I just got my 2002 Double Cab 2 weeks ago and my lower back has not stopped hurting since. Has anyone else had any problems with the seats in these trucks? If so do you have any solutions? Any help greatly appreciated.
Hmm, my 2002 Xtracab is fine for me...I suppose you can try a little pillow (my complaint is that the seat is a little short, so my knees actually hang up in the air, makes it tough in long trips) or something. You could try replacing teh seats with something aftermarket. Check www.tacomaterritory.com, I heard something about replacing seats there.
I drive a DC and have noticed that the console box at your right elbow, is a little on the low side (for me at least) I found that I tended to lean to the right, and lean on the box, causing back pain. If I set upright, and forget the box, all is fine. I had this same problem on a car a few years back. Since I figured out that my back pain was actually a posture problem, I have not had any trouble.
I have a 2K (2000) Xtra Taco. We've tried having extra padding put in the lower back and bottom part of the seats, pillows, etc. and still are uncomfortable. I'd like to change seats, but have not found any practical aftermarket seats yet. If you do, let me know - the Taco is depreciating faster than I can pay it off, so I'm the wrong side of the note and can't afford to dump it at the moment. And while it gets good gas mileage, and goes down the road well, I really would like to get something that doesn't give me hip and back problems!
A lumbar support from a medical supply store is inexpensive and very helpful. They cost from around $15 on up. They work great. I started using one after developing lower back pain from prolonged flight operations in my last helo. You can mount them with velcro, or with ties. Get the ones made for a wheel chair, as they are more duro. I hope this helps.
Another thing you can do is start carrying your wallet in your front pocket. The wallet can cause an assymetric pelvic tilt that can exacerbate chronic back pain.
My DC with TRD gets about 14 mpg in town and 20 on highway. Is this typical? I have a Limited and find the seats with lumbar support to be very comfortable. I hate the TRD suspension--it's too damn stiff. Here's Toyota customer service to my query about changing TRD shocks to standard PreRunner shocks. "We are sorry to learn of your dissatisfaction with the ride in your 2001 Tacoma. Toyota does not recommend modifying its vehicles from their original factory specifications. Modifications could affect the vehicle's performance, safety or durability, and may violate government regulations. In addition, damage or performance problems resulting from the modification may not be covered under warranty. Because of this, we do not provide information on how to modify your vehicle." Not a lot of help are they?
Well, you should not have bought a TRD. Actually, I find the suspension to be just fine for myself. You could replace the bilsteins with something softer (don't get Tohikos, I thought that DCs came with them, not Bilsteins, or was that in 2002...), it shouldnt affect your truck in any other ways. Thats about all that there is in the TRD package suspension-wise.
Hair trigger clutch, 2nd. synchro 2-step. Anybody have a similar problem? 2000 Tacoma Ex. Cab, 2WD V6, California, 34,000 miles. 2nd. gear started to clunk at 1000miles, but never a problem from 3rd. to 2nd. All of the gears are what I call notchy, requiring some assertion to get them home. At 30,000, I changed the trans oil from OEM to Sta-Lube GL-5 Plus, 80w-90 hypoid and limited slip oil, hoping to resolve the clunking. That was a mistake, I think. Now the 1st. to 2nd. does the 2-step--tends to kick back, then goes in with a drive train ring, as in ringing a bell. No real grinding yet. The clutch has always been what the service writer says hooks up quick. The pedal distance between disengaged and engaged is very short, making it very difficult to launch smoothly without either stalling it, slipping the clutch excessively or burning out. In the last 3000 miles, it's begun to chatter, once so severly the body moved noticably. No trace of oil at the bottom of the bell housing. There has also been a rattle whose frequency increases with RPM off idle, and goes away when the throwout bearing comes in contact with the spring release fingers. Of course, all the dealer would say is that "it hooks up quick". Their wrenches couldn't hear the rattle, and only once did it slightly chatter on them. And of course, it shifts just fine. I told them I'd bring it back when the pressure plate bangs up against the bell housing. As for the shifting, I checked out Redline Synthetic Oil, www.redlineoil.com. A friend referred me to it, he uses it, and the second paragraph on there trans oil page explained that the oil I'm using is too slippery for the synchros. They go on to make a very good case for using their oil. Also check out www.c5-corvette.com/redline.htm, interesting dyno tests with Redline oils. So is there anybody else with a "hair trigger clutch" and the 2nd. gear synchro 2-step? Thanks for your response, Ron
I do notice my truck doesn't go into second as smooth as other gear transitions. It's almost as if second is below first, but a little to the right and it doesn't just drop into place super-smooth. When I go into second, I pull the shift lever down and just a little to the right, and it seems to help. Everybody other Tacoma I've driven does this as well. I've never found it to be a problem, in fact, I think the Tacoma's 5 speed tranny is one of the notchiest and smoothest out there. Try VW's 5 speed - total slop by comparison. Don't know what to say about the cluth. Mine starts to engage about 1/3 to 1/2 way up from being fully depressed.
ahardcastle:
Is your truck new? With some miles, the suspension will loosen up a little bit. Might want to wait it out before you start messing with your shock absorbers. Also, not keeping your tires inflated to the max pressure will make quite a difference. In addition, when you buy tires, avoid the triple ply off-roading tires, as they are very tough and offer no give. Of course, of you plan on any towing, I wouldn't change anything - the TRD's stiff suspension is ideal for towing.
I have both a Tacoma 5sp and a 1997 VR6 5 Sp and the VW is butter compared to our Tacoma. There isn't a lot of slop in the VW although it is a little rubbery compared to others. Our Tacoma doesn't shift badly overall. It is a little notchy 1 to 2 but not unbearable. The clutch engages quickly which does make for some rough launches though. Sometimes I have a hard time when taking a right hand turn from a stop in the wet to keep from spinning the inside tire. Maybe it's my lead foot.
the clutch in these 4x4 trucks take some getting used to. My dad is used to driving small sedans with manual tranny, and he always complains my truck's clutch is too stiff and that you have to push it in way too far. The Tacoma's clutch and the VWs are probably like two different animals.
The only thing I hate about my clutch is it squeaks often. Does yours do the same?
I don't notice any difference between the clutches on my 2 vehicles (squeeks or where it lets out) - they both let out about the same place, I think. On the other hand, I have noticed that 2nd gear is in very different places - I always have to think about it when I switch cars (or blow the shift). On the whole, I prefer the Wrangler, even with it's long throw, over the Tacoma. I did have some problems with shifting from 3rd to 4th for about a week. It seemed worse when I was going uphill and only on the upshift - not downshifting. The dealer couldn't replicate the problem, and it seemed to go away when I was ready to take it back to the dealer a week later.
I've never noticed the 1st.-to-2nd. shift not being directly in line, never a problem. What has been, is due to the enormous torque of the V6, I'm prone to, in slow traffic, to shift from 2nd. to 4th., waiting for the Rs to drop, of course. Since I don't do it often, I'm probably a Klutz at it, might be missing the compensation for the torque reaction with the engine/trans mounts, but I've often run up against a wall, have to hunt around to find the 4th. hole. I don't blame Toyota for that. The clutch [non-permissible content removed] is not about the pedal distance off the floor or how far down, it is about the pedal movement being so small between disengaged and hookup, as 759387 refers to as "rough launches". There is also a sharp deceleration, as in carburetted vehicles with bad accelerator pumps, or cold with no choke, unless I get the revs off idle just right, or work that hair trigger clutch real slow, which in the LA area traffic means everybody and his brother jumps in front of you. I used to think the injection circuit needed fixing, but I think all that is due now to that clutch hooking up too quick for the fuel system to compensate. IF I had another 1/16" of travel between disengaged and hookup, I think I'd be as happy as a pig in ..... I'll have to wait until the pressure plate and disk get changed to find out, I guess. Yeah, I can't make a left or a right in traffic without that right rear tire lighting off. I still have the stock tires on, sure hope going to p225-70/14s when these wear out will help. I have yet to get good and stuck in the snow, but I don't expect it to have the traction of that old Ford Courier I used to drive without a limited slip diff. Does anybody know of any of those aftermarket LS diffs that work worth the time and money? Thanks for the replies, it's good to know I'm not alone.
larger tires on ours, I think they're 265 the stock larger size. We break them free especially on the tight right hand turns into traffic when I go to accelerate hard, lead foot I guess.
I checked last night on the ride home and our shifter was smooth from 1-2 and 2-4 if you do that crossover. My father used to do that when I was a kid, used to bother the hell out of me. It was fine if he revved in 1st and 2nd but most of the time he just putted along in 1 and 2 and then flipped it into 4th and bogged....I used to fear for his exhuast system from the shaking. He still does it in his Maxima but I haven't had to drive with him for years. Thanks God.
Our clutch isn't bad now that I used it and thought about it. Our VW catches a little smoother and I wouldn't compare it to our BMW linkage because it is totally different.
Sorry.... was working and typing at the same time.
I have the same issue, Toyota people said it's driving style, and tells you to pound sand. I have gotten my EFI computer to reset, and it gone up to 20 MPG, but after that tank of gas it jumped back to 14 MPG. I am trying to find a different way to have my components replaced on my truck. calling Toyota Corporate does not work. and frustrating.
The Service manager said the "16-bit computer" will adjust to your driving habits, i gunned the engine every now and then to get away from Cell Phone drivers and Asian Women. The truck will not start if the computer has not gone thru all sensors. I think the computer was programed by Microsoft.
Can anyone comment on the quality of toyota's four cylinder 4x4 performance in everyday commute,dirt road, mud season, deep snow performance? Has anyone put studded snows on? any problems?
The truck is popular here in northern vermont...but I can't get a good opinion.
www.tacomaterritory.com You'll get a lot of opinions about the 4-banger, pretty much all of them favorable. I can't say anything, I have a real engine in my Taco.
It really depends on your terrain. If your terrain is flat as a board with no mountains or hills, the 4-banger would probably be fine. If it's not, might want to consider having that 6-banger for the hills and mountains.
As for fourwheeling: I think this is one area a 4 cylinder would be every bit as good as a six. When you're fourwheeling, the speeds are pretty low, and the 4 cylinder is pretty torquey. Besides, if you're doing nothing but spinning your tires 4-wheeling, you're doing something wrong! I had a Suzuki Samurai with one of the weakest 4 cylinders ever made, and that thing would go ANYWHERE!!!
BUT, I chose the 6 cylinder in my Taco because I do a lot of highway and city driving, and the six is smoother and much more capable on the highway, plus its power lets you "squirt" through congested, slower traffic more easily.
I have a 2 wheel drive 4 cylinder 2000 Taco with a manual tranny. It goes up and down hills very well, even at freeway speeds. I just downshift to 4th gear and can make 65-70 where many automatic cars can't, like up the I5 Grapevine (part of our daily commute). It has little pickup at the low end of 3rd gear going up a steep hill (there is a stop sign at the bottom of a hill on our way home) but once it gets going a bit, it's fine. Our daily commute goes from just under 6,000 feet to sea level, then back up, and covers 75, mostly freeway, miles one way. It gets an average of about 28 mpg. Don't know what the 4x4 would do for the gas mileage.
My only complaint with the 2K Taco is the uncomfortable seats. My commute is too long for them to be comfortable - the seats in the Wrangler are much better!
I think that the four cylinder is capable, especially under the conditions that you would encounter when you are using 4WD. However, the automatic transmission shouldn't be paired up with the four cylinder engine in most circumstances. Poor engine braking is one of my principal complaints regarding the Toyota automatic transmission. For that reason, I wouldn't recommend the auto tranny for 4WD use. Double cabs are only available in auto; otherwise I would have gotten the manual.
I had a ext. cab 4X4 2.7L 5-speed. Gutsy little truck. I had tall gears and oversized tires so pulling through the mountains required a downshift, but would maintain 70-75 even up the steepest. Helluva engine IMHO and averaged 22-23mpg wether I flogged it or went easy. I off-roaded quite a bit and it did excellent. I've driven a reg. cab 4X4 2.7L automatic and it was just adequate for hills and such. I originally was shopping for a V6 automatic, but went with the 4cyl because they were much easier to find and cheaper. Plus 4-5mpg extra adds up. I never felt like I needed studs, even in a severe ice storm I got caught in. Very stable truck with good A/T tires. I just put er in 4lo and creeped up/down the big hills!
Does anyboby have info or experience with platinum plugs in the 3.4L V6, manual trans, 2WD? The dealer says no, too hot, come in misfiring and get the stock ones put back in for a tidy profit. Any experience with the Bosch Platinum +4, #4418, speced for the V6? I'd hate to have to do a plug change on the LA freeways. Thanks for your help. Ron
Well, I finally was able to get my Tacoma in to a dealer while the ABS light was on so that a diagnosis of the problem could be made. They had to replace two wheel sensors before the problem was solved. It hasn't come on since, so it appears that they did indeed fix it. Thanks a lot to Cobb County Toyota in Kennesaw, GA for their courteous service and running a service department that stays open late and Saturdays so that people with normal 8 to 5 jobs can utilize their services without taking off from work.
The dealer asked me to do this, engine bay driver side, fuse box, there is a 20A Fuse marked EFI, remove it for 30 sec with the engine shut off and put it back. this reset the EFI computer. Since the computer learns your driving style, it keep your "get away from the cell phone driver" driving style.
It worked once i got like 20MPG, and I am testing it to make sure it works, will let you guys know next week.
Last weekend, I did all freeway driving and it was 15 MPG. I normally drive around town during the week and not use the freeway, this got me the 14MPG.
I am going to keep the truck a little longer, because this in the only truck out there that I like and within my parameters, hoping things will work out, it is still back of my mind to return the truck.
PS. don't sue me if it does not work for you and/or you break your truck in the process. (legal disclaimer)
Pulling the fuse for 30 seconds wont do much good, probably, the recommented time is like 10 minutes, because there's a capacitor that keeps EFI computer alive for a while (if you are just swapping batteries, f. e.) This is recommended every time you do something that will affect the way engine works: whether you are doing a deckplate mod, or putting a Flowmaster muffler on the truck, pull the fuse, let the computer reset, and make it relearn the new air flow pattern, so it can adjust properly. It takes 100-200 miles for the computer to do so.
As far as gas milage: I'm seeing 16mpg in the city, thats on a truck thats not broken in yet, 1200 miles. Highway is a little better, but I havent done any real highway driving lately. I'm waiting for gas milage to go up, should be around 2K miles.
You may not see any noticeable increase in gas mileage. I haven't yet and my d-cab has almost 9000 miles on it. I changed to Mobil 1 at 2000 miles and thought that if anything would result in a noticeable increase in gas mileage, that would be it. I consistently get about 18.5 MPG on my normal (partially rural) commuting and about 21.5 MPG on pure interstate driving. Are there any other mods out there that someone can report positive results on with respect to gas mileage?
Check with www.tacomaterritory.com but overall: 1. Amsoil or K&N airfilter (don't ask the ttora guys, there's been too many arguements about them. I prefer Amsoil myself) 2. deckplate mod. A non-restricting muffler could give you better gas, maybe by a little....it's better used for extra hp. Considering that you can get a flowmaster or magnaflow for $70 plus installation, thats a good deal.
I have the K&N air cleaner on my '85 Toy w/ 22R engine. The only noticeable difference I could find after installation was increased intake noise. The reduced maintenance can probably justify it though, so I may switch after the OEM air filter needs changing. I have a dynomax muffler on the wife's Pathfinder and she says no way am I putting a louder muffler on my new truck so that mod is killed in in the interest of domestic tranquility. What is the deckplate mod? Is it like the "power tower" or something similar that I have seen in the Performance Products catalog? Seems like the gadget I saw was an aluminum spacer with a swirled center that sold for like a $100.
power tower, aka helix tower, is a worthless POS. It works on carburated engines, but there is no way in hell it'll work on EFI. Deckplate mod is this: you take the airbox out, go to a boat store and buy a deckplate from them (4 inch one is enough). Take a saw and cut a hole in the airbox front the size of the deckplate. Put the deckplate in, secure it, put the airbox back in, hook it up, open the deckplate, and what you have is a big hole in the airbox before the airfilter, that will induce more airflow to your system. I did this the first week I had the truck, so I can't tell whether it worked or not for better gas milage and hp (but I'll know later after the breakin, we know what the average stock Taco does). Too bad about the muffler.....thats my next step. Deckplate doesnt make your truck any louder, it gives a little deeper sound from more air moving through, and around 3K rpms you can hear engine whistling a little as it takes air in. It's reasonably hard for water and dirt to get to the deckplate, I went wheeling with it open, and didnt get anything in. Same with rain, the only time you actually have to close it is when you go mudding.
My 01 TRD DC has 6400 miles. Constant 14 MPG in town and 20-21 on highway. I'm an easy driver. I changed to the Toyota Racing Division oiled air cleaner at 3000 miles and I have not noticed any difference in engine performance. It may be a little more noisy.
I have a 2001 Reg. cab 2x4 SR5 auto with 14000 miles.I have been hearing and feeling this vibration and houling since the truck had 8000 miles. The dealer replaced the u-joint and it had no effect, then they changed the differential, and the noise and vibration are still there. This problem seems to come when the truck is up to temperature, also it is not pulling hard but not holding back either. You can also turn the engine off and put the transmission in neutral and hear and feel this as the truck coasts. The dealer and myself are completely stumped as to where this noise is coming from. Any help would be great!
My trucks original equip came with 225/75R15 w/ steel rims, I changed to Toyota/original equip 31.10/5 R-15 Alloyrims and tires, is there any significant problem with this change? It seems to lug down a little?
You need to check what kind of gears you run. 5spd 4x4 V6s run 3.91 gears, and 4x4 V6 auto run 4.10 gears. It's very likely that your truck had different gear ratio because of smaller tires. Typically, when people put bigger tires on the truck, they need to regear.
my 01 2wd tacoma sits higher than previous model years and yet no press on suspension changes. the 01 4wd models supposedly had an increase in wheel travel from the previous model year and I wonder if this is true with the 2wd model. also, I live in the midwest and put weight in the rear for better winter traction. I started out with 4 bags of 70lb. tube sand and the ride was effected greatly. I took 2 bags out and felt it was the best compromise. I wonder however why 280lbs taxed the suspension as much as it did being that it is a truck and the primary use of the vehicle is for hauling or carrying.
i own a'01 tocoma ext. cab. prerunner with a v6 and has the 265/70R16 Dueler H/T 686 by Bridgeston on the original alloy wheels. i've had it for a year (15000 miles) i love my truck,and have had no problems. but the gas mileage is terrible. it has gotten better from 14/16 to 15/18 (city/hwy) on the average. the one problem i do have is that the rear part of the truck seems to be to light when i am turning on a light i do not seem to have good traction on my rear tires because it feels the tires come of the ground, some of you might say it's the awsome engine power others might say that i might be a little heavy on the pedal. i agree with the engine power, but not that i am heavy on the pedal. well this was my finding last week when i made a 650 mile round road trip with a large full size sofa. i took the sofa to my brother in-law, on the way over the truck felt awsome with the weight of the sofa, on the turns i felt i had good traction of the road, my other finding was on the way up with the sofa the truck gave me about 22 mpg and on the way back witout the sofa the truck gave me about 18mpg. what the heck was that, i just might start driving around with a large sofa one the back of my truck from now on. it makes no sense the sofa creates extra draft while driving. what are your thoughts on this.
It is sometimes recommended in snowy/slick conditions that trucks carry bags of sand in the bed in order to provide better traction. But this ought not help for the gas milage. But you can just try and buy a 1-2 50lbs of sand at Home Depot, they are like $2 a piece and strap them in the bed. I have a 4x4 V6 5spd, and while I do like to rev the engine up, by gas milage is not that bad. On the freeway my gas milage depends largely on the speed I drive: 80-85mph I get about 18.5-19mpg, 90 I get 16.5mpg, while in the city I usually get 230 miles for 12 gallons.
I have a '95 std cab V6 4X4 my gas milage is about the same as yours.As for rear traction,scorpio is right.Add weight to the back.Alot of people throw 2-3 sandbags in back.I carry a portable welder and don't have the problem at all. kip
The howl and shake that you are experiencing is most likely from the tires. They may have a little road howl or may show a little "scalloping" (wearing unevenly on the shoulders) which will result in a shake and a howl. I would take it in and ask about the alignment and then rotate and balance the tires and see if that changes. I'll bet that it will. Chris
if you have uneven wear on the tires, you need to change the pressure. Simple test: find yourself a nice dry spot, like a parking lot. draw a chalk line across the tire. Then drive the truck for a little bit. Check where the chalk has worn off: if the wear is even, your tire pressure is ok. if the wear is more in the middle, reduce tire pressure. if the wear is on the rims, pump up the pressure. I run my 265 BFG ATs at 30psi front and back, and get good wear on all 4 tires. This would help to reduce some noise. As far as balancing tires goes, there is a trick to it...and I don't remember what it is. You need a special machine to balance tires, ordinary WalMart equipment wont do because of the lug pattern, I think.
In answer to your question regarding the suspension, I am an avid Tacoma person and I have to say, I do not know what you are talking about. If you have a standard two wheel drive (SST) Tacoma, it will be a low pickup the same as it has been since 95. If, by longer wheel travel, you are refering to the Prerunner (also a 2WD), then it has the same suspension as the 4WD has had since 98. The only difference between 95-98 were the rear leaf springs. The 01 4WD does not have "more clearance" than a 2000 model. The only difference is that in 2000 the TRD Off-Road package utilized Bilstein shocks and the 01 TRD uses Tokico shocks. Most people say that the Tokico shocks ride rougher. I do not have any personal experience with them. I have the Bilsteins on my 98 Prerunner and yes, the rear does seem a little soft. It can be fixed quite easily with an add-a-leaf from Rancho. Chris
O.K. I messed up, if you get a chance, check the ext. cab TRD for 2002 and see if they have Bilsteins or Tokico. Seems I read that Toyota was making the swap for some reason. Be glad you have the Bilsteins. Chris
I am just looking for some feedback from the 5 speed Tacoma owners. My 2001 has a notchy shift that is very noticeable while going into 2nd, and 4th. Is this the nature of this transmission, or is this a problem?
I had something similar with my tranny (Y2K Taco) several months ago. I took it to the dealer, who "could not replicate" so I took it home for the week, planning on taking it back the next week. After a couple of days, it quit doing it, so I never took it back. The basic thought by a mechanic other than the dealer was that it was the syncro rings.
Comments
I drive a DC and have noticed that the console box at your right elbow, is a little on the low side (for me at least) I found that I tended to lean to the right, and lean on the box, causing back pain. If I set upright, and forget the box, all is fine. I had this same problem on a car a few years back. Since I figured out that my back pain was actually a posture problem, I have not had any trouble.
Good luck
Another thing you can do is start carrying your wallet in your front pocket. The wallet can cause an assymetric pelvic tilt that can exacerbate chronic back pain.
Toyota does not recommend modifying its vehicles from their original factory specifications. Modifications could affect the vehicle's performance, safety or durability, and may violate government regulations. In addition, damage or performance problems resulting from the modification may not be covered under warranty. Because of this, we do not provide information on how to modify your vehicle." Not a lot of help are they?
Thanks for your response,
Ron
I do notice my truck doesn't go into second as smooth as other gear transitions. It's almost as if second is below first, but a little to the right and it doesn't just drop into place super-smooth. When I go into second, I pull the shift lever down and just a little to the right, and it seems to help. Everybody other Tacoma I've driven does this as well. I've never found it to be a problem, in fact, I think the Tacoma's 5 speed tranny is one of the notchiest and smoothest out there. Try VW's 5 speed - total slop by comparison. Don't know what to say about the cluth. Mine starts to engage about 1/3 to 1/2 way up from being fully depressed.
ahardcastle:
Is your truck new? With some miles, the suspension will loosen up a little bit. Might want to wait it out before you start messing with your shock absorbers. Also, not keeping your tires inflated to the max pressure will make quite a difference. In addition, when you buy tires, avoid the triple ply off-roading tires, as they are very tough and offer no give. Of course, of you plan on any towing, I wouldn't change anything - the TRD's stiff suspension is ideal for towing.
The only thing I hate about my clutch is it squeaks often. Does yours do the same?
The clutch [non-permissible content removed] is not about the pedal distance off the floor or how far down, it is about the pedal movement being so small between disengaged and hookup, as 759387 refers to as "rough launches". There is also a sharp deceleration, as in carburetted vehicles with bad accelerator pumps, or cold with no choke, unless I get the revs off idle just right, or work that hair trigger clutch real slow, which in the LA area traffic means everybody and his brother jumps in front of you. I used to think the injection circuit needed fixing, but I think all that is due now to that clutch hooking up too quick for the fuel system to compensate. IF I had another 1/16" of travel between disengaged and hookup, I think I'd be as happy as a pig in ..... I'll have to wait until the pressure plate and disk get changed to find out, I guess.
Yeah, I can't make a left or a right in traffic without that right rear tire lighting off. I still have the stock tires on, sure hope going to p225-70/14s when these wear out will help. I have yet to get good and stuck in the snow, but I don't expect it to have the traction of that old Ford Courier I used to drive without a limited slip diff. Does anybody know of any of those aftermarket LS diffs that work worth the time and money?
Thanks for the replies, it's good to know I'm not alone.
I checked last night on the ride home and our shifter was smooth from 1-2 and 2-4 if you do that crossover. My father used to do that when I was a kid, used to bother the hell out of me. It was fine if he revved in 1st and 2nd but most of the time he just putted along in 1 and 2 and then flipped it into 4th and bogged....I used to fear for his exhuast system from the shaking. He still does it in his Maxima but I haven't had to drive with him for years. Thanks God.
Our clutch isn't bad now that I used it and thought about it. Our VW catches a little smoother and I wouldn't compare it to our BMW linkage because it is totally different.
Happy driving.
I have the same issue, Toyota people said it's driving style, and tells you to pound sand. I have gotten my EFI computer to reset, and it gone up to 20 MPG, but after that tank of gas it jumped back to 14 MPG. I am trying to find a different way to have my components replaced on my truck. calling Toyota Corporate does not work. and frustrating.
The Service manager said the "16-bit computer" will adjust to your driving habits, i gunned the engine every now and then to get away from Cell Phone drivers and Asian Women. The truck will not start if the computer has not gone thru all sensors. I think the computer was programed by Microsoft.
The truck is popular here in northern vermont...but I can't get a good opinion.
thanks..
You'll get a lot of opinions about the 4-banger, pretty much all of them favorable. I can't say anything, I have a real engine
As for fourwheeling: I think this is one area a 4 cylinder would be every bit as good as a six. When you're fourwheeling, the speeds are pretty low, and the 4 cylinder is pretty torquey. Besides, if you're doing nothing but spinning your tires 4-wheeling, you're doing something wrong! I had a Suzuki Samurai with one of the weakest 4 cylinders ever made, and that thing would go ANYWHERE!!!
BUT, I chose the 6 cylinder in my Taco because I do a lot of highway and city driving, and the six is smoother and much more capable on the highway, plus its power lets you "squirt" through congested, slower traffic more easily.
Just my $.02.
My only complaint with the 2K Taco is the uncomfortable seats. My commute is too long for them to be comfortable - the seats in the Wrangler are much better!
Thanks for your help.
Ron
Thanks a lot to Cobb County Toyota in Kennesaw, GA for their courteous service and running a service department that stays open late and Saturdays so that people with normal 8 to 5 jobs can utilize their services without taking off from work.
It worked once i got like 20MPG, and I am testing it to make sure it works, will let you guys know next week.
Last weekend, I did all freeway driving and it was 15 MPG. I normally drive around town during the week and not use the freeway, this got me the 14MPG.
I am going to keep the truck a little longer, because this in the only truck out there that I like and within my parameters, hoping things will work out, it is still back of my mind to return the truck.
PS. don't sue me if it does not work for you and/or you break your truck in the process. (legal disclaimer)
This is recommended every time you do something that will affect the way engine works:
whether you are doing a deckplate mod, or putting a Flowmaster muffler on the truck, pull the fuse, let the computer reset, and make it relearn the new air flow pattern, so it can adjust properly.
It takes 100-200 miles for the computer to do so.
As far as gas milage: I'm seeing 16mpg in the city, thats on a truck thats not broken in yet, 1200 miles. Highway is a little better, but I havent done any real highway driving lately. I'm waiting for gas milage to go up, should be around 2K miles.
Are there any other mods out there that someone can report positive results on with respect to gas mileage?
but overall:
1. Amsoil or K&N airfilter (don't ask the ttora guys, there's been too many arguements about them. I prefer Amsoil myself)
2. deckplate mod.
A non-restricting muffler could give you better gas, maybe by a little....it's better used for extra hp. Considering that you can get a flowmaster or magnaflow for $70 plus installation, thats a good deal.
I have a dynomax muffler on the wife's Pathfinder and she says no way am I putting a louder muffler on my new truck so that mod is killed in in the interest of domestic tranquility.
What is the deckplate mod? Is it like the "power tower" or something similar that I have seen in the Performance Products catalog? Seems like the gadget I saw was an aluminum spacer with a swirled center that sold for like a $100.
It works on carburated engines, but there is no way in hell it'll work on EFI.
Deckplate mod is this: you take the airbox out, go to a boat store and buy a deckplate from them (4 inch one is enough). Take a saw and cut a hole in the airbox front the size of the deckplate. Put the deckplate in, secure it, put the airbox back in, hook it up, open the deckplate, and what you have is a big hole in the airbox before the airfilter, that will induce more airflow to your system. I did this the first week I had the truck, so I can't tell whether it worked or not for better gas milage and hp (but I'll know later after the breakin, we know what the average stock Taco does).
Too bad about the muffler.....thats my next step. Deckplate doesnt make your truck any louder, it gives a little deeper sound from more air moving through, and around 3K rpms you can hear engine whistling a little as it takes air in.
It's reasonably hard for water and dirt to get to the deckplate, I went wheeling with it open, and didnt get anything in. Same with rain, the only time you actually have to close it is when you go mudding.
Looks Like fun, i saw this a while ago, did not know what it was. after sc0rpi0 described it....
Anyway found it on http://mntoyx4.com/toyonly_links.html under Engine Related, there are a lot of pointers on snorkels and deep water crossing.
5spd 4x4 V6s run 3.91 gears, and 4x4 V6 auto run 4.10 gears. It's very likely that your truck had different gear ratio because of smaller tires.
Typically, when people put bigger tires on the truck, they need to regear.
well this was my finding last week when i made a 650 mile round road trip with a large full size sofa. i took the sofa to my brother in-law, on the way over the truck felt awsome with the weight of the sofa, on the turns i felt i had good traction of the road, my other finding was on the way up with the sofa the truck gave me about 22 mpg and on the way back witout the sofa the truck gave me about 18mpg. what the heck was that, i just might start driving around with a large sofa one the back of my truck from now on. it makes no sense the sofa creates extra draft while driving.
what are your thoughts on this.
But you can just try and buy a 1-2 50lbs of sand at Home Depot, they are like $2 a piece and strap them in the bed.
I have a 4x4 V6 5spd, and while I do like to rev the engine up, by gas milage is not that bad. On the freeway my gas milage depends largely on the speed I drive: 80-85mph I get about 18.5-19mpg, 90 I get 16.5mpg, while in the city I usually get 230 miles for 12 gallons.
kip
Chris
if the wear is even, your tire pressure is ok.
if the wear is more in the middle, reduce tire pressure.
if the wear is on the rims, pump up the pressure. I run my 265 BFG ATs at 30psi front and back, and get good wear on all 4 tires.
This would help to reduce some noise.
As far as balancing tires goes, there is a trick to it...and I don't remember what it is. You need a special machine to balance tires, ordinary WalMart equipment wont do because of the lug pattern, I think.
Chris
Chris
I got them on my Xtracab '02.
The Tohikos are on '02 DCs
Good luck.