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Toyota RAV4 pre-2006



  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    There are a small number of Rav's with the hesitation problem, but mine is not one of them. I'm sure if you go to the RIGHT dealer and/or call Toyota you'll get some response.

    The dealer you went to obviously isn't good. My Rav had squeaky brakes (not a safety issue, just annoying), and all the dealer had to do is put on the new redesigned PADS, NOT ROTORS, per the TSB. Cost me nothing, and the brakes are silent. No need to turn rotors, so actually I got 10,000 free miles on the brake pads.

    My Toyotas always go 70k miles on brakes before needing anything, and I drive about 60% city, 40% highway.

    Now that I have had a couple of minor squeaks and rattles fixed per the TSB's, the Rav is perfect. My other Toyotas have never been back to the dealer for anything other than routine maintenance and a starter motor at 110,000 miles. Currently 145k on that Corolla, still perfect. Honda is not perfect either. They have their share of problems, as you can read for yourself. Honda and Toyota are tied in reliability.
  • That's when the Toyota Matrix will start competing with the RAV, not to mention the just arrived CR-V. Without question, the RAV has the best styling, but it's overpriced and a little cramped. It's also hard to find one without a lot of Toyota added fluff("options"). The CR-V is a lot simpler to buy, IMO and a much better value.
  • I don't think Toyota design the Matrix to compete against a well selling Rav-4, so that doesn't make a lot of sense, but it's a neat little car that should do well with the young folk. As far as the CR-V all I can say is "BORING"
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 4,821
    rlslick you hit it right on the head. the matrix will appeal to the younger generations. the crv yet boring will take sales away from the rav 4.reasons being honda is not stiffing the consumer with all or nothing options. honda does offer the bigger motor plus the option selection is alot easier to find or order.if economey doen't improve toyota will take a big hit. the rav4 are not selling like earlier in the year 01.the smart shopper even thou boring will go for the honda.

    2016 BMW X-5 35i, 2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2012 MB ML350

  • That's the one thing I never understood, is why didn't Toyota come out with a V-6 when all the mini-Suv did. The Ra-4 is almost the perfect small ute other then it need to have a choice of engine sizes. Wife and I have two and we both would love a larger engine. I still take a new Rav-4 over a CR-V.
    I really hated that the Rav-4 went to this new body change, it looks like a lot of other utes. I lost interest when I saw the new ones, others may think the same thing, and that may be the reason the new Rav-4s are not selling well.
  • In response to the dangerous acceleration problem...I had it in my 2001 RAV4. Made all the phone calls and dealer trips, even went through arbitration and no fix or help from Toyota. I now longer have the vehicle as it was painful to drive it......I traded it in and not for a Toyota. Not that I'm anti-Toyota.....just have to get them out of my system for a few years after the RAV4 blunder. Best of luck to you and the others with this problem.
  • al63017al63017 Posts: 149
    Just a warning for all of you this is really scary when you have this happen in oncoming traffic. My compensation for this is to wait and wait and not go when most people would as I never know when this thing will almost go dead and have no throttle response at all. It is unbelievable the first time it happens and I remember I almost could not believe it--but now it happens often enough that I watch very carefully turning or merging as you may not have the zip you thought.
    Thanks for the input from others that have had this and hopefully my dealer will respond and fix this. There obviously is a fix if they care to do it.
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    kevinjh1: Nice to see you on this site.
    Hope your new ride is working out well.

    Others: kevin called his problem RAV4 the 'Charlie Brown Edition' on another site. ;->

    -ss4 (aka ejpede)
  • How's it going? Well, I don't miss the RAV that much. Life is good. Again, thanks for the support on the other site. Your perspective, honesty, and respect for others was and is much apprectiated. I still check in every now and then hoping not to see anyone flaming out about the problems they are having. It's too bad. If Toyota can come up with a fix for the acceleration problem, or if it does actually just go's a great little suv. I hope you are still enjoying yours. Happy Holidays!!!
  • Was your Rav4 automatic or standard? I have to say that I wasn't too impressed with the test drive of Rav4 automatic. I plan to test drive the standard next month.
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    Kevin H: Yeah, I'm still enjoying the RAV every time out. I'm now over 17.5k miles.

    I appreciated your non-flaming posts on the other site, even though you had a serious problem vehicle and took a lot of heat from some immature posters who couldn't envision the shoe being on the other foot. You showed a lot of personal integrity.

    Happy holidays to you, too. Best wishes for the New Year.

  • I bought a 2000 Rav4 and live in Phoenix Az. Everytime I get out of the car and touch the door to close it I get an electric shock. Is anyone else experiencing this or have any thoughts on how to fix it?
  • That happen with almost every car that have cloth seats! I have a 97 Rav-4 and I use to get zapped all the time. Two things you can do, you can go and buy a can of Static Guard and spray it all over your seat. That helps for a while, or you can do like I did and ask for a leather car seat cover for Christmas. Having leather or vinyl covering will help a lot from getting popped by your car. Hope that helps!
  • This is not exclusive to the RAV 4. Can happen with any car. Having lived in the Phoenix area for 17 years I've had the same problem. It is sooooo dry. One trick is to keep the ignition key in your hand as you get out and touch the body or door handle with the key first. No more shocks to you.
  • Is it possible to order a Camry station wagon from Australia? Toyota sells THREE DIFFERENT MODELS of Camry wagon there!! I DETEST SUVs and don't want a Highlander - I want a Camry wagon. Does anyone know if it's possible to get one from Australia to Massachusetts? Any help would be appreciated!
  • Every once in a while, and always when we're driving in new snow, the brakes make an awful rachety, grinding sound, and seem to slip. It feels like a toothed belt slipping on a gear. These aren't panic stops, just normal ligh pressure. The dealer says that's what's supposed to happen w/ ABS but I find it unnerving.
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    dlancy1: I don't know if it has anything to do with ABS, but -
    there is at least one TSB for '01 (and '02?) RAV4 brake noise. I've read that some have a problem with squeal (seems to be front discs) and some have a problem with groan (seems to be rear drums).

    Yours is the first report I've heard of any brake slippage, though. Everyone else's reports about noise say there seems to be no effect on braking, but they might not have been driving in snow.
  • raybearraybear Posts: 1,795
    Don't they have right-hand drive in Australia?

    What about a Subaru? They put most of the other wagons out of business.
  • desertguydesertguy Posts: 730
    I just rented a 2001 Camry in Minnesota and it was a white Christmas up there. The ABS caused the same kind of sound you describe. At first it was a little unnerving but they are just doing what they are supposed to do. No problems in the snow.
  • I know this sounds strange - two vehicles which are rarely cross-shopped - but as they cost nearly the same, why not? I have driven the RAV with FWD (RAV2?) and the 4-cyl Camry LE and XLE (all automatics). The RAV and the LE are virtually the same price, yet the Camry seemed much more luxurious and powerful. I did like the upright and high seating position of the RAV, but it seems wildly overpriced for what you get. In other words, if the RAV were, say, $15,000 and a similarly equipped Camry LE, say, $21,000, then it might make sense to go either way. But when the RAV comes in actually several hundred dollars higher than the Camry . . . ??? Am I missing something? I realize there are special uses for an SUV, but I suspect that most people, at any rate those who are not shopping for sports cars (and that includes everybody looking at Camrys and RAVs), mainly want a safe, comfortable, quiet, reliable, affordable car. If those are one's goals, then doesn't the Camry realize them better than the RAV? To put it another way, if one does not need the loading capabilities of the RAV, is there ANY reason to consider it over a Camry? (These are not academic questions, as I need to buy a car very soon, and I am still undecided between the Camry and the RAV - mainly out of respect for those who have chosen the RAV -and between the Camry LE and XLE.) Thanks!
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    Apart from the availability of AWD (which you apparently are not interested in), a lot of people choose a mini-ute for the higher seating position, more storage room, and because they prefer the styling (and/or image) over a sedan, station wagon or minivan.

    If you are not wired that way, then your money will go further with a sedan, which, for roughly the same money, is more refined, more plush.
  • babsanbabsan Posts: 4
    I bought my 2001 RAV4 in San Diego about a year ago, and I like it a lot. Only problem is the famous sun roof rattle as well as some sluggish acceleration sometimes.

    I may return home to Europe in a year or so, and of course I have planned to take the car with me. But as I went to a car dealership in Northern Norway (far above the arctic circle...) to check prices and equipment for comparison, the salesman told me that cars intended for the arctic/northern climates have a different 'more solid' construction when it comes to for example cable dimensioning and such, compared to cars intended for the southern california market.
    Is this true? if yes, can any adaptation be made if I decide to take the car to Europe to make sure it can operate optimally in such a different climate?

    I will most likely relocate to continental Europe, where this will be a non-issue, but I would like to know if there is something I can do at my dealership while in the US to save money etc in case I decide to return to the far north.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    hmmm, that's a bit of news to me. I lived in Anchorage for years and cars there were generally prepped with a cold weather package - block heaters, heavy duty batteries and alternators and such, but nothing too special. Most everything else was stock -ditto for trucks sold for work on the North Slope.

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  • babsanbabsan Posts: 4
    Would it be possible to add such block heaters, replace or upgrade to the heavy duty battery etc?

    (Im a complete car idiot so bear with my basic questions.... I don't even know what a block heater is.. ha ha)
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Unless you actually wind up way up North, I'd not do anything special. If the mechanics up there work on the RAV, then I'd let them do the work once I moved there. If they don't work on them or stock parts for them up there, you're gonna be hurting anyhow :-).

    Any Canadians out there got any suggestions? (and I don't mean you guys in the banana belt in southern Ontario).

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  • george00 % suvshopper4: Bought an '02 RAV4 for my wife last month & my father-in-law bought an '02 Camry last week. Your right on with the pricing & the reason [use]for the purchase. Although his is the XLE and more $ its the plusher & more refined of the two and a top family sedan. I drive a '99 Honda CR-V 5spd and my wife liked the high driving position, storage etc. The RAV4 was purchased because of better price [than an '02 CR-V] and it seemed to be smaller. Wife liked the look, interior appointments and reliability reputation. These are two different vehicles, serving different niches and satisfying both drivers.
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    Some people have written that if the RAV4 gas cap is not fully tightened after a fuel fill-up (3 clicks), the CEL comes on, and stays on.

    On another site, people have written that they've had success turning the CEL off (when you can let the RAV sit for a while) by pulling a 20-amp fuse, #13 in the fuse box under the hood, and leaving it out for a while (overnight definitely, but I've also read that 20 minutes might work). This allows the charge to drain out of the ECU. Supposedly the fuses are small, but there is a little fuse-puller tool included in the fusebox.

    I haven't verified any of this info, but the posters (on are credible.

    RAV on.
  • My 2001 RAV4 4WD L (with 2500 miles) has developed an intermittent rattle on the driver's side in one of the doors. It sounds like a window is loose, though both front and back seem firmly in place. Has anyone else experienced this? Has anyone else gotten decent service on it? In the NYC area? Other than that, I am pretty happy with the car. It lacks only highway passing power.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    It could be in the A pillar. Take to your dealer and request a repair. There are several Technical Service Bulletins for rattles. Mine had a couple rattles, but were all successfully fixed, even after 10+ miles later. Warning: some dealers give excellent service, some won't fix or don't do it right the first time. I found this with all dealers, irregardless of make (GM, Toyota, etc.) Try different dealers until you are happy.
  • rav11rav11 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 RAV4 with just about all the bells and whistles except leather. I've loved it since I bought it last May. HOWEVER, lately I've been having problems.

    First I had them check my brakes cause I was having horrendous metal on metal scraping noise every once in awhile. The car had 9,000 miles on it. They took the car in and said I needed new front brakes and that I'd have to pay for them - needless to say, I disagreed. I had them go ahead and put them on then when I went in to pick up the car they said "no charge". As it turns out there was some sort of bulletin on the brakes - so those of you out there with brake problems, push to have the brakes replaced at 'their' cost - not yours!

    Secondly, my engine trouble light came on. I called the dealer and he suggested that the gas cap had not been sealed at the last fill-up and that I should reseal it by making sure it clicked a few times when tightened, then drive it for 60 minutes of driving time to see if the light went off - if I brought it in and they found out that was the problem, they'd have to charge me. So I did the tighten and 60 minute drive thing - but the light still didn't go out. No other problems were in evidence at that time. I took it in and they said they needed to download a new version of software into the computer and then the light should go out. As it turns out, while they were downloading the software there was a backlash or something and they fried my computer! So, they loaned me a car (which they made sure to tell me there would be 'no charge' for - DUH!) for 3 days while they ordered and installed the new computer - which already had the new software installed. As I was leaving, I asked what other problems could I expect and that I'd be seeing them.... haha! Anyway, no other problems were evidenced after that - BUT I did notice that the car seemed to have more pickup, less hesitations, etc. So some of the problems I've seen on this site could be computer-related!!

    UNTIL THIS MORNING, my car was parked in my insulated garage and when I went to start it, it wouldn't start right up. I had to turn the ignition on 2-3 different times and then stomp on the gas pedal which finally activated things to make the engine start! Which it did, thankfully, since I needed to get to work. This has NEVER happened before - my car has ALWAYS started up IMMEDIATELY - even when it's been out in cold weather and rain and snow! Not sure what is going to happen tonight when I try to go home.

    Question: does anyone have experience with the non-start thing and might it be connected to the computer replacement?

    Another: My brakes are again doing the major metal on metal screeching (not the normal little squeal often heard on cars these days) again. Believe me, if they need to be replaced AGAIN at less than 11,000 miles on the care, I'M STILL NOT GOING TO PAY FOR THEM! Anyone else with this experience?

    I sincerely hope and pray I do not have a LEMON!

    Thanks for any info forthcoming!
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