Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

jolar

Wain - you have received bad data on rotors, I mic'd my 02 SE front rotors at 1.08" there is no way they could be cut down to .767 - if they cut off 100 thousenths it would only be 9.020 er something. Sounds like the REAR thickness is .767 which would make more sense as it is a non-vented type, and receive a lot less strain than the fronts.

Personally I think the Max brakes are great, based on driving many rental mid sized cars each month like GM's and Fords that have mush for braking power.

Now the clutch on the other hand, I had to have the clutch disk replaced at 8k miles, no questions, in and out of the dealer, but not sure why, they told me there is a Tech Bulliten on this. So you 6 speeders out there, take note! I was getting vibration during downshifts, and a whine when pulling out in 1st or reverse.

blh7068

For the record my sunroof on my 02 SE doesnt leak, either.

This may have been brought up before, as i have only had my max for 6 weeks.

Love the car..but it is REALLY annoying that the driver can't activate the other three windows from the main control when the window lock is in place...after all, is it not the purpose of the window lock to keep little hands from playing with the other windows?

dirkdaddy

OK, apparently these roofs generally don't leak in a car wash. But it might depend on the car wash you are using, as well as how sealed your car is. Suggest try some different ones, the pressure might be a bit high at the one you use. I wash by hand here in Texas, as extreme cold is something we reserve for the beer cooler on the deck when we're not driving. (I went to school in Wester Maryland where it got plenty of ice and snow so I know about not washing your car for a few months except at the quarter self-wash)

Good luck

kbalch

blh7068 - I hate that thing! even our crappy explorer doesn't lock out the driver side window controls. And how about the cup holder in the front console? Don't ever buy less than a 16 oz cup of coffee unless you want to lose the cup in the cupholder...it even pops the lid off so you spill coffee trying to get the cup out.

Otherwise, I love this car. Smooth and quick. Have a 6spd, but haven't had any clutch issues yet w/ about 8800 miles on the car.

jolar

Yeah, no crap about the short cup thing, I dropped a 12oz coffee cup in there and lid scraped off on the way down, spilled of course.
But I like the flip lid, and the variable sized insert. Cans, 20z bottles and most other stuff fit fine.

aharmes

I am having a problem with my car. It is a 1995 with 106,000 miles on it. When braking and slowing to aproxx 10-15 mph, I hear a creaking noise around the left front wheel. It goes away when accelerating past 20 mph. Anyone have any similar problems?

yonghan

Intermittently my Maxima stalls while the engine is at operating temperatures. It occurs when I disengage the transmission and allow the engine's rpm to go to idle. Frequently, it'll dip below the minimum (or idling) rpm, run rough for a second or two and come back up to idling speed. However, sometimes while idling rough, it stalls. This has happened to me several times in the last year or so. The two most dramatic events were: 1.) While on the highway... I downshifted into 4th to pass someone then I disengaged the transmission into neutral. That's when my engine stalled. Was going about 70 MPH and straight. The engine started right back up but thank goodness that I didn't need to brake or steer. 2.) During a low speed turn. I was in fourth gear then disengaged the transmission to slow down and get into second for a turn. But before I could get into second gear, it stalled on me right in the middle of the turn. Obviously, I lost my power brakes and steering. I almost ran into a car at that intersection because my Maxima didn't want to turn nor stop.

The dealer that I go to, Devon Nissan in PA, can't find/reproduce the problem. They are telling me that there's nothing that they can do until they can reproduce the problem. I have contacted Nissan's Consumer Affairs and have started a file... We'll see if that helped get the dealer more motivated to find the problem.

Either way, both the dealer and Nissas USA HQ is telling me that this issue can't get escalated to Nissan Technical Support because the dealer can't reproduce the problem. These guys are going around in a circle assigning action items for others to do while my dealer is laying around with a thumb up their ..... But, actually, my dealer has been pretty good with service. I just wish they could figure out what's wrong.

The problem seems to be exacerbated by high temperatures and/or the AC being on.

Anyways, if anyone else has had these problems let me know or if you know the solution, I would appreciate a line. I am gonna give out my email address: yongihan@hotmail.com

Thanks for the ear!

jolar

Regarding your 95 Max, the mileage should be no major strain on these cars, but a few things that come to mind.
1. Chassis suspension lube joints may need to be filled (grease gun) Lower control arm bushings, think of it as all links that move have grease fittings, so if they're dry...Old fittings can bust thru with too much power, these guys that use air power grease guns need to be carefull!
2. CV joint boot could be ripped, torn, which causes dirt and crap to get there and degrade the joint, eventually will trash the CV joint. You can get a boot replaced if the joint is still ok. Go to a parking lot, make slow full hard left turns with your head out the window listeneing, a CV joint can complain a bit if it is going.
3. Shocks ok? (MacPhearson strut actually) 100k on originals could cause some creakin') Is the front bouncy?
4. Possibly worn brake pad, parts, disk brakes usually have wear indicators, but probably not that, as you would hear those at more range of speeds. But the back of a worn pad, the metal part can creak against the caliper.

So, the CV joint would be the worst case scenario, better, just a boot, but still a worthwhile repair - get 'em both done, if one is bad, the other may be close by.

Good luck!

Jolar

jdog368

Does anyone in here have a K&N air filter installed? If so, does it really make a difference? 45 bucks for an air filter...compared to 10 for an OEM.

thanks

georged98

jdog368:
I purchased a K&N air filter and really haven't noticed any difference. I paid around $42.00 but got the $10.00 cleaning kit free. They had a special deal at that time. Over time it might pay for itself but who knows.
It's the same thing with purchasing premium gas compared to regular gas. I tried both and didn't notice any difference except the added cost. I tried several full tanks of premium gas and compared my mileage with regular gas and no difference for me.
Maybe the best thing is just leave things alone and just enjoy the car without all those aftermarket B.S. wasting our money.

ccermak

Ditto on the K&N. I bought one ($55!) and noticed absolutely zero difference. It may help the mileage some, but how do you know unless you keep very detailed records both before and after. They do supposedly last forever, you have to clean them every 25K miles but you can keep reusing the same one. To really know you'd need to see a dyno chart of before and after with YOUR car. Keep your cash. Run the good gas though. The Max is designed to run on 91 or higher and definitely performs better with it. Does it work with 87, sure, but it will perform better with 91.

Seeya

q45man

You have to measure the resistance of air filters [determine the vacuum created across them with a manometer] at redline.
The since 1990 factory matches the size square area x number of pleats and depth of each pleat to approximate 1" W.C. at the torque peak rpm and less than 2" at redline.

2/28=1/14 of a PSI x6.6%= 0.0047142 or <1/2%.
So 1.3 HP improvement on 260HP with no filter installed say 0.6 HP with a clean K&N dropin.
If your Nissan has less power the gains are even less.
No air filter can help mileage any measurable amount since the more air the more gasoline you need to have the proper mixture!!!!!!
When carbs were used the control was almost non existant so air filters might have helped or hurt depending on the car.

When all a company makes is filters they will say anything that will sell their filters. Most people don't understand Physics [no Masters or PHD] so they have no methods of testing claims.
Lots of hype and convoluted test showing improvement that never happens, maybe 20 years ago when paper air filters were pretty bad but insignificant NOW!

ccermak

In laymans terms he/she means buy the cheaper stock filter and save your money for beer.

gtownguy

Hey guys, any techs out there that would know if i could increase the size of my oil filter. I have a 2000 maxima se and the oil filter is tiny. Its a 15208-9eooo. I also use a # 15208-60u00 for my 91 300z. Its bigger but they look like the same face gasket circumference. Is anybody using a bigger filter of another brand??
Any opinions or experiences welcome.
Thanks, Tom.

jazzermp

Hi, everyone. I'm new to the list. I am either buying a 99 or 00 Solara V6 auto or a 00 Maxima SE 5 speed on Tuesday. Asking price on the Maxima is 18,995 - car has 37K miles, deep green, moon roof, alloy wheels and moon roof - no other bells & whistles which is fine by me. For you Maxima owners/buyers out there, I'm going to offer $17,750. Edmunds says the average retial is $18,258. How does my price sound? Would appreciate any advice ASAP.

Thanks,
JazzerMP

smankow

I have a 2000 SE w/5 speed and this car has been nothing but trouble. I have just under 40K and here is a litany of repairs - 2 computer reprograms, 1 strut replaced, ignition coils replaced, 2 steering racks replaced, rear brakes at about 25K, front brakes at 39K due to pulsations. The car tends to lack power, has clutch slippage and gets pathetic fuel economy(under 20mpg). Has anyone actually had a Nissan dealer be able to duplicate a problem? I think that it is just like the "bad" insurance companies. They have a standard response of "could not duplicate problem". The car has been to two different dealers - Montgomeryville (clueless) and Thompson (tried to help but no luck).

I have had many conversations with Nissan but that only leads to more frustrations. I feel that the extent of repairs on this car had irreparably reduced the value of the car. Does anyone have any incites? I am trying to persuade Nissan to repurchase this dog.

Steve

cheerioboy26

Man, that sucks. I have an Auto 2000 SE, and have had none of the issues you've listed....just a TCM chip replaced via a TSB a while ago. Your mileage even is worse than mine - I'm just under 22 overall. But my wife drives it mostly...her lead foot is probably not as heavy as mine

What problems are youhaving right now - just the clutch?

smankow

besides the clutch, I still have acceleration issues, periodic hard starting (all unable to be duplicated by a dealer). This is on top of the poor fuel economy.

smankow

and my chip was never replaced. I was told that unless it was reprogrammed at least 3 times, Nissan would not pay them for the replacement.

ccermak

I have an 00 SE Auto with 37K and no probs besides a couple rattles, TCM module replaced under TSB, and two tail lights burning out. Why did you need 2 steering racks? Sounds crazy. I'm seeing good mileage, 24-25mpg on the highway at 70-75mph and upwards of 30 if I go 60-65mph. I got 32-33mpg on a 6 hour trip through Iowa and Omaha where the speed limit is only like 60 and I had the A/C on!!! Sounds like you beat the tar out of your car or something.

smankow

I needed the steering racks because the dealer couldn't stop a clunking sound. The one strut that was replaced and the first rack didn't solve the problem, but apparently the second one did. I have no confidence in Nissan service.

I drove to Vermont last year for skiing (about a 5 hour drive from Phila) and barely got 20 mpg with the cruise set around 65. I drive the car but don't beat it up, by any stretch of the imagination. I've spoken with others in this area with 5 speeds and all have had more than their fair share of problems. I have made sure that all scheduled maintenance has been performed. The rear brakes wore out before the front supposedly due to some valve that keeps the car level, even in heavy braking. It sounds like BS to me.

In a recent conversation with the service manager, who stated that several TSB's have been issued for the Maximas, asked what problems that I have had. Once told, he stated that I have had just about every one. So much for the superior quality of Nissan vehicles.

Steve

ccermak

Sounds like you were just plain unlucky. I think most people have better experiences than you with their Maxis. I plan on keeping mine for the long haul for financial reasons. I'm rolling the dice and seeing what happens. You can draw the short straw with any car/brand. Trade it in and run. Buy a Lexus if you want less probs and better service, premium price though. My .02

96_i30_5sp

Sorry to hear about your problems but I think you are just unlucky. I also have a 2000 SE 5 spd that is close to being perfect. No failures of any kind so far and mileage is as expected (21-22 in city, 28+ on highway trips). Still on original brakes and tires and I don't baby the car (frequent 5k rpm) but I maintain it well myself. Always starts on the first try and the clutch is solid. I am on my 5th Nissan if you count my I30 (also 5spd).
There could be simple reasons for your poor mileage, like underinflated tires, dirty air filter, larger aftermarket wheels, etc. Sounds to me like you have an incompetent dealer who has replaced one too many parts but failed to properly diagnose the problem. At this time you are probably too sour to objectively accept a fix, so I would advise you to just move on to another car. Again, sorry for your troubles and good luck with your next car!

sm69

I purchased a 6-spd Maxima 2003 couple of weeks ago and very frastrated by acceleration in all lower gears.
Put it this way: after I managed to start car together with other cars on traffic stop, everybody, even Saturns are pulling ahead until I reach at least 4th gear. Even revving engine to 4-5K in first two gears and releasing clutch before engine slows down doesn't move you any faster then the LeSabre on your side. But then while I'm between gears he moves ahead leaving me in the dust. Am I doing anything wrong, is there a magic shifting technic to move faster without killing my clutch and tranny?
Or anything wrong with the car?
So far it's nothing but frastration and 25K debt...

dirkdaddy

Sounds like you should have test driven the car more before buying. Also, I think I would go easier on a car that is still very new and needs some breakin. Get 5000miles on it before you start flogging it like a draft horse.

But I know what you mean as I have a 00 5 speed. To get the car really moving like for blasting off, you'll need to sort of slip the clutch a little bit revving the motor up slightly at like 2000-2500rpm and you can engage enough to spin the tires. Once you get through 1st just shift normally. Its sort of like riding a japaneese motorcyle - the revving motor and shifting. Shift points need to be pretty high but use your seat of pants. You can sort of feel the engine surge as it gets into the powerband. This motor is made to rev, so don't worry until you are close to redline. Of course this abuses the clutch a bit, so don't do it all the time. Your gas milage will also be terrible if you race around all the time. If you wanted a torque monster that really would go off the line, try a Pontiac Gran Prix with the supercharged 3.8, then change the blower pulley and you have about 300 hp with tons of torque. I almost bought one but the wife hated it.

The reason this feels slower than say, a lesabre, is that the max motor is a horsepower motor and has little low RPM torque. I can't tell you how many times I stalled the car when we first got it and I've driven clutch cars for over 20 years. The engine is so quiet was reason I had a hard time judging what was going on, but anyway, the prior Dodge Turbo I had you didn't have to touch the gas to get it moving, just engage the clutch. Max motors just don't make power down low.

FYI, I have driven more than a few manual cars and the max was a compromise for us, but I really wonder about the strength of the clutch and pressureplate, the shifter and gears holding up to rough useage. They feel like they are from a Sentra, but maybe I'm wrong. My first car had a Muncie m-21 with a Hurst 4 speed, so maybe I'm too used to overkill american gearboxes. I go easy on my Max and only jam gears occassionally when I need to haul.

DD

sgrd0q

the max motor is a horsepower motor and has little low RPM torque

Maybe compared to a V8, I agree. But try driving an RSX-S or an S2000 - hardly any torque under 6K RPM, from which point on the engine wakes up!

sgrd0q

By the way, not being able to out accelerate a Saturn with a 6 speed Maxima is a misdemeanor punishable by revoking stick shift driving privileges.

sm69

That's a nice one, sgrd0q
Sorry if I was not clear enough. I know I can outperform Saturn by sleeping clutch and starting with hight RPMs and so on. I've done it once - that's fun for sure. But I expected new Max to outperform others by better engine, not by raving it to red line or by burning tires, as any chipper car could have done.

96_i30_5sp

That is a very unusual complaint about a Maxima. Your car is faster than almost any other sub-$30k car on the market and you can't pass a Saturn?! A very easy way to find out if something's wrong with your car is to drive comparable ones. Don't tell us you didn't drive a few cars before buying this one. I have no problem leaving most cars in the dust at stop lights and I have only the 222hp engine.

sgrd0q

sm69 - you need time to get used to any new car's particular clutch, gears, feel etc. This can take from a few weeks to a few months even for proficient drivers.

See, the problem is that you need to feel all aspects of the car. Lets say you start out clumsily, bog down the engine, now you are behind even slow cars that are not even racing you. So you compensate by proceeding to red-line, and barely overtake them, and you think to yourself - gee it took so much out of this car to even keep up with the rest.

The problem is that someone with an auto transmission (or a good driver familiar with their stick shift) can extract performance uniformly throughout the acceleration, whereas you got very little initially and a lot subsequently, achieving more or less the same effect.

So if I were you, I'd go carefully about it, I'd try to get a good feel of the car, and over time I'd be able to extract uniform performance - whether it is very smooth and slow acceleration, normal driving conditions acceleration (by the way beating most other cars, without even trying too), or really aggressive acceleration.

Oh, and of course, make sure there's nothing wrong with your particular car - go and test drive a similar one at your dealer.

besanch

I have a '00 maxima (auto/loaded), love the car but hate the maintenance so far. Had a '90 before that which was much more reliable. Rotors turned twice already under warranty (12K and 20K), 3 ignition coils under warranty, ABS module under warranty, rear windows "greased" twice due to squeaking during operation, new tires needed by 20K and it goes on. I know the rotors are soon to be gone and I have 39K so this will be my bill to pay, and the tires will need to go again in a few thousand. I have never had a 3rd set of tires on a car at 40K-50K!

I don't drive this car hard and its' mostly highway driving so it gets good mileage (25 avg)but I must say it surprises me how this car needs the TLC more than my last one.

I'm now out of warranty and am thinking about dumping it due to worry about cost over the next few years. Wife has a honda, I can't believe I am thinking of going down that road.

That's my gripe, sorry for the negativity since I am a maxima supporter but I hope the '04 really turns the corner on quality and reliability.

sm69

Thank you everybody who responded. I was kind of afraid to break the engine by raving (no smiles, please), but after reading your replies I pushed Max to higher rpms before upshift and it really made a huge difference. I definitely need to learn shifting in different manner.
And no, I didn't test drive any other car except Max. I got a masculine-looking 6-cyl/4-dr mid-size family sedan with manual tranny and [non-permissible content removed]. reliability and I got all of that for $$ which will make me smile years from now. I also got great mpg, HID headlights - would satisfy light tower in midnight storm, and 17'' alloys. Have you heard 'bout other car like that without Nissan badge and Max reputation? Good luck searching for one )

georged98

sm69:
Are you burning regular gas?? I have tried several tanks full of premium and the acceleration from start is much better with premium gas. With regular gas I notice a lag when I accelerate from start. Once I get rolling, I feels the same with regular or premium.

smankow

as if my other problems weren't enough with my 2000 Nissan minima, I went to try to unload the car and was reluctantly offered 13K for the car. Yes, in two years the car dropped over 50%. So much for Nissan quality and its ability to maintain its value. This car remains the worst vehicle that I have ever and hopefully will ever own.

Steve

sm69

I didn't see a difference between 87 and 93 so far, I wonder if other people did. It definitely made a big difference in my old car - when going up into the very long hill it would start knocking sooner on low octane, forcing you to downshift. If I remember the theory from collage, the octane ratio should not make difference until you reach detonation condition determined by cylinder compression ratio and temperature, otherwise any gas produces the same amount of energy. In the Max knock sensor may be sophisticated enough to reduce gas flow into the combustion chamber once knocking starts but before you realized it. Could this explain your faster acceleration on better fuel?

nissangirl

I bought mine in June '99, I have 35k on it, and have never had a problem....well, except the bug guts I can't seem to remove. I have had oil changes, one air filter replaced, and new tires..that's it. This is my 3rd Max. Maybe I've been lucky, but I remain a faithful Max Girl.

By the way, what is the best product to remove bug insides off my Sterling Mist, that won't hurt my finish? Also, does anyone know Zaino's web address?

gg2k2se

Good job sm69 on getting the performance. Nothing wrong with driving it a little hard. I borrowed my friend's "Gtech Pro"; it's a nifty little accelerometer that plugs into you power outlet and measures 0-60, HP, 1/4 mile times. I could consistently get 6.6 0-60 with my 6 speed.

nissangirl - zainobros.com. I like their stuff.

Also, on the main max board, I reprinted a recent article on the reasons to use premium gas, it has me convinced it's worth the price.

dirkdaddy

I know this is Off Topic but related to 0-60 discussion watch out for those new 03 accord v6's, they are supposed to be faster than the Max even the sticks. I can't remember the times, but they were in the low 6 sec range I belive.

I know what the guy was talking about, if you just engage the clutch and ease on the gas and don't give it a lot of throttle, the car does seem slow in the lower gears. To really get the power going as everyone knows, you have to really wind it up like a motorcycle motor.

I've only had a 02 sensor go on my 00 max SE, but sometimes the motor is hard to start for a new car. I figure its because its tuned for so much horsepower.

nissangirl

That is all I have ever put in my Max, or any of my other Maxima's. They have all been great vehicles, and I keep coming back for another. Like I said a few messages up, I'm on my 3rd. My first was an '88 and loved it, kept it 8 years, then a '96, loved it too, but when I saw that new body on the 2000, I had to have it. My husband just bought his 2nd Pathfinder, he had a '93, kept it for 9 years, and he just got an '02 LE and loves it.

nissangirl

Can anyone recommend a really good product for removing guts that have been baked on to the front nose that won't hurt my finish? Help!

blh7068

the service engine soon light on my 02 max stays dimly lit when the car is running. At start up its bright for the time its supposed to be on but does not completely go out afterwards. What would cause that?

smankow

I tried a few tanks of "plus" grade gasoline. The car knocked like a diesel. Nissan only "suggests" premium fuel in its owners manual but in reality requires it. My car didn't necessarily run any different with the plus other than the knocks. The other problems, such as poor acceleration, clutch slippage, fuel cutoff, poor fuel economy, etc. still existed.

dklanecky

You need to dump your Max. There's no reason to put up with such a terrible example of the breed (FOR WHATEVER REASON).

I have a 00 SE (Auto) with 104,500 miles. I will occasionally run a tank of mid-grade but 90% of the time use premium. (Some days I feel cheap!) I have no issues with knock but do notice a slight drop in performance and gas mileage with the lower octane.

My 17" OE BS Potenza's were replaced at 90k. Had right front strut replaced under warranty at about 30k (premature failure). New Front and Rear brakes at 101k. (Still had 20% pads front but it was close to time with the miles I drive every week). This maintenance history is very similar to my other Max (95 GLE with 190K).

That's it for 104.5K on the 00 SE.

nissangirl

I think you got a "lemon" from the start. Apparantly, the Japanese were partying the day your Maxima was produced.

Please, trade-in or sell it for whatever you can get for it. We are all sorry for your horrific experiences you have endured.

Good luck!

pegasus17

Sounds unbelievable for tires rated at 160/A/A; I would hope to get ~30k on my BS RE92 OEM tires. What's your secret?

pegasus17

I am thoroughly enjoying my 1-week old 2003 Maxima SE (auto) and appreciate your data on the tires. Didn't hear much good, prior to your post, about the OEM BS Potenza's. I browse this site to gain insight into potential problem areas for my new vehicle (but am not obsessive about it). I shopped a long time before deciding on the MAX (over Camry, Accord, TL) and have no regrets (so far). Nothing I've read on here troubles me too badly, also. Time will tell as i intend to keep this car for a long time! Thanks, again...

dklanecky

Honest, 90k (OK,it was actually almost 93k but I do use dedicated snows on another set of wheels in the worst of winter, probably 4k total on the snows).

My daily drive is between 60-75 miles each way, 90% on the tollway at speeds of 75-85 mph. Been doing this for the last 7-8 years and 90k is almost exactly what I got on the 95 Max's original Eagle GSA's and on the Dunlop D60A's that replaced them. Now have Bridgestones (forgot the model) on the 95 but my wife drives it now so it will be lucky to see 5k per year. She'll probably use them up faster.

I am very careful monitoring tire pressure at least weekly. When I got the new Michelin Sport A/S's on the 00 SE I had the Smart tire system installed as well (both from tirerack.com).

It reads tire air pressure and inside air temperature on each tire and sends it over to a wireless receiver in the car. Works great!

Now I can check constantly if I really feel the need. I don't :-)

I know it all sounds a little "excessive" but with the miles I drive, at the speed I drive, and where I drive every day, tires are the only thing between me and the road! I'm always looking to reduce my daily commuting costs which is why I drive the Maxima's!

sgrd0q

AHA!!!

Fianlly someone who's tried the Michelin Pilot A/S! dklanecky, any input will be greatly appreciated - handling, noise, wear, etc. I am about to buy these. Thanks!

dklanecky

S,

I shopped long and hard for tires and finally went for the Michelin's based primarily on the tests of High performance all-season tires at Tire Rack.com.

I couldn't justify the tread wear that I would experience with high performance summer tires based on how I really drive every day (as opposed to how I wish I could drive:-).

Compared to the OE Potenza's, I think they're at least 15-20% better in handling and the traction on wet surfaces is probably closer to 30-40% better.

I don't do any serious competition type driving but do like to take advantage of the entrance and exit ramps off the tollways.

I've never been a real "fan" of any particular tire manufacturer but these are good enough to maybe change my mind.

The 17" size on our Maxima's just isn't available in too many tires regardless of price but I thought these offered the best compromise of performance and durability.

I'm up to about 11,500 miles on them and I still like them a lot. No visible wear and they do let you know (audibly) when your pushing them too far. Otherwise I never hear them at all.

tr3

I have a 2002 GLE and the paint is flaking off the hood already. It bubbles up and then flakes off. Just got word from Nissan that is was not their problem and will now fix it. The Service Manager said it was caused by foreign matter. I have over 30 places on the hood. Anyone else have this problem?