I know there are lots of post regarding the crush washer on the oil drain plug. I changed the oil by my self and replaced the crush washer, from H&A,. I am getting a quarter size leak from the plug. Did I overtighten the plug? If so, what is the chance of damaging the pan? Has anyone experienced the same problem?
I have Michelin Harmony tires. Rated much better than OEM Michelin Symmetrys. Check out Tirerack.com. Harmonys have better all round traction and tread wear. They have much better wet grip, and are noticeably quieter than originals as well. I also have dedicated snows, so don't run Harmonys in winter. Other tire to check out is Michelin HydroEdge - it's a step up from the Harmonys, but wasn't available at the time I was in market for new rubber.
My 2000 Odyssey has 70,000 miles. Last weekend I took it in and the transmission was replaced. They've had the van for 4 work days and cannot get it to pass smog. It has already been flagged as a gross polluter. Luckilly, all this was at the dealer and maintenance has been kept up. I no longer want this vehicle. Any recourse suggestions?
I had the same problem with the CEL going off and on last November until it finally stayed on in December. The dealer said the CC needed to be replaced. Since I was at 94,000 plus miles, I suspected it was the O2 sensors as they're only rated up to about 100,000 miles. Also, the rear O2 sensor is plugged into the CC and appears to be the only way for a reading to come from the CC. I replaced both the front and rear O2 sensors (it was badly fouled), the light went out and I haven't had a problem since and I'm now over 105,000 miles with no loss in performance.
Thx a bunch... I went through all the reviews and was really happy with what I saw. I looked through the HydroEdge also, but was a little scared away by the comments about performance in light snow. Although I have dedicated snows, you know, you never quite get them on in time. That said, I'm sure the HydroEdge would be 1000 times better than the current Symmetrys. But, I'm not sure the minor incremental cost for the HydroEdge is justified since the Harmonys seem so good.
One other thing I started looking at is the Bridgestone Turanza LSTs and at $20 less per tire, they seem pretty good too. Compare pretty nicely with the Harmonys.
Thx for the leads .... one thing I confirmed for sure, looking through everything: nobody likes the Symmetrys that are OE on the 2001 Odyssey EX. Looking forward to the upgrade.
Hi, I have used HydroEdges & had to get rid of them after 5k miles, they shimmy on smooth roads, you can feel all the tiny cracks & bumps from the road in your steering, I would not recommend them for Odyssey. My 1st choice is still the OEM Symmetrys – it is my preference to have a calm steering feel, tread wear is 2nd.
My van sounded like a go-cart. When I had the oil jet kit installed, I asked the dealership to check on a whining noise. I even told them that I thought that it might have something to do with the muffler. They told me " Well, we installed the oil jet kit without road testing the van to check on the noise that you reported. After installing the kit our tech then road tested the van and reported that everything was in normal working order." I contacted Honda Costumer service and I obtained a case #. With case # in hand I went in to the dealership at opening time. I asked the service clerk that I've dealt with every time I've gone in for oil changes. I told him I have a case number and I'm willing to leave my van in your hands for the day, I also made it clear to him that I know that something is not working properly and that I didn't want to get a call from him saying that they couldn't find the source of the whining noise. What a suprise!! I needed a new muffler!! Two weeks later I got my new muffler installed, (the muffler was on back order) along with an OIL CHANGE AT NO COST!! When all was said and done Honda took care of me.
We have experienced exactly the same problems with manual sliding doors getting stuck closed as you described("doors will not budge... service dept. has replaced the rubber gasket...twice on both doors... replace one handle because I broke it trying to open the door... problem still persists..."). I'm wondering if you (or anyone else out there)ever found a permanent solution. We have been putting up with this for a long time. Thanks for any info. and advice.
Can you tell me if you found a solution to this problem? I have a 2-day old EX RES with the SAME problem. Had it in the shop all-day today. They are recomending that they start with replacing the rt front strut and assembly? Would love to know if any others have the same thing going on...Thanks!!!!
We haven't brought our van in yet for the 3k service. I've noticed with the warmer weather the sound/rattle/squeak, whatever you want to call it, isn't as pronounced. Will probably have to schedule our appointment in the next couple of weeks. Will see what our dealer comes up with for a solution. Hopefully it will not be one of the "we cannot duplicate the problem," replies. Keep us posted.
Don't know if the same thing. We had a small rattle at low speeds on our new ODY LX, and our service shop quickly diagnosed it as the right front strut and the interface between it and the strut tower. i believe they unhooked it, applied some lubrication, and re-attached, and the car has been quiet since.
I think there was even a service notice about this that applied to Pilots as well posted back some time (maybe 3 months) ago. maybe you can perform a search. message 3388. ???
I have a 2000 odyssey EX with 63K miles. The van has been trouble free until today. As soon as I start my odyssey van, the engine idles at 2000 rpm for 3-5 seconds and drops to 1200 rpm and with in 2-3 seconds it jumps to 2000 rpm and the cycle repeates. Could someone please post a solution to my problem. Thank you
I have a problem with the Driver's side sliding door on my 1999 Odyssey EX. The door will not close enough so that it will latch. This has been a problem for a while and we generally try not to use that door and when we did I would just give it a shove at the rear and it would latch.
I have tried the solution in post 2648, to no avail. At one time, Honda service said we needed a new door motor ($400). Does this sound right? Has anyone else had this problem and had it fixed by replacing the door motor?
Took my 2003 Odyssey (28,500 mileage)to Goodyear Tire Center and had a 4-wheel alignment done. I noticed that the front-end had a bouncy type feel for the past few weeks.
Goodyear gave me a printout of the before and after specs and said that the toe was way out of alignment. I bought 4-wheel alignment plan for $90 from Goodyear that I can use for the next 3 years to have 4-wheel alignment done every 6,000 miles. This plan has already paid for itself practically because a one-time 4-wheel alignment costs $50.
They then told me that shocks/struts needed to be replaced because they are leaking badly. Goodyear said that shocks/struts aren't covered by car manufacturer/dealer warranty because they are "wearable" parts. I've never had a vehicle where I had to replace the shocks/struts before. The shocks/struts (Monroe, I think) from Goodyear are warranted for 50,000 miles and it will cost about $600 to replace the front & rear.
Is it unusual for an Odyssey that is not outside of the 3 year/36,000 mile warranty to develop leaking or problems with shocks/struts? I do a lot of city/highway driving.
I was in a rear end accident a few months ago but this wouldn't cause wheel misalignment and leaking strut/shock issues.
I have a 2001 EX with just over 38,000 miles. In April, I took it in for service (at 36,200 miles) and to have the transmission checked for hesitation and hunting between gears. The dealership flushed the trans and performed the "factory recommended upgrades" but ended up replacing the transmission. They even paid for the rental: a 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan (for a whole week - ugh!).
The new trans works fine but now I get an intermittent vibration/shimmying in the steering wheel between 60 and 70 mph. It will shake for a second and stop, it repeats. At first, I thought it might be a tire out of balance but that would be a consistent shaking and I'd feel that at any speed. I'm betting the dealership's mechanics left something loose. Anything I should tell them to look for?
Not owning an Odyssey, I haven't been to this part of the Edmunds forums before.
But my daughter has a '98 Odyssey w/2.3L 4cyl automatic, with 74000 miles on it. It had a weak battery which I replaced about a week ago, and the charging system checked out fine. The new battery helped, but the van obviously has bad starter contacts.
Now to my question. I have found replacement contacts online for Accords and Odysseys up through '93. But I haven't been able to determine if the contacts on the '98 are replacable, or if I must replace the starter or solonoid. I have been told it may not have a Nippon Denso starter, so the starter may not be repairable.
I had a Honda Odyssey 2002 which has about 12000 miles now (I have not used it much). The SRS light already came on 4 times. First 2 times, I went to two different dealers for repare. They reset it and told me it might be caused by cell phone on the guest seat. The 3rd time, I went to the dealer who worked on it the first time. This time they did check it and replaced a part and told me that it was fixed. Now the SRS light is on again and I just made another appoitment. I am really not happy about this. It is waste time (no money now since it is still in warranty period). What should I do when the warranty expire on Number of 2004? Any suggestion would be appreicated very much.
What part did they replace? What did they say on the work order papers? Go back to the same dealer and ask the service people to look at these two areas: Possible lose cable or connector underneath the driver's seat. The movement of the seat can cause some lose wires. My second guess is a faulty clock spring (coil spring). It is consists of two current carrying coils. It is attached between the steering column and steering wheel. It allows rotation of the steering wheel while maintaining continuous of the deployment through the inflator module. I had the same problem on my SUV. Both problems are covered by the warranty. If I am correct, the airbag, seatbelts are covered under the 60 months/60,000 miles powertrain warranty along with the engine, transmission/transaxle, and front or rear-wheel drive. Hope this help.
on my '02 Ody is consistently a messy operation. Can someone give me some advice?
I do my own oil and filter changes, and I don't use a jack or ramps. Everything's pretty easy to do, except.....When changing the oil filter, it seems to me there must be a pint of oil sitting in the line above the filter. When removed...that oil proceeds to leak all over the place, particularly down on to the plastic guard below it and a chassis beam. All efforts to place rags to soak this up have only been partially successful.
Any thoughts?
Also....is this oil filter arrangement the same on the Honda Pilot (I'm considering buying one)?
It took 2 trips but they were finally able to fix it. The tech took the dash assembly off and redid the spot welds on the complete front panel. That was 2K miles back and so far the problem hasn't come back.
The Mass Merchants just love selling "gravy" work that isn't needed. It is HIGHLY unlikely that your Odyssey needs struts since they RARELY wear out even after many many miles.
Have your dealer take a look. I would bet anything your struts/shocks are like new.
I have a 2001 EX. I replaced my tires with Goodyear Assurance tires. So far, 2500 miles, so good. The complete price, with rd hazard, lifetime balance and flat repairs was $499.59. Steep price, but has 80,000 mi tread wear guaranty. The Symmetrys lasted 30,000 miles. If on trips, you want to find a local dealer if you have any problems. Goodyear is everywhere. Sams Club, Costco etc. are not.
I taped a key in one of the wheel wells. A good, dry spot. I used duct tape. But, I got a key made at my dealer, not a key to start you car with, only to open the door. It will kill your ignition system if used to TRY to start the car. Cheaper, and if some one finds it, they will probably try to use it to start the car. Don't do this if your wife's a blonde. The dealer will have to re-do it with a satellite connection. A spare key is hidden inside, someplace.
I have recently started having the same intermittent electrical failure (seems like a computer crash) problem on my '99 Odyssey LX except it seems to happen more frequently (every trip > 20 min). I have an appointment on Wednesday (6/23/04) at the dealer. So hopefully they can find the problem. Have you had any resolution on yours?
To make it less messy when changing oil: Take a 2 Liter plastic pop bottle and cut about 4" of the bottom off. After loosening the oil filter, slide this bottom of the pop bottle around the filter and then remove the filter letting it drop slightly into the pop bottle.
To get easy access to the oil filter, I assume you have learned that you can turn the front wheels all the way to the right and reach the filter through the wheel well.
Also, to make oil changes fast and less mess, install a Fumoto oil change valve. If you purchase one with the nipple, you will be able to attach a hose to the valve and run the used oil directly into an empty milk jug. If purchasing a Fumoto valve for the Odyssey, you will also need the extension that goes between the valve and oil pan.
I understand the Pilot uses essentially the same engine as the Odyssey. I'd expect the oil filter to be in the same location and orientation. However, I've not confirmed this.
I recently had repair to the right side of the rear bumper. In doing so they had to remove the right rear tail assembly. In order to remove the tail light assembly you have to remove two screws under the rear door then pull assembly from body however the plastic pin that mates with the tail light grommet will most likely break. The pin is removable from the tail light assembly but is not stocked in the dealers parts department. I have contacted Honda customer service with no positive results. If you ever need to replace a bulb in the rear tail light assembly be careful not to break the pin as there is no replacement part.
If it is just a pin, why not find a plastic or wooden dowel rod of the right size and cut it to the necessary length. I may not understand what you are saying is a "PIN" , so I may be off on this suggestion.
I just had my 02 Odyssey at the dealer for regular service. It has just over 40k miles, with no major or minor problems. Last week, the SRS light went on, just after I picked up a friend on crutches who rode in the middle seats using the other seat to support her injured leg. About two weeks previous, the battery was dead or nearly so one morning after someone left the interior light on. After a jump start and recharging the battery, there have been no problems with the battery. I mention this though as others have said the SRS light problems are often preceded by battery issues.
In response to my request to determine why the SRS light was on, the dealer 'diagnosed' my issue as a control unit failure, code 7-2. He says the part costs $300 and to expect at least 2 hours labor. Can someone explain how it is that the SRS 'control unit' would need replacement in a two year old car? Thanks for any insight you may have!
That code is a power failure code so I would just have the light cleared and see if it returns as chances are it will not. Probably caused by the low/dead battery voltage. If it does return or if you want to go another route then ask to speak to the zone rep or American Honda for assistance or good will..Good luck
Thanks for your help. The dealer said that they reset the light, took the car for a test drive and the light went back on. So if I asked them to reset it now, it's highly likely the light will come back on. I suppose I could try another dealer. Anyone have any insight on this problem or have similar experience?
All, is it premature for the struts to go bad at 65K miles? I think they should last longer with normal highway/city driving. The ride on my '99 Ody LX is so bad that you can feel every little bumps on the road. Please advise ... thanks.
I have an Odyssey 2000 with 72,500 miles on it. I tried replacing the timing belt yesterday but no luck since the bolt holding the pulley won't budge even when used with an impact tool. The manual recommends using a breaker bar and it has a part number on it. Has anybody tried buying this from a Honda dealer or anywhere else? Also, is that bolt a right or left hand thread? I have not come across a left hand thread so far in this respect or maybe I am wrong. It makes me wonder how an impact tool can be useless in removing this bolt. Must be in very tight or a left hand hand thread. Tried both ways but more counter clockwise thought. Thanks.....
I have been replacing timing belts not just on this Odyssey but the rest of my older cars and some of my friend's cars so it's not something new to me plus I have the factory service manuals on hand. I only do repairs up to a certain extent and this is one that I think I can do.
All the ones I've taken off were normal thread and extremely tight (120+ lbs of torque recommended in manuals) I've only done it on manual transmissions where you put it in gear to keep engine from turning- Don't know how you'd do it on auto. trans. Anyway, you're probably way ahead of my limited knowledge on this stuff. I ended up paying someone else $575 to replace my wife's '00 Ody T-belt at 115K miles. Included drive belt, water pump, and T-belt tensioner. Good Luck.
Just passed 130K and still going strong. Although these constantly warping rotors are starting to piss me off. And this thing is mainly driven on the highway! I hope Honda does something about this on the '05 redesign.
I have all the belts and waterpump. I ended up replacing just the drive belts because I could not take the pulley out. I am taking the van out by the end of this month on a 3,ooo mile trip to the west one way that is why I am doing unscheduled maintenance now. I know about the 105k belt replacement but I guess replacing it just before the maximum recommended limit does not hurt the engine. I always beleive 80k is okay - just being on the conservative side. Thanks for the input.
I have done the same thing on my older car - put it in gear and you're okay. On the other cars (automatic transmission), impact tool did the job but it's not the case on the Odyssey. I have changed the rear drums because it makes annoying sound and front because of warped rotor at around 45k. So far so good. Now I am starting to hear rattling noise from the sliding doors and lift gate when you close it.
dfitz1. I have recently experienced the same thing. I have an 02 Odyssey and the light came on about a month or two ago. At the time it had about 48k on it. No prior battery problems. So they did a diagnostic, at the cost of 35 bucks, then me told control unit failure, and it would be 400 bucks to replace!!! They reset it and the light came on a few minutes later. I have the same question; why should there be a control unit failure on a two year old vehicle with less than 50k? I could see if it were an item that receives wear and tear, but that thing should NEVER fail. I have not had it fixed yet. I am trying to decide what I am going to do.
I have an 02 odyssey ex. Right after we first bouight it, Inoticed that on cold days, the first time you hit the brakes after start up in the morning, there would be a loud cracking noise from the rear of the vehicle. Now it has gotten to the point that it makes this noise after EVERY startup, regardless of temperature, and is now doing it in the front as well. It saouinds like the dern axle is about to break or something. Anybody else know anything about this?
have a 2003 EX Odyssey with 12K miles. Recently the dash lights stopped working, I found out the tail lights aren't working, the CD player stopped working and the radio is working only occasionally with no sound at all from the speakers. We suspect there is a short in the radio. It is going into the dealer on Thursday. Has anyone else had similar problems? Should I expect them to continue? Just curious. Thanks
We had that little problem with our '00 EX and we took it to the dealer lots of times to have them fix it. I don't really remember what all they did to try to fix it. The problem never got fixed and it never caused anything bad to happen. We had it for about 38K miles when we traded it in on our '03 EX. The new van does the same thing. We have learned to ignore it.
Comments
Other tire to check out is Michelin HydroEdge - it's a step up from the Harmonys, but wasn't available at the time I was in market for new rubber.
One other thing I started looking at is the Bridgestone Turanza LSTs and at $20 less per tire, they seem pretty good too. Compare pretty nicely with the Harmonys.
Thx for the leads .... one thing I confirmed for sure, looking through everything: nobody likes the Symmetrys that are OE on the 2001 Odyssey EX. Looking forward to the upgrade.
http://www.handaaccessories.com/odymaint01.html
Scroll down near the bottom.
I think there was even a service notice about this that applied to Pilots as well posted back some time (maybe 3 months) ago. maybe you can perform a search. message 3388. ???
I have tried the solution in post 2648, to no avail. At one time, Honda service said we needed a new door motor ($400). Does this sound right? Has anyone else had this problem and had it fixed by replacing the door motor?
Thanks!
Goodyear gave me a printout of the before and after specs and said that the toe was way out of alignment. I bought 4-wheel alignment plan for $90 from Goodyear that I can use for the next 3 years to have 4-wheel alignment done every 6,000 miles. This plan has already paid for itself practically because a one-time 4-wheel alignment costs $50.
They then told me that shocks/struts needed to be replaced because they are leaking badly. Goodyear said that shocks/struts aren't covered by car manufacturer/dealer warranty because they are "wearable" parts. I've never had a vehicle where I had to replace the shocks/struts before. The shocks/struts (Monroe, I think) from Goodyear are warranted for 50,000 miles and it will cost about $600 to replace the front & rear.
Is it unusual for an Odyssey that is not outside of the 3 year/36,000 mile warranty to develop leaking or problems with shocks/struts? I do a lot of city/highway driving.
I was in a rear end accident a few months ago but this wouldn't cause wheel misalignment and leaking strut/shock issues.
The new trans works fine but now I get an intermittent vibration/shimmying in the steering wheel between 60 and 70 mph. It will shake for a second and stop, it repeats. At first, I thought it might be a tire out of balance but that would be a consistent shaking and I'd feel that at any speed. I'm betting the dealership's mechanics left something loose. Anything I should tell them to look for?
But my daughter has a '98 Odyssey w/2.3L 4cyl automatic, with 74000 miles on it. It had a weak battery which I replaced about a week ago, and the charging system checked out fine. The new battery helped, but the van obviously has bad starter contacts.
Now to my question. I have found replacement contacts online for Accords and Odysseys up through '93. But I haven't been able to determine if the contacts on the '98 are replacable, or if I must replace the starter or solonoid. I have been told it may not have a Nippon Denso starter, so the starter may not be repairable.
Anybody here know the answer to this?
Thanks
I do my own oil and filter changes, and I don't use a jack or ramps. Everything's pretty easy to do, except.....When changing the oil filter, it seems to me there must be a pint of oil sitting in the line above the filter. When removed...that oil proceeds to leak all over the place, particularly down on to the plastic guard below it and a chassis beam. All efforts to place rags to soak this up have only been partially successful.
Any thoughts?
Also....is this oil filter arrangement the same on the Honda Pilot (I'm considering buying one)?
The part they replaced last time was OPD System sensor.
I read the warranty and did not find any place about the airbag. There is special section about seat belt.
Have your dealer take a look. I would bet anything your struts/shocks are like new.
If on trips, you want to find a local dealer if you have any problems. Goodyear is everywhere. Sams Club, Costco etc. are not.
Take a 2 Liter plastic pop bottle and cut about 4" of the bottom off. After loosening the oil filter, slide this bottom of the pop bottle around the filter and then remove the filter letting it drop slightly into the pop bottle.
To get easy access to the oil filter, I assume you have learned that you can turn the front wheels all the way to the right and reach the filter through the wheel well.
Also, to make oil changes fast and less mess, install a Fumoto oil change valve. If you purchase one with the nipple, you will be able to attach a hose to the valve and run the used oil directly into an empty milk jug. If purchasing a Fumoto valve for the Odyssey, you will also need the extension that goes between the valve and oil pan.
I understand the Pilot uses essentially the same engine as the Odyssey. I'd expect the oil filter to be in the same location and orientation. However, I've not confirmed this.
In response to my request to determine why the SRS light was on, the dealer 'diagnosed' my issue as a control unit failure, code 7-2. He says the part costs $300 and to expect at least 2 hours labor. Can someone explain how it is that the SRS 'control unit' would need replacement in a two year old car? Thanks for any insight you may have!
miles? I think they should last longer with normal
highway/city driving. The ride on my '99 Ody LX is so
bad that you can feel every little bumps on the road.
Please advise ... thanks.
If you don't know what you are doing, you can REALLY screw things up!
I do know that pully bolt is TIGHT!
I also know if you get it off a tooth or fail to get the tension correct you'll have troubles.
I say this because we get cars towed in from time to time where someone tried and failed to do the job right.
I'm pretty savvy too and I have a large collection of tools including a long breaker bar.
Still, not a job I would attempt.
Also, that is a belt that's not due for replacement until 105,000 or seven years. You are WAY premature on it.
The pros usually change the water pump, seals, and drive belts at the same time to avoid having to do the job over in the future.
Just passed 130K and still going strong. Although these constantly warping rotors are starting to piss me off. And this thing is mainly driven on the highway! I hope Honda does something about this on the '05 redesign.
TWhite