BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

shipo

Back in 1995, when I was living in the NYC area, I leased a new 1995 VR6 Passat GLX, which had fairly low profile tires. Over the next couple of years I found myself replacing about three tires per year, and of the roughly twenty tires that I had on it, only one lived to old age.

Tired of the need to be constantly having yet another tire mounted on my car, I opted for a 1999 328i sans the SP. Those higher profile tires, which were of the All-Season variety were still going strong when I turned the car in at lease end, 50,000 miles later.

When it came time to replace the 328i, all would have continued along the same path had it not been for our fellow member Brave1Heart. He and I swapped cars for a day and a half, I got his 2001 325i SP 5-Speed and he got my 1999 328i 5-Speed with the standard suspension. One thing quickly became very apparent to me, each of the two cars was "half of a car", mine had the power, his had the grip. As such, with my 2002 530i I made damn sure that I checked off the SP option.

So, how many low profile performance tires did I destroy on the 5er? None. I opted to buy a "Minus 1" winter wheel and tire package from TireRack for the colder (and bumpier/pot holier) months. The good news was that I didn't destroy any of the winter tires either. To my way of thinking, the $607 that I spent on the winter package ($1,007 that I paid for them new minus the $400 that I sold them for) saved me at least $700 due to the fact that I didn't need to replace the OEM rubber over the course of my lease (almost but not quite according to the end of lease inspector). Assuming that I would most likely have left at least two of those OEM tires on the LIE were it not for my winter set and you can see that the winter tire set saved me at least twice their cost (i.e. Spend $1,000 before the first winter to prevent spending a total of $2,000 later on).

Best Regards,
Shipo

gordonwd

Shipo, do you realize if you look out through that big glass-covered opening in front of you (in technical terms, a "windshield"), that you can actually see potholes in front of you and use your excellent, responsive BMW steering to avoid them? What do you guys do -- aim for the biggest chuckholes you can find in order to torture-test your tires and rims?

Anyway, I'm with you on this all the way. When I get my new 17" upgrade next month for my 325i, I will be keeping my stock 16" wheels & tires for use in winter. Since the original all-season tires still have half their tread life to go, that's what I will use for the next couple of winter seasons before switching to dedicated winter tires.

But my main aim was to have a more forgiving wheel/tire combo on the car during the Michigan winters.

I also found out that a local Euro-specialist shop has a pretty good deal where they will not only swap your wheels twice a year, but also store the alternate set in their facilities. That might be worth it to me, as room for storing a full set of wheels & tires would be hard to find around my place!

shipo

"Shipo, do you realize if you look out through that big glass-covered opening in front of you (in technical terms, a "windshield"), that you can actually see potholes in front of you and use your excellent, responsive BMW steering to avoid them? What do you guys do -- aim for the biggest chuckholes you can find in order to torture-test your tires and rims?" ;-)

There was this pothole once (actually lots of times) that was one of those disappearing / reappearing potholes situated in the worst possible place at the intersection of 11th Avenue and the West Side Highway. One rainy night heading down 11th toward the Holland Tunnel I stopped at the light at the West Side Highway and looked and looked and looked for any evidence of the hole. "Apparently," I thought to myself, "NYC's finest have fixed it once again." Green light, off I go. WHAM! I hit that hole (which was full of water and completely invisible due to the glare of the street lights) so hard that I destroyed the tire, the rim, the strut and even the rubber rebound bumper of my 1995 Passat GLX.

So much for using that big glass covered opening to its fullest. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

dacs1

I'm new to this board and sorry but where is the link for "Help Me Choose?" I've been trying to decide between a 2003 325xi or a 2003 Mercedes C240 4matic. Can anyone give me some feedback or send me to the correct place?
Deepest thanks :confuse:

willg1961

I have a 2006 325xi which had an odd clicking sound in the steering column from day one. The dealer replaced it and two things happened. The cruise control stem was stuck and I almost got in an accident when I used, and second the click was still present. I am now waiting for a part from Germany that the technician believes will fix the problem. In total, I will be out of my car for over two weeks. I have been provided a Toyota Rav 4 as a loner, but this has been a real drag. My question is whether I should have any worries about the vehicle once they say they've fixed it. Also, if this is a problem that still is not fixed after this long wait, what are my options? Finally, am I entitled to anything from BMW for being out of my leased car for 2-3 weeks? Thanks.

laurasrem

Hi Guys,

I have a 2002 BMW 323 with the alarm fob built into the key, I have 3 buttons on the key which consist of the BMW Badge which is marked unlock for Unlocking the doors, a trunk release button and a button which just seems to turn on the lights in the car,
If I ever was in the situation where I needed to activate the alarm siren which button would I press to activate the alarm siren and keep the doors locked?

Thanks Laura

gordonwd

I'm not sure if my '04 325 key is the same, but on mine the center "badge" button LOCKS the car, there's a trunk release button, and the other one (marked with a large arrow) UNlocks the car. From your description, what button locks it if the badge key just unlocks it?

Anyway, on mine the trunk release button activates the panic alarm if you hold it down for a couple of seconds. Pressing the Unlock button stops the alarm.

bdr127

If the year of the car is 2002, then it should be a 325i (not 323i -- the last year of the 323i was 2000).

Does the key look like this?:


If so, then the center BMW roundel is the LOCK button. The button with the arrow on it, closest to the metal key part, is the UNLOCK. The button with the truck-lid open, furthest from the metal key part, is the TRUNK OPEN.

Note that the 3-series does NOT come with a factory-installed alarm. (It has an ignition immobilizer -- you can't start the car without the key physically being there.) You would have had to had a BMW Center install the alarm system. If that is the case, then the panic alarm should be activated by holding the trunk-open button for 4-5 seconds....

laurasrem

Yes it is a 325i not a 323i (sorry) and that is the exact key I have, so I assume that if I need to set off the panic alarm I just keep the trunk release button pressed for a few seconds until the alarm sounds (will the trunk remain locked when doing this?)

thanks for you help

bdr127

Did you install the alarm system at your BMW Center?

laurasrem

The alarm was installed by the manufacturer, it came with the car

bdr127

The alarm was installed by the manufacturer, it came with the car

What I was trying to say before was that BMW did not and does not install a factory "honking/beeping" alarm on the 3-series. The 5's and 7's have one, but not the 3-series. The only way your 325i has an alarm system is if you (or, if the car is used, the previous owner) installed it through a BMW Center service department.

canman1971

My 2000 323i has 58500 miles on it and I'm coming up on a service that I am told cost around $600-700. So my question is, how important is this service. Money is a little tight right now, I'm a new teacher along with my wife, and was wondering about the importance as far as maintaining it. I had an oil change at 53,000 or so. Any comments, suggestions are greatly appreciated.

bdr127

Well, there's a reason why manufacturers recommend service intervals.... I'm sure money is one reason, but I'm sure the other reason is to keep the car running well! Seriously, though, if you want the car to keep running well, then you should do the service. There isn't a car-type-of-person (people like myself) out there that would recommend skipping a service interval....

You might also trying posting this question on the "Maintenance & Repair Costs" forum.

div2

What service is due? Inspection II?
Are you a member of BMW CCA? Most shops offer a 10-25 percent discount to members.
Are you using a dealer or an independent shop? I've never paid more than $500 for an Inspection II at my local BMW indie shop.
BMWs don't tolerate neglect. If money is tight, I suggest that you pick up an E46 Bentley and learn to maintain the car yourself.

canman1971

No, I don't believe I'm a member. How do you go about becoming one? I plan on doing it. I just like to get feedback from people who have had it done. I just seems like a lot for an Inspection II, which is what it it. And don't fear BMW lovers, I will never neglect my car. Does it matter if you go to a dealer or if you go to a shop where they work on them all the time? I had a rear coil spring and control arms replace from an independent shop and he did a good job at much less of a price.

div2

Check here for information on CCA. Some dealers provide good service at a reasonable price,some don't. Most metropolitan areas have one or more independent shops that specialize in BMW service; there are three in my vicinity. A good indie shop can perform an Inspection II with no problem.

kominsky

Your dealership should be able to get you a copy of the Service Maintenance Checklist. You can look it over and determine which steps you'd feel comfortable tackling yourself and which ones you wouldn't. I basically did all of the fluid changes, filter replacements, etc myself and let the dealership (a good independant shop would be better, but I know of none in my area) do the inspection stuff. My total $$ layout was right around $200.

mattg

Picked up new 330i a couple weeks ago, very much enjoying it. However, after first thinking I'd get used to it, am growing to dislike the dealer's fake-German-crest decal affixed next to the rear license plate; prefer less-is-more and am not into free advertising. It's a hassle to take back to dealer to have them remove; can anyone recommend a good product that will help get the decal off without damaging the finish. I realize this is not a BMW 3-series-specific question, but figured I'd get good (and sympathetic) recommendations from this forum. Thanks in advance.

Anal-retentively yours,

kominsky

When I took the stickers off the tank of my VFR, I used a hairdryer to soften the glue and peel the sticker off. I then used WD-40 and a soft cloth to clean up the residue.

Here's someone elses method...
http://www.ehow.com/how_17655_remove-stickers-car.html

gordonwd

On the subject of sticker removal, how about the airbag-safety stickers on the visors? Those seem pretty thin, and I'd hate to leave any ugly residue on something as visible as that on the inside.

div2

Some brave souls have removed the visors from the car and then used a product called "Goof-Off" to soften the labels so that they can be removed. I've heard it also causes the visor material to wrinkle somewhat, but they return to normal after a few hours...

bluehens93

I have 2000 323i w/ 62K miles (purchased used in 2003). In the first 2 years, I've only had to replace the tires and the brakes. But in the last 3 months, I've had to replace the Exhaust Cam Position Sensor, the Intake Cam Position Sensor, the coolant overflow tank (cracked), Power Steering Hose, and the Alternator Belt Tensioner. I baby this car and get all of the recommended service.

Are these problems normal for a BMW or do I just have a bad car?

Any feedback from an experienced BMW owner would be appreciated!

sunilb

Sensors go bad for no apparent reason (ie, they generally fail before the part they are "detecting" fails). Not sure what could be done here (I've had the same sensor fail twice in less than 15K miles).
Not sure about the other items.

div2

I replaced belt tensioner pulleys on my 3er at 80K and on my 5er at 130K. Not THAT unusual. As for the P/S hose, was it leaking from below the P/S fluid reservoir? In many cases the hose is blamed for a leak when in fact one or more of the crimped-on hose clamps have loosened up. Replacing the old clamps with new screw-on clamps usually cures the problem.

bluehens93

Not sure about the location of the leak. I think I need to ask more questions when this stuff happens.

What yr is your 3er?

div2

What yr is your 3er?

It is a 1995 318ti Club Sport; I'm the original owner. At 10 years, four months, and 101,000 miles my ti has needed the following non-scheduled maintenance:
O2 sensor(recall)
both fuel sending units(warranty)
alarm module(warranty)
1 set of front brake pads
2 serpentine belts(replaced as a precaution)
2 idler pulleys
1 timing chain tensioner(replaced as a precaution)
3 sets of W or Z rated tires
1 battery(replaced at ten years, one month)
4 sets of wiper blades
5 exterior bulbs
The car has seen more than a few drivers schools and autocrosses and is driven in every kind of weather except ice and snow. It's a rare drive when I don't wind it to the redline at least three or more times. No other car I've owned comes close to the reliability of my Club Sport.

dhanley

I must the the luckiest BMW owner around.

I have a '97 328i with 112K miles. I've replaced 1 set of rotors all around, 2 sets of pads, shocks/struts/control arms/ball joints ( and frankly, i think my mechanic was being "very proactive" with the preceding slashed set ), the temperature control unit(warranty), 3 sets of tires, one thermostat, one brake bulb, and that's all i can think of. I will need new summer & winter tires soon, and i wouldn't be surprised if the stock clutch&battery ought to be replaced soon.

I have a lot of dings, i park in a lot now and there's several suv drivers, but until recently, it looked pristine inside & out.

I've had a few wretched cars in my life, so perhaps my karma is balancing out.

dave

kominsky

'01 330Ci - 96K miles

Covered by warranty - blown sub-woofer, xenon igniter, left control-arm/tie-rod assembly, and a couple rattles.

Not covered - right control-arm/tie-rod assembly, a couple of turn-signal bulbs and more sets of tires than I care to count.

sunilb

Does anyone have a comprehensive list of items to be taken care of around 60K? The owner's manual ('01 330i) only lists: oil change, microfilter, air filter. I've done these on my own.

As I have 64K on the car, I queried a local shop about doing the water pump, thermostat and serpentine belt; and the mechanic recommended the following addt'l items:

- fuel filter
- differential fluid
- spark plugs (they can go 100K, but this guy is recommending it every 60K)

How does this list look?
Too much, or too little? (he said to wait on the tranny fluid until 90K, unless it feels like it needs it).

Thanks!

choco325

Im not sure about 60k but when you get close to 70k or so make sure that you check your water pump bearing play. I have had three BMWs (1984 318i, 1991 325, and currently own a 1994 325is with 92,000 miles.) I generally replace most parts myself because I used to be a mechanic. Each of my cars required by 85,000-90,000 a water pump, radiator,thermostat,belt and sometimes idler pulley.I had usually had replaced the rotors and brakes by then. But if the water pump bearing has ANY PLAY IT WILL SHATTER THE FAN BLADES. IF THIS HAPPENS AND THE ONLY THING DAMAGED IS THE FAN YOU ARE VERY LUCKY. GET THE WATER PUMP CHANGED !!!! This is a problem all three series I have had experienced. Bimmer Magazine had an article on the matter in a June 2004 issue, because of the high revs these engines achieve it can be disasterous in certain circumstances damaging the hood, radiator,mass air sensor housings ect.Other than that the only other thing that I replaced by the same mileage was the exhaust because I live in philly & I believe the snow & salt damage them. I usually replace these items with after market high performance parts (except the fuel or water pumps I get from the dealers) Other than that these are the best performing cars I have ever driven.....I would always get another.

njwolf1

I am on the market to buy either a 325i or a 330i. As I was testing the acceleration of a BMW dealer's 2006 325i demo, the car's transmission consistently slipped at 4500 rpm. As the sales person could not explain why this brand new car with 9 miles on the odometer was experiencing the transmission problems, he posed the question to his manager. The manager explained that the car had not been prepped yet. He explained that the manufacturer ships the cars this way to prevent dock workers at the ports from racing the cars. This explanation seems awfully odd. Does anyone have a similar experience or can someone validate this explanation?

bdr127

The manager explained that the car had not been prepped yet. He explained that the manufacturer ships the cars this way to prevent dock workers at the ports from racing the cars. This explanation seems awfully odd. Does anyone have a similar experience or can someone validate this explanation?

If the car had, in fact, not yet been PDI'd (Pre-Delivery Inspection) then the manager was correct that it would definitely not run to full potential. Whether the car really had/hadn't gotten PDI'd is the next question... Sounds like perhaps it hadn't, though.

Not only does the engine not run at full capacity, but Bluetooth/BMW Assist and other accessory-type things do not work. They also ship with blocks inside the suspension so the cars are firmed up and don't bounce around during the voyage. BMWs need more before they're ready to drive than just taking out the plastic seat covers and filling them with gas.

rex01z3coupe

I have a 2001 Z3 Coupe with 61K just went through inspection II at the dealership. There were a number of things wrong, Coolant leaking hose, P/S Hose leaking, belts cracked, passenger window regulator going out, windshield washer pump bad, breaks front & rear recommend replace pads, roters, sensors...all for the grand total of $3500.00! This just seems crazy all of these things are wrong. I paid the barest minimum $750.00 to get out of the dealership. I would like a second opinion. Where should I take my car in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area to keep from getting rooked out in the auto repair world?

fwalsh

I own a 1999 318ti Sport, 60K miles. Love the car but not the maintenance. I am currently having an engine symptom for the second time. The problem is a knocking noise coming from the engine. If it is the same problem again, it is a rod bearing problem. Does anyone know of any Technical Service Bulletins or any other semi-admission of a problem by BMW of this defect within the 318 series.

kurtamaxxxguy

That big glass opening isn't much help in S.Calif either, for when we get rainstorms, there is so much spray and fog from other vehicles (many driving over the speed limit, especially Merceders and Bimmers!) that it's impossible to see potholes which erupt in the roads during these times.

Do those lo-profile tires make __that__ much difference in everyday handling and driving pleasure to justify replacing them _and_ the wheel because of these unseen hazards?

BTW, our company prez owns the V-10 Bimmer and races on weekends. He can __afford_ those lo_pros!

sunilb

Thanks... but wouldn't replacing the water pump also catch this "bearing play"? Or is this something I should bring up with the mechanic?

Thanks.

div2

The M42/M44 engines aren't known to suffer from the problem you describe. The M42 in my one owner Club Sport has 102K on the clock and and has spent most of its service life above 3000 rpm. As far as repairs go, I've only replaced two serpentine belts, two idler pulleys, and a timing chain tensioner. My maintenance and repair costs costs-including three sets of tires- have averaged less than $450 per year.

potemkin

My experiences with a 318ti...

I own a 1995 318ti - Cheapo Base Model - Hellrot. I drove it daily from August 1995 to January 2005.

I've had a battery explode once while starting the car (I blamed the battery; the guy at Autozone blamed the car; status: unresolved). I had to replace the thermostat at about 105k miles. The ignition switch failed at about 85k miles.

I've replaced (list based on memory):
The 'shocks' on the rear hatch (worn out - 100k)
O2 sensor (precaution - 100k)
Belt (precaution - 60k)
Tires (normal wear - various)
Windshield washer sprayers (clogged - 105k)
Wiper blades (normal wear - various)
Exterior bulbs (burned out - various)
Steel Wheels (w/ some cool Borbets from the Tirerack - 100k) - Link
Serpentine belt (precaution - 100k)
Front plate - Link
Thermostat (failed)
Ignition switch (failed)
Batteries (36k - died; 45k - exploded; 95k - died)

All-in-all, the most reliable car I've ever owned.

njwolf

Thanks bdr127

Mr_Shiftright

Some of this stuff sounds like normal wear and tear at 60K...you could get all of this done at an independent shop, you dont need the dealer for "expendables" like brakes or hoses or belts. The window regulator? Maybe removing the panel and lubricating and adjusting everything in there would make it work better. That one sounds a bit suspicious.

As for brakes, usually you do not turn rotors on German cars. Leaking power steering hoses are kind of a notorious BMW malady.

jeffmarsh

I have a 2000 323ci 5-speed also. When I hit around 160,000 miles, a bar that is welded to the trunk had somehow come un welded. I had my local BMW shop check it out and re weld the bar. no problems since.

You description of what you are hearing sound really similar to what I was hearing.

Hope that helps

ek01

I have a 2002 330i with approximately 98,000kms or 61,000 miles. The car runs great but every morning I start the car it sounds rough. After warming up, the car is quiet again.

I've noticed this only since this past winter. I live in Toronto, a cold weather environment.

I had the car go through its appropriate service last fall.

Thanks. Appreciate any input.

canman1971

On my 2000 323i with 59000 miles, my oil light goes on when I start it and stays on for about 1 minute, max. I check my oil frequently and it is always the same. Any reason for this? I'm going in for my Inspection II soon, so maybe they'll tell me. One time and only once, which is odd to me, I noticed smoke coming from under my hood. I checked it and it smelled like oil, and went to the dealer. Of course, when I got there, it wasn't doing it anymore and hasn't done it since. He told me to just keep an eye on it and if it does it again, bring it in, but it hasn't. Only the light issue.

Mr_Shiftright

What kind of oil filter do you put it? If I were you first thing I'd do is buy a filter from the dealer and see what happens.

canman1971

My dealer did my last oil change, so it's gotta be a BMW filter. I'm taking it in within the next month so,(Inspection II) hopefully it'll take care of it.

gafferdy

Hi, I have a 2005 325i and for the entire year I had the car, the brakes have been squeaking when I press to stop the car. I've took the car in a few months ago and they said that it is normal for beemers to squeak. Does anyone have the same problem?

sunilb

could be that your oil sensor has gone bad; esp. since you mention that the oil level is fine.

div2

If you do mostly light braking the pads can tend to squeal. Several hard brake applications will often cure the problem. If not, there's always Axxis Deluxe pads.

gordonwd

My '04 325i seems to have developed a slight "surging" problem. Mostly when shifting from 1st to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd under normal acceleration, there a mild surging effect that definitely was not there before. Some people might not notice it, but I sure did when it suddenly started doing it. As I said, this happens right after shifting, with the engine in about the 2500-3000 rpm range. It feels a little bit like what you feel when you're lugging the engine, but way, way less severe.

Since this happened the day after I filled up, I am sort of wondering if I got a bad tank of gas -- like maybe they were pumping regular grade out of the premium pump. My plan right now is to burn this tank to just about empty and then refill it at a different station.

Anyone have any other ideas about what could cause this?