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Toyota Camry Maintenance
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Comments
One of my favorite childhood stories was the one about "The Sky is Falling". Just last night I had a termite/pest control service over and they did a free inspection. They couldn't find any termites. But they made me feel so guilty that I did not have their Protection service and came up with all kinds of senarios why I needed to pay them $ 1,800 initially, and then $ 350 per year. The sales agent... I nicknamed "Chicken Little".
If I always followed these peoples instructions, then I couldn't afford to live, not even with two jobs! There are times that a person has to separate the fleashit from the pepper. Know what I mean?
And, I guess I misunderstood you, wilcox. I was thinking you were planning to drive your car as long as you could with the original belt.
I doubt that 80,000 miles would be that much of a risk.
This forum has given me a new interest in timing belts! The other night, business was slow, and I was chatting with one of the techs in the shop. He had just finished installing a t-belt on a 94 Accord with 92,000 miles on it. I picked it up and looked it over. It showed obvious signs of wear and had ever so small cracks in the underside. It also looked (to me anyway) like it could have lasted awhile longer.
Who knows? At least that customer won't have to think about it for another 90K.
He recommends draining and flushing the cooling system every fall, and even periodically changing the power steering fluid, among other things.
Maybe he gets under-the-table payments from the quickie lube places?
It doesn't surprise me he's not in the Washington Post Writer's Group. He's more like an Ann Landers, carried by many newspapers.
Our 96 Cramery has never had it's brakes relined. I guess I'll see what they look like after 65,000 miles. Should be easy enough....just unbolt and remove the wheel and then find the bolts that fasten the calipers onto the suspension.. Remove the calipers and look at the thickness of the pads. If pads are thin, go down to NAPA and get to replacement pads. Seeing how the brakes work fine now, I doubt that "turning the rotors" is necessary. I'll just slide in the new pads and clip. Reassemble and ready to drive. I don't see why a repair shop should be involved in this, do any of you guys?
For wholesale pirces I use http://www.toyotapart.com/
Had good luck with them for original Toyota parts. NAPA good but the hassle of squealing with noisey rattles and short life (25,000-35,000 miles on pads) is not worth the savings.
We redo quite a few brake jobs because the aftermarket pads squeak.
wilcox, be sure to use brake grease and lube up the sliders when you do the job.
I have taken off lots of valve covers in my life but I do not see any bolts on the valve cover of my Camry and I have a very very small oil leak.
Where are these bolts?
Thanks.
Since, then I never again want to take chances with aftermarket parts for critical parts. Esspecially you think about the importance of something so economical as brake pads/shoes and the life saving role it can play.! I mean a new pair Nikes cost more than a brake pads from Toyota dealer with a markup.
Mine are still on the car at 88,000 miles.
Wholesale from a Toyota dealer!
Hi. I really don't know much about cars and am afraid to take my car to a shop and get ripped off. My problem is that whenever it rains, actually the day after, my car has problems accelerating. Here's what happens:
I start the car and everything is fine. It idles fine. However, when I try to go and push down the gas peddle it sputters (usually not until I'm actually on the road-how nice!) then it stalls. THen I try to restart it and as soon as I push the gas it stalls. This happens repeatedly until I "gun it" and get up to about 40mph. THen after driving for a while it is completely fine. My father said it sounded like the distributor cap or rotor and replaced these along with the wires. That didn't help. Then he replaced the gas filter (I told him I've bought that dry gas stuff and it seems to help). That didn't help either. Does anyone have any suggestions??? Or is it just time to say goodbye to my good ole Camry (which has been through a lot through all those 210,000 miles!)
When - what mileage?
Any problem changing them? Leaks?
Dealer says to never change them.
right back strut under warrranty. Does anyone know if struts should be both replaced at the same time (as in both back or both front)
Thanks
The struts on my 99 carry seem worn. At what mileage did the warranty cover your repairs. I reported mine to be bad at 39K and dealer said warranty was over for them.
Thanks.
Any feedback would be appreciated if anyone has had any problems or even if they haven't....Are the Camrys still a reliable car? Thanks!
Happy 4th of July weekend everybody....
Go to http://www.mag-x.com/scoop/camry0106/06.jpg
,and take a look for yourself.... Have a great day...
sunshine60105!
any problems with it.. If you take care of your Camry ;then, the Camry will be good to you.
I have a 94 Camry,and haven't had a bit of trouble with it... I get it's oil changed
when needed to ,and e.t.c.,and haven't had a bit of trouble with it.I love my Camry,and I want another
We once had a great '88 Taurus Wagon and it got wrecked. We went and got another...a '93...it turned out to be a lesser car even though it had more bells and whistles...sometimes you just never know until you go find out.
wil
I personally put performance KYB gas struts on my 1991. I'm sure part of it is the new product, but I sure like the ride. They absorb well, but are nice and firm on turns.
When Struts and shocks wear is more a matter of shock use, not necessarily miles. According to my mechanic leakage, not ride is the real indicator for a strut. The bounce test doesn't work because they have the extra spring inside them.
* Installation extra
(some special, eh?)
A little hint when removing stuck rotors, There are two small threaded holes on the rotor. If the rotors do not come off after you pull them, put a right size bolt (I don't know what right size is since I did it by trying different sizes) in the hole and tighten. When the bolt bottoms out it pushes the rotor and separates it from the hub.
I will buy factory again
However, 3000-mile oil changes might be a good idea for BOTH of your vehicles, in light of the alleged oil sludge problem, and if your vehicles meet the severe service conditions.
There is plenty of room for a bigger filter.
I had Bendix on all my cars, truck, and vans. They never wore premature and did not squeal either. Both pads were about $35.
One thing I have noticed is that I have less brake dust on the alloys than I did with the OEM pads.
the dashboard) up. Dealer took ~$120 and told me that
chip needs to replaced. Total cost would be $430.
What are my options? Where is this chip located? Is there
anyway to reset/replace ?
Thanks..
So, what are the procedures to replace the cable.
Thanks