Hyundai Elantra 5-door

imabirder

I have a 2002 GT Elantra that is 5 months old with 17k miles. My left front fog light went out last week. It was replace free of charge (even though it was beyond 12k warranty) after the dealer contact a company rep.

Two days later the right fog light went out!? I am taking it to the dealer today to see about getting it replaced (free of charge).

Is there a known (or recognized) problem with GT or Elantra head/fog lights?

revka

Sorry to hear about your head/fog light problem. You may also want to post (copy/paste) your question in our Elantra Problem discussion. Good luck.

Revka

Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

mxo11

Hi all,

I was going to say "guys" but then I thought about the PepBoys commercial and how not everybody here is a guy, which is very cool, methinks!

Anyway, thank you Ingtonge18 for your helpful suggestion. The only problem was to make my college-day eraser last for the whole operation! (It was like like cutting down an oak tree with a nail file, but heck, it worked!).

I checked the Hyundai web site to verify if I was entitled to the perks related to the horse-power ad. It appears I'm not. Does this mean my car has a 140 horse-power engine? I've been looking around the manual and all the papers associated with it but I can't seem to find any info related to this issue. Any ideas?

I thought I had posted this message about a week ago but it seems I didn't! Merry Christmas everybody!

Thanks!

csandste

It does to the base Tibby with the same engine, because the Tibby mysteriously dropped a couple of extra horses more than the Elantra. That's the only thing that bothers me. It's like everyone else got a small gift. Other than that I'm happy with the car and please let's not start another slew of "let's sue 'em" posts.

tttech

First let me say that the GT is a great car for the money. However VALUE goes so far. I've had my 02 for 9 months now and continually find aspects of dissatisfaction. Oil levels, washers, horsepower misrepresentation, fuel gauge/computer accuracy and the like have seen their share of postings here at Edmunds and elsewhere. Hyundai should take heed of this type of talk.

My personal disappointment is from the area of poor paint and a strong solid body. Not only have I noticed two places where the paint has chipped away but on the hood a spot exists where bird droppings weren't promptly removed leaving a splashed type spot of flaked away paint and exposed white undercoat/metal whatever. Now that snow has arrived in PA I continue my routine of tapping my boots on the bottom side of the drivers door to shake off excess snow. This minimizes the amount brought inside that melts and at times refreezes (no garage) on the floor mat. Guess what? Having done this only 5-6 times it has caused dents in the underside rocker pannel. Isn't the metal there to be extra strong and protect from road hazards? No other car I've had over the last 23 years has showed any impact from my doing so. I never would have dreamed that the structure would be so weak and impressionable in this area.

Yes I know my neglect and actions caused these problems but my past history with cars led me to believe they're all sound with paint/body. Perhaps waiting 11 years to buy again left an impression of good external quality, or perhaps my first Hyundai experience will also be my last.

th003g

ummm...how hard are you tapping? i've had 3 hyundai's and a myriad of much more expensive cars and I try not to tap with toes of my shoes but the side of my shoe and the "non rubber part" the Hyundai's i've had have had no issues with denting with taps...if your slamming teh edge of the shoe against any sheetmetal of course its going to dent... neither have any other cars i've driven.... your really getting into the nitty gritty it seems with oil levels, gauge accuracy...the gauges are a general representation and you should always use them as such and not an actual means to see how much gas you have left...i usually fill up after it gets to less than 1/4 tank anyways... my Land Cruiser that i've been driving does the same thing with the fuel levels... and its a 50k car...ditto in the Jag personally i haven't had a problem with bird droppings... and I park outside for most of the day at work under a tree which seems to attract a flock of bird that have gastrointestinal problems... just wipe it off with a wet towel/ polish and buff...comes right out even after a few days...
it seems people want to find something wrong with their car to complain about because of its lack of major problems... and because its a hyundai and they feel that it should have problems...i'd rather have a hyundai with little issues mentioned in tehis forum than a X5/focus with all the recalls, or a camry with its engine sludge issue, or a honda wiht its bad tranny...

gt_fan

... look at the BMW 7 series posts. Those folks have issues that make the 80's Excel look like a paragon of reliability. I've had had just a couple of things go wrong with my GT, (a couple of screw-hole plugs in the doors have popped loose, the sunvisor retainer broke, the CD player doesn't like to take new discs when the car is really cold.) but if the BMW owner's problems had happened with my Hyundai, I'd be screaming bloody murder!

The GT's paint and sheetmetal thickness may not be its best features, but I wouldn't touch my shoes to the paint on any new car. At the very least, the grit from your shoes is going to damage the paint eventually. When I want to get the snow off of my feet, I kick the tires.

backy

Intrigued by the idea of denting a rocker panel by kicking snow off my shoes/boots, I did a test today on my '01 GLS. I kicked my toes (dress shoes) several times against the top of the rocker panel, which I assume is its strongest point. No dents. I then tapped more carefully lower down on the rocker panel, which I would tend not to do because A) it would normally be pretty dirty in the winter and it's kind of awkward. The metal there seemed thinner, with a more hollow sound, than when I kicked up high. So I could see if I kicked hard enough with a hard boot down low on the rocker panel, I might put a dent in it. But I never kick the rocker panels on cars to knock snow off my shoes/boots anyway. Instead I sit down in the seat, hang my feet outside, kick them together, and swing them back inside. Haven't dented my feet yet. I've taught my kids to do the same thing before they get into my cars.

saber86

It just goes to show the quality does not always equal to reliable cars. As I have posted in kia forum, I used to work as a disptcher for a large auto club aka (manufactures road side program). One of our clients at the time was jaguar. You would not believe how many calls we get a day from jaguar owners having problems with their vehicle. There is no doubt on the luxury quality of the car, but far as reliability goes they are at the bottom.

vadp

Used to be.

Now it gets very high quality ratings.

http://www.jdpa.com/studies_jdpower/pressrelease.asp?StudyID=410&CatID=1

http://www.jdpa.com/studies_jdpower/pressrelease.asp?StudyID=619&CatID=1

gt_fan

servo_fan

Hi everyone. I've been following along here for a long time and thought I'd share the following in case anyone is interested (or cares). The clock in my 10 week old '02 Elantra GT wigged out about 2 weeks ago. It started just losing a little time, then the next thing you know, lots of time lost, you couldn't adjust the time, and a severe flickering when the lights were turned on. I'm surprised I didn't have a seizure when driving at night! Got the clock replaced today (under warranty of course) but found out that the little clock costs about $100. Had this not been a warranty item it would have cost about $140!! For that goofy little clock? Hope it doesn't die again after the warranty is up. Happy Holidays.

revka

to share your recent experience. Glad they got your clock working again. And yes, thank goodness for warranties! Little things like that can be very expensive. We look forward to hearing more about your Elantra GT. Happy motoring!

Revka

Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

5port

servo fan

I have a 2001.5 GT and had the same problem after about 6 months. My clock display would go blank randomly and sometimes return. The service dept just replaced it (they had them in stock!) and its been fine since. The fact that they had them in stock tells me they knew about the failing clocks. Service has been very good about repairs. Enjoy your GT.

gt_fan

Now if they would just stock clocks in purple to match the gauges. Then I'd be happy if mine went out!

th003g

i got a problem...
see my cousins selling his CRX si...
he is going to "gift" it to me... its in perfect condititon...low mileage 91, he jsut spent 2k upgrading it and replacing some parts...
As you know... I "own" a 2001.5 Elantra GT
(auto)...my father bought it for me to replace the hand me down Raider...its in my name... his money...
there is another 4 cars currently in the family...
a 96 XJR...
a 96 Toyota LC
a 95 Accent...
a 2002 Elantra GLS
and here's the deal... there are only 2 "real" drivers' in the family... me and my mom... my sister is 18 and has a license but is away at college most of the year.. my mom however refuses to drive anything but the Accent for fear of messing the other cars up...so i'm the only one left..that leaves me with 2 Boutique cars, 2 Elantra's and soon 1 CRX...now I am paying insurance on the GT myself but dont want to add insurance of the CRX on top of that...
what should I do... convince my father to sell the GLS and have my cousin buy it? (he wants a sedan for his family..)
get rid of the accent and make my mom drive the GLS? (leaving us with 5 cars)
junking/giving away the Accent, selling the GLS to my cuz or someone, giving mom the GT... leaving me the CRX my sis sharing the GLS with my mom
(selling the LC or the XJR is out of the question since they'd fetch less than what we value them at... *very low mileage*)
selling the elantras on the private market will not generate much intrest in the price range i'd like to get...
even if i dont register the CRX right away I know it'll sell if i decide to because its a very popular car...and I have yet to learn to drive manual...
damnit...
any ideas?

footbag

I just installed a Kenwood MP3 CD player into my GT. I took the dash apart, as has been mentioned here in past posts, and removed the stock CD player without any trouble. Once I got my Kenwood hooked up, but before I reassembled everything, I tested the set up out (to make sure my speakers, etc, were wired correctly). Everything worked great, except I noticed that the purple dash lights, as well as the center console whitesh lights no longer came on. I put everything back to stock, and still nothing. I checked fuses, and nothing. So I'm now running a real nice MP3 deck, but I have no other illumination inside the car. As a point of clarification, my turn signal lights, and TCS/Brake/etc lights due function on the dash, and the clock appears, and everything else (cig lighter) works, just not the lights. Does anyone have any idea what I might have done, and how I can get out of my dilemma? Thanks

Andrew

gpagpa

Its been snowing here recently, now I have a question regarding the TCS. What exactly is it supposed to do? Will it prevent wheel spin? I noticed when I was leaving an inclined parking lot covered with snow and ice that the TCS light came on but I was still not moving since the wheels were spinning in the snow. Just want to know what it will and will not do for future use.

gpagpa

Went to the dealership to get my first oil change since they mentioned that I would get it for free if I brought in a copy of the survey. I had been noticing the usual sounds coming from the front left windshield and rear passenger side when going over bumps. Alerted them of this, but the problem, like everyone knows, is that it does not happen all the time and to recreate the noises on demand is tricky. I was able to get the manager in the car to hear the noises from the passenger rear. He did hear them and brought the car back up onto the ramp. He thought it had something to do with the disc brakes/struts etc. I questioned him about any other owners experiencing this and he said no. He did mention that his department experienced some stripped drain plugs. I can't remember where the previous posts are that detailed what other people informed their service techs and what the appropriate work that needed to be done. Any input?

gpagpa

What is everyone out there doing for reccomended service for their GT's? Also, is everyone getting the oil changed after 3750 miles and thereafter? I guess the next one for me would include a tire rotation. The service ranges from $19 (oil change) to $400, 30k maintenance, with various prices in between for milage up to 30K. I understand that the oil changes need to be done, but what other things are important. Looks like a lot of checking and topping off liquids etc. If I am being cheap, someone let me know. thanks

backy

TCS - it's supposed to help with wheel spin, but it can't work miracles. The incline on ice/snow may have been too much for it. You were using light throttle pressure, right? Another trick is to start in 2nd gear to lower engine revs.

Noises - some owners have reported that tightening the front strut mounting nuts just a bit can help with front end noise. Others have had their windshields reseated to quiet noises up there. In back, be sure the spare tire is tightened down and the tools aren't clanging around.

Maintenance - I stick to the 3750 interval for oil changes because I only drive about 8000 miles a year and a lot of that is short trips, and in cold weather. $19 for an oil change seems reasonable, but watch out on the bigger services, like 15k and 30k. Some dealers try to slip in services that are not required by Hyundai's maintenance schedule, like fuel system cleaning. These can really add up. So have your maintenance schedule with you when you talk to the service writer and be clear that you only want the manufacturer's recommended services, plus anything else you are sure you want (like tire rotations). Then get an estimate on only those services. If you are handy at all with cars, you can do the fluids checks/topping offs yourself and save a few bucks.

fgaydos

I never had to use the low range gears on the auto transmission until last week in the snow.
Can someone tell me what the difference is in the numbers 2-3 and L are used for?
Also, if you start in 2 , can you shift into D after you get going?
TIA

204meca

After 4 months of seemingly endless research, multiple test drives, dealer negotiations..., I finally made a decision. It took a 200 mile test drive in the Elantra GT to convince my wife & I we could pass up the 02 VW GTI & 02 Civic Si for the Elantra GT.

All above cars are excellent rigs, all have some flaws & reliablity questions. In terms of overall performance & comfort, the Elanta GT comes in 3rd, extremely close to the Si in my humble opinion. In the end the Elanta GT met & exceeded all my needs, has a better warranty, lower cost to own, and cost over $3000 less than the closest competitor (both 02 models). The truth be told, I just did not feel justified spending more than 7$K!

I purchased the HGT with sunroof for $6,070 cash (including Tax & license!) plus my 97 Del Sol Si. I still have plenty of money left over for a strut bar and better bigger tires (205/60 HR15 Dunlop Sport A2s on OE rims).

Time will tell if this was the best decision. I suspect I will occasionally long for cheap summer thrill of the SOC VTEC running thru the gears with the top down, but right now I am quite happy!

I appreciate all the help I have gotten on Edmunds! I will miss you all, it is time to get on to real life priorities.

PS Please pray for a peacefull solution to the Iraq situation.

clayman1

Good luck with your purchase.

I've had mine for two months now and am just loving it.

tjm1957

I've had my 2001.5 GT for thirteen months/17,000
miles now. No problems, nothing but fun.

Now here's the problem. I've noticed, on at least four occasions, a humming vibrating sound coming
from the rear driver's side, right before my
cell phone rings!

It sounds like an electric motor.

When I mentioned this to the service department,
they looked at me like I was nuts.

Has anyone else experienced/heard of this occurring? Are there any RF controlled parts in the GT?

revka

May your Elantra GT serve you well for many years to come. Also, don't be stranger. We look forward to any ownership experiences you'd like to share with us.... Happy motoring!

Hi tjm1957- You may also want to copy/paste your message in our Elantra Owners - Problem & Solutions discussion. Someone there may be able to offer some feedback. Good luck.

Revka

Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

backy

Maybe a stupid question, but... you didn't have your cell phone on "vibrate + ring" on those occasions, did you?

clayman1

Easy solution to your possible phone problem...
Have the service man call you while in the shop with phone in car.
It could work!

gt_fan

For those of you wanting a more sporting feel to the suspension of your Elantra, check out the recent addition to the Garage section of Wayne Moses' GT site:

http://www.gwebworks.com/elantra_gt/garage3.shtml

The rear swaybar for the 2003 Tiburon fits the Elantra and seriously tightens up the handling. Check it out.

steven39

hello, iam considering a new gt
and have read all the posts on this forum. but i got a few questions. i presentley own a 95 chevy cavalier that is approching 100,000 miles and i estimate that i have done approximitley 25 oil changes since the car was new. all with the same oil drain bolt and oil pan. and also with the same headlights, and cd player.
if the gt is that great then why am i hearing about people haveing to replace thier oil drain plugs and/or oil pans after 1 oil change as well as headlghts blowing out within 1 year of ownership. this does not make sense to me. i think it comes down to the old addage u get what u pay for and its as simple as that. thank you steve

jimbeaumi

The adage sometimes rings true, but I can tell you from my experience that you get more than you pay for with an Elantra. If you look more closely at the oil pan trouble, those cases were the fault of clumsy and stupid oil techs stripping threads. As for headlights, the few who have had to replace them are not in the majority. As just one example, mine are originals from 18 months ago.

Believe me, I was always inclined to buy American cars until I researched this one (mine is a GLS). The test drive sold me, and I have been happy for nearly 24K miles. I am glad you had such good service from your Cavalier (my '87 Lynx was my high mileage benchmark), but I seriously doubt you'll duplicate it with another American small car.

lngtonge18

I agree with what was said above by jimbeaumi. I was one of those who had the oil pan threads stripped (though my car is an Accent not Elantra). I did my own oil changes when the car was in my possession and never ran into a problem. A quick lube place (Firestone to be exact) stripped the bolt on the first oil change after I sold the car to my friend. The pan didn't need to be replaced, just the bolt. This was a case of someone trying to do the job too quickly and forcing the bolt in. As for the headlights, that can be attributed to a bad bulb, bad socket, or someone who uses their lights more than normal. My former Accent now has 32k and is almost 3 years old and is still running on the original headlights (although one license plate light and one brake light were replaced). Volvo and the Chevy Malibu both had problems with lights burning out too quickly so that old adage doesn't hold true in those cases. I don't think you should let a bulb or drain plug deter you from buying a car. I would be more concerned about the actual reliability of the car, which appears to be good for the Elantra so far.

wmoses

steven39 asks -

if the gt is that great then why am i hearing about people haveing to replace thier oil drain plugs and/or oil pans after 1 oil change as well as headlghts blowing out within 1 year of ownership.

The answers to your questions are quite simple actually.

Oil pan / drain plug -- The oil pan is aluminum (as are the head of this engine - weight concerns) and the drain plug is steel. The 95 Cavalier had steel oil pan, I believe. Besides, how can one fault a manufacturer for the incompetence of a person replacing a bolt in a threaded hole?

Bulbs -- many cars have Daytime Running Lights (DRLs) which means that the bulbs are used more. Many folk drive with their lights on more these days than they did before, irrespective of if their vehicles are fitted with DRLs. The factory bulbs in the Elantra are Sylvania / Osram, not Hyundai. Halogen bulbs are very susceptible to failure if contaminated when installed. If these bulbs are touched as they are installed, this could lead to premature failure.

CD player -- I have no problems with my CD player which is now 14 months old. Plays all my CDs, including CD-Rs.

I don't think that you can compare the 1995 Cavalier with the 2003 Elantra when it comes to quality. I would not even compare the 1995 Cavalier to my 1995 Elantra.

If you are considering buying a GT, rest assured that in most respects (esp. quality, fit and finish, N/V/H) the Hyundai of today is more competitive with the Japanese products than with the offerings from North America for cars in their class.

clayman1000

Steven,

If you want even handed reviews try this link.

http://www.gwebworks.com/elantra_gt/reviews.shtml

I shopped around all the cars in the GT's class and am convinced I made a good purchase decision. For the money it is a great car. Period!!

csandste

Have a 97 Cav. and the difference in quality between these two cars is very noticible. I didn't realize how crude that car was until I got the Elantra.

I've taken my Elantra to Wal-Mart for oil changes and they haven't stripped anything yet, even though they're not the sharpest tacks in the pack.

As far as lights, the Elantra uses H7/H1's more common to high end cars such as Lexuses. I have gone through three H7 bulbs and replaced the H1's as a precaution last summer. I do wish the Elantra came with standard bulbs as they do seem more durable, you can get them in long-life versions as well-- unlike the H1's and H7's. I found my first bulb change to be far harder to handle than the standard units, but the job goes faster with more experience.

Other than the bulbs I've had absolutely not one thing go wrong with the car. 4000 mile oil changes and rotations every 8000 and I'm home free. Still haven't been back to the dealer in 31,000 miles. Will probably get an independent mechanic to do the 30K check with coolant change in the next week or so.

The Cavalier has given me little trouble for 80000 miles, although there's been a fair amount of ignition problems. Compared to the Elantra, however, it's very uncomfortable and crude and the quality of materials is far worse.

I wish Chevy well and GM is on an improvement path, unlike Ford. The Cavalier platform should have been replaced ten years ago. The 03 redesign simply made a pretty if crude car, ugly and crude. The money would have been better spent in pushing up the replacement date by a few months.

clayman1000

Click and clack give it two thumbs up!! :>)

http://cartalk.cars.com/Info/Testdrive/Reviews/hyundai-elantra-gt-2002.html

A snippit:
" Five-door hatchbacks like the Elantra GT make a lot of sense, which may be why you're finally starting to see more of them on the showroom floor. In addition to the aforementioned Saab 9-3, Mazda is selling its Protege5, Kia has the five-door hatchback Rio, and Ford, Toyota and Pontiac are all getting into the act with the Focus ZX5, Matrix and Vibe, respectively. But excluding the Rio, which is really much smaller than the Elantra, not one of these vehicles is within $2,000 of the Hyundai's base price -- and that's before you begin adding options to bring them to the Hyundai's level of equipment.

We wish for a little more power from a standing start, but that's a quibble in a $14,000 car. We have to admit that at this price, it's hard to find fault with the Elantra GT."

Wayne, you may want to add this review to your site.

wmoses

clayman1000 suggested --

Wayne, you may want to add this review to your site.

Done. I thought about it before, Frank, and didn't agree with their harping on a power deficit, and I guess I decided to skip them.

I figure, if all the other reviews say that it has good performance, albeit a "soft launch", then it would temper Click and Clack's opinion.

I find it has lots of power on the highway ... or course I have a K & N Filtercharger, Mobil One, and Bosch Platinum Plus 4 plugs, all of which help.

steven39

thanx for your kind replies and i do appreciate them but i was not comparing the quality of the cavalier to the elantra it just seems that the headlights, and the oil drain plug should be a little more sturdier maybe iam just being pickie anyway thanx.
steve

megalomaniac

what has happened is that u have left the dimmer switch disconnected on the left side of the dash panel. all the lights are feeed power from that switch. plug it in and everything should operate normally

gtovrit

Okay, I only learn the hard way. I installed a Fiamm set of air horns, and didn't completely follow the instructions. I just changed the harness connections and plugged them in. They worked and sound great, but I didn't use the horn relay provided or put in a larger (recommended) fuse. You guessed it, after about a month, it doesn't work anymore. I don't know if I blew the horn fuse (what do those under the
hood block fuses look like when they burn?), or if the original relay is shot now. Anyone know where to find the horn relay? If I can't do this myself, I'll (gulp) take it to a professional. I do have the relay that came with the kit.

megalomaniac

the relay is under one of the small relay under the hood. the easy way to check it is to open the hood and remove the fuse box cover and press the horn and see if the relay clicks. do that with the car off. the fuse is a 15 mini fuse near the front of the box, the third one up from the fender. the relay is on the second row of relays from the fender and the third relay over from the front of the car. if u have any other questions like this anyone can ask me or email me because i am a hyundai tech here in plano area( mikedog25@msn.com) let me know if this helps

gtovrit

Megalomaniac,
You are a godsend. As a Hyundai tech, you will be invaluable on this board. Like I said, I only learn the hard way. If I had looked closer, I would have seen the box cover says "fuses and relays", I thought it was just blade fuses and some weird Hyundai box fuses I'd never seen before. I've also owned mostly American cars and much older foreign cars, and didn't know that you can't really see a burnt fuse from the top, you have to remove it to look.
It was a burnt fuse, I put the spare 15 amp in, and it worked again. I love that European air horn sound. They cost me $14.00 at Harbor Freight. Now for my follow up questions-the Fiamm instructions call for a 20 amp fuse. Will I be asking for trouble to install one in the place of the 15? Too much amperage for the wires? Or not a problem? The relay that came with the air horns-it won't plug directly in place of the Hyundai one, but the markings near the blades on the bottom are the same numbers as Hyundai. I could, without too much trouble, devise a way to jumper this relay so that it is installed instead of the original. My question is-if the horns work using the original relay, do I need to replace it with the new one, or is a fuse upgrade enough? The Hyundai relay says it is 20 amps, and has a 15 amp fuse, the Fiamm says 30 amps, and calls for a 20 amp fuse.
My original thought was that if it worked as is, how often do you use the horn in more than a short blast, so it shouldn't overload and blow a fuse or the relay, right? Well, this obviously isn't the case, since I did blow the fuse, probably goofing around in an underpass. You know, some kids never grow up.
Again, Mike, thanks for your help, you saved me from sitting at the shop on my birthday, and countless dollars to tell me a fuse was blown.
PS I'm in Ft. Worth, who's the best tech dept in the FW/Arlington area. There's only 3 dealers, do you know who to recommend?

gtovrit

Careful, now, I'm thinking. Does Hyundai have a 30amp relay that has the same blade pattern as the 20amp? I pulled all the relays to check, and only found 10s and 20s. If not Hyundai, is there a universal or something that will work? This would be much easier than me modifying the Fiamm one.

andil1

Take a look at the Detroit Car Show: http://www.autoweek.com/specials/2003_detroit/

Click on Dodge, then the Avenger. Are we slightly ahead of our time or what? Also take a look at the Hyundai OLV concept.

megalomaniac

i am unsure of a 30 amp relay that hyundai has. are you replacing the stock horns for the other horns or just adding them to the car? if you are adding them to car i would put a separate switch and wiring for the horns, that would be the easiest thing to do. i wouldnt be adding the horns over the regular horns, it might cause wiring problems and might lead to big and costly repairs. the wiring is made to handle what it has so if you add a horn that uses twice the amps you might be askin for trouble.

gtovrit

I am replacing the original horns. I just added wiring to connect the new ones, then disconnected the old ones. The new ones only call for a 20 amp fuse, the original is 15. The new relay is 30, the original is 20.

gt_fan

That Avenger looks pretty good. I wonder where I can get a set of those oversize wheels for my GT? (hehe!)

megalomaniac

if they dont go up that much then it would probably be ok to switch them, hyundai doesnt have that big of a relay so u will have to go aftermarket and find one

gt_fan

When I installed my air horns, I used the relay that came with them. I attached the wire that used to be attached to the stock horn to the relay as the trigger. That way, the cars wiring isn't asked to supply the much greater power required by the horn's air pump. I used heavy gauge wire for the connections to ground, 12v (straight from the battery via an in-line fuse), and to the pump.

I wouldn't ever change the size of a fuse in the car's fuse box. They're probably sized the way they are for a reason. The wiring they protect may not be up to the demands of a higher current device.

joffficer

My last oil change (#2 @ 6k miles) I added a sure drain plug/valve. Went on easy enough... just like the plug, and seems to be working well (no leaks). Has anyone else installed one on their GT? Any problems?
So far with 7500 miles of stop and go driving my GT is doing great. I changed the horn to the fiamms (I didn't use the relay, but no problems with a lot of use.... I think I'll re-do that one, though)