Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

sdavito

I used to think that the proper tire pressure to use was what was stamped on the outside of the tire. After my wife purchased a Miata, I checked the pressure & found only 26 psi. The tires had 35 psi stamped on them. I called a couple of tire stores, and they all said the proper inflation is what is listed on the driver side door jam – 26 psi. I’m sure that if the tires were over inflated by a couple of pounds, the ride might get a little bumpier, but the tires would be OK, although I wouldn’t ever consider inflating them to 35 psi.

fiveharpers

I know our Wal-mart has a large disposal tank behind there auto shop that anyone is allowed to use to recycle old oil.

john303

OK there was oil on the 1) plastic spark plug caps/inserts 2) the ceramic area on the plugs and 3) the plug threads. but the diodes were not fouled on any of the plugs. Some where black instead of grey but not fouled.

The oil was most evident towards the rear of the engine on the right side (facing forward in drivers seat).

There isn't an oil leak under the car or down the side of the engine. Because the plug holes are so deep into the valve cover/cylinder head, I think its just a valve cover gasket. At least I hope it is.

If you guys can give me any suggestions or speak from experience, that would be great. peace and have a good weekend. I don't know where you guys are but its beer thirty.. here in calif.

sbcooke

I found a service shop down the street that took my old oil for free. I assume they recycle, there was a tank under the parking lot.

radman6

In Washington State we have several options to dispose of used motor oil. We can take it to a landfill or waste to energy facility and leave it at the hazardous waste collection site. We can also take it to most of the service stations and auto parts dealers. I think there may be a law in Washington that if you sell motor oil you also have to participate in the recycling program. I think most of the recycling places in town will take it as well.

paisan

The PSI that they list in the manual, is the optimal pressure that gives you a nice soft ride + med-handling, + med-gas milage. It's basically a compromise. I've been running mine with the higher PSI w/o problems for close to 20K miles. I believe the higher pressure in the rear is to help stabilize any loads you might put in it.

-mike

gpm5

I saw a '99 trooper engine with the oil like you describe. I don't know where it could come from except for maybe past a gasket near the top (valve cover gasket?).

carolinawahoo

Simple as this. First thing in the morning during the summer, drop the pressure 6-8 lbs. below tire max. Test the tire after driving to work, running an errand, picking up the kids, etc. If the pressure is within 3 lbs of the tire max (but not higher than the tire max), you're in good shape. Of course this will vary from region to region and season to season. My Rodeo has a 35 psi max, from the manufacturer it came with 35 psi. I dropped it to 29 psi, went to work, and tested the pressure when I got there. It was at 33-34 psi. The change made the ride a little smoother, but I'm sure it will slightly hurt gas mileage. However, smoother ride=less wear and tear on the Rodeo and my rump.

paisan

The Max Tire Pressure is for stone-cold tires. As well as any tire readings. You should always take tire readings before driving anywhere, this will be the most accurate TP you can get. I would never run with less TP than the Mfg suggested, because you'll end up over-heating the tires and have a Ford Exploder situation on your hands.

-mike

gpm5

Yeah, I'll probably run 35 all the way around.

carolinawahoo

The max tire pressure on my tire is 35 psi. I suggest if you think that's the max "cold tire" pressure, you better have a cell phone so someone can come pick you up when you blow one out on a 95 degree day. That is, if you don't get a concussion from bouncing around first. The manufacturers suggested "cold pressure" rating for my tire is 26 psi (on the drivers door), with a 35 psi max (on the tire). That means on an average temp day in an average climate, 26 psi is suggested for "cold tires." My tire came from the manufacturer with 35 psi "cold temp." That equalled a very rough ride home considering the psi was near 40 after 10 minutes of driving. Therefore, since temps have been around 85-90 in NC this week, I dropped the "cold pressure" to nearly the recommended 26 psi (I run about 28-29 psi this time of year, 26 in July and August). Then when fall rolls around, and definately winter, I'll adjust my "cold tire" pressure to 32 psi so I don't end up running on flats. Sorry for any confusion my last post might have caused. My suggestion was that during the summer, everyone should check there tire pressure after driving the car for a while. If it exceeds the max tire pressure written on the tire after 15 minutes of driving, you gotta let some out. This rule does not apply in the winter, ubless you live in Miami. I just thought it would be helpful if everyone knew that the 35 psi markings on the tire is the maximum pressure the tire should take, hold, cold, medium whatever. Not the maximum "cold tire" pressure. Firestone accidents would be like an appitizer if that were the case. I've been to multiple sites for Rodeos and the one thing I see over and over is the complaints about the rough ride on the highway. I think the big problem is the misconception of what maximum tire pressure really means.

paisan

Well I've always run my tires cold TP @ near max TP on the side-wall and have never blown one. Do whatever works for you. But the reason the Firestones came apart in the first place is because the tire-pressure was TOO LOW, not TOO HIGH. The lower the TP, the more tire hits the road, the more tire on the road, the more friction, more friction = more heat, more heat = faster tire breakdown. So if you want to follow the manufacturer's suggested TP just like all those Exploder people who DIED, go ahead...

-mike

paisan

Every single person I've spoken to about tire pressures, be they engineers, mechanics, etc. Always tell me to check the TP only when the car has been sitting for hours w/o driving. Why? Well if you make 10 left turns on your way to check the TP, your right side tires are going to be warmer than the left, this will lead them to appear to have a higher TP, so you will let more air out of them than out of the left side tires, leaving an un-balanced TP left to right. Now if you have a TP Guage that also has a temp guage built in (and they do sell them, but mostly racers use them) then you can check the warm TP all day long. Funny side note, my uncle's Acura TLS manual states that the tires will loose up to 2psi/month in normal use. I thought that was interesting.

-mike

gpm5

As far as I know, the max tire pressure always referred to the TP when 'cold' i.e. before the vehicle was run. It has always supposedly been a no-no to check TP after running your vehicle. Of course everyone needs to go a few blocks to the gas station therefore they may not always be cold. Also, guages make a huge difference if not calibrated correctly. I don't see any problem with cold 35 psi--that is the tire spec. Some tire specs, like my trailer tires are 60 psi cold. Used to be that tires were always 32 psi on the sidewall, about 20 yrs ago.

Also, if you ever move to a really cold climate like WI, never air up your tires when the temperature is -15 deg outside. You'll freeze the valve with water/ice and lose your air real quick.

central

I too have heard the explanation noted by Paisan about the footprint increasing and therefore friction increasing. I personally think this explanation is baloney. I think the real reason is that the sidewalls flex much more at low pressures. This flexing is what heats up as well as mechanically stresses the tire. It is also the cause of increased rolling resistance/poorer mileage at lower pressures.

To agree with Paisan, the max tire pressure on the sidewall is for cold tires. At least that is what I have always been told and read on several tire manufacturer's websites.

paisan

You are correct, the reason that the footprint increases, is because the side-walls are flexing. When the side-walls are not as stiff, aka flexing, with less PSI, it puts more rubber on the road, so it's probably a combination of the side-walls flexing + additional rubber on the road.

-mike

lugnut5

There seem to be a few people on the board here that are following a few old wives tales. For one, using Firestone and Ford as an example is a joke. Isuzu is a different vehicle, and like all other vehicles the recommended tire pressure is always less than that maximum posted on the tire. The comparison is a joke. The correct interpretation (for the most part) was the one made by carolinawohoo. Never ever ever fill your tires to the maximum pressure during the summer, they should always be filled when cold, and that pressure should be no where near that posted on the tire unless you live in Northern Canada or somewhere else that's cold ALL THE TIME. Check the door of the car, use that pressure during the summer. Run closer to the maximum on the tire during the winter. Max means MAX. It can be dangerous to run with the tires maxed out. Sure, it won't kill you to have more pressure than the max by a few pounds, but my God, your pressure would be over 40 pounds if you filled it to the max when cold then took it out on a highway on a 100 degree day. How do I know this miscellenous tie info? 3 fun years of working at a Goodyear shop in college...I heard all the BS misconceptions. P.S. Firestone does suck, but so does Ford.

armtdm

On a 35 max PSI I have run 33 for years and on a 44 PSI max I run 42. The tires wear better, sides do not wear early like they do at 28 PSI, and handle better. The pressure is always checked when "COLD" and when hot it will exceed the max on the sidewall but that is known and accounted for by the manufacturer which is why they say "maximum pressure when cold". remember, pressure does differ in winter and summer but you are completely safe to go up to 35 PSI when tires are cold!!!!!

gpm5

Check your lugnuts. I hope during your summer job you were not filling tires at 26 psi. I might agree that 32 psi is fine but don't go on the extreme low side trying to compensate for a hot day. Firestone tires did blow/peel/separate because the tire pressures cold were at 26 psi on hot roads in hot weather under high loads.--not to mention faulty/low quality class C tires as well.

wlbrown9

Direct quote from Rubber Manufacturers Assoc.

1. When you check the air pressure, make sure the tires are cool - meaning they are not hot from driving even a mile. (NOTE: If you have to drive a distance to get air, check and record the tire pressure first and add the appropriate air pressure when you get to the pump. It is normal for tires to heat up and the air pressure inside to go up as you drive. Never "bleed" or reduce air pressure when tires are hot.)

http://www.rma.org/tiresafety/tiresafety.html

I would suggest that this site has pretty good info....some of you might want to investigate the info on this site to see if you have been operating on valid assumptions or not.

Bill

BTW, I have no interest in the site or tire or rubber industry. (But do own a 2000 Trooper LS 2/wd :-) )

atltrooper1

I have often wondered what the official answer is for the following, I have my own ideas but would love to hear what others think. When discussing P rated tires of the same size some come with a max pressure of 35 listed on the side, others have a max psi of 44. The max weight rating is the same, the door sticker for recommended pressure is the never amended. What gives? I am confident the 'right answer' is to run a quick calculation and determine the correct psi for the 44psi tire based on raising the recommended pressure by the % difference between 35psi and 44psi.
What do you think?
Chris L.

pinoy99

For more tire info visit http://www.4x4mag.co.uk/novfeatures/novtyres.htm

armtdm

Usually only found on high speed rated tires from S-Z rated will have 44 PSI max. Not always but rare to find a 44 PSI on a Ford Focus, Corolla etc.

paisan

10-11pm EST. Come chat with other Isuzu Owners. If you are an owner, or prospective owner, you don't want to miss this opportunity to get in touch live with other's who have real world experience.

http://www.edmunds.com/chat/isuzuchat.html

-mike

dchopp

There has been a lot of talk over the past year about proper tire pressure. Some agree and some don't. However, one thing that is true is that the tire pressure you inflate your tires too is only as correct as the accuracy of the tire gauge you are using. I have collected 37 tire gauges from various people, some cheap, some expensive, some digital, some old and some new. I have taken them to work(aircraft maintenance hanger)and I'm in the process of comparing them to a calibrated standard with an accuracy of 0.5%. The results so far are unbelievable. Are you sure you have 29, 30, or 35 lbs of air in your tires? I will finish up the test next week and publish the report.
Until then.
DCH

conman2000

Very good point. I have bought some cheapo meters(both analog and digital) and some pricy ones as well plus one for my air tank. From what I can gather, the cheap digital(under 10bucks) don't work well and seem very off. Some pencil cheapos work well but seem to be a hit or miss. So far the most acurate Digital I found was one from Brookstone. I don't have a "tester" but what I did was use a couple together and see which ones were closer to each other and took a seat of the pants guess that those were closer to acurate. Overall, the Analog dial ones seem to me more acurate than pencils. Stick away from Digital unless you spend over 20bucks. I currently use the Brookstone Digital because I broke the Analog dial one I really liked because I dropped it(I don't remember the brand but I think I paid 18 bucks for it).

Cheers,
Con

cwmoser

I created a spreadsheet of the operating costs of my 1999 Isuzu Trooper over it's first 25,000 miles. I was surprised that my fuel economy averaged 17mpg, and many times its range exceeded 350 miles before refueling. Well, at least I found the data interesting.

http://www.isuzu.8k.com/First-25k-miles.htm

paisan

Damn, that is a great spreadsheet. I wish I was that accurate with my cars. Great stuff. I'm gonna put a link to that on http://isuzu-suvs.com

-mike

cwmoser

Thanks Paisan,
It's the first time I kept detailed records on a vehicle. I saved the spreadsheet out of Excel via:
File->Save As Webpage.

One entry surprised me after reading all the discussion about gas tank capacity:
02-Aug-00 12,808 22.3 $30.90 16.5 367.0

I put in 22.3 gallons!! -- Wasn't a whole lot left in the tank. Maybe the stated capacity in the Trooper manual of 22.5 gal is the "usable capacity" -- I think that is the terminology they use with private aircraft.

paisan

http://isuzu-suvs.com has some updates. New in the site today:

link to cost of ownership web-page found in FAQ section.

Writeup on laptop computer stand construction in the How-to section.

-mike

dchopp

Everyone talks about tire pressure but just how accurate are those gauges you use to measure tire pressure. I started out with a collection of 38 tire gauges (loaned to me)
Various sizes and shapes, some new and some very old. Also we tested some digital
gauges some cheap the others expensive. Our test was conducted at our aircraft maintenance shop and against a highly accurate calibrated air pressure standard. I took each gauge and measured three air pressures consisting of 25, 35 and 45 lbs.
All the testing is done and the results in Parts will be published at various times.
Part one consisted of the most popular tire gauge called the pocket or pen type gauge which cost anywhere from $ 1.00 to $ 2.50 range and they have a white plastic dial reading. I tested 5 new ones (Victor, Monkey Grip etc) that were purchased at nationwide chain and auto stores. Each of the new ones read entirely different pressures with the worst being as much as 6 lbs. lower at 25 lbs. While an exact duplicate gauge read 3lbs. lower at 25 lbs. The new ones where mostly 3 lbs lower at 25lbs but improved at the higher pressures of 35 and 45 lbs. There averages where about 2 lbs. at the higher pressures. I tried exercising the dial a few times by pulling it in and out and taking the readings again and some improved by as much as a lb. at the lower reading. I then test older gauges of this type 3 to 10 years and the results were worse in some cases. It seams the older the gauge the lower the accuracy and they are the worst at the lower pressure. Some were off as much as 8 lbs. By the way all of the gauges we tested read low except one and that had an obvious defect. I took the older gauges and sprayed the dial with WD-40 and exercised it about 10 times and then I went back and redid the test and improved the readings to that of a new gauge. One gauge was 7 lbs lower at 35lbs and after my operation the gauge improved to about 2.5 lbs lower. One gauge that was 10 years old had better accuracy than one that was 3 years old, but generally the older the gauge, the lower the accuracy of gauges of this type. You get what you pay for.
In conclusion its best to add 2 or 3 lbs of more air to your tires if you use this kind of gauge. If you want 30 lbs put in the air till your pen type gauge reads 32 or 33 lbs. and don't forget to exercise the dial a few times before checking the tire pressure. On the older ones spray the dial with WD-40 or some silicone lube and exercise the dial about 10 times.
Part 2 deals with more expensive gauges with some surprising results until then-- by
DCH

paisan

looking forward to the results!

-mike

central

Great work and I too am eagerly awaiting the results.

However, I am confused about your writeup so far. Namely in the first part you state "by the way all of the gauges we tested read low except one". You then note that exercising the dial and treating with WD-40 makes the gauges read higher with one "7 lbs lower at 35lbs and after my operation the gauge improved to about 2.5 lbs lower". This makes intuitive sense that after the treatment the slide will move easier and extend further thus correctly indicating more pressure.

Then in the wrapup section you note that "if you want 30 lbs put in the air till your pen type gauge reads 32 or 33 lbs". This is where I get confused. If as you noted in the first section the gauges ALL (but one) read LOW then wouldn't I put in 27 or 28 lbs to actually get 30 (i.e. the gauge is reading BELOW the actual pressure)?

sbcooke

I think consistent is the most important. If you get down low and look at the tires, you can tell if the tread evenly hits the pavement. Also, once you get a gauge calibrated, and you know how it reads, you should be able to set your pressure, fairly well.

sbcooke

Being home for the first time (more than 24 hours) since I took in water, I decided to "officially" locate the air intake. It is right behind the driver's side turn signal. about the top 2" of the signal. Water has to be pretty high to get in it. It must have been a combination of too much speed and a hole more than a few feet deep to get water in it.

dchopp

Sorry. What I am thinking and what I type sometimes comes out as two different ideas. What I meant to say that on the average the gauges read about 2 lb. short as compared to the known ref. air pressure. Therefore at 30lbs your gauge will indicate approx. 28lbs. Disrequard the sentance on adding more air. Thanks central for bringing that to my attention.
DCH

kronk

Hi all. I’m new to the board and to the Trooper world. I bought a 2001 LS a couple of months ago that I love except for a few minor annoyances that I’d like to know if I should approach the dealer about, or if they are just something that is typical of Troopers. My previous cars have been Pathfinders so this might just be a case of my being used the characteristics of those cars.

First, at about 2200 rpm I hear what to me sounds like a rattle. The intensity seems to vary, though it seems worse when it’s cold. It’s not distinct enough where it is obviously coming from something that has vibrated loose. It’s hard to separate the noise from the engine noise itself. Is this just a characteristic of the engine? When I mentioned this to the dealer when I brought it in for another problem they later called and told me that the mechanic tried a Trooper in the lot and said that my car was quieter than most. That could be true, but comments like that (“you should be happy with what you got because it could be worse”) always makes me a little leary.

Second, at speeds greater than about 25mph there is a “scraping” noise coming from somewhere under the dashboard or from the gear box. It’s tough to pinpoint. At first I though it was just vent noise but the noise is always present.

Third, I’ve recently noticed that my car sounds like a quieter version of one of those 4wd’s with the huge tires that you can hear coming from a mile away. I’ve got the original tires (Bridgestone Duelers) that are passenger tires, and I wouldn’t expect to hear so much tire noise. This sounds more like what I would expect LT tires to sound like. Is this tire noise or do I have a bigger problem I should worry about?

Finally, I’m constantly finding that when I shut the rear doors, they don’t close all the way. I don’t know how many mornings I’ve found the interior light on because one of the rear doors is still open. It doesn’t seem to be a problem with the front doors. It could just be a difference between the Trooper and what I’m used to witht the Pathfinders.

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

conman2000

Hi,
New 01 Trooper LS owner myself. I think I might have answers to some of your questions.

1. Rattle. Mine rattles also. Possible link to mine is a heat shield on the muffler. Mine only rattles when hitting the gas hard. Might not be the same as what you are saying though.

2. scraping? I don't have that problem but you might be refering to the noisy brake pedal which appears to be a spring which squeaks(I have it also). I looked at the brake pedal and can't figure out how it squeaks. Your noise might be different like something loose like a loose wire? Did you get a aftermarket alarm? maybe the box is loose(just a thought)?

3. Tire/Road noise. Funny you say the Trooper is noisy as I just read a review somewhere and saw a rave on how quiet the interior is since it has a flat windshield and big tires. Well, the pathfinder does have less agressive tires so they should be quieter. Comming from a car before the Trooper, I have not found it to be a noisy SUV. I guess it is what you are use to. Maybe your tire pressure is low/high? My last car had out of round tires which thumped down the road. They were replaced under warr. as they suspected that when they put it on the semi-trailer, they crank the straps down really tight. That is why Isuzu puts more air PSI in the tires for transport(Mine had 42PSI).

I have not gone back to the dealer to get those things checked out as I only have 2k miles on mine so maybe next month I will get these things looked at and let you know.

Cheers,
Con
01 Trooper LS 4x4

paisan

I agree with conman's statements, here are some additional items:

1) Dashboard Noise: Could be the fan you are hearing if you have the climate control in the auto setting. Could aslo be the fuel line slapping the firewall (there is a recall on 00s, not sure about 01s)

2) Tire noise. If you drive in TOD, you will hear a faint whine, if it's a loud whine, it means one tire is significantly larger or smaller in diameter than the others. Also tires need to be rotated religiously at no greater than 7500 mile intervals.

-mike

paisan

Welcome to the owner's club. Be sure to check out http://isuzu-suvs.com and send us a pic for the gallery. We also have chats here on Edmunds on thurs nights and 24x7 if you go to the chat page on http://isuzu-suvs.com you can find a link to your AOLIM chat.

-mike

beer47

Nice job on the page you put together; lots of good info in one place. Quick question, after reading the oil filter section I wonder if I should use after market filters or use the Isuzu ones. Which are you using? I use Mobile 1 for oil.

paisan

I'm using purolator cause that's what my local oil change place uses with my mobil 1 oil changes. I'm thinking of picking up a mobil 1 filter next time i get it done though. I think the stock ones are purolator re-badged as Isuzu.

Thanks for the compliment, if you have any links to add, or pics for the gallery feel free to e-mail me.

-mike

pat_pending

As a supplement to some of the answers:

1. The Rattle - I and many others have this RPM-specific rattle; mine occured only when very cold. While Paisan and others have suggested that it could be traced to a fuel line hitting the firewall, an explanation came from a poster a couple of months ago who said it was a loose bracket up under the dashboard, approximately behind the instrument cluster. Since nobody has confirmed the fuel line problem, I believe the bracket may be a more likely candidate. I have not confirmed this,

2. Scraping noise - I think Kronk is describing what we all call the "rewinding tape" noise, which comes up from below the shifter. If so, there is nothing that will take care of this minor annoyance, and you will simply have to tune it out.

Hope this helps.

-Ken

sbcooke

I had a rattle the first winter I had the truck. Only below 40 degrees, while accelerating and for 15 minutes until the truck warmed up? Some dry gas later in the year and I never heard it again? Maybe coincidence? Maybe condensation in the fuel lines? Maybe whatever bracket that was loose settled? But the rattle was similar to those coming from inside the dashboard.

paisan

Sean,
Maybe it was cause you had a different engine back then? )))

-mike

bluedevils

I have the same difficulty with our 98 Trooper. My guess is that "they all do that." Both my wife and I frequently don't apply enough force to close the rear passenger doors fully. It isn't really a problem, but it *is* something you need to remember to do. Also, I've left the dome light on for 8-12 hours and the Trooper has always started right up (no dead battery).

dchopp

Does anyone know the size wrench or socket that fits the oil pan plug on the 3.2L V6 1996 Rodeo. A 7/8th feels sloppy so it must be metric.
DCH

mtrionfo

At least that's what it is on the 3.2L SOHC in my 95 Trooper. Safe bet it's also 22mm on your Rodeo.

Rgds, Marty
95 Trooper LS

waltenberger

1) Scraping noise over 25mph: I had a scraping noise on my 2000 that turned out to be a loose heater core (the core sits against the firewall at the passenger side). Dealer remounted it and no more noise.

2) Doors: Both my passenger doors would not close as easily as the driver side doors. I also walked away once in a while with a dome light on because I was use to lightly closing the driver side doors and forgot about having to shut the passenger doors harder. Put up with it for the first 2 months I owned the vehicle, then took it to the dealer. They adjusted the offending doors and now all of them close with light pressure.

Both of the above procedures were taken care of within a couple of hours, so I would definitely take your Trooper in and make use of that warranty.

Ben

paisan

Yep mine did that too. They still do to an extent. Usually I use my remote to lock up the doors, and if it senses that your door is open it will give the un-armed warning. I have left on the dome light overnight w/o a problem in the morning as well.

-mike