By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
As a Subaru, Mazda and Honda guy, I'm not normally a fan of Korean offerings, but let me tell you -- the Elantra GT would be first on my list if I were in the market for something in that price range.
It's just a great package that exudes the class of a car well beyond its window sticker.
Thanks! *thumbsup*
Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
If you never locked the car but leave the keys in your pocket and later find the car locked its because something in your pocket made contact with the remote and caused it to lock (happens to all of us).
Could be worse...my friend with a Vette has a proximity key. If he is anywhere near the car it locks. He has got to put his keys in the house when he is washing his car.
Thanks for any input.
P.S. I know $140 is a lot of money, but that kind of expletive is offensive to some people... like me.
How did you program the code for your new remote? Did you get it done by the dealer? ($$$???)
Otoluva, I think paying ANYTHING over invoice is too much. I would get a print out of Edmunds' TMV and start looking around, based on that price. Just be patient and firm!
To otoluva- As mxo11 suggested, check out the TMV (true market value) pricing tools in our New Vehicle Guide. This will give you the average price (not lowest) others are paying in your region. Also, please note: TMV pricing does not take into account Manufacturer-to-Consumer rebates. So be sure to check Edmunds' Incentives and Rebates section to see if there are any consumer discounts available in your area. You'll want to subtract that amount from the TMV. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your purchase.
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
Is a website that sales OEM Keyless Entry's. Some can be programmed by overriding the system, others have to be programmed by the dealer. In the case of NEWER (2001 and Newer) Hyundai’s require they need to be programmed by the dealer but the remote would run $44. I imagine that the additional $100 would be for programming. Unfortunately the $140 price is about right.
.
http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/iindex.asp?id=394882833#_394882- - 833
It tells how to set the codes by removing the center facia panel and pulling out the ETACS CM on that there is a code saving switch that needs to be placed at "set". It doesn’t appear any major tools are needed with exception to removing the facia. If that doesn’t work then the dealer would need to use HI-SCAN. I personally haven’t tried it, nor have I needed to. I just stumbled across it in recent reading.
Megalomaniac should be able to confirm if pulling the ETACS CM our for re-programming works or if the HI-SCAN is needed
Anyone else notice this behavior?
My story is this: I need to get a car because of a job change that requires a commute each day. I was looking at the usual suspects: Accord, Civic, Corolla, Grand Prix, Mazda6. None of them were exactly what I wanted: either the car was nice but a bit pricey, or the price was right but I didn't care for the vehicle.
Last week I was driving home one day and passed a dark blue Elantra GT hatch. I had never seen one before and something about it appealed to me visually. I think it was the resemblance to some Saabs of past years. I have done some preliminary checking on the net and haven't found anyone saying anything bad about it - in fact, many are raving about how great it is. I never would have thought I'd be considering a Hyundai before, but I am.
I'm working my way through the postings here, but if anyone here has specifics to add I'd appreciate it. I'm a big guy so for any others out there like me, how are the accommodations? Any particular weaknesses to be aware of?
I'm in Canada and I've discovered a couple of differences between our GT and the American offering. Leather is not standard up here, and the warranty is not as long. Interesting.
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
1) Was your price of $13,375, including the 1000 rebate or was there one at that time? If it was, it is still a great price for a car with style and features. In May 2002, I was helping a friend look at a GT at McCafferty (Auto, sunroof, no abs) for $14,900. At the time I thought that was a fair price (about 150 over invoice, but it seemed too easy to negotiate on that price (Maybe now I can see why, considering the deal you got). As it turned out he ended up getting a used 99 Maxima.
2) Also, who was the salesman you dealt with? ( the one we dealt with was very friendly and easy going, but can't remember his name right now)
3) Did you shop anywhere else , and if so what was your experience compared to McCafferty? We went to a couple others but none were very helpful. Advice to anyone in the Philly area, DON'T GO TO NORTHEAST AUTO OUTLET!!! I live right across the street from them( no kidding) and decided that since they were so pompous, the 10-15 mile drive to McCafferty was worth it, and they couldn't beat the price or the interest rate. By the way the same car we test drove (pewter) was still there a month after we were there. LOL!!!!
I am asking this info because I am thinking about a GT sedan or hatchback sometime after I get out of school in May( hence my username), and would like a contact to make the process smoother. It would be great if it was the same guy we dealt with. Thanks!!!
Things that I would like to see in this vehicle are(not in that order):
1. Better quality paint(doesn't match my Passat's)
2. Reinforced rails, on which front seats are moving forward/backward. Elantra is not recommended by CR because of offset crash worthiness. I think those rails are the culprit - they are too thin. When looking at the place where rails are attached to the car floor, you will see why seat may come off if another car will hit Elantra from the side(the metal is very thin where rail is bolted to the floor).
3. Lights for the rear seats.
4. Something that would prevent passenger seat-belt buckle rattle against the trim, when seat-belt is not in use.
The issue #2 is probably something I would wish the most, the rest doesn't bother me.
The only 2 other cars, that I considered when I bought GT, were Mazda P5 and Toyota Matrix. Similarly optioned they were costing 3-4 K more and I didn't see anything in those cars that was worth it.
Re the seat rails, there was a thread recently in the Hyundai Elantra board about the seat rails. It got a little heated and was terminated by our Host, but an interesting tidbit from it was that apparently the seat rails have been redesigned for the Korean-spec Elantras (Avante XD) to make them longer and to increase their tensile strength. I am checking with HMA to see if there are any plans to put those parts on the U.S. Elantras (which would make the parts available over here for current owners, assuming they fit), and I'll let you know what I find out.
Re the seat belt buckle, I've learned to take care of that little annoyance by just reaching over and straightening the belt so the buckle points towards the seat, or by pulling on the belt so it's draped over the seatback bolster. It's become automatic with me over the nearly 2-1/2 years I've owned my Elantra. I heard that some owners have glued felt patches on the B pillars of their GTs to deaden the noise from the buckles.
As far as poor shifting, there are at least a couple of TSBs that address that problem. I recommend that you find another dealer. My local dealer, 5 miles from home, although convenient, is grossly inept; I drive 60 miles to a competent dealer when I need service.
Perhaps someone should start a new thread, rating dealerships, if that's allowable. I suspect, when Hyundai first began to sell cars in the U.S. in the '80s, they weren't too careful with their dealer selection criteria. Of the horror stories I've read or heard, nearly all have been dealer-related (rather than manufacturing defects).
I just ticked 3,000 miles on my 03 GT this last weekend (actually hit 3,050) and it's time to at least do an oil change, I need to check the owner's manual to see if it's a recommended dealer stop.
My big question is I recall in one of my slogs through the longer Hyundai boards, there was some sort of problem with the oil plug/threads when doing oil changes? I usually just use Jiffy Lube, since I have to spend less time, both in general and in fending off additional charges, but is this a concern? I don't really want to have to schedule a bloody oil change with a Jiffy Lube right around the corner from me here at work, but if it's a significant risk I'll go to the dealer and slap them until I get a reasonable charge.
Anyone?
KF
A steel oil plug in an aluminum oil pan means an overly zealous mechanic can strip the oil pan. A couple of oil changes after purchase I noticed the service dept was overfilling my engine (way above the full mark). This sparked me to buy the Fumoto oil change valve and do changes myself. With the valve you install it once and never deal with the threads again.
Why change oil at 3000 miles? Hyundai recommends 3750 for "severe service", 7500 for normal service. I do it at 3750 and rotate tires at 7500.
the tabs are anchors for child seats . its that simple
good luck
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
-Molding on inner rear hatch came apart(fixed with a little adhesive at the dealer)
-some minor rattles(hatch area), not much anyone can do. I did find that the spare seems to loosen a little after a while. I put a an old blanket under the tire so it cushions and absorbs sound
-only major issue is the front end, seems to be some knocking in the front end when I turn - I can feel it through the steering column? I'm taking it in next week to have it checked out
-gas mileage isn't what I expected, a little much but bearable...
Overall, I still enjoy driving it. I just can't wait for the nice weather(possibly soon???) to get it out and wash and wax and take for a cruise...
I also bought a couple of those newfangled child seats with the L.A.T.C.H. (or Isofix) system. They use hooks that attach to the metal loops down inside the crevice between the cushion and seat back. (That's what those little white plastic buttons on the seat are: to tell you where the loops are.) With this system, you don't use the seat belts to attach the child seats to the car, and the seats are held in much more securely.
My problem is that we're expecting a third kid in a few months. I test fit the GT before I bought it to make sure that three child seats will fit, but there are only Isofix loops for two. To get the two seats on the outside to slide far enough outwards to squeeze the third seat into the middle, I can't use the loops. I guess I'll have to use the seat belts to hold them all in. Of course, it could be twins. Hello minivan!