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http://www.zeckhausen.com/cdv.htm
Good luck!
I have the option of buying from Costco either two tires or all four. I will ask them as to whether they think my rear tires need replacement as well.
The Question I have is that the tire options I have are:
1. Michelin (Palace sport all season): $191 each
2. BF Goodrich (G4 Sport) $111 each
3. Michelin (Palace primacy): $194 each
4. Michelin MXM HX: $234.99
I do not drive particularly aggressive or anything. Any advise on which one I should buy?
I hope this is the right forum for this question.
thanks!!
My wife's E39 would illuminate the ABS and DSC warning lamps a couple of times per year. They'd always go off in a day or less, so I never got serious about troubleshooting the fault. It's probably a dirty or bad ABS sensor.
Also, right after that, my temp guage went into the red. My A/C wasn't on and it was only around 70 degrees, so it wasn't hot and my car had only been on for about 1/2 hour. I went to pull to the side after getting my coffee and I turned my heat on full blast and it went down immediately. Does anyone know what this could be?
It sounds like the cooling system was not bled properly after the expansion tank was replaced. The system may have purged itself, but you can't be sure. I'd keep an eye on the coolant level as well as the temp gauge for the next few days. If it gets hot again, take it back to the shop that did the work and request that the system be bled correctly.
Tirerack has a couple of differnet types of tires, but it is not easy to figure which one will give most tracction, lst longest, reduce road noise, minimizes wear and tear.
Finally, I am mighty supicious of advise from stores sites...
Any 325i owners who have replaced tires recently (or several times over the last 5-10 years) and are happy with the tires?
I don't see how the Tire Rack site could be any more user-friendly. There are numerous links which explain almost all of the "jargon" in almost elementary school terms. On top of that, there are tons of user evaluations as well as road/track test results. What more do you want?
Finally, I am mighty supicious(sic) of advise(sic) from stores(sic) sites...
Your loss; I have bought about a dozen sets of tires from Tire Rack with absolutely no complaints. Any advice they have provided has been spot on.
Thanks for posting this. I have the exact same problem on my '04 325i. The initial-engagement problems seems to come and go for no apparent reason, and it's embarassing when I have passengers in the car since I have always prided myself on my smooth shifting ability (driving most manuals for over 40 years). I'll mention it when I take my car in for service the next time, but I don't know what they can do to correct it while keeping the CDV in there.
I also have a problem on the 2-3 shift where the acceleration just after shifting is a bit jerky. It doesn't really feel like it's the clutch slipping (or at least I hope not!), and I was thinking it was something in the electronic engine management that is jittering, but maybe it's also CDV-related.
Anyway, it's nice to know that I'm not alone in having these problems. This is definitely the hardest car to shift smoothly that I've owned. Interestingly, the BMW motorcycles that I owned were also all pretty rough shifters compared to their Japanese counterparts. Go figger!
So far these tires meet my needs completely: a very quiet ride, plenty of stick for my requirements, and seem good in the rain. I could probably get away with them through the winter as well, but will go back to my stock 16-inch wheels & winter tires in the Fall. The only negative on them is that they are more affected by grooved pavement than the stock tires, but we have very little of that around here and it's not an issue for me.
Meanwhile, i currently have Z rated tires on my car, and almost none of the recommended option on the site were for Z tires. Any additional thoughts from people on the need to get myself Z rated tires since I am replacing only two.
However, since all four that I have currently are 225/45 ZR17s, I am wondering if I should mix and match. Will try to figure out.
Mixing tire brands is never a good idea; the result is almost always compromised handling.
If you live in an area that receives significant snowfall, the best thing to do is buy dedicated winter tires mounted on a second set of wheels. That way you can fit serious summer rubber on your stock wheels. It takes less than one hour to swap the wheels over in your driveway.
That said, if you want to go the all season route then the Pirelli PZero Nero M&S is an excellent tire. Other good choices would be the Avon Tech M550 A/S as well as the Kumho Ecsta ASX. I have run several sets of Kumhos on both my wife's 5er as well as my Club Sport, and I've been very pleased with their performance and longevity; they represent outstanding value as well. Note that all three tires have a W speed rating which exceeds the requirements for your car.
Thanks much for your thoughts. This sounds good. I have two Kumho Ecsta Super tires put in place by the previous owner and those are not the ones that require replacement. May be an opportunity to get more of the same. I will find out how the Ecsta Super is different from Ecsta ASX.
And I am guessing that W and Z are not very different. I will try to find out at TireRack.
- Shailendra
The letters refer to tire speed ratings. W means the tire is rated for 168 mph, while Z denotes a tire rated for 149+ mph. It's all academic really. Any tire rated H, V, Z, or W will be fine for your driving conditions.
As for the Kumho "Supers", are you sure they aren't Supras? If so, that is an excellent summer performance tire(I currently have a set on my 3 Series)- but it's not at all suited for driving in ice or snow.
The "Supers" are perhaps Supras then. I read it in under flash light one letter at a time . Hmm... I hope pairing Supras and ASX that you had recommended should be fine. I just do not want to spend the extra $250 at least that I would need to if I replaced all the tires. And it sounds like getting two more of the same will make it even worse in the snow. In am near Richmond, Va and luckily snow is sparse here.
Thanks Div2!
Stan
01 Z3 3.0L 5-spd
97 528i
Any clue what the recall fix was so I can do it myself?
Thanks for the help.
There's a triangular metal plate that holds the brake light switch in place (as well as what looks like a clutch safety switch). That metal bracket had come unscrewed from it's brace so the switch was just dangling there.
Screwed the plate back onto the body frame and it works like new.
Thanks again.
My reason for writing however, is to pass along a lesson I learned when I picked up the car. The shop owner brought my car around and parked it where I was standing near the front door. He shut the engine off, pulled the key fob out of the dash and handed it to me, which I placed in my pocket with another fob I brought with me from home. I immediately got in the car and put a fob in the dash and...nothing. I pushed the start button and got nothing. No click whir or whine. I switched fobs and got the same result. We went inside and he called one of his maint techs over (they do a lot of work on BMWs) and he tried and the car started right up.
I had to pass the BMW dealership where I bought the car on my way to work so I stopped there to see a service rep about the dead engine syndrome. He took both fobs and demonstrated that if I use one, pull it out and switch to the other without waiting about 60 to 90 seconds the car's security system will not recognize the new fob. Accordingly it will not start the car. If I immediately switchback to the first fob, same result.
Long story but could save someone a service call. When the car does not start after inserting the fob, the natural tendancy would be to go back and forth a few times with two fobs before assuming that the problem is with the car electircal or ignition system, but the rapid exchanging of the fob is enough to shut 'er down for a few minutes.
DTG
thanks!
This is my first BMW, and I must say I am rather disturbed by this use of oil!
Have purchased beautiful, brand new 330 ci --owned for two and a half weeks.
Mostly freeway driving, a little in-town stuff. Have been getting average 15 mpg on highway, tho this number is actually dropping! It drops to about 11 or 12 mpg sometimes.
Took it to a dealer -- who says -- right on paper --- "15 mpg" is normal. They say they checked emissions, computer, etc. and there is nothing they can do, it's in perfect condition.
I do not live in especially hilly, cold or hot area so have no reason to suspect unusual circumstances. Mostly flat where I drive and avg. termperature is mild 60's and '70's. And I drive conservatively, (especially during the break in.)
I am concerned about the following: In addiion to much higher fuel costs and inconvenience in having to fuel up, lower performance from car, and something wrong with engine, leading to shorter life.
Of course I am concerned, since others seem to be getting much better mileage --- and also this challenges my sense of fairness. I would also like to know if I am alone in this issue?
I would love suggestions/creative ideas as to how to proceed? Any ideas welcomed and appreciated from the BMW community.
The broker (who was great in all other ways before this) now says, "Well, it's a high performance car". So, he wasn't very sympathetic. He said, go to the dealer. I am at a little loss here for what next, but I suspect something is truly amiss in this whole situation. (And yes I even did a VIN check!)
Thanks in advance for any help,
Patti
I would suggest getting some more time and miles on the car, and then start bugging the dealer if your mileage does not improve to at least the high teens or low twenties. Fifteen mpg might be within what BMW would consider the "normal" range, but I wouldn't consider it "usual".
what concerns me is my mpg has actually been dropping since i got the car. it was about 16.6 when i got it which is bad enough since most people report low 20's (tho some "drive off the lot" and get 30) --- and now mine is down to 11-14 range. that's right. my average was 13.4 getting off the freeway last night. so i am not doing any math. this is real time.
thanks for your post.
best, patti
If you are getting 16 during the break-in period, I think your mileage will improve as I had experienced. You may have a problem if it stays at this level.
would love to hear about your break in experience. did you by the car new? if so what happened when you drove off the lot and how has anything changed since then?
thanks much, patti
You may really want to make an issue if your mileage continues to be at 16 or under after a few thousand miles. Both engines in the E90 models are quite fuel efficient. Call BMW Customer Service if your dealer refuses to respond to the problem.
The biggest thing is the battery drain on your phone, while connected to bluetooth. Unless you leave it plugged in while in the car, or have the charging cradle installed, it will go dead in a couple of hours...
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Please give me the name of the dealer who will replace an M54 for $2000-I'll have them stick one in my Club Sport. :P
http://www.3dautoworks.com/
Best Regards,
Shipo