Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Does it crank? Does it try to run and then just dies? Do you have spark at any/all of the plugs? Do you have fuel flow into the fuel injectors (that is, is the fuel pump working)? Was it running fine one day, then just suddenly decided not to start the next?
Tell us a bit more about the vehicle? How many miles? What engine? Any previous history of a problem like this?
Unfortunately, I can't tell you where to go from here. I assume the PCM (ECU) is getting +12V?
I had the 3.3L in our '94 DC, but never had any problems with the ignition, so never had to replace or troubleshoot the parts you've already replaced.
My wife drives our 2007 DGC with the 3.8L engine. We bought it used 2 years ago and it now has 59,600 miles on it.
I started the van up the other day (Dec 22) to take it to get new tires. The car had been sitting in the driveway all day, temperature around 30 deg F. Immediately upon starting, I heard a loud bang, sort of like a belt coming off. I checked the serpentine belt and it was fine. The engine ran rough for a few seconds, like a cylinder was missing, then smoothed out. The CEL came on, but then cleared itself a day or two later. I pulled the codes anyway and got a P0306-"cylinder 6 misfire".
Now, whenever we start the van up from a cold soak (overnight), there's a slight stumbling/missing that clears up in few seconds. This only occurs after sitting for several hours - it does not happen when you turn the engine off and back on again in a few minutes. Also, there's a ticking noise from the passenger side of the engine - where the serpentine belt is. The CEL is off, and I have not read the OBD-II port to see if any codes have been stored since I cleared them out.
I'm thinking maybe a valve lifter went bad (#6 cylinder?), in that it drains it's oil when then engine sits and needs to be pumped back up again when the engine starts.
Anyone else experience this? I've heard good things, longevity-wise about the 3.8L, and hope it's not a lifter.
If you were in Alaska, I would be all for transplanting my engine into your van - I am confident you would get years more service out of it.
What has me puzzled is that loud rap I heard when the problem first showed up - the one I said sounded like a belt breaking.
Turn the car on and put the blower on high (heater). Of the 4 bottom buttons, press the bottom left and bottom right buttons at the same time . Keep holding for about 3 minutes. You will be able to hear it running a diagnostic. When it's finished the top button (rear wiper) will blink. Press the button and you're done.
Most common is a vacuum leak. Seach for a hissing sound while you flex vacuum lines. New cars have much fewer lines than the 80's nightmares, but still the large line to the power brake booster. Disconnect and plug with your finger to test. Also check evaporative emissions lines. In fuel injected cars, a vacuum leak usually causes a fast idle and the computer compensates with more fuel so it doesn't run lean. Many new cars have an "idle air control valve", a motorized "leak" by the computer to set idle speed.
Insufficient fuel flow from a failing fuel pump or clogged injectors can cause a lean mixture. However, that normally shows up at higher flow rates, not idle.
A weak spark can cause missing. However, more common at wide open throttle at low speeds like accelerating up an on ramp, because harder to throw a spark at high cylinder pressure. Incidentally, that condition caused severe missing in my 2.4L Voyager, which I finally fixed by decreasing the plug gap to 0.045" per Chrysler's note for turbo 2.4L engines. The factory ignition appears marginal for what the manual specifies (recall 0.055").
I have a 2007 Chrysler Town and Country Signature Series van that has a problem which I need some advice on before I go the auto repair shop.
Recently, while doing a 175 mile trip, we noticed the RPM seemd to be racing when we had come to a stop in traffic. We noticed it at about the 2 hour (130 miles)mark of the drive. There was a wheezing type of sound as well. I needed to keep the brake forcefully applied, even while at a stand-still in the traffic. Normally, easy foot pressure to the brake pedal would suffice.
After stopping ofr lunch the sound and racing wasnt' noticeable for the rest of the trip.
On the way home, after a couple hours we noticed the sound again and the rpm stayed in the 1.5 - 1.75 range. I've since noticed that it deosn't happen on short runs. Only 100 miles or better.
Has anyone experienced this, and does it sound transmission related, or powertrain?
57,000 miles on it. Routine maintenance performed faithfully. No real issues thus far. Good vehicle overall.
Thanks for any advice. b
Don't discount the possibility of a vacuum leak, though. If you are sending it to a shop, I recommend asking them to thoroughly check it for one before replacing anything.
I have a '99 T&C and having the same issue. For me, the oil light comes on when it stalls out in the middle of the road. It started making a ticking noise, too...but found out that the engine oil was low. Also need to replace the gasket around the oil pan and noticed that the transmission pan is also leaking and needs the gasket replaced. So I made do both at the same time.
I am just concerned that I could be dealing with something serious here and may end up bringing it to a Chrysler shop to have them read the codes. It all started after getting into an accident where I got hit on the driver side's front quarter panel. They fixed the body but now I have mechanical issues, which the collision shop and insurance agent said it was not related to the accident.
Anything I should look for to confirm this issue? Kindly advise.
This has been very annoying, and they say that the VTS cannot be bypassed.
I'm sure they're thing that troubleshooting this is getting to be pretty annoying too. Taking lots of time and they aren't quite sure what's the VTS root cause is.
It seems very strange that both of these problems are correlated together.
Verified starter fuse isn't blown
Verified starter relay is working
Took starter off (that was fun ) and had it tested at Schucks - works fine
Took off the instrument cluster and resoldered the joints at the cable junction
Left battery disconnected for several hours
When you put the key in and turn it, the relay clicks and the instrument panel lights up, but the car won't start. Any other ideas? :mad:
Do you have problems with the instrument panel going dead? I was thinking that perhaps it is related to that, as mine had become much worse in the few months prior to it beginning its no-start.
But, if that is the case regarding your instrument panel, I can check one off the list for likely culprits. I need to retest it, but last I checked, nothing controlled by the ASD (Automatic Shutdown) circuit worked when all I hear is the relay click (once). That includes the fuel pump, fuel injectors, and ignition module. However, the ASD relay checks out as okay. It is the exact same part number as several other relays in the box, and switching units does nothing to affect the outcome.
Shortly before this all started on mine, the original fuel pump quite working (~215,000 miles). I replaced the pump and it worked just fine for about two weeks. The day I decided to sell the van (because my wife refused to drive it after being stranded by the fuel pump failure), this issue started and went from occasional to near-constant within the span of three weeks.
When I turn on the A/C and after 15-20 minutes running, All lights come on the dash board.
Thank you in advance for helping me found those problems,if you know them..
I read all of the blogs (just like I am sure you all are doing now) and found one common thread for the likely culprit.....the circuit board behind the instrument cluster. Thanks to the following web site (http://www.davintosh.com/2007/09/15/fixin-the-dashboard), I was able to remove the circuit board from my T&C, take it in to a local circuit board manufacturer in the western suburbs in the Chicago area (ManuTec, Inc. Mr Leonard Bednarczyk at 630-543-3022) and his staff of technicians identified 2 soldier joint failures where the main orange connector plug connects to the power chord. One pin had a complete failure, and the other had a fracture and impending failure. I asked the technician to re-solder all 13 pins, and re-installed the C/B in the panel and all items listed above have magically been working as designed. Special thanks to Leonard Bednarczyk at ManuTec! Good luck!! Jim G.
The check engine light comes on and goes off sporadically. It now has no power with the key off(will not open locks) and every time you start it the windshield wipers operate like you just connected the battery. Also the e-brake light stays on and the air-bag light stays on. A scanner will not work as it doesn't get power from the connector. What the hell is going on?!?!?!
THank you very much!!!
~Derek
I had the car only little over 1 week and had about 100 miles on the car and I started to hear the breaks squeal. I didn’t think that it was my car becuz I had a 2010 Town and Country from Chrysler = shyster) but the car next to me. The next stop it happen again but no car was next to me so I start to tap the breaks and no way it was me. My breaks were and still are squealing. I called the dealer and was like my breaker are squealing. THE DEALER SAID THAT THE BREAK ARE SUPPOSE TO SQUEAL GIVE IT A COUPLE OF DAYS TO BREAK THEM IN. three days later it was worst. THEN I WAS TOLD THAT THEY WILL SQUEAL IN THE RAIN. I don’t know anyone that will buy a car that the break are suppose to squeal. Come on you look at the car next to you like what the hell is wrong with them they need to get the breaks check. If the breaks make noise when they are good what do you suppose to do take the car to the dealer every month to get the break becuz the squeal this month not be the right squeal. I told them that I wanted to have someone look at the breaks. I take the car in and guess what the car with about 200 miles on it had RUSTY BREAKS. They change them out THE CAR MUST HAVE BEEN SITTING TOO LONG.. Really I got a 2010 in 2009 how long is too long. Come on really. That was the least of my problems. Next issue I had with the car was I would start the car and it would turn off I start it again and it would turn I let it sit for a min and turn it on again. Finally I was able to drive of in my new 2010 town and country. I went the dealer and they ask me if I had gas in that car. I don’t think that I would have came to the dealer if I was out of gas and the car wouldn’t start. IT MAYBE THE KEYS SO THEY PROGRAMMED MY KEYS. A day late the car shut off again and again. I take it back and they said the CAR NEEDED AN UPDATE. Now after the update not only does the car shut off after it starts up it shuts off while drive. First it started at about 2-3 mph then it was 10-15 mph now we are at 35-40 mps time after time I take this car back to the dealer stated that there are no codes in the system so they don’t see anything that they could do. The door will open and close like something is stuck in the door. I take in and it needs another UPDATE.. The lock on the driver side doors will not lock you have to press it about 6-10x for it will lock Oh and don’t forget the dealer tell you about the lemon law like it easy. After 3 repair attempts they will buy your car back. The lemon law is just another way to make consume to pay for big company mistake. Only about 10% of the people actual win when they fight the manufacture of the cars. I have even ask for a co pilot so a system can record everything that is happening while it is happening. They tell me it wont fit on the new 2010. Then they said that they will use on that cant leave the dealer something like a co-pilot but not really. Do you think they found any codes after keep my car for over 3days. No but as soon as I drove it home it shut of while driving at about 50mph. Why would anyone what to keep going to the dealer if nothing was wrong with the van. I have to work and kids and school. The sad part about this is that this has been going on since 1996 models base on some of the web posting. I have so much to say about this, but to make longer story short. DO NOT BUY A TOWN AND COUNTRY
THESE ARE THE ISSUES I AM HAVING WITH MY MINES. MY RATING FOR THIS CAR IS A NEG 10
Tire light
Door locks
Automatic doors
Breaks
Start up
Shutting off while driving :sick:
I had the car only little over 1 week and had about 100 miles on the car and I started to hear the breaks squeal. I didn’t think that it was my car becuz I had a 2010 Town and Country from Chrysler = shyster) but the car next to me. The next stop it happen again but no car was next to me so I start to tap the breaks and no way it was me. My breaks were and still are squealing. I called the dealer and was like my breaker are squealing. THE DEALER SAID THAT THE BREAK ARE SUPPOSE TO SQUEAL GIVE IT A COUPLE OF DAYS TO BREAK THEM IN. three days later it was worst. THEN I WAS TOLD THAT THEY WILL SQUEAL IN THE RAIN. I don’t know anyone that will buy a car that the break are suppose to squeal. Come on you look at the car next to you like what the hell is wrong with them they need to get the breaks check. If the breaks make noise when they are good what do you suppose to do take the car to the dealer every month to get the break becuz the squeal this month not be the right squeal. I told them that I wanted to have someone look at the breaks. I take the car in and guess what the car with about 200 miles on it had RUSTY BREAKS. They change them out THE CAR MUST HAVE BEEN SITTING TOO LONG.. Really I got a 2010 in 2009 how long is too long. Come on really. That was the least of my problems. Next issue I had with the car was I would start the car and it would turn off I start it again and it would turn I let it sit for a min and turn it on again. Finally I was able to drive of in my new 2010 town and country. I went the dealer and they ask me if I had gas in that car. I don’t think that I would have came to the dealer if I was out of gas and the car wouldn’t start. IT MAYBE THE KEYS SO THEY PROGRAMMED MY KEYS. A day late the car shut off again and again. I take it back and they said the CAR NEEDED AN UPDATE. Now after the update not only does the car shut off after it starts up it shuts off while drive. First it started at about 2-3 mph then it was 10-15 mph now we are at 35-40 mps time after time I take this car back to the dealer stated that there are no codes in the system so they don’t see anything that they could do. The door will open and close like something is stuck in the door. I take in and it needs another UPDATE.. The lock on the driver side doors will not lock you have to press it about 6-10x for it will lock Oh and don’t forget the dealer tell you about the lemon law like it easy. After 3 repair attempts they will buy your car back. The lemon law is just another way to make consume to pay for big company mistake. Only about 10% of the people actual win when they fight the manufacture of the cars. I have even ask for a co pilot so a system can record everything that is happening while it is happening. They tell me it wont fit on the new 2010. Then they said that they will use on that cant leave the dealer something like a co-pilot but not really. Do you think they found any codes after keep my car for over 3days. No but as soon as I drove it home it shut of while driving at about 50mph. Why would anyone what to keep going to the dealer if nothing was wrong with the van. I have to work and kids and school. The sad part about this is that this has been going on since 1996 models base on some of the web posting. I have so much to say about this, but to make longer story short. DO NOT BUY A TOWN AND COUNTRY
THESE ARE THE ISSUES I AM HAVING WITH MY MINES. MY RATING FOR THIS CAR IS A NEG 10
Tire light
Door locks
Automatic doors
Breaks
Start up
Shutting off while driving
If it's due, try an oil and filter change with a good quality oil.
GOOD LUCK
But now the starter is going bad - or more likely the solenoid contacts.