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2008 T&C stalling without reason

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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,881
    What does it do?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I'm with xwesx. Tell us what it does do.

    Does it crank? Does it try to run and then just dies? Do you have spark at any/all of the plugs? Do you have fuel flow into the fuel injectors (that is, is the fuel pump working)? Was it running fine one day, then just suddenly decided not to start the next?

    Tell us a bit more about the vehicle? How many miles? What engine? Any previous history of a problem like this?
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    silky2003silky2003 Member Posts: 2
    My Van Has 197,000 miles on it. It has a 3.3 V6 Engine. The engine cranks but will not start. It is not getting any spark. Like I said I change the coil pack, crank and cam sensors, Fuel Pump. The engine is getting fuel. I replaced Both PCM's but I replace them with used ones from the junk yard. Before I replaced both pcm's the van only had a problem with the starter.
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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    OK - thanks for the additional information.

    Unfortunately, I can't tell you where to go from here. I assume the PCM (ECU) is getting +12V?

    I had the 3.3L in our '94 DC, but never had any problems with the ignition, so never had to replace or troubleshoot the parts you've already replaced.
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    h2o1h2o1 Member Posts: 1
    i have 2001 towne@country drives &runs great at night when cold doesnt start right away in mourning after 30min to an hour it starts like nothing wrong ive changed starter,alternator plugs this is secons year with problem
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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Posted this over in the regular Caravan section, but thought I'd try it here also.

    My wife drives our 2007 DGC with the 3.8L engine. We bought it used 2 years ago and it now has 59,600 miles on it.

    I started the van up the other day (Dec 22) to take it to get new tires. The car had been sitting in the driveway all day, temperature around 30 deg F. Immediately upon starting, I heard a loud bang, sort of like a belt coming off. I checked the serpentine belt and it was fine. The engine ran rough for a few seconds, like a cylinder was missing, then smoothed out. The CEL came on, but then cleared itself a day or two later. I pulled the codes anyway and got a P0306-"cylinder 6 misfire".

    Now, whenever we start the van up from a cold soak (overnight), there's a slight stumbling/missing that clears up in few seconds. This only occurs after sitting for several hours - it does not happen when you turn the engine off and back on again in a few minutes. Also, there's a ticking noise from the passenger side of the engine - where the serpentine belt is. The CEL is off, and I have not read the OBD-II port to see if any codes have been stored since I cleared them out.

    I'm thinking maybe a valve lifter went bad (#6 cylinder?), in that it drains it's oil when then engine sits and needs to be pumped back up again when the engine starts.

    Anyone else experience this? I've heard good things, longevity-wise about the 3.8L, and hope it's not a lifter.
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,881
    I agree that it sounds valve-related. Either a lifter or a sticking valve guide? Ticking is common if the oil level gets low as well, but should quiet down once the oil is topped off.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    greggloajgreggloaj Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 DGC that has the exact same problem with a lot more miles (140K). I suspect it is valve related; the van burns a lot of oil and whenever it is low on oil, the noise gets a lot worse--as the previous posting by xwesx already indicated. However, my van is over 10 years old and I don't want to invest any more money into it. Especially after replacing a transmission on it...seems to be a common problem amongst DGCs. Perhaps the ticking problem is another common problem seen in DGCs, or not?
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,881
    Ticking w/ low oil (usually anything more than 1 quart) is common in any engine and is a pretty sure-fire way of knowing you should check and top off the oil ASAP. I have 215,000 miles on my 1998 3.8L and the engine runs like it was new. I am actually astonished how well the engine runs and the fact that it has no oil leaks whatsoever. Now, if only the electrical system were not crap.....

    If you were in Alaska, I would be all for transplanting my engine into your van - I am confident you would get years more service out of it. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I changed the oil and filter this weekend, using Mobil 1 5W-30. Oil level is now good, but still hear the tapping a bit at start up. Seems to clear up completely once the engine is warmed up, though, as I alluded to, my wife drives the van most of the time, so I don't get to hear things much after the van is warm.

    What has me puzzled is that loud rap I heard when the problem first showed up - the one I said sounded like a belt breaking.
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,881
    Yes, me too, and that is why I think it is a valve problem. I think your approach, monitoring, is the best at this point.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    runningfamily6runningfamily6 Member Posts: 1
    I Googled that problem for my van as I had the same thing happen. Here's a solution that worked perfectly:
    Turn the car on and put the blower on high (heater). Of the 4 bottom buttons, press the bottom left and bottom right buttons at the same time . Keep holding for about 3 minutes. You will be able to hear it running a diagnostic. When it's finished the top button (rear wiper) will blink. Press the button and you're done.
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    billgrissombillgrissom Member Posts: 15
    In reply to the initial question, there are several traditional sources for a rough, missing idle.

    Most common is a vacuum leak. Seach for a hissing sound while you flex vacuum lines. New cars have much fewer lines than the 80's nightmares, but still the large line to the power brake booster. Disconnect and plug with your finger to test. Also check evaporative emissions lines. In fuel injected cars, a vacuum leak usually causes a fast idle and the computer compensates with more fuel so it doesn't run lean. Many new cars have an "idle air control valve", a motorized "leak" by the computer to set idle speed.

    Insufficient fuel flow from a failing fuel pump or clogged injectors can cause a lean mixture. However, that normally shows up at higher flow rates, not idle.

    A weak spark can cause missing. However, more common at wide open throttle at low speeds like accelerating up an on ramp, because harder to throw a spark at high cylinder pressure. Incidentally, that condition caused severe missing in my 2.4L Voyager, which I finally fixed by decreasing the plug gap to 0.045" per Chrysler's note for turbo 2.4L engines. The factory ignition appears marginal for what the manual specifies (recall 0.055").
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    alagares1alagares1 Member Posts: 1
    Have you been able to get any resolution? I have a 2008 T&C and have experienced the same issues over the last 12 months.
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    dobber77dobber77 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I have a 2007 Chrysler Town and Country Signature Series van that has a problem which I need some advice on before I go the auto repair shop.

    Recently, while doing a 175 mile trip, we noticed the RPM seemd to be racing when we had come to a stop in traffic. We noticed it at about the 2 hour (130 miles)mark of the drive. There was a wheezing type of sound as well. I needed to keep the brake forcefully applied, even while at a stand-still in the traffic. Normally, easy foot pressure to the brake pedal would suffice.

    After stopping ofr lunch the sound and racing wasnt' noticeable for the rest of the trip.

    On the way home, after a couple hours we noticed the sound again and the rpm stayed in the 1.5 - 1.75 range. I've since noticed that it deosn't happen on short runs. Only 100 miles or better.

    Has anyone experienced this, and does it sound transmission related, or powertrain?

    57,000 miles on it. Routine maintenance performed faithfully. No real issues thus far. Good vehicle overall.

    Thanks for any advice. b
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,881
    I doubt it is transmission-related, though it is likely putting a good deal of stress on your torque converter while it does this. I suspect you either have a vacuum leak (which may be the source of that 'wheezing' sound) or a bad throttle position sensor. You might consider, in the short term, putting the van in neutral or park when this happens and shutting it off for a moment. Often times, upon restart, the engine will return to normal operation (for a while, at least!).
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    dobber77dobber77 Member Posts: 3
    thanks for the response. Would you know what i would expect to pay for the TPS part to be replaced?
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,881
    To be replaced? Not sure. I replaced on on my Escort and the part was about $42; it took about five minutes (if that long) to replace it. You literally have to remove the plug, pull two small bolts, and reinstall.

    Don't discount the possibility of a vacuum leak, though. If you are sending it to a shop, I recommend asking them to thoroughly check it for one before replacing anything.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    dobber77dobber77 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info.
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    redsandvbredsandvb Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 T&C started have starting issues probably starting a year ago and has been getting worse as time goes on. There has been several nuances where when I try and start the van it starts and then dies as I can see that the tachometer doesn't move. it seems in this instance that it is like a security feature killing the engine after it is started. eventually if I hit the top of the cluster panel it will start normally. I also have the issue at times where I turn the key and there is a single click but no signs of the vehicle trying to start. I can sometimes correct this by several different methods like hitting the top of the cluster or sometimes if I leave the key in the on position for 15 seconds before trying to crank it over it will start. I have seen the the threads on the issue with the instrument cluster and wondering if that sounds likely or so other issue with the starter or such. Any input and help would be appreciated.
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    kamigkamig Member Posts: 1
    Hello!

    I have a '99 T&C and having the same issue. For me, the oil light comes on when it stalls out in the middle of the road. It started making a ticking noise, too...but found out that the engine oil was low. Also need to replace the gasket around the oil pan and noticed that the transmission pan is also leaking and needs the gasket replaced. So I made do both at the same time.

    I am just concerned that I could be dealing with something serious here and may end up bringing it to a Chrysler shop to have them read the codes. It all started after getting into an accident where I got hit on the driver side's front quarter panel. They fixed the body but now I have mechanical issues, which the collision shop and insurance agent said it was not related to the accident.

    Anything I should look for to confirm this issue? Kindly advise.
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    ivanb1ivanb1 Member Posts: 1
    Yes, my van has the same issue. Dealer today said a bad cluster (internal shorting) is causing the gauges to die, while a problem with the vehicle theft system is causing the problems with starting/engine dying.
    This has been very annoying, and they say that the VTS cannot be bypassed.
    I'm sure they're thing that troubleshooting this is getting to be pretty annoying too. Taking lots of time and they aren't quite sure what's the VTS root cause is.

    It seems very strange that both of these problems are correlated together.
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    kevinmcdkevinmcd Member Posts: 2
    Having similar issues to so many other unfortunate Chrysler owners. Fortunately, the stupid van died in the driveway. Read every message about this issue here and have tried or checked the following:

    Verified starter fuse isn't blown
    Verified starter relay is working
    Took starter off (that was fun ) and had it tested at Schucks - works fine
    Took off the instrument cluster and resoldered the joints at the cable junction
    Left battery disconnected for several hours
    When you put the key in and turn it, the relay clicks and the instrument panel lights up, but the car won't start. Any other ideas? :mad:
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,881
    Relay clicking and no start... mine does the same thing! It is electrical, but I still have not isolated the problem. Oddly, it fired right up on Sunday (two separate times) after several months of no luck. If I hear the fuel pump run instead of the relay click when I turn the key to "on", it will fire. Otherwise, nothing. If it starts, it will run just fine until the next time I shut it off, then all bets are off.

    Do you have problems with the instrument panel going dead? I was thinking that perhaps it is related to that, as mine had become much worse in the few months prior to it beginning its no-start.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    kevinmcdkevinmcd Member Posts: 2
    The instrument panel has consistently worked. I did try the security system reset, which didn't do anything for me, but you might want to try. Open the hood, then cycle the key in the rear liftgate door lock to unlock. That is supposed to send a disarm signal that, if your starting problem is that the car thinks it has been tampered with and won't start, resets the security system.
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    xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,881
    Quite happily, mine does not have an alarm.

    But, if that is the case regarding your instrument panel, I can check one off the list for likely culprits. I need to retest it, but last I checked, nothing controlled by the ASD (Automatic Shutdown) circuit worked when all I hear is the relay click (once). That includes the fuel pump, fuel injectors, and ignition module. However, the ASD relay checks out as okay. It is the exact same part number as several other relays in the box, and switching units does nothing to affect the outcome.

    Shortly before this all started on mine, the original fuel pump quite working (~215,000 miles). I replaced the pump and it worked just fine for about two weeks. The day I decided to sell the van (because my wife refused to drive it after being stranded by the fuel pump failure), this issue started and went from occasional to near-constant within the span of three weeks.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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    adams60adams60 Member Posts: 2
    My chrysler 2001 Town and country doesn t start at 6 or 7 am.When I open the door ,turn on the key no light on the dash board, but there is power on the in side light on the radio .; but 2-3 hours later or longer when it was cold it starts and runs all day. The battery,started, alternator are good. The mechanic can t find the problem.Thank you for helping to find this problem.
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    adams60adams60 Member Posts: 2
    When it is cold,No light come up on the dash board and the car doesn`t start, but after 1-2 hours it start normally
    When I turn on the A/C and after 15-20 minutes running, All lights come on the dash board.
    Thank you in advance for helping me found those problems,if you know them..
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    smedsleassmedsleas Member Posts: 7
    Thank for the info passing it on to my son. He has 1999 T & C
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    jim16622jim16622 Member Posts: 1
    I hope this helps everyone a little more. My 1999 Town & Country LTD had the following problems; intermittent starting/stalling problems, speedometer intermittently indicating approx 20 MPH high, door locks intermittently working, rear hatch lock would not work unless pressing the remote while attempting to open the hatch, oil pressure light intermittently illuminating at very low idle and when hot. The starting problem was temporarily fixed by a firm hand on the top of the engine instrument cluster.

    I read all of the blogs (just like I am sure you all are doing now) and found one common thread for the likely culprit.....the circuit board behind the instrument cluster. Thanks to the following web site (http://www.davintosh.com/2007/09/15/fixin-the-dashboard), I was able to remove the circuit board from my T&C, take it in to a local circuit board manufacturer in the western suburbs in the Chicago area (ManuTec, Inc. Mr Leonard Bednarczyk at 630-543-3022) and his staff of technicians identified 2 soldier joint failures where the main orange connector plug connects to the power chord. One pin had a complete failure, and the other had a fracture and impending failure. I asked the technician to re-solder all 13 pins, and re-installed the C/B in the panel and all items listed above have magically been working as designed. Special thanks to Leonard Bednarczyk at ManuTec! Good luck!! Jim G.
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    cutty96cutty96 Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    I have a 96 T&C that likes to stall while at idle and occasionally at cruising speeds.
    The check engine light comes on and goes off sporadically. It now has no power with the key off(will not open locks) and every time you start it the windshield wipers operate like you just connected the battery. Also the e-brake light stays on and the air-bag light stays on. A scanner will not work as it doesn't get power from the connector. What the hell is going on?!?!?!
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    anderson463anderson463 Member Posts: 1
    Does Anybody have the Slide Show that Nukbuk had put up a while ago...? The slide show has been taken down and I am starting to have the same problem in my T&C. Or if anybody can help me out with the locations of the soldering that needs to be done?

    THank you very much!!!

    ~Derek
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    toyotatechpatoyotatechpa Member Posts: 3
    I read all the forum and they said cluster the problem i can't find anything wrong with it. I also have no now speedo or tach that happen before this started. Any help would great
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    tsu670tsu670 Member Posts: 293
    There's a complaint filed with on the NHTSA Office of Defects database under 2010 Chrysler T&C that identifies a wiring harness grounding out on the intake manifold near the upper radiator hose being the cause of that vehicle's stalling problem. Happened when harness was wiggled a certain way. This was on a 4.0L engine, but perhaps something similar is happening with other motors.
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    jammin20jammin20 Member Posts: 1
    I had the instrument cluster problem in my 1998 T & C for a couple years until this past April when I did the same searching everybody does and repaired my instrument cluster myself. The van would start and stall with no readings on any of the gauges until the computer would lock everything out and make it act as if the battery was dead. I pulled out the Cluster and added a drop of solder to the 2 outer most pins, I believe they were black wires and I have not had the problem since. If I remember correctly I think I found step by step instructions with pictures somewhere on the web.
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    gordegorde Member Posts: 2
    Hey anderson463, I have a 1999 T&C LXi and have had numerous no start situations. My mechanic found a dead spot on the starter, R/R it, but still has a problem. He thinks it is in the instrument cluster...a bad circuit board. Makes sense, esp. after reading these comments. It's been a good vehicle for years and I want to keep it, use it like a truck, but have always had electrical problems, esp. w/pwr windows, hitch wiring and now this starting problem. I just bought a Honda Odyssey EX-L to get a more reliability factor, although I wanted to buy an American product. Too bad. I was waiting for the gas/electric prototype they were working on, like the Prius, but I heard Fiat won't continue that research for fleets like the USPS one Chysler had in the works in their Toronto plant. I can solder but I'm curious how hard it is to get the dashboard circuit board out. The blinker, directional module was easy but getting the steering wheel column back together wasn't easy. Any tips? I'm willing to try it myself now that I have a more reliable Honda. Maybe I will try ManuTec. Thanks jim16622, but you didn't say how much it cost for that repair. This vehicle has cost me too many repairs over the years, just replaced the serpentine belt and blower moter but I still sort of love it for all the hauling it's done. Gotta get the valve cover gaskets replaced too. That 3.8 is a good engine.
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    mismailimismaili Member Posts: 16
    hey I replaced my instrument Cluster paid about 400 hundred for it. Also, my mechanic who works for Chrysler dealer had to program it for me as while so, It's not all that dificult to remove the instrument cluster just a little time consuming and the hard part is getting it programmed correctly. hope this helps.
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    hatemytandchatemytandc Member Posts: 2
    I wish I would have found this site before I purchase my 2010. I drove the care off the lot with only 6 miles. I really didn’t know if I was ready to become a score mom at the age of 29, but my kids and I like to go out and have fun and would like to have space to bring other kids along, so for my 3 kids I become a score mom. I am not really handy with car nor do want to be stuck on the side of the road waiting for help so wanted to purchase a new car with a good warranty. I went to the dealership in Orlando Sand lake and john young. The sale was so nice took me to some use cars and try to sell me one. I told him that I didn’t want to have a user and have not clue what the last owner did to it. I told him I wanted a new car some that wont break down on me and if some was to happen to a new car it would be covered under warranty. I am really glad that I went new. ( I shouldn’t have purchase at all ) In Oct /2009. after about 1month of looking at cars I drove my van off the lot with about 6miles, and became a score mom.

    I had the car only little over 1 week and had about 100 miles on the car and I started to hear the breaks squeal. I didn’t think that it was my car becuz I had a 2010 Town and Country from Chrysler = shyster) but the car next to me. The next stop it happen again but no car was next to me so I start to tap the breaks and no way it was me. My breaks were and still are squealing. I called the dealer and was like my breaker are squealing. THE DEALER SAID THAT THE BREAK ARE SUPPOSE TO SQUEAL GIVE IT A COUPLE OF DAYS TO BREAK THEM IN. three days later it was worst. THEN I WAS TOLD THAT THEY WILL SQUEAL IN THE RAIN. I don’t know anyone that will buy a car that the break are suppose to squeal. Come on you look at the car next to you like what the hell is wrong with them they need to get the breaks check. If the breaks make noise when they are good what do you suppose to do take the car to the dealer every month to get the break becuz the squeal this month not be the right squeal. I told them that I wanted to have someone look at the breaks. I take the car in and guess what the car with about 200 miles on it had RUSTY BREAKS. They change them out THE CAR MUST HAVE BEEN SITTING TOO LONG.. Really I got a 2010 in 2009 how long is too long. Come on really. That was the least of my problems. Next issue I had with the car was I would start the car and it would turn off I start it again and it would turn I let it sit for a min and turn it on again. Finally I was able to drive of in my new 2010 town and country. I went the dealer and they ask me if I had gas in that car. I don’t think that I would have came to the dealer if I was out of gas and the car wouldn’t start. IT MAYBE THE KEYS SO THEY PROGRAMMED MY KEYS. A day late the car shut off again and again. I take it back and they said the CAR NEEDED AN UPDATE. Now after the update not only does the car shut off after it starts up it shuts off while drive. First it started at about 2-3 mph then it was 10-15 mph now we are at 35-40 mps time after time I take this car back to the dealer stated that there are no codes in the system so they don’t see anything that they could do. The door will open and close like something is stuck in the door. I take in and it needs another UPDATE.. The lock on the driver side doors will not lock you have to press it about 6-10x for it will lock Oh and don’t forget the dealer tell you about the lemon law like it easy. After 3 repair attempts they will buy your car back. The lemon law is just another way to make consume to pay for big company mistake. Only about 10% of the people actual win when they fight the manufacture of the cars. I have even ask for a co pilot so a system can record everything that is happening while it is happening. They tell me it wont fit on the new 2010. Then they said that they will use on that cant leave the dealer something like a co-pilot but not really. Do you think they found any codes after keep my car for over 3days. No but as soon as I drove it home it shut of while driving at about 50mph. Why would anyone what to keep going to the dealer if nothing was wrong with the van. I have to work and kids and school. The sad part about this is that this has been going on since 1996 models base on some of the web posting. I have so much to say about this, but to make longer story short. DO NOT BUY A TOWN AND COUNTRY
    THESE ARE THE ISSUES I AM HAVING WITH MY MINES. MY RATING FOR THIS CAR IS A NEG 10
    Tire light
    Door locks
    Automatic doors
    Breaks
    Start up
    Shutting off while driving :sick:
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    hatemytandchatemytandc Member Posts: 2
    edited September 2010
    :sick: I wish I would have found this site before I purchase my 2010. I drove the care off the lot with only 6 miles. I really didn’t know if I was ready to become a score mom at the age of 29, but my kids and I like to go out and have fun and would like to have space to bring other kids along, so for my 3 kids I become a score mom. I am not really handy with car nor do want to be stuck on the side of the road waiting for help so wanted to purchase a new car with a good warranty. I went to the dealership in Orlando Sand lake and john young. The sale was so nice took me to some use cars and try to sell me one. I told him that I didn’t want to have a user and have not clue what the last owner did to it. I told him I wanted a new car some that wont break down on me and if some was to happen to a new car it would be covered under warranty. I am really glad that I went new. ( I shouldn’t have purchase at all ) In Oct /2009. after about 1month of looking at cars I drove my van off the lot with about 6miles, and became a score mom.

    I had the car only little over 1 week and had about 100 miles on the car and I started to hear the breaks squeal. I didn’t think that it was my car becuz I had a 2010 Town and Country from Chrysler = shyster) but the car next to me. The next stop it happen again but no car was next to me so I start to tap the breaks and no way it was me. My breaks were and still are squealing. I called the dealer and was like my breaker are squealing. THE DEALER SAID THAT THE BREAK ARE SUPPOSE TO SQUEAL GIVE IT A COUPLE OF DAYS TO BREAK THEM IN. three days later it was worst. THEN I WAS TOLD THAT THEY WILL SQUEAL IN THE RAIN. I don’t know anyone that will buy a car that the break are suppose to squeal. Come on you look at the car next to you like what the hell is wrong with them they need to get the breaks check. If the breaks make noise when they are good what do you suppose to do take the car to the dealer every month to get the break becuz the squeal this month not be the right squeal. I told them that I wanted to have someone look at the breaks. I take the car in and guess what the car with about 200 miles on it had RUSTY BREAKS. They change them out THE CAR MUST HAVE BEEN SITTING TOO LONG.. Really I got a 2010 in 2009 how long is too long. Come on really. That was the least of my problems. Next issue I had with the car was I would start the car and it would turn off I start it again and it would turn I let it sit for a min and turn it on again. Finally I was able to drive of in my new 2010 town and country. I went the dealer and they ask me if I had gas in that car. I don’t think that I would have came to the dealer if I was out of gas and the car wouldn’t start. IT MAYBE THE KEYS SO THEY PROGRAMMED MY KEYS. A day late the car shut off again and again. I take it back and they said the CAR NEEDED AN UPDATE. Now after the update not only does the car shut off after it starts up it shuts off while drive. First it started at about 2-3 mph then it was 10-15 mph now we are at 35-40 mps time after time I take this car back to the dealer stated that there are no codes in the system so they don’t see anything that they could do. The door will open and close like something is stuck in the door. I take in and it needs another UPDATE.. The lock on the driver side doors will not lock you have to press it about 6-10x for it will lock Oh and don’t forget the dealer tell you about the lemon law like it easy. After 3 repair attempts they will buy your car back. The lemon law is just another way to make consume to pay for big company mistake. Only about 10% of the people actual win when they fight the manufacture of the cars. I have even ask for a co pilot so a system can record everything that is happening while it is happening. They tell me it wont fit on the new 2010. Then they said that they will use on that cant leave the dealer something like a co-pilot but not really. Do you think they found any codes after keep my car for over 3days. No but as soon as I drove it home it shut of while driving at about 50mph. Why would anyone what to keep going to the dealer if nothing was wrong with the van. I have to work and kids and school. The sad part about this is that this has been going on since 1996 models base on some of the web posting. I have so much to say about this, but to make longer story short. DO NOT BUY A TOWN AND COUNTRY
    THESE ARE THE ISSUES I AM HAVING WITH MY MINES. MY RATING FOR THIS CAR IS A NEG 10
    Tire light
    Door locks
    Automatic doors
    Breaks
    Start up
    Shutting off while driving
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    otwolimitedotwolimited Member Posts: 5
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    meduso99meduso99 Member Posts: 1
    how do you do this without going to a dealer ?
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    concerned99concerned99 Member Posts: 1
    We're having trouble with a loud ticking sound in the engine too. We put new plugs in and a few other tune up type things and now less than 2 weeks later it's noisy under the hood, sounds like a time bomb. Someone said it was a flat spot on a something (piston/valve??? I don't know what). Then reading this I thought maybe it was the S belt going bad? Is it the spark plugs? Can anyone help?
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    srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Loud ticking sound like it could be a valve lifter that went flat. This means that the oil, which the lifter needs to operate, is not getting to the lifter or is leaking out. Sometimes they cure themselves; other times they need to be replaced.

    If it's due, try an oil and filter change with a good quality oil.
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    mnachmnach Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem and our local repair shop can't figure it out. He called the dealer who seems to know nothing about this problem. Have you had any luck? It's so dangerous and I don't want to drive the vehicle, but I don't have a choice.
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    gotadodgegotadodge Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have been following these threads and just to give a little heads up, If you remove your cluster from the dash it bypasses the security system and your vans should start. Meaning you need to purchase a NEW OR USED cluster, There are other threads i have posted on other sites regarding this.(the soldering is letting go on the back side of the cluster which in turn throws the security system into high alert and shutting down the Vehicle). What seems to be happening is the short is getting hot and when it cools down if in the right spot it will start again. If not in the right position people are running around scratching their heads bald wondering WHY WONT THIS $^%&*# THING START.
    GOOD LUCK
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    matthew64matthew64 Member Posts: 1
    Hello after reading all the post regarding this crazy problem,,i went out to the van and repaired it my self ,,saved a couple of grand easy,,and i bet the dealer wouldn't be-able to find the problem,,a very frustrating problem, going out somewhere and not being-able ,to start the van and go home ,,it would start then shut off after a second or 2,,then after 3 or 4 times starting it would shut down then nothing ,,you would have to go find something to do for and hour then come back,presto it starts,, its a simple repair and wont cost you a dime ,,all you need is a fillips screw driver a # 15 torx driver soldering iron and solder,,remove the dash only on the drivers side take out the instrument cluster dismantle it,,re solder the the large main plug in the center ,,( WAH_LAH) your done reinstall the cluster no more ck-engine light ,no more security system issues,,no more weird acting gauges and lights,, you tube has the step by step info on re-soldering the cluster main board,,its very easy,, but it also helps im a tv repair man,,GOOD-LUCK
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    hsumnhsumn Member Posts: 2
    I had the same thing happen several times with my 2008 Town & Country Lmtd. Of course the light comes on, but when you restart - it wipes out the code. After numerous trips to the dealership with no luck, the light came on while driving & I took it straight to dealer and insisted that the ENGINE specialist look at the van. It was the EGR VALVE. They replaced the valve & gasket and did a 3 part induction cleaning. That was at the beginning of Feb 2011 and so far no more stalling.

    But now the starter is going bad - or more likely the solenoid contacts.
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    lonestar6lonestar6 Member Posts: 19
    I just joined Edmunds so don't know if you're still a member. My 2000 T&C is having the same problem. Pep Boys' master mechanic will replace ignition cylinder for around $160 but it won't be set to my original key. Were you towed to a dealer? My local dealer would give me zero info over the phone, insisting that he had to see the vehicle before talking $$ (maybe standard procedure for dealers, though). Having worked at a (non-Chrysler) dealership many years ago, I know how they are prone to overcharge but it would have the advantage of re-keying a new cylinder to my original key. Of course, I like your repair solution much better. Thanks for anything you can share about this.
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    sms0905sms0905 Member Posts: 1
    i have had similar problems with my 1998 Chrysler T&C LXI. I found if I rearm/lock the car with the alarm bob wait for five minutes and than unarm/unlock the car will start and everthing is fine. Try it I know it worked for me it may work for you. Good luck.
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    garvey1garvey1 Member Posts: 2
    Well there are a few things that can cause a car to stall but with town and country and voyagers I have found out that the black thing that is on the egr valve it has three lines on it won goes to the throttle body and the other two goes to the egr valve. You do not need any tools to remove it just pop off the lines and unplug it and it's out. The top pops off inside there is a diafram with a spring the diafram burns out when that happens it will make the car stall the bad news is that the dealer nor any auto part store sells that part just by it self. most of the time the electric part of it is fine just the diafram goes bad. Yesterday I had to go to the junk yard to get won it only cost me $6.00 it was much better than $65.00 to over a hundred dollar for a new egr valve system.
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