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Oldsmobile Aurora



  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Posts: 134
    I put on the Dunlop SP Sport A2's on my 1995 and found them to be very worthwhile. I wrote about them in the mods board: here

    Yokohama makes a good set of tires too, but unless you drive your car close to the edge on a regular basis, I'm not sure it's worth the extra money.

  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    Your last message stated:

    ". . . but unless you drive your car close to the edge on a regular basis . . ."

    This IS the AURORA Board, RIGHT???
  • aurorabillaurorabill Posts: 22
    I posted a few Caddie STS questions here, by mistake! I'm on both forums, Sorry!

  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Hi ramou,

    I second the Dunlop SP Sport A2's. Put them on my Aurora back in early April, replacing the Michelin MXV4's on my '98 Autobahn. Whereas the Michelins were junk (the car sat for nearly a year before I bought it), the Dunlops are great - best rain traction I've ever had, and they don't squeal (something I did constantly with the Michelins).

    Had some continuing grief with my car - after the tires + brakes, an AC compressor (ext. warranty), and an idle air control motor (low throttle/check engine light, also ext. warranty), I noted significant vibration when braking. Sure enough - the (year-old) front rotors were warped (they had to be replaced when I bought the car, because the originals were warped and rusted from sitting). I had them turned, but the vibration is still there (not as bad) - if it gets worse, I'll probably replace them and double-check the rear calipers to make sure they're not stuck open or something (the rear rotors seem clean/not rusty). Yes, I do use my parking brake.

    Nothing still beats the looks, the performance, and the ride, though :-)

  • seegirtseegirt Posts: 9
    Ramou. Try the Yokohama Avid V4's at tirerack.com.
    You will not be disappointed with performance, longevity and especially price. I have them for 2 years and they are really a good tire.

    You can have them installed by a local installer as well.

  • musclecar97musclecar97 Posts: 111
    Welp, I just plunked down $280 for: a fuel pressure regulator-$63; bosch platinum2 plugs-$3.99each; bosch plug wires-$124(ouch); and a K&N air filter-$59. All had to be ordered in and will arrive in 3 days. This was through Schucks auto supply (a northwest autoparts chain).

    Matrix, their website is Schucks.com if you haven't got the fpr yet.

    The car took forever to start the other day and it has backfired on startup in the past. From what everyone says here I figure its the fpr. With 75,000 miles (its your call Henri) figured I might as well do the plugs and wires. I've already pulled the plastic pieces out of the top and bottom of the airbox so figured I might as well drop in the K&N since I think she deserves it.
  • dlcleavdlcleav Posts: 40
    I also purchased the Yokohama Avid V4's at tirerack.com instead of the Michelin MXV4's. I've had them on my 98 Classic about a month and find the ride incredible. Some dealers can have the tires drop shipped to them from tirerack.
  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Posts: 181
    rjs- You bring up some good points about the platinum. Platinum is a poorer conductor than copper. However platinum plugs electrode gap will remain unchanged as miles are put on the plugs unlike copper. Too bad they don't make plugs made of Silver. Silver is a better conductor than all of them.

    I am really happy with the results of the plug/wire combo I chose. I notice a large performance increase but that was because I had a faulty plug or wire so I really can't say it was any better than the ones that were in it. It would be interesting to see a dyno with platinum and copper. Although I think a dyno would differ to greatly to notice any gains.

    I havent tried anything other than ACDelco. I suspect though if I had to replace 3 alternators in a period of 2 years there might of been something else wrong cuasing the altenators to go bad.
  • woodranch1woodranch1 Posts: 35
    Just had the following on 1998 at 90,000 miles.

    1. New Throttle body assembly $510
    Covered by WarrantyGold Extended Warranty

    2. Rear Passenger Window Motor $165
    Covered by WarrantyGold Extended Warranty

    3. All new wires and plugs,
    Dealer charge $500;

    I am paying for the wires and plugs. Does this seem like a lot for this?. First replacement of plugs and wires.
  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    To those looking for plugs and wires. I would try global auto parts.com (based in Canada). Last year I bought a set of Bosch plug wires and
    platinum plugs. The wires were sixty something dollars, I don't remember the price for the spark plugs. I recieved my shipment in four days! The clerk at the post office was amazed. Pre Sept. 11th however.
  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    That would be Global4autoparts.com. And they certainly have more than just wires.
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    Hey what up peeps, I wanted to share the news with you all about getting your owners manual online from this website, if you still have not purchased your own. What you have to do is register with these website and you should be able to see your owners manual. Okay so the website is https://www.mygmlink.com/main/US/en/gm/home once you register you can keep a profile on your Aurora or GM vehicle. I wish I had found this website a while back, when I was waiting for manual to arrive from the Oldsmobile dealer. This website had the owners manual for my 1999 Olds Aurora, so I take it, it should have the manual for the earlier Auroras.
  • eaton53eaton53 Posts: 356
    Outrageous doesn't begin to describe that...

    Then again, there's a guy at the Lexus forum who was paying almost $100 for an oil change (my local Ford dealer charges $14.95 for my SVT Contour) and wanted $1K for a brake job.

    Sooo... I guess you're not the only one getting gouged.
  • musclecar97musclecar97 Posts: 111
    So my dad was asking me the other day if the
    Aurora had multipoint fuel injection(an injector for each cylinder). I told him I didn't think so as it has a throttle body and tuned intake runners. The question I now have is how many injectors do we have and do they spray fuel into the throttle body? Where's Garnes when you need him.
  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    The Aurora does have an injector for each cylinder, the throttle body contains the throttle plate. The fuel is sprayed into the port of each individual cylinder. Vacuum and the mass air flow meter determine how much fuel is metered out by the injectors.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I believe that Multiport fires all the injectors at the same time. It's more similar to throttle-body injection, except there is an injector for each cylinder. Sequential fuel injection can fire each injector (or a few groups of injectors) at a time. It has more control over the injectors. I suppose a reason for the difference was the computing power available to control the injectors. Throttle body injection was almost like an electronic carburator, and this appeared in the late 70's and early 80's (although some GM trucks had it into the 90's). By the mid-80's MFI started appearing, and by the late 80's to early 90's SFI was the norm. I suspect there were variations in SFI too, where early on it might have been that half the injectors could be fired at a time, and later each could be fired individually as computing power increased and became cheaper. This is some speculation on my part, though.

    Also, many other factors determine how much fuel gets sprayed too, like the throttle position sensor and the O2 sensor. I imagine for emissions reasons the engine temp is probably used to so that the catalyst can be heated up quickly if cool.
  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Posts: 181
    Soemtimes, not always, when I start my car I smell something that smells like paint thinner. I thought it was gas from my FPR but it smells a lot like paint thinner and nothing like gas.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    The first Seville had analog fuel injection (an analog computer controlled it). There was a fuel injector for each cylinder and each bank of injectors was fired at the same time. Buick's 3800 had sequential (digital) fuel injection in the mid 80's with each injector fired at just the right time.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    musclecar97 - see, you need fjk and rjs for the super techno stuff. I really don't know a lot about the inner workings - just a little. I just like to mess around with ways "unrestrict" the car and let it rip a bit better.

    One thing I'd add to the fuel feed discussion is that I'm pretty sure the temp sensor in the air box (maybe the new Aurora has it on the intake tube) gives the computer more information about the air properties (colder denser air probably gets more fuel than warmer less dense air - even at the same air flow rate) coming in so the most precise amount of gas is used. When I pulled the temp sensor while the car was running - it did goof up the F/A ratio at WOT. You really couldn't feel the difference, but the dyno showed the different ratio and the resulting power drop. Thankfully the computer corrected itself in a short time.

    I'm still amazed at how efficient the car is - or cars in general now. It seemed at first, cars got better mileage because they were just making them lighter (and crappier too - 80's). There was some improved efficiency, but the cars now seem much better than the 80's.

    I still have a 77 Monte Carlo with a pathetic 145 HP 305 V8 (it's very smooth though - and looks very cool nicely restored with "crager" type wheels). It weighs the same as my 98 Aurora - almost identical. At 65 mph, the best highway mileage it got was maybe 18 mpg. I think city was about 12 or so. On a percentage basis, the improvements in fuel efficiency are incredible - plus the car has over 100 more HP. We've really come a long way.

    Now that 0 to 60 seems to be all that matters - oh yeah, and weaving around cones in a parking lot, cars are being geared for off the line acceleration only and those fuel efficiencies seem to be going back down on many cars. Never mind overall drivability, passing power, highway mileage and rpms. 0 to X is it.
  • shucknetshucknet Posts: 98
    Woodranch, why did you have the throttle body replaced on your Aurora?
  • shucknetshucknet Posts: 98
    Well, I have decided that it is now time to say goodbye to my beloved 98 Aurora. I would like to keep the car, but I need something to pull my boat, so it is going to get replaced soon by a suburban. It has been a good car and I will probably own an Aurora again in the future, but for now - it's not practical for a single 25 year old to have an aurora and a suburban at the same time. It might be available if someone were to contact me privately, but Edmunds gets itchy if you advertise on their boards, so you'd have to e-mail me privately about "technical issues" to find out more ([email protected]). =)
  • My Aurora developed spark knock at 2500 miles. Dealer said he can't fix it. GM says it is normal.

    Does anyone own a 2001 4.0 that has spark knock? If so, what was done to it to stop the knocking?

    Thanks for the reply
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    The Town Hall is about to take on a new look in an effort to make content more easily searchable and accessible.

    Have you seen the Letter from the Town Hall Manager on the Town Hall Welcome page? If not, you might want to follow that link to have a look.

    And hang on to your seats. Change is never easy - for any of us - but resolving the Search problems we've had will be worth the pain.

    Sedans Host
  • leorphleorph Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 Aurora 3.5 with @15,000 miles on it. Sometimes when I drive at night it seems that the headlights will dim then get brighter for no apparant reason. The dealer gave me the "we couldn't duplicate the problem" line. I was just wondering if anyone else has had this problem and what the fix is? Thanks.
  • mike98cmike98c Posts: 293
    Does anyone know if the northstars use a hotwire system to measure the density of the air entering the engine? Also radiator on my 98 cracked near top middle on seam a couple inches above where support strut for radiator joins body of radiator. I know several other people have replaced radiators. Anyone know what the problem was with them?
  • Story time, New problem thats possible to our cars.

    Last weekend on vacation, 300miles away from home (Chicago burbs), my car starts to smell like gas. I stop at a Wallmart for further inspection, too find out that the hood is slighlty smoking. I open her up and get blasted by the smell of RAW GAS. There's a small consistent bit smoke rising from were the throttle body meets the block. #$*%. The whole car smells like gas now. I made it back to the cabin ok (20miles from the Walmart), but now the inside cabin smells like a gas station. My girl and I want to crack the window but of course it's raining cats and dogs too.

    Back at the cabin I checked for any loose connections, but couldn't find the problem. Didn't drive her the rest of the trip up in Michigan. On the 4 hour ride home, I left before my friends so they could see me stranded on the side of the road, Hopefully not on fire-testing out that GM Firewall. We made it home fine though, other than smelling straight gasoline for 4 hours. Actually got 25.4 mpg on ride home, go figure? Unload my stuff and went staright to the dealer to drop off.

    It turned out to be the fuel rail(s). I was hoping it would be the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) since they have a history of going bad, but it wasn't. OK how much for the fuel rail? "That's $460 NOT covered by your extended warrenty sir." DAM IT. While you got the fuel system apart, how much MORE for a new FPR (since these go bad on these cars and I haven't replaced it yet). It ended up being $580 Bucks out of pocket.
    A little bit of good did come out of this though, I now have nice New Chrome fuel lines by the block. The old ones were black rubber. Caught my eye right away.

    But the best part of that $580 is that IT DRIVES FASTER THAN EVER BEFORE!!!
    Sigh=$580 bucks more into that Classic Addiction


  • I put on my front strut brace and I am liking it. Drives little tighter and firmer, want to dig into those corners now. I want to get the rear brace too now, but it unfourtunatly wont fit with my stereo system.

    I've been SUPER BUSY these days. Now time to call around for a Dyno date yet. I will find time tomarrow. I sanded down the inside edges of the the intake kit to smooth out the air flow. Can't wait to put it in. I think I have the Throttle Body Replacement steps memorizied from my service manual.

    I need new tire too, soon. Can't decide. I want the stock chrome's too. Probably going to call AAArims if I can't get new knock offs from a Collision parts maker, keytone. Debating on wither to get michielns or something or go for the VOGUES. That white wall will look sharp on my white Aurora. Found a Fellow Aurora driver down the street from my work who has a pearl white Aurora with Vougues and the stock chromes. Looks pretty good with white wall and gold strip. But looking at his car i get distracted by the BIG ICE-MAN stickers accross the WHOLE front and rear bumper.

    Back of my mind says go for the Vogues, But hum? What's everyone think?

    Since I'm getting new tires and rims, might as well put in new KYB shocks up front and get some AC Delco self-load leveling Rears put on so it all can be done under 1 alignment. Should change handling a fair amount.

  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Leorph, check out the Intrigue board. Dimming headlights is a chronic problem on those cars, and they also use the 3.5. There's been a few iterations of the alternator, which has fixed the problem for some folks, but not others.

    Check out the thread, get the part for the redesigned alternator, and get thee to your dealer ASAP...

    Hope this helps,

  • musclecar97musclecar97 Posts: 111
    Thanks guys for the info on the fuel injection.

    What if?....The post about Edmunds changing the format got me to worrying...what happens if this board goes away? Where are we to go to keep up on each others' cars? Any ideas of other discussion boards where we could go in case of Edmunds discontinuance of this board?
  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Posts: 181
    musclecar97 - If Edmunds were to disapeer I think gmforums.com would be where everyone would go. If you haven't checked it out, go to www.gmforums.com then click on the forums link. The Aurora is under Oldsmobile.

    Does anybody know the wieght of chrome wheels and the wieght of the alloy wheels?
  • aurora5000aurora5000 Posts: 168
    If it still has the factory warranty, You need to find out where your Oldsmobile Zone office is. Keep raising hell with the dealership or take it to another one. It is evident they don't want to deal with it. Do not accept their answer.

    RJS, Garnes,Shucknet what is your take?

    Bad Gas? Flush fuel system?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Aurora5000, he posted this on the GMForums page. My advice was to try another dealership first to see if it isn't just a crappy dealer. Second, call Oldsmobile and tell them he isn't satisfied. If he has to, he can pursue lemon laws if he gets no help from GM (which would be a real shame).

    There is no way that knocking is normal. If they don't know how to fix it, then swap the engine. See if that fixes it. If not, keep swapping parts until the whole car is new or the problem is fixed. The "we don't know" thing is total crap. The customer shouldn't have to suck up the dealership's ignorance of a fix. If they don't know how to fix it, then start replacing... If they don't want to endure that expense, then they'd better start figuring out how to fix it.

    Oh, he said it was gasoline independent. And it gets worse in warmer weather. It sounds like an engine problem. Maybe a bad knock-sensor, screwy ignition coils, or some PCM problem. Whatever it is, it certainly isn't normal. It's a shame that there are some dealerships that just try to stick the customer. It's even more shameful that sometimes GM facilitates it. I don't know what they think the impact of that will be. Obviously it will turn a person off to your products, and probably forever. It's very hard to win back people who had bad experiences.

    I doubt Edmunds will drop our Owner's Club or lose the messages. I think they are just going to change the format/appearance of the boards. If they alienate all their users, they will obviously have some problems.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    No way! :)

    I'm not real sure myself what is in store for us, but I do know it is just a matter of reformatting what we already have. Have you read the letter? Take a look -- if you want to ask more about it, hop over to the Ask the Town Hall Hosts discussion on the News & Views board.

    But trust me -- we are not taking *anything* away, honest!

    Sedans Host
  • rhale2rhale2 Posts: 8
    I too have a leak in my fuel rail. Was able to make a temporary "patch" by hoseclamping a piece of fuel line over the leak. I'm a GM (HUGHES) employee, and can buy parts at cost. The new fuel rail assy is $138. I'm considering trying to replace it myself. Has anyone else tried this?
    Shop manual talks about needing a tool to remove/reseat the injectors.
    By the way, I'm a first time post, long time browser. 95 with 115k miles.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    knocking - I second rjs's post. I'd guess something in the computer. I can't believe a dealer would blow that off. That is flat out not running right. Unbelievable. It's dealers like that that hurt the car/manufacturer.

    800wattaurora - I'm putting 2001 chromed alloy Aurora 17's on my 98. I hope to have them on by July. I think the current stock Aurora 4.0 wheels look great and are what should have been on the classic or at least an option. If anybody is interested, I know where you can get them for about $750. There are some catches - they are actually the non-chromed factory originals that have been stripped and then chromed. The center caps are not factory original so you have to spend another 160 or so to get the right ones with the Olds symbol. Still the wheels are GM, they look great and the total price is reasonable for such an upgrade using a chrome alloy wheel. I hate most of the aftermarket wheels stuff. Tacky is putting it mildly IMHO. Most of them look like they belong in the deli as a meat cutter.

    Matrixfrog - All the Aurora wheels are alloy as far as I know and should weigh the same whether or not they are chromed. The Aurora 17's I have in the basement are about 20 lbs or so. I think the shipping data on the box of 2 shows 44 lbs (if my memory serves me right). The box is pretty beefy, so I'd guess the factory 17's are about 20 lbs each +/-.
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    I say go for the aftermarket wheels you can beat nothing like some 18 or 20's for the Classic Aurora. I have on my 1999 Black Aurora, I know I'vee said it before some 18 inch Lexani chrome wheels with some Nitto eXtreme tires size 235/40ZR18. I say go for the 20's, if you don't feel comfortable with the 20's then check out some 18" rims. The Classic Aurora just looks more agressive with bigger wheels, plus my Aurora handles cornering way better than with the stock wheels. If your willing to spend the money for some 18 or 20 then go for it. When I first bought my 18's I was like damn they look nice but, now I wish I had bought the 20's. Oh by the way I'm willing to sell my 18 inch wheels drop me a line here if anyone here is interested in upgrading thier Aurora. Peace.
  • jonbgoodjonbgood Posts: 157
    I'm looking into perhaps buying an '01 Aurora. I asked the current owner if it was bought with the 60k warranty. He said it was but didn't know how to transfer it. I assumed this was an oldsmobile warranty that transfered like any other warranty on a car that was purchased with a factory warranty. Does anyone know on the warranty incentive Olds. is giving out now?
  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    My fuel rail sprung a leak on my 95 with about 65k miles and I thought about trying to fix it myself but saw that I would have to pull out all the injectors and said I better leave this to the big boys. My cost was about $540 for the job.
  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Posts: 181
    javidogg- What is the bolt pattern and size you have to get for the Aurora? I've been looking for some on Ebay but I didnt know what the specs were.

    How do the 18's fit? I assume you got low profile tires? I would like to get bigger rims but I dont want to pay and arm and a leg for tires.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    Man, isn't that a bit large? I think the overall diameter of the wheel/tire is like 26-27". That means there'd only be about 3" of tire. With the tread and all, that would only be about 2" of sidewall. I guess you'd save a lot of money on tire dressing... Plus you could fill them up to their required 50psi with a bicycle pump in about 20 seconds (wouldn't take more than about 3 pumps). And if you got a flat, the ride height really wouldn't change much. :)

    Seriously, though, wouldn't 20"ers result in a rather stiff ride? And wouldn't they add a lot of unsprung weight? This can hamper acceleration and braking because of the extra force required to rotate the mass (more than if you just put the extra weight in the trunk or something). Plus it can make the ride more clomp-clompy as that extra weight hits bumps and such.
  • jimr97jimr97 Posts: 13
    I've just notice that the steering wheel on my 97 has some play in it. If I hold it at 9 oclock and 3 oclock I can rock it side to side slightly. I can also rock it up and down although it doesn't seem to have as much play up and down as it does side to side. I don't think this is normal since I didn't notice it before. Although, it doesn't appear to be dangerous as the wheel seems to be tightly attached to the steering shaft. Perhaps the upper column mount is loose, or the tilt mechanism. Has anyone else noticed this? If so, how do I fix it?
    Thanks for any info.
  • aurora5000aurora5000 Posts: 168
    RJS--Didn't you have a post somewhere about similarities or did I just have a brain fart?
  • Jimr97 -
    My Aurora exhibits the same symptom. I'm going to try to take the plastic cover off the column and see if there are tilt wheel bolts that need to be tightened. There's some sort of weird hex thing holding it on though, so I'll need a special tool. I wish I knew what was causing it.
  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I have not had this issue with the Aurora. (Everybody say AMEN). However, I was told that I had actually caused this problem with my Cutlass. When I used to get out of the Cutlass I used to pull on the steering wheel to get out of the car. My mechanic told me that this constant pulling to one side will loosen thesterring wheel over time and that you would need to have the bolts tighten again.

    The FIX that worked for me was to stop pulling on the wheel. I now make it a point to just grab the A piller if I need to use a little leverage to get out the car.

    The Shop King
  • javidoggjavidogg Posts: 366
    In Reply to:
    How do the 18"s fit? I assume you got low profile tires? I would like to get bigger rims but I dont want to pay and arm and a leg for tires.

    The 18" rims fit well or I should say more like perfect because I bought them from http://www.superbuytires.com they specialized in nothing more than wheels and tires, there fore they will let you know what fits into your vehicle. There not going to sell you something that won't fit into your Aurora. As for the bolt pattern & size, I think it's 115mm lug pattern, size 16x7, 5 lug of course found on http://www.AAArims.com and yeah for my tires I went with size 235/40/ZR18 since I went up to sizes from 16 to 18, I had to get low profile tires to even out the fitment, even then I still have about3 inches to play with, that's why I'm considering getting 20" rims. Getting bigger rims is not going to create any problems on the Aurora,
    the only thing you might notice, it would be your break pads being replaced slightly sooner than usual and yes you will feel the asphalt closer to your Aurora but, that's because of the larger rim. I've gotten used to my Aurora rolling on 18's and it just looks more aggressive, you can't get that from your stock Aurora.
  • jimr97jimr97 Posts: 13
    Well, I decided to take the shroud off the steering column to find out where the play is. I found it. It's the pivot for the tilt steering. The pivot is a big steel pin that goes through a block piece that initially looks like aluminum. However, upon closer inspection, it's not aluminum, but plastic. Yes, we must remember GM's love affair with the material. Well, the plastic hole that the steel pin is in is slightly worn. This is on the left side, the hole on the right side still look pretty good. As Henry says, this can happen by pulling on the wheel when one gets out of the car. Now in my case I don't even touch the wheel when getting in or out. However, I do occasionally like to take corners faster than normal. Since the Aurora doesn't have much in the way of side bolsters on the seat, you have to support yourself while cornering hard. Turning right is not too much of a problem because you can brace your left leg against the door. However, when turning left there is nothing to brace against so I tend to use the steering wheel for support. This is probably what caused the wear in my case. For those of you who like to tilt the wheel up when exiting, you may eventually also experience some premature wear. The only way I can see to fix this, besides replacing the tilt section, is to drive a small shim in the hole. I believe there is enough room to do this. It's ashame that GM decided to use plastic for this part on a car that originally sold for close to $40,000. Unfortunately, it's not surprising.
  • musclecar97musclecar97 Posts: 111
    jimr- Thanks for the detective work. Doesn't sound like a safety concern.

    frog- Thanks for the other site info. Not that I think edmunds is going anywhere, but in this day and age you never know and I thought that it would be a good idea for us to all land in the same place. In 10 years or so we'll need to be scheduling national Aurora car club events so we'll need to be able to stay in touch.
  • rocket3_50rocket3_50 Posts: 42
    Here's a request for suggestions from fellow Aurorians in the central part of the country. I've got a baseball trip planned with my new high school graduate - - 3 days in Cincinnati, 4 days in Chicago, and 3 days in St. Louis, and then back to Charlotte, NC. While this trip is not mainly about the Aurora, I'd appreciate any recommendations for routes or side trips that would be fun to drive in the Aurora. As you can imagine, I'm not so much interested in the quickest way from A to B, since we have plenty of time. I'm more interested in stretches of road that you have enjoyed in your Aurora.

    2K1, 3.5
  • matrixfrogmatrixfrog Posts: 181
    javi- What Lexani's do you have? Just curious.
  • larryfllarryfl Posts: 214
    Yesterday, after my son and then my wife had each driven my car, I got in to move it just a few inches in the garage. I started it, moved it back about 6" and as I was turning off the ignition noticed the 'service engine soon' light was on. It went off, of course, as I turned off the car and it hasn't come back on since.

    Now the weirdness... The next time I got in the car, both the Change Oil Now and Change Trans Fluid Now messages appeared on the DIC. Both had zeroed themselves to 0% life left. The oil life should have had about 60% or so left and we all know the Trans Fluid life has never been below 99%.

    My first reaction was to blame my son or wife for pushing buttons.. but realized, of course, that they couldn't have set the life to zero for either one. Nothing else was reset or lost, every other value including clock, seats and radio presets were unchanged. And, I was able to reset each value to 100%.

    What's up with this? Anyone else have anything like that happen?
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