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2008 T&C stalling without reason

135

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    hotmama3hotmama3 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a Chrysler T&C as well. I bought it used from a dealer and on the way home it started stalling. It was in there shop for about 2 wks before they finally sent it to a Chrysler Dealer. They said it was the key. The cut a new one and magically the problem was gone. 2.5 mo later after we had moved out of state the car started deiseling and now black smoke is spewing out the tail pipe. It is in the shop as we speak and they said it is either the main computer or the wiring. After reading your posting I don't know what to do. I can't afford to fix the darn thing but I can't sell it either. The dealer should be responcible for fixing it because the problems started within minutes after I drove it off the lot. Whether they will or not is another story. Thanks for your posting it was helpful.
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    mjparisimjparisi Member Posts: 5
    I am sorry about your problem. I haven't found a resolution for mine yet...as a matter of fact mine took me 35 minutes in the parking lot after church to get it started today. It almost stranded me today. I believe that the problem lies somewhere in the electronics, more specifically the alarm system relays and the sort. The wiring harness could also be defective. I am just afraid a new one would only result in the same problems being that they haven't addressed it on a recall level.

    Best of Luck :cry:
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    mohammad1mohammad1 Member Posts: 1
    i have town country 1999 limited edition problem starting when shifting meter on dash board goes off car dosnot start after wating 3 hours the dash goes on and the car starts , i changer cluster, sent to dealer change computer , after changing cluster the car works good for 1 year but problem came back again if any one know
    what is going on please send me email at

    atiyat_4@hotmail.com
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    rocco7rocco7 Member Posts: 3
    i also have the same problem and the dealers tell you to trade it in why would i trade something in that they will give you nothing for the goverment should make them buy all these cars with the same problem there seems that no mechanic on this planet can tell you would it is try this try that i always bought american cars my brother is a mechanic would not own a american car if chryler went out of bussiness it would not bother me in the least i have a car that was well taken care for if you saw it it is like new but a useless piece of machinery that lets you down every time you need it i asked every mechanic i know and no one can give you a straight answer anyone can replace a part but can they diagnos the problem not yet if anyone has fix there problem would you let me know thank you Jimmy.
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    rocco7rocco7 Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever find the problem i have 1998 t&c lxi 3.8. eng same night mare leaves you stuck when ever ley me know if any one on this planet can fix it a nice van with a horrible problem it should have been recalled they would of went out of bussiness but they should i guess they give the politicians big donations that is how they get away with it imagine a small bussiness try something like that every agency would be there to shut them down maybee even arrest the owner of the bussiness let me tell i dont want to sell to anybody because i still maybee someday someone will come up with a fix.
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    marty29marty29 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Chrysler T&C that will stall at stops and will run rough when driving at hiway speeds and the tach will jump 200 to 500 rpms at times it has been to the dealer twice for this problem and all they do is charge me for a rental and never come up with a fix because there is no code.
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    mjparisimjparisi Member Posts: 5
    Welcome to the club. my 1999 T&C Limited is sitting in my driveway as we speak inoperable. I am still trying new things but I am 5+ years investigating. Believe me, if I find the absolute solution, I would post it in a minute. I believe a class action lawsuit is the only fix. We should be able to organize this in todays day and age. Let me know if you are interested.
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    aka_ojayaka_ojay Member Posts: 6
    Hi eveyone,

    I have been reading all your posts. thanks for all the info. My Town and Cournty 1999 has been great up until recently.

    These are the problems I have:
    - When van is parked on an incline facing forward, the instrument panel (including gear shift) do not light up. Van does not start. After an hour of tries it will start.

    - While driving the instrument panel will shut of, car is still operating, gas, brakes etc. then soon after the panel turns on.

    - When parked regularly no incline, put key in to start, turn key all systems good, instrument panel lights up and you hear the electrical system kick in, yet does not turn over, like the stareter has been disabled. You hear only a click. After trying many times like 15 mins it now turns over. Weather conditions cold and raining Van outside all night.

    - same as above, jus drove the van, parked it then tried tostart after 30 mins does the same as above , but starts after 2 tries. Van now parked indoors.

    - Also while driving when going over 80 kms the gears seem to miss? Had a problem like this before when driving it would not switch gears. My mechanic replaced the Transmission sensor. no it is acting upo again

    Question, I read in a forum a month ago about re-soldering the joints around the motherboard? behind the instrument panel.

    Does anyone recall this? It was said that this may be the root of my problems. More info on this would be great
    Thanks
    OJ
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    aka_ojayaka_ojay Member Posts: 6
    I would be interested. let me know the details
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    aka_ojayaka_ojay Member Posts: 6
    One more thing...

    I noticed that the passenger front blinker (front right) does not always turn on. somedays it would work as normal you hear a regular noarmal pace ticking sound, then somedays it won't turn on and you hear the fast pace ticking sound that is normally associated with a burnt out light. Yet I just changed the bulb.

    Would re-soldering the joints in the circuit board solve all my problems???

    OJ
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    aka_ojayaka_ojay Member Posts: 6
    Now today....

    Last night parked the van in the garage so no moisture...Van started right away. On the way to work today the Door locks acted up. While driving the "Door Open" light flickered on and off along with the door locks....

    So now all of a sudden the van is possesed
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,864
    Haha, that it is!

    Part of the problem you are describing (instrument panel going out) sounds like it is the broken solder issue. But, I am not sure that the solder problem causes no-start situations or other electrical oddities, like the blinker and door locks. At least, no such problems with my van, which clearly does have a solder issue.

    I think it may be a combination of the solder problem and a problem with the Body Control Module (BCM). Neither of those things should wreak havoc on your transmission's ability to shift....
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    aka_ojayaka_ojay Member Posts: 6
    Thanks xwesx!

    Did you or someone else post any info on the BCM or solder issue? If you did can you send me the link to it so I can read it again? Where is the BCM located?

    Thanks OJ
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,864
    OJ - there have been several posts on the solder issue; BCM has also been discussed once or twice since I have watched the discussions. I purchased a '98 DGC in May of 2007, and have watched the boards sporadically since then, so try searching messages within that time frame.

    As I stated above, I have yet to address my cracked solder problem. It occurred rarely and for brief times until this September, when it went out for about two weeks before finally working again. Unfortunately, I was just too busy with other things then to deal with it. It tends to behave during the winter months, but once things warm up, it will likely become more temperamental.

    I *think* the BCM is located on the firewall in the driver's footwell area. It is a black box with one large wiring harness connected to it.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    nukbuknukbuk Member Posts: 2
    I've been through the same issues with my 98T&C. Here is the link to the soldering slide show that fixed my problem http://photoshow.comcast.net/watch/uQ6gE3nV. Before I used this fix I had my cluster panel replaced at the dealership, but a week after they replaced it the car began to stall whenever I made a sharp right turn. Because I had them give me the old part, I was able to perform this fix myself.

    I hope this works and if so, pass it on to other fourms.

    Nukbuk
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,864
    Nukbuk - that show is fantastic! Thanks for sharing.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Though I hope I never have to pull the instrument cluster, your video should make it easier. Good job.
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    mismailimismaili Member Posts: 16
    Hey Nukbuk, that was an excellent recap, well documented video on the starting resolution. I solved my starting problem with a new circuit board. Now, I wished I had seen this video before buying the new board. Anyway, my issue has been resolved and hope everyone else out there can learn from this as well.
    regards,

    Miz
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    ecurvemanecurveman Member Posts: 1
    do a vaccum test
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    sutphindgsutphindg Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2007 T&C. Twice in the past week it has stalled without warning while I was driving, both times putting me at risk of serious danger. The dealer can't find anything. I read a blog regarding an earlier model suggesting the keys were too heavy, causing the car to turn off slightly, but I don't have any new keys on my ring. Anyone else have this problem or any thoughts?
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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I have a 2007 Grand Caravan, and have never experienced your problem.

    When it cuts out, do all the warning lights on the dash come on , meaning the engine had really died?
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    roeteenaroeteena Member Posts: 4
    I am more than ready for a lawsuit,just keep me informed.
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    sutphindgsutphindg Member Posts: 2
    No lights come on. The dash is blank and the car is off. I coast to the side of the road, turn the key to the off position then turn it back on and it starts.
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    joepeterson56joepeterson56 Member Posts: 95
    Dashboard circut board, or possibly bad ground or short in ignition?
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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Something in the dash as joepeterson56 said. If it was just the engine cutting out, all the indicators on the dash would light up, I think.

    Does anything else in the passenger compartment shut down/turn off when this happens? How 'bout the radio? Fan? Do your headlights remain on or do they go off also?
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    aka_ojayaka_ojay Member Posts: 6
    On my Van 1999 T & C, the right side signal light does not light up.
    Sometime it does and sometime it does not.

    The bulb is god just has issues
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    martyimartyi Member Posts: 1
    Nukbik:
    Any chance of getting a copy of the video you mention. I tried the link but looks like Comcast doesn't support it anymore. Thanks.
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,864
    I just noticed that on Friday. I hope the video is available somewhere, because it was excellent. Figures it would be gone only days before I was going to pull apart my van to extract the panel. I'm sure I can figure it out without the step-by-step, but it sure is nice to save that extra trouble....
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    iowayneiowayne Member Posts: 1
    Mine is a '98 t and c lxi
    For those that keep asking what works, I believe this does. I myself bought another instrument cluster for around $100. I installed it today after seeing this post. I figured if I replied to the post it would make it easier for the people reading here at the end. If you can't make out the link, here it is.

    http://ingriddijkers.com/CaravanPics.html

    if I have any more of the same problem I will post. If I don't, then everything worked great.

    I also have an alternator problem that I just found out about too, so I'll be fixing that too.
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    mismailimismaili Member Posts: 16
    I hope you have the same resolution as I have had. Since I replaced my instrument cluster I have not had any startiing issues. Not Once. My starting issue has be resolved.

    Good luck to all
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    mark3694mark3694 Member Posts: 3
    nukbuk where can i see your video comcast does not support anymore. I have been dealing with this problem for years now on my 2002 t&c and have ended up where i should have started on the internet. Thanks mark
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    mark3694mark3694 Member Posts: 3
    Add me to the list of class action. I have been dealing for years with this problem obviously dealerships do not use computers b/c it didn't take much searching to find that this has been an ongoing problem for years! Yet they are still clueless
    Mark
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    nukbuknukbuk Member Posts: 2
    Mark, here is the link to the pictures. I'm notthe original poster of the slide show, which has since been removed from the website. I was able to fix my van, but now I'm having other sensor problems that cause the car to stall out. http://ingriddijkers.com/CaravanPics
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    mark3694mark3694 Member Posts: 3
    thanks
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    alpineptalpinept Member Posts: 4
    Don't know if you are still interested in this but i would love to be included. I am tired of not knowing if my van is going to leave me stranded somewhere or not. The van is my primary vehicle, and i am afraid to take it out of town in fear that i might get stranded somewhere!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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    tgarlandtgarland Member Posts: 1
    Roy,

    Did you ever find out the problem. I started having this problem yesterday, I was coming up to a stop sign and my 99 Chrysler mini van stalled. I put it in neutral and restarted. It seems to happen with around town driving.
    Thanks,
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    mckay2mckay2 Member Posts: 1
    Hi there! Still working ok? This has caused me a great deal of stress (nothing like being stranded in the middle of nowhere with your wife and 3 kids under 6, 75 miles from home)

    I am hoping to get my car home tomorrow and will be looking at replacing the instrument panel.
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    roymarkoroymarko Member Posts: 3
    My good news is, it has not done this in a long time.

    The bad news, I never did discover what was causing the problem...sorry...
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    kablokablo Member Posts: 2
    I have an 05 T&C eng. light came on the code was #2 scondary circute ignition coil is bad, I changed the coil/wires/plugs when started noticed #3 and 5 are crossed wire. I corrected the prob. then started the van still same code (code was cleared) was detected. shut off the eng. the check the wires /plugs /coil. everything was OK. started the eng. Battery light came on, dicounnected the Neg. wire from Battery, eng ran ok , so I thought Alt. is good. tyrned the eng. off , connected the neg. wire . tried to start nothing ahappened( no starter and no fire on plugs), after 3 atempt eng started and I checked the wures from alternator , I had to shut off and on 3-4 times. after ther 4th time starter did not work and no fire on plugs, too it 2 local mechanic , I was told ECM is bad , they changed it, it did not work, I too the van to Ansira chrysler dealer and I was told Skim madual which dealer said code reads the code on the key's chip (gray color keis), My van hs Blak key and has no chip in it.Iwas charged $365.00 for it and still no start then I was told I have to change the ECM (anothe $1100.00) and no garranty if it works( It was garrantied when they change the skim madual the van will work fin). Now my van is in drive way B/C I didnot want to pay more to dealer ,then hear that it is not starting and more more $ for dealer. Any clue to fix the van will be appriciated.
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    screwedbygmscrewedbygm Member Posts: 14
    Hi all,
    This may sound like a simple-minded request but the dashboard trim is all plastic and probably becoming extra brittle with age. I need to remove the trim around the instument cluster so as to remove it for the solder repair or replacement so widely discussed in this forum. Since I cannot see any screws, it probably just pries off but I've tried gently in several places with nothing yielding. Can someone please help out by explaining exactly how to pop this trim off without breaking it. Perhaps other members are similarly frustrated also.
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,864
    A member posted the process in the "Instrument Cluster" thread. I think I kept a copy of it (I am looking now), but it involves more than just the trim around the cluster. You have to start on the bottom of the dash paneling (below the steering wheel) and work your way up. Indeed, 90% of the work is just removing all of the trim!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,864
    Well, darn.... I cannot find it. I downloaded a copy of the process information that the member posted, but I cannot remember his handle nor the thread in which it was posted. I did not find it in the Instrument Panel (rather than Cluster) thread.

    Looking at his photos, though, all of the trim on the driver side of the dash is removed: Under the steering wheel, over it, and the bezel around the instrument cluster that includes the driver side and center air vents.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    rcurran1015rcurran1015 Member Posts: 1
    My Chrysler Town and Country is acting funny when I try to start it. It acts like it doesn't want to start but it does. This just started happening recently and I was wondering what the problem would be.
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,864
    More information, such as year, engine, etc., is always helpful....
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    crisismpcrisismp Member Posts: 3
    Hi Guys,
    I Have a 2005 Town and country v6 3.3 engine and just lately my car start to sputter/bounce around when i hit the gas. It would even let me get up to 30mph. So I changed the spark plugs. while i was changing the spark plugs I noticed that the one in front was burnt and smelled like gas then the last one in the back was also burnt and smelled like gas these 2 where the worst out of all for.So then i took it out for a drive and it was okay 1 day later (today) I went to take it out it was doing the same thing i checked all the spark plugs and the same 2 were burnt and smelled like gas so i bought 2 more new plugs and cabels it didnt fix the problem in fact the 2 news i just put in are burnt already. Does anyone know what i have to do to fix his our are my cylinders going bad on those 2
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,864
    I am not sure if you stated this already, but did you replace the plug wires? If not, I recommend doing so. If you have replaced them, the problem is likely in the ignition module. It sounds like poor spark. You should be able to check resistance on both of those items (plug wires and ignition module) with a multimeter.

    I know what a pain in the neck it is to replace plugs on the 3.3/3.8 V6, so you certainly don't want to have to do it more than necessary!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    crisismpcrisismp Member Posts: 3
    yeah i changed the plug wires i just want to make sure how would i connect the multimeter to test
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,864
    I have not done it myself, but here are the instructions in my Haynes manual. Actually, reading it, it sounds like the ignition coil (not module, as I had said) is likely the culprit because two cylinders (one on each side of the engine) are paired on each coil. As such, you may have one bad coil in the ignition coil. Here goes:

    On the 3.3L V6 and the 3.8L V6 engines, coil one fires cylinders 1 and 4, coil two fires cylinders 2 and 5, and coil three fires cylinders 3 and 6. Each coil tower is labeled with the number of the corresponding cylinder.

    1. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
    2. Clearly label the spark plug wires, then detach them from the coil pack.
    3. Disconnect the electrical connector from the coil pack.
    4. Measure the resistance on the primary side of each coil with a digital ohmmeter. At the coil, connect an ohmmeter between the B+ pin and the pin corresponding to the particular cylinder. Compare your readings with the resistance values listed in this chapter's specifications. Replace the coil if resistance is not within specifications.
    5. Measure the secondary resistance of the coil between the paired high tension towers of each group of cylinders. Compare your readings with the resistance values listed in this chapter's specifications. Replace the coil if resistance is not within specifications.

    And, that's it. Here is some supplemental info and the resistance specification:

    First, the primary resistance is checked by bridging the pins in the electrical connector. Looking at the ignition coil with the connector oriented toward the bottom, the pins are as follows, left to right:

    1. Ignition coil cylinders 3 and 6
    2. Ignition coil cylinders 1 and 4
    3. B+
    4. Ignition coil cylinders 2 and 5

    The location of the cylinders' pins also correspond to the tower location on the pack. With the same orientation, the location of each tower is thus:

    315
    642

    Ignition coil resistance specifications:
    Primary resistance: 0.45 to 0.65 ohms @ 70 to 80 degrees F
    Secondary resistance: 7,000 to 15,800 ohms @ 70 to 80 degrees F
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    crisismpcrisismp Member Posts: 3
    thanks for the info i ended up changing the ignition coil and it still burned up the spark plugs then i took it to auto zone and they pluged into the ecu to check my check engine and found that my egr and my 6 fuel injector was bad so i changed them both and got another fuel injector since the othe plug was burning still nothing my car is like a roller coaster bouncing all over the place and now some times stalling any other ideas
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    silky2003silky2003 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 town & country.
    I replaced the starter, cam and crank sensor, fuel pump and both Pcm's and it still will not start, and also replaced the coil pack.
    Any other suggestions.
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