Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
larryfl - When the dealer did not "burp" the cooling system correctly after a water pump job, it locked and overheated immediately. The computer oil life went to zero and it said I had to change it NOW. There was no affect on the tranny fluid display. Did the car get really hot somehow or was it subjected to some harsh use? With the tranny also saying zero it sounds like something else is going on if the car did not experience anything unusual.
Click HERE to see it."
These is the website were I purchased mine.
Click HERE to see it."
Others with the New Classic - - I took my 2K1 in to replace the driver's side heated seat rocker switch, under warranty. The dealer had no problem with removing the wood trim on the console nor with installing the new rocker switch. But, returning the wood trim back to the console chipped the edge of the wood trim. Apparently it's a pretty forceful snap-in fit. The dealer reports that this has happened to them twice. They'll replace it, of course, at no charge. But for you do-it-yourselfers, be careful if you attempt to remove/reinstall the console wood trim.
Ken
http://www.superbuytires.com/wheels_by_brand.html?stage=2&brand=Neeper&model=Fly&id=6150
If I find a buyer for my 18 inch Lexani's, I'm going to look for a good deal on some Lexani Synergy size 20 inch, Click here to see it"
My opinion would be that the wheels ought to work with the car. If you just pick wheels that look cool by themselves and stick them on some car, then the wheels won't have a look that goes along with the car. This makes them stand out more, but in the same way painting the car bright orange would. Personally, I think if they work with the car and accentuate it but don't stand out from it, that's the best choice. That's just my opinion, though. Actually, that's why I've never really cared for spoilers or lower-body cladding. It's the same recipe for every car. Body kits for an Aurora are just like body kits for a Civic or Accord except they are fitted to the dimensions of the car. They don't really work with the style or accentuate the style. It's the same add-on look as on any other car. I think subtle change that accentuates is better.
Like, look at the add-ons for Corvettes (ok, so I like Corvettes...) You see a 1990 Corvette with a spoiler and it looks like crap. You see a 1990 Corvette with gold wire rims, some front air-dam, and side skirts and it looks like crap. You see a 1990 Callaway Corvette with the Aerobody, and it looks so freaking awesome that you can hardly walk straight. This is because the Aerobody accentuates the car. It wouldn't look right on a Civic or Accord or even a Camaro. It is made just for that Corvette body, and it really works with the Corvette's lines to make a better looking car. It looks factory yet custom because of how well it works. It's integrated enough that it could be a factory effort, yet it is cool enough that it's obviously custom. Anyway, that's just my opinion. So feel free to disregard it. Even if you put Civic-candidate wheels on you cars, you still have to post some pictures so we can see it!
dtlr077: Scroll back about 20-40 messages (maybe more) and you'll find some info about the fuel pressure regulator. If your 1995 has the regulator built into the fuel rail, then there isn't much you can do. However, it might be that it can be removed seperately, but GM doesn't do it that way. One way to tell would be to see if you can buy the FPR by itself or if it comes with the fuel rail too. Either that, or look at it on your car.
Incidentally, I piled 4 people in the back yesterday to go to church. The air shocks kicked in and held their own--though the back passengers were wondering what the noise was. Anyway, your recommendations are appreciated. Also, any idea on the cost? Figure both components and labor.
The whole process takes maybe 1/2 hour once you figre out where everything is. And it does make a huge difference in performance!!
The last few days I’ve been driving a bit more enthusiastically than most. Specifically, there were two drives, one a few days ago on a beautiful, twisty wooded road that runs through some million dollar neighborhoods (I don’t live there), and a second one on a nice fat 55mph 4-6 lane divided road that has occasional red lights, occasional pockets of traffic, and occasional open straights that make working through the pockets well worth it.
Driving down that twisty road was incredible. The temperature was about 72, and the front windows were down with the sunroof open. Trees shaded most of the road. My speeds were anywhere from 25-55mph. But it was the changing of speeds that was the best. On the brakes for a sharp turn and the car slows beautifully. Very linear, and there was always more braking if I needed it. Running through the turns, light on the accelerator until I break out of them, and the car leaned a bit. However, the lean was perfect. It let you know what was going on with the car, but it wasn’t unwelcome or upsetting. The Corvette didn’t lean ever. It was very hard to tell if the car could take more or not. The Aurora had great feedback. There were a lot of elevation changes too, which made it all the more enjoyable. Come out of a slow turn, and punch it up a rising straightaway. The whole time, the sun breaking through tree branches is dancing on the hood, and the soft leather on that thick steering wheel is giving ever so slightly under your grip. It’s magical. The soft rush of the wind is the perfect compliment to the engine’s changing beat. The Bose stereo is excellent, but it has nothing on the soundtrack coming from that V-8.
On to the straights. The temperature was about 86, just cool enough to have the front windows down and the sunroof tilted. As long as the air is moving, it’s comfortable. The Solar-Ray glass in the sunroof is repelling those pummeling sun rays, while still letting the air to move through the cabin. No chances to race anyone from the lights because no one seems to care. But it would’ve just gotten in the way of my enjoyment of the car. Running in a pack of cars, trying to get to the front for the next red light, the Aurora is a joy. Push the gas to squeeze in an opening, and the car instantly responds. No need to even downshift. It’s worth it when you emerge from that pocket of traffic and are first at the next light. The light changes and you push the pedal about 70%. The car pulls effortlessly away from the crowd. As the road opens up, the pedal can be pushed even more. No cross-streets for a while now. Start pushing the throttle more and the car stays in gear pulling towards 3000 rpm. The sound is building as the force starts really pushing. Then you dig into it. The car instantly responds with a lightning quick downshift. Who needs the hassle of a manual when you have an automatic like this one. The car is in the 4000’s now. At about 4500 rpm the engine explodes both into hard-charging acceleration as well as into a beautiful song. This is the kind of song you just have to hear live. No recording could capture it. No speaker could reproduce its beauty. And the song just gets better as the climb continues strongly up into the 6000’s. A firm shift and it starts all over again. Who could ever tire of this? By contrast, the Corvette pulls hard as you start out. You don’t even need to downshift to pull away or to pass. In the 2000-3000 range, it can’t be beat. But once you do downshift, the reward is small. As the engine pulls into the 4000’s, the power climbs a bit but then tapers off. By about 4800, there isn’t much point in continuing. The power drops off and the car feels like an asthmatic. You can push it to 5600, but it sounds like it’s in its death throws. The engine has a low growl, but it’s very blurred together. As the revs climb, it just gets louder, not better. That Aurora V-8 isn’t like that at all. You can almost hear each cylinder firing and then burbling out the pipe. As the revs climb it doesn’t get much louder, but the pitch changes and it really comes into its song. It’s just amazing.
Anyone driving anything else just doesn’t know what they are missing. Do I miss the Corvette? Do I dream about driving another car? Not on your life
The service manual for your '95 is sure different than my '97. The FPR was a simple replacement for me -- nothing to do with the fuel rail. Took me about 15 minutes (I had already permanently removed the intake manifold cover). Your symptoms sound consistent with a leaky FPR. I recommend you replace it right away, since I experienced a backfire "explosion" that luckily self-extinguished, but did burn a large area of the hood insulator.
My introduction to the Aurora was weird. I'd previously owned a Lincoln Mark VII. I was earnestly seeking a Mark VIII to faithfully replace my old LSC. I was finding most of them in my geographic area (Atlanta) to be hopelessly overpriced, and upon heading home from a seemingly fruitless search one day, I ventured onto a lot and saw not one, but two Auroras. I had always admired the car for its' look, but had never driven one. Needless to say, after some serious extensive research, and seeking out EVERY Aurora within a 100 mile radius, I am more than pleased with mine.
I have dutifully taken in all of the great posts and advice, and will be bringing my fighter plane in for its' 100K treatment early, to be on the safe side. Has anyone tried the Continental Conti-Touring Tires? I am currently on Eagle GA's which need to be replaced. Michelins have never been worth what they ask for them, and I am open for suggestions. Also, doesn't GM make a set of higher performance wires and plugs, or just stock? Are they available?
As far as the questions asked in the email, I don't think I can offer any furnther insight. If anyone on the board is in the northern New Jersey area and has questions, I would suggest Norman Gale Olds in Parsippany.
http://www.geocities.com/aurora402002/powercurve.html
Actually, remember how I said "perhaps the new Aurora has 89% of it's torque peak from 1700 to 2300" in response to the 90% figures? Well, look at the graph. It's pretty funny in that it sort of bears that out (not that I feel vindicated or anything. I only said the 89% thing to point out that the 90% thing wasn't overly valuable).
That graph sort of verifys how my car feels. It pulls pretty strong all the time, but at about 3500 rpm it really starts pulling stronger, and by about 4500 rpm it is really cooking.
I also asked about the power ratings in the service manual. The service manual states a torque peak of 260 lb-ft @4000 (not 4400) rpm. Apparently the service manual is wrong (I suspected, but who knows. There have been a lot of carryover stats on the Olds site that were wrong) and it is 260 lb-ft @4400rpm.
Well, talking about the power the Aurora makes seemed to bother some of you last time so I will stop typing now.
I purchased a '95 Aurora in May of 2001 w/ 50K miles. The car had a vibration @ about 75 MPH when I bought it and fixing it was a condition of the sale. The dealer put a new set of the conti-touring tires on it. The tires helped, but the dealer also had to do a "force balance" to completely rid it.
I now have 81K miles on the car (31K on the tires I have left). I had a flat @ 80MPH on I-75 through the swamp in S. Florida about a month or two ago. By the time I realized it the tire was ruined.. So I now have the surviving pair and some other pair the tire shop put on (Goodyear, I think). The tires have been fine. I don't know that I'd call them high performance, but they have great wet weather traction (I'm in Florida) and are good at highway speeds and have worn evenly. Even with my more aggressive driving style, I'd say I have at least 10,000 miles left on the remaining pair--- and that's as good as I ever get.
One thing you'll find is that these Aurora's are real finicky about front-end vibration at highway speeds. You may have to have all four force balanced when you get them. BUT.. once they're properly balanced my experience is they stay that way.
Good luck with yours!
Condition - it's kind of subjective in some ways. It's hard to put into words, but sometimes a car looks good (and anything looks good in a picture)until you walk right up to it and then you notice the paint is really scratchy like its been through countless car washes with the spinning "soft cloth" pads loaded with dirt from the other 500 cars before you. I guess White pearl is one of the best colors for hiding light scratchy stuff though. Then there is the interior. Did anybody ever condition the seats? Or are they deeply creased (maybe even cracked a little) and soiled? Is the center console walnut trim dull from being scratched up? Did somebody go over the instrument cluster lens with a Brawny paper towel and dull that with a million scratches? Carpet? Dings in the body?
In short - does the car have a "ratty lived in look" or does it really look nice, or can look perfect with a little care?
Sorry to ramble, but you hear so much about "I saw this 99 Aurora with X miles and it sold for X$ - gee they are going cheap now" Ebay is great for seeing that stuff. It means nothing. You never really know the true condition and value unless you see it yourself.
Extended warranty? If you intend to drive the car more than a year or two, heck yes. There's lots of technology and components in the Aurora and its V-8 engine and transmission. There are a few chronic problem areas as mentioned here - for example, A/C compressor (mine failed out of warranty, but my extended warranty paid for it and more than paid for itself in one repair) and Fuel Pressure Regulator - along with the standard water pump (mine failed under warranty) and alternator (my mother-in-law's failed under warranty) issues.
If a $1000+ repair isn't going to faze you, then the extended warranty won't do much for you. If an expensive repair (transmission replacement is $3k) is going to hurt your financial situation badly, then I strongly suggest getting an extended warranty (but NOT from the dealer = ripoff - see the Finance, Insurance, and Warranties section here for further info).
Hope this helps,
--Robert
It won't have a speed limiter either - so see if you can test drive it to 120 or so. HA.
Go with RJS's advice for positive identification.
The autobahn basically gives you the 3.71 transaxle instead of the standard 3.48 - which is still pretty aggressive. It's the same transaxle in any Seville STS I believe. All the new Auroras have the 3.71 as well. In addition you get the Michelin tires and no speed limiter. That's it.
The 3.71 gives you an acceleration edge - it's a little quicker. The car revs a little higher on the highway, but I don't think mileage is compromised too much. My car has the 3.71 and I'm impressed with the highway mileage.
Way back there was a discussion on the rpm vs speed difference and I think the results everybody posted were as follows:
3.71 - 62 mph @ 2000 rpm
3.48 - 66 mph @ 2000 rpm
I don't think it's a big deal either way. They are both good. Hope this helps.
Oh, I think the autobahn does have a speed limiter. I believe it's just raised to about 135mph from about 108. As a note, the autobahn package didn't make enough difference to get two EPA ratings. The 1998 Aurora is rated at 17/26 from the EPA regardless of axle ratio.
Ages ago I ran a 1970 muscle car with a 4:88 rear, scary car, 1/4 mile in a hair over 14 seconds, but top end only 107 mph. No choice but to stop for law enforcement with that set up.
Now the Porsche 911 was different....but that's another bunch of stories.
Just mentioning in case someone thinks a dealer is giving them a good deal on a "lease" vehichle. Rental cars are not at all like "off lease" cars.
I rent cars very often, had a 2001 aurora 3 times, always a 6 cyliner, never a sunroof.
The Classic's on the other hand, as far as I know, were never in service at major rental car companies.
Where I generally buy gas (Clark stations here in the Midwest), the premium for premium is about 12c/gal. I usually fill up once a week, and it's usually around 15 gallons.
diff * gall * weeks/months
.12 * 15 * 52 /12
Of course, in this situation, your mileage may vary (literally :-).
In my case, the "premium premium" translates into approximately $7.80 per month. Does this matter to me? Absolutely not. People typically waste this much per month in not getting a good deal or financing on their car, carrying extra junk in the trunk, or even improper maintenance (tire pressure inflation, fuel filters, oil changes, etc.).
In your situation, you're also comparing the Classic V-8 with the New Aurora's shortstar V-6. I haven't compared the EPA numbers on them, but I'd bet the 6-banger gets better mileage (the car is already somewhat lighter). Of course, IMHO, the 2 generations are completely different cars, with the name being the strongest link between the two. Looks, driving dynamics, etc. are totally different. Myself, I always loved the looks of the original Aurora, and I'd never had a V-8 powered car (or a luxury car, for that matter). With the depressed pricing on Olds products, and my gut feel that the automotive world is going to be turned upside down in the next decade, I figured now was as good as any).
(Side topic: IMHO, we are really in the golden age of the automobile, but no one knows it.. Most motorheads think that the "horsepower wars" of the 60's were the golden age, but the cars today have more power, handle much better (bias-ply tires, anyone?), and are infinitely more safe (seat belts, airbags, crumple zones, not to mention ABS, traction control, etc.).
Hope this helps,
--Robert
Any idea why the clearcoat was replaced or the center console? That seems a bit weird. On the rear glass and the windshield, look at the identification tag and see if it is GM glass (it should have an identifier similar to the ones on the other pieces of glass and should say "GM" somewhere in it). Maybe the original glass was shoddily replaced. If this was done at a glass place, your dealer would have no record of it.
$1000 for an A/C compressor is crazy, but I don't doubt it's accurate. I was looking at my service manual and noticed the radiator has to be removed to remove the alternator on my car. That really sucks since it is such an easy repair on most cars.
b) Check the window seals on the doors. Spray water at them from a hose at about half intensity - does water get inside? It's common for water to get into the seal, but if it actually gets inside, the window needs adjustment. Also listen for window leaks...
c) any fluid leaks under the car? A/C condensation is normal, but, if you get a small clear puddle which doesn't dissolve quickly, your water pump is leaking and will eventually fail. The Northstar-derived engines are also known for small oil leaks and consumption (though I fortunately haven't seen this).
d) Drive the car between 65 and 75 mph. Notice any vibration? If so, your wheels need a four-wheel force balance. This is essentially a machine which simulates the road, and allows the high and low spots of both the wheels and the tires to be measured. The high spot of the wheel and the low spot of the tire are matched, and vice versa. Auroras and Rivieras are commonly afflicted with this 70mph vibration...
e) check the side marker lights in the lower front bumper - are they loose in their openings? Any moisture in them? Both of mine had to be replaced.
f) Likewise, check the rear backup lights (next to the license plates) - any condensation in them?
g) Check the left side of the instrument cluster, where it meets the door. It's easy for some people to "snag" on this and damage the cluster.
h) If you have a sunroof, check the headliner (especially on the right side) to see if it's sagging (TSB on that).
i) it's common for the red shift indicator light to burn out. Sometimes it's a bulb, sometimes it's the wire that needs to be resoldered. It can also be a fuse (if the accessory power adapter doesn't work, go fuse)
j) Ensure that the fog lights are working OK - this can be a fuse, or a burned-out switch or relay.
k) Look for the little air dam that underhangs the front fascia - if it's been ripped off, the car may have been abused. This is important for cooling.
l) check the lower rear bumper on either side of the car (behind the rear tires) - is this loose? Both of mine had to be reattached.
m) The "parking assist" mode sometimes goes goofy - when the mirror tilts back up (after tilting down when backing up), if can point up to the sky. There's a TSB on this.
n) If you make a very slow (<5 mph) U-turn and the steering wheel shudders, there's a power steering hose which needs to be replaced (TSB - see http://www.nhtsa.gov)
I hope this list doesn't scare you - every car has its little bugs and issues. Probably many of these don't afflict '99's, with all of the running changes I think it's probably the best model to get.
Hope this helps,
--Robert
Also, a softly driven car is not necessarily a bargain if you like to feel the power of the car. I have been told by more than one mechanic that if a car was not broken in properly and was driven softly for a good portion of its life, it will not adapt well to more aggressive use of its v8 power.
Its kind of like taking your body out for an IRON MAN competition after you have been a couch potato for the past 3 years (36,000 miles).
I don't know about the white diamond paint, though I'd imagine that it would be difficult to touch it up (I have a black car, so it's easier). My suggestion would be to see if you can take the car to a reputable body shop, or at least swing by (maybe early in the a.m. before the dealer is open) and take some pictures of it to show to a body shop. My car had a huge crater in the door, and I made it a condition of the sale for them to fix it, and the dealer did (I walked away from the closing the first time because they had done such a poor job repairing it, not to mention detailing the car - there were a couple of other scratches they said they'd take out, which they hadn't).
I've had good luck removing small swirls and scratches with 3M's swirl mark remover - they make 2 formulations, one for light-colored paint, the other for dark-colored paint. See http://www.autopia-carcare.com/3mperfectit.html for more info.
I'd also suggest sending an email to Sal Zaino - his company makes Zaino, which is the most awesome set of car-care products. They generally can't be purchased in stores, but through resellers - but their polymer-based paint sealants give a shine better than any wax, and it lasts 6+ months. The initial application process is a bear, but after that it's so easy. http://www.zainobros.com is the web site, and Sal's email address is zainobros@zainobros.com. I don't work for Zaino, but absolutely think their products are the best (I used to think Meguiars was all that, now I have a bunch in my garage I'll never use again).
<The other things you mentioned - would they be covered under the original warranty? If the water pump goes out - for instance - is this covered?>
All of the above problems would be covered under the original 4 year, 50k mi. warranty, yes. (well, the forced balance may not be, but, if it's necessary, as long as you bring it up when buying the car, they'll probably do it).
Forgot another thing on the checklist - check the running temperature while you've been driving the car on the freeway (not stopped in traffic) and it's reached its operating temperature - should be a tick under 200 degrees. If you're in stop-n-go, the temps can tick up as high as 220. If higher, the thermostat probably needs to be replaced...
Hope this helps,
--Robert
P.S. If anyone else has any "checklist items", please feel free to add to them. I'll try to put this together as a Frequently Asked Questions document, that can maybe be posted in one of the Owner's Club boards that's not as busy as this one...
I agree that perhaps the next few years will see some incredible performance, however it will cost plenty. The V6's are geared about as much as can be, and have variable timing and such so something radical will have to be done or just make bigger 6's for even more performance. That will surely cost something. The new Northstar should be incredible too as are some of the latest V8's seen on some imports, but again, they cost an outrageous sum.
Just hanging on to something like an Aurora is the best bet for now. It's a great blend of looks, luxury and performance.
If the scratch is not gone, it will at least have the edges smoothed out so it's not so noticeable.
I removed some stuff with No.7 and a terry cloth applicator. A better way is to get an orbital buffer. I got one at Sears for $40 and it's great. You just better be sure the bonnet is perfectly clean and you never let anything contaminate it or you will kill the finish. Also, for bad scratches, use something with more bite. I use Car Brights "Power Pak". It seems just like the meguires, but has more bite to it. After using it, I usually have to use the No.7 to remove any slight swirl the tougher stuff sometimes leaves. I only used it for a bad scratch or two.
Meguires makes some tougher compounds - I just don't know the names. If you call them, they can help. Others here probably know of some good products.
The suggestion of going to a body shop or detailer is a good one, and see what they think can be done.
I know one guy that had the compressor go out under warranty. It would have been $1,300 - so he said. Unbelievable.
There is no specific age that this applies to, so don't be offended. There are plenty of 40 and 50 year olds (as well as 60, 70, 80,... year olds) who would rather have a floaty Park Avenue Ultra for the same price or more than a new Aurora 4.0. It is probably safe to say those people aren't looking for ways to hear more exhaust note on acceleration.
Greg