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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

15455575960105

Comments

  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Did the mechanic measure the oil pressure at cold start-up? If the oil pressure checked out good on that test, then the problem is almost certainly a bad oil pressure sending unit- which is usually cheap and simple to replace.
  • canman1971canman1971 Member Posts: 61
    It sound like it is exactly what div2 said. The oil pressure sending unit. My car was doing the same thing and I had 2 guys tell me the same thing. I had it fixed, because I had some other stuff done, and it cost about $300, which was at a dealer. I could've had it done cheaper at my indy shop, but I didn't want to wait, so I had it done.
  • r_l_edisonr_l_edison Member Posts: 14
    I have a 330xi with a 6sp and 11,500 miles. I've posted here before regarding this problem, which was finally partially corrected when my dealership reset the computer on my car (and replaced the driver's seat frame, for those who might go back into the archives to review said problems). From what I've gathered here, it seems this ongoing problem is probably the electronic delay valve (EDV) for the clutch. I get the erratic performance from the clutch when starting out from a stop and on the 1st to 2nd shift in the form of the clutch jerking or not engaging smoothly after I've already release the pedal completely. It doesn't do it all the time or in any kind of consistent manner...just often enough to be very aggravating in stop-and-go city driving, which makes up about 85% of my driving time. I've driven manual trans vehicles since I was a kid, so this is not a symptom of inexperience on my part, and I've never had this much trouble shifting/driving a manual trans smoothly before. Some have suggested removing or disabling the EDV...my question is how difficult/expensive is this to do...will any decent, private shop do it (since I doubt the dealership will do it)...and will this void my warranty and/or service plan if the dealership discovers what's been done? If I can't get this problem resolved, I'm going to get rid of this car and find a car that knows a manual transmission means the driver knows best when and how to engage the clutch to get the car moving properly :mad: Porsche/Audi/Volkswagen all seem to know how a clutch is suppose to work...maybe BMW should take a field trip to their drivetrain department and take some notes!
  • r_l_edisonr_l_edison Member Posts: 14
    Update: It's a Clutch Delay Valve (CDV), not EDV (not electric at all). I found a website that details this problem and how to correct it in fantastic detail. Here's the link so hopefully all can be spared from this miserable valve with their own BMWs.

    http://www.zeckhausen.com/cdv.htm

    Good luck!
  • canman1971canman1971 Member Posts: 61
    I was sitting getting coffee today and my DSC light came on for no reason. I pushed the button to turn it off and it wouldn't shut off. I turned the car off and back on and it was off. Any ideas if this could be a sign of a problem? Also, right after that, my temp guage went into the red. My A/C wasn't on and it was only around 70 degrees, so it wasn't hot and my car had only been on for about 1/2 hour. I went to pull to the side after getting my coffee and I turned my heat on full blast and it went down immediately. Does anyone know what this could be. I just had my reserve tank replaced so it 's all new fluid in the car. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • msim2020msim2020 Member Posts: 12
    My front tires are up for replacement. I think worn out on the inside due to neglect (no rotation or balancing for at least a year). It might be that they are worn out with use as well.

    I have the option of buying from Costco either two tires or all four. I will ask them as to whether they think my rear tires need replacement as well.

    The Question I have is that the tire options I have are:

    1. Michelin (Palace sport all season): $191 each
    2. BF Goodrich (G4 Sport) $111 each
    3. Michelin (Palace primacy): $194 each
    4. Michelin MXM HX: $234.99

    I do not drive particularly aggressive or anything. Any advise on which one I should buy?

    I hope this is the right forum for this question.
  • msim2020msim2020 Member Posts: 12
    my 4yr 50K warranty is set to expire shortly. i wanted to buy warranty and would appreciate any advise on what options i might have. criteria of course are cost and coverage level, deductible etc.

    thanks!!
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I was sitting getting coffee today and my DSC light came on for no reason.

    My wife's E39 would illuminate the ABS and DSC warning lamps a couple of times per year. They'd always go off in a day or less, so I never got serious about troubleshooting the fault. It's probably a dirty or bad ABS sensor.

    Also, right after that, my temp guage went into the red. My A/C wasn't on and it was only around 70 degrees, so it wasn't hot and my car had only been on for about 1/2 hour. I went to pull to the side after getting my coffee and I turned my heat on full blast and it went down immediately. Does anyone know what this could be?

    It sounds like the cooling system was not bled properly after the expansion tank was replaced. The system may have purged itself, but you can't be sure. I'd keep an eye on the coolant level as well as the temp gauge for the next few days. If it gets hot again, take it back to the shop that did the work and request that the system be bled correctly.
  • canman1971canman1971 Member Posts: 61
    Thank you. I called them and they told me there might be an air pocket somewhere and to keep an eye on it and keep adding water as needed until it's gone. So far, it hasn't done it again.
  • sunilbsunilb Member Posts: 407
    Call the folks at tirerack... they'll give you good advice, likely better prices and ship the tires to a local installer.
  • msim2020msim2020 Member Posts: 12
    Still a lot of jargon at Tirerack that is difficult to undrstand. :(

    Tirerack has a couple of differnet types of tires, but it is not easy to figure which one will give most tracction, lst longest, reduce road noise, minimizes wear and tear.

    Finally, I am mighty supicious of advise from stores sites...

    Any 325i owners who have replaced tires recently (or several times over the last 5-10 years) and are happy with the tires?
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Still a lot of jargon at Tirerack(sic) that is difficult to undrstand(sic).

    I don't see how the Tire Rack site could be any more user-friendly. There are numerous links which explain almost all of the "jargon" in almost elementary school terms. On top of that, there are tons of user evaluations as well as road/track test results. What more do you want?

    Finally, I am mighty supicious(sic) of advise(sic) from stores(sic) sites...

    Your loss; I have bought about a dozen sets of tires from Tire Rack with absolutely no complaints. Any advice they have provided has been spot on.
  • gordonwdgordonwd Member Posts: 337
    I get the erratic performance from the clutch when starting out from a stop and on the 1st to 2nd shift in the form of the clutch jerking or not engaging smoothly after I've already release the pedal completely. It doesn't do it all the time or in any kind of consistent manner...just often enough to be very aggravating in stop-and-go city driving, which makes up about 85% of my driving time.

    Thanks for posting this. I have the exact same problem on my '04 325i. The initial-engagement problems seems to come and go for no apparent reason, and it's embarassing when I have passengers in the car since I have always prided myself on my smooth shifting ability (driving most manuals for over 40 years). I'll mention it when I take my car in for service the next time, but I don't know what they can do to correct it while keeping the CDV in there.

    I also have a problem on the 2-3 shift where the acceleration just after shifting is a bit jerky. It doesn't really feel like it's the clutch slipping (or at least I hope not!), and I was thinking it was something in the electronic engine management that is jittering, but maybe it's also CDV-related.

    Anyway, it's nice to know that I'm not alone in having these problems. This is definitely the hardest car to shift smoothly that I've owned. Interestingly, the BMW motorcycles that I owned were also all pretty rough shifters compared to their Japanese counterparts. Go figger! ;)
  • gordonwdgordonwd Member Posts: 337
    I just put a set of 225/45-17s on my '04 325i and am happy with the Pirelli P-Zero Nero M+S tires that I got from TireRack for $125 each. The "M+S" means that they are all-seasons, so if you do not drive aggressively you might want this type of tire that will give you longer life than a summer performance tire (the P-Zero's are also available in the performance tread).

    So far these tires meet my needs completely: a very quiet ride, plenty of stick for my requirements, and seem good in the rain. I could probably get away with them through the winter as well, but will go back to my stock 16-inch wheels & winter tires in the Fall. The only negative on them is that they are more affected by grooved pavement than the stock tires, but we have very little of that around here and it's not an issue for me.
  • msim2020msim2020 Member Posts: 12
    I hear you. i will look into the user evaluations on the site as well.

    Meanwhile, i currently have Z rated tires on my car, and almost none of the recommended option on the site were for Z tires. Any additional thoughts from people on the need to get myself Z rated tires since I am replacing only two.
  • msim2020msim2020 Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for the recommendation! The price no doubt is better than the Michelin $190 ones. M+S should work for me as well.

    However, since all four that I have currently are 225/45 ZR17s, I am wondering if I should mix and match. Will try to figure out.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    However, since all four that I have currently are 225/45 ZR17s, I am wondering if I should mix and match. Will try to figure out.

    Mixing tire brands is never a good idea; the result is almost always compromised handling.
    If you live in an area that receives significant snowfall, the best thing to do is buy dedicated winter tires mounted on a second set of wheels. That way you can fit serious summer rubber on your stock wheels. It takes less than one hour to swap the wheels over in your driveway.
    That said, if you want to go the all season route then the Pirelli PZero Nero M&S is an excellent tire. Other good choices would be the Avon Tech M550 A/S as well as the Kumho Ecsta ASX. I have run several sets of Kumhos on both my wife's 5er as well as my Club Sport, and I've been very pleased with their performance and longevity; they represent outstanding value as well. Note that all three tires have a W speed rating which exceeds the requirements for your car.
  • msim2020msim2020 Member Posts: 12
    Hey div2,

    Thanks much for your thoughts. This sounds good. I have two Kumho Ecsta Super tires put in place by the previous owner and those are not the ones that require replacement. May be an opportunity to get more of the same. I will find out how the Ecsta Super is different from Ecsta ASX.

    And I am guessing that W and Z are not very different. I will try to find out at TireRack.

    - Shailendra
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    And I am guessing that W and Z are not very different. I will try to find out at TireRack.

    The letters refer to tire speed ratings. W means the tire is rated for 168 mph, while Z denotes a tire rated for 149+ mph. It's all academic really. Any tire rated H, V, Z, or W will be fine for your driving conditions.
    As for the Kumho "Supers", are you sure they aren't Supras? If so, that is an excellent summer performance tire(I currently have a set on my 3 Series)- but it's not at all suited for driving in ice or snow.
  • msim2020msim2020 Member Posts: 12
    As for the Kumho "Supers", are you sure they aren't Supras? If so, that is an excellent summer performance tire(I currently have a set on my 3 Series)- but it's not at all suited for driving in ice or snow.

    The "Supers" are perhaps Supras then. I read it in under flash light one letter at a time :). Hmm... I hope pairing Supras and ASX that you had recommended should be fine. I just do not want to spend the extra $250 at least that I would need to if I replaced all the tires. And it sounds like getting two more of the same will make it even worse in the snow. In am near Richmond, Va and luckily snow is sparse here.

    Thanks Div2!
  • r_l_edisonr_l_edison Member Posts: 14
    I wouldn't expect much from the dealership on this one. The CDV is funtioning they way it was designed to (in their opinion), so it's doubtful that you will get them to even admit that a problem exists (since that would obligate them to the time and expense of correcting it). I just recieved my "new" CDV in the mail yesterday and plan on installing it this weekend. I have high hopes that this will make a huge difference in improving the driving experience of this car. I'll post an update with the results. The link I included in my last posting covers the details of the CDV, how it's suppose to work and how to fix this driveability issue. It's suppose to be a fairly quick and easy fix, so hopefully other BMW drivers will discover this and benefit from it :)
  • gordonwdgordonwd Member Posts: 337
    Be sure to post your results! I'm definitely waiting to hear about it.
  • stan1911stan1911 Member Posts: 12
    I had the Zeckhausen CDV replacement done in my 2001 Z3 Roadster. I also thought I was a slug for not being able to time my clutch/shifter consistently without jerking. After the replacement, and a bit of getting use to the new feel, my shifting improved dramatically. I now have control back. Definately a worthwhile modification.

    Stan
    01 Z3 3.0L 5-spd
    97 528i
  • vortex1vortex1 Member Posts: 4
    My 1994 BMW 325i brake lights are stuck on and I saw on ConsumerGuide.com that this was a recall issue. My vehicle has 170,000 and I am not the original owner so I am sure the recall fix will not apply to me.
    Any clue what the recall fix was so I can do it myself?
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Your problem is almost certainly caused by a bad brake light switch. Since the problem involves a safety-related recall, it wouldn't hurt to drop by the dealer and have them check to see if the recall was ever performed on your car. If not, replacement of the switch is cheap and easy- see here.
  • vortex1vortex1 Member Posts: 4
    OK, looks easy enough and I'll order the part.
    Thanks for the help.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Sorry, I cut and pasted the wrong link. Try this one.
  • vortex1vortex1 Member Posts: 4
    Appreciate the help as it directed me to the real issue.
    There's a triangular metal plate that holds the brake light switch in place (as well as what looks like a clutch safety switch). That metal bracket had come unscrewed from it's brace so the switch was just dangling there.
    Screwed the plate back onto the body frame and it works like new.
    Thanks again.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I'm just glad you were able to fix the problem so easily!
  • vortex1vortex1 Member Posts: 4
    Me too, now I have cruise control back =)
  • drivethegreendrivethegreen Member Posts: 11
    Thanks to the input from all concerned. I had the damage repaired at Boyce Body Werks in Batavia, Illinois. Total cost was $498. They did a superb job. I was advised, however, that they can not pull this rabbit out of the hat again...at least not on this bumper cover. Any future damage would warrant the replacement of the cover as further sanding and repair of this renovated cover would be ill advised.

    My reason for writing however, is to pass along a lesson I learned when I picked up the car. The shop owner brought my car around and parked it where I was standing near the front door. He shut the engine off, pulled the key fob out of the dash and handed it to me, which I placed in my pocket with another fob I brought with me from home. I immediately got in the car and put a fob in the dash and...nothing. I pushed the start button and got nothing. No click whir or whine. I switched fobs and got the same result. We went inside and he called one of his maint techs over (they do a lot of work on BMWs) and he tried and the car started right up.

    I had to pass the BMW dealership where I bought the car on my way to work so I stopped there to see a service rep about the dead engine syndrome. He took both fobs and demonstrated that if I use one, pull it out and switch to the other without waiting about 60 to 90 seconds the car's security system will not recognize the new fob. Accordingly it will not start the car. If I immediately switchback to the first fob, same result.

    Long story but could save someone a service call. When the car does not start after inserting the fob, the natural tendancy would be to go back and forth a few times with two fobs before assuming that the problem is with the car electircal or ignition system, but the rapid exchanging of the fob is enough to shut 'er down for a few minutes.

    DTG
  • msim2020msim2020 Member Posts: 12
    i am considering getting an extended warranty for my 325i that expires in september 2006. wondering if anybody here has ideas on what warranty is appropriate (coverage benefits and deductible) and value for money.

    thanks!
  • unboringuyunboringuy Member Posts: 90
    I've got a 2001 330xi, bought new, that has been using about 0.5 quarts of oil every 3,000 miles or so. Had it checked at the dealership and it supposedly is in spec to use up to one quart every 1,000 miles. Just recently (6 weeks ago) had the oil changed, and now I'm using about a quart in 1,000 miles. Took it back in and they said the same thing...normal and in spec.

    This is my first BMW, and I must say I am rather disturbed by this use of oil!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You can have a "cylinder leakdown test" performed for about $100 and this will definitely tell you if your engine has internal issues or if maybe you miscalculated or perhaps there's just a leak somewhere.
  • pattiluvpattiluv Member Posts: 9
    Advice wanted/needed.

    Have purchased beautiful, brand new 330 ci --owned for two and a half weeks.

    Mostly freeway driving, a little in-town stuff. Have been getting average 15 mpg on highway, tho this number is actually dropping! It drops to about 11 or 12 mpg sometimes.

    Took it to a dealer -- who says -- right on paper --- "15 mpg" is normal. They say they checked emissions, computer, etc. and there is nothing they can do, it's in perfect condition.

    I do not live in especially hilly, cold or hot area so have no reason to suspect unusual circumstances. Mostly flat where I drive and avg. termperature is mild 60's and '70's. And I drive conservatively, (especially during the break in.)

    I am concerned about the following: In addiion to much higher fuel costs and inconvenience in having to fuel up, lower performance from car, and something wrong with engine, leading to shorter life.

    Of course I am concerned, since others seem to be getting much better mileage --- and also this challenges my sense of fairness. I would also like to know if I am alone in this issue?

    I would love suggestions/creative ideas as to how to proceed? Any ideas welcomed and appreciated from the BMW community.

    The broker (who was great in all other ways before this) now says, "Well, it's a high performance car". So, he wasn't very sympathetic. He said, go to the dealer. I am at a little loss here for what next, but I suspect something is truly amiss in this whole situation. (And yes I even did a VIN check!)

    Thanks in advance for any help,
    Patti
  • aticatic Member Posts: 3
    Before I take my 1997 318ti to the dealership, I would like to know somewhat of whats going on with my car..whenever I accelerate and my ac is on, a light comes on that looks like a circle with three dots around each side (i dont have a manuel so i dont know what that means..lol) and then when i first start up the car with my ac on and press the gas it makes this scraping noise..so i have possibly thought the problem is the ac..does anyone know what that light is and whats going on??? thanks...
  • gordonwdgordonwd Member Posts: 337
    You must be driving a heck of a lot to be able to calculate and have concerns about your mileage in only a 2 1/2 week period! That said, it does seem like you are a good 5mpg below what is common for an E46 330. Then again, mileage is often a good bit worse on a brand new car, and will improve as the engine breaks in and loosens up a bit.

    I would suggest getting some more time and miles on the car, and then start bugging the dealer if your mileage does not improve to at least the high teens or low twenties. Fifteen mpg might be within what BMW would consider the "normal" range, but I wouldn't consider it "usual".
  • pattiluvpattiluv Member Posts: 9
    thanks--- i have a mpg reader right on the dash so i can watch it in motion, it takes a moving average all the time. there is also a second one in the nav system that makes not one, but two sligthly different calculations... don't know the difference but there are within one tenth of a gallon apart.

    what concerns me is my mpg has actually been dropping since i got the car. it was about 16.6 when i got it which is bad enough since most people report low 20's (tho some "drive off the lot" and get 30) --- and now mine is down to 11-14 range. that's right. my average was 13.4 getting off the freeway last night. so i am not doing any math. this is real time.

    thanks for your post.

    best, patti
  • nkeennkeen Member Posts: 313
    I have about 2,300 miles on my 2006 325i with SP and manual trans. So far I'm averaging a little over 25 mpg on my commute (mix urban, suburban and highway). Last weekend I averaged 31.3 mpg on a trip to New England with the a/c on, 70 to 80 mph. I have seen a 34 mpg average over several miles, 65 to 70 mph with the a/c off. I don't know what the older technology coupe's numbers officially are, but from what I remember the E90 325i and 330i figures are comparable, so 11-14 sounds very low with that frame of reference.
  • rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    Reading some postings with average mileage of 25 and above will surly concern you on your new car. My current mileage of the 02' 325 AWD wagon gets around 19 in mixed driving on highway/local and 25 on straight highway. My 06' 330i gets 21 in mixed roads and 28 on straight highway. I've never got over 30 as some claimed and I don't really drive with a lead foot.
    If you are getting 16 during the break-in period, I think your mileage will improve as I had experienced. You may have a problem if it stays at this level.
  • pattiluvpattiluv Member Posts: 9
    thanks.... by the way, what was your break in experience? where did you start at in mpg, how long did it last, etc?
  • pattiluvpattiluv Member Posts: 9
    hi, wow, now that's what i am looking for, at least hoping for. let's be honest, was dreaming of, when i bought my car... at least something close to those numbers.

    would love to hear about your break in experience. did you by the car new? if so what happened when you drove off the lot and how has anything changed since then?

    thanks much, patti
  • rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    I recall that my 02 wagon used a quart of oil during the first 3,000 miles and never a drop since, but I don't remember the initial mileage.
    You may really want to make an issue if your mileage continues to be at 16 or under after a few thousand miles. Both engines in the E90 models are quite fuel efficient. Call BMW Customer Service if your dealer refuses to respond to the problem.
  • brianm4brianm4 Member Posts: 33
    I am thinking of purchasing a 325ci convertible and was wondering if the Bluetooth is useable with the top down. The dealer said it is, but might be hard to hear. Not that unusual, but how about with the top up, the convertible is louder then the coupe and I want to make sure I will be able to use my Bluetooth phone.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    The bluetooth works fine, either way... The car isn't noisy enough with the top up to have much effect.. The volume can go up as loud as the stereo controls, so you really shouldn't have any trouble with the top down, unless you are riding next to a semi-truck.. Not sure how good the voice recognition will be during high noise levels, though...

    The biggest thing is the battery drain on your phone, while connected to bluetooth. Unless you leave it plugged in while in the car, or have the charging cradle installed, it will go dead in a couple of hours...

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  • gio100gio100 Member Posts: 6
    I'm in the Boston area and would like a recommendation of a good mechanic. I need to replace my engine due to overheating and don't really want to spend $2000.00 at the dealer. Suggestions please...
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I need to replace my engine due to overheating and don't really want to spend $2000.00 at the dealer.

    Please give me the name of the dealer who will replace an M54 for $2000-I'll have them stick one in my Club Sport. :P
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I don't know if Hudson, NH is too far away, however, these guys do very good work for (relatively) resonable prices.

    http://www.3dautoworks.com/

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    He probably means a head gasket at that price. A replacement engine would be triple that.
  • canman1971canman1971 Member Posts: 61
    A couple times when it's been really hot, my temp guage would go up and I'd have to turn up the heat for it to go down. It immediately goes down and hasn't happened again. I called the dealer and asked them and they said it could be some air pockets in my lines. So I added water and the level never went down again. It happened once after I added the water, which was about 2 weeks ago and hasn't done it again and the fluid levels are fine. Should I be concerned? I did have to replace a reserve tank a couple of months ago, which is why he said there could be air pockest.
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