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Comments
You accidently stumbled into the 'clear the code' function of one of the onboard computers. The door failed to operate because some logic function fouled, and it threw an error code that prevented further operation to prevent damage to the door, or personal injury. Removal of the fuse cut standby power, shutting down the processor, and clearing the code. If there had been a real malfunction, it would have logged again, and disabled the door. As it was probably 'fake' (as probably 99% of them are), restoration of the fuse (original or a new one) allowed it to all reset and work again.
Steve
Thx..
Shawn.
We just bought a 2000 EX and while driving one day the door chime just started ringing constantly as if the door was open. It would happen as long as the van was in gear, once in park it would stop...or if we turned the power sliders off. Could I also take out the fuse to reset the computer?
Apparently the manual says to take it to Honda as it could be a "door malfunction" - we took it but of course it would not ring for them so they think it's ok. Any suggestions?
I could only guess.... One thing you might try would be to use a pencil eraser and try cleaning all of the contacts (pin ends and receivers). Lack of a clean signal might suggest to the computer that a door was ajar. I seem to remember that some had to have these replaced on earlier vans because they malfunctioned? Or maybe realigned? Our man in the field, Mr. Auburn, might be able to fill in for my fading memory.
Steve
Also, she's worried about the recall on her Pilot, due to its early VIN # and the higher mileage it has, ~ 50K.
Also, does anyone know of a dealer that offers loaner cars? We usually had no problem getting loaners for our VWs in Dallas while our cars were in the shop for service or warranty work, even tho the cars were bought used.
Thanks
I also started to notice steering wheel shudder when applying brake from higher speed. Is that a known Oddy problem or just a worn rotor/brake part? Mine had about 51K miles and the rotors were serviced/pads replaced around 38K.
At 54000 AC compressor bearing started to squeal/chirp. This will be a $1000 fix when it fails. At 46000 the switch ($80) for the remote mirrors failed.
Go to NHTSA website for real up-to-date listing of all recalls and service bulletins published for your vehicle or one you plan to buy. Its free information that is invaluable. Having this information lets the dealer know that you are informed. Call Honda Customer Relations at 800-999-1009 to register your major problems and get a case number assigned. Once again, it tells the dealer that you are informed.
Is water suppose to come from somewhere in the front if so where?
After awhile it goes away as you are driving or we get use to it.
Any help is Appreciated.....
Anyone have an 2000 am/fm cd Honda radio they pulled to install an aftermarket radio and want to sell the old one? Let me know.
Steve, Host
While researching seeing a lot of complaints with the transmission being a problem and being recalled. Have read this only affects prior than 2002 models. Have read that Honda has placed extended warranty on the transmission for up 7 years/100,000 miles. I am just getting bits and pieces and am somewhat confused. Whats the whole story? I couldn't find any links that explained in detail what was going on. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
I took it to the dealer to get it checked, who found out P1457 code and mentioned that he needed to fix the valve. He charged me for diag and labor/parts for the valve. I also asked him to fix recalls (ignition switch and sliding door). After he gave me the van back, in a day, the CEL came back on.
I took it back to the dealer and he saw P1456 (which is loose gas tank cap issue). He tighten the gas tank cap, reset the light and gave the van back to me.
It came back on again in 2 days. I took it back and he mentioned sometimes a hard reset is necessary for the van to erase the problem code from the hard disk. He did a reset by taking battery out and put them back in. CEL disappeared for a day and after a day's driving it is back again.
I called the dealer and he is asking to bring van back to him and he said he would call national technical support line and run the tests and try to resolve it.
He kept saying that everything is fine with the Ody. He ran all other diagnostic tests and it looks like everything is working as it should. But he is unable to tell me how to resolve the CEL issue. He is working on it, but I would like to find out more from this group.
Is there anybody who is having similar issue?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
'99 thru '01 4 speed transmissions had a quality/inspection problem. Small percentage of castings in transmission came through out of spec and were not caught by quality/manufacturing inspection. Over time, this out-of-spec condition results in too much play in gears, causing premature wear and eventual transmission failures. This only affected ~ 2 - 3% of all transmissions ( Accord, and Acura MDX too). Honda extended the transmission warranty on all vehicles in these years to 7 yrs, 100K miles to appease owners. They will also reimburse folks for repair costs incurred before the warranty extension.
'02 thru early '04 5 speed transmissions have a legit design flaw. Evidently transmission fluid bathing 2nd gear is inadequate. Gear gets subjected too much heat under certain driving conditions, such as hill climbing while towing, and extended highway runs at constant speed. As vehicle accumulates miles, heat damage builds up and failure occurs. Evidently transmissions have failed and locked up while moving in about 10 vehicles - don't believe there were any resultant injuries. There are lesser degrees of failures, but all are recalled.
If '02 thru '04 van has under 10K miles, they will install a fix which sends more fluid to 2nd gear and also add more transmission cooling. Evidently no damage has been found by Honda investigations of low mileage vans. If >10K miles, Honda will open transmission and inspect the gears. If there is evidence of overheating (discoloration of parts, burned fluid, etc.), they will replace transmission with new design that has modified cooling and fluid distribution. If there is no evidence of damage, they will retrofit the cooling and fluid fix and send you on your way. Not sure if they extend the warranty on the trannies that they fix. Honda is notifying owners when to come in for recall inspection.
Remember the Alabama BMW case? Lots of links about it (mostly lawyer ones), including this one:
The BMW vs Gore "Paint Job" Case
Who knows if your situation is extreme enough to warrant an new van.
Steve, Host
arjav
You shouldnt be having so much trouble with either of those two codes as they are easy to diag with the Honda tester and once completed have the ability to run a self check to verify repair. So sounds as if someone isnt doing all they can as of yet. Since money has already been invested all you can really do is ask that a differant tech look at the car and double check that things were done correctly..
My point is - they told me B-4 I signed purchase papers which I was OK with - I could have walked. In your case, a much more significant "repair" was made which you detected and you were not told about B-4 you bought the car. Personally, had that been shown me about the car I was about to purchase, I would have passed. Why would BOTH doors need painting?? Painting versus replacing a fiberglass panel are 2 different things in my book.
This is what I would do . . .
1 - Tell the dealer the only solution you will accept is for them to give you a brand new 2004, identical vehicle and you will pay for it what you owe on this van only.
2 - If they do not accept this, be prepared to walk away with the van and keys left in their possession and tell them you will continue this issue with Honda Customer Service and will involve an attorney if necessary but you will not drive that van again.
Good luck!
I'm getting ready to sell the van, and I'm wondering if anyone has experience with resetting this particular code as opposed to replacing the CC. Did the CEL stay off, or did it recode fairly soon after being reset?
As always, thanks for the info.
I'd try the state consumer protection board of the state you bought in to find out the number and then contact the GM of the dealership.
Thanks for the tip. My antenna is located on the passenger side fender. Any tips on how to replace the antenna? Looks like you have to remove a lot of stuff to get to the antenna. Can you just replace the coax or do you have to replace the entire antenna assembly?
If on the other hand, you want a new power train from current generation car, I believe the Accord power train has evolved over the past 5 years such that the motor mounts, etc. aren't gonna line up with previous generation Odyssey. If you've got the team from "Monster Garage" working for you, they can probably fabricate new sub frames, motor mounts, etc. to make it work. For everybody else, it would be cheaper just to buy a new van. Some folks like the Kia Sedona because it's smaller than the Ody.
http://www.canadiandriver.com/news/040528-1.htm
Stuff goes wrong. What really matters is how the manufacturer and dealer network addresses problems. In this case, be sure to get your tranny checked - you wouldn't want to be one of the few locking up on the highway.
Steve, Host
Thanks very much for your response. I was out on vacation and hence couldn't reply sooner.
Here is the latest update. Honda Dealer told me after he ran the 4th diagnostic test that O2 sensor and catalytic convertor need to be replaced. Parts and labor would cost $1,349.
I drove about add'l 2000 miles while we were going back and forth on the issue. Van seems to be running fine. A local mechanic tells me that everything is fine and I should learn to live with CEL light on.
Any recommendations?
Best Regards,
arjav
When I was back at the dealer today, I asked them to reset the CEL. He said it wouldn't do any good, because the computer would most likely code again in short order.
I left the dealer and went to my usual mechanic. He checked the code, and it's not the CC, it's the O2 sensor. Now, I wouldn't suggest shadiness on the part of the dealer (they've always been straight with me before), but the CC is a $750 repair job, and the sensor is $230. Hmmm. Anyway, my mechanic reset the code, and thus far, the CEL light is off.
The only input I can give is that the price sounds about $300 too high. My mechanic said that a Honda cc would run $750 installed, and an aftermarket/salvage cc would be about $400 installed. The O2 sensor would be $230 installed.
He cautioned me against using an aftermarket O2 sensor.
I'm with your mechanic. I'm beginning to wonder if the CEL light is a dealer profitability enhancement device. My dealer, on the (alleged) cc code, asked if it was running rough/dying while driving. It wasn't -- it's running like a top.
Steve, Host
Also how far over the 105,000 can you go before having the service? Going on vacation and will be close if not past 105,000 when done. I hope to get another 100K out of the van.
Thanks for your help.
If the CEL is indicating a real problem, resetting the code would just not display the CEL for couple days (or little longer) for the CEL to lit back again. It took two days and about 150 miles for the CEL to lit back again in my case. Your mileage may vary.