BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

yetirbdnky

I have a 2002 330ci with a UUC performance organic clutch/lightweight flywheel package. It's wonderful, except if I don't engage quickly at a low rpm (below 1100), I hear what sounds like friction noise between the flywheel & clutch. if the engagement is even slower for a smoother engagement(which I can only accomplish at around 1500 rpm), I smell horrible clutch smell. I called UUC, and taking their advice I went back to where it was installed. UUC said I should hear nothing. The installer said it seems like glazing on the flywheel from aggressive driving, and 3 to 4 thousand miles of conservative engagements should break through that glazed layer. if the noise is not gone by then, it most likely won't ever be. My question is this: Does anybody else have this package and is experiencing the same problem? And if so, do you know anything about the problem, or if it is even a problem. It only happens if I have to engage at a high rpm (1500 to 1800) like when I'm facing up hill and don't want to run into the car behind me. my own logic has told me that due to the greater clamping force, the higher rpm's create too much heat, overheating the clutch causing it to create a glazed layer on the flywheel, which in turn causes this whirring/whining sound. Could this be a problem due to inproper breakin procedure? I tried to do it correctly. If anybody knows anything, pleace let me know. you can e-mail me, you can leave a message here. I just want something...

yetirbdnky

also, the noise only occurs when engagement is too slow. So... the sound occurs during engagements that are too slow at too high at an rpm. Thank you to anybody who can help me or give me advice. cheers.

div2

I have a 2002 330ci with a UUC performance organic clutch/lightweight flywheel package.

Based on my own experience-as well as those of several friends-UUC Motorwerks sells first rate products. And they stand behind them.

It only happens if I have to engage at a high rpm (1500 to 1800) like when I'm facing up hill and don't want to run into the car behind me.

From the painful description of your driving technique, I strongly suspect that you are responsible for any glazing/damage to the clutch.

my own logic has told me that due to the greater clamping force, the higher rpm's create too much heat, overheating the clutch causing it to create a glazed layer on the flywheel, which in turn causes this whirring/whining sound

Afraid not. Just out of curiosity, why did you install the UUC package? Was the OEM clutch worn out? How many miles were on the original assembly?

yetirbdnky

I managed to make the original clutch last 117,000 miles. It was really mushy, but wasn't slipping yet. I already have the Dinan S package and UUC swaybars, and I wanted more. It was awkward going from a worn out oem clutch to a brand new performance clutch, so it was easy to give it gas too early and engage at too high of an rpm. I can engage below 1000 rpm easily, but sometimes I hear the sound (just barely) at the conclusion of a 3 point turn or if I give it gas a microsecond too early. That's why I suspected the overheating. It seems like the situation has improved since my extra-conservative engagement mission began, but I don't know when I'll be done. My driving style that appears to have caused glazing is not reflective of my normal driving style, but a result of accidents while getting used to the new clutch. How will I know when my clutch is okay? or will i ever? And is there anything else I can do? or NOT do for that matter?

Thanks again.

nyea

i just spent over $1800 at aamca for the same problem for my 323i at 50000+ miles. the reverse chain (or belt) was broken. the only thing you can do is to rebuild the transmission.

nyea

i have two 3-series, a 323i (2001) and a 330xi (2005). both of them seem to have coolant leakage problem. the dealer did something on 323i and the car seems to be fine now. i bought the 330xi a year ago, and have been adding 500ml coolant every 5000 miles. i am sure this would be a common problem if it happens to me two out two times.

dhanley

I add somewhat less than yo do to my '97 328i. My cousin tightened the hoses for me and the problem was reduced even further.

A liter of coolant every 10K isn't great, but i don't think it's terribly unusual either. A lot of cars get the coolant topped off every oil change but with the changes so far apart, and the system so aggressive about notifying low coolant...

dave

canman1971

I was just in a drive thru at Dunkin Donuts in my 2000 323i and I heard a loud pop, and all the fluid in my radiator came out. The car didn't overheat, but when it happened the needle shot right up, but the light never came on. It happened so fast. I currently have it at the dealer, but I haven't found out what it was yet. I do have a pretty good extended warranty (best purchase for this car so far), but I see recent posts about coolant leaking and blowing a gasket or whatever. Any info on the potential diagnosis would be greatly appreciated. It wasn't leaking at all and I just had the inspection II done about a month ago.

Mr_Shiftright

BMWs like to bust their top radiator inlets.....

canman1971

What exactly is a top radiator inlet? What am I looking at for repair costs should it be that? Hopefully, my warranty would cover it. It covers just about everything.

nyea

i have to add one quart of motor oil every 5000 miles for my 2005 330xi. of course, the dealer said it is normal. my 2001 x5 (3-liter engine too) started with the same problem, and now it is getting worse - i have to add 1 quart every 1000 miles.

div2

What exactly is a top radiator inlet?

The large nipple that the top radiator hose attaches to.

What am I looking at for repair costs should it be that?

Replacing the radiator is the only fix. I'd strongly suggest that you also replace the thermostat and thermostat housing while you are in there. I'd call it $500 tops.

canman1971

Thanks, hopefully I'll know the diagnosis by tomorrow. I post what it was.

ghloeb

Does the following make any sense?

I bought a BMW-certified pre-owned 325xi (2003 model) with 32k miles on it. Drove it 8 weeks, about 1000 miles. Had an accident, car towed to dealer's shop. Damage to front wheel and suspension.

Shop calls, says that once they got in there, they see the car needs a new clutch and flywheel, which insurance won't cover since the condition was not caused by the accident (pricetag: $2800).

I say: whoa, you sold me a certified used car with a clutch and flywheel that needed to be replaced, and you want me to pay for it?

They say: OK, we'll replace the clutch at no cost but the flywheel shows signs of misuse/abuse. Flywheels normally last life of the vehicle or at least a lot longer than 32k, so you have to pay to replace it.

I say: (i) I didn't abuse the clutch/shifting/flywheel etc.; (ii) I only had it 60 days anyway; (iii) if there was abuse, the prior owner must have done it.

Knowing nothing about the mechanics of this, I am hoping someone can tell me (a) whether what the dealer is saying makes any sense, (b) whether 2003 3-series is known for any unsual flywheel problems, (c) what's the life expectancy of flywheel on a reasonably-driven 3 series.

My guess is dealer didn't bother to look (or didn't want to look) at the clutch/flywheel when prior owner turned the car in, figuring the next buyer would come in after a few thousand miles and have to eat the replacement cost. Comments?

dhanley

If the dealer won't play nice I would call your regional BMW rep. Obviously, you shouldn't need to replace a major compoment on a CPO car.

Also a clutch at 32K seems _very_ early, i'm on my original clutch at 113K miles, and i learned stick on the car.

dave

nyea

i agree with your analysis. however, a liter of coolant for the first 10000 miles seems to be unusual for a brand new car. i had a honda accord for 10 years with 160,000 miles, and i didn't add a drop of coolant and a drop of oil myself before i traded in. it was truly a trouble/maintenance free car.

div2

Knowing nothing about the mechanics of this, I am hoping someone can tell me (a) whether what the dealer is saying makes any sense, (b) whether 2003 3-series is known for any unsual flywheel problems, (c) what's the life expectancy of flywheel on a reasonably-driven 3 series

(a) Getting a free clutch is a good deal, as it's considered a wear item- which isn't covered under the CPO plan.
(b) BMW clutch/flywheel assemblies are known for their robust construction and longevity.
(c) I would expect that a properly driven flywheel would easily last for the life of the car.

rhmass

I think you have a problem particularly with the X5 using quart/1000 miles. For the 330xi, it might be acceptable for a quart/5,000 miles, although I never had a BMW requiring adding oil at 5,000 miles.

In my ownership of 6 BMWs, I only have had a couple using oil during the initial break-in (about half of a quart after the first 1,500 miles as I didn't wait until it required a quart. They all run great. I think BMW produces the best and most reliable engines in the industry. Never had an engine using oil including the one after 165.000 miles!

Mr_Shiftright

If the clutch disk wears down to the rivets, it will eat up the flywheel...but obviously you would have noticed this while driving.....the only other way to damage a flywheel is rather drastic clutch-dumping, causing overheating of the flywheel and severe glazing/cracking.

If you've had the car only 8 weeks, and didn't notice any bad clutch problems, I don't see why BMW should hold you responsible on a CPO car. If you've been street racing, then you should 'fess up.

sit

I have 325I x 06 about 19000 miles. The car has been pretty reliable but about 2 wks ago,when check engine soon light came on. I took it to the dealer and he told me it is thermostat problem. They kept my car for about 2 days and fixed the problem. However, I have noticed a blowing sound between 40-65 miles. The sound appears to come from engine and i have made sure that windows are tightly closed. This happens typically on stable speed between this range. I don't hear it over 70 miles or when i am accelerating the car. It is kind of annoying.
Is there any relationship between thermostat and quality of sound or emission. May be it is a separate issue.
I would appreciate if Shipo or some one else can help me with this.

Thanks
SIT.

nyea

i could be wrong but i believe x5 (3.0i) has the same engine as the 330xi. my x5 started with 5k/quart, and now is getting worse. i just have the feeling that my 330xi will follow the same path as the x5. i never really have to add a drop of oil for any cars i have ever owned, including my 1982 mb 380sl with 180k miles.

div2

It sounds to me as if a vacuum hose or other fitting was left disconnected after the thermostat was replaced. Check under the hood and see if anything is obviously amiss.

canman1971

Well, the diagnosis is in and isn't what I had thought. It is the radiator reserve tank, or something like that. They quoted me at $320, which doesn't sound bad, but my warranty doesn't cover it. I wish it had been the radiator. They also found the oil sensor sender that was bad, which is another 400, also not covered by my warranty. I love my car, but this is a tough one to swallow.

nyea

since it is not covered anyway, you may want to have the car checked by an independent shop, preferably a friend of yours.

canman1971

Well, I just had them fix it. I usually have another guy who does my work, but he wasn't open on the weekend, and I would've had to have it towed again. I need my car back. I'm driving a Chevy Alevo rental so you should understand.

div2

I hate to be the one to tell you this, but it sounds like that shop really hosed you.

midgeone1

hi everybody, I drive a lovely E36 1994 318i. About 6wks ago i slid into the rear of another car at about 10mph in snow. From that date i have had lots of problems with over heating. The problem is both top and bottom radiator hoses become very solid though pressure, and overheating starts in fact the needle is in the red within 1.5miles from start of journey. i have changed the radiator and the thermostat but still this problem occurs. I would be very grateful for any comments,suggestion,help on this very worrying matter thankyou. yours desperetlly, midge

Mr_Shiftright

Sounds like somebody did something wrong during the repair....maybe put the thermostat in backwards? A fast overheat like that suggests either MAJOR blockage of coolant or a cracked cylinder head. Really no other way for a car to overheat so quickly.

The comment about the radiator hoses makes no sense, sorry. Hoses can only cause overheat if they collapse from old age.

You may need to go to a shop that knows what they are doing. Something this totally drastic can't be that hard to spot.

sit

Hi div2,I know this is probabaly a dumb question, but where is vacuum hose? I will open the hood and try to figure out if anything is amiss.
SIT

div2

It's not a dumb question; look for any smaller rubber hoses in the 1/4"-1/2" range that are not connected to anything.

atic

I have a 1997 318ti 150000+ miles, bttery was supposed to be new, right headlight went out, and one bulb on the left headlight went out mysteriously last night, could this be a shortage in a fuse?? or just bulb need replacing?...engine light had been on, but went out after oil change, does that mean the problem is fixed??

autoboy16

Hi! My mom is looking for a convertible bmw 3series. She like either a 330Ci or 325Ci but wouldn't mind a 328Ci or 323Ci since they are all essentially close performance and style wise. I found a red (ok burgundy) 323Ci with steptronic and a nav system. I just want to know what is bundled into the nav screen and about the ease of use. Also wondering if there has been any TSBs or Vehicle recalls on this model. It has 47k miles and has everything she should want and need after moving out of her tooooo small Mx-5 Miata. Any Input would be appreciated!

ps: If you were a deserving mom, would you be looking foward to owning these with as few problems as possible?



Thanks,
Charles aka cj

bhitchcock

After just spending much more time cleaning off brake dust on my 330i wheels than cleaning the whole car, I have to ask if those new pads from axxis make a big difference?? Thanks,

div2

I have to ask if those new pads from axxis make a big difference??

Yes. If you aren't track the car, I'd recommend going with the Deluxe Plus pad compound. It's an excellent choice for street driven BMWs.

rmounticure

I would like to get an answer on that question as well. I have a 2002 325CI, and my front right park light went out, and my left Xenon light went out. I think there is an electrical problem somewhere in the system.

yetirbdnky

my clutch/flywheel package still seems fine. the whirring/whining sound seems to be gone unless engagement into first gear (or reverse) takes a long time (like on a steep hill) even if the engagement is below 1000 rpm, which it always is now that i've become accustomed to the package/combo. does anybody have any more advice they can give me? i really don't want to f anything up. I already avoid hills whenever I can.

cheers

yetirbdnky

my parents have a 1998 323is, and it won't warm up to operating temperature no matter how long i'm driving it. If I TRY to warm it up, within reason of course, it will eventually warm up to operating temperature, but once I start driving conservatively, the temperature begins to fall. it usually settles about 20 degrees (not temperature degrees, but angle degrees) from verticle. any guesses or ideas anybody?

cheers

div2

Those are the classic symptoms of a bad thermostat. Replace the plastic thermostat housing while you are at it.

sit

Hi div2,
I had a service coming up and got it checked by the dealer. I went for a test drive with a mechanic and he told me the sound is due to RFTs. At higher speeds the engine sound kind of masks it.
Thanks for your input.
SIT.

me21379

2006 BMW 325. I have a problem with the headrest. It is too forward and makes my head and neck bend and I can't relax my shoulders on the back of the seat. The seat is designed for a taller person. The dealer doesn't want to mess with it saying it would compromise all the safety testing the car went through. Any one else with this problem and/or a possible fix?

brislance1

bhitchcock

I did, indeed, install the PBR-axxis deluxe pads that Div2 mentioned in his response to you. I have had little or no dust. Just made a 2000 mile trip from Arizona to Minnesota and when I washed the car it took about three minutes to spray the wheels with soap foam and rinse them off. Clean as new! Slap them on, you won't be sorry.

moth

I have just bought a nice 318 cabriolet well knowing that the automatic soft top mechanism only worked by hand. And as a proven home mechanic I thought that would be a minor problem. I bought a Haynes manual (as I always do) but it says nothing about the Cab. function. I have heard the two cab. motors running and the gears are OK. I have tested the micro switch in the trunk and in the cab cover – and the switch in the cab. also seems OK, but I can only guarantee the one in the cab cover works all the way to the end module because it releases the trunk all right. When I engage the gears nothing happens. Although I have seen and heard the motors and gears running under some circumstances (I forgot which) when I operated the cab switch on the dashboard they don’t run very often. How do I synchronize and get this stuff to work – this is not a case for tire kickers I know, but I have zeroed ABS systems before and made them work. Are there any web pages that describe the wiring diagram of the soft top and how it functions? – I really need some professional help.

atic

My 1997 318 ti is running on 87 right now due to high prices and all...umm..it recommends 89...is it ok for me to down grade for a while?..is it that much of a difference?? can someone explain this to me, and is it ok to mix the grades if possible???

jwp2

I have 2 BMWs - 1985 524td with 201K and a 2000 323i with 96k. The 85 is still running strong, with no problems, and driven daily.

I usually keep my cars a long time ('84 Saab 900T - 266k; 94 Volvo 940 290k). How many miles can I expect from my 323i, without spending a fortune to keep it running? The dealer's service manager said the engine and trans are "rock solid". I maintain my car by the book. Had "normal" repairs with the exception of a cam timing sensor and oil leaking into my cooling system (BMW thought it was a cracked head and replaced it under Certified PreOwned).

Is it possible to get 250K miles or shall I sell (current price $10-13.5k, car in great shape) and take the money and run and buy a newer 3 series.

Any suggestions/ info will be appreciated.

div2

This issue has been discussed at length(some would say beaten to death) in various threads. The general consensus is that any savings from using 87 AKI fuel are offset by poorer fuel economy, since the engine management has to retard the ignition timing due to the lower octane fuel. And anyway, if you do the math, you'll see that your "savings" will add up to all of about $5 per month.

div2

Is it possible to get 250K miles or shall I sell (current price $10-13.5k, car in great shape) and take the money and run and buy a newer 3 series.

Unless just you want a newer car, I'd say keep it. The E46 has proven to be a very reliable model.

kosbeemer

I own a 2000 323i. In the morning when I start my car it sounds rough, as if it almost doesn't want to start. Also sounds like only 4 cylinders are firing up and not 6. Car has a little shake to it. After it warms up ( about 3 to 4 minutes] it sounds normal again. Through out the rest of the day, errands, work and what not it does not do it again. Some days worse then others.Only happens in the morning or sitting for a long period of time. Any clues? Thanks. Krissy

kosbeemer

When I first start my car the oil light stays on in yellow for about 6 to 10 seconds then goes out. I have had my mechanic check the oil pump, pressure and I have my oil changed every 5 thousand miles and I use mobil 1 100% synthetic. Any ideas?

kosbeemer

I own a 2000 323i. I did the "cheaper" route too. Caused me for my engine light to go on and it sounded like a mac truck, and a trip to the mechanic to clear the code and replace an oxygen sensor. This was last summer. Since then I only use 93 octane. No problems since

div2

Several things could be causing the problems you describe. Among other things, I'd check the plugs, fuel pressure regulator, and the coolant temperature sensor.