The whole oil leak angle is intresting. If the garage floor has no spot on it, then the owner can assume that there are no leaks. If a spot develops, then owner should get underneath and find where leak is comming from.
One of my favorite childhood stories was the one about "The Sky is Falling". Just last night I had a termite/pest control service over and they did a free inspection. They couldn't find any termites. But they made me feel so guilty that I did not have their Protection service and came up with all kinds of senarios why I needed to pay them $ 1,800 initially, and then $ 350 per year. The sales agent... I nicknamed "Chicken Little".
If I always followed these peoples instructions, then I couldn't afford to live, not even with two jobs! There are times that a person has to separate the fleashit from the pepper. Know what I mean?
But on some makes, the mechanics like to automatically replace the front seal when doing the timing belt just in case.
And, I guess I misunderstood you, wilcox. I was thinking you were planning to drive your car as long as you could with the original belt.
I doubt that 80,000 miles would be that much of a risk.
This forum has given me a new interest in timing belts! The other night, business was slow, and I was chatting with one of the techs in the shop. He had just finished installing a t-belt on a 94 Accord with 92,000 miles on it. I picked it up and looked it over. It showed obvious signs of wear and had ever so small cracks in the underside. It also looked (to me anyway) like it could have lasted awhile longer.
Who knows? At least that customer won't have to think about it for another 90K.
Have you guys ever read the syndicated column "Goss's Garage"? It appears in the Washington Post every Friday, for one. That guy will get you paranoid in a hurry if you believe him.
He recommends draining and flushing the cooling system every fall, and even periodically changing the power steering fluid, among other things.
Maybe he gets under-the-table payments from the quickie lube places?
Well, just because there is no oil spot on the ground does not mean there is no seepage. I have had cars that seeped quite a bit but they never did it in my driveway. My current Camry has a small seepage around the seal mentioned above, started after I had the timing belt replaced, will form droplets after 300-500 miles and move down th oil pan. Not worth fixing at this point but nice to know it is there for future observation. If I never looked under the car I would not know that this has started. Nut after 134,000 I guess some seepage is expected and it is very minimal. Car uses (seepage plus consumption about 28 ounces of oil in my 7,500 mile oil & filter change interval.
I have a very small leak on back of the block - it started after a timing belt change - I think its the valve cover - how do you tighten it where are the nuts?
Four nuts, ones on the end very easy to get to so find the correct size box wrench, metric and tighten Other two must place arm down between master cylinder and hoses at rear of engine and locate the nuts and tighten. Can be done from above, inner ones are done are the pain.. Never had to tighten the ones on the inside of the cover, they are slanted down into valve cover and do not appear to leak whereas lower ones if leaking seep on to block
He's recommedation for changing the power steering fluid is quite sensible ever wander why people cry profusely when it's time to change a steering rack because it's leaking. There is you're answer, yet such a problem could be averted by just adding synthetic atf if the manufacturer calls for this substitue, such changes could be infrequent perhaps limited to once every 3yrs or 5
Goss is an obsessive-compulsive's dream. After all, doesn't everybody take their car out into the country to add air to the tires so they know they're getting fresh air? LOL
Can anyone tell me the recommendation for when to use or when to turn off the overdrive on an automatic V4? I'm assuming that since the dash light comes on when you turn the overdrive off, that means you're supposed to leave it on most of the time. Is that correct?
of another. I seldom mess with my control, but if I did, then I'd switch OD off in the city and switch OD on for highway...
Our 96 Cramery has never had it's brakes relined. I guess I'll see what they look like after 65,000 miles. Should be easy enough....just unbolt and remove the wheel and then find the bolts that fasten the calipers onto the suspension.. Remove the calipers and look at the thickness of the pads. If pads are thin, go down to NAPA and get to replacement pads. Seeing how the brakes work fine now, I doubt that "turning the rotors" is necessary. I'll just slide in the new pads and clip. Reassemble and ready to drive. I don't see why a repair shop should be involved in this, do any of you guys?
My experience and that of others that have Toyotas is that "non" OEM pads "SUCK" they either squeal, ratttle and never last as long as the Toyota OEM. I don't like using OEM parts any more then anyone else but with brakes and Toyotas they are the best fit.
Had good luck with them for original Toyota parts. NAPA good but the hassle of squealing with noisey rattles and short life (25,000-35,000 miles on pads) is not worth the savings.
Might want to check you're manual I believe however that the overdrive is used primarily for highway speeds takes additional strain of the transmission, and should be used for that purpose otherwise, in city driving the transmission often hunts in and out the gears, meaning may switch prematurely not staying within the proper gear for the speed you are traveling in, its best to leave overdrive of while driving in the city, car feels more responsive and uses the appropriate gear for the speed.
Like the man said in the Camry topic, just keep doing what you're doing. You might want to post in the "Engine Sludge" topic--the sludge Mafia there says that Toyotas can't go that many miles without self destructing due to sludge!
Note it is 200,000 miles on a 93. All sludge issues seem to have appeared after 97 when people claim Toyota redesigned the engine, I have a 92 with 134,000 miles. My opinion is that Camrys built today in KY do not have the durability, reliability as the Japanese built ones and that Toyota has cheapened the car and not kept up with new engine design and is technologically behind and living on past glories. The V6 Toyota today is the same V6 they came out with in 92 and perhaps changed slightly, aluminum head and 5 more HP. No "MAJOR" engine redesign in 9 years and is very tired compared to Nissan V6 and others out there If same basic engine since 92 I do not know why sludge claims pop up after 97. Aluminum heads, 87 octane, KY production who knows??????
What holds the valve cover down on its gasket on the 94 4 cyl Camry engine? I have taken off lots of valve covers in my life but I do not see any bolts on the valve cover of my Camry and I have a very very small oil leak. Where are these bolts? Thanks.
I've used one of those aftermarket brands on my old trusty, faithful Corolla (RIP) one time a while back, those things had turned into dust literally. It was for the rear drums but still....... Since, then I never again want to take chances with aftermarket parts for critical parts. Esspecially you think about the importance of something so economical as brake pads/shoes and the life saving role it can play.! I mean a new pair Nikes cost more than a brake pads from Toyota dealer with a markup.
I posted this on another board also, so sorry if this is redundant to some of you.
Hi. I really don't know much about cars and am afraid to take my car to a shop and get ripped off. My problem is that whenever it rains, actually the day after, my car has problems accelerating. Here's what happens:
I start the car and everything is fine. It idles fine. However, when I try to go and push down the gas peddle it sputters (usually not until I'm actually on the road-how nice!) then it stalls. THen I try to restart it and as soon as I push the gas it stalls. This happens repeatedly until I "gun it" and get up to about 40mph. THen after driving for a while it is completely fine. My father said it sounded like the distributor cap or rotor and replaced these along with the wires. That didn't help. Then he replaced the gas filter (I told him I've bought that dry gas stuff and it seems to help). That didn't help either. Does anyone have any suggestions??? Or is it just time to say goodbye to my good ole Camry (which has been through a lot through all those 210,000 miles!)
Just replaced the left front strut and right back strut under warrranty. Does anyone know if struts should be both replaced at the same time (as in both back or both front)
mag 178 The struts on my 99 carry seem worn. At what mileage did the warranty cover your repairs. I reported mine to be bad at 39K and dealer said warranty was over for them.
What are the symptons of worn struts? I have '99 Camry with 45k miles on it. I would like to have the struts changed, if they are worn, under the extended Gulf Toyota warranty I purchased.
Is there any engine problems with the 2001 Camrys? Any feedback would be appreciated if anyone has had any problems or even if they haven't....Are the Camrys still a reliable car? Thanks! Happy 4th of July weekend everybody....
My Camry is a 94,and I've never changed my fuel filter...I haven't had any problems with leaks at all... The 94 Camry has been a great car....I'm seriously thinking of getting a 2001 Camry because I'm not to crazy about the 2002 Camrys cause they're being remodeled....I've gotten comments about me saying that it's being remodeled,but I consider it being remodeled...
I agree with you with everything, as long as you take care of your Camry ;then, you shouldn't have any problems with it.. If you take care of your Camry ;then, the Camry will be good to you.
I have a 94 Camry,and haven't had a bit of trouble with it... I get it's oil changed when needed to ,and e.t.c.,and haven't had a bit of trouble with it.I love my Camry,and I want another
Like Consumer reports that base their opinions on whether a new model will be of high quality you assume that since Toyota has made great Camrys for years that this will continue. Nothing else to base it on. Personally, your 94, IMHO, is a much better built car for long term durability and reilability then anything built after 97. The new Camry's will not come close to that. Hope I am wrong but Toyota is cheapening the cars to sell more in the future.
Like armtdm mentioned, I wonder about future Camrys. They (toyota) created high standards...can they keep it up.? They got to the top of the mountain...but what goes up must come down. Look what happened to Cadillac.
We once had a great '88 Taurus Wagon and it got wrecked. We went and got another...a '93...it turned out to be a lesser car even though it had more bells and whistles...sometimes you just never know until you go find out.
albie6. Since struts have their own springs they may still ride fairly well when worn out. A mechanic has to raise up the car and examine the struts themselves for leakage.
I was responding to albie6, post #180. His car is a 99.
I personally put performance KYB gas struts on my 1991. I'm sure part of it is the new product, but I sure like the ride. They absorb well, but are nice and firm on turns.
When Struts and shocks wear is more a matter of shock use, not necessarily miles. According to my mechanic leakage, not ride is the real indicator for a strut. The bounce test doesn't work because they have the extra spring inside them.
I just replaced the pads on my V-6 Camry with bendix pads.In the past, I have had good luck with bendix. With bendix life time warranty, you pay for the pads once. With Toyota pads, you have to buy them every time.
A little hint when removing stuck rotors, There are two small threaded holes on the rotor. If the rotors do not come off after you pull them, put a right size bolt (I don't know what right size is since I did it by trying different sizes) in the hole and tighten. When the bolt bottoms out it pushes the rotor and separates it from the hub.
I lost the maintenance menu for my 99 4 cylinder Camry. anybody know what is the recommended mileage to change the timing belt? and the recommended mileages to change the oil for my 01 Sienna is 5000 miles, can I apply it to my 99 Camry ( I am currently doing 3000 miles ) ?
Toyota uses the same maintenance manual (but of course not owners manuals) for all of its vehicle lines. And I don't think there's much, if any, difference between the 1999 model and 2001 model maintenance recommendations. Therefore, you can use the 2001 recommendations for the 1999 Camry. Timing belt replacement isn't needed till 90,000 miles.
However, 3000-mile oil changes might be a good idea for BOTH of your vehicles, in light of the alleged oil sludge problem, and if your vehicles meet the severe service conditions.
The Bendix pads have been on the car for some 1500 miles now. There are no rattles or squeaks. As I said, with Toyota pads you pay every time, with Bendix you never pay again.
I had Bendix on all my cars, truck, and vans. They never wore premature and did not squeal either. Both pads were about $35.
One thing I have noticed is that I have less brake dust on the alloys than I did with the OEM pads.
I have 1996 Camry and airbag alert showed (light on the dashboard) up. Dealer took ~$120 and told me that chip needs to replaced. Total cost would be $430.
What are my options? Where is this chip located? Is there anyway to reset/replace ?
Well, it broke again, motor whirrs but nothing happens. this broke about 4 years ago and this time I am wondering how big a job to replace it (dealer did it previously) . Dealer is about $100 if I recall.
Comments
One of my favorite childhood stories was the one about "The Sky is Falling". Just last night I had a termite/pest control service over and they did a free inspection. They couldn't find any termites. But they made me feel so guilty that I did not have their Protection service and came up with all kinds of senarios why I needed to pay them $ 1,800 initially, and then $ 350 per year. The sales agent... I nicknamed "Chicken Little".
If I always followed these peoples instructions, then I couldn't afford to live, not even with two jobs! There are times that a person has to separate the fleashit from the pepper. Know what I mean?
And, I guess I misunderstood you, wilcox. I was thinking you were planning to drive your car as long as you could with the original belt.
I doubt that 80,000 miles would be that much of a risk.
This forum has given me a new interest in timing belts! The other night, business was slow, and I was chatting with one of the techs in the shop. He had just finished installing a t-belt on a 94 Accord with 92,000 miles on it. I picked it up and looked it over. It showed obvious signs of wear and had ever so small cracks in the underside. It also looked (to me anyway) like it could have lasted awhile longer.
Who knows? At least that customer won't have to think about it for another 90K.
He recommends draining and flushing the cooling system every fall, and even periodically changing the power steering fluid, among other things.
Maybe he gets under-the-table payments from the quickie lube places?
It doesn't surprise me he's not in the Washington Post Writer's Group. He's more like an Ann Landers, carried by many newspapers.
Our 96 Cramery has never had it's brakes relined. I guess I'll see what they look like after 65,000 miles. Should be easy enough....just unbolt and remove the wheel and then find the bolts that fasten the calipers onto the suspension.. Remove the calipers and look at the thickness of the pads. If pads are thin, go down to NAPA and get to replacement pads. Seeing how the brakes work fine now, I doubt that "turning the rotors" is necessary. I'll just slide in the new pads and clip. Reassemble and ready to drive. I don't see why a repair shop should be involved in this, do any of you guys?
For wholesale pirces I use http://www.toyotapart.com/
Had good luck with them for original Toyota parts. NAPA good but the hassle of squealing with noisey rattles and short life (25,000-35,000 miles on pads) is not worth the savings.
We redo quite a few brake jobs because the aftermarket pads squeak.
wilcox, be sure to use brake grease and lube up the sliders when you do the job.
I have taken off lots of valve covers in my life but I do not see any bolts on the valve cover of my Camry and I have a very very small oil leak.
Where are these bolts?
Thanks.
Since, then I never again want to take chances with aftermarket parts for critical parts. Esspecially you think about the importance of something so economical as brake pads/shoes and the life saving role it can play.! I mean a new pair Nikes cost more than a brake pads from Toyota dealer with a markup.
Mine are still on the car at 88,000 miles.
Wholesale from a Toyota dealer!
Hi. I really don't know much about cars and am afraid to take my car to a shop and get ripped off. My problem is that whenever it rains, actually the day after, my car has problems accelerating. Here's what happens:
I start the car and everything is fine. It idles fine. However, when I try to go and push down the gas peddle it sputters (usually not until I'm actually on the road-how nice!) then it stalls. THen I try to restart it and as soon as I push the gas it stalls. This happens repeatedly until I "gun it" and get up to about 40mph. THen after driving for a while it is completely fine. My father said it sounded like the distributor cap or rotor and replaced these along with the wires. That didn't help. Then he replaced the gas filter (I told him I've bought that dry gas stuff and it seems to help). That didn't help either. Does anyone have any suggestions??? Or is it just time to say goodbye to my good ole Camry (which has been through a lot through all those 210,000 miles!)
When - what mileage?
Any problem changing them? Leaks?
Dealer says to never change them.
right back strut under warrranty. Does anyone know if struts should be both replaced at the same time (as in both back or both front)
Thanks
The struts on my 99 carry seem worn. At what mileage did the warranty cover your repairs. I reported mine to be bad at 39K and dealer said warranty was over for them.
Thanks.
Any feedback would be appreciated if anyone has had any problems or even if they haven't....Are the Camrys still a reliable car? Thanks!
Happy 4th of July weekend everybody....
Go to http://www.mag-x.com/scoop/camry0106/06.jpg
,and take a look for yourself.... Have a great day...
sunshine60105!
any problems with it.. If you take care of your Camry ;then, the Camry will be good to you.
I have a 94 Camry,and haven't had a bit of trouble with it... I get it's oil changed
when needed to ,and e.t.c.,and haven't had a bit of trouble with it.I love my Camry,and I want another
We once had a great '88 Taurus Wagon and it got wrecked. We went and got another...a '93...it turned out to be a lesser car even though it had more bells and whistles...sometimes you just never know until you go find out.
wil
I personally put performance KYB gas struts on my 1991. I'm sure part of it is the new product, but I sure like the ride. They absorb well, but are nice and firm on turns.
When Struts and shocks wear is more a matter of shock use, not necessarily miles. According to my mechanic leakage, not ride is the real indicator for a strut. The bounce test doesn't work because they have the extra spring inside them.
* Installation extra
(some special, eh?)
A little hint when removing stuck rotors, There are two small threaded holes on the rotor. If the rotors do not come off after you pull them, put a right size bolt (I don't know what right size is since I did it by trying different sizes) in the hole and tighten. When the bolt bottoms out it pushes the rotor and separates it from the hub.
I will buy factory again
However, 3000-mile oil changes might be a good idea for BOTH of your vehicles, in light of the alleged oil sludge problem, and if your vehicles meet the severe service conditions.
There is plenty of room for a bigger filter.
I had Bendix on all my cars, truck, and vans. They never wore premature and did not squeal either. Both pads were about $35.
One thing I have noticed is that I have less brake dust on the alloys than I did with the OEM pads.
the dashboard) up. Dealer took ~$120 and told me that
chip needs to replaced. Total cost would be $430.
What are my options? Where is this chip located? Is there
anyway to reset/replace ?
Thanks..
So, what are the procedures to replace the cable.
Thanks