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Comments
I checked out a discussion here on Edmunds about this car and most of the comments were about how downscale the interior is. I looked at 3 interior offerings and the lower cost cloth is nice. The leather or leather-top is a disappointment. The dealer actually offers a real leather aftermarket seat - it looks okay, but somehow Nissan may have missed the boat on this feature.
The car was supposed to be priced (according to magazine speculation)at a high of $23,000. Most of the 6 cylinder models (240 HP) were over that and one was over $29K>
The handling was okay although I didn't get a chance to really test it. The acceleration was good, but not what I would expect from a car that supposedly does under 6.5 for 0-60 (with a stick). I drove the automatic; living in rush hour traffic around here (NJ) does not make a stick very practical, sorry to say.
Steering was very tight, maybe cause its a new car. The interior is like a "high-teens" Japanese car. The ride is okay, but baby, its hard to go from a luxury-sport-galaxy cruiser like the Aurora into one of these. The trunk is ample, good enough for my needs.
I'd like to throw in my .02 and douse a little water on the press coverage of this car. It looks great, although soon there will be many on the road and the inevitable copycats so it will be just another Accord-Camry-Nissan. Anyway the press seemed to be raving about the performance for the price. Nobody seems to be saying what I have now concluded: this is just a card trick. A few years ago you could get a Maxima for a little over $20K. This Altima is basically less car for more money. The Altima is actually a little bigger in some of the dimensions, but with a much cheaper interior.
I am glad this car is on the market and it is probably the right car for someone moving up to an Altima/Maxima, but it is hard to consider after riding around in an Aurora for almost 2 years.
We now return you to your regularly scheduled program... the Aurora.
Aurorabill
Yeah, I've had it with all the HP and 0 to 60 hype and nonsense in the auto industry. Various publications post widely different numbers for the same car, and the MFG always seems to claim something that at the very least pushes the envelope of honesty. Isn't this the same company that had to revise HP claims? Because they LIED. The credibility is gone. I've seen our Impala 3.8 listed at 7.7 for 0 to 60. I love that car too but NO WAY it is that fast. If so, My Autobahn has got to be in the 6's. Blk97aurora listed a wide range of 0 to 60 times for the autobahn in 1995.
After going to the dyno, and getting into this a little, I realize how unimportant "peak HP" is. First of all, the torque is what launches the car. And some of these cars with high HP have much less torque, and make you climb past 6000 rpms to get all the HP. A really steep climbing HP curve that perhaps levels off early is going to give you more performance than one that climbs more slowly - even if finishing at a higher HP at some screaming rpm. I still think a Caddy SLS if given the 3.71 transaxle might be quicker than an STS. The SLS just has more HP and torque throughout most of the power curves.
Well I got an e-mail from Granatelli Motor Sports. I guess they are done with the mass air flow meter and custom built it. They said they bench tested it and it allowed 38% more air flow. I'm not sure under what pressure differential, and maybe they will clarify this with my follow up e-mail. Ultimately, I'll dyno it and let you guys know what happens. I hope some of you others may be interested in letting the Aurora breath better and really pump out the HP and torque.
FJK - I was referring to really high rpms like 5000 being possible conditions for producing deposits, but yeah, I was always under the impression that a long highway drive was good for cleaning things out.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=597219175&r=0&t=0
OnStar, a sunroof and the White Diamond paint. I was approaching 17k miles on my
Cappuchino model. I had considered buying an extended warranty, but decided to go
with a fresh start. There really isn't another brand of car that I'd prefer right now. I'm
hoping over the next five years that there will be something new that I like.
The only thing lacking on my new Aurora is a cd changer in the trunk. It's not possible
to add the Delco factory model. I checked with a local Pioneer dealer about installing an
RF model that hooks up to the fm antenna, but when the installer looked at the car, he
couldn't see any place to attach it to the antenna.
Keith Smith
see how to attach it.
Make sure you read over the old posts here for lots of good service information in case anything happens. The guys on this board really know the car. I highly recommend it. Go as far back as you can.
After reading some of the reviews, comparing the price of the 3.5 vs 4.0, and driving a sweet 3.5 powered Intrugue for over 2 years, I am leaning heavily toward ordering a 3.5 Aurora.
Anybody here drive one of these cars?
I know the Aurora is heavier than the Intrigue, couple hundred pounds I think, but I have been very satisfied with the performance of this engine in the Intrigue. And that means foot in the valves, tweaking front tires stuff.
Anybody have any hands on comparisons? Is the 4.0 worth the $4 to $5 grand difference, if money is an object?
Their pricing was fair, and their (pre-sales) customer service good. I did not hear the horror stories about them that I did from WG (Henri and others). One thing I like about them (in theory) is that they are their own warranty administrator. Their financial backing (reinsurer PrimeGuard) seems decent as well.
They supposedly pay shop rates and one deductible per visit (not per repair). I have the $0 deductible so it doesn't matter for me.
Bear in mind that my factory warranty expires 11/29, and I've not yet had an opportunity to use 1Source's services.
I don't speak for them/have no interest (financial or otherwise) in their success, other than as a customer who hopes his experiences with the company are good. Of course, I hope my Aurora doesn't suffer the maladies of many on this board, so that I don't have to find out :-)
--Robert
Was travelling on a business trip and oen of the guys in my group got an Aurora 3.5 as his rental car. The 3.5 was ok, but really was not enough engine to pull the car around that well, especially with 4 guys in it.
My 98 (with the 4.0, of course) has no problems with a full load of people. To me, that was the biggest differences.
The sound of the V8 is cooler. The v8 just has that flatter HP and torque curve that make the car easier to drive. Sure, if you stomp on the V6 it'll move the car, but it takes a lot less effort from the V8.
If you're a serious Aurora person, you will demand the V8 as the Aurora is supposed to be a sport / luxury sedan. The v6 version was simply made to replace the 88 and with GM trying to fit that car into a segment like that, ruined the future of the Aurora.
So, V8, V8, V8, V8.
Well, I'm scheduled to hit the dyno this coming Monday. What a rush. I've finished with a lot more modifications on the air box. It's done now. I have taken before and after pictures and I really think the box will perform better than the first time. I also hope to get the pictures and everything on the caddyinfo.com site as well. Hopefully that torque curve will flatten out even more.
I'll test the granatelli mass air flow meter too I hope. I have to admit, it is just a modified unit from the dealer. The screen is removed and it was somewhat crudely bored out. It has been recalibrated for the greater flow capabilities. The fuel/air ratio's are to stay the same I think. Just more fuel for the additional air. I think the dyno can monitor what is happening with that too. I'm really wondering about this thing now.
Cat back system - I called Corsa, and they are still busy with "meat and potato" truck stuff. I hassled them to doing something I hope. If any of you is really interested in a stainless steel cat-back for the Aurora, go to http://www.corsaperf.com and drop Jim Browning Jr. an e-mail. He said they have a request for a 2001 Aurora as well. Perhaps I'm the only nut here that wants this bad.
The CD Changer cable you need is one that actually plugs between your stereo and the factory harness. It basically splits off the wires for the CD changer and runs them to the trunk. The cable you got is probably one for a Chevy. Those are different.
This is the cable you need:
http://store3.yimg.com/I/electronman_1648_4667718
This is probably the cable you have:
http://store3.yimg.com/I/electronman_1648_648913
I would keep an eye on ebay for them. If you want, I can give you a link to a place that sells them (e-mail me ryan@shucknet.com since edmunds doesn't like it if I say where to buy it here) but they are expensive ($75) from those guys. I got mine off ebay for about $35.
Also, if I could get that for 2K, then I'll have a whole backup Aurora for later
For Aurora Bill: "luxury-sport-galaxy cruiser" . Is that the official EPA class description? Great description.
The Intrigue is more Intrepid Class.
I was at home today when the car did the unnerving 1/2 second delayed crank.
Anybody have ANY ideas????
Henri
Has anybody removed the console?? I think you start by removing the screws in the middle compartment. I'd love to get at the clear plastic lens over the R-N-D-3-2-1 display. It has some crud on the back side. Any suggestions as to taking this apart for cleaning?? Anybody done it?
Also - If I could get some 2001/02 Aurora 17 inch chrome, what tire size will match the stock 235/60/16's on the 98? The brochure for 2001 lists the 17's as being 235/55's. Are these the same height as my stock wheels and tires?
I'm having the junk yard do a computer search. I'll bet the dealer would want over 2k for them. What would be a "fair" price? Under 1k?
Something tells me it will be hard to find these wheels. I'd love to do it. They look great and are "Olds".
See if you can contact the seller.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=596638264&r=0&t=0
I would recommend Goodyear Eagle RS-As or some sort of Michelin V or Z rated tire. I can't stand driving S rated tires anymore, the sidewalls have too much flex in curves and you can just feel the tires rolling on the side. Not to mention, the RS-As look really nice, but the LSs are pretty plain.
Console - I had part of mine apart, but never got into the shifter. If you get into it, let me know cuz I want to clean mine out and fix a little broken plastic piece. You start in the console itself and remove the interior, then there are some snaps under the wood trim that hold it together there. I didn't get it all the way out, so I can't help you much past there. I can look in my service manual and give you better instructions if you need it though.