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Comments
Based on my own experience-as well as those of several friends-UUC Motorwerks sells first rate products. And they stand behind them.
It only happens if I have to engage at a high rpm (1500 to 1800) like when I'm facing up hill and don't want to run into the car behind me.
From the painful description of your driving technique, I strongly suspect that you are responsible for any glazing/damage to the clutch.
my own logic has told me that due to the greater clamping force, the higher rpm's create too much heat, overheating the clutch causing it to create a glazed layer on the flywheel, which in turn causes this whirring/whining sound
Afraid not. Just out of curiosity, why did you install the UUC package? Was the OEM clutch worn out? How many miles were on the original assembly?
Thanks again.
A liter of coolant every 10K isn't great, but i don't think it's terribly unusual either. A lot of cars get the coolant topped off every oil change but with the changes so far apart, and the system so aggressive about notifying low coolant...
dave
The large nipple that the top radiator hose attaches to.
What am I looking at for repair costs should it be that?
Replacing the radiator is the only fix. I'd strongly suggest that you also replace the thermostat and thermostat housing while you are in there. I'd call it $500 tops.
I bought a BMW-certified pre-owned 325xi (2003 model) with 32k miles on it. Drove it 8 weeks, about 1000 miles. Had an accident, car towed to dealer's shop. Damage to front wheel and suspension.
Shop calls, says that once they got in there, they see the car needs a new clutch and flywheel, which insurance won't cover since the condition was not caused by the accident (pricetag: $2800).
I say: whoa, you sold me a certified used car with a clutch and flywheel that needed to be replaced, and you want me to pay for it?
They say: OK, we'll replace the clutch at no cost but the flywheel shows signs of misuse/abuse. Flywheels normally last life of the vehicle or at least a lot longer than 32k, so you have to pay to replace it.
I say: (i) I didn't abuse the clutch/shifting/flywheel etc.; (ii) I only had it 60 days anyway; (iii) if there was abuse, the prior owner must have done it.
Knowing nothing about the mechanics of this, I am hoping someone can tell me (a) whether what the dealer is saying makes any sense, (b) whether 2003 3-series is known for any unsual flywheel problems, (c) what's the life expectancy of flywheel on a reasonably-driven 3 series.
My guess is dealer didn't bother to look (or didn't want to look) at the clutch/flywheel when prior owner turned the car in, figuring the next buyer would come in after a few thousand miles and have to eat the replacement cost. Comments?
Also a clutch at 32K seems _very_ early, i'm on my original clutch at 113K miles, and i learned stick on the car.
dave
(a) Getting a free clutch is a good deal, as it's considered a wear item- which isn't covered under the CPO plan.
(b) BMW clutch/flywheel assemblies are known for their robust construction and longevity.
(c) I would expect that a properly driven flywheel would easily last for the life of the car.
In my ownership of 6 BMWs, I only have had a couple using oil during the initial break-in (about half of a quart after the first 1,500 miles as I didn't wait until it required a quart. They all run great. I think BMW produces the best and most reliable engines in the industry. Never had an engine using oil including the one after 165.000 miles!
If you've had the car only 8 weeks, and didn't notice any bad clutch problems, I don't see why BMW should hold you responsible on a CPO car. If you've been street racing, then you should 'fess up.
Is there any relationship between thermostat and quality of sound or emission. May be it is a separate issue.
I would appreciate if Shipo or some one else can help me with this.
Thanks
SIT.
The comment about the radiator hoses makes no sense, sorry. Hoses can only cause overheat if they collapse from old age.
You may need to go to a shop that knows what they are doing. Something this totally drastic can't be that hard to spot.
SIT
ps: If you were a deserving mom, would you be looking foward to owning these with as few problems as possible?
Thanks,
Charles aka cj
Yes. If you aren't track the car, I'd recommend going with the Deluxe Plus pad compound. It's an excellent choice for street driven BMWs.
cheers
cheers
I had a service coming up and got it checked by the dealer. I went for a test drive with a mechanic and he told me the sound is due to RFTs. At higher speeds the engine sound kind of masks it.
Thanks for your input.
SIT.
I did, indeed, install the PBR-axxis deluxe pads that Div2 mentioned in his response to you. I have had little or no dust. Just made a 2000 mile trip from Arizona to Minnesota and when I washed the car it took about three minutes to spray the wheels with soap foam and rinse them off. Clean as new! Slap them on, you won't be sorry.
I usually keep my cars a long time ('84 Saab 900T - 266k; 94 Volvo 940 290k). How many miles can I expect from my 323i, without spending a fortune to keep it running? The dealer's service manager said the engine and trans are "rock solid". I maintain my car by the book. Had "normal" repairs with the exception of a cam timing sensor and oil leaking into my cooling system (BMW thought it was a cracked head and replaced it under Certified PreOwned).
Is it possible to get 250K miles or shall I sell (current price $10-13.5k, car in great shape) and take the money and run and buy a newer 3 series.
Any suggestions/ info will be appreciated.
Unless just you want a newer car, I'd say keep it. The E46 has proven to be a very reliable model.