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Comments
-mike
DCH
-Ken
Dealer ordered parts for the leaks and asked us to bring it back and leave it for a a few hours. They will work on the rattle issue at the same time. They checked the computer but didn't find any codes. Also checked the exhaust and said everything was within factory specifications.
I had hoped they could knock out most or all of these issues in one visit but in fairness we didn't get the rest of the items on the service ticket in time for them to allocate enough time to get to everything. Hopefully we'll have better results on the next visit.
-mike
Other then the oil change.. the only other maintenance issues I have to report to the dealer are..
1. That Trans Slip issue that I wrote about in post #696.
2. A small leak in the front trans case or whatever it's called. I noticed small red spots underneath the front of the truck.
3. Rotate the tires.
4. Driver's side power window going down slow.
Other then that, the Troop is doing well.
Steve
-mike
I'm not concerned with the check engine light because I expected it to come on when the speedo stopped.
I'm assuming something is messed up with the electrical system connected to the speedo. Everything else is in excellent working order.
We took it in to the dealer and were told it has been happening with some of the 2001 Rodeo's and that simply changing the speedo does not work. Apparently they are looking for some type of short. I was told "engineers at Isuzu are looking into it right now and that I should hear from them in a couple days." I'm assuming I'll get it back sooner than later though because they gave me a 2002 Axiom to drive until they fix it (even though Isuzu typically will not give you a loaner, I guess with less than 330 miles on it, they made an exception). I'm just trying to find out if ANYONE else had had this problem, or has heard of anyone having this problem....
Even if you have a 1999 or 2000 model please let me know.
Thanks for any responses....
-mike
-mike
http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilters.html
The site also reviews oils.
"Synthetic motor oil" Jun 5, 2001 3:52am
I ordered filters from St Charles Isuzu at $4.xx. I found Mobil 1 at Target for $3.64 per qt, next best was Walmart at $4.17. My driving habits do not fall under any of the severe conditions so I will go with the Isuzu suggested oil change recommendations of 7500 miles.
I believe I read in a post somewhere that the Isuzu filters were made by Purolator but I have not confirmed this.
Anyway just wanted to put my opinion in also.
John ><>
Front and rear diff lube change, TOD fluid level check, oil change and chassis lube (I havent finished the last as I don't know where all the Zerks are. Anyway, I wrote up a short procedure and put it at:
http://www.suvtech.com/discus/
under Trooper DIY tips.
If you know where those Zerk fittings are, let me know! I saw two on the drive shaft, that's it!
Pete
-mike
Cheers,
Con
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=592128066
Thanks, Troopin.
Some filters can go over 10,000 miles and many synthetics can go well over 12,000 miles between changes.
Some manufacturers have 15,000 mile changes now, Mercedes, being one. Depends how much stock you own in Pennzoil/Quaker State
-mike
I hope you are not relying on looks to tell you that your oil is ok. That is going to cost you, or the unlucky next owner, big time. Oil is a very complex product that changes chemical properties dramatically upon exposure to heat and time.
Like Paisan said, and especially at the DIY price of under $10, changing your oil and filter frequently is cheap insurance. At least these are my 2-bit opinions.
Analysis shows that the oil remains good at the point I sample, basically when I change it. So, at this point I have absolutely no qualms about going 12,000 miles between changes with a quality synthetic and good filter. Even Consumer reports says 5,000 minimum for dino oil. The people professing 3000 changes are living on past experiences when oils and engines simply were not built as well and the marketing hype from Pennzoil and Quaker State adds to the confusion as they would be financially hurt to a very large degree if people even went to a 5000 mile interval. Sure $10 is cheap, now, the hassle of maintaining 5 cars like I do and how much is hassle, in today's crazy world, worth!!! Whether you do it yourself or bring it in every 3000 miles it is a huge "HASSLE"
Anyhow, for me $40/2-3mo per car won't break the bank, it's the price I pay for driving. Beats a $3000-$4000 engine job down the road.
-mike
As to your claims about "living on past experiences", I fully accept this "criticism". I believe in learning by the past mistakes of others. I also believe, that contrary to your assertion, today's closer tolerance/higher revving engines are even harder on motor oils. If nothing else the continuing raising of API motor oil standards over the years supports this theory.
I am only trying to save you some money in the longrun by making my suggestions. Similarly you no doubt believe your advice will save us frequent changers some money and time now. To quote Paisan again, "to each his own".
First time I had pulled off the hard cover from the spare tire -- not hard at all. The latch was not properly adjusted and I had to turn the screw all the way in to get a secure latch.
-mike
BTW, what tire pressure does everyone use? The manual states 30PSI front and 35 PSI back. The dealer had put over 40PSI in all tires?!? What is your choice and why? Thanks.
Regards,
Conway
42psi rear
Best milage and handling. Increased MPG by about 1-2mpg on the highway.
-mike
37 psi fr
42 psa rr
compared to manual's recommendation?
-mike
Another 2-bit opinion is that the "optimal" pressure is where the tread evenly touches the ground across its cross section . To check I have always added too much pressure to my cool tires and driven to a nearby empty parking lot. Once there I draw chalk lines across the tread and drive in a straight line for a couple hundred feet. I then get out and look at the marks. If the tire has too much air the chalk line will be worn away in the center and not at the edges. I then let out some air, reapply the chalk and repeat the process until I get a evenly worn off chalk line. Whether this is the truly the optimal process or just some bad ritual I have followed I don't know. I only know that my tires seem to wear very evenly.
Also, FWIW, I am running 32psi front and 35 psi on my factory tires.
Opinions?
Con
I also decided to order OME N65/N15 shocks and IPF 800 series lights. It may be a month though, many ARB products are back ordered.
Does anyone know how to properly dispose of oil? Can you just take it to the landfill and pay someone to take it?