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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a 1993 Maxima and I'm having problems too! Usually I get 227 miles for a tank of gas, however I've driven only 60 miles since filling up last week and a half of a tank is gone already. The car doesn't smell like gas and I got the fuel pump and fuel lines replaced in July 2001. Also, I got an oil change and new air filters last week. Any guesses?
  • gtspecgtspec Posts: 55
    jortbals - maybe you want to check your "O2" sensors!
  • I just had a remote start installed on my 1996 works great when the car is warm but won't start the engine when cold (engine just turns over). If i start with key when cold, it starts with one click....what could be the problem ??? does anyone know ??? thanks in advance.
  • gslevegsleve Posts: 183
    additionally was there installed a new fuel filter perhaps spark plugs need be changed also, first check the 02 sensors there may be more than one on this car
  • hbe2hbe2 Posts: 4
    I have a 1996 Maxima SE. My engine light has been on for a few days so I took it to the dealer to have checked out. Outcome is both front 02 sensors are faulty (codes P0150 and P0130). I know from reading postings on 02 sensors, to replace with Bosch, not Nissan. Is replacing the 02 sensors something that I would be able to do?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    1. you forgot to mention this car's just been in a front end collision

    2. your question has been answered in the other place you posted it, the "Check Engine Light" forum.
  • skips2skips2 Posts: 52
    In August 1999, I purchased a new 2000 GLE for $26,300. I thought it might be helpful to post an update for those of you considering the Maxima. I now have 37,000 miles on my Maxima.

    The car drives like a gem. I love the car. I have encountered 3 problems with the car.

    1. During the first year, the automatic AC never seemed to get very cold regardless of how low I set the temperature. This seemed to be very noticable during my first summer of ownership. The dealer checked it twice and said it was normal. During the second year, it seemed fine. I guess, after constant use, the AC became more effective. During this last year, I have never since felt that the car did not cool down fast enough even on the hottest days.

    2. My car has traction control and on occasion the TCS light would come on and stay on until I turned the car off and restarted it. Of course, the dealer could never duplicate this situation since it only occurred on rare occasions. This is no longer a problem. It has not happened for at least 5 months. It seems to have self corrected itself or gone away.

    3. The paint chips very easily. Despite Nissan's claim that they test the chip worthiness of the Maxima's paint by shooting diamonds at the paint, it chips much too easily. I have never owned a car whose paint came off so easily. It's not a huge problem, but it does require frequent application of touch up paint. Stone chips often show bare metal. My 1988 Honda Accord has a much more durable paint job. Nissan's paint seems cheap and very thin.

    Otherwise this car has been great. I would definitely buy it again. I plan on keeping it for many years.

    Hope this helps.
  • Driving my new 2001 GLE, I hear Toyo A05 tire noise in the passenger compartment. It's especially noticible on the semi-rough concrete roadways in Dallas, Tx. I'm thinking of switching them to a BFG touring radial or similar. Any experiences or advice you can share with the group please?

  • tgif888tgif888 Posts: 351
    This is the infamous "Fuel Line protector" issue. It happenes in the 01 Max and I30. 01 Max owners had the dealer do the installation under warranty. Go ask your dealer to do it.
  • vanbo57vanbo57 Posts: 46
    Hello All. A while back I posted a question as to whether anyone with a 2001 or 2000 Maxima SE has a "thump" noise / sensation up front during maderate to hard acceleration. It feels like motor mounts. Not real "violent" really but I am wondering if this is normal - as the service manager said. Does not seem to affect anything. I've got 2K on the car and it runs great ('01). Otherwise, not a sqeak, rattle or anything unusual. The car is fast, handles great with those 17 inchers and the brakes are real good. Car had 2 miles on it when I drove it from the dealership. Thanks for any feedback.
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Posts: 313
    I have a 00 SE 5 speed loaded up and we love the car. I do have a question, I got the computer update for the fuel cut problem which now allows some fuel to engine below 1800rpms for smoother driving with a 5 speed. I don't use cruise much, but I did notice the other day that because of the engine running over 1800rpm at cruising speed (could use a 6th gear), it seems the cruise operation is somewhat jerky on 65mph flat roads where the throttle is barely open...a "on-off-on" sort of thing that is going to yeild less fuel economy and not be as comfortable as when I drive it manually.

    Has anyone else noticed this behavior, and is there a fix like the fuel cut?

    Thanks in advance.

  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Posts: 313
    CWMaxima - Just a quick note. The Max is a bit harder to drive smoothly if you have not done the 2000+ model computer upgrade that eliminates the fuel cut below 1800rpm. Prior to this fix, the engine would go from full compression braking (throttle closed) to slight power (barely cracked open throttle), which in traffic and such made for herky jerky driving.

    We got the fix and now the car is great. Yea, the shifter is not very sweet and the motor mounts allow a lot of transaxle movement that is transferred to the shifter, but the motor is buttery smooth and sometimes we forget to shift gears it revs so well. Never seen a car motor like it before.

    There are many message on maxima 5-speed problems in archived discussions, as this problem was solved by the TSB computer upgrade.

    Also, a trick to lower gear smooth shifts is to slighly use more throttle than you were using right before the shift, disengage clutch and let off the power, shift and keep going. The slight push before the shift carries you smoother into the next gear. Blip the throttle on downshifts and take it easy on the transmission. I don't get warm fuzzies about it feeling really bulletproof, but I just guessing at the feel of it. FYI My first car had a Hurst shifter and a Muncie M-21 tranny, so maybe I'm just used to more solid feel than this thing has!

  • kperkper Posts: 3
    Just a little note: My 2001 Maxima SE took a hit from an arrow-shaped bluestone thrown from a distant dump truck on I-95 in D.C.. It passed safely through the bottom opening of the front grill and into the air conditioner condensor (a soft aluminum radiator-size thing). Dealer charged $680 to replace it since it was road hazard damage. I might just put some rabbit wire in front of the new one, cause it will surely happen again!
  • vanbo57vanbo57 Posts: 46
    dirkdaddy, in your note (#433) you mention "motor mounts allow a lot of transaxle movement". Do you think that perhaps that is the "thump" feeling I get during moderate to hard acceleration in my '01 SE automatic? (see note #431 above).
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Posts: 313
    I have a 5 speed and no thumping even under accl., but I'd guess that the soft motor mounts might be an issue. I've never seen a shifter move that much but then again the car is very well isolated from the engine. The only way you could check is to have someone you trust behind the wheel, parked, hood open foot FIRMLY on brake, stand to side and have them load the motor a bit in Drive and see if you can recreate the noise. I have not done this but figure you see the motor move like 3-4" front to back. you can have dealer also check the exhaust and stuff to see if its banging on something when the motor moves, that's a good chance too.

    We got our car with 200miles on it, more than I usually would take but it still had nubs on the tires so I figured it hadn't been on any bonzi runs like I did in a similar car with a buddy on a test drive. They let me take home to htink about it and figure someone did that and had second thoughts.

    fyi - we looked seriously at the olds intrigue, but the rear seat was at a odd layed back angle, was not as sporty, and the headliner and interior fit and finish was lacking. Motor 3.5 was fantastic, about 3x the usable torque of the 3.0 nissan motor I'd guess ( I know it doesn't measure that way but it really jumps off the line and revs nearly as good. saw on boards problems with alternators and front end. Our nissan has been flawless except for the computer upgrade and the soft paint on plastic.
  • I've discovered a great teflon grease (white), which I purchased at a Marine Chandlery. It's waterproof, stainproof, and lasts a long time. Powerwindows sticky problems will be zippity do da!
    Can't remember the brand name, but should be available at any Marine store.
  • gtspecgtspec Posts: 55
    Can any other 2002 Maxima owners tell me what's their idling RPM? My 2002 SE is idling at 500~600 RPM and I think that's a little bit low, because I can feel the slight vibration through the steering wheel at idling speed. Is this normal? Thanks in advance !!!
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Posts: 313
    That idle speed seems normal. If you're used to a 4cyl, they usually idle at 1000rpm or higher. A shake at idle could be a partially clogged injector or bad gas. Try some better gas. That's my 2cents.
  • Your question of brakes - I have a '00 se and have not had to mess with them yet, so this is just answered in general not specific to the max.

    Fronts are larger on most cars, rears smaller, different.

    max has disks both front and rear.

    decellerating with by downshifting the engine puts more wear on the motor than it would brakes, and brakes are cheaper, that's the general rule.

    you don't want "economy" brakes. You have a nice car, make sure get quality pads. material used on brakes pads varies considerably, and that can affect performance and pad life both ways. If you are totally satisfied with the nissan pads and they lasted quite a while, you couldn't go wrong using them again. I got 65k on a set of dodge pads on my last car and I was so happy with them (and dissatisfied with a set of cheapo ones I got at a parts store for my truck) I gladly paid the dealer price for new ones.

    most all pads now are semi-metalic, and these harder pads last longer and handle heat well, but they heat up the rotors and warp them faster than the old designs.

    you can replace them yourself if you are semi-skilled and have some tools, pretty easy.

    good luck
  • gtspecgtspec Posts: 55
    Does anyone know if a 2002 MAXIMA SE comes with the wiring for the 6 disc CD-changer (trunk mount) pre-wired to the trunk, and can it control the changer? My is a 1 CD (2-DIN) base system, without BOSE option. Has anyone installed a trunk mount Nissan changer (made by Clarion) themselves? Thanks!
  • inemerinemer Posts: 44
    Can some body give me a good advice?
    We have 2000 Nissan Maxima. Starting last Sunday, when we park our car in a garage trunks open him self. Our bedroom right over garage and all night I can hear clinking sound of trunks opener. Their two new thing in our house that was not here before Sunday: water heater and cell phone. I have another idea; maybe a button on a key remote control from Maxima gets stack and that why trunks opened every 1 min. I will check this theory tonight. Any other thought?
  • I have an '01 SE automatic with just under 3K miles on it. The car runs well however here are a few things I'm observing and wonder if any of this sounds familliar to anyone. First: 1st to second gear isn't "crisp". It kind of "slides" from 1st to 2nd however, the car accelerates strongly - no power loss during the shift change. Second: the engine or tranny seems to "whine" a bit. Normal sound? Again - doesn't seem to be a power loss or slippage except for what I described above. Third: the engine sounds just a little out of time, I suppose mostly when cold but there is no rough feel as I think there would be if the car really was out of time. These are sounds from inside the car. If I have the window opened and I am next to a wall or something, the car sounds most sweet. Lastly, I am only getting somewhere between 18 to 20 MPG (premium 93 octane)in hwy / city type driving. I have a lead foot and when on highway am usually between 70 / 80 MPH. The car seems to run great and realy "goes" when I want it to. Are these "observations" of an overly critical ear? What do you think? I think I may be overly critical and these may be normal for this car. I am realy happy with the performance of this car, all in all. Thanks in advance for any feedback.
  • q45manq45man Posts: 416
    Remember the mileage estimates are for 55 mph cruise NO AC on and for non Ethanol or MTBE blend gasoline! So 80/55= 45% higher rpm so 45%/2 ...3 cylinders fire per revolution 22% worse at minimum due to higher speed not counting the aerodynamic load which requies more HP generation.
    As you get away from the optimized fuel economy point [2000-2500 rpm] the injectors are richen to lower the combustion temperature. Not unusual to see a 25-30% decrease in cruise mpg when going 80 mph vs 55.
  • That kind of thing can happen, as you suggest, if the remote control gets stuck or is accidentally hit, which might happen if the remote is in your pocket and you're not too far from the garage. Something similar happened to us a couple of times until we got in the habit of hanging our car keys on a hook by the door. No more problems.
  • I have a 5speed 2000 se, so I can't speak to the auto trans but we get 21-24mpg regularly in fairly bad traffic commuting mostly with the climate air running (Houston), but we are not leadfoots except on occasion. Sounds like your milage is typical. Keep tires aired up, and don't drive like such a manic and you should be able to keep it in the 20's.

    In fact my wife was squealing about my hitting WOT and rowing through the gears on this one short entrance ramp -- even though she was the one who wanted the Max the most. Now I think she would have liked something sleepy like the Avalon instead! After the baby, you know she's more conservative. Keep telling her "you don't have to slow for this corner"...
  • I just purchased a 2000/GXE with 14,800 miles, car runs great but I've noticed a few things that maybe I can get some info. on.
    1. CD starts to skip when heat is on (4-5song in), CD itself is very warm when ejected.
    2. I can't open the driver door (when locked) with the handle, must hit lock release first, can this be reset?
    3. Brakes work fine but seem to grind a bit, is that normal?
    4. Drivers side window squeals, what/where do I apply white grease?

    I got 24 MPG on my first tank, not bad for 2/3 hi way 1/3 city.

    Appreciate any help!
  • Thanks for your posts on gas mileage, etc.
  • Hi have a 2001 Nissan Maxima GLE. I don't know exactly what color it is, it looks like a champagne color. The paid is falling apart. I used a sponge to wipe bird poop off the hood and it scratched the paint or the clear coat terribly. This morning a washed the car off with water and in a separate place on the hood and there was a chunk of paint missing and it looks like is going to start to peel off. I have an appointment with the Service Director this afternoon to see if he thinks it is a factory problem. I have owned 2 Honda Accords, and Acura Integra and a Ford Escort Wagon that were 9 + years old when I sold them and none of them have ever had paint problems like this. I have always lived in the same city in the same neighborhood and have driven in the same conditions.
  • This paint problem which Nissan is having, and by the looks of it isn't going to do anything about, is all too disturbing. I have plans on placing a deposit on a 2002 Maxima, fully loaded, this Saturday and hearing all these paint complaints really worries me. I'm truly beginning to give the purchase a second thought. After all I have owned many cars in the past. As a matter a fact I have owned cars from all of the Big 3 manufactures and none of them had paint issues. This is my first Import and I really do like the Max I just don't want to be connecting the dots on my new $30,000.00 vehicle two months down the road.
  • I may not be fashionable for saying this, but if you want to minimize the paint problems be careful with the colors. The problem just described was on the gold car. It is a heavy metalic. Glacier Mist, Majestic blue and Merlot are probably more durable colors since the paint doesn't have such a heavy metalic content.
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