Changing axle ratios will not effect the speedo reading. The speedo reading is gotten by averaging the 4 ABS sensors at the wheels, so the axle ratio has no effect on the speedo.
The new T-Bird does 0-60 in 7 seconds flat. It has a 3:58 rear ratio. When I asked Mark at Mania 3 why the T-Bird has a 3:58 in light of CAFE regs, he agreed with me that the T-Bird was more limited in production and thus less likely to affect overall corporate CAFE. So the early V-8 LSes should have better acceleration times. Yes, we can change our rear ratios at will. The speedo is taken off the ABS sensors. Everything should adjust to the new ratio. About Coneinator at Mania 3: Except for one holy donut spinout near the end of the course on my fourth run of 11 runs, I don't think I hit any cones. I had only one cone mark on the rear and I attribute that to that one spin-out. Jonathan loved to spin near the end. I learned at Mania 1 that this is not the best place to "make time". But then I got to drive my own car with NO Traction Control. My best run was 65.325 and I did 3 runs in the 65 range. Jonathan was right about tire pressures. The rears don't work very hard and run a lot cooler than the fronts. Thus, run the rears with 2-3 lbs less pressure (36-37) while the Firehawks like about 40 hot in the front. Your tires may vary. Mania 3 runs were held on a "practice" day for the real race on Sunday. So cones were not called in and counted. Your time slip was not corrected for cones. So some times may not be "for real", as has been mentioned here before. But it was all in the spirit of fun and to illustrate the capability of the LS versus the folly of our egos. Like the "Peter Principle" suggests, each one of us reached our own level of incompetence. Or in the words of Clint Eastword in Dirty Harry: "A man has to know his limitations". Kudos to those brave enough to try.
Clint eastwood uttered those immortal words in Magnum Force, right after Hal Holbrook blew up in the car...it was the 3rd "Harry" movie, I believe, and I quote it myself quite often
gschwartz is correct. With the same engine RPM the speed will be faster with the numerically lower (3.31) rear axle. Or taken a different way: At the same speed the 3.31 will be turning less RPMs than the 3.58. That's the penalty for better low end grunt with the 3.58.
You're thinking of the error that can occur when changing the rear axle on cars that use the transmission to determine speed.
I didn't remember the exact movie in the series. I liked the scenes just before the car blew up that were filmed on the aircraft carrier. They just don't make movies like those anymore. Not many special effects. Pre-digital probably. Those 67 Plymouths were not too sophisticated and their torsion bar suspensions were entertaining on those San Francisco hills. This was the "Bullitt" era.
It's quite true that our electrical systems are maxed out, but according to the Sylvania site, their HID systems draw less power than the stock system.
they also are not allowed to dispense "justice" quite the way Harry Callahan did, but there are times when it ain't such a bad idea.....bring back the 44 Magnum, "the most powerful handgun in the world"...bless you, Harry...:):):)
Dog-gone, I still Love my LS. I had mentioned to scott8 about using silicone spray into the window receiver (weather-stripping) as suggested by my dealer before the big chill. It never came here! I was lazy (Like that's a surprise) and missed some needed preventative maintenance! My fault, not the cars. It is still under warentee though!
A couple more thoughts about HID's. I believe their "light-off" wattage is much higher than their running wattage, so most power is required upon lighting the lamps. I realize that their stationary power consumption would be lower than the standard halogens, but I'm not sure how the Front Module would interpret the amperage draw using the HID's. Would you get a constant "headlight out" warning since you the amperage would be lower, would the wiring be up to the additional load at lighting the lamps or would everything work as we hope?
It's somewhat funny when I think about it, but I remember when a 65 amp alternator was consider "Heavy-duty", now it barely is up to task in our modern cars!
Haven't tested RPMs, but got under the car with no muss and no fuss. Things are whistle clean, with no drips, leaks, caked on grime etc.
Tag facing rear of car reads 3 31 xx xx etc.
First three digits likely tell the story. Guess I have to blame the mileage on my heavy foot. Ah well, gas is cheap----fun is priceless.
I can honestly say this is one of the few cars I've owned since 1970 that I wanted to drive for the fun of driving it. Remember the old VW beetle? Everything was a long trip. Lots of cars are nice to travel in. This is different. This one makes me grin.
Funny thing, I've driven my LS over 1000 miles at once on three occasions; no sore back, sore butt, stiff neck, nothing. Yet the facial muscles get to feeling funny after a brief drive on a twisty road. Be warned: it doesn't go away after long-term use.:)
I tried bleeding the brakes today starting on the RR. I only got about 2 oz. of fluid and then no more. I checked the mityvac gun and it was working. At first I had the parking brake on then realized it and took it off. Still couldn't get any more. Any ideas? Did I miss a step somewhere? I took the cap off, drew off as much of the old fluid as possible and refilled with fresh dot 3 - left the cap off. Put the mityvac on the bleed screw with the adapter. Pumped it 15 or 20 times to create vacuum then cracked the bleeder open for a few seconds then closed it.
It has been a long time since I posted. Delighted to see Stanny1 is still around.
My LS, a V6 Manual, is approaching two years old. I love the car, and have only $16,000 miles on it. Since I bought it with a two-year prepaid lease, my decision date is at the end of May.
Before I decide, there are a few questions:
1) Is there a good way to get more power from the V6? I would be willing to spend a few thousand dollars, but don't want to compromise the car's extraordianry drivability.
2) Is there a bloody V8 manual, or better yet--SVT-type version of the LS coming--I would buy the car and just hang onto it until nirvana arrived at my local LM dealer.
3) Should I switch to someting else? I test drove a Jaguar X-Type--nice, pretty quick with the 3.0 and manual, but costly, and not as quiet or comfortable as the LS from my short test drive (other opinions welcome!). I would consider a Cadillac CTS, but it seems only marginally more powerful, and not much of a step up. Any BMW or AUDI is out, out, out--they are dull dull dull. Don't even mention Japanese cars.
The most important performance improver for the LS V-6 is the reduction of pumping losses. The air box on the 2002 is less restrictive and you can either buy a 2002 air box ($151.00 from Torrie at Ford Parts Network) like I did, or gut out the bottom of your air box for more flow. Next is exhaust. The 2.25" pipe from the catalytic converter is squeezed down to 1.5" on only the V-6 models. The Borla cat-back system restores the entire system to 2.25", eliminates sharp bends, adds less restrictive mufflers and an "X-Box" instead of the two resonators. These two mods should be good for at least a 10hp increase, as the 2002 is rated 220hp with it's new air box and just less restrictive mufflers. I agree, the CTS is not really a step up. The first year of the CTS is crippled by the use of the old Opel engine. Next year the new Caddy engine debuts in the CTS and that's supposed to be more impressive. Sometime later in the year, the Infiniti G35 with six-speed and 260hp/260 lbs torque will debut. This is the most anticipated manual in many years.
Lincoln has confirmed a high performance version of the LS but no details. The LLSOC members got a sneak peak at the 2003 last weekend but they're sworn to silence until the details are released to the public - most likely in 2-3 months. More power is expected for the V8 (like the 2003 S-type) but it's not clear about the V6. It doesn't appear there will be a V8 manual - at least not yet. There are also some styling changes expected. Hopefully the new info will be out before you have to decide. I think you'd be ok either keeping the one you have and making the mods Stanny1 suggested or getting a 2003. Although the 2003 may not be out til later in the year. I don't think there are any serious alternatives outside Audi and BMW.
So, I had a question and figured that before I asked here I'd check over at LLSOC.com. Wow, what a surprise the new design was! Looks great, but none of the links across the top worked for me. (But then, I use Opera, with pop-ups and other things turned off, so it's not uncommon for some sites not to work)
Anyway, the question... Has anybody had a problem with the moonroof failing to retract the whole way when you hold the switch down? Mine typically closes about 95% of the way, and then something starts sticking. I have to let go of the switch and jog it a few times to get it to close the last little bit. I'm going in for an oil change and I'll have them look at it, because I'm nervous I'll forget sometime (you can't tell visually from the inside that it isn't closed) or somebody else will be driving the car and not realize it, and I'll end up having my interior get soaked.
Drove into Manhattan yesterday from here in Fairfield county, with 3 passengers who all marveled at the comfort and performance. On two occasions though they were flustered by the trunk lid though, when it refused to latch. Anyway, I'm always pleasantly surprised by my LS in the city, but I guess I shouldn't be. It can easily jockey with the hordes of yellow Crown Vics, it's a good Avenue cruiser, and it draws looks.
At Edmunds new SUV prices-Explorer, they are now showing the option code for AdvanceTrac Stability Control System which requres V-8 and Trailer Towing Prep. Class III/IV Package option (which includes 3.73 LIMITED-SLIP axle ratio). Hmmmm...I guess it can be done and maybe someone has figured out a way to combine the two.
Ran a quick errand yesterday, and missed the turn into my neighborhood coming home. Oops! Had to drive down this winding country road quite a while to find a proper turnaround point.
About ten miles out, saw a BMW (5 series) coming up a little too fast behind me just as I hit some 30 mph curves. Forgot the brakes, dropped the SST down a couple notches, and lets just say he didn't "grow" in my mirror.
I don't know what your roads are like, but I grew up in Michigan's UP. We had lots of room on the sides of the road to accomodate plowed snow in the winter. That hasn't been my experience in either Kentucky or Virginia since then, and sometimes it seems they built the roads around some of these 300 year old oaks that virtually touch the pavement. The other difference here is that we don't have that cushion between pavement and treeline to see the four legged vermin with antlers. They step directly from the underbrush onto the roadway.
Guess I need to find some better roads, save the adventuresome stuff for daylight hours, and recognize that I don't have to play games with BMWs even if I can.
Remember - Stability control and traction control are two different things. If the explorer (I think this option is also available on the new expedition) has a LSD then there probably isn't an electronic traction control. The question is really that once you have stability control then electronic traction control is basically just a software add-on which has to be cheaper than a LSD. Of course these SUVs have always had LSD available off the shelf and the LS does not. That's probably the difference.
I've been out of the country for several weeks and am just catching up on past posts. Saw the message re: seat wear. I have a 2000 (2/01 build)with dark charcoal interior. I noticed seat wear at about 6,000 miles. At 15,000 miles, it had become a quarter sized spot where the dye had worn thin, but not the leather. I had it replaced under warranty. The new one started rubbing/fading within weeks. As my lease ends in three weeks, I'm content to let the dealer take care of it. I love this car and will pick-up a 2003 when they are ready. However, I do hope they have attended to the seat wear issue.
Finally got some descent weather to take my wintering LS out for a joyride! Of course, I had to drive "a few" miles out of my way to get where I really didn't need to be, in the first place!
Of course, I just had to "blow out the cobwebs" a couple of times. I'll give the guy in the Neon an "E" for effort for attempting to race me!
That is one thing I've noticed with this car, it does prompt suprise challenges from those drivers that you would least expect it! (I don't tailgate, etc. to provoke it, either...)
Had the LS in for some service work and asked them to check some delayed shifting that I noticed recently. Car has 45,000 miles on it. Transmission was a quart low on fluid. Where did it go? There is no obvious sign of leakage.
I put many miles on my cars before selling them (usually a minimum of 175,000 miles) and have never added fluid (at least in the past 15 years). Don't even change it, just run them and have never had to do any maintenance on the transmissions.
Just a quick check to see if I should be concerned since the warranty will be gone in a couple of months.
My 02 LS V8 occasionally omits gray or almost white smoke when starting after sitting overnight. I haven't been able to be back there in time to see which pipe it is coming from. Anyone else notice this?
IIRC auto trans service is recommended at 60k intervals, 30k for severe service. I, too, can remember when ATs were so simple and overbuilt that you had to deliberately abuse them to get one to wear out before the engine. That's changed, overall, for the better IMHO.
randatola, I've had the same problem on rare occasions, and believe others have as well. But too rare to be able to duplicate it for the dealer, and the switch always works fine when it's pushed all the way back to "express open".
tlahaye, yes, you DO have to play games with BMWs. I think it's in the owner's manual, or warranty requirements, or something.
Thanks for straightening me out. I'll check the manual as you suggest, as I'm sure its in there. At the same time, not wanting those connoisseurs of Bavarian craftsmanship to hurt themselves, I'll also find wider roads with smaller trees.
I asked Mark about this a while back. He said the change interval is 30,000 miles in severe service. He also said that all service is severe service in his opinion.
Thanks for straightening me out. I'll check the manual as you suggest, as I'm sure its in there. At the same time, not wanting those connoisseurs of Bavarian craftsmanship to hurt themselves, I'll also find wider roads with smaller trees.
That will prove interesting for all of you with "free" 3-year service.
Thanks for the tip. I bought my car used with 32K miles, and while it appears to be well maintained, I want to be sure it is going forward. One thing that impresses me in the posts I read on this site is the active interest in routine maintenance. This is true even though I perceive many LS drivers lease their cars. An interest in maintaining a car you won't "own" past the warranty period indicates a fundamental respect for the machinery.
This is really a Mark question. I understand there are shops that drain and refill transmissions, replacing maybe half the fluid. Others actually flush and I believe pump out the torque converter (or claim to anyway). Costs twice as much. Would you recommend I drive 50 miles (DC metro traffic, so not the best of drives) to get the so-called premium service for this transmission?
What does the recommended service entail in terms of screens, filters, etc?
The way it is done it will change about 95% of the fluid, including the fluid in the torque converter. Most places use a machine that connects into a cooler line. As the old fluid is pumped out new fluid is pumped into the other end of the cooler line. This fluid is straight from the torque converter, so it is getting it's fluid changed, too.
I do not believe it is necessary to drop the pan and change the filter. Ford does not recommend a filter change for the life of the transmission.
I have opened some VERY high mileage filters and didn't see any reason why they needed to be changed. If the filter is plugged enough to restrict the flow the transmission has already failed.
I've spoken in the past about how I like to do my own service work on my cars. However, my LS was at the dealer last week to have the updated door handles installed. I thought that while it was there, I'd wimp out and have them service the transmission, plus they have the machine that pumps it all out. The service tech asked, "How many miles are on it?" I said, "14K". He replied, "Wait until 30K, and save your money". I'm just used to doing it annually, regardless of mileage.
Obviously rebates do impact the value of used vehicles. But most manufacturers are currently offering rebates in the $2,000 range, so theoretically those makes should also be impacted similarly. If they do not offer rebates, most are offering discounted loan rates or increased lease residual values. Lincoln is among many makes that are marketing certified used vehicles to improve residual values/used car prices. Mercedes, BMW, Lexus and many others are doing it too.
I saw the post by gooyrl above saying that those that leased the LS in 2000 did better than those who bought.
The question I ask is: why?
My LS lease expires in May. As I look at the numbers it appears that the residual value I will pay will be considerably less than the Edmunds TMV for a used LS, even less than the trade-in value.
As I recall, the residual for the 2000 LS I bought was 63%. But since the residual was figured on MSRP, and the price I payed was $200 over invoice, the actual residual value was higher than the quoted.
The way I look at this, I would have been better off if I just payed cash--but not a lot better. As I computed it the discounted net cost of leasing instead of purchasing was about $600 in 2000 dollars.
I also have both these problems..... smoke someimte when starting and the moonroof sometime not retracting without multiple hits to the switch. going to the dealer soon...uhgggg
My drivers side seat heater died yesterday! I have a 2000 LSV8 with a Dec 99 build date.
I know this has been a common problem with early 2000 models and after 2 years of ownership I was hoping it wasn't going to happen to me.
I have not read any posts in a while on this problem. I believe it is caused by a poor quality part in the heater unit installed in the seat.
Is there a TSB on this problem? What has to be done at the dealer to repair the seat? Would it be anything else other then this defective part? The button on the dash still lights up and shuts off after the normal time.
My seat heater (10/99 build) also quit working recently. My right headlight also has condensation and one of the license plate lights has come loose. I'll have the tranny fluid changed and (if I can't figure out how to do it myself) have the brake fluid replaced.
I just picked up a 2001 LS service CD on ebay for $9.99 plus $4 shipping. Mine is a 2000 but there weren't any significant changes.
Did I hear correctly that Lincoln is only selling 0.5% manuals right now? That's like 200 vehicles. How can Lincoln justify a separate powetrain for 200 cars a year??
It will be interesting to see how the 2003 S-type V6 manual sells here.
It is a defective part. The wires are overly stressed, esp. when inflating the lumbar and eventually break (or is it brake, lol). I think there's a TSB, but you can check LLSOC to be sure.
My 2000 (build 7/99) driver's seat heater failed in December 2001. When I made my appointment with the dealer, they scheduled an upholstery person to come out that day to do the replacement. After testing, they only replaced the upper back part and left the original bottom heater alone. It was done in 1 day. Worked fine this AM (18 degrees in Chicago).
These are the interior door handles on early models that can accidentally activate the door lock as it's released and has resulted in some people being locked out of the car.
Victor, Yes, two parts should be heating, the butt and the back. When mine failed, it was intermittent whether it worked at all or just the bottom seemed to work. Most of the heat is felt at the bottom but there should be some heat towards the middle/lower back also.
When my seat heater was not working, the amount of heat was very low. Normally the warmth would be enough that I would consider manually turning off the seat heater prior to the timed turnoff. When it was not working right, the bottom heat barely made it warm and definitely never made me want to turn the heater off early.
I didn't even consider the seat heater. Not in warm, sunny South Florida. But the forecast for tonight is for a freeze! Can I get a quick loan of a retrofit? Chuck
Comments
Yes, we can change our rear ratios at will. The speedo is taken off the ABS sensors. Everything should adjust to the new ratio.
About Coneinator at Mania 3: Except for one holy donut spinout near the end of the course on my fourth run of 11 runs, I don't think I hit any cones. I had only one cone mark on the rear and I attribute that to that one spin-out. Jonathan loved to spin near the end. I learned at Mania 1 that this is not the best place to "make time". But then I got to drive my own car with NO Traction Control. My best run was 65.325 and I did 3 runs in the 65 range. Jonathan was right about tire pressures. The rears don't work very hard and run a lot cooler than the fronts. Thus, run the rears with 2-3 lbs less pressure (36-37) while the Firehawks like about 40 hot in the front. Your tires may vary. Mania 3 runs were held on a "practice" day for the real race on Sunday. So cones were not called in and counted. Your time slip was not corrected for cones. So some times may not be "for real", as has been mentioned here before. But it was all in the spirit of fun and to illustrate the capability of the LS versus the folly of our egos. Like the "Peter Principle" suggests, each one of us reached our own level of incompetence. Or in the words of Clint Eastword in Dirty Harry: "A man has to know his limitations". Kudos to those brave enough to try.
You're thinking of the error that can occur when changing the rear axle on cars that use the transmission to determine speed.
Sorry about your window, Ray.
A couple more thoughts about HID's. I believe their "light-off" wattage is much higher than their running wattage, so most power is required upon lighting the lamps. I realize that their stationary power consumption would be lower than the standard halogens, but I'm not sure how the Front Module would interpret the amperage draw using the HID's. Would you get a constant "headlight out" warning since you the amperage would be lower, would the wiring be up to the additional load at lighting the lamps or would everything work as we hope?
It's somewhat funny when I think about it, but I remember when a 65 amp alternator was consider "Heavy-duty", now it barely is up to task in our modern cars!
Haven't tested RPMs, but got under the car with no muss and no fuss. Things are whistle clean, with no drips, leaks, caked on grime etc.
Tag facing rear of car reads 3 31 xx xx etc.
First three digits likely tell the story. Guess I have to blame the mileage on my heavy foot. Ah well, gas is cheap----fun is priceless.
I can honestly say this is one of the few cars I've owned since 1970 that I wanted to drive for the fun of driving it. Remember the old VW beetle? Everything was a long trip. Lots of cars are nice to travel in. This is different. This one makes me grin.
Scott
LLSOC Member (still grinning @ 42k miles)
My LS, a V6 Manual, is approaching two years old. I love the car, and have only $16,000 miles on it. Since I bought it with a two-year prepaid lease, my decision date is at the end of May.
Before I decide, there are a few questions:
1) Is there a good way to get more power from the V6? I would be willing to spend a few thousand dollars, but don't want to compromise the car's extraordianry drivability.
2) Is there a bloody V8 manual, or better yet--SVT-type version of the LS coming--I would buy the car and just hang onto it until nirvana arrived at my local LM dealer.
3) Should I switch to someting else? I test drove a Jaguar X-Type--nice, pretty quick with the 3.0 and manual, but costly, and not as quiet or comfortable as the LS from my short test drive (other opinions welcome!). I would consider a Cadillac CTS, but it seems only marginally more powerful, and not much of a step up. Any BMW or AUDI is out, out, out--they are dull dull dull. Don't even mention Japanese cars.
Next is exhaust. The 2.25" pipe from the catalytic converter is squeezed down to 1.5" on only the V-6 models. The Borla cat-back system restores the entire system to 2.25", eliminates sharp bends, adds less restrictive mufflers and an "X-Box" instead of the two resonators. These two mods should be good for at least a 10hp increase, as the 2002 is rated 220hp with it's new air box and just less restrictive mufflers.
I agree, the CTS is not really a step up. The first year of the CTS is crippled by the use of the old Opel engine. Next year the new Caddy engine debuts in the CTS and that's supposed to be more impressive. Sometime later in the year, the Infiniti G35 with six-speed and 260hp/260 lbs torque will debut. This is the most anticipated manual in many years.
Anyway, the question... Has anybody had a problem with the moonroof failing to retract the whole way when you hold the switch down? Mine typically closes about 95% of the way, and then something starts sticking. I have to let go of the switch and jog it a few times to get it to close the last little bit. I'm going in for an oil change and I'll have them look at it, because I'm nervous I'll forget sometime (you can't tell visually from the inside that it isn't closed) or somebody else will be driving the car and not realize it, and I'll end up having my interior get soaked.
Drove into Manhattan yesterday from here in Fairfield county, with 3 passengers who all marveled at the comfort and performance. On two occasions though they were flustered by the trunk lid though, when it refused to latch. Anyway, I'm always pleasantly surprised by my LS in the city, but I guess I shouldn't be. It can easily jockey with the hordes of yellow Crown Vics, it's a good Avenue cruiser, and it draws looks.
About ten miles out, saw a BMW (5 series) coming up a little too fast behind me just as I hit some 30 mph curves. Forgot the brakes, dropped the SST down a couple notches, and lets just say he didn't "grow" in my mirror.
I don't know what your roads are like, but I grew up in Michigan's UP. We had lots of room on the sides of the road to accomodate plowed snow in the winter. That hasn't been my experience in either Kentucky or Virginia since then, and sometimes it seems they built the roads around some of these 300 year old oaks that virtually touch the pavement. The other difference here is that we don't have that cushion between pavement and treeline to see the four legged vermin with antlers. They step directly from the underbrush onto the roadway.
Guess I need to find some better roads, save the adventuresome stuff for daylight hours, and recognize that I don't have to play games with BMWs even if I can.
cwesley
llsoc charter member
Of course, I just had to "blow out the cobwebs" a couple of times. I'll give the guy in the Neon an "E" for effort for attempting to race me!
That is one thing I've noticed with this car, it does prompt suprise challenges from those drivers that you would least expect it! (I don't tailgate, etc. to provoke it, either...)
I put many miles on my cars before selling them (usually a minimum of 175,000 miles) and have never added fluid (at least in the past 15 years). Don't even change it, just run them and have never had to do any maintenance on the transmissions.
Just a quick check to see if I should be concerned since the warranty will be gone in a couple of months.
randatola, I've had the same problem on rare occasions, and believe others have as well. But too rare to be able to duplicate it for the dealer, and the switch always works fine when it's pushed all the way back to "express open".
tlahaye, yes, you DO have to play games with BMWs. I think it's in the owner's manual, or warranty requirements, or something.
Scott
LLSOC Member
Thanks for the tip. I bought my car used with 32K miles, and while it appears to be well maintained, I want to be sure it is going forward. One thing that impresses me in the posts I read on this site is the active interest in routine maintenance. This is true even though I perceive many LS drivers lease their cars. An interest in maintaining a car you won't "own" past the warranty period indicates a fundamental respect for the machinery.
This is really a Mark question. I understand there are shops that drain and refill transmissions, replacing maybe half the fluid. Others actually flush and I believe pump out the torque converter (or claim to anyway). Costs twice as much. Would you recommend I drive 50 miles (DC metro traffic, so not the best of drives) to get the so-called premium service for this transmission?
What does the recommended service entail in terms of screens, filters, etc?
http://home.attbi.com/~mjm-gru/2003_bmw_5ser.jpg
The way it is done it will change about 95% of the fluid, including the fluid in the torque converter. Most places use a machine that connects into a cooler line. As the old fluid is pumped out new fluid is pumped into the other end of the cooler line. This fluid is straight from the torque converter, so it is getting it's fluid changed, too.
I do not believe it is necessary to drop the pan and change the filter. Ford does not recommend a filter change for the life of the transmission.
I have opened some VERY high mileage filters and didn't see any reason why they needed to be changed. If the filter is plugged enough to restrict the flow the transmission has already failed.
Mark
The service tech asked, "How many miles are on it?" I said, "14K". He replied, "Wait until 30K, and save your money". I'm just used to doing it annually, regardless of mileage.
The question I ask is: why?
My LS lease expires in May. As I look at the numbers it appears that the residual value I will pay will be considerably less than the Edmunds TMV for a used LS, even less than the trade-in value.
As I recall, the residual for the 2000 LS I bought was 63%. But since the residual was figured on MSRP, and the price I payed was $200 over invoice, the actual residual value was higher than the quoted.
The way I look at this, I would have been better off if I just payed cash--but not a lot better. As I computed it the discounted net cost of leasing instead of purchasing was about $600 in 2000 dollars.
Am I thinking about this incorrectly?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1807560403&r=0&t=0
going to the dealer soon...uhgggg
Kevin
I know this has been a common problem with early 2000 models and after 2 years of ownership I was hoping it wasn't going to happen to me.
I have not read any posts in a while on this problem. I believe it is caused by a poor quality part in the heater unit installed in the seat.
Is there a TSB on this problem? What has to be done at the dealer to repair the seat? Would it be anything else other then this defective part? The button on the dash still lights up and shuts off after the normal time.
I just picked up a 2001 LS service CD on ebay for $9.99 plus $4 shipping. Mine is a 2000 but there weren't any significant changes.
It will be interesting to see how the 2003 S-type V6 manual sells here.
Bruno
LLSOC member
John
LLSOC member
Let me know..
Regards,
V.
Yes, two parts should be heating, the butt and the back. When mine failed, it was intermittent whether it worked at all or just the bottom seemed to work. Most of the heat is felt at the bottom but there should be some heat towards the middle/lower back also.
Chuck