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Comments
-Over sharp bumps there is very loud cracking noise coming from the side edge of the back window: I was just waiting for the window to shatter and blow inside.
-Over a very long stretch of freshly roughed-up pavement that the surface has been ground off, the roof made resonating buzzes and creaks like the car shell was twisting severely.
-Front end is now starting to shake and vibrate a little more and I can feel a vibration when coming to a stop from speed. Wheels or badyears?
-I think the door seals are bad because I could hear wind buffeting like when the window is down on while moving--but everything was closed up.
Is it just me, or does it sound like I got one of the bad cars that came off the line? I wish mine was as tight, solid, and problem-free like almost everyone else on this board.
tictac3 & rogor2k- I too experiance a rear driver's side door lock that refuses to unlock fully. When you press the keyfob button or the front power unlock button it will only come up part way and you must reach inside to finish pulling it up. I think mine does it in all types of weather but probably more often when it's cold. This was one of the items I informed the dealer about but of course all I got was "Could not duplicate" from the service manager. If someone finds a fix please post it so I can inform the dealer (I always thought the dealer would inform the customer of a fix--not the other way around. Well, what can you expect?)
At the local auto show I tried to speak with a Chrysler rep. from the 5-star dealer I took the car to twice about some of the issues but everytime I got near him he walked away.
Also, here are some suggestions for Chrysler:
-The 17" rims need a 60-series tire to help with the harshness over sharp, rutted highways.
-A few interior bag hooks or nets conveniantly placed would be nice (other than the close hangers)
-A power sunshade for the front and rear windows. The rear could be used anytime and the front could raise with the touch of a button, and lower with either the push of a button or when the car is shifted from park. This would provide a good sun block rather than using one of those big carboard contraptions.
-Incorporate a strut tower brace and some other body reinforments to boost rigidity.
-Give the front seats a power lumbar support that you can actually feel.
Well, better go for now! I will be back!
Vibrations coming to a stop could be the brakes/rotors
The one rattle at the rear door window could be a loose piece of molding. I had this noise on mine, turned out the black piece near the bottom right side of the window was a little loose. Dealer fixed. No noise now.
Door seals are only bad if you feel, or hear wind comming into the 300M's interior. If you hear it, it will be a high piched whistle. A good test, is to crank your AC, or heat depending what's the weather by you. Close all doors, & feel around the doors. You will feel the air coming out.
The 300M does have a strut tower brace. A very good one for that matter. It's the black metal piece in the engine that attaches to each strut tower.
I would suggest trying different dealers, especially 5* guys. Someone will take an interest and make this car right. It sounds like your current dealership is growing tired of you (and you of them) so maybe going elsewhere and sharing your history (I really WANT to love this fine car of yours, but...) might help. Good luck!
oh...one more thing. My Galant has ants. Go find that one in a service manual.
-M
I think someone was asking about oil changes. I have been using Mobil 1 every 4000 to 5500 miles since the first change. But have just been taking the dealer filter (not sure what they use), so that probably negates any advantage to the Mobil 1. Whenever I go into the dealer, the girl at the service desk always looks at me funny when I tell her I have my own oil for them to use. It's like no one else cares enough to give their car's the very best ;-)
OFF TOPIC: my wife's Saturn is coming to the end of it's lease and we are shopping for her next car. She wants the Accord EX (it's just too damn bland and everyone and their dog has one), but I'm trying to push her into a Sable LS Premium... Anyone have experiences with either car? Sorry again for the off topic, but I figure you folks must have similar tastes and might be able to steer us in the right direction.
You might also check whether there is a procedure in your software to first copy the original music CD to your hard drive, then burn the CD-R from your hard drive. This is supposed to help prevent buffer overruns (underruns?); I don't know if it would also address the error problems you're having. Do your CD-R's play on your home stereo but not in your M?
Your door seal noise isn't new; you complained about that two months ago. Have you asked your dealer to fix them? I visually noticed that my door seals/trim weren't fitting tightly at the upper corners of the B pillar, and my dealer replaced them without any problem.
Check out this link. TechTV said it's one of the best info sources on the web for CD-R.
http://www.cdrfaq.org/
Check out this link. TechTV said it's one of the best info sources on the web for CD-R.
http://www.cdrfaq.org/
My wife got one in Nov and loves it. Great style and performance, and the price is less than a Honda Accord.
Ours listed for 25K with all the options, and we were able to buy it at dealer tissue invoice. Chrysler is now offering a $1K rebate.
Just click on the fourth question down on the left side.
You don't have to do the Dawn stripping thing again! If you want, just do the Z-1 and the Z-2/Z-5 again. In no time, that Zaino shine will be back!
fastdriver
http://www.300mclub.org
cd-r problem: I've been using burned cd's for years in my cars. The only problem that I've come across with the 300M is that occasionally on cold damp mornings, the burned cds tend to skip easily, but I attribute this to possible condensation on th cd surface. I use Maxell CD-Rs, an HP-9300I CD-R/RW drive, and Musicmatch Jukebox as the burning software (it lets you burn directly from MP3s)
rklass: I looked at the sebring, and personally I like it, but my wife thinks that it looks too much like the 300M and wants something different (although she loves the 300M). So we're down to the Accord EX and Sebring LS
I do have a few quibbles with the car (mine is a 2000 model):
* The dash vents don't adjust from side-to-side as much as I feel they should. I don't usually want them pointed directly at me except in the summer. You can't point the side vent toward the side window to defog it, for example. It's not a huge deal, but I wish it were better.
* It bugs me that the gas cap door doesn't lock.
* The dash reflects too much in the windshield. Polarized sunglasses fix this on bright days, when the problem is the worst.
* There's too much distortion in the top part of the windshield, where us tall guys look through, but I don't really notice it often anymore. I guess I've adapted.
* Even with PHP, there's a bit more body roll than I'd like, considering how taut the suspension is otherwise. I think this is probably a minority opinion.
* The steering would be better if it weren't boosted as much. The PHP has higher effort than the the cars without it, but I'd like it better with a little more steering "feel." My wife might disagree.
That sounds like a lot of stuff, but they aren't major issues for me, just some things I think could be better.
On the plus side, there have been no other problems, nor any squeaks or rattles. It's the most "solid" car I've ever had in this regard. Despite the points above, I love the car. I'm sorry you are having so many problems with yours.
-MMCCCM
Look and see what the FBI has on you !
http://www.policeguide.com/cgi-bin/criminal-search
I appreciate any input.
Don't waste your time. I wish people would stay on topic and not post such links. :<(
Race-Did you go to the race Sunday? Pretty amazing finish, huh?!?! I ordered my Talladega tickets. Front row of the Talladega Tower package deal. Busch and Winston tickets so I'll be able to hit both days. Can't wait to see those Dodges run! Wish it were 300Ms going around those high baknks though!
I had the engine hiss at about 1200-2000 rpm and they said they would replace the throttle body. So now I have to wait till the part comes in.
I mentioned the growling noise on low rpm's on a cold start and gave them the TSB#. they say they tightened the accessory belt, but I think I can still hear it. I will be able to tell better when the car is cold.
They are ordering a new wood grain dash trim piece as mine had a slight defect.
As far as the growing noise and the hiss noise, the 5* said they will perform the TSB's but reminded me that this car wasnt a caddy or a lexus and the noise may not disappear. Shouldnt the top of the line Chryler be free of hisses, growls and rumbles. I didnt want to hear him say my M is no Caddy--or--my M is no Lexus.
I did at least get a free loaner--a Jeep wagon--what a difference between the comforts of the M and that truck. Glad to get back in the M. They did at least wash and vacuum the M and it was very filty I must admit.
So now I have to wait for the Throttle body and the trim piece and then head back to the dealer to see if they can get rid of the hiss. Glad I didnt mention wind noise and window rubbing noises or he might have really given me the look and again start talking about the M not being a quiet Caddy.
Oh well, I still love Lolita , at least until she gets old and ugly-- ;-)
Easyrider300M
Hint: make an extra key before you lose one--its only about $15 if you go to a qualified locksmith but you have to bring both keys so they can program the new one--you cant program it with just one key.
Did I miss it due to my tardiness?
-m
The chatroom is alive and well if you have an alternate way to get in...
-m
but in an unlikely case it happens again
I will keep my 'way' of getting in publically (and freely) accessible at http://www.yow.com/~mjm/jIRC/chat3.html
It might be a little slow to download (about 75K), but if you have IE4 or Netscape 4 or higher (or anything that supports JAVA), it will work...
-m
I wanted to do the oil change for my new baby. (3 weeks) and while pulling it into the garage as I inched forward, I bumped a wooden shelf in the garage and bent the tip of the hood inwards, I got a rag and a pair of pliers and did the best I could to bring it back to life...... So, it's noticeable, but not terrible, when I have time/money I'll look into replacing the hood.. Maybe a shopping cart hit it.
THEN! After I got the oil out, I realize that the $5 an hour tech that put the oil filter on used a frickin' impact wrench to do the 3/4- 1 turn after contact... I spent 3 hours trying to get it off in that tiny space, I used filter wrenches, to no avail, no room to get the strap kind in there, so I had to drill holes in the filter and run a screwdriver through it and turn it like that, that took about an hour and eventually I got the damn thing off and the new one on.. If I could have gotten my hands on the guy that did that..................
Sigh........ Just wanted to tell of my horrible experiance and my flawed M now. =(
As for the oil change...I am at a loss to understand why anyone with a new car would want to change the oil himself.
My 5* charges $23.95 for an oil change. I then have a receipt, in the event of a future problem, showing a proper oil change interval and there is no arguement that it was not done properly.
While the car is in the lift, I have the wheels rotated.
The above is done every 5,000 miles, and has worked for me over many years and cars.
Also, does everyones 300M's have a slight delay in the rpm vs acceleration curve? When I press the gas, the rpm's will go up as much as 1000 before the car will accelerate. And, Is everyones 300m's gas pedal lower then the brake pedal. I have been afriad to take it to the dealer for these issues. I don't want an answer like it's the exhaust system, or the ported airbox, or the Jet module. Thanks
fuzzywuzzy - I I too noticed this lag, but rationalized it as the torque converter unlocking. Dunno.
easyrider300m / fuzzywuzzy - I notice a hiss too, but didn't think much about it. Many others have posted the same noise so I thought it was normal. Let us know what the new throttle body does for you / it.
Russ-After having changed my own oil for years in my Scirocco, I too am glad to pay the premium to have someone else do it. It costs about triple a do it yourself job, but I think it's worth the price. I also found that I don't dread it like when I did it myself, thus it's changed regularly, not "when I feel like it". The only thing that worries me about a quick change place doing it is that they're not really liable for problems. My wife's uncle had a new Toyota T-100 truck that he took in for it's first oil change. He left and made it 3 miles down the road. They had cross-threaded the oil plug and it popped out under pressure. He got a lawyer, after no help from the chain, and the lawyer said that based on the contract that he signed with them (that fine print on the back of the bill), he was out of luck! I go to the same place and they know me (they actually know the M. They huddle around and drool over it and just say "hi" briefly to me!!), so I feel that they are taking care of me. Fingers crossed!
I've been in a lot of garages in my years and the Tire Rack in South Bend,IN is totally professional. I was a little apprehensive when-#1 I had to pay in advance for the balance and #2 when the kid came to me with one of my center covers in 2 pieces. It seems the clip had corroded and just snapped off. My dealer ordered me a new cap N/C so it mst b a common problem. By the way I msspelled my dealers name in the orig. message. Should give credit where crediti due; Should have been Gurley-Leep Chrysler in Mishawaka, IN.
General: Anybody have excessive lifter noise when starting engine?
Later.
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