass company to re-do the seal. Don't accept the band-aid solution like my first dealer tried to apply...

    b) Check the window seals on the doors. Spray water at them from a hose at about half intensity - does water get inside? It's common for water to get into the seal, but if it actually gets inside, the window needs adjustment. Also listen for window leaks...

    c) any fluid leaks under the car? A/C condensation is normal, but, if you get a small clear puddle which doesn't dissolve quickly, your water pump is leaking and will eventually fail. The Northstar-derived engines are also known for small oil leaks and consumption (though I fortunately haven't seen this).

    d) Drive the car between 65 and 75 mph. Notice any vibration? If so, your wheels need a four-wheel force balance. This is essentially a machine which simulates the road, and allows the high and low spots of both the wheels and the tires to be measured. The high spot of the wheel and the low spot of the tire are matched, and vice versa. Auroras and Rivieras are commonly afflicted with this 70mph vibration...

    e) check the side marker lights in the lower front bumper - are they loose in their openings? Any moisture in them? Both of mine had to be replaced.

    f) Likewise, check the rear backup lights (next to the license plates) - any condensation in them?

    g) Check the left side of the instrument cluster, where it meets the door. It's easy for some people to "snag" on this and damage the cluster.

    h) If you have a sunroof, check the headliner (especially on the right side) to see if it's sagging (TSB on that).

    i) it's common for the red shift indicator light to burn out. Sometimes it's a bulb, sometimes it's the wire that needs to be resoldered. It can also be a fuse (if the accessory power adapter doesn't work, go fuse)

    j) Ensure that the fog lights are working OK - this can be a fuse, or a burned-out switch or relay.

    k) Look for the little air dam that underhangs the front fascia - if it's been ripped off, the car may have been abused. This is important for cooling.

    l) check the lower rear bumper on either side of the car (behind the rear tires) - is this loose? Both of mine had to be reattached.

    m) The "parking assist" mode sometimes goes goofy - when the mirror tilts back up (after tilting down when backing up), if can point up to the sky. There's a TSB on this.

    n) If you make a very slow (<5 mph) U-turn and the steering wheel shudders, there's a power steering hose which needs to be replaced (TSB - see http://www.nhtsa.gov)

    I hope this list doesn't scare you - every car has its little bugs and issues. Probably many of these don't afflict '99's, with all of the running changes I think it's probably the best model to get.

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    In bright sun - with the white diamond paint- the scratches are hard to notice. But once you know they are there (especially being as long as they are) it really bugs you. I really don't know if they'd rub out with Meguiars or something. I would think the dealer would have tried that. The other things you mentioned - would they be covered under the original warranty? If the water pump goes out - for instance - is this covered?
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    The check list already up is very good. I would just add that you should check the miles till empty on the car's computer. The more miles to empty you get on a full tank will be an indication on how the car was driven. When I got my 95 the miles till empty on a full tank was pretty high. It has never been that high since I got the car because I drive it more aggressively than the prior owners.

    Also, a softly driven car is not necessarily a bargain if you like to feel the power of the car. I have been told by more than one mechanic that if a car was not broken in properly and was driven softly for a good portion of its life, it will not adapt well to more aggressive use of its v8 power.

    Its kind of like taking your body out for an IRON MAN competition after you have been a couch potato for the past 3 years (36,000 miles).
  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    <In bright sun - with the white diamond paint- the scratches are hard to notice. But once you know they are there (especially being as long as they are) it really bugs you. I really don't know if they'd rub out with Meguiars or something. I would think the dealer would have tried that.>

    I don't know about the white diamond paint, though I'd imagine that it would be difficult to touch it up (I have a black car, so it's easier). My suggestion would be to see if you can take the car to a reputable body shop, or at least swing by (maybe early in the a.m. before the dealer is open) and take some pictures of it to show to a body shop. My car had a huge crater in the door, and I made it a condition of the sale for them to fix it, and the dealer did (I walked away from the closing the first time because they had done such a poor job repairing it, not to mention detailing the car - there were a couple of other scratches they said they'd take out, which they hadn't).

    I've had good luck removing small swirls and scratches with 3M's swirl mark remover - they make 2 formulations, one for light-colored paint, the other for dark-colored paint. See http://www.autopia-carcare.com/3mperfectit.html for more info.

    I'd also suggest sending an email to Sal Zaino - his company makes Zaino, which is the most awesome set of car-care products. They generally can't be purchased in stores, but through resellers - but their polymer-based paint sealants give a shine better than any wax, and it lasts 6+ months. The initial application process is a bear, but after that it's so easy. http://www.zainobros.com is the web site, and Sal's email address is [email protected] I don't work for Zaino, but absolutely think their products are the best (I used to think Meguiars was all that, now I have a bunch in my garage I'll never use again).

    <The other things you mentioned - would they be covered under the original warranty? If the water pump goes out - for instance - is this covered?>

    All of the above problems would be covered under the original 4 year, 50k mi. warranty, yes. (well, the forced balance may not be, but, if it's necessary, as long as you bring it up when buying the car, they'll probably do it).

    Forgot another thing on the checklist - check the running temperature while you've been driving the car on the freeway (not stopped in traffic) and it's reached its operating temperature - should be a tick under 200 degrees. If you're in stop-n-go, the temps can tick up as high as 220. If higher, the thermostat probably needs to be replaced...

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
    P.S. If anyone else has any "checklist items", please feel free to add to them. I'll try to put this together as a Frequently Asked Questions document, that can maybe be posted in one of the Owner's Club boards that's not as busy as this one...
  • beachloverbeachlover Posts: 17
    95 Classic...have an opportunity to get some cheap junkyard parts from a 4.0L Aurora. Nothing is wrong with mine, other than high miles. Any suggestions on parts I should buy, expecting a high probability to need them? Such as starter, coil pack, alternator, etc. In other words, historically, which parts tend to be the "weakest link" for the 95 ?
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Hammen2 - I agree with you about the "golden age" stuff. I'd define it as entering a new one. I'd say that generally from the early 70's to the early or mid 90's were a "dark age". Sure there were some bright spots, but not many. Perhaps the 80's were the worst.

    I agree that perhaps the next few years will see some incredible performance, however it will cost plenty. The V6's are geared about as much as can be, and have variable timing and such so something radical will have to be done or just make bigger 6's for even more performance. That will surely cost something. The new Northstar should be incredible too as are some of the latest V8's seen on some imports, but again, they cost an outrageous sum.

    Just hanging on to something like an Aurora is the best bet for now. It's a great blend of looks, luxury and performance.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Scratches - if the scratch is not past the clear coat, you can eliminate it or reduce the blemish by rubbing the hell out of it with Meguires mirror glaze No.7. I can't stress enough the "hell" part of that. Your arm will fall off. It's not the best way to remove a scratch because Meguires mirror glaze is so mild with hardly any bite to it. The upside - you can't hurt a car finish with your bare hands and No.7. It's totally safe.

    If the scratch is not gone, it will at least have the edges smoothed out so it's not so noticeable.

    I removed some stuff with No.7 and a terry cloth applicator. A better way is to get an orbital buffer. I got one at Sears for $40 and it's great. You just better be sure the bonnet is perfectly clean and you never let anything contaminate it or you will kill the finish. Also, for bad scratches, use something with more bite. I use Car Brights "Power Pak". It seems just like the meguires, but has more bite to it. After using it, I usually have to use the No.7 to remove any slight swirl the tougher stuff sometimes leaves. I only used it for a bad scratch or two.

    Meguires makes some tougher compounds - I just don't know the names. If you call them, they can help. Others here probably know of some good products.

    The suggestion of going to a body shop or detailer is a good one, and see what they think can be done.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Also - if you get the door panel repainted - I'd guess about $400/door panel for a good job. You could just try to get that amount off the price.

    I know one guy that had the compressor go out under warranty. It would have been $1,300 - so he said. Unbelievable.
  • cwiley1cwiley1 Posts: 82
    I've been reading several of your comments about older adults driving Aurora's What age do you consider older adults. According to the statistics I'm classified as a senior citizen, but I enjoy beautiful and well performing cars, regardless of make and model. I really enjoy driving both my autobahn Aurora's I really get sick and tired of these Auto Mag's. comparing Aurora's with $50k and above cars. They are a great buy for around $35K. I have had some problems with both of mine but I don't think anymore so than any other vehicle with all these standard accessories. I do keep my extend warranty up on both cars. It only takes one repair at $1k to pay for the warranty. Keep up the good work to all, I enjoy reading all the comments. I may be old but I still like my beautiful cars.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Young ends at . . . .?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I was just trying to be funny. Besides, being old doesn't make one a fogie. I think you can agree that there are certain older people that just want a comfortable floaty riding car, and have no interest at all in performance. As it relates to the Corsa system, I was just pointing out that they are unlikely to care about one. However, when the classic was on sale, Olds still had the 88 and the 98 which probably had more appeal to this type of driver. With the current Aurora, there isn't this option. So a fogie who wants an Olds now might be more likely to buy an Aurora.

    There is no specific age that this applies to, so don't be offended. There are plenty of 40 and 50 year olds (as well as 60, 70, 80,... year olds) who would rather have a floaty Park Avenue Ultra for the same price or more than a new Aurora 4.0. It is probably safe to say those people aren't looking for ways to hear more exhaust note on acceleration.
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    tried to play around with the clicker to change the program mode on it. I tried making the exterior lights flash or make the horn beep when locking the car per the zincster instructions but all it does is lock the car and turn on the interior lights. Maybe it was for 96 and up?

    Greg
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Try looking back at the posts around 2990. They deal with this. Apparently the 95 didn't have the same features as the 96 (the manual on Zinc's site is for a 96). I've said it a few times before (as has Javidogg), but go to http://www.mygmlink.com and you can view the owners manual for your exact car. This should provide as specific information as anyone can give.
  • larryfllarryfl Posts: 214
    I can't program any of that stuff on my '95. I have the original manual. The only thing it shows that can be programmed is the door lock/unlock when going into and out of drive. I think it said that can be programed to either unlock when shifted back into park or not. Interestingly, it will always lock the doors when shifting into gear whether you set it to unlock when going back to park or not.
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