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Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)
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The following has just started about a month ago.
When I set the parking brake, before shutting off the engine this brake makes a 'sort of clunk'. The dealer says this is normal. If I really push I set it hard there is no noise. I have had new rear rotors installed 2 months ago..
Another thing is I am getting a couple of groans or creaking when I get out of the van. No noise, whatsoever when I am driving. There has been no change in ride or response since it was new. It currently has 126,500 kms ( 76,777 miles) on it. At the end of May, I moved my daughter-in-law and her belongings down to Arkansas; a 3,800 km trip from Guelph, Ontario, Canda. The groans started about 3 weeks after the trip. It is scheduled for dealer maintenance at 130,500 kms; which is soon as I do about 2,500 to 3,000 kms/month.
Does anyone know what the noise could be or has had similar noises?
Thank you.
Hope you solve your problem
rockycow
Total and complete rubbish!
Where do these people who actually train other people come up with this kind of stuff?? Downright scary!
Long shot, but I will take a stab at this.... Your rear brake is actually two systems in on. The outer rotor acts as the main service disk brake. In the center hub is a miniature drum brake used exclusively as a parking brake. You mentioned that the problem started soon after having the rear rotors replaced.
Years ago, I had a shop try and pull off the rotors without first going thru the manual procedure of retracting the parking drum shoes. This is necessary to clear the rust ridge that forms along the inside lip. They stretched and distorted the shoe spring retainers, and the parking brake made a number of wierd sounds when attempting to apply them until I finally stripped it all down and fixed/replaced the damaged components. With things out of proper alignment, nothing moves as it should.
I suggest you find another shop and have them make an independent assessment.
Steve
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Thanks,
Chiefb
I brought the vehicle in before the 130,500 km service to check on the clunk~noises in the suspension; but they found no problems. They checked tie-rods, ball joints, stabilizers, struts, ani-sways, etc. Of course, after the inspection, the noises were not there when I went out for a drive with the service advisor; just the parking-brake noise; that denver5357 said was a proof/verification that the ABS brakes are working.
I went to Chapters Books where a book called "Lemon-Aid" by the Canadian Protection Association. They also publish books on new and used vehicles, by years. There is metioned in the Lemon-Aid book about badly welded frames in the 2002 odysseys. I could not find anything about this subject in Edmunds or other publications. :surprise:
Interestingly they believe it was probably not working correctly from day one and that possibly VCM was engaged the entire time - i.e. the van was only using three cylinders full time. Makes sense as I never felt that the van had much power. The reason that I didn't say anything earlier (and I know it may seem obsurd that I wouldn't have) was that I was following the recommended break in procedure by not fully pressing the accelerator - in fact I was using the accelerator very gingerly and never asked for much power from the engine but was assuming there was more there if I needed it. I figured I would find out for sure once it hit 600 miles and I asked for full power - pretty ironic that this happened just when I was going to do that. Now that I have a loaner van, it is clear my van was not running correctly - there is a lot of power output even with 'ginger' use of the accelerator. (I did test drive an Ody but it was hard to base things on that as it was a while ago and I was really using the accelerator during the test drive.)
Two questions:
1. Does anyone know how much of the engine needs to be disassembled to replace the VTEC spool solenoid valve? Do either of cylinder heads need to come off - or just the cylinder head cover? I believe there are a couple of gaskets that need to be removed but not sure if they are the actual head gaskets. Couldn't find the procedure after several online searches.
2. The dealership is doing everything expected (providing a loaner, fixing it as quickly as possible (they are waiting for a new valve to arrive), communicating with us). But would you ask for something like an extended warranty as a result of this? I feel this may be warranted because:
a. of the work that is being done on my brand new engine - will it be put back together as well as under factory conditions
b. potential decrease in resale value if potential buyer(s) check the vehicle history and see it had problems from day one
c. potential harm to engine from running non-optimally for 600 miles
Other perspectives welcome. A couple of friends say that I should return the van but friends always like to talk big when it's not their issue and they feel they are helping you.
Their solution was to rotate the tires based on the diagnosis that I had a radial pull. When I questioned whether they should replace the tire, they said that I had to continue to monitor the problem so they could isolate the tire before authorizing replacement under warranty. I unfortunately did not ask whether they actually checked the alignment on the machine. I'm guessing that they didn't
As for the drive home, it did seem better, while my morning commute felt like it was still pulling. Hard to tell whether it was the road crown.
Few questions:
*Does this seem like a reasonable diagnosis and couse of action?
*How can an average driver like myself best "test" alignment
*Anyone have more info on what radial pull is?
Thanks!
>it was still pulling.
Did they rotate the tires? Which was front to back? Left to right?
Was the pull still the same direction if they did rotate the tires?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Did they keep track of the original positions of the tires. I don't see how they are going to find the problem doing what you have described.
Sounds to me like they're hoping the problem solves itself.
Try the following link for an explanation of radial pull.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=12
Strek
1. They require batteries that the dealer should have installed. I believe that there is an LED that will indicate when they have battery power and are on (they turn on automatically when the ear piece is swiveled).
2. You must be behind the overhead RES console in order for them to pick up the line of sight IR signal. They will not pick up a signal if you are trying to test them while seated in the front seat.
I think it's something different too. Chrysler trannies with the tranny fluid they were using, didn't show up with problems for several years later and between 45-70,000 miles. Honda's transmissions were showing trouble within months of buying them. I would bet theirs was a design problem. Although I hear their new transmissions do use a much better grade of fluid.
As for Honda's tranny fluid, it makes for a much nicer ride in my Accord than whatever crap the person before me was putting in. I think the ATF-Z1 is excellent, but it is certainly not cheap in any respects. Whoever is saying it is cheap must not have much experience with it.
Comparing dealer only purchases, I believe the price difference is about $1. I bought ATF-Z! at $3.96 at mu local Honda dealer.
But since tranny fluid is not changed like engine oil, that price difference is not significant. But you have to watch out for garages who will use Dexron to save on costs at their advertized tranny oil change specials. The non-informed owners, especially women, are more vulnerable.
At about 110,000 miles I started to have problems with the transmission. The Honda dealership looked at it and couldn't find anything wrong. At 116,000 the problem became more pronounced. Dealer looked at it again and replaced the "3rd gear shift sensor". It helped but within a few weeks I was having the same problem.
Took the Van in today and had one of the service managers drive it. After about 1/2 mile, he agreed there was a problem. He stated it was the same problems others were having. They said they would talk to Honda.
Got a call back a few minutes ago and Honda agreed to replace the transmission for "free". Even though I was far beyond the extended warranty period, for some reason they agreed to replace it.
The engine is being replaced in my brand new '05 Ody (purchased on 6/30/2005 with 600 miles). The oil pressure went to zero in the engine and they can't figure out why. The Honda Corp. regional service manager has directed the dealer to replace the entire engine (long block).
I am extremely unhappy and concerned about this. Regardless of how good of a job the dealer's techs do at replacing the engine there are risks of problems down the road. I want Honda to give me a new van. They are only offering a 5/50 warranty on the new engine.
I have not found any legal backing for them to have to replace the van. I don't believe this falls under any lemon law conditions because they are able to fix the van. I would like to hear recommendations on how to proceed to encourage Honda to provide me with a replacement van. Who exactly to contact, points to make, etc. Thanks.
If you found out that the car came with a defective headlamp, would you ask for the same thing?
The engine they will install is NEW!! It is the same engine they install at the factory. What in the world makes you think that a NEW engine installed at the dealership will be any less reliable than if the same engine were installed on a defferent auto at the factory? If they wanted to drop in a rebuilt or a short block I would agree with you.
Good grief. :confuse:
After consideration, I think you may be more than a tad unreasonable.
I will also bet that Honda is going to provide you with transportation at no charge while your engine is being replaced.
1. I don't think this will be like a factory install of an engine. The quality control conditions aren't the same, it is not being done in the order that the car was assembled in the factory. There are a lot of components that are installed after the engine is installed that have to now be disconnected and removed and then reconnected. I know that the warranty is to cover these types of things but some not surface until after the warranty (a hose that is replaced slightly incorrectly and rubs agains a bolt and leaks after many years). This dealership has told me they have never replaced an '05 Ody engine so this will be all new to them.
2. Mighten this decrease the resale potential a bit. It seems reasonable that a seller may be hesitant to buy a vehicle that the Honda service records show had its engine replaced on day one.
I am a reasonable person and I do appreciate your perspective (and no I would not ask for a replacement for a defective headlamp - that was insulting). Does this change your opinion at all?
There is no difference between a "factory install" and one installed in the shop. Anyone with any experience will confirm this. Nothing bad will happen unless the technican is careless. Assembly line mistakes happen too.
This won't decrease your resale value one iota. Oh, it **could** scare away a worrywart I suppose but so what? Just sell it to the next person.
The fact they have never replaced an engine in a 2005 Odyssey doesn't surprise me since I've never heard of such a thing in ANY Honda. This will make no difference. an engine is an engine, a bolt is a bolt etc...
Once you've driven your Odyssey for a few weeks I'll bet you forget all about this.
Sorry this happened....strange!
I don't care how good a technician might be!!! A guy on an assembly line has only one or two tasks to do, the tech has to probably drop the front suspension, undo tranny, all accessories, wiring, ductwork, remove engine, reinstall, reprogram systems (body controllers, engine controllers, tranny controllers etc..) and numerous other things!!!!!
I'd demand a new one really!!! Let them take your's back, fixed it in their own good time and unload it at an auto auction. You spent a lot of hard earned money to deal with something like this!!!
You should have been given a booklet, which outlines the proper procedures and channels to work thru for any grievances, when you bought your van. It should have Honda customer service numbers etc. Record all your calls on paper with the names and numbers of people you talk to.
Call Honda of America and tell them that a replacement engine is not acceptable!
Not very many car companies do that!! But, a 7 year/100K warrenty would be nice! They should stand behind the product. If it's that good a product the 7 years should be a cake walk for them.
It's totally unacceptable regardless of warranty offered. And what if you get a better warranty...is it transferable? What about a future Carfax report on this Van....what will it tell future buyers? Major engine replacement at 600 miles? The potential buyer could think "Hmmmm, did they abuse this one?"
No, only new would do for me!
Engine transplant is a major ordeal. At 10k miles, you have to accept and live with it. At under 1k miles, you deserve better treatment from a car company that prides itself on building reliable vehicles. They should take the hit, not you!
Steve
My apologies for the headlamp comparison.
I'd love to know if you find out what it is.
Perhaps the condensate drip hose for the rear A/C is clogged. Do you get a puddle of water behind the right rear tire when parked after running the rear air?