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Oldsmobile Aurora

1…5455575960…187

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  • lobstermanlobsterman Posts: 31
    i was two months off on each of my claims with wg. alternator in oct., radiator in dec. and hubs in feb. my other warranty service happened under the factory period, passenger seat motor replaced. i called my dealer and he said when they plug into the diagnostic port, they will be able to pin point the cause. true?
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  • shucknetshucknet Posts: 98
    Yes, that is true as long as the check engine light is on. That indicates that a code has been set in the computer because something isn't working right.
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  • aurorabillaurorabill Posts: 22
    I have been reading lots about the 2002 Altima, so I thought I'd stop by my local dealer to give it a try.

    I checked out a discussion here on Edmunds about this car and most of the comments were about how downscale the interior is. I looked at 3 interior offerings and the lower cost cloth is nice. The leather or leather-top is a disappointment. The dealer actually offers a real leather aftermarket seat - it looks okay, but somehow Nissan may have missed the boat on this feature.

    The car was supposed to be priced (according to magazine speculation)at a high of $23,000. Most of the 6 cylinder models (240 HP) were over that and one was over $29K>

    The handling was okay although I didn't get a chance to really test it. The acceleration was good, but not what I would expect from a car that supposedly does under 6.5 for 0-60 (with a stick). I drove the automatic; living in rush hour traffic around here (NJ) does not make a stick very practical, sorry to say.

    Steering was very tight, maybe cause its a new car. The interior is like a "high-teens" Japanese car. The ride is okay, but baby, its hard to go from a luxury-sport-galaxy cruiser like the Aurora into one of these. The trunk is ample, good enough for my needs.

    I'd like to throw in my .02 and douse a little water on the press coverage of this car. It looks great, although soon there will be many on the road and the inevitable copycats so it will be just another Accord-Camry-Nissan. Anyway the press seemed to be raving about the performance for the price. Nobody seems to be saying what I have now concluded: this is just a card trick. A few years ago you could get a Maxima for a little over $20K. This Altima is basically less car for more money. The Altima is actually a little bigger in some of the dimensions, but with a much cheaper interior.

    I am glad this car is on the market and it is probably the right car for someone moving up to an Altima/Maxima, but it is hard to consider after riding around in an Aurora for almost 2 years.

    We now return you to your regularly scheduled program... the Aurora.

    Aurorabill
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  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Aurorabill - your reasoning seems pretty clear. Card trick is a pretty good analogy. And you are right, after driving the sleek luxury Aurora with the fighter-jet dash and controls, most other cars leave you empty.

    Yeah, I've had it with all the HP and 0 to 60 hype and nonsense in the auto industry. Various publications post widely different numbers for the same car, and the MFG always seems to claim something that at the very least pushes the envelope of honesty. Isn't this the same company that had to revise HP claims? Because they LIED. The credibility is gone. I've seen our Impala 3.8 listed at 7.7 for 0 to 60. I love that car too but NO WAY it is that fast. If so, My Autobahn has got to be in the 6's. Blk97aurora listed a wide range of 0 to 60 times for the autobahn in 1995.

    After going to the dyno, and getting into this a little, I realize how unimportant "peak HP" is. First of all, the torque is what launches the car. And some of these cars with high HP have much less torque, and make you climb past 6000 rpms to get all the HP. A really steep climbing HP curve that perhaps levels off early is going to give you more performance than one that climbs more slowly - even if finishing at a higher HP at some screaming rpm. I still think a Caddy SLS if given the 3.71 transaxle might be quicker than an STS. The SLS just has more HP and torque throughout most of the power curves.

    Well I got an e-mail from Granatelli Motor Sports. I guess they are done with the mass air flow meter and custom built it. They said they bench tested it and it allowed 38% more air flow. I'm not sure under what pressure differential, and maybe they will clarify this with my follow up e-mail. Ultimately, I'll dyno it and let you guys know what happens. I hope some of you others may be interested in letting the Aurora breath better and really pump out the HP and torque.

    FJK - I was referring to really high rpms like 5000 being possible conditions for producing deposits, but yeah, I was always under the impression that a long highway drive was good for cleaning things out.
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  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    Posted without editorial comment:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597219175&r=0&t=0
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  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    Henry, I bought a harness (about $80) that hooks up to the radio and to the cd changer in the trunk. With this harness attached you could use the steering wheel controls also. There is a canal on the right side of the car for the wiring and all you do is plug the harness into the radio, drop the harness in the canal and slip the end of harness through the back seat into the trunk. I used velcro pads on my cd changer in the trunk because I did not want to drill any holes and placed right on the floor. Works perfectly.
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  • gisomgisom Posts: 144
    It is very helpful to have this board because that is what you are looking for to find out if anyone has had the same problem you are having so that you can find out what the solution was or at least point you in the right direction. I have not drove past any import service shop empty because the so called import cars are so much better. They sure are not in there just getting oil changes. I love being in my classic and it is really a dream on the highway. Everyone who has ridden in my car have nothing but praise about it, impressed the way the dash lights up at night, the gadgets because the Aurora has every toy in it, and of course the beauty of that northstar v8. Even though Olds is going away I am going to buy me a '04' aurora.
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  • hardestyhardesty Posts: 166
    ... as the latest from GM says that the Aurora 4.0 will end prodution in May of 2003. The Aurora 3.5 will end production with the Intrigue this coming spring after only two years. My 2002 4.0 is just approaching 1000 miles, and has broken in nicely. The V8 is incredibly smooth, one of the advantages of one extra blast on every revolution is a rock steady 600 RPM idle. Torque steer is gone completely, traction control off, hands off, pedal down from a dead stop results in straight line fun. If you are really interested in having one of the very last made, I would keep an eye on GM. They may change the schedule again as it seems that many Olds dealers are closing now. Once a multi-line dealer takes the GM buy out deal and closes the Olds part of their dealership, they are no longer authorized to sell new Oldsmobiles, even the ones that are still on the lot.
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  • keithpskeithps Posts: 3
    I replaced my early production 4.0 '01 with a leftover '01. Now I have the 5-60 warranty,
    OnStar, a sunroof and the White Diamond paint. I was approaching 17k miles on my
    Cappuchino model. I had considered buying an extended warranty, but decided to go
    with a fresh start. There really isn't another brand of car that I'd prefer right now. I'm
    hoping over the next five years that there will be something new that I like.

    The only thing lacking on my new Aurora is a cd changer in the trunk. It's not possible
    to add the Delco factory model. I checked with a local Pioneer dealer about installing an
    RF model that hooks up to the fm antenna, but when the installer looked at the car, he
    couldn't see any place to attach it to the antenna.

    Keith Smith
    see how to attach it.
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  • kemo444kemo444 Posts: 15
    i just bought a 97 with 59000 miles for 10900. i love this car. in city driving it runs about 190-220 degrees. is this the normal range for the aurora? it seems a little hotter than my previous cars. the car is silver/teal mist with autobahn. once i drove it i fell in love and found out what a good price it was and that was it. mine! would someone respond about the normal operating temp for these fine autos. thanks
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  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    In stop and go traffic when its hot (over 85) the aurora's run a bit warm. I think this is because there is no radiator grill and the fans have to pull the air up from below the bumper. Anyway, I have not noticed any caddy owners concerned about their engines running warm.
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  • smcmillansmcmillan Posts: 1
    I have seen various posting on this board about extended warranties for a 1999 Aurora, but have not checked it lately, so sorry. The General Motors Protection Plan (GMPP) is about double the price of the warranties offered by Interstate National Dealer Services (warrantydirect.com) and American Guardian (Warrantybynet.com). Each of the independent outfits covers things the other independent does not. Any suggestions/comments? Thanks!
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  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Congratulations! The temps you mentioned sound just like my car. Everybody asks that when they get one. I think you are fine.

    Make sure you read over the old posts here for lots of good service information in case anything happens. The guys on this board really know the car. I highly recommend it. Go as far back as you can.
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  • delrickdelrick Posts: 105
    Have been following the discussions concerning aftermarket devices. I assume that most, if not all, of this discussion relates to the 4.0.

    After reading some of the reviews, comparing the price of the 3.5 vs 4.0, and driving a sweet 3.5 powered Intrugue for over 2 years, I am leaning heavily toward ordering a 3.5 Aurora.

    Anybody here drive one of these cars?

    I know the Aurora is heavier than the Intrigue, couple hundred pounds I think, but I have been very satisfied with the performance of this engine in the Intrigue. And that means foot in the valves, tweaking front tires stuff.

    Anybody have any hands on comparisons? Is the 4.0 worth the $4 to $5 grand difference, if money is an object?
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  • webescapeewebescapee Posts: 3
    Hi Aurorabill the dealer estimate is 12hrs to change my transmission I had a service code which read Turbine sensor error. The dealer informed me a GM rebuild was 5k Cdn + 12 hrs labour which is 4k U.S. the car ran fine. I find the Aurora is prone to giving false codes, more so if it is hot out. Fall came, codes went away.But I still love the car.
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  • hammen2hammen2 Posts: 1,313
    About a month and a half ago, I went with 1Source Auto Warranty (http://www.1sourceautowarranty.com) for my Aurora. They "used" to have a section in the Finance/Warranty board and used to be Edmunds' "chosen" warranty partner (Warranty Gold before them, WarrantyByNet since then).

    Their pricing was fair, and their (pre-sales) customer service good. I did not hear the horror stories about them that I did from WG (Henri and others). One thing I like about them (in theory) is that they are their own warranty administrator. Their financial backing (reinsurer PrimeGuard) seems decent as well.

    They supposedly pay shop rates and one deductible per visit (not per repair). I have the $0 deductible so it doesn't matter for me.

    Bear in mind that my factory warranty expires 11/29, and I've not yet had an opportunity to use 1Source's services.

    I don't speak for them/have no interest (financial or otherwise) in their success, other than as a customer who hopes his experiences with the company are good. Of course, I hope my Aurora doesn't suffer the maladies of many on this board, so that I don't have to find out :-)

    --Robert
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  • kemo444kemo444 Posts: 15
    would some other owners comment on their experiences with warranties. i am fixing to get an extended warranty from the web and would like to hear some pros and cons before i spend my dime. thanks
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  • jcy2k1jcy2k1 Posts: 9
    I own a 2K1 Aurora 4.0. The car has been an absolute headache, and BTW, is currently in the shop addressing a transmission whine issue. But like others on this board, I still maintain the desire to own and drive it because of its many positive attributes. I researched heavily before purchasing the car comparing many makes. One comparison was between the 3.5 and 4.0 versions of the Aurora. When you compare apples to apples and figure in all the packages needed to bring the 3.5 up to the level of equipment that the 4.0 comes standard with, the price difference comes to about $2400. This isn't too bad, IMO, for the added performance. I felt that the 3.5 performed really well. When you stepped on it, it growled and went. But when you step on the 4.0, it purrs and zooms. I hope my wording doesn't throw you off, but for me, the 4.0 was just more desirable. I really noticed the difference at about 50 mph. When I punched the 3.5 at that speed, it downshifted and accelerated quickly. When I did the same in the 4.0, it felt like it lifted up and launched. Its a 'seat of the pants' type feeling but one that I, for my money, wanted. As a counterpoint, I feel that the 3.5 may be more bulletproof and less prone to failure but I'm saying that based on my personal experience as I've had numerous minor and major problems. Others on this board have had few or no probs with the same car. I had a 3.5 ordered but passed it by for the 4.0. Once again, a matter of opinion. Best of luck-they're both nice!
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  • shucknetshucknet Posts: 98
    My experiences thus far:

    Was travelling on a business trip and oen of the guys in my group got an Aurora 3.5 as his rental car. The 3.5 was ok, but really was not enough engine to pull the car around that well, especially with 4 guys in it.

    My 98 (with the 4.0, of course) has no problems with a full load of people. To me, that was the biggest differences.

    The sound of the V8 is cooler. The v8 just has that flatter HP and torque curve that make the car easier to drive. Sure, if you stomp on the V6 it'll move the car, but it takes a lot less effort from the V8.

    If you're a serious Aurora person, you will demand the V8 as the Aurora is supposed to be a sport / luxury sedan. The v6 version was simply made to replace the 88 and with GM trying to fit that car into a segment like that, ruined the future of the Aurora.

    So, V8, V8, V8, V8.
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  • hardestyhardesty Posts: 166
    I'll weigh in in favor of the V8. Having owned both a 2001 & 2002 Aurora 4.0 and having test driven a 2001 3.5, I can't say enough good about the V8. The numbers just don't tell the story. The Aurora (classic & current) was designed to carry the V8 motor and the 4T80E transmission. The 3.5 V6 & 4T65E tranny fits, but is less weight than the front suspension was designed for and exhibits torque steer that the V8 combo lacks. As shucknet stated, the torque curve of the V8 is sweet, and the peak numbers hide a major powerhorse from outside view. If I turn off the traction control, I can light up the rubber through an intersection. This is with 1200 lbs on each front tire (235/55-17). When the car is put in drive, it does a musclecar twist of torque at idle, begging to be let free. If buying on a budget, I would opt for a slightly used V8 over a new V6. The poor resale value of Oldsmobiles makes for some incredible bang for the buck on the used car lots.
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  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    Re: #1767. I wanted to add the stock CD changer to my '97 Aurora. After spotting one on eBay, I checked my car for the wiring -- not there. Which was a surprise given my experience with GM cars over many years. So I found a source for the cable. Next surprise -- when I pulled the radio (stock, with Tape / CD button) there was no connector for the CD changer cable. There was a slot in the chassis for it, but no connector.
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  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Hardesty - great descriptions. It's nice to hear someone acknowledge that the "peak" numbers can be misleading. It's really all about the "area under the curve" and how much power you have going all the way up. With the traction off, I too was surprised as to how much rubber I got on the big heavy 98 - very new tires too.

    Well, I'm scheduled to hit the dyno this coming Monday. What a rush. I've finished with a lot more modifications on the air box. It's done now. I have taken before and after pictures and I really think the box will perform better than the first time. I also hope to get the pictures and everything on the caddyinfo.com site as well. Hopefully that torque curve will flatten out even more.

    I'll test the granatelli mass air flow meter too I hope. I have to admit, it is just a modified unit from the dealer. The screen is removed and it was somewhat crudely bored out. It has been recalibrated for the greater flow capabilities. The fuel/air ratio's are to stay the same I think. Just more fuel for the additional air. I think the dyno can monitor what is happening with that too. I'm really wondering about this thing now.

    Cat back system - I called Corsa, and they are still busy with "meat and potato" truck stuff. I hassled them to doing something I hope. If any of you is really interested in a stainless steel cat-back for the Aurora, go to http://www.corsaperf.com and drop Jim Browning Jr. an e-mail. He said they have a request for a 2001 Aurora as well. Perhaps I'm the only nut here that wants this bad.
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  • shucknetshucknet Posts: 98
    You probably got the wrong cable, then. The Olds units (and all full double DIN usits) have a 32 pin connector on the back as opposed to the segmented 20 (or so) pin connector on the 1 - 1/2 DIN units.


    The CD Changer cable you need is one that actually plugs between your stereo and the factory harness. It basically splits off the wires for the CD changer and runs them to the trunk. The cable you got is probably one for a Chevy. Those are different.


    This is the cable you need:

    http://store3.yimg.com/I/electronman_1648_4667718


    This is probably the cable you have:

    http://store3.yimg.com/I/electronman_1648_648913


    I would keep an eye on ebay for them. If you want, I can give you a link to a place that sells them (e-mail me ryan@shucknet.com since edmunds doesn't like it if I say where to buy it here) but they are expensive ($75) from those guys. I got mine off ebay for about $35.

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  • wingnut396wingnut396 Posts: 50
    Hey, thats only about 45 minutes away! Some strange, rubbernecking side of me want to go check it out.

    Also, if I could get that for 2K, then I'll have a whole backup Aurora for later :)

    For Aurora Bill: "luxury-sport-galaxy cruiser" . Is that the official EPA class description? Great description.
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  • HenryHenry Posts: 1,106
    I believe the Aurora is a Galaxy Class vehicle.
    The Intrigue is more Intrepid Class.

    I was at home today when the car did the unnerving 1/2 second delayed crank.

    Anybody have ANY ideas????

    Henri
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  • mlm4mlm4 Posts: 401
    We have an Alero in our household fleet, and it exhibits the same delayed cranking effect when the key is turned to START -- about a half-second. Others on the Alero forum have experienced the same thing. My 2000 Bonneville also has a very very slight delay if I turn the key quickly after inserting the key into the ignition switch. My best educated guess is that it has something to do with PassKey II. Maybe it takes the system a second to validate the transponder in the key head. On my Bonnie there doesn't seem to be a delay if I wait a second or two after inserting the key before trying to start the engine, but that's not based on scientific evidence. Just a guess...
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  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Henri - that pass key idea from mlm4 may not be a bad thing to look into. The dealer told me about a person that had "ghost" problems with the car not starting - just nothing when the key is turned. It ended up being the chip in the key going bad. Try using a different spare key. Sorry if it sounds stupid. I have no idea if the pass-key is an all-or-nothing deal (works or doesn't) and could give the problems you have.

    Has anybody removed the console?? I think you start by removing the screws in the middle compartment. I'd love to get at the clear plastic lens over the R-N-D-3-2-1 display. It has some crud on the back side. Any suggestions as to taking this apart for cleaning?? Anybody done it?

    Also - If I could get some 2001/02 Aurora 17 inch chrome, what tire size will match the stock 235/60/16's on the 98? The brochure for 2001 lists the 17's as being 235/55's. Are these the same height as my stock wheels and tires?

    I'm having the junk yard do a computer search. I'll bet the dealer would want over 2k for them. What would be a "fair" price? Under 1k?
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  • fjk57702fjk57702 Posts: 539
    235/55/17 will be .1 inches larger diameter than the 235/60/16. Goodyear makes eagle LS's in this size. Their web site has specs. To compute diameter do this: 235*0.55/25.4*2+17=27.2 & stock is: 235*.6/25.4*2+16=27.1 Goodyear says they are 0.1 inches less than that. ??? Close enough for ...
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  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    fjk - thanks. Tires probably vary .1 inch just from tire inflation differences sometimes. That should be close enough or really as close as possible. I can't believe all the good info so many of you got. Thanks again.

    Something tells me it will be hard to find these wheels. I'd love to do it. They look great and are "Olds".
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  • shucknetshucknet Posts: 98
    Wheels - there was a set on eBay last week that were about $600.


    See if you can contact the seller.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=596638264&r=0&t=0


    I would recommend Goodyear Eagle RS-As or some sort of Michelin V or Z rated tire. I can't stand driving S rated tires anymore, the sidewalls have too much flex in curves and you can just feel the tires rolling on the side. Not to mention, the RS-As look really nice, but the LSs are pretty plain.


    Console - I had part of mine apart, but never got into the shifter. If you get into it, let me know cuz I want to clean mine out and fix a little broken plastic piece. You start in the console itself and remove the interior, then there are some snaps under the wood trim that hold it together there. I didn't get it all the way out, so I can't help you much past there. I can look in my service manual and give you better instructions if you need it though.

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