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Toyota Camry Maintenance

toyota24toyota24 Posts: 4
edited March 2014 in Toyota
I have a 95 camry v6le which is coming up on a 60k
mile service. Its not under warranty anymore. So does it make
any sense to take it to the Toyota dealer for 60k miles
service? Dealer quoted about 1500$ (in California).
Is it really that high?

I am thinking of getting a quote from Jiffy lube,
Pepboys etc...? any advice on who is better?

So far i 'diligently' took this car to dealer for
every service/maintenance. No mechanical or any other
problems so far.

thanx a great deal for your advice.


  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    This is what I did. At 60k timning belt, drive belts and platinum plugs. Your oil etc should be on your own schedule. Air filter every 15,000-30,000 miles. Transmission every 30,000. I went to and ordered all of the parts from them, genuine Toyota at wholesale prices. Local mechanic I use put them on at about a $500 savings over what the dealer wanted for labor only. No other maintenance is required at 60,000 and do not let the dealer or anyone else talk you into it. I have 128,000 on my 92 Camry V6 SE (same engine as you have) At 120,000 I did the same thing and added the water pump replaced. For belts etc, I would really try to use genuine Toyota parts, my experience is that there really is a difference especially in brake pads. Timing belt at dealer here is $180 (parts & labor) add two more belts ($50) plugs $60-70 + labor) transmission service $30, you can do the air filter yourself.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    You should also have the brake hydraulic system flushed to remove the moisture-contaminated fluid. It's probably the most neglected service.
  • pilot13pilot13 Posts: 283
    Is there anywhere in the entire Town Hall where you haven't posted this nonsense about sludge?
    If your motive, with all this frustrated bad mouthing about Toyota, is simply to make them look bad, you have taken the wrong road.
    Unfortunately (for you at least), you've accomplished nothing in that regard. The finger of suspicion points toward you, not poor old Toyota.
    You have yet to learn that in situations like yours (real or otherwise--and in this case, otherwise), the first casualty is most often the truth!
    Take some advice---give it up!
  • edwardh5edwardh5 Posts: 130
    When is everyone changing their radiator hoses? I did the top one at 80,000 and it looked great (7 years).

    I found a Goodyear hose from Autozone to be the same length as OE, but the Gates hoses and NAPA hoses were about 1/2 inch shorter on each end, but still fit on , I did not use them.
  • boagboag Posts: 14
    I believe that what post #3 was outlining was in the ABS system. The fluid should be changed every couple of years. Some makes state this in the owners manual some don't, but it's cheap insurance.

    I'm a little new to the problem of the sludge, however, I know my sister had a problem with oil pressure on her camry (4 cyl) and I told her it looked like a sending unit or bypass problem. My mechanic was out of town for the holidays so she took it to the Toyota garage. They told her it was sludge and charged her close to $700. She then drove back to her house (approx 200 mi) and she had the same problems. Her maechanic replaced the sending unit and the problem disappeared. Just recently my wife has had friends who have been told by Toyota that they need the sludge removed from their engines. Seems to be a pattern.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,555
    I hope it's not too late, but...

    I would NOT take your Toyota to one of the "mass merchants" you mentioned!!

    1500.00 sounds way too high, I would check other Toyota dealerships.

    You might also look for a quality independant that specializes in Toyotas.

    armtdm's advise about buying your own discount parts and then bringing them to a shop to have them installed is a bad idea.

    Most shops would either refuse the work or charge you additionsl labor to make up for the profit they didn't make on the parts. Not a good way to establish a relationship with a shop.

    Kind of like bringing your own ham and eggs into a restaurant, and asking them to make your breakfast!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Excellent advice about buying cheap parts then getting them installed. In the event of a part failure, who warranties it if the shop hasn't made the profit from the sale of the part? They can't return it to a supplier and get a labour credit.
  • thanx for all your suggestions.

    My dealer said he will provide warranties on
    the parts that I get, IF they are genuine toyota
    So I can purchase parts at and
    then get the work done at a dealer.

    I am not sure, if the dealer will honor the
    guarntee, he just told me that he would, so....
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    I might have misunderstood your previous post. If you bring genuine Toyota parts to a Toyota dealer for installation, there might not be any warranty issues. However, unless the cost saving is really big, you'd be further ahead to let the installing dealer supply the parts, if just for the comfort zone factor.
  • kenjikenji Posts: 2
    Regarding #1

    If you diligently' took your car to dealer for
    every service/maintenance and no mechanical or any other problems so far,I think 1500$ is high.
    How much have you ever paid for maintenance(7500miles,15000mies,...30000miles...)? If you have changed anything, it might cost 1500$.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Well, it's obvious you guys have not built up a good relationship with a local mechanic, non dealer that is. Yes, mine will put in Toyota parts that I bring him Know why, because other then simple stuff like filters etc.(if I want genuine toyota parts) he has to go to the dealer to get the parts anyway and he claims he pays (and me) through the nose. He may charge me extra labor but believe me, the savings in part cost (Lone Star Ford 15% over cost) and labor is huge over a dealer. ($300-$400 on a 120,000 mile service, timing belt, drive belts, water pump, plugs, wires) Warranty., toyota has to warranty the parts, I may be stuck for the labor but so far not an issue.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,555
    In this case it might be different. Most shops deeply resent a customer bring in their own parts.

    They would consider a person like that to be the ultimate cheapskate since they typically depend on making a profit on both the parts as well as the labor.

    But...if your guy doesn't care, go for it!
  • boagboag Posts: 14
    I assume that there is was sludge to start with so the operation is quite simple. The only difficult step is making sure the check clears. The funny part is that I know my sister regularly changes her oil at 3k miles (because I tell her she is wasting her money) so there is no chance of any build up or break down of the oil. I chalk it up to questionable business practices. However, as on any bulletin board there is no way to verify my comments so we need to accept this as fiction and try to muddle through.
  • boagboag Posts: 14
    I had a typo in my previous post. I tried to say that there was "no sludge" in the engine to start with. Sorry for the mis-statement
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Oil/filter only if this is within your normal schedule. Outside of that here's what I would do and have done on my 92 Camry SE V6, 129,000 miles.
    Air filter (can do yourself), fuel filter, drain and refill transmission fluid, maybe coolant if it does not have the long life from the factory stuff in it!. Nothing else at 30,000. Plugs are at 60,000, belts and timing belt at 60,000, Check you manual and go with that.
  • oilcan2oilcan2 Posts: 120
    Don't forget those 2 idler pulleys when you change timing belt.
  • Does the V-6 engine that is free reving engine require belt change at 60K? Has anyone had the belt snapping experience if so at what mileage?

    Honda says 90K for their 2.2L 4 cylinder. Why can't I extend the belt change to 90K? Is it the belt that can't take it, or Toyota says replace it at 60K to make $ more often.

    If the belt breaks, the pistons won't hit the valve as it is the case with Mazda MPV 3.0L V-6 or Chrysler Neon 2.0L engine.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    The Toyota V6 since 92 at least is an interference engine. YOU WILL KILL the engine if the belt breaks. Service Manual (I have one) and owner's manual say replace at 60,000 cost is about $200 parts and labor and do the other two belts at the same time as they must be removed to get to the timing belt. Some belts look great at 60,000 some are cracked and teeth misising and ready to go. If you do not want to replace belts find an engine with a timing chain the next time around.
  • oilcan2oilcan2 Posts: 120
    I did a 94 es300 timing belt change ,this included
    the water pump and all pulleys,and the spark plugs
    (it's much easier to change belt with plugs out)
    maybe the above writer meant $2000,I don't
    think there is even a ma and pa shop that
    would attempt that job for $200.
  • The Toyota service manager told me that the engine is free revving and belt breakage will not hurt the engine. If what you say is true, I will have the belt replaced at 60K as I did in our old '89 Mazda MPV's V-6 engine. I doubt there was that much difference between 92 and 96 V-6 engines,if any. If the pistons are going to hit the valves, I will stick with 60K interval. The Toyota dealer service department said the belt replacement costs $170 (parts and labor).

    Oilcan2, where do you live that they charge $2000 to replace a timing belt?!
  • oilcan2oilcan2 Posts: 120
    I think I have your engine confused with my engine
    I have the v-6 4 cam 1MZ-FE.This engine is the
    v-6 used in camrys from 94 to 98.the 93 has the
    3vzfe and 92 shows 2 v-6 engines,the 2vzfe and
    the 3zvfe,the 1 mz-fe is the aluminum block
    engine.I'll call a local dealer and get a price
    on a 98 camry v-6 belt replacement and post it.
    Sorry about the mix up.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Try looking here for clarification re free running/interference engines:

  • Thank you for the Gate's web site. In Toyota section, for 92-97 Camry V-6 engine, it does have an * which is the sign of Interference engine.

    I will stick with 60K if the engine is interference type, and will stretch it to 75 to 90K if it is not.

    Good help and hints in this site.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Yep. If you can wade through the urban legends, anecdotes, the "my sister's teacher's friend's Chevette has the very same problem as your Rolls Royce" type posts there are some pretty sharp folks hanging out here with good advice. :-)
  • brucer2brucer2 Posts: 157
    Be careful about the information given on the Gates site. I looked up my car (Maxima), and it had model years listed that don't even have timing belts; let alone a subtly like a change of timing belt design.
    Make sure you know what model engine, and date of mfg. you have then check with the mfg of you car for, hopefully, reliable information.
  • edwardh5edwardh5 Posts: 130
    at dealers in South Carloina is about $160, more for all the belts and the water pump.
  • wilcoxwilcox Posts: 583
    for a V6 Camry '92-'97 in the Gates listing. So, it is not an interference engine.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    I know my 92 V6 is an interference engien asn since the 92 was the re-design of the Camry the V6 from 92 on is probably the same.

    Ask toyota directly, most service reps at dealers have too many models, years and are probably too wet behind the ears to know their timing belts from their chains or even what an interference engine is!!!!!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,555
    Even if it isn't an interference engine, you should still follow manufactures reccomendations.

    So, you decide to save money by stretching the 60K interval to 90,000.

    At 83,000 miles on a dark rainy night while merging onto a crowded freeway, the belt decides to let go?

    Ah...but think of the money you "saved"!
This discussion has been closed.