Hmmm, I wouldn't suppose the new toy has a 240 hp inline six would it? If so, that narrows it down to 3 possibilities, all GM and probably the GMC flavor, or maybe the Olds, since it's going to become a Cadillac - and their giving them away at the moment.
I had my second light show on dash this morning. Dash lights blinked high and low while heading into the sun. Did this repeatedly for a couple of seconds. Finally settled down. I have heard of others experienceing this on 300M. I have a 2000M with 23,000 miles. Was wondering if there is a TSB on this problem?
Okay, I've been mulling this over for a while now and there has been some more discussion on it as of late so... I thought that keeping the stock collector and changing the back or middle muffler would keep the sound down inside and give it a more aggressive sound from out side. That seems to not be the case according to Mike.
Bottom line what I want is better, lower, more aggressive sound from the outside, not necessarily LOUD, but a sound that says PUUURRRRFORMANCE, and as little or no change to the cabin noise. There have been a lot of comments regarding low RPM resonance on the cars with duals, can that be avoided?
In CA I'm sure you guys have a ton of places where you can go and get good info from exhaust shops, you may or may not be surprised to know that the boys here in Boise,ID are no help, they can do what you tell 'em to do, but they aren't offering a lot of useful advise.
What do you guys think is the best way to get what I want?
So we've about 5" of snow in the last 24 hours and the temperature is around -10 celcius. Anybody want to buy my Zaino as I guess I won't be using it this year
Scotian- Got you clock faces yesterday. They look great. Thanks a lot.
My Zaino dealer made up an excellent comprehensive guide on how to use Zaino products that includes some of the tips on the Zaino site plus a lot more. If anybody wants it e-mail me at the address shown on my profile and I send it out. It's in Word .doc format.
Before I had mine installed the guy who did Glennbp's recommended I try without changing out the stock collector first. I had several responses here from people who had tried that route and they ended up changing out the collector due to the resonance -- so that's what I did from the start. I have the exact set-up as SDMike and it is a nice, low rumble. You can hear some resonance from the inside, but is mild and I kinda like it. You should be able to have any muffler place do it for you if you print out the diagram SDMike has on his web page. You just need someone willing to cut the rear valance for you.
easy - as far as I know entire exhaust is stainless.
300michael -strange they say the axles break whan lowered ,as I am pretty sure the Special uses the same ones the reg. 300 uses . All they have changed is the spings on the Special to lower it.
Thanks for the offer of a Chrysler contact, but I'm moving on. I have owned 4 Chryslers in the last 15 years and it's time for a change. I got zippo customer loyalty recognition from Chrysler and I don't feel they deserve the right to make it right now. The Dealer's are Chrysler and I don't have the time or patience to call Auburn Hills every time I feel terribly wronged. It's thier job to know. Thanks anyway.
All this talk of vibration and axles breaking on lowered M's... just another good reason why I wish I had rear wheel drive like the good old days. Can you imagine the 300M with a small block V8 putting out, say, 350 horses with RWD and a killer suspension? WOW!
Just got my car from the dealership's shop last night, and noticed a small crack on my windshield. I am pretty sure it was not there before - I would have noticed it when I wash the car. It is not chipped, like rock chipped, just a small crack by the passenger side's wiper blade. Stopped by the dealer, they said wont fix this, they did not crack it, etc. - need to go through my insurance for this. They did do some work on my car that I did not ask for - lube door and hood hinges - now the hood is misaligned - looks like it is not fully shut. Gotta wait till at least next week for them to correct this. My question to you guys: how can a windshield develop a crack, if there was no direct visible impact (small rock, vandalism) on the windshield? To my knowledge (backed by CarFax), the car has not been in an accident. Has anyone else experienced similar problem? May this be a defect that should be covered under warranty? Can this be a result of dealers's grease monkeys performing work on the hood (that I did not ask for)?
Andy, you probably did get hit by a stone chip or something and it created a very, very small crack that has grown. You just never noticed it until now. I have seen windshields that were not properly installed worsen a crack due to warping and flexing of the safety glass (this is what often causes visual distortion in the glass). You should hope it doesn't get worse - as I recall the winshield replacement on the 300M ain't cheap: $700-800.
Ah crap. Not about to go through my insurance on this - have $500 deductible. Of course, I could lower my deductibles and file a claim, but I would like to avoid insurance claims - I really like my current rate! Is it a better option to try to get it fixed in a local specialized shop? I assume if I just leave it as is, the crack will grow, right? Again, I am very suspicious about this - there is no sign of stone chip impact or anything like that. Thanks for your reply.
I use the California Water Blade on my 300m. Its great--sure beats wringing out a chamois, and I can do about 95% of my car with it. Its great on big nore-or-less flat areas, and if you get creative with how you hold it you can almost do the entire car. For the areas--like above the door near the roof/door area, I still use a chamois. The chrome rims?...well, the chamois is still good for something!
Ah, the dreaded "light show" trick. I don't know if there's an official tSB on this, but its happened to me several times. The -10* dealer 'couldn't duplicate' the problem--duh, it only seemed to happen at night. Dealer closes @5pm, so..... Also, the following things do/may/have happened in conjunction with the lights flashing: -gas guage reading empty, with a full tank -radio lights flashing -SEATS moving forward up to the steering wheel -Door locks clicking up and down -'electrical' sound coming from drivers side front-near light switch or in that area
Dealer replaced BCM (body control module) first time with a 're-built/re-programmed' unit. Same problem ocurred. Replaced again with NEW module--cost (per dealer..) was $1,000 ! Do not let them BS you into getting re-programmed unit-demand NEW unit.
Lately, I've been noticing 'clicking' sound again coming from same area..... There have been others who have had same thing happen...don't remember how far back I first posted about this, so happy scrolling......
Andy300M--Call your insurance agent and ask them for a windshield repair firm. Some companies will even pay for the repair and it should be cheap and effective if the nick is not too bad. I know USAA does this for customers.
The hood aliment on the front is easy and takes just a second. There are two things that look like black door knobs, by turning these you adjust the height of the front of the hood. if the alinment is in the back, that is a little more work.
Unfortunatly we are not in dreamland. So we have to deal with the M as it is. I may try to just make some shims to raise the engine. from studying the engine mount schemitics it should be not to hard to do. It might be a good idea for all the M's if this is such a problem.
Last I heard H&S was making a kit that raised the engine/tranny about 1/4". Do you know of anyone that has tried this? I think someone on the board here had the kit, but I don't know if it was ever installed. Sure would like to know if it makes a significant difference.
" The hood aliment on the front is easy and takes just a second. There are two things that look like black door knobs, by turning these you adjust the height of the front of the hood. if the alinment is in the back, that is a little more work. "
Thanks for your suggestion. I adjusting the knobs, twisting them all the way down, and it did not work. I guess I still need to make a trip to the dealer.
just by putting on lower profile tires. Only downside is the bigger gap between the tire and fender which I don't particularly care for...oh well--can't win. I know you guys are talking about removing that gap by lowering...I just literally lowered the entire car, but couldn't resist the comment :-)
easyrider300m - Thanks for the quick response with the link to the Basslink info. I'm going to tackle the installation tomorrow. Also, thanks for the kind words about my website. It's just a collection of foolishness I've been working on over the last five years. That cigar was a...uh...Swisher Sweet...yeah, that's it. Another time and another place! blonda - Don't be afraid to install the Aircharger. Follow the instructions, which women will do unlike most men, and it's very easy. The tough part for me was putting the 90 degree rubber bend back on the throttle body and making sure the K&N tube was inserted straight in the other end. It was hard because my hands are very big and that's a tight spot to work in. glennbp - I agree with you about the sound of the duals with the stock collector and a Flowmaster. A bonus with the Flowmaster is there is no packing to burn out inside. I love the sound, especially at idle. It really ROARS at full throttle with the Aircharger. cwbongus - In my opinion, regardless of your muffler setup, duals will make it louder in the cabin, but it's sweet, sweet MOPAR music. sdmike2 - Try reversing the rebreather hose on your Aircharger. I saw the kink in my hose with the original end plugged in at the motor. I was about to use the cutters and modify it, when I thought I'd try swithcing it around. It fits much better that way for some reason. Mine has been on a month and still no kink. Do any of you with the Basslink have the remote insalled under the dash? How does it work? Was it a worthwhile investment?
H&R sport springs have manufactured the shims to raise the engine. AJPIII was the person here that purchased the shims but has not checked in w/results.....where are you!
I still do not see how raising the drivetrain a 1/4" would offset and cure the 1.5" body drop of the sport springs, even worse case with the Intrax springs. Sounds like snake oil!
Many insurance companies will waive your deductable if you repair a windshield, as in the long run it will save them money over paying to replace it later. Give them a call.
Well mine arrived today so maybe I'll try to put it in tomorrow (yikes). I was looking at the instructions and although they are simple, I got a little nervous about it. Smittyd - thanks for the encouragement....you're right...women do follow directions better. I can't tell you how many things I have put together (including a humongous multi gym that took 8 hours) that my husband would have totally screwed up because he didn't take the time to read the directions. It does look a little tight near the throttlebody, but if you guys can do it -- it should be much easier with my smaller hands. Hard part will be finding the right tools...we have them somewhere. My husband is an alarm technician so we have lots of electrical type tools neatly organized, but the wrenches etc. appear to be scattered everywhere.
Question re: the basslink cable to the battery, did you guys work around it or disconnect it to install the charger?
Another question....I was going to take the car to a local tune-up shop to get the Bosch plus installed. You don't think it will freak my car out to have 2 mods done in one day do you? I'll drive it around some before I try to put in the charger as much as I can. I guess the fact that I have to disconnect the battery cable for the charger will help anyway.
I got my response from So-Cal on the lowering kit. They told me they do not do it any more (liability issues). Jim Sleeper does not work for them any more, eather. apparently the kit they had raised the Passenger side 3/4" and the drivers side 5/8" along with the transmission riser. I guess I will have to try to get the H&R risers.
There are also windshield replacement companies that will literally overcharge the insurance company to make up for a lot of your deductable. I did it once on my SUV. I only had a $120 deductable, but they only charged me $40 and overbilled the ins. co. for the rest. It's probably dishonest, but they are the ones doing it, not you. As a matter of fact, my insurance agent gave me the name of the place -- and it didn't affect my premium whatsoever. It's not really something you can control so hard for them to hold against you in most cases (the broken windshield).
ive had mine laying around my garage for months, havent had the chance to put them on. hopefully next weekend or the one after that my friends an i are going to do it. well see what happens!!! remember that i have the intrax sprngs not the h&r's!!!!!!! shhhhhh.........dont tell anyone, thats how i managed to get em for free from h&r!!! hehe. any ways ill let you guys know if there is any difference after i get it done!! Tom (dubs)
I didn't have to disconnect my basslink power cable OR my battery to install the aircharger. However, I guess it depends on where your power cable runs. Why do you think you need to disconnect the battery? Oh, your car shouldn't "freak" having two things done in one day. Your husband, on the other hand....
I just put Dunlop SP Sport A2's (225-60-16) on my '98 ES. The tire reads "Cold MAX Inflation - 44 psi." The label on the door says 32 psi recommended. I believe the ride will be more firm at higher inflation and that the tire will wear better.
I bought my mine thru internet auction. After installing it I wanted to add the remote control. Upon contacting Infinity, I was informed that there are two different versions of the BassLink-one that can have the remote control added, and one that can't. The el cheapo one I got cannot be remote controlled. It would be nice to have so you can easily adjust for different program sources (FM, CD, tape). Good luck.
lee1nyc - for normal use follow the door sticker recomendation!! Yes the ride will be firmer, but your tires will not wear evenly across the tread and run hotter and have worse traction. With that much pressure the tires will wear out in the centers prematurely. That is a maximum pressure that the tire manufacturer does not want you to ever exceed. However if you carry heavy loads such as towing a trailer, car load of people, etc you should increase the tire pressure accordingly but not exceed the 44 psi max.
If you have to re-route the power cable for the BassLink, there is an alternative. My installer (a top shop)secured a high quality fuseholder on the driver side next to the long box of power thingies. I'm guessing some solenoids and fuses are in there. They fed the fuse right off the Hot lead at that box. The 10 guage wire to the BassLink enters through the firewall on the driver's side. Maybe I can borrow a digital camera if you happen to need more details. I really admire your enthusiasm and self confidence with things automotive. Love those tips!
300michael May be Sipes can give suggestions, he has his car lowered and with 245/40x18 tires, vow, I'm sure it looks great from behind. Too bad he cannot post.
I had a bra on the front of my 300M, it looked great until I took it off. It really discolored the paint (red garnet pearl coat). Will the Zaino Clay bar take that away, or what should I be doing? Just what does a clay bar do anyway? The Zaino #1 didn't touch it. I know I should remove it when it rains, and when I get it washed, but seriously who does that?!?!? Help and suggestions would be great!
I did that, and we never had any problems with it ruining our Deep Slate. But, now, the car's gone and it doesn't matter. These guys should be able to help you, but don't wish for a miracle. You may need a repaint.
SDMike - I only looked at them quickly, but the one of the first things on the instructions said to disconnect at least the negative cable on the battery -- I'm not really sure why though. Did you do that?
Silver - My basslink cable does have a connector plug near the battery I could disconnect, but I also may be able to just cut some of the nylon ties they have holding it in places (most where the airfiler is) then replace them later so hopefully I can just work around it.
Nice.. And just think....you'll never have to worry about door dings! We were talking about these at the Carlsbad meet. So tell me, when you change it over and remove the back for more room...is it totally open in the back?
Snipes has smaller diameter tires then the stock size. True that alone will lower the car, but it throws off the speedometer, and odometer. Not to mention with the smaller tires, you end up with more gap in the wheel wells. All of which I do not want. I have emailed Dubs to see how he got his, or I will try to purchase them from H&R. I am thinking of a couple of sets as to raise it a half inch. With my scoop duct it is going to be a very close fit.
Comments
Good luck tomorrow picking up the new wheels.
Bottom line what I want is better, lower, more aggressive sound from the outside, not necessarily LOUD, but a sound that says PUUURRRRFORMANCE, and as little or no change to the cabin noise. There have been a lot of comments regarding low RPM resonance on the cars with duals, can that be avoided?
In CA I'm sure you guys have a ton of places where you can go and get good info from exhaust shops, you may or may not be surprised to know that the boys here in Boise,ID are no help, they can do what you tell 'em to do, but they aren't offering a lot of useful advise.
What do you guys think is the best way to get what I want?
Anybody want to buy my Zaino as I guess I won't be using it this year
Scotian- Got you clock faces yesterday. They look great. Thanks a lot.
My Zaino dealer made up an excellent comprehensive guide on how to use Zaino products that includes some of the tips on the Zaino site plus a lot more. If anybody wants it e-mail me at the address shown on my profile and I send it out. It's in Word .doc format.
http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/subpages/toucan_tips01.htm
300michael -strange they say the axles break whan lowered ,as I am pretty sure the Special uses the same ones the reg. 300 uses . All they have changed is the spings on the Special to lower it.
I hear you. You would think that they would have learned by now. When the $$$$$$ get REAL bad, then you'll see them crack down on the dealers!
fastdriver
They did do some work on my car that I did not ask for - lube door and hood hinges - now the hood is misaligned - looks like it is not fully shut. Gotta wait till at least next week for them to correct this.
My question to you guys: how can a windshield develop a crack, if there was no direct visible impact (small rock, vandalism) on the windshield? To my knowledge (backed by CarFax), the car has not been in an accident. Has anyone else experienced similar problem? May this be a defect that should be covered under warranty? Can this be a result of dealers's grease monkeys performing work on the hood (that I did not ask for)?
tks
Is it a better option to try to get it fixed in a local specialized shop? I assume if I just leave it as is, the crack will grow, right?
Again, I am very suspicious about this - there is no sign of stone chip impact or anything like that.
Thanks for your reply.
Andy
Hope everyone has a nice weekend.
Doc
-gas guage reading empty, with a full tank
-radio lights flashing
-SEATS moving forward up to the steering wheel
-Door locks clicking up and down
-'electrical' sound coming from drivers side front-near light switch or in that area
Dealer replaced BCM (body control module) first time with a 're-built/re-programmed' unit. Same problem ocurred. Replaced again with NEW module--cost (per dealer..) was $1,000 !
Do not let them BS you into getting re-programmed unit-demand NEW unit.
Lately, I've been noticing 'clicking' sound again coming from same area.....
There have been others who have had same thing happen...don't remember how far back I first posted about this, so happy scrolling......
Drpixel/the OTHER Glenn
Good luck
"
Thanks for your suggestion. I adjusting the knobs, twisting them all the way down, and it did not work. I guess I still need to make a trip to the dealer.
blonda - Don't be afraid to install the Aircharger. Follow the instructions, which women will do unlike most men, and it's very easy. The tough part for me was putting the 90 degree rubber bend back on the throttle body and making sure the K&N tube was inserted straight in the other end. It was hard because my hands are very big and that's a tight spot to work in.
glennbp - I agree with you about the sound of the duals with the stock collector and a Flowmaster. A bonus with the Flowmaster is there is no packing to burn out inside. I love the sound, especially at idle. It really ROARS at full throttle with the Aircharger.
cwbongus - In my opinion, regardless of your muffler setup, duals will make it louder in the cabin, but it's sweet, sweet MOPAR music.
sdmike2 - Try reversing the rebreather hose on your Aircharger. I saw the kink in my hose with the original end plugged in at the motor. I was about to use the cutters and modify it, when I thought I'd try swithcing it around. It fits much better that way for some reason. Mine has been on a month and still no kink.
Do any of you with the Basslink have the remote insalled under the dash? How does it work? Was it a worthwhile investment?
Whew!
MOPAR or no car!
You can see pics of the shims at
http://www.cardomain.com
and search the 300M's for AJPIII's car.
I still do not see how raising the drivetrain a 1/4" would offset and cure the 1.5" body drop of the sport springs, even worse case with the Intrax springs. Sounds like snake oil!
Question re: the basslink cable to the battery, did you guys work around it or disconnect it to install the charger?
Another question....I was going to take the car to a local tune-up shop to get the Bosch plus installed. You don't think it will freak my car out to have 2 mods done in one day do you? I'll drive it around some before I try to put in the charger as much as I can. I guess the fact that I have to disconnect the battery cable for the charger will help anyway.
Tom
(dubs)
Can I solicit your comments and recommendations?
I presently have the tires at 35 psi cold.
Silver
Silver
http://www.ritchiefamily.com/300m.htm
May be Sipes can give suggestions, he has his car lowered and with 245/40x18 tires, vow, I'm sure it looks great from behind. Too bad he cannot post.
I did that, and we never had any problems with it ruining our Deep Slate. But, now, the car's gone and it doesn't matter. These guys should be able to help you, but don't wish for a miracle. You may need a repaint.
Silver - My basslink cable does have a connector plug near the battery I could disconnect, but I also may be able to just cut some of the nylon ties they have holding it in places (most where the airfiler is) then replace them later so hopefully I can just work around it.
I'll let you know how it goes....
By the way, we're just about to go for a drive somewhere so I'll read all your posts a little later. I can't wait..