Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

1121315171865

Comments

  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    If you hit the cormer of the trooper bumper it probably popped back out. Mine did when it was hit in the parking lot, but the plastic showed the effect as did the paint. The side of the van that hit the bumper corner made it all the way to the underneath part of the tail light which left a peach sized dent in that part of the quarter panel. There is metal behind the bumper skin along the back that is about the guage of rain spout metal. You can bend it very easily.
  • viktoria_rviktoria_r Member Posts: 103
    Less than a 1000 mi ago I had oil change, and we used synthetic Mobil 1 oil. Last week we took 800 mi round trip to visit friends. The truck was sitting (not driven) there for a week. Before the return trip my husband checked oil and dipstick came out completely dry! We bought and added approx 3/4 qt of Mobil 1, and then level seemed OK. Where all that oil that was put in during oil change could have possibly gone? P.S. I heard Troopers tend to consume up to 1qt/1000mi, but this seemed a bit strange. It did not happen before. Any thoughts?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Not for nothing, but did you check to make sure that the shop put in the correct amount of fluid? Many shops I've been to don't put the correct amount in. Always trust yourself and check it under the same conditions. I always check it when the engine is warm, usually @ a fuel stop, and so far under Mobil 1 I've got 2500miles of non-loss. This weekend I'm driving from NYC->Ann Arbor, MI-> Grand Rapids->Ann Arbor->NYC so that will be about 2K miles on top of the 2500 I already have, hopefully I'll be able to report no oil loss.

    -mike
  • viktoria_rviktoria_r Member Posts: 103
    I did not check before leaving. But I know they put in at least 5 qts during oil change because I brought my own oil. I did not have any indications that anything is wrong( i.e oil low light, etc). So i hope no damage was done. And it only took 3/4 qt to bring it to normal level. I will keep an eye on it.
  • keepontroopinkeepontroopin Member Posts: 297
    Something sounds fishy here. Maybe the dipstick wasn't in the whole way when you took your measurement. If my 2000 Trooper were down 3/4 qrt I would still have oil on the dipstick when i checked the oil. So the way I see it is either the dipstick wasn't in the whole way when you checked it, or the people who changed your oil scammed you on some of the oil they were to put in. The important lesson here though is that you need to make sure you double check your oil level after an oil change to make sure they did their job. Also doesn't the Trooper take over five qrts when you change the oil?
  • dchoppdchopp Member Posts: 256
    How many quarts does the Trooper take? I usually add about a 1/2 qt. extra for the oil filter. Was that the first time you used synthetic oil or have you been using it right along. Some people have reported some oil consumption when they first switch to synthetic.
    DCH
  • pat_pendingpat_pending Member Posts: 36
    IIRC, the oil capacity of the trooper, with oil filter change, is greater than 5 quarts. It may well be that Viktoria was down 1/2 - 3/4 quarts following the oil change, AND coincidentally didn't get the dipstick fully in; thus the oil didn't register on the stick, and adding 3/4 quart made the dipstick read correctly afterward.

    -Ken
  • viktoria_rviktoria_r Member Posts: 103
    it was the 1st time i used synthetic oil
  • radman6radman6 Member Posts: 81
    Took our 2000S in for service today at Wendle Isuzu in Spokane. We had 6 maintenance / repair items including an oil change, rattle in center console, small fluid leak from transfer case, small rear differential leak, intermittent check engine light, and excessive black carbon buildup in tailpipe.

    Dealer ordered parts for the leaks and asked us to bring it back and leave it for a a few hours. They will work on the rattle issue at the same time. They checked the computer but didn't find any codes. Also checked the exhaust and said everything was within factory specifications.

    I had hoped they could knock out most or all of these issues in one visit but in fairness we didn't get the rest of the items on the service ticket in time for them to allocate enough time to get to everything. Hopefully we'll have better results on the next visit.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I switched at 10K to what a dealer said was synthetic. I'm not convinced they actually put in synthetic. 2500miles ago I put in Mobil 1 (actually saw my local oil change place put it in) so far no oil drop, engine runs quieter, and runs about 2 notches below the middle on the temp guage, before that it was running exactly dead on center. Also before the mobil 1 it was loosing at least 1Q per 1500-2K miles on synthetic, and 1Q/1K miles on regular dino.

    -mike
  • spirollispirolli Member Posts: 50
    Looks like Mobil 1 is the way to go. I have an oil change due at 19,000 on my 2000 Trooper Ltd. I'll make sure that the dealer carries Mobil 1. If not, I pick up the 5-6 quarts on my own. I also have to start checking the oil in my Troop. I haven't checked the oil since that last time I had the oil changed at 16,000 miles. I guess I trust the dealer to do his job a little too much..

    Other then the oil change.. the only other maintenance issues I have to report to the dealer are..

    1. That Trans Slip issue that I wrote about in post #696.
    2. A small leak in the front trans case or whatever it's called. I noticed small red spots underneath the front of the truck.
    3. Rotate the tires.
    4. Driver's side power window going down slow.

    Other then that, the Troop is doing well.

    Steve
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    I have been using Mobile 1 since 1st oil change and can report the following: I was using about a qt. every 3 to 4k miles. My service advisor claimed you can go 10k on an oil change using Mobile 1 especially because I roll up the miles quickly (about 3k per month). This time around I had it changed @ 24k and am currently at 32k. In that time I added 1/2 qt twice. After checking dip stick I will make the final 2k to the next oil change with/out adding any additional oil. So my latest tally is one qt in 10k miles, not too bad. Perhaps my motor is now hitting it's long term stride or maybe my driving habits have been more calm. Either way, I hope this continues.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    i wouldn't go more than 7k on the same oil filter.

    -mike
  • carolinawahoocarolinawahoo Member Posts: 5
    Has anyone else had problems with their speedometer? 10 miles into my drive home after JUST picking up my new 2001 Rodeo LS 4x4, the speedometer bounced around, then died. The odometer stopped adding mileage as well. After a while, the check engine light came on.

    I'm not concerned with the check engine light because I expected it to come on when the speedo stopped.

    I'm assuming something is messed up with the electrical system connected to the speedo. Everything else is in excellent working order.

    We took it in to the dealer and were told it has been happening with some of the 2001 Rodeo's and that simply changing the speedo does not work. Apparently they are looking for some type of short. I was told "engineers at Isuzu are looking into it right now and that I should hear from them in a couple days." I'm assuming I'll get it back sooner than later though because they gave me a 2002 Axiom to drive until they fix it (even though Isuzu typically will not give you a loaner, I guess with less than 330 miles on it, they made an exception). I'm just trying to find out if ANYONE else had had this problem, or has heard of anyone having this problem....

    Even if you have a 1999 or 2000 model please let me know.

    Thanks for any responses....
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Depends on the filter. Mobil 1, Pure One, Amsoil can go the 10k. OEM and Frams, NO.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I don't know anyone in the auto-industry that suggests any change interval beyond 7K miles for oil and filters. Not to mention unless you are cranking out 3000+ miles per month, you should change your oil every 3 months regardless of milage.

    -mike
  • zman21zman21 Member Posts: 46
    My 2000 S 2WD is gonna be 1 yr old in a few weeks. It has 9800 mi. What service/maintenance should i "really" consider being done. Thanks in advance guys!!!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My 2000 Trooper will be 1 year this coming Sunday! 24K miles and still rollin! I'm buying it a carport/tent/canopy to protect it from the sap at my house up in the Mts.

    -mike
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    What is the consensus between OEM oil filters and the Mobile One model. Is the MB1 filter that much better than the Isuzu filter? I was getting ready to order a couple from St. Charles but now I will hold off until a hear a few opinions. I'm the guy that does 3k per month (avg). I've been using Delco and Purolator. I need this truck to run a long time and want to use the best. Also, do some of the service intervals look a little redundant? I do not think I'll have anything performed til 50k the way this thing is running. Even then I just want to do the prudent procedures. I look forward to your responses.
  • gtroopgtroop Member Posts: 85
    Believe it or not, my Honda manual said 7500 miles between oil changes. I have heard that oil consumption has a lot to do with the kind of traffic you drive in regularly. If you sit in a lot of stop and go you will burn more probably because the engine doesn't get up to operating temperature and oil goes by the rings into the combustion chamber and burns up. I personally change my oil at 5000 mile intervals but haven't decided which filter to use on the Trooper - I'll probably go with Pureolator or Mobile One since going to the dealer is out of my way. Might as well get the oil and filter at the same time and drop off the old oil from the last change.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Here is the best oil filter review I have ever found.


    http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilters.html


    The site also reviews oils.

  • fiveharpersfiveharpers Member Posts: 53
  • fiveharpersfiveharpers Member Posts: 53
    After much research including the filter report listed in the previous posting (never will use Fram again). I decided that Mobil 1 was the way for me to go. Check out the Edmunds forum for synthetic motor oil at
    "Synthetic motor oil" Jun 5, 2001 3:52am

    I ordered filters from St Charles Isuzu at $4.xx. I found Mobil 1 at Target for $3.64 per qt, next best was Walmart at $4.17. My driving habits do not fall under any of the severe conditions so I will go with the Isuzu suggested oil change recommendations of 7500 miles.
    I believe I read in a post somewhere that the Isuzu filters were made by Purolator but I have not confirmed this.

    Anyway just wanted to put my opinion in also.
    John ><>
  • ctnewtonctnewton Member Posts: 9
    I just performed what I thought where key parts of the Isuzu recommended 15K service for my '99 Trooper TOD. This includes


    Front and rear diff lube change, TOD fluid level check, oil change and chassis lube (I havent finished the last as I don't know where all the Zerks are. Anyway, I wrote up a short procedure and put it at:

    http://www.suvtech.com/discus/

    under Trooper DIY tips.


    If you know where those Zerk fittings are, let me know! I saw two on the drive shaft, that's it!


    Pete

  • gberrygberry Member Posts: 21
    I bought and service my Trooper at Performance Isuzu in Ellicott City, Maryland. They have been very good about diagnosing and taking care of problems from the mundane to the serious, and have never given me a hassle about the warranty. The most serious problem was a faulty transmission that was bad from the get-go (first noticed at 2K miles and fixed at 4K miles, but thinking back, it was bad from the start). It was especially noticeable when going up a hill, it occurred in 3rd gear, and always when going between 34 - 39 mph. It would slip and sound like a whooshing sound. The dealer replaced the entire transmission no questions asked, and also replaced the transfer case. This is not a cheap repair, folks; I'm very glad it was under warranty. The Trooper has been great ever since.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I also noted your problem on http://www.isuzu-suvs.com under the FAQ section.


    -mike

  • conman2000conman2000 Member Posts: 158
    Glad you found a great dealer which fixed your problem. Sorry you had a problem but hopefully you have no other problems.

    Cheers,
    Con
  • atgepatgep Member Posts: 4
    Just thought I would give you all a heads up that my last rim is for sale on e-bay. It is from a 99 S model. Here is the link

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=592128066


    Thanks, Troopin.

  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Mobil 1, Pure One and Amsoil/Hastings IMHO much better then OEM and this is based upon 9 years of oil analysis using them. Just purchased a 97 Rodeo with 57,000 converted to synthetic and oil analyzed at 3000. Looked too good to change and in the future I am going to once a year changes (about 12,000 miles) with a filter at 6 months. I have done this on several cars with excellent results but wanted to see the analysis results after converting. This is the 3.2 L engine. .

    Some filters can go over 10,000 miles and many synthetics can go well over 12,000 miles between changes.

    Some manufacturers have 15,000 mile changes now, Mercedes, being one. Depends how much stock you own in Pennzoil/Quaker State
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well I live in NYC, and drive my cars very very hard. I sometimes change even synthetic before 7500miles. To me it's cheap insurance. I wouldn't want to risk ruining my engine for a $20-$40 oil change....

    -mike
  • centralcentral Member Posts: 51
    My experience is that every mechanic I trust and most independent studies consistently quote 3000miles as the recommended change interval.

    I hope you are not relying on looks to tell you that your oil is ok. That is going to cost you, or the unlucky next owner, big time. Oil is a very complex product that changes chemical properties dramatically upon exposure to heat and time.

    Like Paisan said, and especially at the DIY price of under $10, changing your oil and filter frequently is cheap insurance. At least these are my 2-bit opinions.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    The question is, who makes this filter and how good is it? I've heard from several folks knowledgeable about Isuzus that the OEM filter for the Trooper is good or very good. I don't think an oil filter is bad just because it has an automaker's own brand stamped on the outside. It may very well be a quality filter.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    I never believed the claims of synthetics for extended drains and with "oil analysis" I have gradually extended my schedules over the past 9 years. My twin turbo I change at 5,000, My 92 camry at 7,500 (134,000 miles< my two kids cars once a year, filter at 6 months and my company car at 12,000 miles, filter half way.

    Analysis shows that the oil remains good at the point I sample, basically when I change it. So, at this point I have absolutely no qualms about going 12,000 miles between changes with a quality synthetic and good filter. Even Consumer reports says 5,000 minimum for dino oil. The people professing 3000 changes are living on past experiences when oils and engines simply were not built as well and the marketing hype from Pennzoil and Quaker State adds to the confusion as they would be financially hurt to a very large degree if people even went to a 5000 mile interval. Sure $10 is cheap, now, the hassle of maintaining 5 cars like I do and how much is hassle, in today's crazy world, worth!!! Whether you do it yourself or bring it in every 3000 miles it is a huge "HASSLE"
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I maintain 3 cars and drive close to 40K miles a year. Why do you maintain your kids cars? I know too many parents who maintain their kids cars, and heck I'd never have learned anything had my daddy done that for me. He told me if I wanted to have driving privledges, then I'd have to do at least the maintenance items (oil, gas, filters, etc) or have em done professionally.

    Anyhow, for me $40/2-3mo per car won't break the bank, it's the price I pay for driving. Beats a $3000-$4000 engine job down the road. :)

    -mike
  • centralcentral Member Posts: 51
    Ok, I'll bite what is the "oil analysis" that you are continually referring to? I for one would be very interested to know what oil you have used and the viscosity, pour point, flash point, %ash and %zinc your USED oil has.

    As to your claims about "living on past experiences", I fully accept this "criticism". I believe in learning by the past mistakes of others. I also believe, that contrary to your assertion, today's closer tolerance/higher revving engines are even harder on motor oils. If nothing else the continuing raising of API motor oil standards over the years supports this theory.

    I am only trying to save you some money in the longrun by making my suggestions. Similarly you no doubt believe your advice will save us frequent changers some money and time now. To quote Paisan again, "to each his own".
  • cwmosercwmoser Member Posts: 227
    ... I checked last night and I too have the Steel Wheel - guess that prevents me from rotating the spare tire as a 5-tire rotation. But, then again, I wouldn't do the 5-tire rotation anyway.

    First time I had pulled off the hard cover from the spare tire -- not hard at all. The latch was not properly adjusted and I had to turn the screw all the way in to get a secure latch.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Also need to take off the spare tire to change the rear wiper-blade.

    -mike
  • conman2000conman2000 Member Posts: 158
    I am thinking about buying a rim from 800wheels.com because I want to do a 5 wheel rotation because of the TOD problem with tire height when using on street. Plus I think I might go with a different brand when these wears out anyway. I have heard some pros and cons on 4tire front to back vs. the 5 tire X rotation but since these are not directional tires, I don't think the X rotation will hurt anything.

    BTW, what tire pressure does everyone use? The manual states 30PSI front and 35 PSI back. The dealer had put over 40PSI in all tires?!? What is your choice and why? Thanks.

    Regards,
    Conway
  • wheels13wheels13 Member Posts: 51
    My 99 Trooper has the expansion section of the left Y pipe leaking. Took it to Midus and they are not able to replace just that part. I checked with St Charles Isuzu on the cost of a new Y pipe and it is $876.00. Have any of you got a less expensive fix then nearly $1,000.00 and that doesn't even include a new muffler system. If not ! goodby Trooper
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    37psi front
    42psi rear

    Best milage and handling. Increased MPG by about 1-2mpg on the highway.

    -mike
  • cwmosercwmoser Member Posts: 227
    A few months ago I checked mine after I drove my Trooper home and let sit for a few minutes -- thus not cold or hot and the tire pressure was 28psi. The reason I checked them was all the publicity with the Ford Explorers. I now run 35psi on all 4 but might just increase it as Paisan has done - 37psi front, and 42psi rear.
  • zman21zman21 Member Posts: 46
    what's the ride like if you put
    37 psi fr
    42 psa rr
    compared to manual's recommendation?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    When I first started with the higher pressures, I noticed an ever so slight increase in bumpiness in the ride quality. Once I put in the OME springs, and Rancho 9000 shocks, on setting 2 or setting 3, it was far smoother than the stock shocks with stock air-pressure.

    -mike
  • fiveharpersfiveharpers Member Posts: 53
    About a month after I got the Trooper, I got a new tire gauge and went and checked my tires for the first time. All 4 tires had 50 psi!!! I thought the new gauge was bad and retrieved an older one with the same results. I changed the front to 38 and 40 in the rear. It was hard to believe that I had been driving everywhere so over inflated for so long. I guess the dealer filled them that high, Or maybe the pressure is different in Japan.
  • centralcentral Member Posts: 51
    Just a word of warning for those reading about the higher tire pressures, not everyone is still running the factory supplied tires. Therefore while they might have the right pressure for their tires, my factory supplied ones have a maximum side wall listed pressure of 35psi. I would never go over the maximum listed on the tire.

    Another 2-bit opinion is that the "optimal" pressure is where the tread evenly touches the ground across its cross section . To check I have always added too much pressure to my cool tires and driven to a nearby empty parking lot. Once there I draw chalk lines across the tread and drive in a straight line for a couple hundred feet. I then get out and look at the marks. If the tire has too much air the chalk line will be worn away in the center and not at the edges. I then let out some air, reapply the chalk and repeat the process until I get a evenly worn off chalk line. Whether this is the truly the optimal process or just some bad ritual I have followed I don't know. I only know that my tires seem to wear very evenly.

    Also, FWIW, I am running 32psi front and 35 psi on my factory tires.
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    For the Bridgestone duelers, how did you know that they could handle the higher pressure, and aren't you concerned with too high a pressure producing a blowout?--just wondering. Does the tire max refer to an optimal for tire tread on the road. I've been running 35 rear and 32 front.
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    Is your trooper back on the road? How's it running?
  • conman2000conman2000 Member Posts: 158
    ?!? I don't think I have ever owned a car or truck that had two diff. PSI for front and rear with the same size tires. I am thinking about an even 35PSI all around as 30PSI seems low anyway.

    Opinions?

    Con
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    OK so far. The little I have driven it there seems to be no noticeable loss, the engine runs pretty much like new, it should...I can notice it as rest of the truck is a little broken in. I have been driving my altima lot lately due to work related travel. I went out tonight for a nice ride in the truck. The engine only has 100 miles on it so far. I may go for a small road trip tomorrow to help break it in properly. I don't think I should put any highway miles on until I least get 500 or maybe even a 1000?

    I also decided to order OME N65/N15 shocks and IPF 800 series lights. It may be a month though, many ARB products are back ordered.

    Does anyone know how to properly dispose of oil? Can you just take it to the landfill and pay someone to take it?
  • randers3randers3 Member Posts: 19
    When I got my new Trooper the tire pressure was 45 psi all the way around. When I called the dealer and ask why so high, they replied that they are sent with high pressure so they don't bounce so much on the car/truck haulers.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.