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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • jpellijpelli Posts: 13
    Sorry, I misunderstood your post #1457. Thanks for taking the time to check out the PL14610 filter at your Discount Auto Parts stores. Can you imagine the frustration of you finding it in two of your stores and I can't find it anywhere locally or on the World Wide Web! I even have Discount Auto Parts stores all around me and none of them have it yet. How can they have it in Florida and not here. That makes no sense to me. Anyway, I think they will eventually get it. I'll just have to wait. Thanks again for your replies.
  • metro13metro13 Posts: 3
    you should be able to find the PL14610 oil filter at any Strauss Auto. i picked one up the other day and put it on. let's see what we hear.
  • merlionmerlion Posts: 39
    Initially I wanted the K&N air filter, so that I can reuse the air filter later. But on reading the forums at & the instructions on how to re-oil it, it become apparent to me that I am likely to screw up my MAF sensor after that. And I have to go to dealer for repairs.

    And no increase in performance & abt 6 times more expensive than Nissan OEM air filter, possibly waste time at dealer, what gives ?! :(

    What is the point of having it then ? so that I can get more trouble with my car/engine ?
  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    I think in some cases certain vehicles are capable of noticing a slight increase in performance and/or mileage by going to a K&N. Tests prove it does filter out more stuff while letting more air pass through, I just don't think it makes much diff in our Maxis. I've had mine for over 2 years and have had no MAF probs. I think that's only an issue if you WAY over oil the filter. Overall it's about a wash. I do get great mileage if I keep it under 70mph on the highway, like 28mpg or even better at like 60-65mph, but who does that anymore????
  • abfischabfisch Posts: 591
    To everyone of you that have these problems, I had similar ones and went through 1.5 years of dealer, corporation, and others.

    His the the solution to all.

    1. After they tell you they cannot find it, and have checked the tires and wheels numerous times, do the following.

    2. Document your visits. Then take the FRONTS rotors off, and have a certified mechanic, NOT THE DEALER, put it on a lathe, and test for runout, not just on a micrometer. You will most likely find that after the tires and wheels, it its a crapy, OEM, front brake rotors that is either out of round, or whose runout is terrible. Replace them with a quality rotors (NOT OEM) such as a powerslot rotor. You will notice IMMEDIATE IMPROVEMENTS.

    Hope this helps.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    02 SE - I'm currently on my 4th CD player. This one seems to work perfectly. One of the replacements had the same error you have and it was straight out of the box.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    While it is true that defective rotors will contribute to overall wheel imabalance and shimmy, they by themselves will not make it very pronounced, unless they are extremely poorly made and very imbalanced. A good quality rotor or brake drum will be balanced at the factory. Normally they spotweld weights on brake drums and remove metal from the edge of the rotor to balance them.

    One reason why rotors get distorted is improper tightening of lug nuts. You have to torque them to specified torque, not have some kid at some tire store use an impact wrench and tighten one lugnut to 200 ft-fbs and the other four to 65. I do not allow anybody to tighten my lugnuts with an impact wrench. I ask for the lugnuts to be handtightened and torqued to proper spec.

    Incompetent wheel balancing and shoddy tire quality are the biggest problems causing vibration and shimmy. When was the last time you saw somebody balance your tires to 0.1 oz (approx 3 gram) accuracy? And when was the last time you had them mount the wheel on their balancer using a flange adaptor instead of a centering cone? Flange adaptors made by Haweka Co. are used by professionals to properly center the wheel by its lug holes on the balancer. Professionals also claim that 0.1 oz accuracy is required for proper wheel balance. Yet almost all commercial balancers are set to 0.25 oz found-off mode (or 5 gram for metric weights) because standard wheel weights come in .25 oz or 5 gram increments. Nobody bothers to clip weights for better accuracy anymore. Given these choices, you are still better off with 5 gram roundoff vs 7 gram (0.25 oz). Remember that only metric wieghts come in 5 gram increments.

    I have wheels on my vehicles balanced wrong so many times that I am positively disgusted. I finally found a few places that can do it fairly well and none are tire store chains.
  • mirthmirth Posts: 1,212
    knock on wood that four's a charm for you. Hope I don't have that kind of problem.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    The last radio is excellent. I know there's a mileage limit for radio replacement but I don't know what it is. I got the 4th one at about 13k miles. Each time I called they wanted to know how many miles I had on the car.
  • 530bmw530bmw Posts: 130
    I have a 95 Maxima with a problem with the fan/blower. When I set the fan between 1-3 it does not work, but it works at 4. I believe it is the resistor that causes the problem. Does anyone know where the resistor is? Is it hard to get to and replace it myself?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The blower motor resistor is mounted next to or behind the blower motor. The blower motor is located under the passenger’s side of the dash panel, attached to the bottom of the intake unit.
  • 530bmw530bmw Posts: 130
    thank you for your help.
  • mirthmirth Posts: 1,212
    Radio is included in the standard 3 year/36,000 miles. All the electronics are.
  • hennehenne Posts: 407
    2002 Maxima. You can shake the stering wheel and it sounds and feels like you are banging 2 pairs of pliers together and when you go over bumps you can feel it and hear it also. It even has a shimmy sometimes going down the highway related to that popping noise. The dealer says that play and noise in the steering is normal and I have a real hard time believing it. He said after 25k or so miles it will do it. Sounds like a bad design, not just accept it. Anyone else with this problem?

    Nissan is calling them to investigate.


  • hennehenne Posts: 407
    My stereo cuts out on the left side with playing CD's only. I saw earlier that others had the problem and was wondering what was the solutions? My dealer said it was a bad front left speaker, but my confidence is gone in them. I have not picked up the car yet since I am still having other issues.


  • I have a '93 maxima, has been a wonderful car, i just started having problems in the mornings. When i start the car in the morning and put it into reverse it will stall. then when i finally am able to drive forwards it shifts heavy into first and second gears. it then repeats the heavy shifting as i come to a stop. when stopped the car shakes as if it is going to stall, it doesn't. then when i take off it shifts like when i first learned to drive a manual. The problem seems to go a way after the car is able to warm up or get going. driving it 50 mph for a few miles seems to eliminate the problem for the rest of the day. does anyone have any ideas for me? i have been to the dealer and a mechanic and they can't get it to duplicate the problem. does that just mean they have no idea?
  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    Have you kept up on servicing the tranny? Meaning changed the fluid every 30-60K miles? How's the fluid level right now? I'm no tranny guy, but sounds to me like it's on its way out. At 11 yrs old that'd be my guess. Could be fuel related too for rough idle and what not, but if it's shifting hard then that seems tranny versus fuel pump. We need p100 to give you some ideas, he seems rather technical. p100??
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    The left side speaker problems I think began with 02's. The problem is typically with the radio, not the speakers. If your am, fm, and cassettes all play fine with all speakers working, then it's the radio not the speakers. The only solution is to replace the unit. The nissan mechanics can't fix them. Bose just keeps sending them out. A few posts back I mentioned this, but I am currently on my 4th cd player. That's right, number 4! This one works fine. They put in one that didn't even turn on. Another one would just stop playing in the middle of a cd, then pick up about 10 to 20 seconds later.
  • hennehenne Posts: 407
    That what I told the dealer, but they want me to try it first. I hate CD changers. Give me a indash cassette and single CD anyday.
  • new2maxnew2max Posts: 1
    I bought a 2000 Maxima 5 days ago. Everything works great. The only problem I have had is the fuse that pertains to the interior lights and the auto door lock switch has blown out twice within these past 5 days. I'm bringing it back to the dealer, but I was hoping someone here might have a suggestion...or perhaps they've had to deal with this problem themselves.
    Thanks in advance of your suggestions! JM
  • mirthmirth Posts: 1,212
    Got my (single disk) CD Player replaced on my '02 GXE Friday. Seems to be working okay, knock on wood.
  • I bought a 2003 GLE that I am beginning to hate. The way the cars take everyday bumps and joints is very harsh and loud (new tires may help I know) yet the rear suspension wallows over dips in the road mercilessly. I just got back from a vacation where the car had 3 adults and their luggage and the car's rear suspension bottomed-out at least two dozen times over 800+ miles. I DO NOT drive this car real hard. Two dealers have told me they checked the car and that's just the way they are. Any other experiences (good and bad) out there??? I'd be willing to pay for suspension modifications (better than trading out of the car) if it would help, any suggestions here? Thanks.
  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    You could change tires, put in a rear sway bar to help handling, and go to stiffer springs like Tokicos or some other aftermarket brand. Try that other board I won't mention anymore and search in the 5th gen forum on suspension mods.
  • leroyb3leroyb3 Posts: 3
    My 99 SE has been running great (125k miles), but recently the car has had a rough idle, almost as though it has a heartbeat. It runs well for a few seconds, then shudders. This is repeated over and over. The dealer has had it twice. At first they could not replicate the problem (but charged me the $80 bucks for the diagnostic). The second time they cleaned the fuel injectors and replaced the fuel filter and sent the car back to me. The "heartbeat" started again last week. Anybody had a similar experience? Could it be a airflow problem? I haven't noticed any loss in power when accelerating. Thanks for the feedback, this board is great!
  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    I've heard a dirty throttle body can cause a somewhat similar behavior. It will idle up and down as opposed to steady. I'd think your dealer would've tried cleaning it though if they suspected that with their $80 diagnostic. It is supposed to be a routine maintenance procedure, at least once in every 100K miles. Cleaning it is something that can be done oneself if motivated and mildly mechanical. What about plugs/coils? Have you had those replaced lately?
  • leroyb3leroyb3 Posts: 3
    I just had the plugs changed (platinum) and the throttle body was cleaned about 30k miles ago. I'll check and see if there is a build-up there.

    thanks for the feedback.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    If you had a coil problem, you would most likely experience noticeable miss upon light acceleration. In absence of this symptom, I would suspect a problem with one of the sensors - either mass airflow sensor, or throttle position sensor, as well as posibility of contaminated throttle body passages.
  • sglatorsglator Posts: 20
    I had similar symptoms on my 99 Max (at about 63K miles).
    They found ignition coils to be defective and replaced all of them. The problem disappeared right after.
  • Just a thought on the heartbeat issue. My dealer warned me about changing spark plugs on my 00 Maxima SE.

    Apparently the ignition coils are directly on top of each spark plug and are somewhat fragile (read can be broken or damaged with rough handling).

    Any possibility that the coils are going (are) bad?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    What precautions do they suggest for removing the ignition coils? I have not changed the sparkplugs on my 98 SE yet, but I am about to do it. I believe that the coils merely slip over top of each plug. To see if individual coils are good, I would test the primary and secondary side of each coil with an ohmmeter (do not know exact spec, but typically it is a few ohms for the primary side, and 20-30kiloohms for the secondary. If one has a high voltage ohmmeter (megger) there is also an insulation test that can be done on each coil.

    Anything can be damaged by rough handling, including spark plugs. If you crack the spark plug insulator during installation, you will get a bad miss.
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