I can not return it. They have a non return policy. I do urge some other people to try it. My #'s might be wrong. Maybe my Gtech is wrong, maybe my install is wrong, Maybe it's just MY 300M. Without others to test with, my #'s don't mean anything. Now a few other M's that get similar #'s, & we have a case. Could be FL. Maybe the heat??
Well, guys and gals, we finally pulled the string on an order for a new '01 300M! After 2 years of study, website lurking, etc., man it feels good to have the baby on its way. We are getting a steel blue metallic, slate interior, shiny wheels, roof hole, luxo group, standard stereo, non-php beauty with side bags. $100 over invoice, or $30,971 with $390 included for the dumb advertising fee. Anyone out there have experience w/ dealers amenable to disabling the speed limiter?
Anyway, just wanted to say "thanks" to you all as your input has had major impact on my decision. The forum is a very valuable tool for buyers...beats the hell out of walking up to people in a parking lot and asking them how they like their car (though I've done that too)
Others who have asked dealers about disabling the speed limiter have been told it can't be done. In any event, the limiter on the non-PHP 300M keeps it to the speed rating limit of the tires that come on the non-PHP, so even if the limiter could be disabled, you would need to first replace the tires with V rated tires (which come on the PHP car). If you don't want the speed limiter, why not order a PHP car? Either way, enjoy your car when it gets here!
As an ex SHO owner (89 & 93), get the PHP. You won't be sorry. rklass pretty much said it all.
I do miss the rush at about 4,000 rpm when the extra butterflies came on-line. I used to live for that sound. Don't think the 300 needs more horsepower, but a more efficient tranny. I use the auto-stick sparingly, but it I do appreciate having it when I want it.
There just wasn't anything else in the market to compare to the 300M for the price. The extra few thousand dollars over the Intrepid R/T (it had only come out a few weeks before I bought the 300M) was worth it. R/T wasn't a bad car, it's just the 300 was classier.
Coming up on my 1 yr anniv. Just passed 16K, and still loving it.
Date Correction: The auto show at Larz Anderson Park is scheduled for Sunday May 6th----all cars on the lawn area there will be either Chryslers or Dodges. Should be some letter series Chryslers 300's there!
Larz Anderson is in Brookline, MA about 5 miles from Boston. Its a long drive from Springfield but if your coming out anyway to visit someone it should be worth checking out. Maybe I'll see you there. I'm driving a silver Y2k with chromies, big roof, etc.
There's a concession stand, barbacue area, scenic views of Boston, a baseball field and walking paths. The museum also has an permanent display of some interesting antique autos. Hope some other M'ers can go there as well. Should be a great place to have an M meet!
I'm another ex-SHO guy ('90). I agree with you about the secondaries kicking in - it was a real kick to drive, and I do miss that and the 5-speed manual. In most other ways, the M is a better car, however. There isn't any new car built that had exactly what I wanted, but the M comes about as close as I could afford. I don't know if I could fit in 740, anyway. One of those with a 6-speed might be nice if I had the bucks.
I came close to buying a 5-speed Maxima SE (which smokes the M, but isn't as nice otherwise) and a '99 SHO (that V8 really sounds sweet, especially if you open up the pipes a little.) The looks and the room of the M won out in the end, though.
I am a new 300M owner. I read through much of the board for about a month before I felt pretty confident in buying an M.
I bought my 2000 300M 4 weeks ago for $24,000 as a left over dealer demo model with 800 miles on it. Practically brand new.
It is Steel blue with tan interior, hole in the roof, infinity sound, and I believe PHG - I have measured the discs and they are 11.7. The tires Michilens XGT V4. I came very close to testing the 118mph limited a while ago but had to slow down for traffic. =O
I have so far been satisfied with the 5* dealer. One of the first things I noticed is the shrinking door trim. I was introduced right away to service manager who ordered up new trim all the way around. Although it took two weeks to get it it is now in and I have an appointment to get it in.
After a brief getting used to the very tight power assisted steering as vs. full power (had a 94 Deville prior to M...) I found that I have a very slight pull to the left and the steering wheel isn't center. and at times it feels as if I am making to many tiny adjustments to keep it straight. (more noticeable at higher speeds). I talked to the dealer about it and they said that they usually recommend waiting for a couple thousand miles on it before they will look at the alignment and balancing.
I moved/swapped the front tires with each other (L2R R2L) and it didn't change, and I don't have good years. so I know its not the tires. Any recommendations here, or experiences that I can use to help point out what to do to the dealer?
Other than one dash rattle to the lower left of the steering column and the noticable cabin noise (as opposed to my former Deville), I am overall pleased with the car. I am going to sound deaden it eventually.
It's kinda funny in my Deville I drove with the drivers seat raised to the top, in the 300M its all the way to the bottom. My only other ironic contrast is that I used to be able to see all the corners of the Deville allowing for quick and precise parking,on my 300M I see none making it difficult to park even though it's smaller.
I thank all of you for all your prior posts, they have been very helpful, insightful, and interesting. I hope to post a few of my own.
Sorry to hear the bad news. I was hoping for a .3 speed decrease, not an increase. I am shelling out almost four grand for a nav,dvd, audio system. So any Jet module with be on the back burner for a while. Did you use the same streach of road for all the tests? And what octane gas did you use?
Titan-Make sure your repaired car handles well. Very few modern day cars have frames. All the body panels bolt together to make a "unibody frame", sort of an exoskeleton instead of an endoskeleton. With no frame, the panels that make up the car's body itself absorb impacts, and thus bend. I wrecked my Scirocco in 88, and they hooked up to the tow racks on the front and the back and pulled it back straight! Never drove the same though. I'm not trying to freak you out or anything, just want you to make sure that you carefully and thoroughly check it out before you sign off on the repairs.
All-For those who weren't around the first time I posted it a long time back, here is a great article about the technology that went into building the M!
Put a nice coat of Zaino on the M on Sunday, and it snowed 2 inches here in Central Alabama last night!! Got to use that traction control a bit this morning!!
Congratulations on your very smart purchases. I hope all your cars are as trouble free as mine; 13K miles and not a problem to report.
If you've been lurking for a while, you've probably seen occasional references to the newly organized Chrysler 300M Enthusiasts Club, founded by a group of 300M zealots like yourselves. We invite you to check us out at http://www.300mclub.org.
We're growing every day, and we've now started signing up Chrysler dealers in our member discount program that gives you a 10% discount on your service and parts/accessories. We provide you with everything you need to sign up your own dealer and start saving money right away. You can also save $5.00 on your first years dues by joining by April 15th.
We have a lot of neat things planned. We're the only "authentic" car club for 300M owners. Edmunds and others are terrific Internet forums, but we go the extra step to bring 300M owners together outside the Internet. No one else offers the membership benefits we do. Check us out. We think you'll like what you see.
It is STILL OLD NEWS. No matter what the site says. Read it. It says they tested a 99 LHS. I don't care what they say. A LHS is not the same as a 300M. Different body panels, different computers, programmed differently. Untill they test a REAL 300M, A 00, or 01 model, there "test" means nothing. To me anyway.
Easy - thanks for the info on the show. I will try to make it there (hopefully with side marker lights on). Last time I was on I-95 was a blast!
Fastdriver - thanks for the article. I believe I originally bought one of those vehicles 'cuz as soon as I complained, the dealer took it back.
& Denverm & all - the crash results are quite sobering. I had heard they were pretty bad. I hope everyone does their best to avoid those head on collisions. The M handles so well that we should be able to. I did see an accident with an M & an Isuzu Trooper; the M hit the Isuzu which was stopped at a light. The M was traveling about 20-30 mph; the driver must have been asleep, he didn't even brake. The Isuzu looked acutally looked OK afterwards, the M sustaind major front end damage but the occupants looked OK. Stay sharp out there!
MY FRIEND AND I BOTH HAVE A LOW, GROWLING "SOMETHING'S LOOSE" SOUND AT COLD IDLE AND LOW RPM'S. THERE'S A TSB (07-01-00, ON ALLDATA) AND IT'S ALSO MENTIONED AS AN ENGINE PROBLEM AT THE NHTSA SITE. ANY BODY ELSE EVER HAVE THE PROBLEM? IS IT A BIG REPAIR? I'M STILL UNDER WARRANTY, BUT I'D LIKE TO BE ABLE TO TALK TO THE SERVICE REP.WITH SOME KNOWLEDGE OF THE SOLUTION.-- CARLOSKID
I also had that problem and brought it in when I had tranny serviced at 15K--I gave them the tsb number . When I picked up the car, they stated they did the tsb but cant guarantee the noise will be gone. Well, the noise is still there and Im not happy about it. I am going back for another repair and will mention it to them. Dont know if they will reattempt the repair. I have heard from fellow M'ers that its caused by a loose accessory belt and have heard others had it solved with TSB.
I also had mentioned the slow to update overhead console. They did the tsb repair which was to reprogram the computer chip. Now I have another problem due to the reprogram where the ac comes on even if outside temp is under 50 and inside temp is set for 70. I can only get the heat to come on if I turn it up to about 75. Anyone else have this problem.
My 5* did try to "soothe" me by telling me that my car wasnt a caddy or a lexus so I shouldnt expect it to be as quiet. I didnt buy that line.
Let me know how you make out with the growling prob on your M.
Anyone know when AllDataDIY.com will have 1999 data available? They currently only go through 1998, so no 300M. :<(
Anyone know what a DRB III device to diagnose our vehicles costs from Chrysler? Autotap www.autotap.com has a unit for 289.99 that can be used, but it's listed as "Available soon" for Chryslers and imports.
I just got all the manuals from Tech Authority (Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures $20, Service Manual $90, Body Diagnostic Procedures $22, Transmission Diagnostic Procedures $9) These manuals are supposed to be the same ones the dealership technicians use. They are well written and PACKED full of information. It's tough to digest all the info. Lots of flow charts and step by step procedures. Good info on DRB III use. Only bad thing I've seen so far is that I see a lot of flowchart branches leading to same solution to many problems, replace BCM, PCM, or TCM. Those can't be cheap. I hope trouble never leads me down that path. :>)
I would really like to know if some DIY has bought "all the right toys" and what you recommend before I invest in such a tool.
Make that 11" of snow in parts of Central Alabama!! There weren't even any flurries in the forecast and it wasn't supposed to get below 40!!! I thought it was only supposed to RAIN when I washed the M?!?!?
Anyone know when AllDataDIY.com will have 1999 data available? They currently only go through 1998, so no 300M. :<(
Anyone know what a DRB III device to diagnose our vehicles costs from Chrysler? Autotap www.autotap.com has a unit for 289.99 that can be used, but it's listed as "Available soon" for Chryslers and imports.
I just got all the manuals from Tech Authority (Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures $20, Service Manual $90, Body Diagnostic Procedures $22, Transmission Diagnostic Procedures $9) These manuals are supposed to be the same ones the dealership technicians use. They are well written and PACKED full of information. It's tough to digest all the info. Lots of flow charts and step by step procedures. Good info on DRB III use. Only bad thing I've seen so far is that I see a lot of flowchart branches leading to same solution to many problems, replace BCM, PCM, or TCM. Those can't be cheap. I hope trouble never leads me down that path. :>)
I would really like to know if some DIY has bought "all the right toys" and what you recommend before I invest in such a tool.
OK, sorry for posting old news on the 300M crash tests. Here is the very latest design concept in airbag protection: http://www.btjdesign.com/newairbags.jpg
My guess would be what I have said before. Different computer programming! These cars are run by computers. It's nice to see the results inprove, but I still would like to see a 300M tested.
Wasn't it you who tried the Equal product for the wobble in the Badyears? Any update on how that product worked out? My own tolerance level of this irritant continues to slip, but I can't justify dumping the five tires in the rotation at 30K if the Equal solution will work.
As I posted earlier, my Y2K I has been plagued by a faulty driver-side rear door lock that would not fully disengage in cold weather. Last week the dealer replaced the power mechanism and, as you may remember, I posted that the lock still did not work properly. Took it back last night for a "re-fix."
Service writer called me this morning and said that the lock had been fixed. Seems that a rod of some sort was bent (this puzzles me since there has been no damage to the door and their techs were the only people to go in there) and was rubbing against insulation in the door. Reminded her that the door lock worked ok in moderate weather and was a problem when temp dropped. "Oh!" was the reply. Told her to keep the car outside for several hours and re-check the lock. I'll post later to let you know what happened.
I posted a request for info before for information regarding the voltage light coming on. Since then it has come on once and went away when I stopped and restarted the car. The new problem is tht when driving at night you can noticeably see the lights dim or flicker whenever you touch the brakes! I thought I was seeing things but the wife and kids confirmed it and it was especially noticeable when I tested it on the dark garage wall. Also, once while driving the gas gage dropped to empty for a second or two and then went back to a correct reading. This happened when I switched on the wipers. Do I have an overall voltage problem or is this normal. I have never heard of this before and would like some feedback from some of you more technical 300Mers.
Denfinite Electrical System Problems. Don't let it go. Get it to the dealer, & make them fix it. You might find yourself in the middle of the road with a dead 300M.
I agree that dealer needs to fix this. Also, the Durango Owners Club has an FAQ on DC computer codes, how to have them displayed and what they mean. I haven't tried it, but go to http://www.durangoclub.com/faq/default.htm and then click on "Technical" in the left margin, then "DC Computer Codes."
Vic-You do know that there is a built in code generator, don't you? Kust a few key turns (don't remember the sequence), and the trouble codes pop up where the odometer readout normally is. Several here have used it in the past to assist their dealers.
Crash Results-I saw a commercial for 20/20 last night (don't know when it airs) and they were talking about whether or not you should expect better crash results from more expensive cars. Of course, there was a quick few test crashes in the background while they were saying this, and I'm almost sure I saw them kill a 300M amongst the others. Should be worth a watch. I'd bet they did a good bit of redesign to make it more crashworthy. The body has very little to do with crashworthiness, it's the underlying structure and parts placement. A few years back, VW made a $50 part change on one of their models that took that model from a poor to a good rating on the basis of the part change alone! Panels can be made more or less rigid, parts more crash friendly, etc. with no visible outside change. I would bet that there are lots of changes from the 99 to the 00 and from the 00 to the 01 that we don't even remotely know about that improves things such as this.
Right, But DC didn't change any of the underlineing stuff. The 99-01's are the same. The 99 insurance report said the airbag deployed late on there tests. This was why they gave it a poor rating. DC said this was due to the softness of the wall they used. It fooled the lhs's computers into thinking it was a less serious crash. Causing late deployment. So if it was a computer issue all along. DC must have reprogramed this to satasify the insurance test, thus the 01 models got a better rating. This makes the most sense to me.
The way those cars were damaged, I find it hard to believe that DC could come up with an explanation like "DC said this was due to the softness of the wall they used. It fooled the lhs's computers into thinking it was a less serious crash causing late deployment". If you saw the report, even Lexus had problems with late deployment of airbags, but their problem was due to the cable on the sensor being too short. Resolution: add a longer cable. The Lexus tested good once that was done.
Does this "sensor conflict" mean that those of us with '99-00 M's have a sensor which may detect a solid object (such as a wall) as soft, and deploy the bags late??
Dustinnewton, the sequence for displaying stored trouble codes is: Ignition on-off three times within 5 seconds to the start position without engaging the starter , leaving it on the third time. the service engine light will blink out a sequence code in flashes. 55 means end of trouble codes or no stored trouble codes.
my throttle -body and wood trim piece have arrived-they will install next friday--also I complained about continuing rumbling sound from engine area at cold start low rpm's --anyone else have this problem and did they solve it --they didnt fix it last time I was in althought they did perform the tsb on it--they gave me the excuse that "the M is not a Caddy or a Lexus" so they suggest I shouldnt expect it to be perfect. Not acceptable to me.
I also complained of groaning noise from brakes on mild stops at low speed--anyone else notice this--sound like front brake area noise--linings are wearing very well at 15K--they should be good for at least another 15-20K.
I'm going to watch the crash tests on NBC's Dateline on Friday night just like I watched them crash the 1999 LHS a while back. I know some of you think the 300M would perform very different than the LHS but come on, do you really think so? Panels like a different bumper, hood, and fenders don't make a difference in how the actual "structure" holds up. Other than the cosmetics, a 300M is identical to the LHS in many ways (except for the rear end design). I didn't seem much in the previews about airbags not deploying correctly or sensors, I saw a structure that crumpled up more than it should and a dummy's legs that got trapped and almost crushed in both the 99 and 01 cars. Come on people, get real.
Anyway, my car is still the same; nothing better and nothing worse. I went to the new DCAnswers site and emailed a summary of my problems. In two days, they emailed me back and said after talking to the main guy at the 5-star dealer I took it to twice, they might be able to resolve something. He said that the dealer was willing to take the dash apart completely and find out where the noises are. I'll make an appointment when I have time (like they'll accomplish anything).
tictac3- When your rear door lock issues are fixed, please post in detail. I thought mine only got stuck in cold weather, but my wife complains that it rarely unlocks like it should.
Lately, I've also noticed a slight side-to-side wiggle when you slow to a stop from a normal road speed. It feels like the rotors are slightly warped. I'm not sure about the transmission still slipping but it does do something funny--it's probably one of those things the expert dealers say is also normal.
I also am having problems with the seats. The driver's seat memory seems to work when it wants to. The same seat also seems like the motor is either on the fritz or croaking; it sounds funny and sometimes doesn't move the way it should.
Anyone who has installed a sunroof visor? I'm interested in getting something like this--the wind noise and buffeting is rather annoying and loud.
I'm not sure if I've had the current problems with growling and/or smoke at start-up. But who would know? There's so many other sounds when I start the car in the morning that I probably couldn't determine one from the other. At least I don't see any smoke.
It the point of contact is in the frame area there will be less damage. If the point of contact is to the outside of the frame far more damage will occure. could be the reason for the change.
Well after 2 long weeks the carbon/aluminum dash kit showed up today. While I am sure its going to look great once installed, I can say I am less than thrilled with the material. Its all plastic, the brushed aluminum looks like it was brushed alright, with a paint brush! The "exterior badging" is nothing more than a cheap vinyl decal they suggest you stick on the deck lid. Um no thanks! My wife did like the key fob, but the custom floor mats are of very low quality and have no hole for the floor anchor like the factory ones do. It was a lot of money for what comes in the kit, worth it? I don't think so, in fact if their return policy (read restocking charge) were not so strict, I would send the kit back!
sorry man i didn't know you were going to order it i would have told you no, they sent me a sample about 6 months ago i told them not on my m may be worth it to send it back...
The groaning bake noise just prior to a stop (also upon brake release) has been present on my 2000 PHP since I bought it in Jan 2000. It is somewhat intermittent, and I haven't tried to do anything about it yet, but it's starting to get a little annoying. It sounds to me like the same sound you hear when the ABS or traction control activates. I've only been in for warranty service one time, for the low RPM engine growl. They did the TSB (tighten alternator belt) and that helped, but the noise soon returned. I adjusted it again myself with about the same results. The noise does apparently come from the belt. Since it only occurs briefly when the engine is cold, I guess I can live with it.
I don't Argue, so I won't say any more about the crash worthyness of the 300M, other then I saw 3 wrecked, & ALL the people walked out of them. So for me enough said.
I use Eagle One Chrome and Wire wheel cleaner for removing dirt and grime. I then use Eagle One Never Dull to polish to a beautiful shine. I have been using these products for three years and havn't found anything that does a better job.
Just Wondering. You all that keep endorsing Zaino. Does this stuff really work as good as you all claim? Or are you guys getting discounts for advertising. Or are you all owners of Zaino stock? Will Zaino remove tar stains in paint? Or Exhaust hydrocarbons stuck to my trunk lid? I think I am going to give it a try.
Comments
Anyway, just wanted to say "thanks" to you all as your input has had major impact on my decision. The forum is a very valuable tool for buyers...beats the hell out of walking up to people in a parking lot and asking them how they like their car (though I've done that too)
Happy MMMotoring! I'll be joining you soon.
Thanks,
Rob
As an ex SHO owner (89 & 93), get the PHP. You won't be sorry. rklass pretty much said it all.
I do miss the rush at about 4,000 rpm when the extra butterflies came on-line. I used to live for that sound. Don't think the 300 needs more horsepower, but a more efficient tranny. I use the auto-stick sparingly, but it I do appreciate having it when I want it.
There just wasn't anything else in the market to compare to the 300M for the price. The extra few thousand dollars over the Intrepid R/T (it had only come out a few weeks before I bought the 300M) was worth it. R/T wasn't a bad car, it's just the 300 was classier.
Coming up on my 1 yr anniv. Just passed 16K, and still loving it.
Larz Anderson is in Brookline, MA about 5 miles from Boston. Its a long drive from Springfield but if your coming out anyway to visit someone it should be worth checking out. Maybe I'll see you there. I'm driving a silver Y2k with chromies, big roof, etc.
There's a concession stand, barbacue area, scenic views of Boston, a baseball field and walking paths. The museum also has an permanent display of some interesting antique autos. Hope some other M'ers can go there as well. Should be a great place to have an M meet!
Here is the link to the park: http://www.mot.org/index_static.html
I came close to buying a 5-speed Maxima SE (which smokes the M, but isn't as nice otherwise) and a '99 SHO (that V8 really sounds sweet, especially if you open up the pipes a little.) The looks and the room of the M won out in the end, though.
-MMCCCM
I bought my 2000 300M 4 weeks ago for $24,000 as a left over dealer demo model with 800 miles on it. Practically brand new.
It is Steel blue with tan interior, hole in the roof, infinity sound, and I believe PHG - I have measured the discs and they are 11.7. The tires Michilens XGT V4. I came very close to testing the 118mph limited a while ago but had to slow down for traffic. =O
I have so far been satisfied with the 5* dealer. One of the first things I noticed is the shrinking door trim. I was introduced right away to service manager who ordered up new trim all the way around. Although it took two weeks to get it it is now in and I have an appointment to get it in.
After a brief getting used to the very tight power assisted steering as vs. full power (had a 94 Deville prior to M...) I found that I have a very slight pull to the left and the steering wheel isn't center. and at times it feels as if I am making to many tiny adjustments to keep it straight. (more noticeable at higher speeds). I talked to the dealer about it and they said that they usually recommend waiting for a couple thousand miles on it before they will look at the alignment and balancing.
I moved/swapped the front tires with each other (L2R R2L) and it didn't change, and I don't have good years. so I know its not the tires.
Any recommendations here, or experiences that I can use to help point out what to do to the dealer?
Other than one dash rattle to the lower left of the steering column and the noticable cabin noise (as opposed to my former Deville), I am overall pleased with the car. I am going to sound deaden it eventually.
It's kinda funny in my Deville I drove with the drivers seat raised to the top, in the 300M its all the way to the bottom. My only other ironic contrast is that I used to be able to see all the corners of the Deville allowing for quick and precise parking,on my 300M I see none making it difficult to park even though it's smaller.
I thank all of you for all your prior posts, they have been very helpful, insightful, and interesting.
I hope to post a few of my own.
Brian
Did you use the same streach of road for all the tests? And what octane gas did you use?
http://www.detnews.com/2001/autos/0103/20/-201364.htm
Guess buyer beware still holds true.
fastdriver
Titan-Make sure your repaired car handles well. Very few modern day cars have frames. All the body panels bolt together to make a "unibody frame", sort of an exoskeleton instead of an endoskeleton. With no frame, the panels that make up the car's body itself absorb impacts, and thus bend. I wrecked my Scirocco in 88, and they hooked up to the tow racks on the front and the back and pulled it back straight! Never drove the same though. I'm not trying to freak you out or anything, just want you to make sure that you carefully and thoroughly check it out before you sign off on the repairs.
All-For those who weren't around the first time I posted it a long time back, here is a great article about the technology that went into building the M!
http://www.automfg.com/articles/069802.html
If you've been lurking for a while, you've probably seen occasional references to the newly organized Chrysler 300M Enthusiasts Club, founded by a group of 300M zealots like yourselves. We invite you to check us out at http://www.300mclub.org.
We're growing every day, and we've now started signing up Chrysler dealers in our member discount program that gives you a 10% discount on your service and parts/accessories. We provide you with everything you need to sign up your own dealer and start saving money right away. You can also save $5.00 on your first years dues by joining by April 15th.
We have a lot of neat things planned. We're the only "authentic" car club for 300M owners. Edmunds and others are terrific Internet forums, but we go the extra step to bring 300M owners together outside the Internet. No one else offers the membership benefits we do. Check us out. We think you'll like what you see.
Thanks,
Roger Waters, President
Chrysler 300M Enthusiasts Club
http://www.300mclub.org
HTTP://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle%5Fratings/ce/html/99020.htm
Fastdriver - thanks for the article. I believe I originally bought one of those vehicles 'cuz as soon as I complained, the dealer took it back.
& Denverm & all - the crash results are quite sobering. I had heard they were pretty bad. I hope everyone does their best to avoid those head on collisions. The M handles so well that we should be able to. I did see an accident with an M & an Isuzu Trooper; the M hit the Isuzu which was stopped at a light. The M was traveling about 20-30 mph; the driver must have been asleep, he didn't even brake. The Isuzu looked acutally looked OK afterwards, the M sustaind major front end damage but the occupants looked OK. Stay sharp out there!
ANY BODY ELSE EVER HAVE THE PROBLEM? IS IT A BIG REPAIR? I'M STILL UNDER WARRANTY, BUT I'D LIKE TO BE ABLE TO TALK TO THE SERVICE REP.WITH SOME KNOWLEDGE OF THE SOLUTION.-- CARLOSKID
I also had mentioned the slow to update overhead console. They did the tsb repair which was to reprogram the computer chip. Now I have another problem due to the reprogram where the ac comes on even if outside temp is under 50 and inside temp is set for 70. I can only get the heat to come on if I turn it up to about 75. Anyone else have this problem.
My 5* did try to "soothe" me by telling me that my car wasnt a caddy or a lexus so I shouldnt expect it to be as quiet. I didnt buy that line.
Let me know how you make out with the growling prob on your M.
Easyrider300M
Anyone know what a DRB III device to diagnose our vehicles costs from Chrysler? Autotap www.autotap.com has a unit for 289.99 that can be used, but it's listed as "Available soon" for Chryslers and imports.
I just got all the manuals from Tech Authority (Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures $20, Service Manual $90, Body Diagnostic Procedures $22, Transmission Diagnostic Procedures $9) These manuals are supposed to be the same ones the dealership technicians use. They are well written and PACKED full of information. It's tough to digest all the info. Lots of flow charts and step by step procedures. Good info on DRB III use. Only bad thing I've seen so far is that I see a lot of flowchart branches leading to same solution to many problems, replace BCM, PCM, or TCM. Those can't be cheap. I hope trouble never leads me down that path. :>)
I would really like to know if some DIY has bought "all the right toys" and what you recommend before I invest in such a tool.
Anyone know what a DRB III device to diagnose our vehicles costs from Chrysler? Autotap www.autotap.com has a unit for 289.99 that can be used, but it's listed as "Available soon" for Chryslers and imports.
I just got all the manuals from Tech Authority (Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures $20, Service Manual $90, Body Diagnostic Procedures $22, Transmission Diagnostic Procedures $9) These manuals are supposed to be the same ones the dealership technicians use. They are well written and PACKED full of information. It's tough to digest all the info. Lots of flow charts and step by step procedures. Good info on DRB III use. Only bad thing I've seen so far is that I see a lot of flowchart branches leading to same solution to many problems, replace BCM, PCM, or TCM. Those can't be cheap. I hope trouble never leads me down that path. :>)
I would really like to know if some DIY has bought "all the right toys" and what you recommend before I invest in such a tool.
http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle%5Fratings/ce/html/00030.htm
Service writer called me this morning and said that the lock had been fixed. Seems that a rod of some sort was bent (this puzzles me since there has been no damage to the door and their techs were the only people to go in there) and was rubbing against insulation in the door. Reminded her that the door lock worked ok in moderate weather and was a problem when temp dropped. "Oh!" was the reply. Told her to keep the car outside for several hours and re-check the lock. I'll post later to let you know what happened.
Crash Results-I saw a commercial for 20/20 last night (don't know when it airs) and they were talking about whether or not you should expect better crash results from more expensive cars. Of course, there was a quick few test crashes in the background while they were saying this, and I'm almost sure I saw them kill a 300M amongst the others. Should be worth a watch. I'd bet they did a good bit of redesign to make it more crashworthy. The body has very little to do with crashworthiness, it's the underlying structure and parts placement. A few years back, VW made a $50 part change on one of their models that took that model from a poor to a good rating on the basis of the part change alone! Panels can be made more or less rigid, parts more crash friendly, etc. with no visible outside change. I would bet that there are lots of changes from the 99 to the 00 and from the 00 to the 01 that we don't even remotely know about that improves things such as this.
Does this "sensor conflict" mean that those of us with '99-00 M's have a sensor which may detect a solid object (such as a wall) as soft, and deploy the bags late??
I also complained of groaning noise from brakes on mild stops at low speed--anyone else notice this--sound like front brake area noise--linings are wearing very well at 15K--they should be good for at least another 15-20K.
Comments appreciated
Easyrider300M
Anyway, my car is still the same; nothing better and nothing worse. I went to the new DCAnswers site and emailed a summary of my problems. In two days, they emailed me back and said after talking to the main guy at the 5-star dealer I took it to twice, they might be able to resolve something. He said that the dealer was willing to take the dash apart completely and find out where the noises are. I'll make an appointment when I have time (like they'll accomplish anything).
tictac3- When your rear door lock issues are fixed, please post in detail. I thought mine only got stuck in cold weather, but my wife complains that it rarely unlocks like it should.
Lately, I've also noticed a slight side-to-side wiggle when you slow to a stop from a normal road speed. It feels like the rotors are slightly warped. I'm not sure about the transmission still slipping but it does do something funny--it's probably one of those things the expert dealers say is also normal.
I also am having problems with the seats. The driver's seat memory seems to work when it wants to. The same seat also seems like the motor is either on the fritz or croaking; it sounds funny and sometimes doesn't move the way it should.
Anyone who has installed a sunroof visor? I'm interested in getting something like this--the wind noise and buffeting is rather annoying and loud.
PS how do you change the flags?
If the wiggle is felt in the steering wheel going back and forth, then it's the front tires.
If the wiggle is felt by your butt in the seat, then it's the rear tires.
That's been my experience.
Oh well live and learn.....
Keith
Racefan9
Just Wondering. You all that keep endorsing Zaino. Does this stuff really work as good as you all claim? Or are you guys getting discounts for advertising. Or are you all owners of Zaino stock? Will Zaino remove tar stains in paint? Or Exhaust hydrocarbons stuck to my trunk lid? I think I am going to give it a try.