Hyundai Elantra 5-door

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Comments

  • gtovritgtovrit Member Posts: 53
    Could you clarify your wiring? I just cut the plug to the original horn and used those wires with new connectors to the air horn pump. Did you hook the new relay into those wires, then to the air pump? If I understand that, then the original relay would be first in line from the original horn button, then the new relay would be running off of that. Or did you add a new horn button, too? I didn't run any extra ground wire or positive wire, the pump is grounded through its metal mounting, the positive comes off the original wiring.
  • gt_fangt_fan Member Posts: 159
    Gtovrit,

    You're correct, the original relay is first in line from the horn button. The wire that used to be connected to the horn is now connected to another wire that runs to the new relay. So now I've got a relay running a relay. This terminal on the new relay doesn't draw much current, so I just used a 16 gauge wire. I used 10 or 12 gauge wire everywhere else.

    I used the supplied screw to attach the new relay to the plastic divider wall that isolates the battery from the rest of the engine compartment. It's a convenient spot and it's well protected from the elements if you install it on the battery side of the wall.

    It's just a few inches from the positive terminal of the battery to the 12 volt input on the new relay. I used a 20 amp in-line fuse here. I then ran a wire from the output of the relay to one terminal of the air horn pump, and a wire from the other terminal of the pump back to the negative terminal of the battery. This was probably overkill, but I sometimes have trouble getting a good body ground.

    I thought about adding a rocker switch in the dash that would allow me to switch back and forth between the stock and air horns, still using the horn button. That way I could beep the stock horn for attention at the carwash without scaring the bejesus out of the crew with the megablasters. That would have required running the original wire that connected to the stock horn back to the dashboard. Then I'd have had to run two wires back to the engine compartment, one to the original horn, and the other to the new air horn relay. I got lazy though, so I'm airhorns only for now. (Apologies to the carwash guys. :-) )
  • gtovritgtovrit Member Posts: 53
    gt fan,
    Thanks, now it makes sense. You're right about the fuse replacement, I'm asking for trouble there. I think I'll take the time to do it right, no matter how much that goes against my natural instincts. Thanks again to all concerned.
  • wgrwgr Member Posts: 127
    Why are you replacing the horn ?
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    Probably because the standard horn doesn't sound very convincing. Mine will likely be replaced in the spring.
  • gtovritgtovrit Member Posts: 53
    This is the smallest car I have owned in a long time, and the first new one ever. To my ears, the original horn was not so much a warning as a plea for mercy, as in "Please don't squash me, Mr. SUV". At least with the air horns, which aren't really as blasting as their name might imply, I have a chance of getting the attention of some cellphone using, lane changing, monster assault vehicle before it flattens me. That's all, nothing wrong with the function of the original, just the volume.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    it's a good thing the Elantra's horn don't sound when you lock the doors with the remote!
  • gtovritgtovrit Member Posts: 53
    Simply put, the horn blows. Sorry, I couldn't leave it alone.
  • clayman1clayman1 Member Posts: 41
    With the prospect of more snow this weekend I have a low gear question.
    I know that in the Autoimatic's the '3' gear is for slowing going downhill.
    The 2 gear is for going in snow/slippery roads.
    The question:
    If I start out in '2' gear can I put the transmission in 'D' gear once I'm moving pretty well, on the move??? Like shifting with a stickshift?
  • gpagpagpagpa Member Posts: 55
    Just noticed that when I start the car and put it in gear, I can hear some sort of hissing sound when I step on the accelerator, 1st, 2nd etc. It goes away when the car warms up, but it started after I got my first oil change. Is it just a coincidence or is anyone else experiencing this? Its been no colder that a few weeks ago.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Unless this automatic is somehow different than others, putting the selector in "2" will not start the car in 2nd gear. It simply limits the upshifting to 2nd gear, meaning the car will still start off in 1st gear, than shift and stay in 2nd until you put the selector in "3" or "D". The "2" position is simply there to help lower speed when descending, not to start off in 2nd gear in slippery conditions. But to answer your question, yes, you can shift into "3" or "D" while driving along. It will not hurt anything. You will just be giving the tranny computer permission to go ahead and upshift.
  • clayman1000clayman1000 Member Posts: 69
    Thanks for the clarification.

    Clayman1
  • jimpimmsjimpimms Member Posts: 81
    Almost all automatic transmissions work the way Intonge18 describes, although, according to the '02 Sonata's Owner's Manual, the Shiftronic tranny allows starting in 2nd gear in manual mode. Shiftronic is also available on the current Tiburon, Santa Fe, and XG. Hopefully, Hyundai will offer it on upcoming Elantras, too.
  • lovetosavegaslovetosavegas Member Posts: 73
    Skimmed through 'Car and driver' mid-size family sedans comparo - seems that they didn't like the Sonata too much. It finished 8 out of 10 and considering that #9 was Kia's cousin with the 4-banger, I would say that Hyundai mid-size entry has a lot of room for improvement. The last was Saturn LS because of 'ugly nose'. Hehehe. The same editors ranked Elantra second out of 10. Sounds to me that Elantra is a better choice then Sonata, unless you are 6'2"+. Also anybody has any respectable links, where hatchback GT was competing against likes of Protege5 and Matrix?
    For some reason I never stumbled upon it.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Remember the Elantra is considerably larger in cubic feet terms than luxury cars of the early 90's like the Acura Legend. It's larger than some of the "mid-sizers" like the Grand Am. Cars like the Focus and Elantra are tall, making head room not much of a problem. About the only short coming is trunk space which does tend to be smaller.
  • jim7heaven7jim7heaven7 Member Posts: 25
    I have a 2002 Elantra GT with manual, and I have had no problems with it so far, love this car. I have only 6000 miles on it and it is mostly city miles that I drive, 'it helps living 1 mile from work'. The only three issues I have had with the car, I consider two minor and the third major.

    1.CD player stuck once, but it was extremely cold and after the car warmed up the cd came out, no problems since.
    2. Wipers, replaced them with Bosch. Crummy standard wiper blades.
    3. Paint chipping, have had two paint chips on the back rear bumper where its plastic. Need better paint adhesion on plastic parts.

    Other than these three minor gripes, the care has been mechanically sound and tight as a drum.

    My wifes car has experienced the oil pan thread issue and has had two burned out headlights in the year she has had the car. 2001 Elantra GLS auto with 30,000 miles, all replaced under warranty for free. The oil pan threads being stripped was caused by the tech and the two light replacements where 5,000 miles apart from each other, other than that car is running great.

    We love are Elantras, the best bang for the buck out there.

    P.S. I plan on doing some mods on my car once the weather gets better.
  • dustbaildustbail Member Posts: 34
    Has anyone purchase and/or installed this style of spoiler?
    http://hdkautosport.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/spoiler-elantragt5-oemB.jpg
    Question if you have: How is the quality and is it easy to install?
    It looks pretty similar to the one that is available for the GLS.
  • gt_fangt_fan Member Posts: 159
    That looks a lot like the spoiler that's been stock on the British-spec 5-door. I wonder where HDK's sourcing it?

    BTW, I had to add "www" to make the link work.
  • jimpimmsjimpimms Member Posts: 81
    Car&Driver is an enthusiast's magazine. It's not like they panned the car; they merely don't care for the Sonata's performance characteristics. They concluded their critique with, "Nonetheless, for normal family use, the Sonata is a lavishly equipped car for a low price. The moral? Spend less, go easy." The better-handling and peppier Elantra is more to their tastes.

    I'll be looking for a new car four years down the road, and the Sonata is on the list, but Hyundai's going to have to expand the model line with a GT liftback, sport suspension, and competitive power (i.e., 3.0L. or 3.5L. with at least 220 hp) for me to go back to the trough.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Typical C/D. Heavy emphasis on handling. That's why they ranked the Protege by one point over the Elantra GLS. Any car that handles like a Buick, like the Sonata does, doesn't stand a chance in a C/D comparo. I would love to see C/D do a comparo of either hatchbacks or sedans and include the Elantra GT, and see how it fares with its sportier suspension.
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    to let you know about this new discussion on the Wagon's board Hyundai wagon coming.... Thought some of you may find it interesting. Thanks for your participation.

    And now, back to the subject of the Hyundai Elantra GT! ;-)
     
    Revka
    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
  • dustbaildustbail Member Posts: 34
    Maybe this one will work:
    http://hdkautosport.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Sto- re_Code=HA&Product_Code=HEGTK&Category_Code=HSPO
  • gtovritgtovrit Member Posts: 53
    I just got a flyer from my dealer recommending I bring in my car for a 9000 mile checkup. The owner's manual doesn't mention anything of the kind. Smells like a revenue enhancement program to me. Anyone else get a notice like this?
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    That's why I tend to stay away from dealers. Service should be controlled and by the book. Fighting with the dealer about unnecessary services isn't a hobby I care to engage in.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I got a letter today from my dealer telling me that my last service was at 15,200 miles so it was almost time for the "18,000 mile service." There is no such thing as an 18,000 mile service on the Elantra. LOL! Its next service under the severe schedule isn't until 18,750 miles, which is just an oil change. I also got a letter from another dealer that I visited once, and they reminded me of the upcoming 18,750 service. Hmmm. Maybe I should take my car there for service from now on--at least they read the service schedule!
  • gpagpagpagpa Member Posts: 55
    Ok, seems like the dealerships have a different schedule than Hyundai. So what is everone doing? What about the oil changes, going with the 3000 miles, I think the book says 7000 miles. Outside of oil changes, are you going with the Hyundai recommended service, i.e. tire rotation etc. If anyone can post their service schedule it will help alot.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    I've had Wal-Mart doing the basic $11.84 SuperTech oil change specifying that a ST filter be substituted for the Fram. I do this on a 4000 mile basis. I have my tires rotated every 8K. Again, I paid Wallyworld $7 (and change) per tire for lifetime rotation and balancing.

    I will probably have an independent garage do the 30K service. I doubt if I will have the plugs changed at 30 since everything is going good. I will change the coolant-- full inspections, etc. Since I'm lazy I'll probably have them change the oil and filter, even though I'd much prefer SuperTech bottled to what ever they're using in bulk (probably Valvoline). I did ask about the filter and the guy came up with some auto parts distributor that I've never heard of. Since Champion Labs makes a lot of private brands, I'm hoping it's a Champion rather than a Fram-- but even a Fram probably won't hurt things too much if I only do it once.

    I swapped out the oil filter a couple of weeks ago with a Purolator. Doesn't look quite as good as the original but it's OK. Other than three blown H7 bulbs and a pre-emptive swap out of the H1's when I had the battery out of the car to get at the lamps, nothing has gone wrong in 32K. Truly a low maintenance car.

    This is a GLS with 5-speed by the way.
  • mpgmanmpgman Member Posts: 723
    Getting ready to do this on my GT. Can anyone tell me what you must do?...I don't have access to the manual now. The local dealer wants over $400.00 for his version of the servicing. Sounds outrageous. The car runs great.
  • gt_fangt_fan Member Posts: 159
    Hi Mpgman,

    Sounds like your road warrior commute must have eased a bit. At the rate you were going I would have expected 40K miles by now. :-)

    Edmunds has a complete maintenance schedule for most cars, including the Elantra. Scroll up from here to "Ownership", then click "Maintenance Guide". According to Edmunds, you should expect to pay about $300. I think it's about universal for dealers to try to get you to buy a lot of extras that the manual doesn't call for.

    Good luck!
  • gpagpagpagpa Member Posts: 55
    Is everyone in the northeast with the snow and salt and cold weather washing their car? How often should it be done? Should I wax now?
  • mpgmanmpgman Member Posts: 723
    Got transferred from DC to NYC so the 35,000 mile a year commute came to an abrupt end. Now the car sits in a garage all week while I use public transit. I'm considering the GT sedan for the other half as the 1987 Omni is about ready for the big car lot in the sky. Just wish they would use white faced gauges or some other background color on the GT dash that didn't disappear in the sunlight. Is Hyundai dealing on the GT sedans the same way as the GLSs or are they holding out for top dollar given the inventory?
  • kiltedfoolkiltedfool Member Posts: 18
    In the Philly area for a Dark Red 2003 manual GT 5 door with moonroof and ABS, my quoted handshaked price is 14,331 out the door without my downpayment and trade in. Tax and tags were 940, so call it 13,375

    Didn't take my trade in along because we weren't really expecting to proceed along lines of a purchase today. Will clean it up tomorrow, check out financing between my bank and Hyundai, drop off the forms, and probably pick up the car on Thursday when my salesman will be back, he's off tomorrow.

    How'd I do?

    KF
  • gt_fangt_fan Member Posts: 159
    ...That beats my deal by about $2,000. This time last year the GT was in such short supply that the dealers could command msrp in most markets.
  • mxo11mxo11 Member Posts: 27
    gpagpa,

    I've washed my car a couple of times since the snow/salt mix started; I even waxed it for the first time since I bought it a year ago and I definitely think the wax helped a lot (a simple wash and the car looks great again). My feeling is that when the weather is so bad and the car has so much salt on it, more frequent visits to the car wash may become mandatory.

    Kiltedfool, it appears your soon-to-be new car has the full package; therefore, the deal you're getting is excellent (My GT also has option 11 but I paid almost $15,000 plus tax! Of course, that was more than a year ago, when -as gt fan says-, these cars were in relatively short supply). How does it compare to Edmunds' TMV?
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    A friend of mine suggested power rinsing at the coin wash during winter months. At first I disagreed but thought I'd try it this year. My last wax job was just before weather turned cold, so the dirt rinses away nicely without soap. Salt does too, but starts to cling after a few weeks of nasty weather. This is when I use some soap then plenty of rinsing. The wax job holds up pretty well when you minimize soap.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I take my cars to the wash regularly in the winter, whenever they get a coating of road salt. I use the all-cloth full-service washes vs. the self-service spray washes because the cloth washes are gentle to the finish (don't leave the fine scratches that some washes do) and they get all the dirt and salt off, whereas the self-service washes don't get all the dirt/salt off unless you use the foam brush, which is very hard on paint I've found, leaves fine scratches. I've had cars 7-8 years and they still had a nearly-new finish when I sold them. I wax 3-4 times a year, and as far into the fall as I can. It was so warm in Minnesota earlier this winter that I got a wax job in in December, very unusual. That should last 'er until March.
  • rwr1708rwr1708 Member Posts: 34
    Hi everyone.

    I have a manual GT with ABS and the traction control system. Over the past few weeks, my GT's seen a bit of snow, typically 1-3" per snowfall. I have found that the TCS will only kick in when I gun it and purposefully try to spin the wheels. However, when I am light on the gas , it has not once kicked in, even while the wheels are noticeably spinning. Does anyone else's do this? Is this normal?
  • lovetosavegaslovetosavegas Member Posts: 73
    Does anyone know if there is a way of turning on fog lights without turning on head lights on Elantra GT?
  • dj_45dj_45 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, i just bought a 2003 Elantra Gt. 5 speed, carbon blue. Option pkg-7 =( TCS,ABS and moonroof with wind guard ),also mud guards. I wanted Chianti Red but there was none in stock, they told me the would locate one for me in a nearby state, I,m in Pa. north of Pittsburgh. They gave me a price of 14,678 for the car i wanted, with all the options i wanted, then they said if i took one they had on stock, only the carbon blue or black they would go 14,378 i thought about it a while," i really did want the red," then they said how about 14,178 for one in stock. Well a 500 dollar savings was worth the color change, lol so i took a carbon blue car. So in all 14,178 plus the tax 6%, plate, title fee's, trans fee, TOTAL out the door 15,226.68 Not to bad i think for a fully loaded GT. I pick it up tomorrow (Monday), Hope it turns out to be a good dependable car. Oh by the way the best price i could find before this was 14,772, so i,m happy with this deal, comments welcome. thank you !
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    Carbon Blue is a very good choice; looks great on the GT. Happy motoring -- my GLS is doing quite well at nearly 25K miles. I really enjoy this car.
  • gpagpagpagpa Member Posts: 55
    Yes, I too have experienced the same thing. While driving out my driveway I experience the TCS light blinking when I press the gas while snow covered. Don't know exactly what it does, but ABS works properly, when I slam on the brakes in the driveway I feel the pedal vibrate. I thought TCS would prevent the wheels from spinning, but I guess if you press the gas hard, it would be tought to accomplish that. Anyone else know exactly what it does and how it will help in slippery driving?
  • jimpimmsjimpimms Member Posts: 81
    It may be that TCS is engine-speed or throttle position sensitive. Contrary to popular belief, it's NOT a winter traction feature, it's a stability control feature. It works in conjunction with your ABS to prevent you from *losing* traction, like when you've entered a curve too fast and start to get wheel slippage. For starting in wet heavy snow, or on ice, I use 2nd gear and I turn TCS off until I get underway.

    In other words, it can only help you regain traction you already have, but it won't help you gain traction you don't already have.
  • wmoseswmoses Member Posts: 212
    Excellent explanation on the TCS.

    I have only had it kick in once on wet roads here after my wheels started to spin during a spirited launch. Other times, I'd get pretty much a whole revolution of the wheels before I got traction -- without the TCS kicking in.

    This is actually preferable when doing acceleration timing. You want to get the car into the maximum torque range quickly and this involves some wheelspin. Maybe the TCS is tuned to allow for some wheelspin in keeping with its GT moniker.
  • michael_lee76michael_lee76 Member Posts: 45
    I have been having this noise from my Elantra GT 2002 Hatchback. It was making noise when i hit a small bump. The service center has been adjusting it over 6 times but it still does make noise!

    My GT has only 9000 miles and according to it's warranty, it's under the new car warranty. and my dealer told me that they cannot adjust it anymore!!!

    can i claim for that lemon car law?

    does anyone have that problem?
  • mxo11mxo11 Member Posts: 27
    Hi all,

    I know that gas mileage depends heavily on air conditioning system usage. However, I noticed during my last trip to PA that gas mileage had dropped from about 31 miles/gl (which is what I usually get on the highway) to less than 23 miles/gl (I calculated this myself, not through the car computer). This time, heating was on during the whole trip, sometimes at maximum. The question is: does heating use gas too???
  • likofloathelikofloathe Member Posts: 7
    I am picking up my new Elantra GT sedan(black) tomorrow. I was wondering what kind of gas mileage I can expect to get? I purchased the car to be a commuter as I have a 90 mile roundtrip commute. Any problems I should expect or thoughts on how to maintain this car to make it last a long long time.

    Thanks
  • gt_fangt_fan Member Posts: 159
    I find that with my GT, gas mileage depends heavily on where and how I drive. If you're using the air conditioning, expect to lose a couple of mpg around town. At highway speeds, running the air conditioning can actually be more efficient than driving with the windows open, due to the open window's aerodynamic drag. The heater shouldn't affect gas mileage at all since it's just using a small fan to circulate some of the engines waste heat.

    During the summer, if I'm running the air and trying to hustle through city traffic, I see mileage in the lower twenties. On the other hand, I did a highway trip yesterday at a steady 65mph -- with no air conditioning -- and saw mileage in the lower forties.

    My average for the car's 22,000 miles is 32.4 mpg, (I'm anal enough about it to actually keep a spreadsheet!) but then I usually drive using techniques specifically designed for good gas mileage. Most people would die from boredom driving like I do. The GT owners I've heard from on the issue mostly report mileage in the upper twenties.
  • gpagpagpagpa Member Posts: 55
    If I don't plan on driving the car for a week or so, should I just start the car and let it run for a few minutes to charge the battery, or do I need to drive the car. How long can the battery stay charged when not driven?
  • edovidedovid Member Posts: 22
    In no particular order, here's how I see it:
    1) A car will sit for a week with no attention at all just fine. Months would be a different matter.

    2) Just follow the owner's manual schedule (not necessarily the dealer's, he'll add a lot).

    3) Where and when does it make what noise? There
    may be some advice around here if you can be specific. Lemon laws usually don't apply to noise.

    4) Gas mileage may drop in the winter in areas where fuel is reformulated for cold weather, or where the car is driven cold more than in summer.
  • zigliflerziglifler Member Posts: 99
    also remember the ac is ON by default . so even when you have heat on the compressor is on taking moisture out of the air . That might be why you saw lower mileage . also like the last post gas changes in alot of area's from summer to winter that can also do it . But my guess is that you didn't turn the ac button off .
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