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"Your "OPINION" is Noted, But Just like Opinions, Everyone has a Sphincter, and more than a few of them STINK>"
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So, you don't know me at all, yet you revert to childish comments like this because it says "Nissan" on my shirt?
And you wonder why the people at the dealership don't seem to be helping you very much?
Maybe you should work on your people skills, Poindexter. That might get you somewhere.
Dealer Service Facilities will not ask for elongated Diagnostic Time to prove that these conditions exist because the Standard Answer is "NO" from regional service reps. My service writer couldn't authorize his technician to drop the pan and check for sedimentary accumulation on the magnet by his standard procedures. That would and normally is the First Thing I would look at after a report of noise, and the fact that they reported to me that the transmission was overfilled with fluid.
You can bet, that I can, and will, at my own cost, and document everything I do and find in Pictures and get to the bottom of this issue.
The reliability of, and integrity of the Dealership Service Departments have, as you well know, declined over the years. The Bottom Line in this, is in it's Name - SERVICE - The lack of True Customer Service in this industry is disgusting. It's all about the Bottom Line. The Liability if we admit or disclose a problem.
Toyota / Lexus had to have known that their "FLY BY WIRE" system had a glitch or two, but that rolled out and killed people.
The Bottom Line, they still made money!
You can Make Money in this busines, and still have integrity, honesty, and competency - My Boss has done it for 17 Years at this location - With No advertising. Sometimes, that takes going the extra mile, or Hour, to get it right.
By the way, that was a very well-written post. I agree with every word. In the dealerships, the culprit is greed--- greed by the owners in paying their techs "flat-rate". You can bet that if the tech was still being paid hourly, they'd be lined up, volunteering to take your car for a 3-hour test drive!!
This is ALL dealerships, by the way.... not just Nissan.
Case in Point:
Now I learn about the trans needing to be a specific temperatures to check for the correct fluid level. (previous Post) - I ran it to temp, and I did pull 1 Pint (still sitting on my desk in a mason jar) from it which reduced the hot level from the stamped "HOT" area of the dipstick, back to the Hashed area - then the dealer said they pulled 21oz additional out of it. Their inspection results as reported to me were "The fluid removed had no sediment and was consistant with expected color and clarity" (My fluid will not allow even a faint light to penetrate through 3 inches of fluid with a streamlight fully charged, and I retrieved the fluid from a BRAND NEW evacuation pump I purchased from Snap On just for this reason) Was the fluid evacuated into a clean apparatus? Was is filtered through a fiberous cloth to check for sediment? "The World May Never Know" :shades:
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Oh, and they did find a tech Note / Bulletin that states that an overfill condition can cause a failsafe occurence. But why no Check Engine or Stored Datum (freeze frame)
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If you see my post about the Temperature Issue, I checked temps with an infrared thermometer. Exterior of course, but a 50+ degree difference between Weighted Datum from the Scanner (Trans Data 2) to the Actual Exterior of the Trans, the Lines, and the Cooler area of the Radiator, it's Possible, but....... My Opinion? Plus the Sensor Voltages (scanner read on Trans Data 1) were consistant with Normal operating Ranges 2.0 vdc = 68 Degrees --- 1.0 vdc = 175 Degrees (my Calculations put that at approx 11 degrees per 1/10 of a volt.
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Then the best was "These transmissions always whine" - after the Failsafe episode, the whine went away until I got it to operating temperature with an ambient temp of 85 outside at freeway speeds - then I coast down a 15 mile grade in Neutral and no whine when I re-engage the the trans, then it heats back up and there's the whine.
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Since the Service Visit it now has a metallic Screech intermittently on Acceleration and an intermittent slip with the tach running up past 6000 rpm before my wife can react to the loss of torque during acceleration.
But yet again, I am sceptical that it never demonstrated these symptoms during the "Extensive Test Drives" when it was in for service.
I can do alot to document from here on out, and will continue to post here on this endeavor. I just hope that Nissan and the Dealerships will take notice of this and not just whip through a 5 mile test drive and call it good or unconfirmed.
There is a problem with these vehicles, some sort of recall action needs to be put in place. I almost got in an accident driving up the mountain beacuse the car slowed down so quickly that all the vehicles behind me had to slam on their breaks, semis were going faster than me...
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Good Luck....... Rusty
ihatethiscar1- I hope you got your issue recolved and can enjoy your trip.
Good Luck!
Took it to dealer today and of course they couldn't duplicate the problem. No code was shown either so they said unless I could prove the problem, they couldnt replace the transmission.
Has anyone thought of making a video when it happened and successfully made them change the tranny using the video? I'm leaving to go on vacation this Friday and plan on drinking over 3000km over 7 days. I will have my camera on standby if the problem arises.
BTW my Rogue is 2008 with 185000 km(115000 miles). In Canada the extended warranty is until 200000km so I have to get this resolved soon!!!
thanks
I will be taking it in soon and request repair. I'm at 60,000kms. probably would have caught it sooner but is wife's car so i rarely drive.
They told me they needed to replace the transmission and I would have my car back within 4 days.
On the 3rd day, Nissan told me that the tranny is on back order and it will take 3 to 4 weeks to receive. So as my car sits at the dealership they gave me a loner car 2012 Rouge with 5200 miles and this tranny has a bad vibration. Does anyone have the same problem?
I do notice engine 'labours' (others call vibration??) a little if RPM is 1800 RPM or below, it reminds me of stick shift when you shift too early and engine RPM is slow.
Hope this is normal.
Surprisingly my '02 accord engine with 150K which I still own is runs much smoother than the Rogue's, but I was suffering from 'fatigue' and 'needed' something new that didn't have to last as long as my Honda (still going strong).
It the Rogues takes me to 2022 and 150K before falling appart I'd quite pleased.
My car was set on cruise control at 75 MPH when suddenly the speed dropped to 45 MPH in a matter of seconds - without warning. I pushed the gas pedal down to the floor but it didn’t do anything. There was also a whining sound like the car was working extra hard. I immediately pulled off the highway; fortunately, there were no cars behind me. I was confused and didn’t know what happened so I sat there a few minutes thinking the car overheated. I thought I would give it a chance to cool down. After about 10 minutes, I put my emergency lights on and got back on the road. I kept the emergency lights on and drove slower to see if it would happen again. It seemed to be okay as long as we didn’t have to go up hill and I kept my speed down, I tested it along the way.
When I got back home, I began researching and found many complaints on 2008 and 2009 Rogue’s that had the same problem as mine. I also found Nissan’s CVT’s warranty extension. At this point I knew my car wasn’t simply overheating but the transmission was bad.
I then scheduled my car for an inspection at Nissan. They acknowledged there was a problem with the transmission and said they believe it may be caused by to much transmission fluid, put in at the factory. They removed some of it and said that nothing else can be done; we just have to wait and see if the problem continues to exist.
A couple months went by when I discovered the problem wasn’t fixed. After the March incident, I stayed around town and didn’t venture out very far, until one day when I got back on the highway and headed towards Fraser Colorado, in the mountains. My grandson and a friend were with me. We hadn’t been on the road for long, when again, I quickly lost acceleration and the whining noise started. I put on my emergency lights and took the next exit ramp home.
At this point I was nervous, angry, and frightened many emotions took over. All I could think of was the possibility of a dreadful accident that could have taken the life of my grandson and others. Driving at high speeds then quickly losing speed with no indication (brake lights) to the drivers behind me is without question a potentially deadly situation. Thankfully, no other vehicles were close behind me.
I scheduled another appointment with Nissan. This time they said the transmission was bad and it would have to be replaced.
In spite of a new transmission, I do not feel safer. I have read blogs from people with ’08 & ’09 Rogues that had the transmission replaced and it went out again, not always right away. I believe it is a matter of when – not if.
So now I have a dilemma, do I not get on the highway anymore, do I not go to the mountains anymore for business or pleasure, do I sell my car - giving the problem with someone else. All these are unacceptable to me. I didn’t purchase the vehicle only to use sometimes and I wouldn’t sell an unsafe vehicle to anyone knowing their lives and others are at risk.
I have contacted Nissan Consumer Affairs and requested they buy back or switch vehicles for a model that doesn’t have a history of transmission or safety problems. They refused, but offered an extended Power Train warranty. I have made it very clear to them that I don’t care about an extended warranty, just the safety of others.
I will be contacting an attorney.
from 75 to 30 mph in like 1 second.
It happened to me on 470 and on I-70.
this is worst car ever I have a hyundai elantra over 150000 miles and it never gave a problem like this.
So thanks for the report!
And maybe it's better to tell you what states my '99 Quest has lived in. First year was in Anchorage, then a long road trip, then ten years in Boise (105 wasn't uncommon, but it was a dry heat :shades: ). The last two years in the UP of Michigan. Not warm.
But back to the thread, it's bad that most people posting in here have had issues. The question is what percent of owners does that represent. If it's more than 3 or 4%, then Nissan will be losing big time on warranty claims. No consolation, but they've lost money on you and may have lost some future sales from people reading your posts. :sick:
After my 4th visit with multiple incidents since last spring, Nissan took some fluid out one time, then they said it was a bad crank shaft position sensor. None of these resolved the problem.
Finally this week, they agreed to replace the TX just under the wire since my 2008 Rogue has 198600km on it! I hope this will resolved the problem for good...
Before I do, does anyone know the new models are any different in terms of transmission? Have they been redesigned? Does any one know the reliability of 2012/13 models.
Thanks in advance
In my struggles, prior to getting rid of our Rogue, I wasn't disappointed with the vehicle, but when it did have a problem, Nissan's representatives were not willing to address it. Nor were they willing to replace the transmission as they did before.
If you want to purchase one, just make sure you take into account that there is a standing warranty extension on the transmission due to the problems thay have had with them. The failure rate is not high enough for a complete recall. You will probably not get much support from Nissan as the vehicle reaches 100,000 miles.
Good Luck !
Knowing the issue still exists in the vehicle, very likely we may consider other options.
Once you noticed the Pulsation, you went to the dealer. The dealer should have removed the wheels, and measured the latteral runout. Then identified the need to remachine/reface the rotors. A slight amount of runout can be corrected with refacing, but may return after time. I have seen this too many times. They may or may not recommend pad replacement also, depending on their warranty offerred for the service.
Proving the incorrect torque by the shop that rotated the tires is impossible at this point, as the tires have probably been removed and reinstalled by the brake check technician. Unless the dealer service person documented the what you told them completely, and then the technician made a note of what he found when he removed the tires with a hand tool, instead of the normal removal with an impact wrench. (Chances are this didn't happen).
Brake rotors can, and do develop runout if you drive in an area with alot of hills or decending grades. It would take some very heavy braking to occur daily to do this though.
Most shop guidlines, require that technicians hand torque or use torque limiting devices when reinstalling wheels and tires. This said, that takes extra time and if not enforced by management, can often be one of the first procedures not followed in the interest of saving time and getting the next vehicle into the shop.
The tire rotation is normally complimentary or at a very low cost and is necessary for proper tire wear. (Midas bundles a complete oil change with a tire rotation for $29.99 here in Ca.) With these oil change deals, most places loose money, but the benefit for the Auto Shop is that they get you in the door and then through a complimentary inspection, identify additional service recommendations and sell you that service, flush, or identified repair. Vehicles with less than 50,000 to 60,000 miles are not considered to be good profit candidates, but the shop wants you back for the future service.
Here is some advise I give:
If you are using an "Upsell" motivated service facility, then stop! Pay for a good reputable shop to change your oil and do the less glamorous services (LOF and Tire Rotation about $40 to $60) Then reward them with the major service intervals and normal repairs.
Insist on "HAND TORQUE" when installing wheels. (Make it a point when you drop your vehicle off and write it on the service order / request if it isn't documented)
Find a GOOD, REPUTABLE, HONEST shop and stay with them for everything, or solicit their recommendation for services they do not offer. (Use BBB, Yelp, Angie's List, or some other research tool when looking for a shop)
Always inspect the failed or replaced parts!
Ask Questions. There are no Dumb, Stupid, Silly questions when you hand someone your hard earned money for work you may or may not understand, or can see that it was accomplished.
Let the shop EARN YOUR BUSINESS!
Good Luck,
Rusty (Auto Service Manager, San Diego, Ca.)