BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I called the dealer and asked them and they said it could be some air pockets in my lines. So I added water and the level never went down again. It happened once after I added the water, which was about 2 weeks ago and hasn't done it again and the fluid levels are fine. Should I be concerned?

    Probably not; the dealer's explanation sounds reasonable. That said, I'd keep an eye on the thermostat as well as the plastic thermostat housing, since overheating can seriously reduce their life span.
  • lxpatellxpatel Member Posts: 34
    I have 00 328i w/ sport package. The transmission shift lever light on the center console states lit in 4 when the instrument cluster says D. The transmission does infact go all the way to the 5th gear. When I shift all the way down to 2 the lights match up but then once head light are on the P on the center console is fully lit even when the transmmision is in D. I do not have tip tronic transmission.
  • jimbo409jimbo409 Member Posts: 18
    I am considering buying a 318ic convt with 50,000 miles from original owner. He wants 8500.00 firm, do you think this car is worth it. Also what maintenance will it need right away. He also says it has tan Leatherette interior what is this. Thanks Jim
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds a bit high even with a bonus for low miles. You might want to check when the timing belt is due on that car. I think it's at 60K?? Seems like 7,000--$7,500 would be more than generous, and this presumes a very very sharp car with no dings, rips, stains or needs. But in the great scheme of things, paying $8,500 wouldn't be a tragedy for an exceptional automobile---just don't expect to re-sell it easily for that.

    Low miles on an 11 year old car isn't necessarily all that good a thing.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    am considering buying a 318ic convt with 50,000 miles from original owner. He wants 8500.00 firm, do you think this car is worth it.

    Sounds high.

    Also what maintenance will it need right away.

    A BMW of that vintage requires an oil change at 7500 miles, a minor service every 15000 and a major service every 30000. These numbers are approximate since the car calculates the exact interval based on driving conditions. Brake fluid is changed every two years and coolant every three years. You must use the fluids specified by BMW(no Walmart coolant or brake fluid, please!). As always, I would strongly advise that you have the car thoroughly checked out by a mechanic who knows BMWs.

    He also says it has tan Leatherette interior what is this.

    Leatherette is the BMW name for vinyl. It really doesn't look bad and it's probably a better choice than leather for an open car.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    You might want to check when the timing belt is due on that car. I think it's at 60K??

    The M42 engine has a timing chain. As a matter of fact all BMW four cylinders sold in the US used timing chains. The only US-spec BMW engine that used a belt-the M20 "small" six-was replaced by the M50 in 1991/1992.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    gotcha. I do remember the belts breaking on older 325s so that's why I thought of that.

    Okay then all he has coming up is a 30,000 mile interval service I guess....
  • superdogsuperdog Member Posts: 37
    Can someone shed some light on what happen..

    I was driving.. all of the sudden, I feel the car get sluggish.. when I take my foot off the gas.. a sudden decrease in speed (abnormally). I thought the tranny was out of gear or something.. I was on the highway.. after another 1/2 mile.. I felt the steering wheel/car started to feel like it had a flat(tires were all fine). Steering wheel started to shake. I pulled over and there was a serious burning smell coming from the front left tire/brake area. I'm having the car towed into the dealer tmro.. but if anyone can shed some light before I go in.. I'd be grateful!

    Thanks
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Useless Bimmer Trivia: The M40 four cylinder(which was never offered over here) also used a timing belt.
    In any event, it doesn't hurt to replace the timing chain tensioner at 100K on the M44/42 motors; the part costs less than $50 and takes all of about 15 minutes to install.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    It sounds like a stuck LF brake caliper or(less likely) the LF wheel bearing.
  • sgfryersgfryer Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem as you. The headrests are far to forward on the 2006 3-series. I have never owned or been in a car with such uncomfortable headrests. Did you find a solution? Did BMW provide any assistance? I was thinking that one could change them with an older model headrest or just use the headrests that they use on the 5 or 7 series, if they are interchangeable. Their other models seem to be fine. I would be surprised if more people have not complained about this. Thanks.
  • giovanni3giovanni3 Member Posts: 5
    I have the engine already (only 6k miles), but the dealer is charging $2000.00 for labor.
  • superdogsuperdog Member Posts: 37
    Good call..it was the brake caliper. Thanks for the heads up.
  • jimbo409jimbo409 Member Posts: 18
    I just looked at the 95 318is and there is a noise when the car is in neutral manual trans. The owner said he thinks this is a heat shield by the catalytic converter, Also the radio has a code on the faceplate. He said that the battery ran dead and the code came on. He said that the bmw dealer has to give you the code to reprogram. Could this be right Please help?
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I just looked at the 95 318is and there is a noise when the car is in neutral manual trans. The owner said he thinks this is a heat shield by the catalytic converter

    It could be a heat shield, but it might also be a transmission fault- which is why I strongly advise that you have a good BMW tech inspect the car.

    Also the radio has a code on the faceplate. He said that the battery ran dead and the code came on. He said that the bmw dealer has to give you the code to reprogram. Could this be right?

    Yes you need to pull the radio and write down the serial number. Any BMW dealer should then be able to provide the code upon proof of vehicle ownership. You simply enter the five digit numeric code through the buttons on the faceplate.
  • jimbo409jimbo409 Member Posts: 18
    Thanks so much for your help. Jim
  • jimbo409jimbo409 Member Posts: 18
    What is the difference between these two
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Sounds like one's a coupe and the other's a sedan.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    What is the difference between these two?

    ic= Convertible
    is= Coupe
  • jimbo409jimbo409 Member Posts: 18
    I just bought a 1995 318ic convt with 50,000 original miles It is in excellent condition. I am wondering if I can now start putting in synthetic oil instead of the regular oil that the old owner was putting in. Also any recommenditions on type and weight of oil to use. Thanks again Jim. LOVE THIS SITE
  • me21379me21379 Member Posts: 18
    Never did find a solution. No help from Dealer or BMW. Doesn't look like we'll find one :(
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I am wondering if I can now start putting in synthetic oil instead of the regular oil that the old owner was putting in.

    I would switch to Mobil 1 0W-40 and change it when the Service Interval Indicator tells you(@7500 miles). Change the transmission oil(Mobil 1 ATF) and rear axle oil(Mobil 1/Redline/Valvoline Synpower 75W-90) every 50000 miles.
  • giorgionicolisgiorgionicolis Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2006 BMW 330 xi and have one major problem. The automatic windshield wiper is almost always much too fast [ sometimes insanely so ] even when kept at its lowest sensitivity setting. Additionally if the automatic wiper is left on when I leave the car and it has started raining by the time I get back, the wiper is merrily wiping away. Finally there seems to be very little difference in wiper response between the most [top] and the least [bottom] sensitivity settings. I hate driving when it rains. Giorgio
  • jimbo409jimbo409 Member Posts: 18
    My 1995 318is with 50000 miles on it just started having the engine light go on, Does any one know what the cause of this light on is. Also can I drive it for awhile 1 week or so until I can get it serviced or will this go away on its own. Thanks jim
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Does any one know what the cause of this light on is? Also can I drive it for awhile 1 week or so until I can get it serviced or will this go away on its own.

    The check engine light(CEL) indicates that the on-board diagnostic system-in your case OBDI-has detected a problem in the engine management and/or the emission control system. It's just about impossible to make an accurate long distance diagnosis since the CEL can be triggered for a number of reasons. I'd say that as long as the car is running fine it should be safe to drive. In the meantime, you might want to check under the hood to verify that the oil filler cap is on all the way and the dipstick is fully inserted into its tube. Make sure that no vacumn hoses are cracked or disconnected. In the future you might want to pick up a Peake Research R5/FCX(II). It reads engine fault codes and also allows you to reset the CEL, Oil Service, and Inspection lights.
  • luckybillluckybill Member Posts: 1
    :cry: HEllo, I have a 1991 318is that is our babe! I need to locate the fuel pump. Can not find it, found the filter, not the pump, can you help? Thanks so very very much. This is the first visit here. I'm much in your debt, Susan
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Hello, I have a 1991 318is that is our babe!

    Sweet car. One of my favorites.

    I need to locate the fuel pump.

    It is located in the fuel tank. A brief DIY pictorial can be found here. The later model 3ers are very similar so this DIY page should also be of help. If you are replacing the pump be sure to get either a BMW or a Bosch pump-and replace the rubber gasket ring. Needless to say, be VERY careful as gasoline vapors are easily ignited.
  • kevin1071kevin1071 Member Posts: 1
    This happened to me today, except it's my 2006 325i with only 5k miles and 3 1/2 month old. Yesterday, I took the vehicle into the dealer for the Telematic Control Unit recall. Then this morning, while I was parking at my office parking lot, after I enter parking stall, I started to apply the brake. The brake pedal felt soft (normally the pedal is stiff), and it wasn't stopping, so I pressed it all the way to the floor. The car felt like it sped up a bit and hit the vehicle directly infront of me. Luckily no one was in the car and the damage was minor front bummer damage, both to mine and the other vehicle, BUT it was still kind of freaky.

    I called BMW North America and reported the incident. They asked me to take it back to the dealer to have it "evaluated" whatever that means. Hopefully, the on board computer registered the malfunction, but who knows.

    And for those of you who might think i hit the accelerator instead of the brake, think again, cause had i done that, my car and the other vehicle would have major damages. Not to mention the fact that the both vehicle would have left the parking stalls and hit the vehicle in the next row, since I know i pressed the pedal all the way down to the floor.
  • jimbo409jimbo409 Member Posts: 18
    Does anyone know how to clean the manifold and thermostat housing. I have a 318 and it is cast alum I think. I was wondering if I could paint these with something like Por15 or exhaust manifolsd paint. Has anyone done this. Thanks Jim
  • villa1villa1 Member Posts: 1
    my best owns a 330si that currently have a similar problem, won't start from the ignition switch at all did you get your problem resolved?by the way everything else works fine i hope that you can offer some clarification or solution to my delima or anyone else that might have experienced this problem.
  • bmwnabmwna Member Posts: 32
    I'm with BMW of North America, LLC. I've passed this message on to a BMW NA Customer Relations Representative who will be in touch with you soon.

    BMW NA Customer Relations
  • saabskisaabski Member Posts: 61
    Hello all,
     
    I have 2002 325iT Sportswagon with 58,995 miles. I have just recently completed Inspection II at local BMW dealership. However, they did tell me that my belts are cracking and needs to be replaced ($250) and the boots/bushings need to be replaced as well ($450). I have already set up an appointment to fix the busings and replace the belts, then got suspicious as my boss's 330Ci had to FIX THE EXACT SAME ISSUES when he had done his 60K Inspection done a month ago. Do the belts and bushings need to be replace at 60K? Or does this seem like a gimmick? I am strongly considering taking the car to an independent BMW mechanic for an estimate. However, I am afraid that going to independent mechanic will devoid my CPO extended warranty. Is my local BMW center pulling my leg? I know this is a fine luxury car, but maintenance cost is way above my head.
     
    Any advice would be appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Have them show you the cracks in the belts and the torn/worn/rotting bushings and boots.

    No show, no go. If they are so small that YOU can see them then they aren't a problem unless the dealer is just suggesting replacement based on age, not condition.

    So the question is, does the scehduled service DEMAND that these items be replaced or just suggest they be "inspected"?
  • canman1971canman1971 Member Posts: 61
    I just had my inspection II on my 2000 323i done in April by a independent guy and didn't have any problems with belts. I'd go to a indy dealer if it's a guy with a good rep. It is certainly worth it. The inspection II at my dealership would've been around 600-700, and my guy did the same thing for around 300. It is certainly worth it. He also used to work at a BMW dealership for 10 years before he opened his own place, so that is a bonus. Good luck.
  • synergxsynergx Member Posts: 1
    any idea what could be causing a knocking sound from the engine at idle? the dealership filled fluids in the past and the sound went away. now (3 months later) they may have to pop the engine open to figure it out. any suggestions?
  • bora1bora1 Member Posts: 42
    Hello,

    I'm thinking of purchasing a 2005/2006 325i within the next 6 months. I'm new in the BMW market therefore not very farmiliar with them. What sort of common problems should I be aware of? I owned a 2002 Jetta which had transmission problems at 80,000km. I quickly sold the car after replacing the transmission but this made me "sort of weary" of German cars; although a Bimmer and a Jetta are totally different cars. Is the 3 Series worth it or should I be looking for a Japanese alternative? Are these cars (3 series) lemons? Any advice that you can offer me will be highly appreciated. Thanks.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 14,145
    The only similarities between a VW and a BMW is that they're both made in Germany. Two different car companies, with different engineering teams, with different manufacturing facilities, going after different markets.

    Depends on what you want. Many consider BMWs to be the pinnacle of sport/luxury cars. To a slightly lesser extent, I'd throw Audi in there, too.

    There are some good Japanese brands in the segment.....namely Infiniti & Lexus.

    Best thing to do is to drive the cars you think you might be interested in and make your choice. No klunkers in any of those brands.
    2024 Kia EV6 GT-Line AWD Long Range
  • bora1bora1 Member Posts: 42
    Thx for your feedback. I drove a TL a few days ago and i must admit, the 3 Series was a much better driving experience. In terms of maintenance, how would you rate a German car over a Japanese car? In terms of longevity also, are Bimmers long lasting or will I have to replace it after a few years? Are there any "klunkers" with the Bimmer 3 Series? What about rattling door panels or roof moulding? Are these imminent in a 3 Series?
  • yankeeclipperyankeeclipper Member Posts: 11
    Before my 2006 325i, I had a 2004 X3. The X3 had to have the rubber front door seals replaced twice. They both kept coming apart. The third time I just left it that way.
    My new car, after just 500 miles already shows wear on the driver's ">link title rubber door seal. But the more serious problem is the paint on the driver's door handle is flaking off.
    This is a great driver's car, but these problems should't happen to a new car, especially one in this price range.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 14,145
    bora....I'm actually coming from a TL to the 330i. Driving the two there is really no comparison. Don't get me wrong. The TL is a very nice car. The 3 Series is just on a whole other level.

    Maintenance is included during the 3 Series warranty period. Past the warranty period, maintenance costs are going to be higher than a Chevy, for example. But, I think reliability is right up there with the best of them with the BMW based on the folks I've spoken to that have owned BMWs.

    I test drove an A4 & A6, an Infiniti G and M, and a Lexus ES and IS before I decided on the BMW. All nice drivers. The BMW drove the best out of all of those, however. Close 2nd would be the Audis....probably tied with the Infinities.

    Audi offers free maintenance for the '06s but will do away with that for the '07 model year. Neither the Infiniti, nor the Lexus offer free maintenance. I figure free maintenance adds about $1,200-$2000 to the value of the car.

    Don't know if all BMW dealerships do this, but mine offers free loaner cars when it's in for service, too. Free hand car washes are offered too. All the lux brands offer the boutique coffee bar experiences (mine has pastries, bottled water and sodas for free) if that means anything to you.

    Build quality is high on all the brands. I don't think you would find much difference between any of them.

    All the above brands seem to treat their customers much better than a Ford, Chrysler or GM dealership does. I got the impression customer service was more of a focus rather than a tag line with the lux brands.

    Truth told, the deciding factor should be your driving experience. That's what swayed me.

    Good luck and let us know what you decide.
    2024 Kia EV6 GT-Line AWD Long Range
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 14,145
    bora....just realized I didn't really answer some of your questions. The TL build quality is high (it's a honda product, after all). The 3 Series is even better. To me, the BMW feels like a bank vault as far as solidity with a total absence of squeaks and rattles.

    I use the "knuckle thump" test before I buy a vehicle. The "thump" of the BMW surfaces is very solid. Look at things like the stiching of the seats and on the interior door panels, too. It's all very straight an high quality. The wood looks good, too. I've seen some real wood in cars that actually looks like plastic (felt that way about the Lexux, even though they use real wood).

    Again, best thing to do is to drive the ones you're interested in and make a decision from there.
    2024 Kia EV6 GT-Line AWD Long Range
  • vijayramsvijayrams Member Posts: 3
    Hello BMW Experts,

    Could you share your opinion of buying Used 2003 325i Vs ACCORD Ex, I'm getting into buying BMW for the first time, please let me know is it very expensive to maintain Luxury Vehicle compared to Japanese vehicles after 1 year maintenance. Please provide your valuable inputs based on your past experience, Is it good to buy from Private owner with 1 year warranty left out Vs Paying more money to buy Certified Pre Owned vehicle from Dealer.
  • bora1bora1 Member Posts: 42
    graphic guy, Thank you for your feedback and your honest opinion. The information you provided will be very beneficial towards the purchase of my next vehicle. I will definitely keep you posted on my decision.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 14,145
    bora....glad I was able to help. Hope to hear how things pan out.

    You might even want to throw the Acura RL into the mix, too. According to some reports, the RL is selling in the very low 40s. At that price, it's bumping heads with a loaded 3 Series.
    2024 Kia EV6 GT-Line AWD Long Range
  • canman1971canman1971 Member Posts: 61
    Hello,

    The leather around my 2000 323i's steering wheel has become loose you you can turn it. I spoke to my dealer and they said there was nothing they could do. Anyone have this happen to them? Is it common? Any thoughts on a remedy? It's not a huge deal, but it is kind of annoying when I'm driving.
  • lmkopielmkopie Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a '92 325i - real, real cheap; which my boyfriend has poured alot of blood, sweat and time into so that i can drive a pretty car....the body work is done, new 17" racing wheels...(wow-they're lookin' great!)..now for the hard part, which he left for last while i've been searching for a transmission for it...

    he found a transmission for an e30, can the e36 be switched out and replaced with an e30? um an 89 - 91 used to replace a 92, if that makes more sense-which it does to me...

    THANKS SO MUCH!! He's worked so hard, and listened to my mouth for too long not to get this beauty on the road..

    :)
  • fcaofcao Member Posts: 31
    I believe my 325i just past 10,000 miles may have the same problem.

    It's happened once two days ago:
    when I was getting off a freeway (~40 mil/hr), suddenly all warning (fault) lights came on and flashing, accompanied with beeping sounds. The whole event lasted 2~3 seconds. Then all warning lights went off. The electronics seems have reset themselves, because the clock time memory and trip milage memory were lost.

    I didn't have time to confirm whether the engine speed gauge was showing abnormal reading during the 2~3 second incident. But, the car was running through the whole event, and I didn't need to restart the car.

    After the incident, I droved for another ~60 miles to go back home. Everything appeared to be normal (no warning light, engine speed, water temperaure).

    This morning, I sent it to the dealer for a check. As I expected, they didn't find anything, except the electronic system did lost some memory data.

    I will have to talk with the dealer again, asking them to check "a big butterfly valve for air intake during acceleration".
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Fix what you have with upgraded parts. Unless you like the bells and whistles. That 524td is a sweet car. I wish I had one. Love to hear more about it.

    abfisch
  • vijayramsvijayrams Member Posts: 3
    Hello Beemer Gurus, I'm planning to get Certified 2003 330i from Dealer 45K( Its expensive to get it out 29K + Tax), I'm planning to keep the car for 5 years, what do you think about the reliability of the car when it reaches 80 to 90K Miles, would it give more maintenance issues/expenses or whats it observed results ? Any long term beember owner would like to share the experience ?.
    After paying off for the car, I dont want incur incremental expenses.
    Appreciate your inputs on this matter.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    This is not really the right place for your question. The discussion you created may get you some input, but you also ought to peruse the ongoing BMW 3-Series Sedans - 2005 and earlier. Good luck!!
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