2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala

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Comments

  • 00impala00impala Member Posts: 474
    I know your frustration,it took me a while, but it is simple, here goes
    Go out to your Impala, Raise the hood, twist the oil cap at the Neck where it goes into the valvecover to remove it and the cap, then remove the Grey Plastic "3.8 Series II" engine cover, then look at the very end (Left side facing engine) of the upper manifold, just in front of the altenator, you will see a grey clip holding a few wires going to a sensor housing that reads on the top (on a sticker) "16249939..SENSOR PRESSURE..9V OUT GND" undo the grey clip and pull out the plug "or you can leave it plugged in" I unplug it,(since you have to twist the entire housing) then below were the plug goes you will see 2 small areas on the housing in order to get a grip on the housing, then just press down on the entire housing while turning the whole thing a 1/4 turn "COUNTERCLOCKWISE" and it will pop up since there is a small spring under it,lift it up and VOILA' you have access to the PCV VALVE, you can then pull up on the PCV Valve and it comes right out, this is really simple and I cannot believe that the instructions to get to it are not published ANYWHERE!! Hope this helps.. Thanks Don
  • kimpala1962kimpala1962 Member Posts: 45
    Hi Where are all the NJ Impala Owners hiding i thought we all can meet somewhere centrally with our cars..... Probably on the GSP ... Walter
  • Actually, none of the Impalas in my area were convertibles, IIRC. Ragtops weren't a hot item in Brooklyn, for some reason. Cold weather and rampant car theft come to mind.
    I'm nostalgic for the pictures I've seen, though. I'm not nostalgic for all those rusted out wheel arches. ;-)
    I've been in CA for 4 years now. And, I finally got my first convertible a few months ago. I had to have the moonroof on the Impala, as well. It was a must.
  • norbnancynorbnancy Member Posts: 118
    Thanks loads. Who would have thunk!!! For a maintenance item, the engineers really hid it. Chevrolet is remiss in not even including the PCV $ gas filter in the owner's manual. The housing hiding the PCV on my LS was so tight I broke the plastic clip that holds the pressure sensor. Had to use a flat blade screw driver to rotate the housing even after pressing down hard. No permanant damage, reglued the clip even though it doesn't seem to hold anything in place tightly. You are a life saver. Thanks again Don. Hope I can help you of someone in the future. N orb.
  • 00impala00impala Member Posts: 474
    thing while pressing down and turning it counter-clockwise, mine was very tight at first also and I almost cut my finger to the bone on the plastic areas that stick out at the bottom on the rough edges, matter of fact I did slice my finger on the darn thing. (Now I just press down on the whole thing and support it with my other hand while turning and it works great) also thanks to Matt McDill who informed me... just passing along the info to those who need it....Don
  • night_owl1night_owl1 Member Posts: 760
    I think the dealer showed you the 3.4L engine. The location you describe is exactly where the PCV is on that engine.
  • night_owl1night_owl1 Member Posts: 760
    I didn't have a problem removing the one on my car. I do have a difficult time removing the radiator cap though. It's like I can't press the cap down hard enough to clear the clips. Anyone else have a similar problem?
  • night_owl1night_owl1 Member Posts: 760
    I can't really tell by your photo, everything looks black. =) I looked at the aux power drop how-to article, and I thought there were more photos than that, but I must have deleted them when I did an update. I'll try and re-do it tonight. I'm pretty sure I had a photo of it. Anyway, if this is under the plastic door that is under your glove box, I would guess you found it. Try and unwrap the tape and compare the colors of the wires going into the connector to the list on my site and see if they match.

    The fuse box covers in the passenger compartment are held in with push in type fasteners. Stick your finger in the hole and pull. It kinda angles out when you pop it off. It's a little difficult to visualize, but pretend there is a hinge in the back, closest to the engine compartment, and pull it out like you were opening the car door.
  • night_owl1night_owl1 Member Posts: 760
    Do you have the police version or a base Impala?
  • norbnancynorbnancy Member Posts: 118
    The radiator cap on my 2000LS is also hard to loosen. I have to press down hard & turn. My hands have to be dry and have no oil on them as my grip will not be good enough to loosen the cap. To McDill--- thanks for contributing the info on the location of the PCV valve. The technition at the Chev dealer never replaced one so he didn't know where it was. The dealer parts man printed the wrong image showing the 3.4 pcv location. Next week when I go to to the dealer I'll give them the info so maybe they can start taking better care of their customers cars. I can't believe they are not selling this needed service. I cleaned the leather & vynal on the LS as well as my 1993 Fleetwood Brougham today. I used Turtle Wax Emerald cleaner & conditioner. I am satisfied with the results. The first cl;eaning in 2 years / 28000 miles. Enjoy the ride.
  • rstephrsteph Member Posts: 109
    Haven't been keeping up on the forum for several months..back now. My 2000 LS now has 31,000 miles on it. To date (not counting the body damage that was fixed after a hit & run driver ran into it)I've had the following "fixes" done, all under warranty: Brake rotors turned twice. Steering column replaced after the "clunking" started. (Chev's bulletin on this said to just shoot it full of grease but my local dealer elected to replace the whole column). CD player just died. Dealer I bought the car from put in a new stereo, but "forgot" (said they didn't know this) that it had to be calibrated to the car. So, they put a 2nd one in 2 days later and did it right that time. Otherwise, all is well. Kind of a side note (I'm a cop), I just got my new 2002 Impala Police car. Interesting that the standard AM-FM-Cassette stereo in that car is 10 times the stereo than what's in my 2000 LS (with the supposed upgraded sound system). Anyone know where I can get the fitted/moulded mud guards from an after market supplier. I'm not too keen on paying the $28+ the dealer wants for them (and they're telling me they don't make them anymore anyway.)???
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Member Posts: 2,287
    This morning when I logged onto this board, for the first time in days, I did not cringe and nearly spill my oatmeal. No annoying HONK HONK. Hallelujah. I sure hope it was omitted forever. If it is supposed to still honk, count this as my vote that it be stopped. If not, THANKS!

    Oh, by the way, IMPALA.
  • emtbemtb Member Posts: 42
    It's a 2002 base, civilian version.

    I went to the local dealer to look for the male side of the aux power receptacle (finally found it, burried under a -lot- of tape. Lot more then the books indicate :), and the guy at the parts desk as clueless as to what I was after. Anyone know the part # for the -male- side of the receptacle?
  • davidg9davidg9 Member Posts: 2
    Message #57 refers to synthetic oil and the car's oil change indicator. The indicator is triggered based on total revs, temperature and other conditions, not on the type of oil. I does not "analyze" your oil.
  • night_owl1night_owl1 Member Posts: 760
    go to http://www.impalahq.com/ then go to the Accessories area, scroll down to Exterior and look for a company called PowerFlow. They sell both front and rear molded splash guards and they say they have a set for the Impala. I don't know the cost, though.
  • night_owl1night_owl1 Member Posts: 760
    I have been trying to locate that connector for a while now. I don't think the dealer carries it. Or at least they don't know if they carry it. =)
  • davidg9davidg9 Member Posts: 2
    re: the 2000 Impala suspension, Chev. made a mistake.
    There are 2 suspension set-ups -- soft on the "base" and firm on the "LS".
    The "base" is TOO SOFT and tends to float & the "LS" firmer but somewhat "bouncy".
    The reason is that the BASE has soft springs and struts, & the LS has firmer springs BUT THE SAME STRUTS which were marginal with the soft springs.

    I solved the problem. I have a BASE model and got tired of being seasick. I replaced the stock struts with KYB struts. The ride is still very good, but controlled & there is NO floating, bounce or sway --- VERY NICE.
    The part #s are: Front - 334227
    Rear - 334228

    Good luck.
  • night_owl1night_owl1 Member Posts: 760
    How much are they?
  • jpatsujpatsu Member Posts: 4
    According to summit racing, each strut costs 59.95. What does it take to install these?
  • hvan3hvan3 Member Posts: 630
    Nathan:
    I called SLP Performance. They said the cold air induction does NOT fit on the 2000 Impala. According to your website, it stated that it does. I just wanted to clarify.

    Thanks
  • 00impala00impala Member Posts: 474
    I used to have a 1989 "W" Bodied Pontiac Grand Prix, I remeber that the front struts could be changed, well the "Strut Cartridges" could be changed without removing the entire Strut from the car and messing with alignment etc..,The Tube Cartridge could be removed verticly out of the strut and replaced with new ones,,, is the Impala different, meaning you have to replace the entire Strut Housing and all? I know you cannot do that in the back, but the front is my question. Thanks Don
  • night_owl1night_owl1 Member Posts: 760
    I'll clarify the website. SLP says it will not fit, but it does fit in a Monte Carlo and both cars are similar under the hood. Someone has ordered one and is going to try it in their Impala and get back to me.
  • KYB shocks and struts are generally very firm. They are probably the perfect choice for someone looking to firm up their ride on almost any car. They're quite inexpensive, as well, for an added bonus.
  • rstephrsteph Member Posts: 109
    Thanks night_owl1...found them.
  • night_owl1night_owl1 Member Posts: 760
    Teo sent me an e-mail asking me to let everyone know that he won't be posting here anymore. He will be lurking, but doing his posting on the Yahoo boards.
  • night_owl1night_owl1 Member Posts: 760
    If you do end up ordering them, let us know how they work out for you.
  • night_owl1night_owl1 Member Posts: 760
    Can you e-mail me pls? I have some info to pass on to you.
  • He didn't care for the "beep beep" either, eh?
  • b4zb4z Member Posts: 3,372
    What is the beep beep and honk honk you guys are talking about? Was it a deleted post?
  • If you have a sound card, you should have been hearing a "beep beep" or "honk honk" if you prefer, when you visited the TH home page lately.
    It's possible that it only worked with IE, as opposed to Netscape. I don't know. Obviously, you're audio needs to be unmuted, with the volume turned up, as well.
    It doesn't seem to be doing it today, thank God. Maybe they got wise, and put the kabosh on it.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    It's telling you that you have new messages to read.

    It's up to you whether you want to hear it or not. Go to Message Center - at the bottom of the page there is a setting that says "Beep when the new-message list changes" - if you check that, you should hear a honk-honk when you have new messages. If you uncheck it, you won't hear anything. I think that it happens when you first log in, and then again IF you are on your Message Center page and a new message is found as the page refreshes itself.

    Your choice. Whatever browser you are using should not matter.

    Pat
    Sedans Host
  • b4zb4z Member Posts: 3,372
    Thanks for the info. I always keep the sound turned down because those noises bother me.
    Anybody know of a quiet fan for the CPU? I hate that fan noise.
    My computer is always off when not in use.
  • b4zb4z Member Posts: 3,372
    Not to beat a dead horse, but i hate those things.
    As time goes by it will turn gray, and every time i wax the car i have to tape over it.

    I went to the bank today and parked my car next to a handicap space. The whole space was painted a blue color.
    I walked over to the ATM and waited for someone to finish. As a waited I glanced over at my car,which had just been washed and was looking pretty incredible with the afternoon sun on its flanks.

    The sun was so bright that it was putting a brilliant reflection of the blue painted asphalt on the on the side of the car.
    I noticed that this reflection had completely obliterated any trace of the black side mouldings.
    The car looked almost monochromatic and was a sight to see. Very aggressive and sporty looking.
    It car had a very integrated look in one color. It looked more expensive too.
    Bob Lutz, you got rid of the black plastic on the avalanche. Please do it on the impala.
    Make mine body color.
  • hvan3hvan3 Member Posts: 630
    I hear you. The LS should include the "appearance package" where you get 16" aluminum wheels and matching body color side moldings. The base model gets the standard black side moldings.

    If you look at the Honda Accord EX, matching color molding come in standard, while the LX get black moldings. When I see the Accord from the side view, I immediately know if it's LX or EX model. But on our LS, the lower portion of the moldings are matching body color. Why is that? Why not include matching body color on ALL moldings? I think the black moldings are hideous.
  • mediumfrymediumfry Member Posts: 239
    I think the black moldings look OK when new, but they are nearly impossible to keep looking new. That's my beef.

    Ya know, the moldings are only glued on. Had anyone removed them? It's probably painted behind the molding and might look OK with them removed.
  • 00impala00impala Member Posts: 474
    They will only "Go the opposite"...With all of the "Cost Cutting" going on for the 2003 Models and Lutz chipping away at little things "That will not be missed" Like Trunk and Glovebox lights..ABS etc..I'm sure Paint will be in the mix...Next thing you know, Impala's will have "No Paint" on the Bumpers...ala' Dodge Neon and the Base model Cavalier a few years ago, the Base Version of the 1992/93 Ford Taurus was like that too,,, Just molded in colors (Mostly that beautiful ever fading Grey) of your favorite "Moulding" material, but the "WHOLE" Bumper...Should save GM some change...Careful what you wish for... you know how that goes.... Don
  • On the bright side, they couldn't cut anymore costs on the interior materials. Unless they decided to offer bare foam seats, or no dash at all.
  • night_owl1night_owl1 Member Posts: 760
    No floor mats, eliminate the rubber inserts in the storage compartment, make the interior all out of the same material (no wood trim accents, cloth panels in doors) etc.

    This type of cost cutting is a big step backward. The Impala is such a great deal because of all the features that were included. How often have we heard the complaint that Chevy should have included an under hood light?
  • hoowa1hoowa1 Member Posts: 4
    I was wondering if anyone here has any insight on the odds I can get GM to buy back my 2002 Impala.

    When I got it, it made squeaking noises when going down a certain bumpy road near my house -- it never squeaked anywhere else. I took it into the dealer to have it fixed and when I got it back, the squeaking noise was almost constant -- I heard it before it got off the lot and it even squeaks at idle. The noise is loud and unbelievably annoying! I've brought it in three more times and it hasn't improved.

    Other problems it has that they can't seem to fix are noises from the driver's seat, a passanger door that doesn't fit on correctly (sticks out about a centimeter), and a whirling engine noise that began after going over a bump.

    Thanks
  • norbnancynorbnancy Member Posts: 118
    Sorry you are having problems with your 2002 Impala. Buy backs are a long process and are not for certain. I would suggest you document each visit to your dealer, who you spoke to, etc. You should talk to the SERVICE MGR. and if that doesn't get results, talk to the dealership owner or general manager. They should furnish you transportation on any further attempts to repair. You should also call Chevrolet and register your complaint. 1 800 222 1020. If you feel your dealer is not capable to repair, you can always take it to another dealer. Each state has different rules on when a vehicle should be bought back by the manufacturer. Your owners manual spells out the process. Usually a trained technician with proper direction can fix almost anything, it just a matter of getting some ones attention. I don't think anyone comes out ahead in a buy back, unless the car just can't be fixed. That is rare. Hope you are able to get a good repair so you can enjoy a normally great car. Enjoy the ride
  • mediumfrymediumfry Member Posts: 239
    Dang. A door that doesn't fit? Squeaks and rattles? Engine noises?

    Something is definitely horribly wrong. Most people rave about fit & finish, solid feel and sound, and fairly quiet, smooth power.

    You definitely have three major issues. As Norb says, document everything, get as much as you can from local service and go to GM customer care from there. Every manufacturer puts out a lemon here and there, and while there don't seem to be many lemon Impalas, you seem to have one.

    Very sorry to hear of your problems. Good luck.
  • tommy42tommy42 Member Posts: 70
    My center caps have a crack in the lt rear. The rt front was already replaced by the dealer. You can't fell it with your finger nail. It appears to be between the layers of material
  • macgyver24macgyver24 Member Posts: 36
    Can anybody give me an idea of how much the cabin air filter costs to replace?

    Thanks
  • norbnancynorbnancy Member Posts: 118
    In addition to what macgyver24 is asking---- is it difficult to do? Has anyone noticed cleaner air? I live in a remote clean air area surrounded by the great lakes so I don't think it gets dirty fast like in the big cities. I live on a gravel road but drive very very slow to not kick up dust since my 2000 LS is black, beautiful black. Enjoy the ride.
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    It sounds to me like you never got your faulty amp replaced. I was one of the first to have it replaced and the difference is night and day. I have information on my website on how to get it replaced for free and how to check if you have the "bad" amp. It is in the trunk near the speakers. go to my website for info http://www.luckyjdr.homestead.com/impala.html
  • hvan3hvan3 Member Posts: 630
    Let me get this straight. You want GM to buy back your car because it makes squeeks and rattles? GOOD LUCK!

    I thing that I love about my Impala LS is that it does NOT make squeeks and rattles. Unlike my previous Accord, and my friend's BMWs, it was squeek galores.
  • hvan3hvan3 Member Posts: 630
    As we drove into Mexicali, Mexico stateline, there were 5 black and white Mexican Federal Police Impalas sitting at the border. All other city police vehicles were Geo Metro. Go figure.
  • Yeah. But, they were 1972 Impalas.
  • norbnancynorbnancy Member Posts: 118
    Can you imagine a mass arrest using a Geo Metro? Five black & white Impala Fed police at the border? Maybee waiting for something big? Does Chevrolet assemble anything beside trucks in Mexico? My 2000 black LS turned 29000 miles and still "no" problems of any kind. By far the best car I have ever owned. It amazes me how some 15000 parts can be assembled in a short time and operate in harmony for so long a time in adverse conditions. Enjoy the ride.
  • b4zb4z Member Posts: 3,372
    Was that the 3 cylinder metro or the 4 cylinder Metro? Those 4 bangers are baaaaaad.
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