Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
pull off trunk trim panel, remove motor, take off one nut, remove old end piece of cable, replace all, feed new cable back in teeth to rear of car, turn on radio to pull cable into motor.
I have overhauled several engines in my life. Most of them had valve covers with hold down bolts (screws) on them.
On my 1994 4 cyl camry I can not find those bolts, so I don't know what tightenes up the cover. I have a very slight oil leak down the back of the block that seems to start at the back side of the engine just under the valve cover gasket. How do you tighten the valve covers?
p.s. My Camry has a seperate differential fluid drain and fill, Sienna shares it with the tranny sump. So check yours.
Yes, differential in these is separate but the Toyota dealer mechanic and Toyota Home Office had a disagreement on this during a phone call as I was in the room ( asked the dealer to change my diff with my synthetic and he refused saying it was the same fluid).Thus the phone call. . Mechanic swears that although it is a separate drain and fill it is still filled via the dipstick and so in theory, if you drained the diff but filled the tranny via the dipstick with more fluid it would also fill the differential.. Draining and filling the diff separately only gets more fluid out during the drain in his opinion. After having this car 9 years and 135,000 miles I think the mechanic is correct. Just changed my own diff and tranny fluid recently.
I agree with the mechanic... if it's the 98 Sienna tranny. There is a differential check/fill plug that is used to fill the differential sump. It is the same size ( metric, of course)Allen wrench as the tranny and diff drain plugs. When I replace my fluid, I stop when tranny oil starts to run out of this plug giving the right levels. VERY GOOD!!! Toyota
Now for my 92 Camry, I am sorry but this does not apply!. You can "topoff your dipstick" and still no fluid running out of the check/fill plug (hole)!!! You need to pump fluid into this plug to fill the differential (1 quart approx). I use a big syringe and then stop until fluid runs out of the plug hole. 15K recommended change interval. For reference check on Haynes 92-95 Camry p.1-21
If I were you, I'd check for my diff level and if there's fluid, get a sample to see if it is RED (fresh). Good luck!
Hope this helps. Good luck!
and do you mean I have to drain transmission oil and differential oil seperatlly.
And don't forget to put back the magnets. Yes...
The diff check/fill plugs use ALLEN wrench ( 10 mm ) to take off and located just as armtdm described.
My last drain and fill a few weeks ago I saw some metal on the magnet of the differential plug (that one was 50,000 miles since the last change) but tranny plug is not a magnet as it appears to be in the filter area.
So, how bad was the screen after how many miles in your case?.
Remove the drain plug at night, and let it drain all night. In the morning, remove the oil filter. There is not one drop of oil in the oil filter to drip. I know this is a 10 hour long oil change, but to me it is worth not getting the drain pan, engine block or exhust shield all messy.
10-21-97 92000 Cleaned x'mission filter
03-25-01 132,700 "
No metal/gear fragments on the screen on both occasions, magnets are doing their job ( metal filings, same as what you get when you throw a magnet into sand ). Some hardened Permatex last time ( I used it the first time ). What surprises me is what looks like synthetic grease ( dark gray ) all over inside and about 1/8 in thick settled on the pan. Dissolves easily with solvent though. Never had x'mission problems. Any idea what it is?
Most of the coolant however drains from the engine block. I attached a 0.350" ID vinyl tube to the short metal tube, and loosened the 10mm hex nut.
I still think Toyota could have left an opening in the underbody cover to access the radiator drain plug from the bottom. Replacing the fuel filter would be the next project.
We have an old Camry with over 333333 km's on it. We've only owned it for a few months, so we're still getting familiar with the it.
Recently a ticking sound has started from under the hood. At first I thought it was a sticking valve, but it appears to be coming from the a/c pump. Not sure if it's a bearing or what. I'm considering getting a shorter belt and bypassing the pump all-together, as I'm not all that interested in fixing the A/C. Does anyone have any ideas what this might be?
Just had an oil change done in the Camry. Oil had looked a little dirty, but not terrible. Added a bottle of engine flush outside the doors of a lube place and had them change the oil. After running the engine to check for leaks, they showed me the dipstick. I've never seen such clean oil. And the guy doing the oil change, said the old oil was quite dirty. I drove the car a bit that day and checked the oil. Once again, the oil so clean, it's hardly visible. My oil on my new cars has never looked that clean the day after an oil change. I don't know if it was the result of the flush or not. I'll have to wait a few days and see.
Just wondered if anyone else does regular engine flushes when they change the oil? I normally don't get engine flushes because I wasn't sure if it helped, and they always charge a premium for such services.
I am preparing to change the engine coolant for my 99 Camry, But somebody mentioned in alt.auto.toyota group that Toyota using special red coolant, and you only can get it from Toyota dealer. is that true?
I would like to share my tune-up story with the folks in this
group. I have a 92' camry with 220,000 miles. Recently,
the engine developed a problem. When I started the engine,
it stalled immediately. I replaced the platinum spark plugs
and the wires not long ago by myself. It doesn't make sense
these parts will go wrong. I checked the Hayes Toyota book
which listed possible causes. One of them is the vacumn leaks.
I checked all the hoses and couldn't find any broken ones.
If you think carefully, there are many factors to consider.
It is difficult to separate each other. My strategy is to remove
each at one time. My focus turned to the fuel system. I added
a bottle of fuel injector cleaner, but it didn't work. I thought
about the fuel filter. It hasn't been replaced since I got the
car (was 42,000 miles), but once the car started, it never had
any problem, which made me reluctant to do so. I spent several
days trying to figure out how the engine worked, which made me
to try to clean the throttle control. The book said the PVC valve
can make the part dirty. I bought a bottle of cleaner ($0.69) from W-Mart and sprayed the joins of that round disc which controls the air flow coming into the engine. After 20 min. or so, I started the
engine several times, it failed to start (worse than before).
I pressed the pedal a little, it started without problem. I guessed the problem is due to the vapor from the cleaner. Since then, the stall problem is gone and my car runs like new again. I will post my experience with high mile cars if anyone wants to hear. My previous
85' camry got ~190,000 miles, but was totaled.
When I have the car running and I disconnect the air intake hose from the throttle-body, the car stalls. I want to have the car running while I clean the throttle-body, but I'm not sure how to do this. I assume a sensor is sending a message that there is a problem, which shuts down the engine.
I've done this before on a mitsubishi engine and had no problem with car not running after disconnecting the air intake hose.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Not expensive and not hard to do.
I've succesfully done this job twice on a plymouth colt. The first time I paid a Chrysler dealer lots of money to do it. The next time did it myself for $6. And it made a big difference.
My service advisor says with 30,000 miles closing in, I should do 30k maintenance. It suggests new plugs and new coolant. I have platinum plugs, and RED coolant, which is supposed to be long life!?! Any suggestions, as this is $140 difference??
GO BY THE OWNERS MANUAL. Every dealer in the country will swear they suggest more frequent serive due to "WHERE YOU LIVE". However, whether it be FLA, MAine, WI, or Ca they all say the same thing, just a ploy to build service dept revenue. My 92 Camry has 136,000 miles. Two plug changes in its life at 60 and 120,000, belts at same interval. Air filter once a year, tranny fluid at 30,000, coolant (I have the old stuff) every other year. Again mine is a 92 so different, more frequent service then newer ones.
It gone to the repair shop for 6 times. Dealer did the balancing, alingment, swapped the tires
with another cars (dont have problem) tires, replaced the driveshaft assembly but still the problem is there. If I dont give gass, once the vibration starts, the vibration goes away.
During morning the vibration doesn't come immediately. I have to drive the car for 5 to
10 minutes at 60-65mph. I believe the vibration is coming when something gets heated up.
After the driveshaft change I can feel the vehicle vibrates when I apply the brake.
The Vibration becomes very very bad if I keep driving at 60-65mph more than an Hour. The tire on my car is Dunlop. occassionly, I could hear a rattling sound when I make a left or right turn.
Any idea ????