Today I took a relatively long road trip and discovered even more bad stuff about my car. Yes, the old rattles are still there but the bad highways caused some new noises: -Over sharp bumps there is very loud cracking noise coming from the side edge of the back window: I was just waiting for the window to shatter and blow inside.
-Over a very long stretch of freshly roughed-up pavement that the surface has been ground off, the roof made resonating buzzes and creaks like the car shell was twisting severely.
-Front end is now starting to shake and vibrate a little more and I can feel a vibration when coming to a stop from speed. Wheels or badyears?
-I think the door seals are bad because I could hear wind buffeting like when the window is down on while moving--but everything was closed up.
Is it just me, or does it sound like I got one of the bad cars that came off the line? I wish mine was as tight, solid, and problem-free like almost everyone else on this board.
tictac3 & rogor2k- I too experiance a rear driver's side door lock that refuses to unlock fully. When you press the keyfob button or the front power unlock button it will only come up part way and you must reach inside to finish pulling it up. I think mine does it in all types of weather but probably more often when it's cold. This was one of the items I informed the dealer about but of course all I got was "Could not duplicate" from the service manager. If someone finds a fix please post it so I can inform the dealer (I always thought the dealer would inform the customer of a fix--not the other way around. Well, what can you expect?)
At the local auto show I tried to speak with a Chrysler rep. from the 5-star dealer I took the car to twice about some of the issues but everytime I got near him he walked away.
Also, here are some suggestions for Chrysler: -The 17" rims need a 60-series tire to help with the harshness over sharp, rutted highways. -A few interior bag hooks or nets conveniantly placed would be nice (other than the close hangers) -A power sunshade for the front and rear windows. The rear could be used anytime and the front could raise with the touch of a button, and lower with either the push of a button or when the car is shifted from park. This would provide a good sun block rather than using one of those big carboard contraptions. -Incorporate a strut tower brace and some other body reinforments to boost rigidity. -Give the front seats a power lumbar support that you can actually feel.
Some of youe issues: Vibrations coming to a stop could be the brakes/rotors
The one rattle at the rear door window could be a loose piece of molding. I had this noise on mine, turned out the black piece near the bottom right side of the window was a little loose. Dealer fixed. No noise now.
Door seals are only bad if you feel, or hear wind comming into the 300M's interior. If you hear it, it will be a high piched whistle. A good test, is to crank your AC, or heat depending what's the weather by you. Close all doors, & feel around the doors. You will feel the air coming out.
The 300M does have a strut tower brace. A very good one for that matter. It's the black metal piece in the engine that attaches to each strut tower.
My heart goes out to you, man. It's very frustrating to think you have the only lemon in a basket of cherries. I had (still have, actually) a 99 Galant that shuddered when accelerating, brake problems, and suspension problems. The dealer replaced the gorfanobs and whositnots in the front suspension (under a service advisory) but "couldn't duplicate" the other issues. I had the brakes in 5 or 6 times, and the best I can tell they just turned the rotors and sent me back on my way. I finally got them to REPLACE the rotors instead of just turning the warping out of them, but the problem keeps coming back. I just went in for a normal brake job at 30,000 miles and they did it all for free. Up until THAT visit everything was a tooth pull and I considered leaving the car on the street with the keys in it.
I would suggest trying different dealers, especially 5* guys. Someone will take an interest and make this car right. It sounds like your current dealership is growing tired of you (and you of them) so maybe going elsewhere and sharing your history (I really WANT to love this fine car of yours, but...) might help. Good luck!
oh...one more thing. My Galant has ants. Go find that one in a service manual.
It's been almost 5 months since I've been able to zaino my 300M. I don't have a garage and the temperature and weather here in new england have been uncooperative all winter. It held up for about 2 months, but I finally broke down and started using a all-cloth car wash (no flames please... I think that the touchless washes don't work very well and don't like using the brushes at the self-wash place, so I'll just use some Z-5 in the spring if I have any swirls). The zaino died and I could no longer see the trademark tiny beads running down my hood. I can't wait for my car to truly shine again, but don't relish having to go through the Dawn wax-stripping and multi-step initial process again.... Thank god we're finally buying a house with a garage in a few weeks...
I think someone was asking about oil changes. I have been using Mobil 1 every 4000 to 5500 miles since the first change. But have just been taking the dealer filter (not sure what they use), so that probably negates any advantage to the Mobil 1. Whenever I go into the dealer, the girl at the service desk always looks at me funny when I tell her I have my own oil for them to use. It's like no one else cares enough to give their car's the very best ;-)
OFF TOPIC: my wife's Saturn is coming to the end of it's lease and we are shopping for her next car. She wants the Accord EX (it's just too damn bland and everyone and their dog has one), but I'm trying to push her into a Sable LS Premium... Anyone have experiences with either car? Sorry again for the off topic, but I figure you folks must have similar tastes and might be able to steer us in the right direction.
hey is anyone else having problems playing burned cd's in the in dash changer??? some cd's i burn play fine and some come up error, really ticks me off...i burn them all the same, any advice as to which program to use or type of cd-r's to use.
I haven't had any errors yet, but cheap CD-R's seem to me to skip more over bumps. I seem to get better results using Memorex Music CD-R's, which cost about a buck apiece if you buy them on a spindle (I carry a 24 CD wallet in my console anyway, instead of using up space with jewel boxes). I use Adaptec's Easy CD Creator software, v.4, which came with my new computer. Only problem I've experienced is that the CD hangs after the end of the last song, and I have to manually change to another CD, which CD's I burned using v.3 on my old computer never did.
You might also check whether there is a procedure in your software to first copy the original music CD to your hard drive, then burn the CD-R from your hard drive. This is supposed to help prevent buffer overruns (underruns?); I don't know if it would also address the error problems you're having. Do your CD-R's play on your home stereo but not in your M?
Race, I use SONY CD-R (CDQ-74N) and Easy Creator Vers. 4 Deluxe from Adaptec to burn CD's and they work every time. I'm not sure if you can use CD-RW Discs in the car CD player but maybe it states in the owners manual.
I suspect that nearly every car is going to resonate going over roto-milled asphalt.
Your door seal noise isn't new; you complained about that two months ago. Have you asked your dealer to fix them? I visually noticed that my door seals/trim weren't fitting tightly at the upper corners of the B pillar, and my dealer replaced them without any problem.
The only problem I'd had with a burend cd, is when one burned cd finished, the player did not automatically switch to the next cd. I think it was an error of mine in the way the cd was burned. I'm just learning how to burn these things... other than that, previous cd's burned by friends have had no problems playing whatsoever.
Most CD Players can play CD-R. Certain dye colors in the CD-Rs make it easier to read and some harder. Try changing CD-R types with another color (green vs blue, gold or silver vs colored). I've had the best luck with the Gold colored Imations. The tightness of the beam focus and the wavelength of laser light used are factors. I do not know how to find out who is using what laser type. Experimentation seems to be the best way.
Check out this link. TechTV said it's one of the best info sources on the web for CD-R.
Most CD Players can play CD-R. Certain dye colors in the CD-Rs make it easier to read and some harder. Try changing CD-R types with another color (green vs blue, gold or silver vs colored). I've had the best luck with the Gold colored Imations. The tightness of the beam focus and the wavelength of laser light used are factors. I do not know how to find out who is using what laser type. Experimentation seems to be the best way.
Check out this link. TechTV said it's one of the best info sources on the web for CD-R.
they work fine in my home players that is how i test them before taking them to the car. even the old ones that use to work fine are giving me problems sometimes the error message comes up so i skip through all the discs and come back to the one with the error and it starts playing fine ((
Why not consider the all-net Sebring LXi? My wife got one in Nov and loves it. Great style and performance, and the price is less than a Honda Accord. Ours listed for 25K with all the options, and we were able to buy it at dealer tissue invoice. Chrysler is now offering a $1K rebate.
Race, since the CD's you burn work on your home stereo, I'm guessing that it's not a matter of your software nor of burning direct (as opposed to burning from your hard drive). I'd guess it's just the blank CD-R's you use. There's an FAQ on the Durango Club site that expresses some pretty firm opinions on this. The URL, pulled out of their frames, is: http://www.durangoclub.com/faq/Operational.html
Just click on the fourth question down on the left side.
I use two different systems, one at home and one at work, to make the burned DC's I play in my M. My home system has a 12X TDK VeloCD CD-RW drive, and I burn a mix of TDK blanks, and CompUSA generics (they usually have a 50 pack free after rebate at any given time), both rated at 12X. I am using aero burning ROM v. 5.0.1.9 (FANTASTIC! Came with the VeloCD) to convert my MP3's into audio files and burn them in one step. At work, I have a 6X Memorex CD-RW drive, and I use MP3 CD Maker (download anywhere) to convert the MP3's to audio tracks . I use AudioCatalyst to rip MP3's on both systems. I have also started using Prime Peripherals brand CD's recently because I bought 2 200 count packs (16X rated) on a free after rebate special. I ahve about 600 blanks so I'm set for a while. I have also used Kodak gold CD's as well. I have never had a problem with any CD I have ever made for myself or anyone else. The advice to look for a silver or gold (vs. green or blue-especially dark blue) is good. CDR drives use an infrared (850 +/- nm) wavelength laser. infrared is just above red in the spectrum, and blue absorbs red like gangbusters so CD's with a blue RECORDING surface are most likely to cause problems. Silver/gold reflect the most light and hence have the best chance of working. Three suggestions I can add. One, make sure your drive doesn't exceed the X rating of the discs. Sometimes, this can cause problems. Two, make sure you're nor burning the CD too fast. My VeloCD burns at full speed and has a buffer so that I can work in other programs at the same time with guaranteed good results of my burn. My work systyem will only RELIABLY burn audio tracks at 1X. My VeloCD was made for ripping and burning hence the higher speed. Three, unless you have a VeloCd or another CDR with "Burn-Proof" technology, don't do ANYTHING else on your system while you burn and disable your screensaver too. Other system activity during a burn on a regular CDR can result in "coasters", CD's or tracks that skip or won't play at all. Good luck!
I have, & listen to alot of Burned CD's. I have some old ones, like 5 years, most new ones. Different types of disks. I have also gotten the ERROR message a few times. I ejected the disk, put it back in, & then it played fine. I have 3 different DC burners, I use all of them. For the last year, I have used nothing but Sony cd-r's. I also use Easy CD Creator deluxe 4.1a. I think it's just a minor glich in the cd plyer. I can live with it.
fastdriver: thanks for the tip. I really didn't look forward to doing the Dawn stripping again.
cd-r problem: I've been using burned cd's for years in my cars. The only problem that I've come across with the 300M is that occasionally on cold damp mornings, the burned cds tend to skip easily, but I attribute this to possible condensation on th cd surface. I use Maxell CD-Rs, an HP-9300I CD-R/RW drive, and Musicmatch Jukebox as the burning software (it lets you burn directly from MP3s)
rklass: I looked at the sebring, and personally I like it, but my wife thinks that it looks too much like the 300M and wants something different (although she loves the 300M). So we're down to the Accord EX and Sebring LS
My car does share a problem with yours - the rear driver's door often doesn't unlock completely, and it's worse when it's cold. It's exactly as you described.
I do have a few quibbles with the car (mine is a 2000 model):
* The dash vents don't adjust from side-to-side as much as I feel they should. I don't usually want them pointed directly at me except in the summer. You can't point the side vent toward the side window to defog it, for example. It's not a huge deal, but I wish it were better.
* It bugs me that the gas cap door doesn't lock.
* The dash reflects too much in the windshield. Polarized sunglasses fix this on bright days, when the problem is the worst.
* There's too much distortion in the top part of the windshield, where us tall guys look through, but I don't really notice it often anymore. I guess I've adapted.
* Even with PHP, there's a bit more body roll than I'd like, considering how taut the suspension is otherwise. I think this is probably a minority opinion.
* The steering would be better if it weren't boosted as much. The PHP has higher effort than the the cars without it, but I'd like it better with a little more steering "feel." My wife might disagree.
That sounds like a lot of stuff, but they aren't major issues for me, just some things I think could be better.
On the plus side, there have been no other problems, nor any squeaks or rattles. It's the most "solid" car I've ever had in this regard. Despite the points above, I love the car. I'm sorry you are having so many problems with yours.
That's my only real beef with my car. I'm 6'4" and there are times when I think I need new glasses because of the distortion thru the front windows. Anybody know if there is a replacement windshield that might eliminate those things?
It might take some adapting, but you can try what I do. I'm only 6'2" ish, but I have really LONG arms. Instead of my seat back being straight up, I have it leaned back a good bit. Try it and see if it helps. It doesn't take much to get your eye level below that top edge of the windshield. I also have the back of the seat bottom at the lowest setting, and the seat front tilted up a bit. That has the added benefit of taking a lot of the compression force off my spine and that helps the fatigue factor a LOT!
Has anyone experienced the voltage warning light (a little battery below the seat belt light)coming on while driving? Mine will come on if I have been driving 75-100 miles. It doesn't come on until I hit this mileage, but then will stay on until the car is cooled down. My 5* checked it out, found nothing and reset the computer when it first occurred, but now 3 weeks later I drove about 90 miles and it came on again. I appreciate any input.
Thanks to all who suggested the Hunter GSP9700 Tire balance. After dealer balanced tires twice with no noticeable improvement, I went to local Tire Rack who had 3 units. Totally professional job. Had 2 bad Good years & 1 out of round wheel. They replaced tires N/C. Dealer ordered new wheel and center cap N/C.Big hassle, but was treated well by Tire Rack & Gurley- LeLeehrysler in Mishawaka, IN. HaHaven'toad tested at speed yet. Will advise if all is not cured.
I actually thought it was pretty funny! Is't a pretty old link so I had seen it before, but it's still good. Got me bigtime the first time I ever saw it too. If we can't laugh at ourselves, who can we laugh at?
Race-Did you go to the race Sunday? Pretty amazing finish, huh?!?! I ordered my Talladega tickets. Front row of the Talladega Tower package deal. Busch and Winston tickets so I'll be able to hit both days. Can't wait to see those Dodges run! Wish it were 300Ms going around those high baknks though!
took Lolita to the 5* today for a couple warranty repairs and also a tranny fluid change. Well they changed the fluid and filter--um--I mean half the fluid. They just drop the pan and let the rest stay in the tranny. So much for 5* service. I mentioned that it needs ATF-4 and he was telling me its $10 a quart. Whatever, I says just do it. I get the bill and I see ATF+3 on the bill--5 quarts at 3.25 per quart. I hope they didnt use the wrong fluid in my car. Do they make an ATF+3 or was it a misprint. The price was less than the $10 per quart I expected. Do all newer Chryslers take the same fluid or is it just the LH cars. Anyone know the facts on this. If they put in the wrong fluid I may ask that they do it over.
I had the engine hiss at about 1200-2000 rpm and they said they would replace the throttle body. So now I have to wait till the part comes in.
I mentioned the growling noise on low rpm's on a cold start and gave them the TSB#. they say they tightened the accessory belt, but I think I can still hear it. I will be able to tell better when the car is cold.
They are ordering a new wood grain dash trim piece as mine had a slight defect.
As far as the growing noise and the hiss noise, the 5* said they will perform the TSB's but reminded me that this car wasnt a caddy or a lexus and the noise may not disappear. Shouldnt the top of the line Chryler be free of hisses, growls and rumbles. I didnt want to hear him say my M is no Caddy--or--my M is no Lexus.
I did at least get a free loaner--a Jeep wagon--what a difference between the comforts of the M and that truck. Glad to get back in the M. They did at least wash and vacuum the M and it was very filty I must admit.
So now I have to wait for the Throttle body and the trim piece and then head back to the dealer to see if they can get rid of the hiss. Glad I didnt mention wind noise and window rubbing noises or he might have really given me the look and again start talking about the M not being a quiet Caddy.
Oh well, I still love Lolita , at least until she gets old and ugly-- ;-)
I requested a new key for the M as I lost one of my keys. I gave him the key numbers to make his life easier. Cost of the key--$22--PLUS $30 more to program it---you think I asked for an entire ignition key switch.
Hint: make an extra key before you lose one--its only about $15 if you go to a qualified locksmith but you have to bring both keys so they can program the new one--you cant program it with just one key.
I have a '96 Sable with the Duratech engine. It has just over 100k and the only repair I've done is the battery. It died after 5 years. It is our 4th Sable. We took it on a 2 week driving vacation last summer and the car performed flawlessly. That 200 horse motor likes to run. If the Lincoln LS that we bought wasn't in our budget, we would be driving a 2000 Sable LS now. The car is VERY comfortable. With the new moveable brake/accellerator pedal assembly, the perfect driving position should be easily achieved.
Ohhh man, I am fit to be tied for the night... I wanted to do the oil change for my new baby. (3 weeks) and while pulling it into the garage as I inched forward, I bumped a wooden shelf in the garage and bent the tip of the hood inwards, I got a rag and a pair of pliers and did the best I could to bring it back to life...... So, it's noticeable, but not terrible, when I have time/money I'll look into replacing the hood.. Maybe a shopping cart hit it. Hehe... THEN! After I got the oil out, I realize that the $5 an hour tech that put the oil filter on used a frickin' impact wrench to do the 3/4- 1 turn after contact... I spent 3 hours trying to get it off in that tiny space, I used filter wrenches, to no avail, no room to get the strap kind in there, so I had to drill holes in the filter and run a screwdriver through it and turn it like that, that took about an hour and eventually I got the damn thing off and the new one on.. If I could have gotten my hands on the guy that did that..................
Sigh........ Just wanted to tell of my horrible experiance and my flawed M now. =(
Bummer about the hood, Kevin. As for the oil change...I am at a loss to understand why anyone with a new car would want to change the oil himself. My 5* charges $23.95 for an oil change. I then have a receipt, in the event of a future problem, showing a proper oil change interval and there is no arguement that it was not done properly. While the car is in the lift, I have the wheels rotated. The above is done every 5,000 miles, and has worked for me over many years and cars.
What hiss at 1200-2000rpm? What does it sound like? I am getting a slight hiss type of noise at those rpm's. When I prees the gas slightly, it sounds like a small amount of air getting sucked through a small tube. Also, does everyones 300M's have a slight delay in the rpm vs acceleration curve? When I press the gas, the rpm's will go up as much as 1000 before the car will accelerate. And, Is everyones 300m's gas pedal lower then the brake pedal. I have been afriad to take it to the dealer for these issues. I don't want an answer like it's the exhaust system, or the ported airbox, or the Jet module. Thanks
rstilp - Yes, that Hunter system is wonderful - IF it is done by competent personnel. I had to have my tires on there three times over six months until it found two of my Michelin's were bad. My only advice is go during the day during the week, not on weekends. The first two times the "kids" didn't find anything wrong. This last time a self-proclamed 8 year veteran found the problems. It's going to set me back around $200 through their pro-rated replacement policy.
fuzzywuzzy - I I too noticed this lag, but rationalized it as the torque converter unlocking. Dunno.
easyrider300m / fuzzywuzzy - I notice a hiss too, but didn't think much about it. Many others have posted the same noise so I thought it was normal. Let us know what the new throttle body does for you / it.
If you haven't filled out the "Vibration and Shimmy Poll" yet on the Consummate 300M Pages web site, http://208.231.240.13/300m/sub3/frames_central.html , I hope you'll take a minute to do so (whether you have had problems or not!). The poll could provide useful information about this issue IF lots of folks fill it out. Just click on the link right under the car photo.
Easy-Be thankful. Keys down here are $75 from the dealer, and I have yet to find a locksmith that can reproduce it due to the chip. My oil change place also said that they normally only do a drain and replace on the tranny unless the customer requests a power flush (forgot their specific term) because very few want it done because it costs triple the regular service. Russ-After having changed my own oil for years in my Scirocco, I too am glad to pay the premium to have someone else do it. It costs about triple a do it yourself job, but I think it's worth the price. I also found that I don't dread it like when I did it myself, thus it's changed regularly, not "when I feel like it". The only thing that worries me about a quick change place doing it is that they're not really liable for problems. My wife's uncle had a new Toyota T-100 truck that he took in for it's first oil change. He left and made it 3 miles down the road. They had cross-threaded the oil plug and it popped out under pressure. He got a lawyer, after no help from the chain, and the lawyer said that based on the contract that he signed with them (that fine print on the back of the bill), he was out of luck! I go to the same place and they know me (they actually know the M. They huddle around and drool over it and just say "hi" briefly to me!!), so I feel that they are taking care of me. Fingers crossed!
redsmithy I've been in a lot of garages in my years and the Tire Rack in South Bend,IN is totally professional. I was a little apprehensive when-#1 I had to pay in advance for the balance and #2 when the kid came to me with one of my center covers in 2 pieces. It seems the clip had corroded and just snapped off. My dealer ordered me a new cap N/C so it mst b a common problem. By the way I msspelled my dealers name in the orig. message. Should give credit where crediti due; Should have been Gurley-Leep Chrysler in Mishawaka, IN.
General: Anybody have excessive lifter noise when starting engine? Later.
...at the Sean Puffy Combs trial footage on the network news the other night his lawyer, Johnnie Cochran was seen coming out of a 300M. Maybe he'll be in the chat rooms?? Y'all can ask him about how the search for Nicole's killer is going.
Comments
-Over sharp bumps there is very loud cracking noise coming from the side edge of the back window: I was just waiting for the window to shatter and blow inside.
-Over a very long stretch of freshly roughed-up pavement that the surface has been ground off, the roof made resonating buzzes and creaks like the car shell was twisting severely.
-Front end is now starting to shake and vibrate a little more and I can feel a vibration when coming to a stop from speed. Wheels or badyears?
-I think the door seals are bad because I could hear wind buffeting like when the window is down on while moving--but everything was closed up.
Is it just me, or does it sound like I got one of the bad cars that came off the line? I wish mine was as tight, solid, and problem-free like almost everyone else on this board.
tictac3 & rogor2k- I too experiance a rear driver's side door lock that refuses to unlock fully. When you press the keyfob button or the front power unlock button it will only come up part way and you must reach inside to finish pulling it up. I think mine does it in all types of weather but probably more often when it's cold. This was one of the items I informed the dealer about but of course all I got was "Could not duplicate" from the service manager. If someone finds a fix please post it so I can inform the dealer (I always thought the dealer would inform the customer of a fix--not the other way around. Well, what can you expect?)
At the local auto show I tried to speak with a Chrysler rep. from the 5-star dealer I took the car to twice about some of the issues but everytime I got near him he walked away.
Also, here are some suggestions for Chrysler:
-The 17" rims need a 60-series tire to help with the harshness over sharp, rutted highways.
-A few interior bag hooks or nets conveniantly placed would be nice (other than the close hangers)
-A power sunshade for the front and rear windows. The rear could be used anytime and the front could raise with the touch of a button, and lower with either the push of a button or when the car is shifted from park. This would provide a good sun block rather than using one of those big carboard contraptions.
-Incorporate a strut tower brace and some other body reinforments to boost rigidity.
-Give the front seats a power lumbar support that you can actually feel.
Well, better go for now! I will be back!
Vibrations coming to a stop could be the brakes/rotors
The one rattle at the rear door window could be a loose piece of molding. I had this noise on mine, turned out the black piece near the bottom right side of the window was a little loose. Dealer fixed. No noise now.
Door seals are only bad if you feel, or hear wind comming into the 300M's interior. If you hear it, it will be a high piched whistle. A good test, is to crank your AC, or heat depending what's the weather by you. Close all doors, & feel around the doors. You will feel the air coming out.
The 300M does have a strut tower brace. A very good one for that matter. It's the black metal piece in the engine that attaches to each strut tower.
I would suggest trying different dealers, especially 5* guys. Someone will take an interest and make this car right. It sounds like your current dealership is growing tired of you (and you of them) so maybe going elsewhere and sharing your history (I really WANT to love this fine car of yours, but...) might help. Good luck!
oh...one more thing. My Galant has ants. Go find that one in a service manual.
-M
I think someone was asking about oil changes. I have been using Mobil 1 every 4000 to 5500 miles since the first change. But have just been taking the dealer filter (not sure what they use), so that probably negates any advantage to the Mobil 1. Whenever I go into the dealer, the girl at the service desk always looks at me funny when I tell her I have my own oil for them to use. It's like no one else cares enough to give their car's the very best ;-)
OFF TOPIC: my wife's Saturn is coming to the end of it's lease and we are shopping for her next car. She wants the Accord EX (it's just too damn bland and everyone and their dog has one), but I'm trying to push her into a Sable LS Premium... Anyone have experiences with either car? Sorry again for the off topic, but I figure you folks must have similar tastes and might be able to steer us in the right direction.
You might also check whether there is a procedure in your software to first copy the original music CD to your hard drive, then burn the CD-R from your hard drive. This is supposed to help prevent buffer overruns (underruns?); I don't know if it would also address the error problems you're having. Do your CD-R's play on your home stereo but not in your M?
Your door seal noise isn't new; you complained about that two months ago. Have you asked your dealer to fix them? I visually noticed that my door seals/trim weren't fitting tightly at the upper corners of the B pillar, and my dealer replaced them without any problem.
Check out this link. TechTV said it's one of the best info sources on the web for CD-R.
http://www.cdrfaq.org/
Check out this link. TechTV said it's one of the best info sources on the web for CD-R.
http://www.cdrfaq.org/
My wife got one in Nov and loves it. Great style and performance, and the price is less than a Honda Accord.
Ours listed for 25K with all the options, and we were able to buy it at dealer tissue invoice. Chrysler is now offering a $1K rebate.
Just click on the fourth question down on the left side.
You don't have to do the Dawn stripping thing again! If you want, just do the Z-1 and the Z-2/Z-5 again. In no time, that Zaino shine will be back!
fastdriver
http://www.300mclub.org
cd-r problem: I've been using burned cd's for years in my cars. The only problem that I've come across with the 300M is that occasionally on cold damp mornings, the burned cds tend to skip easily, but I attribute this to possible condensation on th cd surface. I use Maxell CD-Rs, an HP-9300I CD-R/RW drive, and Musicmatch Jukebox as the burning software (it lets you burn directly from MP3s)
rklass: I looked at the sebring, and personally I like it, but my wife thinks that it looks too much like the 300M and wants something different (although she loves the 300M). So we're down to the Accord EX and Sebring LS
I do have a few quibbles with the car (mine is a 2000 model):
* The dash vents don't adjust from side-to-side as much as I feel they should. I don't usually want them pointed directly at me except in the summer. You can't point the side vent toward the side window to defog it, for example. It's not a huge deal, but I wish it were better.
* It bugs me that the gas cap door doesn't lock.
* The dash reflects too much in the windshield. Polarized sunglasses fix this on bright days, when the problem is the worst.
* There's too much distortion in the top part of the windshield, where us tall guys look through, but I don't really notice it often anymore. I guess I've adapted.
* Even with PHP, there's a bit more body roll than I'd like, considering how taut the suspension is otherwise. I think this is probably a minority opinion.
* The steering would be better if it weren't boosted as much. The PHP has higher effort than the the cars without it, but I'd like it better with a little more steering "feel." My wife might disagree.
That sounds like a lot of stuff, but they aren't major issues for me, just some things I think could be better.
On the plus side, there have been no other problems, nor any squeaks or rattles. It's the most "solid" car I've ever had in this regard. Despite the points above, I love the car. I'm sorry you are having so many problems with yours.
-MMCCCM
Look and see what the FBI has on you !
http://www.policeguide.com/cgi-bin/criminal-search
I appreciate any input.
Don't waste your time. I wish people would stay on topic and not post such links. :<(
Race-Did you go to the race Sunday? Pretty amazing finish, huh?!?! I ordered my Talladega tickets. Front row of the Talladega Tower package deal. Busch and Winston tickets so I'll be able to hit both days. Can't wait to see those Dodges run! Wish it were 300Ms going around those high baknks though!
I had the engine hiss at about 1200-2000 rpm and they said they would replace the throttle body. So now I have to wait till the part comes in.
I mentioned the growling noise on low rpm's on a cold start and gave them the TSB#. they say they tightened the accessory belt, but I think I can still hear it. I will be able to tell better when the car is cold.
They are ordering a new wood grain dash trim piece as mine had a slight defect.
As far as the growing noise and the hiss noise, the 5* said they will perform the TSB's but reminded me that this car wasnt a caddy or a lexus and the noise may not disappear. Shouldnt the top of the line Chryler be free of hisses, growls and rumbles. I didnt want to hear him say my M is no Caddy--or--my M is no Lexus.
I did at least get a free loaner--a Jeep wagon--what a difference between the comforts of the M and that truck. Glad to get back in the M. They did at least wash and vacuum the M and it was very filty I must admit.
So now I have to wait for the Throttle body and the trim piece and then head back to the dealer to see if they can get rid of the hiss. Glad I didnt mention wind noise and window rubbing noises or he might have really given me the look and again start talking about the M not being a quiet Caddy.
Oh well, I still love Lolita , at least until she gets old and ugly-- ;-)
Easyrider300M
Hint: make an extra key before you lose one--its only about $15 if you go to a qualified locksmith but you have to bring both keys so they can program the new one--you cant program it with just one key.
Did I miss it due to my tardiness?
-m
The chatroom is alive and well if you have an alternate way to get in...
-m
but in an unlikely case it happens again
I will keep my 'way' of getting in publically (and freely) accessible at http://www.yow.com/~mjm/jIRC/chat3.html
It might be a little slow to download (about 75K), but if you have IE4 or Netscape 4 or higher (or anything that supports JAVA), it will work...
-m
I wanted to do the oil change for my new baby. (3 weeks) and while pulling it into the garage as I inched forward, I bumped a wooden shelf in the garage and bent the tip of the hood inwards, I got a rag and a pair of pliers and did the best I could to bring it back to life...... So, it's noticeable, but not terrible, when I have time/money I'll look into replacing the hood.. Maybe a shopping cart hit it.
THEN! After I got the oil out, I realize that the $5 an hour tech that put the oil filter on used a frickin' impact wrench to do the 3/4- 1 turn after contact... I spent 3 hours trying to get it off in that tiny space, I used filter wrenches, to no avail, no room to get the strap kind in there, so I had to drill holes in the filter and run a screwdriver through it and turn it like that, that took about an hour and eventually I got the damn thing off and the new one on.. If I could have gotten my hands on the guy that did that..................
Sigh........ Just wanted to tell of my horrible experiance and my flawed M now. =(
As for the oil change...I am at a loss to understand why anyone with a new car would want to change the oil himself.
My 5* charges $23.95 for an oil change. I then have a receipt, in the event of a future problem, showing a proper oil change interval and there is no arguement that it was not done properly.
While the car is in the lift, I have the wheels rotated.
The above is done every 5,000 miles, and has worked for me over many years and cars.
Also, does everyones 300M's have a slight delay in the rpm vs acceleration curve? When I press the gas, the rpm's will go up as much as 1000 before the car will accelerate. And, Is everyones 300m's gas pedal lower then the brake pedal. I have been afriad to take it to the dealer for these issues. I don't want an answer like it's the exhaust system, or the ported airbox, or the Jet module. Thanks
fuzzywuzzy - I I too noticed this lag, but rationalized it as the torque converter unlocking. Dunno.
easyrider300m / fuzzywuzzy - I notice a hiss too, but didn't think much about it. Many others have posted the same noise so I thought it was normal. Let us know what the new throttle body does for you / it.
Russ-After having changed my own oil for years in my Scirocco, I too am glad to pay the premium to have someone else do it. It costs about triple a do it yourself job, but I think it's worth the price. I also found that I don't dread it like when I did it myself, thus it's changed regularly, not "when I feel like it". The only thing that worries me about a quick change place doing it is that they're not really liable for problems. My wife's uncle had a new Toyota T-100 truck that he took in for it's first oil change. He left and made it 3 miles down the road. They had cross-threaded the oil plug and it popped out under pressure. He got a lawyer, after no help from the chain, and the lawyer said that based on the contract that he signed with them (that fine print on the back of the bill), he was out of luck! I go to the same place and they know me (they actually know the M. They huddle around and drool over it and just say "hi" briefly to me!!), so I feel that they are taking care of me. Fingers crossed!
I've been in a lot of garages in my years and the Tire Rack in South Bend,IN is totally professional. I was a little apprehensive when-#1 I had to pay in advance for the balance and #2 when the kid came to me with one of my center covers in 2 pieces. It seems the clip had corroded and just snapped off. My dealer ordered me a new cap N/C so it mst b a common problem. By the way I msspelled my dealers name in the orig. message. Should give credit where crediti due; Should have been Gurley-Leep Chrysler in Mishawaka, IN.
General: Anybody have excessive lifter noise when starting engine?
Later.
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