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Comments
John
I have an appointment for tomorrow to get the other wheel done, so I'll be able to be more certain if this fixes it.
I will also have the dealer check my coolant sensor and the reservoir lip.
Thanks to sttropez, discgolfer, garypen, nathan the nightowl and bowtiefan. This is a great forum which is why I have stuck with it for over 2 years.
I look at the 1996 Impalas that are essentially longer, lower, wider RWD versions of our cars.
I think they were better looking but the fact is they didn't sell very well. The Impalas and Caprices were dropped.
I wasn't in need of a new car then so I didn't even look at them at the time. Now I look back on the RWD 1996 Impalas, Roadmonsters and even Fleetwoods and wish I had one but I also think that might have been the end of an era - at least for now.
If this country doesn't become more energy independent, gas prices aren't going to get any lower and that makes the big cars that much less attractive - even though I love them.
Do you folks realize that the US sells much of its current North Slope Alskan oil to foreign countries ? The whole purpose of that venture and the 800 mile pipeline to Prudhoe Bay was less dependence on foreign oil after the first Arab oil embargo in the early 1970s. Back then, lines at the pumps in the US were unbelievable and gasoline was in short supply.
Does anybody know why ethanol is not being used more? It's a constantly renewable source of gasoline made principally from corn that can be grown in abundance. I have some theories but would like to hear yours.
They've already proven that engines can be made that are both high-performance AND fuel efficient. I think consumers should demand it.
The Impala is a decent example of that. 20/30 from a 200HP V6! I'm sure we'll see 30/40 with 200HP in the near future.
I had a problem where the service vehicle soon indicator came on when I put the external light switch to the parking light position. The dealer replaced the BCM and when I went to unlock the car I noticed that the remote unlock feature did not work.The service rep said the fob had to be reprogrammed. Before doing this I went into the settings on the radio and all the options for remote operation were gone . That is remote visual verification ( light flash), remote audible verification ( horn), the horn chirp timer option and fob transmitter programming. He took the vehicle into the shop and when he came back the remote worked and all the settings were back on the radio. He said programming the fob put the settings back . Is that how it works or did they forget to program the BCM for Remote Keyless Entry ?
I also had the trunk struts replaced (they say both were, I say it looks like only one was). When I picked up the car the car last June the trunk would pop open a good 6 to 8 inches. Still now, even with the replaced struts it only pops an inch or so.
I got the same old answer about the DIC .. I'm expecting it to be accurate and that was not GM's intention.. It's only meant to be a guide to the fuel consumption.
Finally, if you think your premium sound system and the new amp has too much bass response when using the presets, they can recalibrate the radio.
There are two settings that can be selected with the TECH2 New cal and Factory. The original factory setting has lots of bass (could be said to be too much by some) and volume while the new cal really cuts the bass and volume down. I listened to both and stuck with the original factory bass setting.
The car is great, but I hate taking it to the dealer.I know they have to make money and are on an in/out schedule, but why must I have to make two trips. One would think a tech servicing a full load LS would wonder why he could not use the remote transmitter to lock the doors when he was finished.
Guess I'll have to be extra vigilent now!!
I had a problem where the service vehicle soon indicator came on when I put the external light switch to the parking light position. The dealer replaced the BCM and when I went to unlock the car I noticed that the remote unlock feature did not work.The service rep said the fob had to be reprogrammed. Before doing this I went into the settings on the radio and all the options for remote operation were gone . That is remote visual verification ( light flash), remote audible verification ( horn), the horn chirp timer option and fob transmitter programming. He took the vehicle into the shop and when he came back the remote worked and all the settings were back on the radio. He said programming the fob put the settings back . Is that how it works or did they forget to program the BCM for Remote Keyless Entry ?
I also had the trunk struts replaced (they say both were, I say it looks like only one was). When I picked up the car the car last June the trunk would pop open a good 6 to 8 inches. Still now, even with the replaced struts it only pops an inch or so.
I got the same old answer about the DIC .. I'm expecting it to be accurate and that was not GM's intention.. It's only meant to be a guide to the fuel consumption.
Finally, if you think your premium sound system and the new amp has too much bass response when using the presets, they can recalibrate the radio.
There are two settings that can be selected with the TECH2 New cal and Factory. The original factory setting has lots of bass (could be said to be too much by some) and volume while the new cal really cuts the bass and volume down. I listened to both and stuck with the original factory bass setting.
The car is great, but I hate taking it to the dealer.I know they have to make money and are on an in/out schedule, but why must I have to make two trips. One would think a tech servicing a full load LS would wonder why he could not use the remote transmitter to lock the doors when he was finished.
http://detnews.com/2002/autosinsider/0204/11/b04-462248.htm
Now you have to give it a real power lift from about 1" to get it all the way open. At first I thought it was the cold winter weather, but it is starting to get warmer 68 to-day and it is still the same.
I have seen many cars with trunklid struts which exhibit the same behavior. You could tweak the mechanism a bit but don't expect drastic results.
Cars where the trunlid pops up really high after the remote latch has been released are usually equipped with gooseneck type of hinges. Gooseneck trunklid hinges tend to intrude in tall/bulky trunk cargo by crushing the object when closing the lid.
This is the reason why many manufacturers have switched to trunklid struts. They also hold the trunk lid open more safely and allow the opening angle of the lid to be greater. There is also a benefit of fitting bulky cargo in the trunk and not worrying about the gooseneck hinges to crush the object, preventing the lid from closing properly.
The Honda Accord offered trunk struts for a while but they went back to gooseneck hinges amid complaints from customers used to the high pop up behavior of the lid.
It seems you can't have your cake and eat it too when it comes to this. No gooseneck hinges = ability to stuff bulky objects but limited pop action opening range from trunklid. Trunk struts = trunklid pops open really high, but limits ability to put bulky objects.
Now you have to give it a real power lift from about 1" to get it all the way open. At first I thought it was the cold winter weather, but it is starting to get warmer 68 to-day and it is still the same.
posted of the Impala with the center of the trunk painted only. can someone tell me were i can find that pic? Thanks Walter
When I was looking for a new car, I wanted an Impala, thinking it would still be like the '96 models. Big, black, and loaded with tire smoking, neck snapping, V-8 RWD power! When I found out it was some FWD, V-6 200 HP wimp, I was disgusted. I went looking for a '96, but all the ones I found were wasted, or the asking price was too high. New RWD cars are rare and I was actually considering a Tarus or Crown Vic when I got a "Test drive a Chevy and get $40" card in the mail. Dragged my wife down to Chevy and took the Impala for a spin. What started to change my mind about FWD cars was when I scared the sales person (but not my wife who is used to my Mario driving style) and dropped the hammer and hit a speed bump at 40+ mph. The car pulled strongly all the way though, no noticable torque steer, and didn't bottom out when I hit the bump. I was happy with the braking power also (so were my passengers as we were quickly running out of parking lot room).
It took a couple more months for me to actually consider purchasing an Impala. Waiting for the '01 models, fighting with the sales people, and trying to get over the cheapy, plastic tail light treatment. Actually, I still don't like it, but I only have to see it when I take stuff out of the trunk or when I wash it.
I don't think we will ever see the V-8 RWD cars return to the popularity they once had. Today's new drivers have been raised on mini-vans and FWD compacts. Shows like Crank and Chrome and publications like Hot Rod Magazine are doing more and more stories on "import" sport cars (still cracks me up that a Ford Focus is classified as an Import car).
Would I abandon my current Impala for one of the the new V-8 RWD version that people have been speculating about? If you had asked me right after I purchased my car, I would have said YES! Now, I don't know. I like the look of my car, it is well laid out, the gas mileage is good, and I can still pull away from most of the imports on the road (still haven't outgrown my lead foot).
http://www.impalahq.com/
From the info I have gathered, the rear taillight treatment on the Sport package is a plastic cover that is applied over the existing tail lights and held in place with double stick tape. I have part number for all three pieces (right, left tail lights and center reverse light section) but have been told that the number for the center section is invalid and the other items do not have a price yet. I also don't know if they are pre-painted (like the roof trim strips) or not. If you are intested, I can post the part numbers I do have.
It'll be back. Hopefully, it'll be worthy of the name the next time around.
And watch out about the "worthy of the name" crack. I still get e-mail flames about how the new Impala dishonors the Impala nameplate.
I guess the styling didn't do it for a lot of people.
Everytime i sit in a fourth gen, i am amazed at how a large car can have so little interior room.
It deserved to be killed. Hopefully GM will learn from it's mistakes.
I got my 2000 LS worked on today, The Culprit was (2) "WORN" Rear Cradle Mounts causing excessive movement and the clanking I was hearing,How they get "WORN" so fast is a mystery? But they do have 26k on them and the Cradle and ISS have 8k... I drove it home but no farther and It seems to have helped, but the front end (in my case anyway), I am convinced will never have that tight as a drum feeling that my 2001 has..and I hope "KEEPS"....Don
LRCobra
LRCobra
I remember my street in the 60's and 70's had an Impala parked about every third car. Every one of these late model bombers had complete rust through around each fender/wheel well, and "chrome" grills the consistency of aluminum foil, all bent up and pushed in. The interiors had chintzy and cheap materials and fittings, as well. (Not much has changed in that department, though.)
The current Impala is definitely a better car than those 60/70's models. The 94-96 might be a different story, though.
Seems like no matter what weather my car is in(rain, snow, summer) the temperature guage always hovers right in the middle..never higher..although the engine fan does come on. Sometimes the temperature guage needle is a notch lower on the indicator.
Is this normal?? Or should the temperaute guage needle be a few notches lower most of the time??
The book CLAIMS it isn't hot unless it goes into the RED, but if mine goes much above midway, I will commence worrying! A change like that after 80,000 miles of experience would lead me to believe something had changed, something NOT good!
take care,
steve
A few more questions for you very well informed folks on this message board:
1) Does anyone have any advice on how to maintain the leather interior? Which brand of leather protectant/cleaner is a good to use?
2) Does anyone know what procedures are required to maintain the sunroof? Do i have to regrease it or anything? I havent done any maintenance on it since I bought my '00 LS.
3) Anyone know what the following TSBs are about? I came across them on Nathan's website but don't know the details..
01-08-64-008 New Style Water Deflector; 2000-2001 Chevrolet Impala
99-01-38-005 A/C not cold. Refill with refrigerant.
Thanks again everyone!!
on the Water Deflector, I believe this is a change for the 2001's from the 2000's and it amounts to a plastic type liner that goes on the the doors before the inner door panels are put in place, like older cars used to have just a sheet of plastic wrap over the metal before the door panel to prevent water from going inside the door, this is in regards to a form fitting plastic "Water Deflector" inside the 2001 and up door panels (I think it actually looks like a door panel that fits under the "door panel" if that makes sense?)that the early 2000's must have the plastic sheet or something else that was deemed inferior for them to update it... Thanks Don
The sound isn't coming from the serpentine belt area but to the right of it. I can't figure out what's causing it. You can't hear it unless you drive with the windows down. It's not a major problem so I won't take it to the dealer quite yet.
Do any of you people have similar sounding engines? Any ideas?
The T-bird is a start.
On another note (which I've seen no one comment on), is anyone else annoyed by the "HONK HONK" sound every time you log onto Edmunds? I used to check the board once or twice a day at work (while on hold, of course); but now can't check it without either muting the sound, or waiting until after 5pm (like today).
I guess maybe the sound is cute to some folks, but it is literally causing me to not visit the site as often.
1) If you were interested in the Indiglo gauge pre-order drive for the Impala, I posted a link to a page that describes the kit and how to install one.
2) New pre-order drive for A-pillar gauge pods.
3) I posted part numbers for the LS Sport taillight covers. It's in the How-To section
http://www.impalahq.com
Since I'm clueless how to do HTML... here's the link
I checked out ImpalaHQ, but the underside of my dash doesn't look like it at all. If anyone could help me, I'd be grateful. For a picture of the underside of my dash, and where I *THINK* I'm looking at it, check:
mail.trekmush.org/Wedge/DSC00216-1.JPG
I -think- it's the black taped thing on the left?
My other question is, how do you remove the fuse box cover(s)? They don't seem to slide back or up or anything.
Thanks for helping a clueless newbie!