2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala

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Comments

  • sweetpollysweetpolly Member Posts: 99
    Thanks for the info and link! And you're so funny! I kept my last car for 9 years and would have had it longer, had it not been totalled in an accident. So, it's possible that I'd keep the car for 10 years (maybe). I understand that you can buy tires to last you at least to 60,000 miles (that would be 5-6 years in my case), so, that's what I'm looking for.

    Now there are some nice looking cars being made nowadays and I just may buy a second car sometime in the future, however, I'd always keep the Impala in the family. To me, it's a great car and I love driving it! [hesitation and all!]
  • The Yokohama Avid Touring tires have an 80,000 mile warranty, if memory serves. They're also like $50 each, or something like that.
  • b4zb4z Member Posts: 3,372
    Your comments about edmund's are very uncharacteristic.
    Maybe a edit or delete is in order.
    If we all go to the "Reviews" section you will see a "Survey" icon on the right.
    Give edmunds' editor's low ratings as I did.
    They will eventually get the message.
    Their reviews are really poorly done. They write like a bunch of show off smart alecks who are gunning for jobs at M/T and Car and Driver.
  • moff3206moff3206 Member Posts: 13
    I have the navy blue paint that also has cracks on the roof, when I wash the car I see it and get pissed off. Car at the shop now (new rotors) I should have them look at it.
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    B4z::: Advice taken. =)

    I have noticed that the texture and even application of the Navy Blue paint tends to be very different from light colored cars such as Sandrift and Galaxy Silver. The paint is much better and evenly applied on the Sandrift and Galaxy silver cars. I have noticed some patches in my sister's Navy Blue Impala the other day when I was helping her washing it.

    My car is coming to a year and during that time it has never seen the roof of a garage. The car has been exposed to the paint destroying South Florida sun and yet the paint has been holding very well. It is very scratch resistant too. The paint looks pristine!

    On the other hand the Navy Blue scratches easily and again the texture and consistency of the paint appears to be of lower quality. The Navy blue is a very nice color otherwise, but I am glad I opted for Sandrift.

    Sweetpolly::: Welcome back!
  • sweetpollysweetpolly Member Posts: 99
    I'm still around, reading the Forum each day (I remember to do so). However, I'm still spending a lot of time (and money) on Ebay! What an auction site! I've picked up a number of items at extremely good prices. Haven't had to take my LS in lately. I suppose I'll need to find another service department since the one I was going to caught fire! Anyway, you guys keep up the info on the Impalas. Sooner or later, it's gonna help everyone who owns one! I'll be in and out periodically to see what's going on and comment when required. Otherwise, I'll quietly observe what's being said.

    Where's cookie? I haven't seen any posts from her lately.
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    Cookie I guess is MIA.
  • b4zb4z Member Posts: 3,372
    Is it just me or does the dark blue paint have a more of a mist quality than a metallic quality?
    There seems to be something else going on in that paint color.
    It sometimes takes on a hazy appearence like my bronze mist intrigue would.
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    If you look at the texture of the Sandrift or Silver paints in direct sunlight, you can see the "metallic" bits in it. The Navy blue has more of a "Latex" texture. But under direct sunlight you can still see the metallic bits.
  • duraflexduraflex Member Posts: 358
    A REVIEW is just one person's opinion - nothing more.

    Despite what reviewers said, the IMPALA has been in the TOP 10 sales category for sedans since its reintroduction for the 2000 model year.

    REVIEWS are often wrong not just on cars but many things.

    I saw a piece on the news today reporting that the hit play "Les Miserables" just celebrated its 25th ANNIVERSARY - 25 years and thousands of performances in theaters throughout the western world.

    Interestingly, initial reviews of the musical were very poor and predicted immediate failure.
    Guess they were wrong.

    On another note, pre-broadcast reviews of the new NBC show "Ellie" with Seinfeld alumnus Julie Louis-Dreyfus were very good. I disagree. I don't think it will make it unless it gets a whole lot better. Of course I also thought that a 1970s sitcom about two frumpy girls who worked in a Milawaukee brewery would never fly. That show was "LaVerne and Shirley" which went on for years.
  • b4zb4z Member Posts: 3,372
    Laverne and who?
  • larryhartlarryhart Member Posts: 23
    cabello/impalad , , , I've got 47K on my 2000 LS and the driver's window is starting to act up too. It always works in DOWN and DOWN EXPRESS but intermittently fails in UP position. Have youse guys fixed it yet? Do you know if it's the switch or motor? . . . Thx, LH
  • "Three's Company" was on for like 100 years. It still sucked. Professional critics or popular opinion both don't mean anything.

    (Even the theme song was atrocious, for cryin' out loud.)
  • moff3206moff3206 Member Posts: 13
    The blazer people on Edmonds suck. Does anyone own a 2000-01 blazer? I have one bought used 18K
    25k miles, no owners manual. Want to know how to set the doors to lock when put in gear. And also the max speed for 4wd. Thanks you guys are the best. (I know teo will know, or know where to send me for the answer).
  • spider717spider717 Member Posts: 106
    When driving at speeds great than, oh say, 15 MPH. DO NOT use the wiper fluid while the windows are down. This has not happened to me before in any other car I have driven. Dunno if it's a general GM thing, or just the new Imps.
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Member Posts: 2,287
    And watch who is behind you, too!

    I once got a whole convertible full of kids!

    They were not too happy, to say the least!
  • duraflexduraflex Member Posts: 358
    The difference on the Impala from some other cars is that the water spritzers are in the moving wiper arms rather than mounted in the hood or cowl.
  • mediumfrymediumfry Member Posts: 239
    Michelin X-One tires are great. Shouldn't have to pay more than $98 apiece for them though. I'm not into Yoko's, but if they're decent and last 80K miles and only cost $50 each, I'd almost give them a try. Can't believe that's what they really cost for a 225/65R16 but I haven't shopped around...
  • tonyj33tonyj33 Member Posts: 6
    i heard "through the grape vine" that the holden commadore i.e. the caddy catera is coming to chevy soon as an imapla to go up against the mercury P.O.S. i think it's too small to be a impala, they should bring over the larger bonneville/park avene sized Statesman, but at least it will be rear wheel drive and supposeably powered by a 5.7 making 325-350 looks like we'll wait and see...
  • fathertyriciusfathertyricius Member Posts: 116
    The design of the windshield wiper fluid system is exactly the same as the Lumina. I had one. If you intend to wash your windows while driving, roll the windows up. Any speed greater then ten mph, you the driver and your interior will get washed too if you keep the windows down. Not a great design.
  • ghostwolfghostwolf Member Posts: 91
    Hey Impala Lovers!

    I was gone for about 3 weeks and tried to catch up but still have some questions on the fuel filter and the PCV filter.

    My Impala has 20,000 miles, has not had either of those replaced. What milage intervals are they recommending? Is there any other preventative maintance items I should be looking at?

    Thanks!
    Ghostwolf
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I'm not sure what the recommended interval is on the fuel filter, but I just changed mine myself at @ 33K. I was able to back the car onto my ramps, which made the whole process pretty easy. You'll need a couple of wrenches, and a pretty good size discardable towell or rag to catch all the fuel that will spill out (the filter is about the size of a coffee cup, so you'll have about that much fuel spill out).

    Years ago on my '84 Skyhawk, I changed the filter, and the instructions I had for it had me disconnect something and then try to start the car a bit, to relieve pressure and remove fuel from the line before removing the filter. All I did this round was open the gas cap to relieve some pressure, but does anyone know of anything else we SHOULD be doing to remove fuel/pressure from the line (so one of us doesn't end up killing ourselves, or even worse, damaging our Impalas!)?

    One thing I do know - after changing oil, adding a K&N filter, and changing the fuel filter with a weeks time, I can say my Impala feels much more responsive; I don't feel like I'm "pushing" it with the gas pedal anymore - more like I'm trying to hold it back now. Haven't noticed any changed in fuel economy, but it surely runs better!
  • roderacerroderacer Member Posts: 311
    I would advise to take the your Impala to the dealer to have the 15K service. I know that the fuel filter is changed, oil, tires rotated, etc. I am not sure about the PCV valve. My guess is no, but I am sure they would accomodate you if you request it.

    You will notice an immediate change in the car's overall performance.

    Steve
  • hunter39hunter39 Member Posts: 375
    with taking the car in for the fuel filter replacement is the confiscatory rates that most dealers charge for this "service" My dealer has posted a fuel filter change "Starting at 54.95" I bought the filter at my local Checker Auto Parts for 9.99, a couple of wrenchs and jacking up the car and it was done in about 10 minutes. Now that my warranty has expired there are few things I would let the dealer do on my car now, just too expensive and time consuming. The Super Walmart has an oil change for 11.88, and that's Penzoil, not some recycled oil product. Why pay the dealer 22.95 for "QuickChange" of 29 minutes, I paid half that and got it done in about 10 min.

    About the only thing I will take it to the dealer for is the brake job, since it was recommended that some screws that go into the brakes be replaced with new ones upon being removed. I'm not sure why. Most brake places don't stock the screws so it would be easier to just do it at the dealer, plus the price isn't bad, at least in relation to other shops price for a brake job.

    That price for an oil change can hardly be beat even if you did it yourself, not to mention the time involved and disposal of the old oil. Unless it's your bag to do that kind of thing, I'd just as soon sit and watch it...
  • roderacerroderacer Member Posts: 311
    ...I'd do all the work on my Impala myself. Not that I couldn't perform an oil change, fuel filter change, tire rotation, etc. myself, it's just that I don't have a heated garage with the proper tools (not to mention the expertise to do it correctly the first time). To be honest, I am not really into the car maintenance side. Motorcycles? Well, that's a whole new ball of wax.

    As far as my Impala goes, I think 70 bucks for the manufacturer recommended service is worth it. Quick, efficient, done right, and not having to worry about a 16 year old that has never seen or worked on an Impala playing "trial and error" with my investment.

    Maybe I look at the dealer's service through rose colored glasses, but I want to be confident that if a screw up is made, GM will have to answer to it.

    And no offense to the gear heads out there. I am sure that you all know your cars better than I ever will - so more power to you! That's 70 bucks minus parts in your wallet - who's buyin?

    Steve
  • >>>and not having to worry about a 16 year old that has never seen or worked on an Impala playing "trial and error" with my investment.<<<

    That's true. I'd much rather have a 16 year old who has actually screwed up a couple of previous Impalas, work on mine.

    I'll gladly pay $20, 30, even $35 to have someone else change my oil. I don't have the time or inclination for climbing under the car, covering my hands and arms with hot, black, carcinigenic oil, or the proper storage and waste disposal for it. Same goes for ATF. Coolant? Maybe.

    But, I'm not gonna pay for most other maintenance items that cost about 10-20% of what the dealer charges. Fuel filter, air filter, PCV valve comes immediately to mind. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor are also easy. I do my brakes too, depending on my mood and what a shop will charge.

    F'rinstance, I spent about $120 in parts for new Brembo front rotors and Ferodo pads for my XJS. I plan on doing the same for the rear. $240 total for new pads AND rotors. Midas wanted about $1000-$1200 for a 4 wheel brake job!

    I'm no gearhead. But, I ain't stupid either.
  • night_owl1night_owl1 Member Posts: 760
    My next How-To article will be changing the PCV valve. It's really easy, no tools and you could probably could do it in under 10 minutes. I don't know that there is a recommended replacement period for this.

    I'll come up with a fuel filter changeout article some time soon. I'm pretty sure I saw instructions for this in the service manual so we'll see what actions Chevy recommends.
  • hunter39hunter39 Member Posts: 375
    Well I'm far from a gearhead, and it's not very cold in Arizona even in winter. The fella that changed my oil at Walmart was older than me (I'm 41 this year and no offense to him but he looked way older than me)They go thru a checklist when they do the car so I have more confidence in them than me, I always seem to forget something. Lets not forget that our friend Matt on this very site has been doing routine service on cars for at least a couple of years and he's probably not older than 18. Given his knowledge shared on this board about cars, he's a pretty good mechanic. Any 16 year old that is employed to do that kind of work has to have some aptitude for it and an interest or he'd be off riding a skateboard or snowboard and sparking a bong, not that they go together those things, but hey it happens! Any problem I've ever had with a fastlube place (and really I can only recall once) has always been taken care of with an apology and a free service coupon. I'm really just about finding the best deal for my money.
  • night_owl1night_owl1 Member Posts: 760
    I try and do as much of the work myself. I use it as an opportunity to see how everything is going. Does the oil look/smell ok? Is there any oil in the coolant? Are the brake pads wearing evenly? etc... Also, I don't trust the mechanics 100%, even the dealer ones. I believe someone on this board took his car to the dealer for an oil change and the dealer didn't tighten the drain plug. 4 quarts of oil on the driveway.
  • The only reason I ever go to a dealer for service is for warranty work. I never go to one after the warranty expires. Never.

    They are not only more expensive, but are quite often not as proficient as independant garages, despite the popular misconception that somehow the underpaid, underage, and inexperianced dealer mechanics know how to fix a Chevy better than a guy that's been fixing Chevys for 20 years. It's a CHEVY, for cryin' out loud. It's basically the same 3.8 they've been using for 1200 years.

    It doesn't take a lot of skill to plug in a ODBII connector, which os basically what the average dealer mechanic knows how to do.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I do most of the routine stuff on my Impala and my wife's Geo, but I can't do much of anything beyond fluid changes on my '82 F350 because virtually all my tools are metric! I bought my first car right out of high school almost 20 years ago, and since it had metric bolts and such, I've always bought metric tools. I remember what a hassle it was then, 'cause all my dad's tools were SAE, and I had to go buy my own sockets and wrenches; strange to have come full-circle now, and be at a loss for an SAE wrench.
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    That's true. Unfortunately we live in a Condo, so forget about doing oil changes, brake repairs, etc in the parking lot. One could get fined big time!.

    As for my Imp's maintenance needs I strictly relay on the dealership. I haven't had any problems with them up to this point and the good thing is that I am allowed to watch the tech do the work while the car gets serviced, so at least I have some reassurance that everyhting is taken care of properly, ask questions, etc.

    Besides, I have my free 3 year/45,000 mile Smartcare maintenance contract which covers all my oil changes as well as tire rotations so that's yet another incentive to keep using dealer service.

    Other than that, I always check the fluids, oil level/condition, tire air pressure, etc on a weekly basis or whenever I happen to stop for gas.

    Tomorrow I am getting the wiper blade refills replaced as they are approaching 1 year old and are not cleaning the windshield as well.

    Dealer service on a new car still under bumper-to-bumper warranty offers many advantages, namely, leverage for warranty claims should a major component brake or fail. On most cases, the dealership/manufacturer always checks to see if the owner at the very least has had oil changes performed at the dealer. These dealer service records have a two fold purpose:

    1) To demonstrate that the car has been taken care of properly by the owner.

    2) To demonstrate that the only ones that have stuck their hands in the car are the dealer mechanics, no one else.

    Based on past experiences, I have been able to solve post-warranty claims on my Hondas by just taking the car religiously to oil changes at the dealership. When my then 4 year old 1989 Honda Accord A/C compressor failed the first time (Yep it did fail twice in 7 years), Honda paid 100% parts and labor and the car was not even under warranty anymore and I didn't have an extended warranty contract on it either.

    I personally admire those of you (And envy to a point) that have a garage, own tools and the time to poke around your cars. But when it comes to a new car still under warranty, I shift that bulk of responsability to the dealer. If something goes wrong, the dealer becomes liable for repairs performed or lack of thereof.

    An oil change for a GM 3800 V6 sedan is what $15? $20? more or less? That won't brake anyone bank's account. Why get so skimpy with a $20K+ auto?

    Another plus of my dealer (Goodwrench Plus facility) is that if they don't perform the oil change under 30 minutes, then it is free. So far the longest they have taken is 27 minutes!
  • You need to engage the "tech" in small talk. Football. Spring break co-eds. Whatever. Maybe he'll take more than 30 minutes!
    A free oil change is a free oil change.
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    Good tip. I'll keep that in mind when my Smartcare coverage runs out.
  • roderacerroderacer Member Posts: 311
    ... 16 year olds or anyone else of any age for that matter. I agree that the skill level is the most important thing. Not too many 16 year olds I know have the time nor money to become ASE certified. Some time consuming institution called high-school, I think.

    Anyway, being a new car owner, not to mention homeowner - I know about getting the most out of my money. When I had my '93 Tbird, I always went to a local shop. They knew their stuff and I had a great relationship with the business. When it comes down to it, I'd take the 'ol LS to them... after the warranty expires, of course.

    Teo hit it on the head - the car company wants to know that the vehicles have been properly maintained. Their definiton of properly may not include the Lube-n-go down the street. What better way to show them that the 1 month out of warranty car has been mainained by an "authorized" facility, than to pull the records from the dealer DB? I think if it came to that, the car company would be a little more flexible with performing that repair out of warranty rather than me saying, "oh sure - I have been doing all that maintenace as the manual dictates". Even if that was the case - they don't know.

    Guess I am being cautious with my investment is all.

    If taking it to the dealer for service exclusively keeps the Impala in the best condition as possible, keeps me from worrying about BIG $$$ down the road for a major repair, and gets me some loyalty points from GM, well, I will take it.

    Could I get that service from mom and pop shops? Probably. Would I feel the same. Nope. I don't mind paying a little more for piece of mind.

    Like I said - rose colored glasses. I give the dealership techs more credit than a local guy. Not necessarily because they are better, but because they have the GM backing them.

    garypen - $1000-1200 for rotors and pads? You sure they weren't quoting for Brmbo calipers too?! ;)

    Happy motoring, all!

    Steve
  • moff3206moff3206 Member Posts: 13
    Just too the car in to the dealership to have the rotors turned, and as it turns out both need to be replaced and I was down to 20% on all 4 pads. New rotors (the dealer bought one and I bought one) and full break service = $553.00. Peace of mind = priceless.
    The f'ed up thing is that 3 weeks ago took it to the Big O to have the tires rotated and they told me 50% on the pads. The Chevy dealer let me look at them on the car, to prove they are not full of crap.
    Also they took care of the steering shaft at no charge to me, I should of had to pay a $100 deductible.
    And could someone help me with my Blazer?????
  • night_owl1night_owl1 Member Posts: 760
    Hey man, you are in the wrong discussion group. =)

    I did a quick search. The programmable door lock/unlock feature is optional. Are you sure you have it? You might want to call the Chevrolet customer service hotline or talk to your nearest dealer. You could ask to see the 2002 owners manual. You can also order an owners manual from Helm Inc. I think it's $35 for your car. www.hemlinc.com
  • >>>$1000-1200 for rotors and pads? You sure they weren't quoting for Brmbo calipers too?! ;)<<<

    I don't even know what brand they were going to use. Probably OE.
    I could swear I saw little dollar signs in their eyes where their irises were supposed to be, accompanied by a "cha-ching" sound, when I drove up with the Jaguar.
    Brakes are generally pretty easy to do oneself, anyway.
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    So does the Jaguar comes with a "Lucas Electrical System" standard?

    Have the Brits organized the fuses in a centralized location or they are still spread around the car, even below the seats?
  • roderacerroderacer Member Posts: 311
    Vultures.

    Kinda funny how you mention brakes being simple. I think I have had only one decent brake job performed on a car of mine. The rest always were accompanied by annoyances like grinding, fading, and even a mechanic that forgot shims.

    I can see why I am jaded.

    RR
  • A lot of it is labelled Lucas. I don't believe they actually make most of it, beyond the labels. Luckily, by that time they had changed suppliers, thanks to Ford. Mid-90's Jags are usually regarded as the best. They still maintained there original and unique styling, but had vastly improved reliability and quality due to Ford's manufacturing and design techniques. (Obviously, European Ford does things a little differently than US Ford.)

    The fuses AND relays are located all over the place! None under the seat, as far as I know. There are a couple of fuseboxes under the hood, one on each side of the dash, and possibly one or two in the trunk. I know there are relays in the trunk. I believe there are inline fuses in various locations, such as under the wooden "ski slope" of the console. Perhaps there are inlines under the seats!

    There's something to be said about having the relays close to the item it's controlling. Less distance, hence less resistance and thus more current to the device.

    Oh yeah...Impala.
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    Yeah the Impala has 2 banks of fuses on each end of the dasboard. I guess they wanted it to make it British!
  • wyoimpwyoimp Member Posts: 87
    Car Reviews - I agree that most reviews are biased against domestic vehicles. I'm 6'1" and have no problem sitting the back seat for extended periods of time. As for the "plastic" appearance of the interior, my previous car is a '91 Grand Voyager, this interior is great! Poor Handling? I took my LS on a nice long drive up into the Colorado Rockies (wet and dry weather) Interstate and two lane, and had a blast driving this car. I could easily exceed the posted limit for curves (no tire squeal either) and never felt the car was going to fail. My wife took the car to the Grand Canyon with her Mom and had no problems either. As for winter driving, sucker acts like 4WD.
    It might not be a Benz or a Taurus, but it isn't a Metro either.
    After the Consumer Reports SUV fiasco, I read Car reviews with a large grain of salt (maybe 2).
    Dealer Maintenance - Good Service departments are to find. If you find you like and trust, use him. Once a car gets long in tooth, independents and yourself is the way to go. Just be smart enough to know your limits and the limits of the garages you frequent.
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    It depends on dealership.

    With my 2000 Buick, I changed oil twice at the dealership where I bought it. Close to my home. Free for life. But takes sooo looong: about 2 hours for a simple oil change. Even while I was the first customer when they opened the shop in the morning. And had to wait about a week for the oil change appointments.

    Passable for retired persons, maybe...

    Had to check after them. The last time they put a wrong filter, and overfilled oil. Additionally, I feel bad at the dealership. Cannot forget how they threated me.

    The other two times changed oil at Firestone, together with tire rotations. Very good shop. Close from my home. Open 6 days a week 8am to 7pm, 8am to 2pm on Sunday. No appointment needed, and they are doing small jobs fairly fast.

    Put 15.5k miles. Time for 15k mile service. I am waiting only when my Malibu' transmission will be replaced. Cannot without the both cars.

    Going to do the Buick service at my Chevrolet dealership. They are the best. Unfortunately, not so close: 11 miles of dense suburban traffic, or about twice more by highways. 25 minutes or so one way. Only with appointment, and they are closed in the evenings and week-ends. Not sure about Saturday morning.
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    "With my 2000 Buick, I changed oil twice at the dealership where I bought it. Free for life, but takes sooo looong. About 2 hours for oil change. Even if I was first customer when they open the morning. Plus a week long wait for appointment."

    Wow! are GM dealers that scarce in your area?? Or are they overbooked with work??? It sounds more like a VW dealership!

    My dealer is great. For oil changes I don't need to setup an appointment, I just show up, they write the ticket, have someone drive the car to the service bay area and 30 minutes later I am out of there!

    I even get faster service when I go early on a weekday morning. Dealer is only 7 miles away from home.

    Ironically, I have yet another Chevy dealer around the corner from my office. I can walk over there in 5 minutes. But I hate that dealer. Always crowded, bad customer service, terrible sales staff, old facilities. I despise the place completely. I prefer to drive a few more miles down for excellent service.
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    GM dealers? What is it? :-)

    We planned to buy an Impala at first. After test drives, I was sold on the extra 40 hp and 50 lb-ft, and my wife too.

    I would like to buy the Regal from my Chevrolet dealer. I like the place, like the people who works there and how they threat us, like the service. I asked; it was impossible.

    The same with warranty work. GM says: only at Buick dealerships. You bought a new Buick, and have to endure the Buick service. No hope of upgrading to Chevrolet service, at least for warranty.
  • teoteo Member Posts: 2,508
    "No hope of upgrading to Chevrolet service, at least for warranty."

    My understanding is that your new car warranty is honored at any GM dealership whether it might be Cadillac, Buick, Pontiac, Chevy or GMC.

    Your Regal GS is essentially the same car as our Impala LS, with the exception of the Supercharged engine. I don't see why a Chevy dealer could not work on a Buick Regal. In fact in my dealer I see Buicks, Pontiacs and Oldsmobiles getting serviced as well. The dealer is a standalone Chevy operation.

    If the dealer tells you that your Regal can't be serviced for warranty repairs at a Chevy dealer is pure B.S.

    Glad that you like your Regal GS. Very powerful and nice riding car.
  • Jiffy Lube. No appt. In. Out. Badabing.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I change my own oil, rotate my own tires, replace the occasional starter and battery and such. I work full time. I have a wife. I have two daughters. I have a house full of florals, Barbies, and 3 TV's that are either tuned to Lifetime, Nickelodeon, or the Weather Channel. The only space I have that is MINE is the garage - anytime I can find an excuse to spend a Sunday afternoon, I jump at the chance!!
  • roderacerroderacer Member Posts: 311
    ...ever think of taking up fishing? If you did, you may be more apt to take the Impala to the dealer. :)

    Steve
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