sdmike - all over really I grew up between germantown and olde city areas. Lived down art museum circle briefly and Mt. Airy for a longer while I'm now nw in montco area - think 309 What a great road! I've done all my best driving there...
Laurasdada - I had the same problem. got the new concorde in 98 - first year of that redesign and had lots of problems. It's hit and miss sometimes, and you never know, but I usually stay away from first year cars.
Got the K&N in and a fresh coat of wax today since I was off. I love my car! :-D
Interesting their references to some outside sources that use the same type of technology. There's a link to the Mercedes, Nissam and Infinity site. Get this...
"The engine features a direct ignition system (similar to Maxima), variable valve timing, exhaust manifold, microfinished crankshaft and camshafts, 32-bit engine control module and a special swirl control valve which increases air/fuel mixing during engine warm-up to improve combustion."
Direct quote from Nissan's website. Damn, maybe it does work... I just can't get over the website. Too darned tacky
I know of where you speak. My parents still live in Blue Bell, about at the intersection of 202 & 73. I remember good ole' 309 when there was nothing on it. The big 5 points intersection in montgomeryville had a couple of small shops and fields. The montgomery mall was all fields. You could drive from 202 north to souderton hitting only a few lights. Amazing the differences. Just FYI, I went to HS at Wissahickon in Ambler, my girlfriend went to Souderton. I was born in Bryn Mawr, and I worked for a few years at First Pennsylvania Bank at 16th & Market. Got my MBA at Drexel.
Where on 309 do you do your driving? From what I saw last time I was there you'd be doing 0-25-0-25-0-25 all the way up it. lol
Not if you drive it right I'm right near 5 points as a matter of fact... Went to Central High though, since I was a city boy then. Unless it's bad rush hour, then traffic moves nicely on 309 (the 10 mi bet. the city and the mall). I've maxed out the M there. I was upset about the limiter, didn't realize the phg took care of that.
There's hardly any open space anymore. All developments
When are these going to become available? I'm hoping to take advantage of the 0% APR financing but I have a feeling that this isn't going to be happening...
It's unlikey that those incentives will apply to the Special, but you never know. The factory hasn't even been producing them yet, so it will be a while before you see any of them at the dealer. My guess is spring '02
I just spent some time reading various sources that discuss the upcoming 300N, and in piecing them together (plus my first hand experiences) I've come up with the following:
The 2004 300N will come in two different packages, a "regular" version and a High Performance version. Both cars will be RWD and use several MB components, possibly including the tranny. Both cars will have a retro design, with a large grilled flat front (picture a more vertical chronos nose without the sloping hood), lower roof line, taller door and side panels, and 3/4 height side windows. The car looks smaller, but that might be because of the design. The base 300N will come with cloth interior and a 2.7 litre V6 engine. Leather and the current 250HP 3.5 litre V6 will be options. It will likely have 17in 7 spoke aluminum wheels, with chrome as an option. The one I saw had Goodyear LS tires on it The base 300N will be priced below $25k The High Performance N MAY have very slightly different styling around the grill and headlights. The High Performance N will have a 5.7 litre V8 Hemi engine (yum!) and will be priced in the low/mid 30s. The High Performance N had gorgeous 18in 8 spoke chrome wheels and Michelin Z-rated Pilots on it. neither car had dual exhaust from what I could tell. The interior prototypes were not luxurious at all. All materials, including the leather seats and the dash, were textured and colored to look like composits. The dash and components took a retro/minimalistic approach. I hated the interior (as did many others) and recommended that they start from scratch.
Now, keep in mind this is only based on my experience and what I've read, but it might help shine some light on where the car is going.
The difference are that the N used blue/black/charcoal textures and colors. Everything you see in red in the picture was a black/blue fabric/carbon fibre looking texture. The stick shift was a small ball on a single shaft. No boot. It was kind of tiptronic looking. Nothing that looked like auto-stick.
Granted it was a prototype with many non-functional pieces (e.g. there were no discernable electonics in the dash, only mock ups where they might be), but if it wasn't getting close they wouldn't have asked our opinion...right?
I remember reading somewhere here in the posts, that someone actually knew how much more HP they got out of an K&N airfilter Vs the stock..Does anybody know? I was thinking about 5HP more...So I ordered it..I hope it's worth it..
You can also see the design feature of the higher side panels and shorter retro window on the crossfire. This is similar to what they're doing with the 300. Remove the ferrari air venting, make the wheels/tires less radical, put a pseudo-M rear on it (not a PT rear) , make it 4 doors and you start getting close to the N design.
My guess is that I got about 3-5 total out of replacing my stock air filter with a K&N and putting Bosch Platinum +4 plugs in it. I probably also picked up 1-2mpg. Dual exhaust added some more. My guess is that I'm in the 260-265 range with those mods combined, but I clearly could be understating it.
man, seriously, if i had my M done like that, id cry every time i had to get out of it.... man.... if i had the money, id be right there with ya bro... its awesome~!
The "swirl" MB and other mfgrs. tout refers to the swirl action imparted to the fuel/air mixture as it enters the combustion chamber. This is caused by the port design and intake runner lemgth. It is believed that this action results in a nore even combustion process, yielding better fuel economy, more power, and lower emissions. Ottto: Bad news on another weeks layoff. I hope the Dodge cop car helps. GM abandoned the police market when they dumped the "real" Impala/Caprice. By the way, I believe the cop pkg. will use the 242HP version of the 3.5 engine. Wheel rust:This is caused by rust on the cast iron components of the rotor/hub assembly. The solution is to wash the wheels thoroughly whenever you wash the car. The rust from the hub/rotor gets flung off by centrifigsl force, and funs onto the wheel. It's just laying there, and will wash off easily if you don't leave it there too long. I live in the "rust belt", and drive 30,000 miles a year, but I have never found rust to be a problm with regular wheel washing.
I have an appointment to take my M in to "Dyno's Edge" tomorrow to do some runs on there machine. I dropped by today just to see where they are located. I'm surprised that they were advertising to the public to use their Dyno. They had to drag cars, both 5.0L Mustangs, blown to the hilt and a Saleen Mustang. One of the 5.0L had just gotten back from running in the 8.9 at Dallas. Develops 1200 HP. goes from 200 to 1000 HP in 2 seconds. The Saleen had 320 HP. This is HP at the wheel. So I'm surprised that they were interested in giving me the time to run the M on the Dyno. I'm considering three runs, $75.00 for three is the special, the first will be how they ever do a normal pull. Then they say I can do zero to max speed through all the gears. So I am going to do this once with the car in the normal drive position and then once again with it in the auto stick position, letting the auto stick shift a red line. These are quick runs up and down, there man sits in the driver seat, so I won't be able to get a picture of the speedometer. However it will be interesting. All data on HP, Torque, RPM, Air Fuel ratio comes out vs time. They will generate graphs, and store the data for future comparisons. Hope they can give me a disk I can read to do my own plots. If they do I will send them to Roger, I don't have a web page to post the results on, and maybe he can put them up on the club page. Thinking about future get togethers they also advertise that they would have special club prices if there was an event and club members wanted to do a pull. So when we get a few more members in NM maybe we should have a 300M Meet here. The drag racers get to full power in about four seconds on the dyno. They guess that it will take the M about 15 sec. In a normal run, with a race care, they set the car in 2nd or 3thrd and just bring it up to maximum RPM. The max speed the dyno can be turned is 200 mph so it should not be a problem running the M to max RPM in all gears. With no wind resistance and only the dyno setting the rolling resistance I'm very excited about seeing if the M can hit redline in 4th. If everything goes well you should see an interesting message tomorrow evening.
Reading the ad it states that it incrases the reduntant time that air and fuel is allowed to be mixed. In a carberated engine this would be true. But since our engines are fuel injected it does not apply to them.
Keep up the good work. When I was your age (many years ago) I did mods to my first car(s) I had. Some will say it is great, and some will not like it. I do it because I enjoy it, and it makes driving the car more enjoyable (if that is possible). I do not like every mod you have done, but I am sure you don't like every one that I have done eather, what is great is the sharing if ideas. I know if I get a Hemi C or an 300N with in a few days the process will start all over again, and if I loose the car for some reason It will be replaced (it should be easer to find in any case). I know of only one other one that has the tail lights like mine (the police wouldn't even need to check the plates and with our hood scoops, again not too many out there. So Keep on Keeping on. By the way your listed site for the new center 6.4" screen, I could not find. I saw the pics showing you with it all apart. My Plan is to replace my Stereo and double stack my motorized 7" screen (top) and put my AM/FM DVD player underneath it. The screen would only cover the Climite controls. I have yet to find a good flip down screen for the back passengers.
Only a few weeks 'till the lease end and I had to get a cracked windshield. on the way to work it sounded like a rock hit it, but I didn't see anything. Then as I got out of work, I saw that a large circular crack developed.
The dyno sounds great. Can't wait to see what you get. You'll blow that 1200hp machine out of the water, no problem... :-D
I just put the K&N in today. Haven't noticed much difference, but do prefer the better filter. As for the plugs though, has anyone here replaced them themselves? If the cap over the plug is removed, is there anything underneath it to be aware of? I've replaced plugs on older engines (wrench and some oil and it took 10 min on my wifes old intergra So is there anything besides a torex and a socket wrench that I'll need? And also, what's the size socket?
I had my local DC dealer do my plugs and mobil 1 oil/filter for me. I figured if they had to drill out a torx screw it would be on them and not me. heh. I know some here did it themselves so hopefully you'll get a response. Here is a link to a document with some part numbers. Included are numbers for the Bosch plugs and the replacement torx screws (if you need them)
Well, looks like I'll be driving my girlfriend and her brother from Minneapolis to Canada for a day, and come back with her mother and aunt as well. They are all either from Iran or have Iranian parents. Hopefully the border crossings will be without any hassles. My glowing NRA logos and "Have gun will vote" and "Guns save lives" messages on my license plate frames might spice things up...
yea man its all for kicks...most of the stuff i do isn't practical to a family car but....imagine if you are the only one driving it, and no one else in the car besides the occasional gatherings (friends car pools diners whatever) other than that i'm the only one in the car 99% of time and the one driving it 100% of the time. so i have more room to play bascially, hopefully when i get a wife and some kids, i'm not gonna be so flexible but anyhow, about a screen for teh back passengers, if you dont like the headrest idea...even tho i'm making a custom center console, i can take that rear piece, with the controllable vents, on the rear cabin, and make a mold, then mold in a tv flush, and send it to ya. if you just send me the tv and i think the mold will be around $100. i can get a tv for you too. all you have to do then is snap that in and wire it up.
YEP! Ya gamble, ya take a chance. However, not ALL first year models are problematic. Yours isn't, mine was. My current one is a first year model with no problems. Maybe it does depend on who makes them. I hate to be their guinea pig.
Haven't seen the new section at you know where yet, but heard it's great! More LV looking with brighter colors than the other areas.
easyrider300m-
Best bin Laden item I've seen yet. Wish I was as talented as the people who make these things. Think I need to take some animation courses so I can make my own car movies like I had with those SmashCast movies at 2 different photo sites, but have now been eliminated AGAIN! ;-((
ruski-
Sorry to hear about your windshield. Hope you had the full glass coverage on your insurance. It's only a few dollars more a year. Any thought yet on what will replace the 300?
Actually, unless the evil wife says no, I think I'm heading to the Happiest Place on Earth tomorrow. I'm going to try a new approach: Play to win instead of Play to have fun! Isn't winning fun, anyway??? The M so enjoys road trips! I'm sure the odds of NOT getting a first model year lemon are much greater with your Acura than with Chrysler! Not that mine is a lemon, just a little more annoying than my previous Japan, inc. cars. Still diggin' the M, though!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
"unless the evil wife says no"- BE CAREFUL or you'll never go again! ;-)))) Good luck.
Looks like a good day to wash and Zaino my car. I have not had time to clean it since I was in NH on Columbus Day weekend!! It looks great from far away with that Zaino shine, but up close and personal, it's FILTHY!
If the crack on the windshield is small and has not started to run, then find one of those glass fixing outfits in your town and you can have it fixed for for a few bucks and not have to replace the windshield. I had a crack on my 98 Intrepid prior to lease return and did not have a hassle when I returned it. It also helped that I leased my 300 M from the same dealer.
If you want some more excitement, when you get to the border checkpoint and they ask you "do you have any illegal drugs or firearms", rely with "uh..what do you need?".
Well, I did a little project today that was a long time coming. I got a big plastic container and put together an emergency kit. We had one a while back when I was staying in Florida (hurricane kit) and I know a lot of families in the midwest (tornado kit) and California (earthquake kit) but I finally got around to making one. I would recommend it to all of you, if not for use at least for the piece of mind. Here is a partial list of the contents if anyone is wondering:
water food (oatmeal, canned fruit, soup, tuna, baby formula, etc.) juice first aid kit flashlight battery/solar radio (with batteries) plastic tarp blanket nylon rope ponchos leatherman multi-tool can opener basic toiletries & medicine waterproof matches pet food (if you have pets) bleach (to make drinking water in an emergency) paper goods (towels, TP, bowls, plates, plastic silverware) small amount of $ etc.
Makes me feel better knowing we could live on the contents of the box for a week in a pinch.
Thanks for the list. Sounds like a good idea these days! Hope no one ever has to use it.
Finally washed and Z'd my car today. Hadn't been washed since Columbus Weekend! Put on some Z-5/Z-6 AND I washed the windows!! WOW! I can see again! The windshield and back window are ALMOST as hard to clean as Christine's was! I would still rather Z the car than clean the windows! ;-))
You would be appalled at how dirty Big Red and your car's twin are. There is a new housing development going in just west of us and in the evenings when the ocean breeze kicks up we get a healthy dose of dust on everything. I don't even bother washing the car anymore because in the morning it is covered in dirt (the dust combined with the night's dew makes a gross, muddy coating).
Maybe in the spring I can get some nice pictures again. lol
how bout some gas masks and a weapon such as a gun, machete, and/or pepper spray. With all those nice things in your box, you may be a target for roving gangs looking for food, etc.
"Robert, if your car has 282mm front disc'c the front rotors are $104.00 each, front carbon fiber pads $64.00 per axle set, rear rotors $75.00 each,
rear pads $66.00 per axle set. If your car has 297mm front disc's the rotors are $128.00 each, rear rotors $113.00 each, front and rear pads are the same price. You can contact me at 800-636-0854 to place your order. Thank you for
your interest in KVR braking products, Gary"
The 297mm front rotors are PHP or PHG size brakes, and the 282mm is for non-PHP.
In summary, PHP will cost $612, while non-PHP will cost $488 plus shipping for all four rotors and pads.
I did some close examination of my brakes and tires today. I'm almost at 40,000 miles and was wondering how soon before I need to replace them. I also looked at my Bosch Platinum +4 plugs after 30k miles on them.
I found my Michelin XGT V4 tires still have 5/32" of tread left. I think they come with 11/32" new and 2/32" is typically when state inspections no longer pass tires. Not bad, I think. Still got awhile before the wear bars show through.
For the brakes, I've got nice smooth rotors, no discernable warping (no vibration when braking either). Keep lug nuts torqued to 100 ft-lbs really saves rotors!
I've got about 6-7mm of brake pad left between the rotor and the pad backing. I'm not sure how much is left before replacement is required. I think the factory pads are bonded and not riveted onto the backing plates. Anyone know how thick new pads are?
Anyway, after all this, I think I may be able to continue on the tires and brake for at least another 10,000 miles maybe more.
The Bosch Platinum +4s looked very clean. I looked at the two front cylinders and saw a little carbon line under each electrode (all four) on the ceramic portion. Otherwise the ceramic had the usual ruddy brown color typical of detergent fuel use.
I have had it to the shop for the Recall once. No light shows (except for the way they were designed) to LS tire problems, and no transmission sensor problems. As they say this car has been Beeerrry, berrry goood to me. I have had very good luck with first year runs. For those of you that disagree, does that mean you are going to wait an additional year to get you 300N when they come out?
Easy - Well, I put a sharp hatchet in the box, but no guns/weapons for me. We don't allow them in the house. My two big dogs tend to put even the biggest people on alert.
Fastdriver - well, it's like this. Houses in California don't have basements for some reason, just slab foundations. As such we have no friggin storage. As a result I had to install nice cabinets in the garage on both sides. Consequently there is really only room for one car. AND, since my wife is responsible for hauling around 3 kids in the mini-van rain or shine she gets the spot. I DO occassionally sneak in when she's out and I'm home, but I usually get kicked out pretty quickly. lol
I saw a winter survival kit for mountain driving, the most interesting things it listed that you missed is that you need a small sterno stove, not to be used while buried in snow in your car, water, and more water, empty quart bottles (Gator Aid bottles work well) to piss in, a funnel for the ladies. This is serious. In the Serria mountains people have gotten stuck, buried inside their cars for several days, only about 20% survive because they are not prepared. Also this should not be kept in the trunk, unless your lucky and can get into the trunk like we can in the 300M. Several deaths each year. But the most important thing, to stretch that food supply, is a 20 lb. bag of Kibble and Bits. This is for the people and not the pets. Evidently eatable in a pinch and contains enough nutrition.
I took NMIFR300M to the dyno today. Stock 2001, PHP car. Delivers 163 SAE HP to the wheels. Boy that is a big loss from the 253HP claimed at the fly wheel. However it did reach 130 MPH at the redline in third gear. They would not do a run in Fourth as they say the overdrive gear ratio would put to much strain on the tranny. The experience is very interesting. I don't have a web page but if another 300Mclub member would like to put up the test and pictures I have written a short word document. dmcdaniel39@home.com
Comments
Laurasdada - I had the same problem. got the new concorde in 98 - first year of that redesign and had lots of problems. It's hit and miss sometimes, and you never know, but I usually stay away from first year cars.
Got the K&N in and a fresh coat of wax today since I was off. I love my car! :-D
"The engine features a direct ignition system (similar to Maxima), variable valve timing, exhaust manifold, microfinished crankshaft and camshafts, 32-bit engine control module and a special swirl control valve which increases air/fuel mixing during engine warm-up to improve combustion."
Direct quote from Nissan's website. Damn, maybe it does work... I just can't get over the website. Too darned tacky
otto - build them all as Special!
Where on 309 do you do your driving? From what I saw last time I was there you'd be doing 0-25-0-25-0-25 all the way up it. lol
There's hardly any open space anymore. All developments
Thanks
The 2004 300N will come in two different packages, a "regular" version and a High Performance version.
Both cars will be RWD and use several MB components, possibly including the tranny.
Both cars will have a retro design, with a large grilled flat front (picture a more vertical chronos nose without the sloping hood), lower roof line, taller door and side panels, and 3/4 height side windows. The car looks smaller, but that might be because of the design.
The base 300N will come with cloth interior and a 2.7 litre V6 engine. Leather and the current 250HP 3.5 litre V6 will be options. It will likely have 17in 7 spoke aluminum wheels, with chrome as an option. The one I saw had Goodyear LS tires on it
The base 300N will be priced below $25k
The High Performance N MAY have very slightly different styling around the grill and headlights.
The High Performance N will have a 5.7 litre V8 Hemi engine (yum!) and will be priced in the low/mid 30s.
The High Performance N had gorgeous 18in 8 spoke chrome wheels and Michelin Z-rated Pilots on it.
neither car had dual exhaust from what I could tell.
The interior prototypes were not luxurious at all. All materials, including the leather seats and the dash, were textured and colored to look like composits. The dash and components took a retro/minimalistic approach. I hated the interior (as did many others) and recommended that they start from scratch.
Now, keep in mind this is only based on my experience and what I've read, but it might help shine some light on where the car is going.
http://www.chrysler.com/inside/concept/index.html
The difference are that the N used blue/black/charcoal textures and colors. Everything you see in red in the picture was a black/blue fabric/carbon fibre looking texture. The stick shift was a small ball on a single shaft. No boot. It was kind of tiptronic looking. Nothing that looked like auto-stick.
Granted it was a prototype with many non-functional pieces (e.g. there were no discernable electonics in the dash, only mock ups where they might be), but if it wasn't getting close they wouldn't have asked our opinion...right?
phases
http://phases78.homestead.com/300m.html
For a look see ..........
http://www.members.home.com/shebb/CopCar.jpg
Ottto: Bad news on another weeks layoff. I hope the Dodge cop car helps. GM abandoned the police market when they dumped the "real" Impala/Caprice. By the way, I believe the cop pkg. will use the 242HP version of the 3.5 engine.
Wheel rust:This is caused by rust on the cast iron components of the rotor/hub assembly. The solution is to wash the wheels thoroughly whenever you wash the car. The rust from the hub/rotor gets flung off by centrifigsl force, and funs onto the wheel. It's just laying there, and will wash off easily if you don't leave it there too long.
I live in the "rust belt", and drive 30,000 miles a year, but I have never found rust to be a problm with regular wheel washing.
I have an appointment to take my M in to "Dyno's Edge" tomorrow to do some runs on there machine. I dropped by today just to see where they are located. I'm surprised that they were advertising to the public to use their Dyno. They had to drag cars, both 5.0L Mustangs, blown to the hilt and a Saleen Mustang. One of the 5.0L had just gotten back from running in the 8.9 at Dallas. Develops 1200 HP. goes from 200 to 1000 HP in 2 seconds. The Saleen had 320 HP. This is HP at the wheel. So I'm surprised that they were interested in giving me the time to run the M on the Dyno. I'm considering three runs, $75.00 for three is the special, the first will be how they ever do a normal pull. Then they say I can do zero to max speed through all the gears. So I am going to do this once with the car in the normal drive position and then once again with it in the auto stick position, letting the auto stick shift a red line. These are quick runs up and down, there man sits in the driver seat, so I won't be able to get a picture of the speedometer. However it will be interesting. All data on HP, Torque, RPM, Air Fuel ratio comes out vs time. They will generate graphs, and store the data for future comparisons. Hope they can give me a disk I can read to do my own plots. If they do I will send them to Roger, I don't have a web page to post the results on, and maybe he can put them up on the club page. Thinking about future get togethers they also advertise that they would have special club prices if there was an event and club members wanted to do a pull. So when we get a few more members in NM maybe we should have a 300M Meet here. The drag racers get to full power in about four seconds on the dyno. They guess that it will take the M about 15 sec. In a normal run, with a race care, they set the car in 2nd or 3thrd and just bring it up to maximum RPM. The max speed the dyno can be turned is 200 mph so it should not be a problem running the M to max RPM in all gears. With no wind resistance and only the dyno setting the rolling resistance I'm very excited about seeing if the M can hit redline in 4th. If everything goes well you should see an interesting message tomorrow evening.
By the way your listed site for the new center 6.4" screen, I could not find. I saw the pics showing you with it all apart. My Plan is to replace my Stereo and double stack my motorized 7" screen (top) and put my AM/FM DVD player underneath it. The screen would only cover the Climite controls. I have yet to find a good flip down screen for the back passengers.
I just put the K&N in today. Haven't noticed much difference, but do prefer the better filter. As for the plugs though, has anyone here replaced them themselves? If the cap over the plug is removed, is there anything underneath it to be aware of? I've replaced plugs on older engines (wrench and some oil and it took 10 min on my wifes old intergra
Thanks
http://www.ritchiefamily.com/misc/partnumbers.doc
Also, here is a link to my links page, which has an oil filter review, 300M specification documents, and other stuff.
http://www.ritchiefamily.com/links.htm
http://carpoint.msn.com/vip/overview/Aston%20Martin/V12%20Vanquish/new.asp
but anyhow, about a screen for teh back passengers, if you dont like the headrest idea...even tho i'm making a custom center console, i can take that rear piece, with the controllable vents, on the rear cabin, and make a mold, then mold in a tv flush, and send it to ya. if you just send me the tv and i think the mold will be around $100. i can get a tv for you too. all you have to do then is snap that in and wire it up.
YEP! Ya gamble, ya take a chance. However, not ALL first year models are problematic. Yours isn't, mine was. My current one is a first year model with no problems. Maybe it does depend on who makes them. I hate to be their guinea pig.
Haven't seen the new section at you know where yet, but heard it's great! More LV looking with brighter colors than the other areas.
easyrider300m-
Best bin Laden item I've seen yet. Wish I was as talented as the people who make these things. Think I need to take some animation courses so I can make my own car movies like I had with those SmashCast movies at 2 different photo sites, but have now been eliminated AGAIN! ;-((
ruski-
Sorry to hear about your windshield. Hope you had the full glass coverage on your insurance. It's only a few dollars more a year. Any thought yet on what will replace the 300?
fastdriver
The M so enjoys road trips!
I'm sure the odds of NOT getting a first model year lemon are much greater with your Acura than with Chrysler! Not that mine is a lemon, just a little more annoying than my previous Japan, inc. cars.
Still diggin' the M, though!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
"unless the evil wife says no"- BE CAREFUL or you'll never go again! ;-)))) Good luck.
Looks like a good day to wash and Zaino my car. I have not had time to clean it since I was in NH on Columbus Day weekend!! It looks great from far away with that Zaino shine, but up close and personal, it's FILTHY!
So much to do today and so little time!
fastdriver
water
food (oatmeal, canned fruit, soup, tuna, baby formula, etc.)
juice
first aid kit
flashlight
battery/solar radio (with batteries)
plastic tarp
blanket
nylon rope
ponchos
leatherman multi-tool
can opener
basic toiletries & medicine
waterproof matches
pet food (if you have pets)
bleach (to make drinking water in an emergency)
paper goods (towels, TP, bowls, plates, plastic silverware)
small amount of $
etc.
Makes me feel better knowing we could live on the contents of the box for a week in a pinch.
Thanks for the list. Sounds like a good idea these days! Hope no one ever has to use it.
Finally washed and Z'd my car today. Hadn't been washed since Columbus Weekend! Put on some Z-5/Z-6 AND I washed the windows!! WOW! I can see again! The windshield and back window are ALMOST as hard to clean as Christine's was! I would still rather Z the car than clean the windows! ;-))
fastdriver
Maybe in the spring I can get some nice pictures again. lol
Scotian can set you up with whatever you need.
Easyrider300M
http://www.kvrperformance.com/products.htm
"Robert, if your car has 282mm front disc'c the front rotors are $104.00 each, front carbon fiber pads $64.00 per axle set, rear rotors $75.00 each,
rear pads $66.00 per axle set. If your car has 297mm front disc's the rotors are $128.00 each, rear rotors $113.00 each, front and rear pads are the same price. You can contact me at 800-636-0854 to place your order. Thank you for
your interest in KVR braking products, Gary"
The 297mm front rotors are PHP or PHG size brakes, and the 282mm is for non-PHP.
In summary, PHP will cost $612, while non-PHP will cost $488 plus shipping for all four rotors and pads.
I found my Michelin XGT V4 tires still have 5/32" of tread left. I think they come with 11/32" new and 2/32" is typically when state inspections no longer pass tires. Not bad, I think. Still got awhile before the wear bars show through.
For the brakes, I've got nice smooth rotors, no discernable warping (no vibration when braking either). Keep lug nuts torqued to 100 ft-lbs really saves rotors!
I've got about 6-7mm of brake pad left between the rotor and the pad backing. I'm not sure how much is left before replacement is required. I think the factory pads are bonded and not riveted onto the backing plates. Anyone know how thick new pads are?
Anyway, after all this, I think I may be able to continue on the tires and brake for at least another 10,000 miles maybe more.
The Bosch Platinum +4s looked very clean. I looked at the two front cylinders and saw a little carbon line under each electrode (all four) on the ceramic portion. Otherwise the ceramic had the usual ruddy brown color typical of detergent fuel use.
Any comments?
NO! Don't tell me that red beauty is "muddy" looking! WHY isn't it in the garage? There is a garage that came with that beautiful house- isn't there?
fastdriver
Fastdriver - well, it's like this. Houses in California don't have basements for some reason, just slab foundations. As such we have no friggin storage. As a result I had to install nice cabinets in the garage on both sides. Consequently there is really only room for one car. AND, since my wife is responsible for hauling around 3 kids in the mini-van rain or shine she gets the spot. I DO occassionally sneak in when she's out and I'm home, but I usually get kicked out pretty quickly. lol
A: your M stays out on the street; or
B: put the minivan out there and buy your wife and kids umbrellas for those rainy days.
I say the M deserves the garage spot! (Chivalry has its limits!) ;-)
I took NMIFR300M to the dyno today. Stock 2001, PHP car. Delivers 163 SAE HP to the wheels. Boy that is a big loss from the 253HP claimed at the fly wheel. However it did reach 130 MPH at the redline in third gear. They would not do a run in Fourth as they say the overdrive gear ratio would put to much strain on the tranny. The experience is very interesting. I don't have a web page but if another 300Mclub member would like to put up the test and pictures I have written a short word document. dmcdaniel39@home.com
Do you have a pic of the pod itself installed... I gotta see what this looks like installed man...
Do you plan to do any of the mods we've done and dyno some more?
I've got lots of mods on my 1999(3" intake tube, 70mm TB, Dual Exhaust, etc) and I need to dyno mine. I just haven't got around to it.
Thanks,
Robert