Chrysler 300M

sdmike2

Interesting that all of their colors were $43, except for the red which was $5 cheaper. Their site is a little chincy so I was a bit worried about the service, but I'm glad that you had good experience. What do you mean "have fun"? I'm going to be doing this in your driveway! I'll bring the beers.

300michael

I hope you will be drinking after the paint job! After all you don't want to get big red painted with non infereno red paint? I can see it now two drunken sailors trying to paint the rotors instead of the calipers. Hint: don't try to do it while the vehicle is moving, true it is faster but the chromies don't look good in red.

sdmike2

This isn't rotor paint? rats. I was hoping to cover up the little rust marks on the edges.

rogor2k

Happy belated Birthday.

Alas, I guess you fell thru the net too. Your belated BD card will be on the way tomorrow.

What is your actual BD (month/day) so we can update our records? Also any other members who know they didn't fill in that field on their application.

kcbatch

Has anyone out there upgraded their Infinity speakers? I have replaced my headunit and added a sub, but I'm still running the factory speakers and the factory amp. I had an installer tell me that the impedance on the speakers was an unusual load (something below 2ohms). Is this true?

sdmike2

I believe that glennbp has replaced his speakers but I'm not sure. You can either wait for a reply from him or click on his name in one of the posts above (or on a previous page) to get his email address out of his profile.

sdmike2

For those of you that like to mess with your lighting, this guy has several different colors for sale. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1818925734

I'll give you guys a warning too. There's a guy on ebay selling all kinds of 300M stuff that appears to be junk. One is an EGR cutoff valve, that some who have left feedback indicate was just a piece of aluminum (junk). He's also selling several "high flow" air filters. Sounds good, but he states they're made of a different/unusual material and don't have a brand name! I would recommend staying away from this guy's auctions.

sdmike2

...for those into lighting. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1820033073

Someone might also find this wood dash kit of interest. It's the standard wood, not the luxury group. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1819314507

Finally, here's an auction for a users manual if anyone needs it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1819445356

scotian

OEM pads: Not necessary if you cryo-treat your new rotors.

Anti-rattle clips: I think that's what these are on my aftermarket pads:

http://public.fotki.com/Scotian/300m/exterior/cross-drilled_rotors/dcp_0009.html

http://public.fotki.com/Scotian/300m/exterior/slotted_rotors/dcp_0282.html

If you want better braking, you need better pads. If you think the pads will wear out the OEM rotors, get cryo-treated OEM or other rotors, with or without slots and/or cross-drills. When you get new rotors, or resurface old ones, get new pads.

Talk to Jerry at http://www.myroadster.net.

videoman1

That dash and price seems tempting. I have a '99 300M that I bought a few months ago. How can I tell if I have the Luxury group? Does the '99 300M even have a luxury group?

Has anyone bought from them?

sdmike2

On the '01 the luxury group included a more extensive overhead console computer, a wood-topped steering wheel, tilting rear view mirrors (automatically tilt down in reverse), and real burlwood trim. I *DON'T* think it was an option on the 99, but if you don't have the above items you can be sure you don't have it. According to Edmunds the only options available on the 99 were a sunroof and chrome wheels.

I haven't bought anything from the guy, but he has pretty good feedback from buyers. E-mail him and ask if you can return it if it doesn't match or fit to your satisfaction. If he says no, pass on it.

videoman1

Thanks Mike. I definitely don't have a luxury group, then. Probably not offered on the '99.

After comparing the Ebay guy's kit to Joshua Tree's kit, the Ebay guy is missing some components. Things like power mirror trim, upper console trim, door trims, power seat trim, door handle trim, etc.

Of course, this guy is over $100 less than Joshua Tree so I guess it depends on if the missing parts make a difference.

easyrider300m

that site on ebay lists it as being for the 99-02 300M---yet it also states that it is a real veneer, not synthetic like the 99-00 were. I wonder if it will match the existing pieces in color. He also shows a pic of the long dash piece but it is not pictured in the list of pieces supplied. I just wonder how good the match to existing trim would be. The quality looks very good. If anyone buys this product, please report back to this board and tell us how it works out.

wire2

I've tried to email you, keep getting bounced.
Send me your dealer's order # for the new one.

sdmike2

I also think I read that he doesn't make them until they're ordered. That sure seems kind of strange...like the guys is making them in his garage or something. Personally, with the inconsistencies that you stated I probably wouldn't buy from the guy unless I got confirmation that I could return it, and I could use a credit card in case I had to dispute the transaction.

videoman1

Is it me or does the Ebay guy's

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1819314507

layout look exactly like the one from AlkaPlus

http://alkaplus.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cfm?action=detail&ProductID=10

Both people are from New York too. And the prices are similar. Hmmmm. May be the same company wouldn't you say?

easyrider300m

is it one and the same company---the pics are almost exactly the same--even the layout of the pieces in the pic are the same---his price is about $30 less though--if its the same company, then its may great deal IF it matches the present trim on the M---I noticed on the Alkaplus site the reviews mention that he sells on ebay so it must be the sam

has anyone here order the trim from alkaplus?

bigmike5

I've been intrigued by those little lights too, but being electrically, as well as mechanically challenged, I have not pursued getting some. Also, color would be a question because some states have laws that prohibit running either red or blue lights of any kind except on police or fire/emergency vehicles. Don't know if the fuzz would bother you or not if you were running blue ones that small on the hood.

Russ/Doc-- Any idea when the sign-up sheet for the Woodward Cruise will be up on the Club site?

videoman1

Here's where I originally saw a sample of the Alkaplus trim.

http://webpages.charter.net/dodgeboy/300mMods.htm

I'm not sure if Smitty is an Edmunds member though. I emailed the guy from Ebay to see if his edges are beveled or just flat and also asked about how well the colors match up. We'll see if he answers.

Also, does Joshua Tree send out sample peices if you request them? I remember people passing sample peices around but can't remember if they were extra parts from a kit or Joshua sent them.

glennbp

There is no problem doing this as the factory speakers are all 4 ohm and are wired individually. I changed all my speakers to the Rockford-Fosgate Fanatic "Q" components utilizing the factory speaker locations. It was quite straight forward but a little time consuming. I have also changed out everything else; Alpine CDA-7995 head unit, Rockford-Fosgate 600.4 4 channel amp, Kicker ZR600 amp pushing two Kicker subs in a sealed box. Nothing remains of the factory stereo. If you want details, email me at glennbp@myvzw.com and I'll do my best to help. The Infinity II factory setup has some strange quirks in the way it's set up, but most factory set ups do. After fooling with this for months now, I have a pretty good handle on how the whole thing works.

glennbp

is definitely not recommended. The constant flexing of the rubber will cause this stuff to crack and peel like my old lady's face. (Did I say that?) It's designed for rigid plastics and urethanes, not tires!

glennbp

You're welcome to use my driveway and my floor jack. But keep in mind that they recommend not driving for about 8 hours after painting. I can hold "Big Red" hostage!

300michael

It is thinner then the others I have seen the epoxy top coat is (much) thinner. But the color matches (except fro when the sun hits it) like all the others (the falt is with the Factory trim not the purchased wood trim.
I do have one good thing to say about them, they were the only company I found that would make me a custom replacement piece after I totally redesigned my center dash. It matches the custom auto trim wood just fine.

blonda

If anyone wants me to send them a piece of the Joshua Tree factory match for the 99-00 M let me know. I have a couple door pieces that were defective (which they replaced no problem) that I can send as a sample. Email me at blonda81@hotmail.com

Videoman - the "plood" was the only option on the 99-00's. The rosewood the kit on ebay shows looks like the same -- (can't vouch for the color though).

blonda

When I had my rotors resurfaced a couple weeks ago they put on carbon pads which they recommended. I don't think I like them. Immediately when I drove off I heard them scraping against the rotor as the wheel turned, and there was a loud hissing noise when I braked (almost sounded like air escaping- but it was the pads). I turned around and drove back and they took it out for another test drive. They told me it was normal for new pads (I have never had that happen to me before on any car)and to give it 100 miles and the rubbing would go away. It has been over 300 miles and I still hear some air-like hissing when I stop but not as loud (pads on the rotors)and yesterday when I had the window open on the passenger side I could hear a very slight, constant chirp as the passenger wheel turned. It could be my imagination, but I also sometimes feel like they don't stop as well, but sometimes they feel like they stop better, depending on the situation. Do you think I should have them change them out for OEM pads?

bigmike5

Blonda--Could it be a caliper problem? Once had the left front caliper malfunction on the wife's former 96 Aurora and they were smokin' as well as rubbin'. Dealer tried with 3 sets of calipers before they worked correctly on the third set. If it were the calipers I think the smoke would be evident. I don't think you should be hearing rubbing as you are riding.

bigmike5

Anyone got a part number for "anti-rattle clips?" As I have a brake job approaching and not at the dealer, it might be good to have some when the time comes.

andy300m

I dont have luxury group on my 01. but i do have the side mirrors that tilt in reverse. VIC is not the top of the line one, and I dont have wood on the steering wheel. Maybe the tilt mirrors were standard on 01?

muskateer3

Carbon metallic pads are very hard pads that will perform well and last a long time, but in the case of a non-PHP M, they will also transfer too much heat to the rotors and end up warping them. You will then get steering wheel vibrations when you press on the brake pedal.

If you are staying with the factory rotors, I recommend you stay with factory pads. Yes they are softer, yes they wear out more often, but they are the cheapest and easiest thing to replace, and your M will perform as when new.

If you cant go factory, the next best is ceramic. These do a good job and are much more rotor-safe. Raybestos Quiet-Stop is one such pad.

If you want a performance upgrade from factory, follow scotians' advice. More money, but if you are not happy with factory performance, this looks like the way to go.

sdmike2

I guess so! If you don't have the wood steering wheel in your '01 you don't have the luxury group.

Mike

jbautch

I have a 99 300M, and I've got a problem. A few months ago I took my 300 to Jiffy Lube for an oil change and the JL manager told me about a problem they had received word from Corp JL in regards to the Chrysler oilpan threads stripping because of the aluminum pans and the steel plugs. Last week I went to my Chrysler dealer for an oil change and whoops -- the threads were stripped clean! A $16.95 oil change visit quickly morphed into a $300.00 plus visit. I just wanted to gather some documentation/ammunition from the Web before I complained to the service manager. Has anyone seen this? wouldn't this be something Chrysler would do a recall for? This could mean trouble for all 300 owners!

sdmike2

Think I can pick a day when you're not using your floor jack and borrow it? That would keep me from having to buy one.

sdmike2

$300?? For what?? Sounds like you got the shaft on that one. The only reason there should be a problem with the plug/pan is if an idiot misthreads them and forces it on anyway. Your dealer should have just tapped it and put a bigger drain pan plug in it...about 10 minutes and a $.75 bolt. They must have a have a boat payment to make to charge that kind of money.

sdmike2

If anyone wants a sample just email me your mailing address. I can be reached at mritchi1@san.rr.com. I have a faulty center console piece that I can cut into at least 5 or 6 sample pieces.

glennbp

This isn't a problem unless some bozo doesn't know what he's doing. It's true that you can crossthread these plugs and pans if you are not paying attention, but by being a little careful when replacing the drain plug and NOT OVER TIGHTENING it will allow them to last forever (well, at least the life of the car). Chrysler is not the only mfg that uses this combination. The main problems are the doofuses (doofi?) that work on your car and have no clue that these plugs can easily crossthread. My advice: Do it yourself or be certain the guy that changes your oil has a clue!

glennbp

You can borrow my floor jack anytime you like, but only if you use it on "Big Red". It's a very special jack that works only on "M's"! I can't be responsible for what happens if you try to raise any other vehicle with it!

denverm

I think someone else on this board had this happen from an oil change place tightening the plug too tight. I would expect that could happen to an aluminum pan, and it doesn't seem to me to be a case for a recall (to do what -- change over to steel oil pans?). Whoever changes the oil has to be careful not to overtighten. Since you've had the oil changed at two different places, they will each likely deny responsibility, unfortunately.

blonda

Some guy named Mike put a 300M Club wiper card on my car in the parking lot at work.... :-)

blonda

That was me a couple months ago. (Someone else had it happen from JL about a year ago too). They told me it was stripped and would have to be possibly retapped. When I told them THEY were the only ones who had ever changed my oil they were suddenly able to get it retapped no problem. They told me next time to remind them not to overtighten. The guy who had it happen over a year ago ended up getting the Jiffy Lube district manager to meet him at the dealer and they paid for the pan replacement.

blonda

Thanks for the info on the pads. I did notice they seem much hotter after I have driven the car. The OEM pads still had 30% left after 42K so didn't wear bad at all. I may switch over. Since the rotors were already warped at 37K I assume they'll go real fast this time with the carbon pads.

andy300m

I too went to Jiffy Lube about a month ago for an oil change. The guy tried to get the plug off for about 40 min, even bought some special tools in auto parts store next door, then gave up.
It turns out that the (your favorite profanity here) 5 * service dept overtightened the oil plug. THEY were the last ones that did oil change on my car. On my next visit they replaced the bolt at no charge to me.
For those in Seattle area, STAY AWAY FROM Lynnwood Dodge! They have no clue! Let me put it this way: if my car died in front of their service dept, I would PUSH it 5 miles to another 5* shop. Wait, maybe I would push it for 10 miles to some good old shop where people know what they are doing!

andy300m

OEM pads have 30% left at 42K? I had about 40% or so on the front at 22K! I guess I brake a lot, and the person that owned the car before me 0-20K miles :-)
I will probably stick with my pads for another 5K and at that point maybe invest in cross-drilled rotors with ceramic pads. Thanks for your ideas, everyone!

sdmike2

blonda - a card, huh? You don't say.

glenn - Thanks. Don't worry, I don't jack up anything I don't have to.

videoman1

Well, it wasn't at a Jiffy Lube, but it was at a Valvoline Instant Oil Change place. After about 5 minutes of them fiddling with the hood, I had to get out and show them how to get it open.

They did do a good job after that, though.

grunschev

I had my oil changed once at Q-Lube. The next oil change was at the dealer and I was notified that the plug was overtightened on the previous oil change and the pan would need to be replaced. The Q-Lube district manager stepped up to the plate and had the pan replaced (but not at the dealer). I don't recall exactly, but they paid something like $250 for the work.

This Q-Lube manager told me they regularly have this problem and mine was about the 8th one they've replaced (mostly on Intrepids). He told me they keep telling their gorillas to watch the torque.

Igor

muskateer3

Your stories have officially scared me into changing my own oil forever!

andy300m

"This Q-Lube manager told me they regularly have this problem and mine was about the 8th one they've replaced (mostly on Intrepids). He told me they keep telling their gorillas to watch the torque."

just think about what the "gorillas" at the tire shops will do to your rotors by overtightening.
We should all just fix our cars ourselves :-)

andy300m

a few days ago i posted here about my hood misalignment that my dealer caused. They were changing the belt on my ac that was causing noise.
the body shop said that the ac condenser was not seated properly and was preventing the hood latch from locking all the way. Just another fact that speaks about the 5* dealer incompetence! I assume they had to move/take out the condenser when the new belt was put in.

blonda

I used my autostick almost always in stop and go traffic instead of riding the brakes -- that's the only explanation I can think of of why the pads lasted so long (not that I'm complaining).

blonda

I had an 88 Grand Am once that I had the hardest time getting oil changed on. The plug was inside the pan and some different tool was required to remove it. I even had a couple places just flat out say they didn't have the tools and I needed to have the dealer do it. I think at one point someone totally stripped it and I had to have it replaced by the dealer.